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Table of contents

1. The Lighthouse 81 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.804175, -35.094178

Description:© (koala)

Routes are described in order from bayside to the seaside - that is, from right to left when looking out to sea.

Access Issues: inherited from Point Perpendicular

Point Perp is located within a Navy Weapons Range. It is generally open during weekends and NSW school holidays though it is best to ring the rangers (02 4448 3411) to check first.

Ethic: inherited from Point Perpendicular

Point Perp is predominantly a trad crag. There has been more bolting recently but this is a particularly contentious topic. A lot of the bolts are the traditional Aussie carrot and it would be a good idea to have at least half a dozen keyhole hangers before going to the Point for the first time.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Under The Fence

Ascends the short face half a metre right of the western fence. Abseil down either side of the fence to a sloping ledge, use the abseil rope as a belay. The line goes up the flake passing a bolt at the top.

FA: Werner Steyer / Robert Dun, 2003

19Trad 5m
2 *** Superliner

The first arête right of the lighthouse fence. Excellent protection. Find the 2 carrot bolts at the top and abseil down the middle of the face until you reach a small ledge about 5 metres above the half way ledge. There is a 2 carrot bolt belay at this ledge. Climb the arête past cam breaks and 7 carrot bolts. Go left around the arête at the difficult sections near the bottom and top. Clip the last bolt from around the arête. Take a long sling for the thread runner near the top.

FA: 2003

19Trad 35m
3 Two Ounces 15Trad 30m
4 Anchovy Express

Up groove passing carrots.

Nice wall take lots of small cams and wires.

Double carrot belay

Start: Start on Halfway ledge as for 'Coleridge'

FA: G. James, P. Bridges, 1998

19Mixed 30m, 7
5 Guiding Light

Many cams!

Up white corner grove to block, step right. Continue crack to the right end of a big roof. Step right and up to break, up then left to big orange headwall.

Start: Same as for banksia and coleridge.

FA: Ian Brown, Tom Williams, 1988

20Trad 40m
6 Coleridge

Start: Start on same ledge.

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1988

16Trad 40m
7 Sunset Strip

The broken twin cracks 2m left of Hollywood Boulevard. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge. Step left and up the cracks with good protection.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun

17Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Hollywood Boulevard

There is a west facing orange wall about 10m right of Coleridge. Hollywood Boulevard is the corner crack at the left side of this wall. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge. Up the corner cracks.

FA: 2002

16Trad 20m
9 * Battle Cruiser

A nice clean crack with excellent easy to place protection. The next corner crack right of Hollywood Boulevard. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge (as per Hollywood Boulevard). Walk around the corner (stay on the abseil rope) and set up a belay. Up the corner crack.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta

20Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 ** Seahawk (Top Pitch only)

The top pitch of Seahawk from DBB. Carefully up the brittle undercut start then march up and slightly right through band after band of different rock types. This pitch is quite overhung but juggy most of the way.

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013

20Sport 35m, 13
11 ** All Guns Blazing (Top pitch only)

Undercut start to (shock horror) short bolted corner crack. When this ends pick your way up pumpy pocketed headwall until blistering crimpy crux at smooth orange section. Finish up long section of large sandy pockets. Retire. 13 bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013

23Sport 36m, 13
12 Destroyer

Atmospheric. The next crack left of Voyager. Rap down Voyager and set up a belay on the step about 1m below the main ledge, use the rap rope to backup the belay. Traverse left along the break and up the crack. Good protection once you are in the crack.

FA: 2003

21Trad 15m
13 Voyager

On February 10th 1964 the navy destroyer Voyager was sunk off Jervis Bay when it collided with the aircraft carrier Melbourne. 82 men died in the incident. Left of Centurion is a section of vertical plates jutting out. After this section there is a small embayment. Left of the embayment there are a couple of cracks in the cliff top. The Right crack is Voyager and the Left crack is Destroyer. Find the 2 carrot bolts at the top and Abseil down the line to a good ledge in an embayment. Up the left corner crack.

FA: Robert Dun / James Hardy

16Trad 15m
14 James Hardy 1000

Put up the weekend of the Bathurst car races, and named accordingly to annoy James. Abseil down and set up a belay in Voyager. Step right and head up the right corner crack. The crack is fused at the top. Put up the weekend of the Bathurst car races, and named accordingly to annoy James. Abseil down and set up a belay in Voyager. Step right and head up the right corner crack. The crack is fused at the top.

FA: 2002

19Trad 15m
15 Typhoon

Left of Centurion is a section of vertical plates jutting out. After this section there is a small embayment. Typhoon is the crack in the right corner of the embayment. Abseil down the middle of the embayment until you get to a small ledge with a 2 carrot bolt belay. The belay is at the base of a seam in the slabby wall. Start up the slabby wall past 2 carrot bolts trending right. Then up the right corner crack.

FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun, 2003

18Trad 15m
16 Rapt in Rubber

Exposed - Travers left near arete past bolt, up past more.

Start: Same belay as 'Centurian'

FA: Greg James, Steve Burns, 2000

21Mixed 15m, 3
17 * Centurian

Left hand edge of ledge, up corner.

Start: Same start as RIR

FA: Ian Brown, Bob McMillan, 1989

16Trad 10m
18 Plunging Testicles

Up wall past bolts and small cam placements on sharp holds.

Start: 'Centurian' ledge

FA: Greg James, Steve Burns, Escaba, 2000

25Mixed 10m, 2
19 * Impact Zone

Up the corner crack.

Same belay as WCF.

15Trad 10m
20 ** Women and Children First

FA: Ian Brown, Bob McMillan, 1989

15Trad 12m
21 * Delusions of Grandeur

Overhung and very very exposed - even for Point Perp standards. This is a mixed route - only 3 bolts in the lower half - the rest is cams in horizontals - try not to pump off placing them! Rap in down the finish corner of Women and Children first - clipping into gear/bolts on the way down to stay connected to the rock to ridiculous hanging belay on lip of roof. Climb up and right through short chossy section to rooflet, over this (reachy) then straight up face and steepness above. Cams from finger to wide fist size required.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

24Mixed 20m, 3
22 *** Titan I Am

The Point's first route bolted with titanium. Rap from carrots to reach semi-hanging belay with foot ledge (double rings). Long, pumpy and well-protected climbing with 10 bolts and one or two obvious medium cam placements, or run it out (safe).

FA: Lee Cujes, Sam Cujes, 2013

22Mixed 25m, 10
23 Oarsome 17Trad 20m
24 ** Australia's Hardest Climb

Great steep climbing with some tough to read moves. Rap in to find two hard-to-see carrots placed directly into a horizontal ledge. Slabby start on polished rock (cams in horizontals) to high BR when the rock steepens. Continue up overhung face above past FH and a a couple more BRs.

21Mixed 15m, 4
25 ** Whale order bride

Rap off carrots located in middle of embankment, to two carrots located at good stance 15 mtrs down. Climbing line of bolts to the right hand line of rings

FA: Will Watkins & Nick le Frenchie, 2012

22Sport 15m
26 Wolf

Steep wall 2m left of arete with not a lot of pro.

Start: Left side of arete, exposed stance.

FA: Roy Fryer, Owen McMahon, Cerin McMillan., 2000

18Trad 15m
27 ** Little Red Riding Hood Direct

A much longer and better version of the original - starting from double bolt belay on small ledge on right side of arete, below the Levee Breaks terrace. Left and up quartz infused face (lots of FHs) to eventually join into original route at 15m at crack section (medium cams). Finish up original arete past bolt and cams.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2013

17Mixed 30m, 7
28 *** Little Red Riding Hood

Traverse out left and up, aiming for the nose. Up this to the top. There is one carrot at the fairly blank section on the arete. Double carrot belay on top.

Start: Rap into the embankment just to the right of the lowest point in the lighthouse fence.

FA: Steve Burns, Greg James, Bede Harrington, 2000

17Mixed 25m, 1
29 Greg's Crack

The major crack line between When the Levee Breaks and Red Riding Hood. Start as for Red Riding Hood. Follow the hairline crack up the wall until the ledge. Climb the short pedestal and move right into the crack. Up the crack passing two bolts (on the right of the crack).

FA: Greg James

20Trad 20m
30 Czech Mate 19Trad 20m
31 ** When the Levee Breaks

Start just right of LRRH. Up the line with four brackets and pockets for cams.

FA: Greg James, 2000

19Trad 20m
32 ** Big Bad Wolf

Starts under the line of rings 3m left of "When the Levee Breaks". Hard crux and will be desperate if you are a little short.

FA: Will Watkins, 2012

23Sport 20m
33 Spiders And Space Cadets

The corner between Proudly Penguin and When the Levee Breaks. Bridge up the corner and chimney with good protection. Take a sling for the big thread near the top.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Jane Montgomery

15Trad 20m
34 ** Proudly Penguin

Start: Start 2m right of corner. Up wall to flake then bolt to top. Watch the runouts!

FA: Neil Plant, Robyn Cleland, 2000

21 RMixed 20m, 1
35 ** Destructive Wombats

Start: Start 4m right of corner. Straight up the wall past many cam placements and a BOMBER sling at half height!

21Mixed 20m, 2
36 Struggle Streets

Thin flake with 3 FHs right of Destructive Wombats.

21Trad 25m
37 Trade Wind

The broken crack line left of Fat Man's Misery and R of Destructive Wombats. Rap down to the big ledge. Climb the right curving flake to a ledge. Either belay on the ledge or continue up the crack in one pitch.

FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun

18Trad 15m
38 Fat Man's Misery

The wide crack / chimney left of the Krill a Whale buttress. Rap down to the big ledge. Climb the right curving flake to a ledge. Either belay on the ledge or continue up the crack in one pitch.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta

16Trad 15m
39 Krill-A-Whale

Start down to the left of the arete.

18Mixed 30m, 2
40 ** Hooray for Hippies

Best to rap off carrots for Sieze The Day access, and stop on good size ledge (enough for 3) belay off two rings, start looks intimidating but its fairly easy crux at mid height and the very top

FA: Rick, Paul, Gilles, Big G & Jonesy, 2012

18Sport 28m
41 The Poseidon Adventure

The wide crack / chimney right of the Krill-a-Whale buttress. Rap down the line to a 2 carrot bolt belay at a small ledge halfway down the left wall. Up the line passing two carrot bolts on the wide part at the top.

FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun

15Trad 15m
42 The Brown Streak

FA: Greg James

22Trad
43 * Sieze The Day

Rap off carrots, clipping some bolts on way down otherwise your stranded in space. Belay off double rings at small stance..Climbs switches on at halfway mark, if you don't like mono's you won't like this

FA: Rick Phillips & Paul Devine, 2012

23Sport Project 28m
44 Schrapnel In My Backyard

Line of ringbolts left of the Mister Bean arete. Abseil down to small ledge with 2 glue-in carrot bolts as belay. Up past 4 rings and a mid-sized cam.

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, Chris Trengove, 2007

21Mixed 15m, 4
45 ** Mister Bean

Clip first bolt of FL, then make way to arete passing another bolt. Follow arete passing 8 more bolts with one hidden around the left. Apparently grade 26 if you don't use the holds on the left of arete (but given one of the bolts is around there... :).

FA: Greg James, 2000

24Sport 30m, 10
46 *** Fuzzy Logic

Climb off the block staying out of the corner passing a few FHs and many medium cams. Is slightly run out at the top, but is easier and you can put in some big cams if you really want.

Start: Rap in to an exposed triangular block with 2 FH for belay.

FA: Greg JAmes, 2000

23Trad 25m
47 ** Neptune

FA: Werner Steyer / Robert Dun / Kate Wright, 2004

17Trad 15m
48 Grandmas ta Flash

Ring bolts a couple of metres right of Neptune.

FFA: Mike

22Sport 15m
49 * Unorthodox Liasons

Climb direct up the wall to the left of the arete past 5 ring bolts. Challenging moves low down leads to pleasant upper section.

FA: Will Watkins, Rick fatty fillips, 2012

23Sport 15m, 5
50 ** Liquid Insanity Direct Finish

Start: As for 'Liquid Insanity' but dont traverse back right, continue up arete.

FA: Greg James, Adrian Kladnig, 2000

24Trad 35m
51 *** Liquid Insanity

Up corner, then left passing bolts to arete, up arete with cams. Near top, traverse back right and up final bolt line.

Start: Start as for 'Liquid Daze'

FA: Greg James, Adrian Kladnig, 1992

23Trad 35m
52 *** Liquid Daze

Up small corner (bolt) to wall, then tending right slightly past more bolts.

Named in honour of the second who had a hangover and had recently been listening to a Philip Glass song "Liquid Days"

FA: Greg James, Adrian Kladnig, 1992

23Trad 30m
53 Fight or Flight

Line of carrot bolts to the right of Liquid Daze. Great moves on great rock. Starts off the vegitated block ledge.

FA: R.Dunn, Matt Scoles, 2006

22Sport 15m
54 Melody Lines 19Trad 15m
55 Test

FA: Phil Georgeff, 1998

15Trad 15m
56 Whistle 16Trad 15m
57 Grey

FA: Phil Georgeff, 1988

16Trad 15m
58 ** Just Technical 22Sport 15m
59 * We Are Amphibious

FA: Neil Monteith & Chris Trengove, 2007

22Sport 10m
60 *** Rex Hunt's Love Child

A super classic - and probably the best route around this grade on the sea cliffs. Do it!

Start: Abseil in from carrot and cams for backup. Start on the left hand side of the wall below the rings. Take some trad gear as well to supplement the bolts.

FA: Greg James, 2000

21Trad 30m
61 *** Northern Exposure

Start: 2m right of RHLC. Straight up the wall - small to medium cams help in the middle.

FA: Greg James, 2000

22Trad 30m
62 *** Bad Luck Streak

Start: Start at the thin crack. Climb the thin crack until it ends at half height, step left to continue crack and up into the jams to top.

FA: Joe Lynch Mike Law-Smith Phil Georgeff, 1988

20Trad 30m
63 Moving Targets 18Trad 30m
64 ** Eviction Order

Low in the grade. Great climbing past 3 fixed brackets to a hard techy finnish on edges and monos.

