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Table of contents

1. The Lighthouse 101 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.804340, -35.094135

Description:© (koala)

Routes are described in order from bayside to the seaside - that is, from right to left when looking out to sea.

Access Issues: inherited from Point Perpendicular

Point Perp is located within a Navy Weapons Range. It is generally open during weekends and NSW school holidays though it is best to ring the rangers (02 4448 3411) to check first.

Ethic: inherited from Point Perpendicular

Point Perp is predominantly a trad crag. There has been more bolting recently but this is a particularly contentious topic. A lot of the bolts are the traditional Aussie carrot and it would be a good idea to have at least half a dozen keyhole hangers before going to the Point for the first time.

1.1. Superliner Area 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.803304, -35.093947

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Superliner

The first arête right of the lighthouse fence. Excellent protection. Find the 2 carrot bolts at the top and abseil down the middle of the face until you reach a small ledge about 5 metres above the half way ledge. There is a 2 carrot bolt belay at this ledge. Climb the arête past cam breaks and 7 carrot bolts. Go left around the arête at the difficult sections near the bottom and top. Clip the last bolt from around the arête. Take a long sling for the thread runner near the top.

FA: 2003

19 Mixed 35m, 7
2 Two Ounces 15 Trad 30m
3 Anchovy Express

Up groove passing carrots.

Nice wall take lots of small cams and wires.

Double carrot belay

Start: On halfway ledge as for Two Ounces

FA: G. James, P. Bridges, 1998

19 Mixed 30m, 7
4 Guiding Light

Many cams!

Up white corner grove to block, step right. Continue crack to the right end of a big roof. Step right and up to break, up then left to big orange headwall.

Start: Same as for banksia and coleridge.

FA: Ian Brown, Tom Williams, 1988

20 Trad 40m
5 Coleridge

Start: Start on same ledge.

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1988

16 Trad 40m
6 Sunset Strip

The broken twin cracks 2m left of Hollywood Boulevard. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge. Step left and up the cracks with good protection.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun

17 Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Hollywood Boulevard

There is a west facing orange wall about 10m right of Coleridge. Hollywood Boulevard is the corner crack at the left side of this wall. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge. Up the corner cracks.

FA: 2002

16 Trad 20m
8 * Battle Cruiser

A nice clean crack with excellent easy to place protection. The next corner crack right of Hollywood Boulevard. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge (as per Hollywood Boulevard). Walk around the corner (stay on the abseil rope) and set up a belay. Up the corner crack.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta

20 Trad 15m
9 ** Seahawk (Top Pitch only)

The top pitch of Seahawk from DBB. Carefully up the brittle undercut start then march up and slightly right through band after band of different rock types. This pitch is quite overhung but juggy most of the way.

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013

20 Sport 35m, 13
10 ** All Guns Blazing (Top pitch only)

Undercut start to (shock horror) short bolted corner crack. When this ends pick your way up pumpy pocketed headwall until blistering crimpy crux at smooth orange section. Finish up long section of large sandy pockets. Retire. 13 bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013

23 Sport 36m, 13
11 Destroyer

Atmospheric. The next crack left of Voyager. Rap down Voyager and set up a belay on the step about 1m below the main ledge, use the rap rope to backup the belay. Traverse left along the break and up the crack. Good protection once you are in the crack.

FA: 2003

21 Trad 15m
12 Neil's Project (closed)

Ringbolted route squeezed between Destroyer and Voyager, but starting much lower on tiny 'ledge' with ring bolts. This is a closed project - stay off.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2014

Sport 28m, 11
13 Voyager

On February 10th 1964 the navy destroyer Voyager was sunk off Jervis Bay when it collided with the aircraft carrier Melbourne. 82 men died in the incident. Left of Centurion is a section of vertical plates jutting out. After this section there is a small embayment. Left of the embayment there are a couple of cracks in the cliff top. The Right crack is Voyager and the Left crack is Destroyer. Find the 2 carrot bolts at the top and Abseil down the line to a good ledge in an embayment. Up the left corner crack.

