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Description

The upper tier.

© (koala)

Access issues inherited from Point Perpendicular

Point Perp is located within a Navy Weapons Range. It is generally open during weekends and NSW school holidays though it is best to ring the rangers (02 4448 3411) to check first.

Ethic inherited from Point Perpendicular

Point Perp is predominantly a trad crag. There has been more bolting recently but this is a particularly contentious topic. A lot of the bolts are the traditional Aussie carrot and it would be a good idea to have at least half a dozen keyhole hangers before going to the Point for the first time.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 Dundee Trad 12m
2
19 Naughty but Nice Trad 10m
3
18 Grunties Trad 8m
4
5
9 Derek the Octopus Trad 10m
6
14 Lunging Limpet Trad 8m
7
14 Nosepickings Trad 6m
8
16 Gopher Writ Trad 5m
9
8 Dogfish Trad 6m
10
6 Penguin Trad 5m
11
4 Lizard Ramp Trad 5m
12
12 Sneaker Trad 5m
13
16 For a Giggle Trad 6m
14
6 Just for Fun Trad 5m
15
14 Golden Summers Trad 6m
16
17
15 Fandango Trad 6m
18
16 Burning Deck Trad 9m
19
20 Megadeath Trad 20m
20
21 ** Over the Rainbow Trad 9m

Classic grit style climbing, no gear above the horizontal at one third height. Just as well there is a big clean fallout zone.

21
12 ** Room with a View Trad 9m

FA: Glen Jones, Bob McMillan, 1988

22
15 Bedroom Wall Trad 9m
23
18 Misconceptions Trad 18m
24
9 Exit Trad 8m
25
26
27
18 Rainbird Trad 16m
28
29
11 Scurvy Trad 20m
30
6 Sweat Shirt Trad 10m

Follows the flaking ramp left of Boardshorts

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun

31
11 Boardshorts Trad 10m
32
10 Polo Shirt Trad 10m

The corner between Thongs and Boardshorts

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun

33
10 ** Thongs Trad 10m
34
7 Teeshirt Trad 10m

The obvious large diagonal crack on the western side of 'Teeshirt' 'Gully'

Start: Abseil in to the large ledge at the base of the crack

FA: Bob McMillan, Glenn Jones, 2000

35
12 Flanny Trad 10m

The wide corner crack on the right side of Teeshirt

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta

36
8 Hawaiian Shirt Trad 10m

Bridges up between the big blocks on the west side of T Shirt Gully. Start up the south side of the blocks and step left when it becomes too wide to bridge.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun

37
25 ** Superstylin Sport 12m

underneath the big cave before you hit T shirt Gully. Not obvious at first.

38
10 * Flotsam Trad 6m

Clean hand crack on the east side of T Shirt 'Gully' - on the orange wall right of the huge jutting roof. Abseil to small ledge to avoid the sand at its base.

FA: Bob McMillan, Ian Brown, 2000

39
18 Amusement Value Trad 10m
40
15 Lazy Lobsters Sport 10m

The arête next to Amusement Value. Start up amusement value until small ledge. Step right and continue up the arête passing 4 bolts. Belay bolt at top. The start has some poor rock.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun

41
18 Playful Penguins Sport 10m

The steep wall between Wobbegong Wobbles and the arête. Up past 3 bolts. There is a belay bolt at the top.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun

42
16 Wobbegong Wobbles Trad 10m
43
17 Hammerhead Trad 10m
44
17 Jaws II Trad 10m
45
24 ** Batten The Hatches Sport 10m

1 FH and 3 rings up overhanging wall L of Cut And Thrust

46
18 Cut and Thrust Trad 10m
47
15 Cripple Crack Trad 10m
48
12 Seafood Special Trad 10m

The broken cracks in the slabby wall 2m right of Cripple Crack. Sandy rock.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Jane Montgomery / Robert Dun