26Mixed 15m, 3
65 Sticky Date Pudding 22Trad 15m
66 Froffwidth 19Trad 15m
67 *** Two Minute Hate 23Sport 12m
68 Real Men Have Man Boobs

FFA: R Sonnerdale

19Trad 15m
69 American Bikini Jam 24Trad 12m
70 (New route directly up arete)

Not in current guidebook but it was there last time I was. --Lee.

Unknown 12m
71 Natural Selection 19Trad 20m
72 Rubble Without a Cause 18Trad 40m
73 (Ivan's Project)

Bolted seam.

Sport Project
74 (Zac's Project)

2m R.

Sport Project
75 High Society

FA: Zac Vertress

28Sport 25m
76 Sex, Bolts and Ice Cream 25Trad 40m
77 Bung Eye

Bolts, but marked with trad symbol in the guide. Is there any gear on this? Was once on the cover of ROCK so it can't be that bad?

26Sport 20m
78 Bondage and Discipline 22Trad 40m
79 Peristalsis 16Trad 40m
80 ** The Whip

Start as for mind the gap. After placing cam in big pocket, traverse right past one ring bolt to the arete (cams in pocket and in flakes- make sure you have a #2 C3 to protect final crux). Enjoy the view then punch up the arete. Great exposure!

FA: George Broadfoot, 2013

26Mixed 25m, 3
81 ** Mind the Gap

Great position and cool climbing.

22Mixed 40m, 3

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
15 * Impact Zone Trad 10m
Spiders And Space Cadets Trad 20m
Test Trad 15m
The Poseidon Adventure Trad 15m
Two Ounces Trad 30m
** Women and Children First Trad 12m
16 * Centurian Trad 10m
Coleridge Trad 40m
Fat Man's Misery Trad 15m
Grey Trad 15m
Hollywood Boulevard Trad 20m
Peristalsis Trad 40m
Voyager Trad 15m
Whistle Trad 15m
17 *** Little Red Riding Hood Mixed 25m, 1
** Little Red Riding Hood Direct Mixed 30m, 7
** Neptune Trad 15m
Oarsome Trad 20m
Sunset Strip Trad 20m
18 ** Hooray for Hippies Sport 28m
Krill-A-Whale Mixed 30m, 2
Moving Targets Trad 30m
Rubble Without a Cause Trad 40m
Trade Wind Trad 15m
Typhoon Trad 15m
Wolf Trad 15m
19 Anchovy Express Mixed 30m, 7
Czech Mate Trad 20m
Froffwidth Trad 15m
James Hardy 1000 Trad 15m
Melody Lines Trad 15m
Natural Selection Trad 20m
Real Men Have Man Boobs Trad 15m
*** Superliner Trad 35m
Under The Fence Trad 5m
** When the Levee Breaks Trad 20m
20 *** Bad Luck Streak Trad 30m
* Battle Cruiser Trad 15m
Greg's Crack Trad 20m
Guiding Light Trad 40m
** Seahawk (Top Pitch only) Sport 35m, 13
21 ** Australia's Hardest Climb Mixed 15m, 4
Destroyer Trad 15m
** Destructive Wombats Mixed 20m, 2
** Proudly Penguin Mixed 20m, 1
Rapt in Rubber Mixed 15m, 3
*** Rex Hunt's Love Child Trad 30m
Schrapnel In My Backyard Mixed 15m, 4
Struggle Streets Trad 25m
22 Bondage and Discipline Trad 40m
Fight or Flight Sport 15m
Grandmas ta Flash Sport 15m
** Just Technical Sport 15m
** Mind the Gap Mixed 40m, 3
*** Northern Exposure Trad 30m
Sticky Date Pudding Trad 15m
The Brown Streak Trad
*** Titan I Am Mixed 25m, 10
* We Are Amphibious Sport 10m
** Whale order bride Sport 15m
23 ** All Guns Blazing (Top pitch only) Sport 36m, 13
** Big Bad Wolf Sport 20m
*** Fuzzy Logic Trad 25m
*** Liquid Daze Trad 30m
*** Liquid Insanity Trad 35m
* Sieze The Day Sport Project 28m
*** Two Minute Hate Sport 12m
* Unorthodox Liasons Sport 15m, 5
24 American Bikini Jam Trad 12m
* Delusions of Grandeur Mixed 20m, 3
** Liquid Insanity Direct Finish Trad 35m
** Mister Bean Sport 30m, 10
25 Plunging Testicles Mixed 10m, 2
Sex, Bolts and Ice Cream Trad 40m
26 Bung Eye Sport 20m
** Eviction Order Mixed 15m, 3
** The Whip Mixed 25m, 3
28 High Society Sport 25m
? (Ivan's Project) Sport Project
(New route directly up arete) Unknown 12m
(Zac's Project) Sport Project