FA: Robert Dun / James Hardy

16 Trad 15m
14 James Hardy 1000

Put up the weekend of the Bathurst car races, and named accordingly to annoy James. Abseil down and set up a belay in Voyager. Step right and head up the right corner crack. The crack is fused at the top.

FA: 2002

19 Trad 15m

1.2. Centurion Area 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 150.803659, -35.094138

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Typhoon

Left of Centurion is a section of vertical plates jutting out. After this section there is a small embayment. Typhoon is the crack in the right corner of the embayment. Abseil down the middle of the embayment until you get to a small ledge with a 2 carrot bolt belay. The belay is at the base of a seam in the slabby wall. Start up the slabby wall past 2 carrot bolts trending right. Then up the right corner crack.

FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun, 2003

18 Trad 15m
2 Rapt in Rubber

Exposed - Traverse left near arete past bolt, up past more.

Start: Same belay as 'Centurion'

FA: Greg James, Steve Burns, 2000

21 Mixed 15m, 3
3 * Centurion

Left hand edge of ledge, up corner. Don't get drawn into the overhang. Instead, stay on the left face to place pro before the crux move.

Start: Same start as RIR

FA: Ian Brown, Bob McMillan, 1989

16 Trad 10m
4 Plunging Testicles

Up wall past bolts and small cam placements on sharp holds.

Start: 'Centurian' ledge

FA: Greg James, Steve Burns, Escaba, 2000

25 Mixed 10m, 2
5 ** Impact Zone

Up the corner crack.

Same belay as WCF.

15 Trad 10m
6 ** Women and Children First

Start on the Centurian Ledge as per Impact Zone. Step right onto a horizontal crack over the awesome exposure above the rocks below. One solid move then up the easy ramp to a two carrot belay at the top.

FA: Ian Brown, Bob McMillan, 1989

15 Trad 12m
7 * Delusions of Grandeur

Overhung and very very exposed - even for Point Perp standards. This is a mixed route - only 3 bolts in the lower half - the rest is cams in horizontals - try not to pump off placing them! Rap in down the finish corner of Women and Children first - clipping into gear/bolts on the way down to stay connected to the rock to ridiculous hanging belay on lip of roof. Climb up and right through short chossy section to rooflet, over this (reachy) then straight up face and steepness above. Cams from finger to wide fist size required.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

24 Mixed 20m, 3
8 *** Titan I Am

The Point's first route bolted with titanium. Rap from carrots to reach semi-hanging belay with foot ledge (double rings). Long, pumpy and well-protected climbing with 10 bolts and one or two obvious medium cam placements, or run it out (safe).

FA: Lee Cujes, Sam Cujes, 2013

22 Mixed 25m, 10
9 Oarsome

Traverse left off ledge to hanging crack, great gear.

17 Trad 20m
10 ** Australia's Hardest Climb

Great steep climbing with some tough to read moves. Rap in to find two hard-to-see carrots placed directly into a horizontal ledge. Slabby start on polished rock (cams in horizontals) to high BR when the rock steepens. Continue up overhung face above past FH and a a couple more BRs.

21 Mixed 15m, 4
11 ** Whale order bride

Rap to same belay carrots as AHC.

Start same as AHC with gear, then rings on headwall.

FA: Will Watkins & Nick le Frenchie, 2012

20 Trad 15m
12 Wolf

Steep wall 2m left of arete with not a lot of pro.

Start: Left side of arete, exposed stance.

FA: Roy Fryer, Owen McMahon, Cerin McMillan., 2000

18 Trad 15m

1.3. Red Riding Hood Area 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.804075, -35.094188

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Little Red Riding Hood Direct

A much longer and better version of the original - starting from double bolt belay on small ledge on right side of arete, below the Levee Breaks terrace. Left and up quartz infused face (lots of FHs) to eventually join into original route at 15m at crack section (medium cams). Finish up original arete past bolt and cams.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2013

17 Mixed 30m, 7
2 *** Little Red Riding Hood

Traverse out left and up, aiming for the nose. Up this to the top. There are a few bolt hangers past the nose to get you past the fairly blank section on the arete. Double carrot belay on top.

