Routes as trad in Seaside

Awesome arete. Short, steep and sustained unlike many a Point Perp route. Rap off rings at top of arete 15m SW of Midnight Lightning to small foot ledge. Use first ring and gear as belay. Take lots of 0.75 and 1 cams.

Unpleasant. Start at extreme L end of Ocean Boulevard. Belay off some blocks at the bottom of the obvious buttress. L around the nose, then up, then L to longish ledge. Up middle of wall past flakes. Up corner, then huge flake on L wall. Finish up the crack on the L to avoid the top part of the flake (loose).

First a trad route, never done. Then retrobolted and renamed. All but 2 bolts have been chopped by persons unknown in March 2013. Full trad rack now required! Starts at double ringbolt belay at the furthest you can safely walk left when on the Windjammer ledge.

Great wall route, all gear bar one U-bolt. Start up the obvious flake in the lower wall a few metres left of Hot To Trot's line of rings. Comes complete with excellent arete crack finish. Careful of some hollow blocks on the start and finish. 3 carrots on top.

The corner. Interesting terrain, fairly sustained with good rock. Take lots of gear from hands upwards, hexes useful. Belay off close wide crack (Camalots #3-5, if you’ve got any left!), or mid-sized cams 6-8m back, or carrots 20m back.

The left arete of Windjammer Wall. Incredible climbing up one the best aretes at Point Perp. Climb the arête and the face just to the right past lots of carrot bolts, supplemented by occasional medium sized cams. This was originally climbed onsight with no bolts (!) and was later "accidentally" retrobolted. 2 carrots on top.

Start just right of Turning of the Tide. Up past short corner and numerous breaks (natural gear) to headwall with three carrot bolts and a fixed hanger. Seriously tricky up high. #3 and #4 cams are handy right at the start. Belay off mid-sized cams 6-8m back.

1. Start at base of TOTT and climb up 10m to a semi hanging belay, poor pro. 2) Traverse 30 m right to a RHF corner. 3) Traverse 30 m right and belay from J ledge/corner. 4) Reposition belay to arete 5m right. 5) Traverse trickely 25 m right, belay at MO. 6) traverse 10 m to arete. 7) Traverse 15m to the SAD V-groove. 8) 10 m finish up any route on the face (easiest goes at 18).

Daunting and inspiring trad masterpiece. The left-most thin weakness through the upper headwall. Start 2m L of Icebird. Easily up left facing flake, then juggy wall to final searing seam. Full trad rack from #5 cam to tiny wires. There is an easy section down low with mediocre rock, but adequate protection if you brought the #4-5 cams. Without them your options are either to run it out with a groundfall on the cards, or start up Icebird for 10m then step left.

3 major splitter cracks are the dominant features on the left side of the wall. Icebird is the left one. A great line and a great climb. Up the jugs, then a wide bit, to lovely hands.

The face between Icebird & Dirty Dancing. Tricky start needs small cams and alert belay, or start up an adjacent route for 5m. Then mostly moderate climbing about grade 21 till big break 6m from top. Put in lots of bomber gear and punch to top!

The middle one of the 3 major crack lines. Gets thinner and harder as you get higher and pumpder. This was John's pick of the area.

The line of carrots left of Windjammer that leads to 2 bolt lower off. Take many cams and a handful of brackets (it's mostly trad). The direct finish is 26 and is called Halfway House Extension (for some reason). The lower-off will twist the s#it out of your rope - would be nice to see it upgraded.

Variant finish to Windjammer. Start up Windjammer, then avoid the wide crack by stepping left into the white marble seam. Very challenging trad climb both the climbing and protection.

The right one of the 3 major crack lines. Ensure you place lots of good gear in the first half as some of the rock is a bit suspect.

Follows the thin, right-sloping crack on the headwall R of Windjammer. Up suspect rock to the base of the crack. Follow the bolts below the slanting crack to the top. This route has been heavily retrobolted by Blowing in the Wind (see the notes for the extension to that route).

The R-leaning shallow flake in the headwall that is L of the main overlap (Liquid Lunch). Start just to the R of the centre of Windjammer Wall beneath the flake. Climb the easy lower part of the wall (bolt) to the flake, move L near the top to finish.

The R-ward leaning major diagonal flake on the R side of Windjammer Wall. Start a couple of metres R of Feeding Frenzy, about 10m below a small rooflet. Up, tending R to a U-bolt at beginning of flake, then follow the flake and crack diagonally R to the top.

The second line of rings left of Jaws' major corner. Five rings and several finger/hand sized cams to lower off anchors below the top of the cliff where the line joins Liquid Lunch. Connecting it into the top is a possibility at around grade 26 and has been attempted by Neil & others.

Sustained and well protected wall climbing with characteristic Point Perp buckets and horizontals. Starts 2m left of SS Minnow below thin crack. Face to start, then up juggy crack to unlikely wall and right leading flake. When the holds run out at 20m traverse right to join SS Minnow at its last BR and finish as for that route. Bring a full rack with doubles in the finger/hand sizes plus a #4 camalot to protect the first 5m.

Starts 5m left of the Jaws corner below the line of FHs. Up wall past three FHs then trad goodness until final climactic flake (BR). Single set of cams protects the rest. Finishes at left set of lower-offs about 4m short of the top of the wall. The single BR above is an open project.

(A linkup has been done: Hate Minnows, 22: Hate Mail to last bolt, but instead head left to SS Minnow anchors, clipping bolt (bolt plate)).

