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Access issues inherited from Point Perpendicular

Point Perp is located within a Navy Weapons Range. It is generally open during weekends and NSW school holidays though it is best to ring the rangers (02 4448 3411) to check first.

Ethic inherited from Point Perpendicular

Point Perp is predominantly a trad crag. There has been more bolting recently but this is a particularly contentious topic. A lot of the bolts are the traditional Aussie carrot and it would be a good idea to have at least half a dozen keyhole hangers before going to the Point for the first time.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
25 ** Mr Logistics Mixed 15m, 4

Awesome arete. Short, steep and sustained unlike many a point perp route.

Start: Next to 'Midnight Lightning' on left hand end of 'Ocean Boulevard'. Rap off rings at top of arete to small foot ledge. Use first ring and gear as belay.

2
19 Aloha Trad 30m

Unpleasant. Start at extreme L end of Ocean Boulevard. Belay off some blocks at the bottom of the obvious buttress. L around the nose, then up, then L to longish ledge. Up middle of wall past flakes. Up corner, then huge flake on L wall. Finish up the crack on the L to avoid the top part of the flake (loose).

FFA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1986

3

First a trad route, never done. Then a full sport route with a flurry of ascents until the choppers swooped in. All but 2 bolts have been chopped by persons unknown in March 2013. Full trad rack now required! Starts at double ringbolt belay at the furthest you can safely walk left when on the Windjammer ledge.

Set by Peter Blunt, Ian Brown (Beside The Seaside), 1985

FA: Bettina Fritz, Nick la Bluet, Will Watkins, Rick Phillips, 2012

4
21 * Midnight Lightning Mixed 30m, 1

Great wall route all gear bar one U-bolt. Start up the obvious flake in the lower wall a few metres left of Hot To Trot's line of rings. Comes complete with excellent arete crack finish.

FA: John Fantini, James Hoy, 1990

5
22 ** Hot to Trot Sport 23m, 11

Starts directly under the line of bolts left of the Montezuma corner, gaining in difficulty the higher you go. Solid moves at the grade guard the anchors. Beware the ethics police if you bridge into the corner.

FA: Rick Phillips & John Lattanzio, 2012

6
18 * Montezuma Trad 30m

The corner. Interesting terrain, fairly sustained with good rock.

7
24 ** Sunset Boulevard Sport 30m, 10

Shady, steep, all bolts and great face moves. Don't confuse this with Vertical Romance. Start up the corner as for Montezuma, then follow the rings on the right wall and through a small roof up high.

8
25 *** Vertical Romance Sport 30m, 11

Shady all day, overhanging, all bolts and crazy cool moves. The line of ringbolts just around the arete from Turning Of The Tide. This is a seriously awesome, hard route.

9

The left arete of Windjammer Wall. Incredible climbing up one the best aretes at Point Perp. Lots of carrot bolts which are supplemented by occasional medium sized cams. This was oringinally climbed onsight with no bolts (!) and was later accidentally retrobolted.

FFA: Tony Barton, Joe Lynch, John Churchill, Mike Peck, 1988

10
24 ** Barracouta Mixed 30m, 5

Start just right of Turning of the Tide. Up past short corner and numerous breaks (natural gear) to headwall. Continue past several carrot bolts and a fixed hanger through the harder stuff. Seriously tricky up high.

FFA: Andrew Bull, Tony Barton, 1990

11
18 Blazing Jugs Trad 64m

Manky 8 pitch traverse.

FFA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1985

12
22 R *** Memorable Moves Trad 30m

Daunting and inspiring trad masterpiece. The first thin weakness through the upper headwall on the left side of the wall. Easily up left facing flake to start, then up juggy wall (not well protected) to final searing seam. Full trad rack from #5 cam to tiny wires.

Start: Starts 2m left of 'Icebird'.

FFA: John Fantini, Phil Georgeff, 1988

13
19 *** Icebird Trad 30m

The wide crack near the left side of the wall. A great line and a great climb. Up the jugs then the awkward wide crack.

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1984

14
24 ** Dirty Dancing Trad 30m

Crack just right of Icebird, which gets thinner and harder as you get higher and pumpder. This was John's pick of the area.

FFA: John Fantini, Phil Georgeff, 1988

15
21 ** Not All There Trad 25m

The line of carrots left of Windjammer that leads to 2 bolt lower off. Take cams and a handful of brackets. The direct finish is 26 and is called Halfway House Extension (for some reason). The lower-off will twist the s#it out of your rope - would be nice to see it upgraded.

16

The one bolt extension to Not All There.