Start: Rap into the embankment just to the right of the lowest point in the lighthouse fence.

FA: Steve Burns, Greg James, Bede Harrington, 2000

17 Mixed 25m, 1
3 Greg's Crack

The major crack line between When the Levee Breaks and Red Riding Hood. Start as for Red Riding Hood. Follow the hairline crack up the wall until the ledge. Climb the short pedestal and move right into the crack. Up the crack passing two bolts (on the right of the crack).

FA: Greg James,@akladnig

20 Mixed 20m, 2
4 Czech Mate 19 Trad 20m
5 ** When the Levee Breaks

Start just right of LRRH. Up the line with four FHs and pockets for cams or just run it out.

FA: Greg James, 2000

19 Trad 20m
6 Big Bad Wolf

Starts under the line of rings 3m left of "When the Levee Breaks". Hard crux and will be desperate if you are a little short.

FA: Will Watkins, 2012

23 Sport 20m
7 Spiders And Space Cadets

The corner between Proudly Penguin and When the Levee Breaks. Bridge up the corner and chimney with good protection. Take a sling for the big thread near the top.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Jane Montgomery

15 Trad 20m
8 ** Proudly Penguin

Start: Start 2m right of corner. Up wall to flake then bolt to top. Watch the runouts!

FA: Neil Plant, Robyn Cleland, 2000

21 R Mixed 20m, 1
9 ** Destructive Wombats

Start: Start 4m right of corner. Straight up the wall past many cam placements and a BOMBER sling at half height!

21 Mixed 20m, 2
10 Struggle Streets

Thin flake with 3 FHs right of Destructive Wombats.

21 Trad 25m
11 Trade Wind

The broken crack line left of Fat Man's Misery and R of Destructive Wombats. Rap down to the big ledge. Climb the right curving flake to a ledge. Either belay on the ledge or continue up the crack in one pitch.

FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun

18 Trad 15m
12 Fat Man's Misery

The wide crack / chimney left of the Krill a Whale buttress. Rap down to the big ledge. Climb the right curving flake to a ledge. Either belay on the ledge or continue up the crack in one pitch.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta

16 Trad 15m
13 Krill-A-Whale

Start down to the left of the arete.

18 Mixed 30m, 2
14 ** Hooray for Hippies

Best to rap off carrots for Sieze The Day access, and stop on good size ledge (enough for 3) belay off two rings, start looks intimidating but its fairly easy crux at mid height and the very top

FA: Rick, Paul, Gilles, Big G & Jonesy, 2012

18 Sport 28m
15 The Poseidon Adventure

The wide crack / chimney right of the Krill-a-Whale buttress. Rap down the line to a 2 carrot bolt belay at a small ledge halfway down the left wall. Up the line passing two carrot bolts on the wide part at the top.

FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun

15 Trad 15m
16 * Sieze The Day

Rap off carrots, clipping some bolts on way down otherwise your stranded in space. Belay off double rings at small stance..Climbs switches on at halfway mark, if you don't like mono's you won't like this

FA: Rick Phillips & Paul Devine, 2012

23 Sport 28m
17 The Brown Streak

FA: Greg James

22 Trad
18 ** Schrapnel In My Backyard

Line of ringbolts left of the Mister Bean arete. Abseil down to small ledge with 2 glue-in carrot bolts as belay. Up past 4 rings and a mid-sized cam.

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, Chris Trengove, 2007

21 Mixed 15m, 4

1.4. Liquid Insanity Area 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.804433, -35.094213

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Mister Bean

Clip first bolt of FL, then make way to arete passing another bolt. Follow arete passing 8 more bolts with one hidden around the left. Apparently grade 26 if you don't use the holds on the left of arete (but given one of the bolts is around there... .

FA: Greg James, 1992

24 Sport 30m, 10
2 ** Fuzzy Logic

Climb off the block staying out of the corner passing a few FHs and many medium cams. Is slightly run out at the top, but is easier and you can put in some big cams if you really want.

