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Access issues inherited from Point Perpendicular

Point Perp is located within a Navy Weapons Range. It is generally open during weekends and NSW school holidays though it is best to ring the rangers (02 4448 3411) to check first.

Descent Notes

Abseil in from the 2x carrots at the top of 'Walk the Plank' or 'Man Overboard'.

Ethic inherited from Point Perpendicular

Point Perp is predominantly a trad crag. There has been more bolting recently but this is a particularly contentious topic. A lot of the bolts are the traditional Aussie carrot and it would be a good idea to have at least half a dozen keyhole hangers before going to the Point for the first time.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

To reach the following route abseil in from the ring bolts at the top.

1
25 ** Mr Logistics Mixed 15m, 4

Awesome arete. Short, steep and sustained unlike many a point perp route.

Start: Next to 'Midnight Lightning' on left hand end of 'Ocean Boulevard'. Rap off rings at top of arete to small foot ledge. Use first ring and gear as belay. Take lots of 0.75 and 1 cams.

FA: Duncan Hunter, 2008

The following routes can be reached by abseiling in from the carrots at the top of 'Beside the Seaside' to double ring bolts at the start of 'Beside the Seaside'. The ledge here is quite narrow and is not recommended for access to routes on the left hand end of Windjammer Wall.

Abseiling from the double ring bolts will take you to down to Seaside Lower to the start of 'She Sells Sea Shells'.

2
19 Aloha Trad 30m

Unpleasant. Start at extreme L end of Ocean Boulevard. Belay off some blocks at the bottom of the obvious buttress. L around the nose, then up, then L to longish ledge. Up middle of wall past flakes. Up corner, then huge flake on L wall. Finish up the crack on the L to avoid the top part of the flake (loose).

FFA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1986

3
15 to 16 Beside the Seaside Mixed 40m, 2

First a trad route, never done. Then retrobolted and renamed. All but 2 bolts have been chopped by persons unknown in March 2013. Full trad rack now required! Starts at double ringbolt belay at the furthest you can safely walk left when on the Windjammer ledge.

FA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1985

The following routes start on the halfway ledge (Ocean Boulevard). Abseil in from the bolts at the top of 'Man Overboard' and walk along the halfway ledge to the base of the routes.

This is a much safer option than the abseil in from the bolts at the top of 'Beside the Seaside'.

4
21 * Midnight Lightning Mixed 30m, 1

Great wall route all gear bar one U-bolt. Start up the obvious flake in the lower wall a few metres left of Hot To Trot's line of rings. Comes complete with excellent arete crack finish.

FA: John Fantini & James Hoy, 1990

5
22 * Hot to Trot Sport 23m, 11

Line of bolts left of the Montezuma corner, gaining in difficulty the higher you go. Stemming into Montezuma near the top is considered 'off-route'. Some climbers have complained that the middle bolts on this route are perilously close to Midnight Lightning.

FA: Rick Phillips & John Lattanzio, 2012

6
18 * Montezuma Trad 30m

The corner. Interesting terrain, fairly sustained with good rock. Take lots of gear in the hands to fist range.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1985

7
24 ** Sunset Boulevard Sport 30m, 10

Shady, steep, all bolts and great face moves. Don't confuse this with Vertical Romance. Start up the corner as for Montezuma, then follow the rings on the right wall and through a small roof up high.

8
25 *** Vertical Romance Sport 30m, 11

Ignore the print guidebook's zero star rating - this is a three star route with good bolts and deserves a lot more ascents. Shady all day, overhanging, all bolts and crazy cool moves. The line of ringbolts just around the arete from Turning Of The Tide. This is a seriously awesome, hard route.

FA: Duncan Hunter

9

The left arete of Windjammer Wall. Incredible climbing up one the best aretes at Point Perp. Lots of carrot bolts which are supplemented by occasional medium sized cams. This was originally climbed onsight with no bolts (!) and was later "accidentally" retrobolted.

FA: Tony Barton, Joe Lynch, John Churchill & Mike Peck, 1988

10
24 ** Barracouta Mixed 30m, 5

Start just right of Turning of the Tide. Up past short corner and numerous breaks (natural gear) to headwall. Continue past several carrot bolts and a fixed hanger through the harder stuff. Seriously tricky up high.

FFA: Andrew Bull & Tony Barton, 1990

11
18 Blazing Jugs Trad 64m

Manky 8 pitch traverse.

FFA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1985

12
22 R *** Memorable Moves Trad 30m

Daunting and inspiring trad masterpiece. The first thin weakness through the upper headwall on the left side of the wall. Easily up left facing flake to start, then up juggy wall (not well protected) to final searing seam. Full trad rack from #5 cam to tiny wires. (Breaking a hold between about 5m and about 10m will probably result in hitting the deck, many people start up Icebird instead to skip the unprotected choss section. Good gear is available on the top half of the route). Starts 2m left of 'Icebird'.

FFA: John Fantini & Phil Georgeff, 1988

13
26 *** Susie now Settled Trad 25m

The face between 'Icebird' & 'Dirty Dancing' Moderate climbing about grade 21 till big break 6m from top. Put in lots of bomber gear and punch to top!

FA: Tim Booth, 2015

14
19 *** Icebird Trad 30m

The wide crack near the left side of the wall. A great line and a great climb. Up the jugs then the awkward wide crack.

FA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1984

15
24 ** Dirty Dancing Trad 30m

Crack just right of Icebird, which gets thinner and harder as you get higher and pumpder. This was John's pick of the area.

FFA: John Fantini & Phil Georgeff, 1988

16
21 * Not All There Trad 25m

The line of carrots left of Windjammer that leads to 2 bolt lower off. Take cams and a handful of brackets. The direct finish is 26 and is called Halfway House Extension (for some reason). The lower-off will twist the s#it out of your rope - would be nice to see it upgraded.

17

The one bolt extension to Not All There.

18
26 *** Seamstress Trad 30m

Variant finish to Windjammer. Start up Windjammer, then avoid the wide crack by stepping left into the white marble seam. Very challenging trad climb both the climbing and protection.

FFA: Robert Dun & Matt Scholes (preplaced gear), 2009

19
19 ** Windjammer Trad 30m

The right one of a trio of cracks. Ensure you place lots of good gear in the first half as some of the rock is a bit suspect.

FA: Ian Brown & Peter Blunt, 1984

FFA: Ian Brown & Bob McMillan, 1988

20

Follows the thin, right-sloping crack on the headwall R of Windjammer. Up suspect rock to the base of the crack. Follow the bolts below the slanting crack to the top. This route has been heavily retrobolted by Blowing in the Wind! (see the notes for the extension to that route)

FFA: Ant Phren, 1989

21
21 ** Blowing In The Wind Sport 20m, 10

The leftmost of a trio of easier sport routes in the center of Windjammer Wall which puts about 4 retrobolts and a loweroff anchor onto The Sublime and the Ridiculous.

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 2012

22
26 *** Settle Down Damo Sport 30m, 2

2 Bolts to top of crag. Top of "Blowing In The Wind" Have fun with it !

FA: Tim Booth, 2014

23
22 ** Shooting The Breeze Sport 23m, 10

The middle of the trio. Fantastic climb; very technical and pumpy, save some gas for the top. Ringbolts.

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 2012

24

Some nice holds on this one. Up and R from the anchors past two more clips. No further info on this. Could be around 25 or 26? Please add info if you have any.

25
19 ** Drunk And Disorderly Sport 20m

The right of the trio. Steeper than it looks with a deceptive crux near the top. Three carrots up a slab to start, then a couple of FH's, then ringbolts. A royal sampler.

FA: Gareth Downey & Rick Phillips

26

4 bolt project above DAD. Superb rock and thin technical climbing. If you can stop and clip then you must be Adam Ondra.

FA: Will Watkins

27
26 ** Feeding Frenzy Mixed 30m, 3

The R-leaning shallow flake in the headwall that is L of the main overlap (Liquid Lunch). Start just to the R of the centre of Windjammer Wall beneath the flake. Climb the easy lower part of the wall (bolt) to the flake, move L near the top to finish.

FFA: Giles Bradbury, 1989

28
26 * Liquid Lunch Mixed 30m, 1

The R-ward leaning major diagonal flake on the R side of Windjammer Wall. Start a coupe of metres R of Feeding Frenzy, about 10m below a small rooflet. Up, tending R to a U-bolt at beginning of flake, then follow the flake and crack diagonally R to the top.

FFA: Giles Bradbury

29
23 ** Last Man Standing Mixed 25m, 5

The second line of rings left of Jaws' major corner. Five rings and several finger/hand sized cams to lower off anchors below the top of the cliff where the line joins Liquid Lunch. Connecting it into the top is a possibility at around grade 26 and has been attempted by Neil & others.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

30
22 ** Hot Cross Buns Mixed 20m, 1

Sustained and well protected wall climbing with characteristic Point Perp buckets and horizontals. Starts 2m left of 'SS Minow' below thin crack. Face to start, then up juggy crack to unlikely wall and right leading flake. When the holds run out at 20m traverse right to join 'SS Minow' at its last BR and finish for that route. Bring a full rack with doubles in the finger/hand sizes plus a #4 camalot to protect the first 5m.

FFA: Neil Monteith

31
22 ** SS Minow Mixed 25m, 4

Starts 5m left of the Jaws corner below the line of FHs. Up wall past three FHs then trad goodness until final climatic flake (BR). Single set of cams protects the rest. Finishes at left set of lower-offs about 4m short of the top of the wall. The single BR above is an open project.

FFA: Greg James, 2001

32
24 *** Hate Mail Mixed 25m, 5

Varied and sustained wall climbing up beautiful polished rock with the typical cruxy 'Windjammer' finish. Starts 1m left of 'Tenere' behind small tree and 2m right of 'SS Minow'. Five U-bolts and four or five good cam slots (fingers to hand size). Save a #2 Camalot for pocket in the finish moves. Lower-off anchor is 3m below the top of the cliff at large finish pocket.

FFA: Neil Monteith

33
20 ** Tenere Trad 28m

Start in the corner as for Jaws. At the ledge climb the seam on the main (L) wall. Continue up the pumpy handcrack to top.

FA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1985

34
19 * Jaws Trad 32m

The obvious corner in the middle of the wall.

FFA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1984

35
22 ** No Crack no Sin Trad 25m

Climb the face between 'Jaws' and 'Some weird Sin'. Balance and exposed move low with tricky top section.

FA: Tim Booth, 2015

36
19 Jaws direct Trad 30m

Up slab right of corner, minimal gear. You can stay on slab until about 5m below top when step left to finish up jaws

FA: Ian brown

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