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Table of contents

1. Windjammer Wall 57 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.806189, -35.093821

Access Issues: inherited from Point Perpendicular

Point Perp is located within a Navy Weapons Range. It is generally open during weekends and NSW school holidays though it is best to ring the rangers (02 4448 3411) to check first.

Descent Notes:

Abseil in from the 2x carrots at the top of 'Walk the Plank' or 'Man Overboard'.

Ethic: inherited from Point Perpendicular

Point Perp is predominantly a trad crag. There has been more bolting recently but this is a particularly contentious topic. A lot of the bolts are the traditional Aussie carrot and it would be a good idea to have at least half a dozen keyhole hangers before going to the Point for the first time.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

To reach the following route abseil in from the ring bolts at the top.

1 ** Mr Logistics

Awesome arete. Short, steep and sustained unlike many a point perp route.

Start: Next to 'Midnight Lightning' on left hand end of 'Ocean Boulevard'. Rap off rings at top of arete to small foot ledge. Use first ring and gear as belay. Take lots of 0.75 and 1 cams.

FA: Duncan Hunter, 2008

25 Mixed 15m, 4

The following routes can be reached by abseiling in from the carrots at the top of 'Beside the Seaside' to double ring bolts at the start of 'Beside the Seaside'. The ledge here is quite narrow and is not recommended for access to routes on the left hand end of Windjammer Wall.

Abseiling from the double ring bolts will take you to down to Seaside Lower to the start of 'She Sells Sea Shells'.

2 Aloha

Unpleasant. Start at extreme L end of Ocean Boulevard. Belay off some blocks at the bottom of the obvious buttress. L around the nose, then up, then L to longish ledge. Up middle of wall past flakes. Up corner, then huge flake on L wall. Finish up the crack on the L to avoid the top part of the flake (loose).

FFA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1986

19 Trad 30m
3 Beside the Seaside

First a trad route, never done. Then retrobolted and renamed. All but 2 bolts have been chopped by persons unknown in March 2013. Full trad rack now required! Starts at double ringbolt belay at the furthest you can safely walk left when on the Windjammer ledge.

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1985

15 to 16 Mixed 40m, 2

Shady End

Tucked away at the far left end of Ocean boulevard ledge are several shady routes. You can walk here from Grey Mist, but take a little care - the drop off below is bigger and easier here.

4 ** Midnight Lightning

Great wall route all gear bar one U-bolt. Start up the obvious flake in the lower wall a few metres left of Hot To Trot's line of rings. Comes complete with excellent arete crack finish.

FA: John Fantini, James Hoy, 1990

21 Mixed 30m, 1
5 ** Hot to Trot

Line of bolts left of the Montezuma corner, gaining in difficulty the higher you go. Stemming into Montezuma near the top is considered 'off-route'. Some climbers have complained that the middle bolts on this route are perilously close to Midnight Lightning.

FA: Rick Phillips & John Lattanzio, 2012

22 Sport 23m, 11
6 * Montezuma

The corner. Interesting terrain, fairly sustained with good rock. Take lots of gear in the hands to fist range.

FA: Ian Brown,Peter Blunt, 1985

18 Trad 30m
7 ** Sunset Boulevard

Shady, steep, all bolts and great face moves. Don't confuse this with Vertical Romance. Start up the corner as for Montezuma, then follow the rings on the right wall and through a small roof up high.

24 Sport 30m, 10
8 *** Vertical Romance

Ignore the print guidebook's zero star rating - this is a three star route with good bolts and deserves a lot more ascents. Shady all day, overhanging, all bolts and crazy cool moves. The line of ringbolts just around the arete from Turning Of The Tide. This is a seriously awesome, hard route.

FA: Duncan Hunter

25 Sport 30m, 11
9 ** Beef in Cider

The arête direct, starting on left side (just right of Vertical Romance). 5 U-bolts, optional 2&3 camalot, one U-bolt and then join into last three carrot bolts of Turning of the Tide. Pumpy! Use long runners on the carrots to avoid ropedrag.

FA: @nmonteith, 18th Apr

23 Sport 30m, 9

South Wall

The next routes are along the precision cut 30m high wall that gives Windjammer it's name. The left edge is the Turning of the Tide arete.

10 *** Turning Of The Tide

The left arete of Windjammer Wall. Incredible climbing up one the best aretes at Point Perp. Start on the right side of the arete on high small ledge. Climb the face to the right of the arete for 20m, then left onto arete proper and finish with spicy gritstone like funk. Lots of carrot bolts which are supplemented by occasional medium sized cams. This was originally climbed onsight with no bolts (!) and was later "accidentally" retrobolted.