Start: Rap in to an exposed triangular block with 2 FH for belay.

FA: Greg James, 1992

23 Trad 25m
3 ** Neptune

FA: Werner Steyer / Robert Dun / Kate Wright, 2004

17 Trad 15m
4 Grandmas ta Flash

Ring bolts a couple of metres right of Neptune.

FFA: Mike

22 Sport 15m
5 * Unorthodox Liasons

Climb direct up the wall to the left of the arete past 5 ring bolts. Challenging moves low down leads to pleasant upper section.

FA: Will Watkins, Rick fatty fillips, 2012

23 Sport 15m, 5
6 ** Liquid Insanity Direct Finish

Start: As for 'Liquid Insanity' but dont traverse back right, continue up arete.

FA: Greg James,Adrian Kladnig, 1992

24 Trad 35m
7 *** Liquid Insanity

Up corner, then left passing bolts to arete, up arete with cams. Near top, traverse back right and up final bolt line.

Start: Start as for 'Liquid Daze'

FA: Greg James, Adrian Kladnig, 1992

23 Trad 35m
8 *** Liquid Daze

Up small corner (bolt) to wall, then tending right slightly past more bolts.

Named in honour of the second who had a hangover and had recently been listening to a Philip Glass song "Liquid Days"

FA: Greg James, Adrian Kladnig, 1992

23 Trad 30m
9 Fight or Flight

Line of carrot bolts to the right of Liquid Daze. Great moves on great rock. Starts off the vegitated block ledge.

FA: R.Dunn, Matt Scoles, 2006

22 Sport 15m
10 Melody Lines 19 Trad 15m
11 Test

FA: Phil Georgeff, 1998

15 Trad 15m
12 Whistle 16 Trad 15m
13 Grey

FA: Phil Georgeff, 1988

16 Trad 15m
14 ** Just Technical 22 Sport 15m
15 * We Are Amphibious

FA: Neil Monteith & Chris Trengove, 2007

22 Sport 10m

1.5. Rex Hunt's Area 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.804806, -35.094122

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Rex Hunt's Love Child

A super classic - and probably the best route around this grade on the sea cliffs. Do it!

Start: Abseil in from carrot and cams for backup. Start on the left hand side of the wall below the rings. Take some trad gear as well to supplement the bolts if you are not confident at the grade. That said, hanging around to place gear might mean you miss the tick! Falls are safe from the crux.

FA: Greg James, 1992

21 Sport 30m, 10
2 *** Northern Exposure

Start: 2m right of RHLC. Straight up the wall - small to medium cams help in the middle.

FA: Greg James, 1992

22 Trad 30m
3 *** Bad Luck Streak

Start: At the thin crack. Climb the thin crack until it ends at half height, step left to continue crack and up into the jams to top.

FA: Joe Lynch Mike Law-Smith Phil Georgeff, 1988

20 Trad 30m
4 Moving Targets 18 Trad 30m
5 ** Eviction Order

Low in the grade. Great climbing past 3 fixed brackets to a hard techy finnish on edges and monos.

26 Mixed 15m, 3
6 Sticky Date Pudding 22 Trad 15m
7 Froffwidth 19 Trad 15m
8 ** Two Minute Hate

Short punchy face. This is NOT a three star route. Maybe one star.

23 Sport 12m, 5
9 Real Men Have Man Boobs

FFA: R Sonnerdale

19 Trad 15m
10 American Bikini Jam 24 Trad 12m
11 (New route directly up arete)

Not in current guidebook but it was there last time I was. --Lee.

Unknown 12m
12 Natural Selection 19 Trad 20m

1.6. Peristalsis Area 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.805297, -35.094079

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rubble Without a Cause 18 Trad 40m
2 (Ivan's Project)

Bolted seam.

Sport Project
3 (Zac's Project)

2m R.

Sport Project
4 High Society

FA: Zac Vertress, 2006

28 Sport 25m
5 Sex, Bolts and Ice Cream 25 Trad 40m
6 Bung Eye

The bolts left of Bondage and Discipline.