49
22 Desparete Sport 10m

The short arête between Lemon Sorbet and Face De Rat. Good for a photo. Rap down to a 2 carrot bolt belay on foot ledge. Climb the balancy arête passing 3 ring bolts. There is a belay carrot bolt at the top.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta

50
17 Smoked Tuna Trad 20m

The arête of the Face De Rat wall. Rap down to a 2 carrot bolt belay on foot ledge (if you traverse right from this belay you can also climb the crack part of Psychic Aberration). Climb the arête and wall with medium cam breaks and wires. There is a belay carrot bolt at the top.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta / Jane Montgomery

51
16 Psychic Aberration Trad 35m
52
20 Face de Rat Trad 35m
53
22 Cerendipity Trad 20m
54
19 ** Lemon Sorbet Trad 20m
55
21 ** E=Mc2 Sport 18m

Rap to a hanging belay off bolts, comfy harness required... Climb back up on the holds you can see but actually are not there!! Stella position to overcome any exposure problems

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 2012

56
18 Lithium Trad 10m
57
23 *** Wallace & Grommet Sport 18m

Rap down the corner to the double rings and traverse right to the orange wall and up some of the best rock at the point

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 2012

58
19 Hungry Heart Trad 42m
59
26 ** Sticky Moments Sport 20m
60
20 * The Jaws of Death Trad 20m

Diagonally up and right from belay to the pod. Over block and into wideness. Easy to protect if you have big gear.

FA: Tom Williams, Ian Brown (19 M0), 1988

FFA: Robert Dun, Carl Jagusch, 2003

61
25 *** Itchy and Scratchy Sport 25m
62
26 ** Things that go Pop Sport 25m
63
25 ** Emotional Hooligan Sport 25m
64
17 Bluebeard Trad 35m
65
15 Snorkel Trad 40m
66
12 Sea Legs Trad 10m
67
7 Lobster Legs Trad 6m
68
10 Boiled Lobster Trad 6m
69
7 Lobster Pot Trad 6m
70
20 Peabody Trad 8m
71
7 Mixed Platter Trad 15m
72
7 Polite Chatter Trad 10m
73
16 Ground Swell Trad 20m

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1986

74
15 Superstar Leo Trad 15m
75
16 ** Sympatico Trad 20m
76
16 Bombs Away Trad 35m
77
14 *** Over the Yardarm Trad 30m

FA: Ian Brown, Peter Blunt, 1986

78
14 ** Urban Spaceman Trad 27m
79
80
20 * Reach around Sport 27m

Start up dry reaching and once you pull the lip trend left, following the fixed hangers.

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 2012

81
19 * Dry Reaching Sport 30m
82
22 ** Cast Adrift Trad 30m

in the middle of wall you rap down 5 mtrs right of over the yard arm slab, thru roof (crux) rest in middle of easier climbing on cams and bolts to a tough finish

FA: Rod Young, Carlie Happ, 1998

83
24 * Snickers Ahoy Sport 30m
84
15 ** Aeolus Trad 30m

FA: Ian Brown, Peter Blunt, 1985

85
18 Farewell Angelina Trad 36m
86
18 *** Hello Dolly Sport 30m
87
17 Gasping for Breath Trad 30m
88
18 Lost in Choss Trad 30m
89
15 Avoiding Flora Trad 25m

FA: Roy Fryer, Werner Steyer, Bob McMillan, 1988

90

Mono action near the top!

FA: Ivan Valenta, Vince Valenta

91
17 ** Landlubber Trad 25m

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1986

92
18 Midnight Oil Trad 30m
93
15 * Starboard Tack Trad 30m

Climb the 'Landlubber' crack for 7m, moving right below the small roof. Climb over or around the flake and follow the rightwards groove to the top.

