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Bayside Upper 133 routes in Area

  • Avg. Height: 18m
  • Style: ?,Trad and other styles
  • Favorites: 1
  • Ascents: 1,183

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Description:© (koala)

The upper tier.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Search of the Perfect Grogan

At the time the lighthouse keeper used this as his personal garbage dump.

FA: Adrian Kladnig, Greg James, 1992

4
Trad 7m
2 Body Noises
15
Unknown 30m
3 Great White Shark
16
Unknown 40m
4 Jane's Project
19
Unknown 15m
5 Mermaid
20
Sport 15m
6 Medusa
20
Sport 15m
7 Stan The Stingray Man
16
Unknown 15m
8 * Bird of Prey

Abseil down to double ring belay. The climbing gets harder as you progress..

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 2012

20
Sport 18m
9 Bird of Omen
17
Unknown 42m
10 *** Massacre at the Discotheque

FA: Greg James, Adrian Kladnig, Captain Smeg, 1992

19
Trad 20m
11 Smash and Grab
16
Unknown 20m
12 Micron
15
Unknown 10m
13 Gushing Blood
21
Aid 12m
14 Split Membranes

FA: Greg James, Adrian Kladnig, 1992

24
Trad 15m
15 Sandblaster
22
Unknown 12m
16 * Joyboys
20
Unknown 12m
17 Give Yourself a Kiss
16
Unknown 10m
18 Cannon Fodder
16
Unknown 40m
19 ** Bandit Boy

Pleasant bolted wall and arete . Start off the left hand end of the split membranes ledge. Airy and exposed moves up the wall and arete past 6 ring bolts. Belay bolts at top.

FA: Will Watkins, Jake Noblet, 2013

21
Sport 12m , 6
20 Trumpeter

The major notch between Cannon Fodder and Horn Blown. Rap from 2 carrot bolts (bolts are to the left of the notch) to a large hidden ledge 10m down. Up the corner / chimney to the top. Good cam protection.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta,

14
Trad 10m
21 ** Boat People

The bolt line right of Werner Berner. Absail in to the recessed ledge off two carrot bolts clipping the last two draws to get to the ledge. Two ring bolt belay. Climb powerfully on good holds off the ledge onto a pumpy overhanging face. Overcome a couple of tricky sections to finish with the crux passing the last bolt.

FA: Will Watkins, Rick fillips, 2012

22
Sport 20m , 8
22 ** Welcome to the Asylum

Start off ledge and climb steeply up jugs and some realy cool moves. Top out and belay from two carrot bolts.

FA: Will Watkins, Tom Benefer, 2012

22
Sport 20m , 9
23 *** Werner Burner

Ascends the face right of Horn Blown. There is a diagonal crack on the cliff top right of a small bush. This is Horn Blown. Locate 2 carrot bolts at the top and rap down Horn Blown to a ledge. The wall is overhanging so clip a couple of the bolts on the way down to avoid being stranded in space. There is a 2 carrot bolt belay at the ledge. Left and up past 7 ring bolts. The bolts can be supplemented with cams.

FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun,

21
Sport 25m
24 Horn Blown
18
Unknown 30m
25 Blown Horn
18
Unknown 35m
26 Whistle Blower

The face left of Blown Horn. Locate the bolts at the top and rap down to the big belay ledge at the start of Hornblower?s second pitch. Either clip the first bolt on the way down, or set up a belay in the horizontal break using cams (around size ½-2). Left and up past 4 ring bolts.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta,

21
Sport 10m
27 Blown Away

A more direct finish to the second pitch of Horn Blower. Head up the easy ramp and climb the first crack instead of the second.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun,

15
Unknown 5m
28 Hornblower
15
Unknown 40m
29 ** Piper at the Gates of Dawn
18
Unknown 35m
30 *** The Gap of Rohan

Climb the undercut nose on reasonable pro - mainly cams. At 10m from the top pro thins. Take cams to 3.5 and tricams. This was named after the movie, NOT the first assensionists.