FA: Zac Vertrees, 2006

26 Mixed 20m, 1
7 Bondage and Discipline

FA: Greg James,Mark Davies

22 Mixed 40m, 3
8 Peristalsis 16 Trad 40m
9 ** Mind the Gap

Great position and cool climbing.

22 Mixed 40m, 3
10 ** The Whip

Start as for 'Mind the Gap'. After placing cam in big pocket, traverse right past one ring bolt to the arete (cams in pocket and in flakes- make sure you have a #2 C3 to protect final crux). Enjoy the view then punch up the arete. Great exposure!

FA: George Broadfoot, 2013

26 Mixed 25m, 3

1.7. Lighthouse Lower 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.805079, -35.094261

1.7.1. Whalesong Buttress 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lithgow Girls 17 Trad 45m
2 * Repulse

The face left of Whalesong with squillions of carrots - that are very hard to spot from below. Start on the left side of blunt arete at the foot of the buttress. Although generally the rock is excellent on this route, there are many large detached flakes that should have been removed with a hammer by the first ascent team. Be warned - get your belayer to wear a helmet. Don't believe the print guide topo - there is NO lower-off anchor at the top of this climb - just two carrots. You will need to finish up Superliner to get off.

FA: Robert Dunn & Werner Steyer, 2004

20 Sport 30m, 12
3 Whalesong 19 Trad 50m
4 Staircase to Dracophyllum 16 Trad 53m

1.7.2. Mariner Buttress 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Ancient Mariner 18 Trad 45m
2 Albatross 18 Trad 50m
3 *** Silent Sea 20 Trad 50m
4 Upon a Painted Ocean 18 Trad 55m
5 Gaia 17 Trad 55m

1.7.3. Atmosfear Wall 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

This massive overhung wall starts immediately right of the route Storm-Blast and contains an assortment of long sustained sport and mixed routes. Pitch lengths are generally 50m+. Rock quality is generally excellent but the rock does get greasy if there is no wind. It can also suffer from seepage after heavy rain. As with anywhere on the Lower Cliffs, bring ascenders in case you can't climb out!

Approach:

Fix a 100m rope down the cliff from the top of All Guns Blazing (west of Destroyer).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Storm-blast

Juggy right facing open-book corner bordering the left side of the Atmosfear Wall. This route seeps for much of the year - with drainage coming down from the pools below the lighthouse

16 Trad 45m
2 *** Seahawk

Big, steep and on excellent rock for most of the way. The lower pitches start at sea level and feature amazing orange smooth rock. The upper easy pitch is a great single pitch in its own right with a variety of rock types (from smooth, to pocketed to slightly chossy). You can link pitch 1 & 2 together for one massive 50m pitch (as was done on the first ascent).

  1. 37m (25) Start up All Guns Blazing for four bolts then take the left line up the steep imposing wall. Crank endlessly to tiny ledge and double ring belay. You can link this with next pitch if you have the guns and draws.

  2. 12m (25) Bouldery moves up and right on delicious smooth rock to more major ledge.

  3. 35m (20) Carefully up the brittle undercut start then march up and slightly right through band after band of different rock types. This pitch is quite overhung but juggy most of the way.

FA: Matt Brooks (p 1 & 2), Neil Monteith (p3), 2013

25 Sport 84m 3, 14
3 *** All Guns Blazing

Multipitch sport route straight up the guts of the biggest and steepest section of Point Perp. Very sustained climbing on immaculate rock. The first pitch especially is an absolute stunner. It's 90m direct to sea level via free hanging abseil - a 100m rope, or two 50m tied together makes rap access easy (knot change required if using two 50m). Otherwise - fix a 50m rap rope and clip into bolts on the way down to the belay ledge at end of pitch 1. Then use a 70m rope doubled to make it to sea level. Don't attempt the lower pitches if the surf is up!