Start: As for 'Landlubber'

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1986

94
95
18 Against the Wind Trad 35m
96
16 ** Rohanda Trad 40m
  1. 25m (16)

  2. 15m (16)

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1985

97
19 ** Bushido Trad 30m
98
13 Banksia Corner Trad 40m
99
16 Stormfront Trad 15m
101
19 *** The Deeps Trad 35m
102
14 ** Elspeth Trad 12m
103
13 First Mate Trad 12m
104
9 Steel City Blues Trad 12m
105
16 Beebop Trad 12m
106
12 Piper Corner Trad 30m
107
21 ** The Boo Sensation Trad 30m
108
18 *** The Gap of Rohan Trad 30m

Climb the undercut nose on reasonable pro - mainly cams. At 10m from the top pro thins. Take cams to 3.5 and tricams. This was named after the movie, NOT the first assensionists.

FA: Rohan Kilham & Rob Nicol

110
15 Hornblower Trad 40m
111
15 Blown Away Trad 5m

A more direct finish to the second pitch of Horn Blower. Head up the easy ramp and climb the first crack instead of the second.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun

112
21 Whistle Blower Sport 10m

The face left of Blown Horn. Locate the bolts at the top and rap down to the big belay ledge at the start of Hornblower?s second pitch. Either clip the first bolt on the way down, or set up a belay in the horizontal break using cams (around size ½-2). Left and up past 4 ring bolts.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta

113
18 Blown Horn Trad 35m
114
18 Horn Blown Trad 30m
115
21 *** Werner Burner Sport 25m

Ascends the face right of Horn Blown. There is a diagonal crack on the cliff top right of a small bush. This is Horn Blown. Locate 2 carrot bolts at the top and rap down Horn Blown to a ledge. The wall is overhanging so clip a couple of the bolts on the way down to avoid being stranded in space. There is a 2 carrot bolt belay at the ledge. Left and up past 7 ring bolts. The bolts can be supplemented with cams.

FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun

116
22 ** Welcome to the Asylum Sport 20m, 9

Start off ledge and climb steeply up jugs and some realy cool moves. Top out and belay from two carrot bolts.

FA: Will Watkins, Tom Benefer, 2012

117
22 ** Boat People Sport 20m, 8

The bolt line right of Werner Berner. Absail in to the recessed ledge off two carrot bolts clipping the last two draws to get to the ledge. Two ring bolt belay. Climb powerfully on good holds off the ledge onto a pumpy overhanging face. Overcome a couple of tricky sections to finish with the crux passing the last bolt.

FA: Will Watkins, Rick fillips, 2012

118
14 Trumpeter Trad 10m

The major notch between Cannon Fodder and Horn Blown. Rap from 2 carrot bolts (bolts are to the left of the notch) to a large hidden ledge 10m down. Up the corner / chimney to the top. Good cam protection.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta

119
21 ** Bandit Boy Sport 12m, 6

Pleasant bolted wall and arete . Start off the left hand end of the split membranes ledge. Airy and exposed moves up the wall and arete past 6 ring bolts. Belay bolts at top.

FA: Will Watkins, Jake Noblet, 2013

120
16 Cannon Fodder Trad 40m
121
122
20 * Joyboys Trad 12m
123
22 Sandblaster Sport 12m
124
24 Split Membranes Trad 15m

FA: Greg James, Adrian Kladnig, 1992

125
21 Gushing Blood Trad 12m

FA: Ian Brown, Bob McMillan (19 M1), 1988

FFA: Robert Dun, Ivan Valenta, 2002

126
15 Micron Trad 10m
127
16 Smash and Grab Trad 20m
128

FA: Greg James, Adrian Kladnig, Captain Smeg, 1992

129
17 Bird of Omen Trad 42m
130
20 * Bird of Prey Sport 18m

Abseil down to double ring belay. The climbing gets harder as you progress..

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 2012

131
132
20 Medusa Sport 15m
133
20 Mermaid Sport 15m
135
16 Great White Shark Trad 40m
136
15 Body Noises Trad 30m
137

At the time the lighthouse keeper used this as his personal garbage dump.

FA: Adrian Kladnig, Greg James, 1992