17
26 *** Seamstress Trad 30m

Variant finish to Windjammer. Start up Windjammer, then avoid the wide crack by stepping left into the white marble seam. Very challenging trad climb both the climbing and protection.

FFA: Robert Dun, Matt Scholes (preplaced gear), 2009

18
19 ** Windjammer Trad 30m

The right one of a trio of cracks. Ensure you place lots of good gear in the first half as some of the rock is a bit suspect.

FA: Ian Brown, Peter Blunt, 1984

FFA: Ian Brown, Bob McMillan, 1988

19

Follows the thin, right-sloping crack on the headwall R of Windjammer. Up suspect rock to the base of the crack. Follow the bolts below the slanting crack to the top.

FFA: Ant Phren, 1989

20
21 ** Blowing In The Wind Sport 20m, 10

The leftmost of a trio of easier sport routes in the center of Windjammer Wall. Popular. Jug haul 'til final moves.

FA: Rick Phillips, Will Watkins, 2012

21

Up and R from the anchors past two more clips. No further info on this. Done? Grade? Project?

22
22 ** Shooting The Breeze Sport 23m, 10

The middle of the trio. Fantastic climb; very technical and pumpy, save some gas for the top. Ringbolts.

FA: Rick Phillips, Will Watkins, 2012

23

Some nice holds on this one. Up and R from the anchors past two more clips. No further info on this. Could be around 25 or 26? Please add info if you have any.

24
19 ** Drunk And Disorderly Sport 20m

The right of the trio. Steeper than it looks with a deceptive crux near the top. Three carrots up a slab to start, then a couple of FH's, then ringbolts. A royal sampler.

FA: Gareth Downey, Rick Phillips

25

4 bolt project above DAD. Superb rock and thin technical climbing. If you can stop and clip then you must be Adam Ondra. :-)

FA: Will Watkins

26
26 ** Feeding Frenzy Mixed 30m, 3

The R-leaning shallow flake in the headwall that is L of the main overlap (Liquid Lunch). Start just to the R of the centre of Windjammer Wall beneath the flake. Climb the easy lower part of the wall (bolt) to the flake, move L near the top to finish.

FFA: Giles Bradbury, 1989

27
26 * Liquid Lunch Mixed 30m, 1

The R-ward leaning major diagonal flake on the R side of Windjammer Wall. Start a coupe of metres R of Feeding Frenzy, about 10m below a small rooflet. Up, tending R to a U-bolt at beginning of flake, then follow the flake and crack diagonally R to the top.

FFA: Giles Bradbury

28
23 * Last Man Standing Mixed 25m, 5

The second line of rings left of Jaws' major corner. Five rings and several finger/hand sized cams to lower off anchors below the top of the cliff where the line joins Liquid Lunch. Connecting it into the top is a CLOSED PROJECT (of Neil's) that should weigh in around 26.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

29
22 ** Hot Cross Buns Mixed 20m, 1

Sustained and well protected wall climbing with characteristic Point Perp buckets and horizontals. Starts 2m left of 'SS Minow' below thin crack. Face to start, then up juggy crack to unlikely wall and right leading flake. When the holds run out at 20m traverse right to join 'SS Minow' at its last BR and finish for that route. Bring a full rack with doubles in the finger/hand sizes plus a #4 camalot to protect the first 5m.

FFA: Neil Monteith

30
22 ** SS Minow Mixed 25m, 4

Starts 5m left of the Jaws corner below the line of FHs. Up wall past three FHs then trad goodness until final climatic flake (BR). Single set of cams protects the rest. Finishes at left set of lower-offs about 4m short of the top of the wall. The single BR above is an open project.

FFA: Greg James, 2001

31
24 ** Hate Mail Mixed 25m, 5

Varied and sustained wall climbing up beautiful polished rock with the typical cruxy 'Windjammer' finish. Starts 1m left of 'Tenere' behind small tree and 2m right of 'SS Minow'. Five U-bolts and four or five good cam slots (fingers to hand size). Save a #2 Camalot for pocket in the finish moves. Lower-off anchor is 3m below the top of the cliff at large finish pocket.

FFA: Neil Monteith

32
20 ** Tenere Trad 28m

Start in the corner as for Jaws. At the ledge climb the seam on the main (L) wall. Continue up the pumpy handcrack to top.

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1985

33
19 Jaws Trad 32m

The obvious corner in the middle of the wall.

FFA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1984

34
23 ** Some Weird Sin Mixed 30m, 7

Start on the right-hand side of the middle arete of 'Windjammer Wall' - just right of Jaws. Up the wall and then arete passing bolts and cams. Move around to the R-side of the arete after clipping final bolt. Take lots of brackets.

FFA: Mike Moore, Greg James, 1998

35
18 * Red Shift Trad 35m

Traverse at half height from the arete of Some Weird Sin to the corner of Man Overboard.

Start: up the initial small corner of Hungry Eyes, or continue on from Blazing Jugs.

36
23 ** Hungry Eyes Trad 30m

Start on top of the block, at the small L-facing corner just right of Some Weird Sin. Up enjoyable jugs, passing a couple of small overlaps to base of crack. Up thin crack then into hand crack to finish.

FFA: John Fantini, Phil Georgeff, 1988

37
24 ** The Omen Sport 22m, 13

Great sport climbing on lovely orange rock. This is the ringbolted line between Hungry Eyes and Permissabilitly. The route doesn't climb as direct as it looks - stay to the R of most bolts in the lower two thirds of the route - including a fairly large traverse R and up at the third-last bolt. To get the full tick, climb past the double bolt anchors for one more move to the large pocket and back-jump to the anchors.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2013

Set by Simon Vaughan, 2013

38
27 *** Da Omen Sport 30m

The one bolt extension of The Omen to enable the link into the top of Permissability. Super small pockets, just like 80s French limestone!

Set by Matt Brooks

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2013

39
27 ** Permissability Mixed 30m, 2

The overlap right of Hungry Eyes. Awesome moves on great rock. Sustained through the top.

FFA: Duncan Hunter, 2009

40
24 ** Sail the Nullabor Trad 30m

Ascends the centre of this piece of wall to finish either up the thin crack (better pro, but harder) or the flake to its L. Another trad masterpiece.

FFA: John Fantini, Phil Georgeff, 1988

41
25 ** I Have A Dream Sport 20m, 8

Start 3m L of Walk The Plank. Hard start with awkward second clip - care! Steel yourself for the top moves on the rounded flake. If Martin Luther King could dream I guess we all can...

FA:

Set by Rick Phillips, 2012

FFA: Will Watkins, 2012

42
24 *** Walk the Plank Mixed 30m, 3

This is awesome. Start below the fine crack with a bolt, 4m left of corner. Up the wall past breaks and three bolts. At third bolt head right up the double edged flake.

FA: Mark Wilson, Richard Watts, 1988

43
23 ** Happy Go Lucky Sport 22m, 10

Start 3m L of the Man Overboard corner under the line of fixed hangers. Routefinding skills required at second bolt (!) Sustained climbing on fiddly, often sharp little holds finishing at lower-off 4m below the clifftop. Has been linked into the top flake of Walk The Plank to top out.

FA: Rick Phillips, Seb Sakowicz, 2012

44
16 ** Man Overboard Trad 26m

Start in the corner, just right of the typical abseil line. Better than it looks with varied climbing and good jamming at the top on clean rock.

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1984

45
19 Night Shift Trad 32m

Traverse at half height from the Man Overboard corner to the arete, about half way up Full Sail.

46
17 *** Grey Mist Trad 30m

Most will agree, this climb is the best easy/moderate trad route at the Point and for miles around. Gear placement is amply available and the climbing consistent at the grade. Start in the middle of the dark south-facing wall to the right of the Man Overboard corner. Follow the sinuous crack as it slowly widens to hand size.

FFA: Ian Brown, Peter Blunt, 1984

47
19 * Full Sail Trad 40m

Excellent climbing, better than it looks.

Start: The crack just L of the arete, R of Grey Mist.

  1. 23m (19) Follow the crack until it stops then up L side of arete until able to move R to scoop on nose. Up scoop to good ledge on R.

  2. 17m (17) R along ledge and up the zig zag crack with interest.

FA: Ian Brown, Peter Blunt, 1984

48
22 ** Rock the Clock Mixed 30m, 4

The crack and then bolted arete to the top.

Start: Start as for 'Full Sail', at the crack just left of the arete and to the right of 'Grey Mist'.

FFA: John Fantini, Keith Bell, 1989

49
20 Saving Grace Trad 35m

FFA: Ian Brown, Peter Blunt, 1988

50
18 Gear Shift Trad 40m

Traverse right from the belay of Night Shift (i.e. halfway up Full Sail) to Search and Destroy. Up this to finish.

FFA: Ian Brown, Bob McMillan, 1988

51

FFA: Glenn Jones, Mike Peck, Bob McMillan

52
18 Search and Destroy Trad 30m

Not to be confused with the route by the same name in Centennial Glen, grade 32.

FFA: Ian Blunt, Peter Blunt, 1984