  1. 36m (23) Unrelenting pumper. Starts from sea level at left end of massive steep wall - starting off rock platform. Easy start up jugs to meet right end of rooflet at 10m. Now plow direct up the overhung wall above on mostly big jugs. They won't feel like jugs by the time you finish though! Finish with a spicy runout to small ledge on the left (bring a single bolt plate for this belay). Alternativly continue into 2nd pitch (50m pitch!) 10+ bolts in this pitch.

  2. 14m (24) A bouldery little number. Out right from the ledge and over tricky bulge (random FHs) and rightwards on great glossy rock to next ledge and bolt belay. 4 bolts.

  3. 36m (23) Undercut start to (shock horror) short bolted corner crack. When this ends pick your way up pumpy pocketed headwall until blistering crimpy crux at smooth orange section. Finish up long section of large sandy pockets. Retire. 13 bolts.

Set by Neil Monteith

FA: Neil Monteith (p1 & 3) & Matt Brooks (p2), 2013

24 Sport 86m 3
4 ** Wedding Party

Easier variant to Seahawk's second pitch. From belay ledge climb right clipping first two bolts of Seahawk, then keep traversin right and up white polished wall past two expansion bolts to ledge. Climbed on Neil's wedding day!

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono 'Bestman' Schmidt, 2013

20 Sport 15m, 4
5 *** Atmosfear

Continous steep climbing on mostly big holds. Currently the right most line of bolts on the lower wall. Easy start up jugs then the angle starts to steepen and the holds get smaller. Keep fighting through a pumpy section to jugs. Finish up superb polished rock heading slightly left to double rings on ledge below top pitch of All Guns Blazing.

FA: Neil Monteith, Matt Brooks, 2013

24 Sport 50m, 18
6 ** Mixmaster

This ones for you Damo! A long steep pitch of mixed climbing following a weakness and corner system up high. Bring a full rack (doubles of hand to fist size cams and some wires). The first 15m is all trad then once the angle steepens it's spaced ringbolts and trad to the top. Belay off FH and ringbolt with long slings.

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013

22 Mixed 55m, 8

1.7.4. Bayside Lower East 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Comeback Trail 15 Trad 50m
2 Greenpeace 20 Trad 50m
3 Return of the Whale 18 Trad 50m
4 Hooray and Up She Rises 16 Trad 80m
5 ** She Sells Sea Shells

A fun multipitch up excellent orange marbled rock. The easiest sport route on the lower cliffs, and conveniently right below the left end of Windjammer Wall. As with any route on the lower cliffs, good conditions are key to enjoyment. Keep an eye out for a breezy, low humidity day and the rock will be glorious. In other conditions it can be damp and slippery! As of June 2013 the final pitch has been partially de-bolted, so you will need to use trad gear on this pitch or finish up one of the plethora of classics on Windjammer Wall. First, get to the base of Windjammer Wall anyway you can (rapping down Man Overboard is probably the best). Walk to the far left end of the crag to where the vegetated ledge ends and a very narrow rock ledge begins (5m left of the base of the route Midnight Lightning and below the route Beside the Seaside). Edge cautiously along ledge for a few metres to find double rap rings below the route Beside the Seaside (p.66 in Climb Point Perp print guide). Rap 45m from these bolts to medium sized rock ledge about 10m above the ocean. There is a single RB to belay from. You will need two 50m ropes. You CANNOT use the anchors at the end of pitch 1 as a midway rap point as they are too diagonal and overhung to reach. The start of this route is actually shared with the start of the 2nd pitch of the old climb Hooray and Up She Rises (p.128 of the Climb Point Perp print guide.)

  1. 20m (18) From the single RB belay follow the bolts up and slightly right through a couple of bulges and lots of slopers to small ledge. Double RB belay.

  2. 25m (17) Left trending RBs to 'slot' and small bush. Climb past this annoying impasse anyway you can, then left and up to ledge left of Midnight Lightning and double RB belay.

  3. 30m (15) Finish up 'Beside the Seaside'. You will need some trad. From above the anchors climb tricky fused corner for a few metres then romp up a series of grey walls and ledges past 2 rings to top of cliff. This was/is a partial retrobolt of Beside the Seaside. Alternatively walk along the Windjammer Wall ledge and exit via Man Overboard or Grey Mist.