Varied and sustained wall climbing up beautiful polished rock with the typical cruxy Windjammer finish. Starts 1m left of Tenere behind small tree and 2m right of SS Minnow. Five U-bolts and four or five good cam slots (fingers to hand size). Save a #2 Camalot for pocket in the finish moves. Lower-off anchor is 3m below the top of the cliff at large finish pocket.

A true line. Start in the corner as for Jaws. At the ledge climb the fiddly seam on the main (L) wall. Continue up the stunning crack to top. Full rack to #3 cam. Sling small tree and boulder for belay.

The obvious corner in the middle of the wall.

Climb the face between Jaws and Some Weird Sin. Balancy and exposed move low with tricky top section.

Up slab right of corner, minimal gear. You can stay on slab until about 5m below top then step left to finish up Jaws.

Start on the right-hand side of the middle arete of Windjammer Wall - 5m right of Jaws. Up the wall and then arete passing bolts and cams. Move around to the R-side of the arete after clipping final bolt. Take lots of brackets. Double ring belay.

Traverse at half height from the arete of Some Weird Sin to the corner of Man Overboard. Start up the initial small corner of Hungry Eyes, or continue on from Blazing Jugs.

Start on top of the block, at the small L-facing corner just right of Some Weird Sin. Up enjoyable jugs, passing a couple of small overlaps to base of crack. Up thin crack then into hand crack to finish. Double ring belay.

The overlap right of Hungry Eyes. Awesome moves on great rock. Sustained through the top.

Ascends the discontinuous thin cracks up the centre of this piece of wall to finish either up the thin crack (better pro, but harder) or the flake to its L. Another trad masterpiece.

This is awesome. Start below the fine crack with a bolt, 4m left of corner. Up the wall past breaks and three bolts. At third bolt head right up the double edged flake. Don't place gear behind the suss flakes if you enjoy life and are looking forward to more of it!

Start in the corner, just right of the typical abseil line. Better than it looks with varied climbing and good jamming at the top on clean rock.

Traverse at half height from the Man Overboard corner to the arete, about half way up Full Sail.

Most will agree, this climb is the best easy/moderate trad route at the Point and for miles around. Gear placement is amply available and the climbing consistent at the grade. Start in the middle of the dark south-facing wall to the right of the Man Overboard corner. Follow the sinuous crack as it slowly widens to hand size.

Excellent climbing, better than it looks. Start at the crack just L of the arete, 3m R of Grey Mist.

1. 23m (19) Follow the crack until it stops then up L side of arete until able to move R to scoop on nose. Up scoop to good ledge on R.

2. 17m (17) R along ledge and up the zig zag crack with interest.

The direct finish to Full Sail. Start as for Full Sail then take the ringbolted arete to the top.

Start at a block below the middle of the wall on the right of the arete.

1. 25m (20) Up to the ledge at 4m, then left to the loose vibrating pedestal. Step right to the thin seam/crack then up to the belay ledge as for Full Sail.

2. 17m (17) As for Full Sail.

Traverse right from the belay of Night Shift (i.e. halfway up Full Sail) to Search and Destroy. Up this to finish.

Start in the middle of the wall just right of Saving Grace.Up past ring bolts then bypass the dodgy block on the left to gain the Full Sail ledge. Finish as for Full Sail.

The left facing corner at the right hand end of the wall.

1. 20m Up the corner then groove to a nice ledge.

2. 10m Originally up the wide corner at the back of the ledge but now most people prefer to climb the cracks just right of the corner.

Sandy and poorly protected.

The fine, red diagonal crack with black streaks near the middle of the wall.

Line of 3 bolts thru scoops and pockets to a powerful Nowra like crux. Great rock and wicked moves. Small cam in the top slot protects the last moves.

Start below the dark flaring crack just right of Slutcats. Pass 3 carrot bolts to some cam placements and then one more carrot.

Now has stainless steel carrot bolts to replace the old mank. Fun moves of pretty good rock. Cut slightly right to the last carrot and then up.

Start at the thin crack (small wires) and then head directly up some great rock and moves past 3 more stainless carrots. Tricky first moves leads to sustained climbing on good holds. Holds thin out towards the top so keep moving.

Line of 3 U-bolts up slightly sandy rock. Thread runner can be used between bolts 1 and 2.

The parallel cracks at the R end of the Poop Deck. Begin in the one on the R. Strenuously, then carefully until hard, sustained jamming is reached. Pike L into the next sandy horror, then more easily to top.

Bad rock.

Belay in the corner with a few medium cams. Up the wall to a big move, reachy. About 23 to the crux, then it gets hard for the last few moves. Take a bolt bracket.

Bad rock.

Bad rock.

Bad rock.

Bad rock.

Crumbly in upper half

Really sandy rock

The first 2/3 of this is well protected finger crack on good rock. The rest is poorly protected and poor rock.

Bad rock and poorly protected start (crux).

Pitch 1. Start on the left hand side of the large block 20m R of Dreams and Visions. Climb straight up through the 'dinner plates' to hanging belay at obvious horizontal 2m below RB. The rock on this pitch is surprisingly solid and the gear is sufficient. Doubles in camalots 3 & 4 are useful. Pitch 2 (crux). Climb straight up past bolt and medium cams (.75 camalot on R after bolt) to gain the arete just below where rock quality starts to deteriorate. Roll over arete to join Dreams and Visions to finish.