FA: Rohan Kilham & Rob Nicol,

18
Unknown 30m
31 ** The Boo Sensation
21
Unknown 30m
32 Piper Corner
12
Trad 30m
33 Beebop
16
Unknown 12m
34 Steel City Blues
9
Trad 12m
35 First Mate
13
Unknown 12m
36 ** Elspeth
14
Unknown 12m
37 *** The Deeps
19
Unknown 35m
38 The Deeps Direct Finish
16
Unknown 21m
39 Stormfront
16
Unknown 15m
40 Banksia Corner
13
Trad 40m
41 ** Bushido
19
Unknown 30m
42 ** Rohanda
  1. 25m (16)

  2. 15m (16)

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1985

16
Trad 40m
43 Against the Wind
18
Unknown 35m
44 * Starboard Tack

Climb the 'Landlubber' crack for 7m, moving right below the small roof. Climb over or around the flake and follow the rightwards groove to the top.

Start: As for 'Landlubber'

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1986

15
Trad 30m
45 Midnight Oil
18
Unknown 30m
46 ** Landlubber

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1986

17
Trad 25m
47 * Scarier than Bronte
21
Unknown 35m
48 ** Double Digit Inflammation

Mono action near the top!

FA: Ivan Valenta, Vince Valenta,

24
Unknown 25m
49 Avoiding Flora

FA: Roy Fryer, Werner Steyer, Bob McMillan, 1988

15
Trad 25m
50 Gasping for Breath
17
Unknown 30m
51 *** Hello Dolly
18
Sport 30m
52 Farewell Angelina
18
Unknown 36m
53 ** Aeolus

FA: Ian Brown, Peter Blunt, 1985

15
Trad 30m
54 * Snickers Ahoy
24
Sport 30m
55 ** Cast Adrift

in the middle of wall you rap down 5 mtrs right of over the yard arm slab, thru roof (crux) rest in middle of easier climbing on cams and bolts to a tough finish

FA: Rod Young, Carlie Happ, 1998

22
Trad 30m
56 * Dry Reaching
19
Trad 30m
57 * Reach around

Start up dry reaching and once you pull the lip trend left, following the fixed hangers.

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 2012

20
Sport 27m
58 Dracophyllum Corner
9
Trad 30m
59 ** Urban Spaceman
14
Trad 27m
60 ** Over the Yardarm

FA: Ian Brown, Peter Blunt, 1986

14
Trad 30m
61 Bombs Away
16
Unknown 35m
62 ** Sympatico
16
Trad 20m
63 Ground Swell

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1986

16
Trad 20m
64 Mixed Platter
7
Unknown 15m
65 Peabody
20
Unknown 8m
66 Lobster Pot
7
Unknown 6m
67 Boiled Lobster
10
Trad 6m
68 Lobster Legs
7
Trad 6m
69 Sea Legs
12
Unknown 10m
70 Snorkel
15
Unknown 40m
71 Bluebeard
17
Unknown 35m
72 ** Emotional Hooligan
25
Sport 25m
73 ** Things that go Pop
26
Sport 25m
74 *** Itchy and Scratchy
25
Unknown 25m
75 The Jaws of Death
19 M0
Aid 20m
76 ** Sticky Moments
26
Unknown 20m
77 Hungry Heart
19
Unknown 42m
78 *** Wallace & Grommet

Rap down the corner to the double rings and traverse right to the orange wall and up some of the best rock at the point

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 2012

23
Sport 18m
79 Lithium
18
Unknown 10m
80 ** E=Mc2

Rap to a hanging belay off bolts, comfy harness required... Climb back up on the holds you can see but actually are not there!! Stella position to overcome any exposure problems

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 2012

21
Sport 18m
81 Lemon Sorbet
19
Trad 20m
82 Desparete

The short arête between Lemon Sorbet and Face De Rat. Good for a photo. Rap down to a 2 carrot bolt belay on foot ledge. Climb the balancy arête passing 3 ring bolts. There is a belay carrot bolt at the top.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta,

22
Sport 10m
83 Face de Rat
20
Unknown 35m
84 Psychic Aberration
16
Unknown 35m
85 Smoked Tuna

The arête of the Face De Rat wall. Rap down to a 2 carrot bolt belay on foot ledge (if you traverse right from this belay you can also climb the crack part of Psychic Aberration). Climb the arête and wall with medium cam breaks and wires. There is a belay carrot bolt at the top.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta / Jane Montgomery,

17
Unknown 20m
86 Seafood Special

The broken cracks in the slabby wall 2m right of Cripple Crack. Sandy rock.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Jane Montgomery / Robert Dun,

12
Unknown 10m
87 Cripple Crack
15
Unknown 10m
88 Cut and Thrust
17 to 19
Unknown 10m
89 ** Batten The Hatches

1 FH and 3 rings up overhanging wall L of Cut And Thrust

24
Unknown 10m
90 Jaws II
17
Trad 10m
91 Hammerhead
17
Unknown 10m
92 Wobbegong Wobbles
16
Trad 10m
93 Playful Penguins

The steep wall between Wobbegong Wobbles and the arête. Up past 3 bolts. There is a belay bolt at the top.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun,

18
Sport 10m
94 Lazy Lobsters

The arête next to Amusement Value. Start up amusement value until small ledge. Step right and continue up the arête passing 4 bolts. Belay bolt at top. The start has some poor rock.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun,

15
Sport 10m
95 Amusement Value
18
Unknown 10m
96 * Flotsam

Clean hand crack on the east side of T Shirt 'Gully' - on the orange wall right of the huge jutting roof. Abseil to small ledge to avoid the sand at its base.

FA: Bob McMillan, Ian Brown, 2000

10
Trad 6m
97 ** Superstylin

underneath the big cave before you hit T shirt Gully. Not obvious at first.

25
Sport 12m
98 Hawaiian Shirt

Bridges up between the big blocks on the west side of T Shirt Gully. Start up the south side of the blocks and step left when it becomes too wide to bridge.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun,

8
Unknown 10m
99 Flanny

The wide corner crack on the right side of Teeshirt

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta,

12
Trad 10m
100 Teeshirt

The obvious large diagonal crack on the western side of 'Teeshirt' 'Gully'

Start: Abseil in to the large ledge at the base of the crack

FA: Bob McMillan, Glenn Jones, 2000

7
Trad 10m
101 Thongs
10
Trad 10m
102 Polo Shirt

The corner between Thongs and Boardshorts

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun,

10
Trad 10m
103 Boardshorts
11
Trad 10m
104 Sweat Shirt

Follows the flaking ramp left of Boardshorts

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun,

6
Trad 10m
105 Scurvy
11
Unknown 20m
106 Blue Eyed Lizard
27
Unknown
107 Rainbird
18
Unknown 16m
108 Craving Penetrations
15
Unknown 18m
109 Seals and Submarines
18
Unknown 12m
110 Exit
9
Unknown 8m
111 Misconceptions
18
Unknown 18m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
112 Bedroom Wall
15
Trad 9m
113 ** Room with a View

FA: Glen Jones, Bob McMillan, 1988

12
Trad 9m
114 ** Over the Rainbow
21
Trad 9m
115 Megadeath
20
Trad 20m
116 Burning Deck
16
Trad 9m
117 Fandango
15
Trad 6m
118 Self Raising Flower
15
Trad 6m
119 Golden Summers
14
Trad 6m
120 Just for Fun
6
Trad 5m
121 For a Giggle
13
Trad 5m
122 Sneaker
12
Trad 5m
123 Lizard Ramp
4
Trad 5m
124 Penguin
6
Trad 5m
125 Dogfish
6
Trad 5m
126 Gopher Writ
16
Trad 5m
127 Nosepickings
14
Unknown 6m
128 Lunging Limpet
14
Unknown 8m
129 Derek the Octopus
9
Unknown 10m
130 Peter Periwinkle
5
Unknown 8m
131 Grunties
18
Unknown 8m
132 Naughty but Nice
19
Unknown 10m
133 Dundee
16
Unknown 12m