FFA: Rick Phillips, 2013

18 Mixed 75m 3, 10

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
15 Two Ounces Trad 30m 1.1. Superliner Area
** Impact Zone Trad 10m 1.2. Centurion Area
** Women and Children First Trad 12m 1.2. Centurion Area
Spiders And Space Cadets Trad 20m 1.3. Red Riding Hood Area
The Poseidon Adventure Trad 15m 1.3. Red Riding Hood Area
Test Trad 15m 1.4. Liquid Insanity Area
The Comeback Trail Trad 50m 1.7.4. Bayside Lower East
16 Coleridge Trad 40m 1.1. Superliner Area
Hollywood Boulevard Trad 20m 1.1. Superliner Area
Voyager Trad 15m 1.1. Superliner Area
* Centurion Trad 10m 1.2. Centurion Area
Fat Man's Misery Trad 15m 1.3. Red Riding Hood Area
Grey Trad 15m 1.4. Liquid Insanity Area
Whistle Trad 15m 1.4. Liquid Insanity Area
Peristalsis Trad 40m 1.6. Peristalsis Area
Staircase to Dracophyllum Trad 53m 1.7.1. Whalesong Buttress
Storm-blast Trad 45m 1.7.3. Atmosfear Wall
Hooray and Up She Rises Trad 80m 1.7.4. Bayside Lower East
17 Sunset Strip Trad 20m 1.1. Superliner Area
Oarsome Trad 20m 1.2. Centurion Area
*** Little Red Riding Hood Mixed 25m, 1 1.3. Red Riding Hood Area
** Little Red Riding Hood Direct Mixed 30m, 7 1.3. Red Riding Hood Area
** Neptune Trad 15m 1.4. Liquid Insanity Area
Lithgow Girls Trad 45m 1.7.1. Whalesong Buttress
Gaia Trad 55m 1.7.2. Mariner Buttress
18 Typhoon Trad 15m 1.2. Centurion Area
Wolf Trad 15m 1.2. Centurion Area
** Hooray for Hippies Sport 28m 1.3. Red Riding Hood Area
Krill-A-Whale Mixed 30m, 2 1.3. Red Riding Hood Area
Trade Wind Trad 15m 1.3. Red Riding Hood Area
Moving Targets Trad 30m 1.5. Rex Hunt's Area
Rubble Without a Cause Trad 40m 1.6. Peristalsis Area
Albatross Trad 50m 1.7.2. Mariner Buttress
*** Ancient Mariner Trad 45m 1.7.2. Mariner Buttress
Upon a Painted Ocean Trad 55m 1.7.2. Mariner Buttress
Return of the Whale Trad 50m 1.7.4. Bayside Lower East
** She Sells Sea Shells Mixed 75m 3, 10 1.7.4. Bayside Lower East
19 Anchovy Express Mixed 30m, 7 1.1. Superliner Area
James Hardy 1000 Trad 15m 1.1. Superliner Area
*** Superliner Mixed 35m, 7 1.1. Superliner Area
Czech Mate Trad 20m 1.3. Red Riding Hood Area
** When the Levee Breaks Trad 20m 1.3. Red Riding Hood Area
Melody Lines Trad 15m 1.4. Liquid Insanity Area
Froffwidth Trad 15m 1.5. Rex Hunt's Area
Natural Selection Trad 20m 1.5. Rex Hunt's Area
Real Men Have Man Boobs Trad 15m 1.5. Rex Hunt's Area
Whalesong Trad 50m 1.7.1. Whalesong Buttress
20 * Battle Cruiser Trad 15m 1.1. Superliner Area
Guiding Light Trad 40m 1.1. Superliner Area
** Seahawk (Top Pitch only) Sport 35m, 13 1.1. Superliner Area
** Whale order bride Trad 15m 1.2. Centurion Area
Greg's Crack Mixed 20m, 2 1.3. Red Riding Hood Area
*** Bad Luck Streak Trad 30m 1.5. Rex Hunt's Area
* Repulse Sport 30m, 12 1.7.1. Whalesong Buttress
*** Silent Sea Trad 50m 1.7.2. Mariner Buttress
** Wedding Party Sport 15m, 4 1.7.3. Atmosfear Wall
Greenpeace Trad 50m 1.7.4. Bayside Lower East
21 Destroyer Trad 15m 1.1. Superliner Area
** Australia's Hardest Climb Mixed 15m, 4 1.2. Centurion Area
Rapt in Rubber Mixed 15m, 3 1.2. Centurion Area
** Destructive Wombats Mixed 20m, 2 1.3. Red Riding Hood Area
** Schrapnel In My Backyard Mixed 15m, 4 1.3. Red Riding Hood Area
Struggle Streets Trad 25m 1.3. Red Riding Hood Area
*** Rex Hunt's Love Child Sport 30m, 10 1.5. Rex Hunt's Area
21 R ** Proudly Penguin Mixed 20m, 1 1.3. Red Riding Hood Area
22 *** Titan I Am Mixed 25m, 10 1.2. Centurion Area
The Brown Streak Trad 1.3. Red Riding Hood Area
Fight or Flight Sport 15m 1.4. Liquid Insanity Area
Grandmas ta Flash Sport 15m 1.4. Liquid Insanity Area
** Just Technical Sport 15m 1.4. Liquid Insanity Area
* We Are Amphibious Sport 10m 1.4. Liquid Insanity Area
*** Northern Exposure Trad 30m 1.5. Rex Hunt's Area
Sticky Date Pudding Trad 15m 1.5. Rex Hunt's Area
Bondage and Discipline Mixed 40m, 3 1.6. Peristalsis Area
** Mind the Gap Mixed 40m, 3 1.6. Peristalsis Area
** Mixmaster Mixed 55m, 8 1.7.3. Atmosfear Wall
23 ** All Guns Blazing (Top pitch only) Sport 36m, 13 1.1. Superliner Area
Big Bad Wolf Sport 20m 1.3. Red Riding Hood Area
* Sieze The Day Sport 28m 1.3. Red Riding Hood Area
** Fuzzy Logic Trad 25m 1.4. Liquid Insanity Area
*** Liquid Daze Trad 30m 1.4. Liquid Insanity Area
*** Liquid Insanity Trad 35m 1.4. Liquid Insanity Area
* Unorthodox Liasons Sport 15m, 5 1.4. Liquid Insanity Area
** Two Minute Hate Sport 12m, 5 1.5. Rex Hunt's Area
24 * Delusions of Grandeur Mixed 20m, 3 1.2. Centurion Area
** Liquid Insanity Direct Finish Trad 35m 1.4. Liquid Insanity Area
** Mister Bean Sport 30m, 10 1.4. Liquid Insanity Area
American Bikini Jam Trad 12m 1.5. Rex Hunt's Area
*** All Guns Blazing Sport 86m 3 1.7.3. Atmosfear Wall
*** Atmosfear Sport 50m, 18 1.7.3. Atmosfear Wall
25 Plunging Testicles Mixed 10m, 2 1.2. Centurion Area
Sex, Bolts and Ice Cream Trad 40m 1.6. Peristalsis Area
*** Seahawk Sport 84m 3, 14 1.7.3. Atmosfear Wall
26 ** Eviction Order Mixed 15m, 3 1.5. Rex Hunt's Area
Bung Eye Mixed 20m, 1 1.6. Peristalsis Area
** The Whip Mixed 25m, 3 1.6. Peristalsis Area
28 High Society Sport 25m 1.6. Peristalsis Area
? Neil's Project (closed) Sport 28m, 11 1.1. Superliner Area
(New route directly up arete) Unknown 12m 1.5. Rex Hunt's Area
(Ivan's Project) Sport Project 1.6. Peristalsis Area
(Zac's Project) Sport Project 1.6. Peristalsis Area