FA: Tony Barton,Joe Lynch,John Churchill,Mike Peck, 1988

22 Trad 30m
11 ** Barracouta

Start just right of Turning of the Tide. Up past short corner and numerous breaks (natural gear) to headwall. Continue past several carrot bolts and a fixed hanger through the harder stuff. Seriously tricky up high.

FFA: Andrew Bull, Tony Barton, 1990

24 Mixed 30m, 5
12 Blazing Jugs

Manky 8 pitch traverse.

FFA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1985

18 Trad 64m
13 *** Memorable Moves

Daunting and inspiring trad masterpiece. The first thin weakness through the upper headwall on the left side of the wall. Easily up left facing flake to start, then up juggy wall (not well protected) to final searing seam. Full trad rack from #5 cam to tiny wires. (Breaking a hold between about 5m and about 10m will probably result in hitting the deck, many people start up Icebird instead to skip the unprotected choss section. Good gear is available on the top half of the route). Starts 2m left of 'Icebird'.

FFA: John Fantini, Phil Georgeff, 1988

22 R Trad 30m
14 *** Susie now Settled

The face between 'Icebird' & 'Dirty Dancing' Moderate climbing about grade 21 till big break 6m from top. Put in lots of bomber gear and punch to top!

FA: @timaebooth1, 2015

26 Trad 25m
15 *** Icebird

The wide crack near the left side of the wall. A great line and a great climb. Up the jugs then the awkward wide crack.

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1984

19 Trad 30m
16 ** Dirty Dancing

Crack just right of Icebird, which gets thinner and harder as you get higher and pumpder. This was John's pick of the area.

FFA: John Fantini, Phil Georgeff, 1988

24 Trad 30m
17 * Not All There

The line of carrots left of Windjammer that leads to 2 bolt lower off. Take many cams and a handful of brackets (it's mostly trad). The direct finish is 26 and is called Halfway House Extension (for some reason). The lower-off will twist the s#it out of your rope - would be nice to see it upgraded.

21 Trad 25m
18 ** Halfway House Extension / Not All There Extension

The one bolt extension to Not All There. Thin and techy.

26 Sport 22m, 7
19 *** Seamstress

Variant finish to Windjammer. Start up Windjammer, then avoid the wide crack by stepping left into the white marble seam. Very challenging trad climb both the climbing and protection.

FFA: Robert Dun, Matt Scholes (preplaced gear), 2009

26 Trad 30m
20 ** Windjammer

The right one of a trio of cracks. Ensure you place lots of good gear in the first half as some of the rock is a bit suspect.

FA: Ian Brown, Peter Blunt, 1984

FFA: Ian Brown, Bob McMillan, 1988

19 Trad 30m
21 ** The Sublime and the Ridiculous

Follows the thin, right-sloping crack on the headwall R of Windjammer. Up suspect rock to the base of the crack. Follow the bolts below the slanting crack to the top. This route has been heavily retrobolted by Blowing in the Wind! (see the notes for the extension to that route)

FFA: Ant Phren, 1989

26 Mixed 30m, 3
22 ** Blowing In The Wind

The leftmost of a trio of easier sport routes in the center of Windjammer Wall which puts about 4 retrobolts and a loweroff anchor onto The Sublime and the Ridiculous.

FA: Rick Phillips, Will Watkins, 2012

21 Sport 20m, 10
23 *** Settle Down Damo / Blowing In The Wind Extension

Two bolt extension of Blowing In The Wind to the top. Have fun with it!

FA: @timaebooth1, 2014

26 Sport 30m, 2
24 ** Shooting The Breeze

The middle of the trio. Fantastic climb; very technical and pumpy, save some gas for the top. Ringbolts.

FA: Rick Phillips, Will Watkins, 2012

22 Sport 23m, 10
25 Shooting The Breeze Extension

Some nice holds on this one following the attractive seam. Up and R from the anchors past two more ringbolts and a cam.

26 Sport 25m, 2
26 ** Drunk And Disorderly

The right of the trio. Steeper than it looks with a deceptive crux near the top. Three carrots up a slab to start, then a couple of FH's, then ringbolts. A royal sampler.

FA: Gareth Downey, Rick Phillips

19 Sport 20m
27 Off Chops / