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Table of contents

1. Windjammer Wall 36 routes in Cliff

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.805976, -35.093929

Access Issues: inherited from Point Perpendicular

Point Perp is located within a Navy Weapons Range. It is generally open during weekends and NSW school holidays though it is best to ring the rangers (02 4448 3411) to check first.

Descent Notes:

Abseil in from the 2x carrots at the top of 'Walk the Plank' or 'Man Overboard'.

Ethic: inherited from Point Perpendicular

Point Perp is predominantly a trad crag. There has been more bolting recently but this is a particularly contentious topic. A lot of the bolts are the traditional Aussie carrot and it would be a good idea to have at least half a dozen keyhole hangers before going to the Point for the first time.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

To reach the following route abseil in from the ring bolts at the top.

1 ** Mr Logistics

Awesome arete. Short, steep and sustained unlike many a point perp route.

Start: Next to 'Midnight Lightning' on left hand end of 'Ocean Boulevard'. Rap off rings at top of arete to small foot ledge. Use first ring and gear as belay. Take lots of 0.75 and 1 cams.

FA: Duncan Hunter, 2008

25 Mixed 15m, 4

The following routes can be reached by abseiling in from the carrots at the top of 'Beside the Seaside' to double ring bolts at the start of 'Beside the Seaside'. The ledge here is quite narrow and is not recommended for access to routes on the left hand end of Windjammer Wall.

Abseiling from the double ring bolts will take you to down to Seaside Lower to the start of 'She Sells Sea Shells'.

2 Aloha

Unpleasant. Start at extreme L end of Ocean Boulevard. Belay off some blocks at the bottom of the obvious buttress. L around the nose, then up, then L to longish ledge. Up middle of wall past flakes. Up corner, then huge flake on L wall. Finish up the crack on the L to avoid the top part of the flake (loose).

FFA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1986

19 Trad 30m
3 Beside the Seaside

First a trad route, never done. Then retrobolted and renamed. All but 2 bolts have been chopped by persons unknown in March 2013. Full trad rack now required! Starts at double ringbolt belay at the furthest you can safely walk left when on the Windjammer ledge.

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1985

15 to 16 Mixed 40m, 2

The following routes start on the halfway ledge (Ocean Boulevard). Abseil in from the bolts at the top of 'Man Overboard' and walk along the halfway ledge to the base of the routes.

This is a much safer option than the abseil in from the bolts at the top of 'Beside the Seaside'.

4 * Midnight Lightning

Great wall route all gear bar one U-bolt. Start up the obvious flake in the lower wall a few metres left of Hot To Trot's line of rings. Comes complete with excellent arete crack finish.

FA: John Fantini, James Hoy, 1990

21 Mixed 30m, 1
5 * Hot to Trot

Line of bolts left of the Montezuma corner, gaining in difficulty the higher you go. Stemming into Montezuma near the top is considered 'off-route'. Some climbers have complained that the middle bolts on this route are perilously close to Midnight Lightning.

FA: Rick Phillips & John Lattanzio, 2012

22 Sport 23m, 11
6 * Montezuma

The corner. Interesting terrain, fairly sustained with good rock. Take lots of gear in the hands to fist range.

FA: Ian Brown,Peter Blunt, 1985

18 Trad 30m
7 ** Sunset Boulevard

Shady, steep, all bolts and great face moves. Don't confuse this with Vertical Romance. Start up the corner as for Montezuma, then follow the rings on the right wall and through a small roof up high.

24 Sport 30m, 10
8 *** Vertical Romance

Ignore the print guidebook's zero star rating - this is a three star route with good bolts and deserves a lot more ascents. Shady all day, overhanging, all bolts and crazy cool moves. The line of ringbolts just around the arete from Turning Of The Tide. This is a seriously awesome, hard route.

FA: Duncan Hunter

25 Sport 30m, 11
9 *** Turning Of The Tide

The left arete of Windjammer Wall. Incredible climbing up one the best aretes at Point Perp. Lots of carrot bolts which are supplemented by occasional medium sized cams. This was originally climbed onsight with no bolts (!) and was later "accidentally" retrobolted.

FA: Tony Barton,Joe Lynch,John Churchill,Mike Peck, 1988

22 Trad 30m
10 ** Barracouta

Start just right of Turning of the Tide. Up past short corner and numerous breaks (natural gear) to headwall. Continue past several carrot bolts and a fixed hanger through the harder stuff. Seriously tricky up high.

FFA: Andrew Bull, Tony Barton, 1990

24 Mixed 30m, 5
11 Blazing Jugs

Manky 8 pitch traverse.

FFA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1985

18 Trad 64m
12 *** Memorable Moves

Daunting and inspiring trad masterpiece. The first thin weakness through the upper headwall on the left side of the wall. Easily up left facing flake to start, then up juggy wall (not well protected) to final searing seam. Full trad rack from #5 cam to tiny wires. (Breaking a hold between about 5m and about 10m will probably result in hitting the deck, many people start up Icebird instead to skip the unprotected choss section. Good gear is available on the top half of the route). Starts 2m left of 'Icebird'.

FFA: John Fantini, Phil Georgeff, 1988

22 R Trad 30m
13 *** Susie now Settled

The face between 'Icebird' & 'Dirty Dancing' Moderate climbing about grade 21 till big break 6m from top. Put in lots of bomber gear and punch to top!

FA: @timaebooth1, 2015

26 Trad 25m
14 *** Icebird

The wide crack near the left side of the wall. A great line and a great climb. Up the jugs then the awkward wide crack.

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1984

19 Trad 30m
15 ** Dirty Dancing

Crack just right of Icebird, which gets thinner and harder as you get higher and pumpder. This was John's pick of the area.

FFA: John Fantini, Phil Georgeff, 1988

24 Trad 30m
16 * Not All There

The line of carrots left of Windjammer that leads to 2 bolt lower off. Take cams and a handful of brackets. The direct finish is 26 and is called Halfway House Extension (for some reason). The lower-off will twist the s#it out of your rope - would be nice to see it upgraded.

21 Trad 25m
17 ** Halfway House Extension / Not All There Extension

The one bolt extension to Not All There.

26 Sport 22m, 7
18 *** Seamstress

Variant finish to Windjammer. Start up Windjammer, then avoid the wide crack by stepping left into the white marble seam. Very challenging trad climb both the climbing and protection.

FFA: Robert Dun, Matt Scholes (preplaced gear), 2009

26 Trad 30m
19 ** Windjammer

The right one of a trio of cracks. Ensure you place lots of good gear in the first half as some of the rock is a bit suspect.

FA: Ian Brown, Peter Blunt, 1984

FFA: Ian Brown, Bob McMillan, 1988

19 Trad 30m
20 ** The Sublime and the Ridiculous

Follows the thin, right-sloping crack on the headwall R of Windjammer. Up suspect rock to the base of the crack. Follow the bolts below the slanting crack to the top. This route has been heavily retrobolted by Blowing in the Wind! (see the notes for the extension to that route)

FFA: Ant Phren, 1989

26 Mixed 30m, 3
21 ** Blowing In The Wind

The leftmost of a trio of easier sport routes in the center of Windjammer Wall which puts about 4 retrobolts and a loweroff anchor onto The Sublime and the Ridiculous.

FA: Rick Phillips, Will Watkins, 2012

21 Sport 20m, 10
22 *** Settle Down Damo

2 Bolts to top of crag. Top of "Blowing In The Wind" Have fun with it !

FA: @timaebooth1, 2014

26 Sport 30m, 2
23 ** Shooting The Breeze

The middle of the trio. Fantastic climb; very technical and pumpy, save some gas for the top. Ringbolts.

FA: Rick Phillips, Will Watkins, 2012

22 Sport 23m, 10
24 Shooting The Breeze Extension

Some nice holds on this one. Up and R from the anchors past two more clips. No further info on this. Could be around 25 or 26? Please add info if you have any.

Sport 2
25 ** Drunk And Disorderly

The right of the trio. Steeper than it looks with a deceptive crux near the top. Three carrots up a slab to start, then a couple of FH's, then ringbolts. A royal sampler.

FA: Gareth Downey, Rick Phillips

19 Sport 20m
26 Off Chops / Drunk and Disorderly Extension

4 bolt project above DAD. Superb rock and thin technical climbing. If you can stop and clip then you must be Adam Ondra.

FA: Will Watkins

27 Sport Project 4
27 ** Feeding Frenzy

The R-leaning shallow flake in the headwall that is L of the main overlap (Liquid Lunch). Start just to the R of the centre of Windjammer Wall beneath the flake. Climb the easy lower part of the wall (bolt) to the flake, move L near the top to finish.

FFA: Giles Bradbury, 1989

26 Mixed 30m, 3
28 * Liquid Lunch

The R-ward leaning major diagonal flake on the R side of Windjammer Wall. Start a coupe of metres R of Feeding Frenzy, about 10m below a small rooflet. Up, tending R to a U-bolt at beginning of flake, then follow the flake and crack diagonally R to the top.

FFA: Giles Bradbury

26 Mixed 30m, 1
29 ** Last Man Standing

The second line of rings left of Jaws' major corner. Five rings and several finger/hand sized cams to lower off anchors below the top of the cliff where the line joins Liquid Lunch. Connecting it into the top is a possibility at around grade 26 and has been attempted by Neil & others.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

23 Mixed 25m, 5
30 ** Hot Cross Buns

Sustained and well protected wall climbing with characteristic Point Perp buckets and horizontals. Starts 2m left of 'SS Minow' below thin crack. Face to start, then up juggy crack to unlikely wall and right leading flake. When the holds run out at 20m traverse right to join 'SS Minow' at its last BR and finish for that route. Bring a full rack with doubles in the finger/hand sizes plus a #4 camalot to protect the first 5m.

FFA: Neil Monteith

22 Mixed 20m, 1
31 ** SS Minow

Starts 5m left of the Jaws corner below the line of FHs. Up wall past three FHs then trad goodness until final climatic flake (BR). Single set of cams protects the rest. Finishes at left set of lower-offs about 4m short of the top of the wall. The single BR above is an open project.

FFA: Greg James, 2001

22 Mixed 25m, 4
32 *** Hate Mail

Varied and sustained wall climbing up beautiful polished rock with the typical cruxy 'Windjammer' finish. Starts 1m left of 'Tenere' behind small tree and 2m right of 'SS Minow'. Five U-bolts and four or five good cam slots (fingers to hand size). Save a #2 Camalot for pocket in the finish moves. Lower-off anchor is 3m below the top of the cliff at large finish pocket.

FFA: Neil Monteith

24 Mixed 25m, 5
33 ** Tenere

Start in the corner as for Jaws. At the ledge climb the seam on the main (L) wall. Continue up the pumpy handcrack to top.

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1985

20 Trad 28m
34 * Jaws

The obvious corner in the middle of the wall.

FFA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1984

19 Trad 32m
35 ** No Crack no Sin

Climb the face between 'Jaws' and 'Some weird Sin'. Balance and exposed move low with tricky top section.

FA: @timaebooth1, 2015

22 Trad 25m
36 Jaws direct

Up slab right of corner, minimal gear. You can stay on slab until about 5m below top when step left to finish up jaws

FA: Ian brown

19 Trad 30m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
15 to 16 Beside the Seaside Mixed 40m, 2
18 Blazing Jugs Trad 64m
* Montezuma Trad 30m
19 Aloha Trad 30m
** Drunk And Disorderly Sport 20m
*** Icebird Trad 30m
* Jaws Trad 32m
Jaws direct Trad 30m
** Windjammer Trad 30m
20 ** Tenere Trad 28m
21 ** Blowing In The Wind Sport 20m, 10
* Midnight Lightning Mixed 30m, 1
* Not All There Trad 25m
22 ** Hot Cross Buns Mixed 20m, 1
* Hot to Trot Sport 23m, 11
** No Crack no Sin Trad 25m
** SS Minow Mixed 25m, 4
** Shooting The Breeze Sport 23m, 10
*** Turning Of The Tide Trad 30m
22 R *** Memorable Moves Trad 30m
23 ** Last Man Standing Mixed 25m, 5
24 ** Barracouta Mixed 30m, 5
** Dirty Dancing Trad 30m
*** Hate Mail Mixed 25m, 5
** Sunset Boulevard Sport 30m, 10
25 ** Mr Logistics Mixed 15m, 4
*** Vertical Romance Sport 30m, 11
26 ** Feeding Frenzy Mixed 30m, 3
** Halfway House Extension Sport 22m, 7
* Liquid Lunch Mixed 30m, 1
*** Seamstress Trad 30m
*** Settle Down Damo Sport 30m, 2
*** Susie now Settled Trad 25m
** The Sublime and the Ridiculous Mixed 30m, 3
27 Off Chops Sport Project 4
? Shooting The Breeze Extension Sport 2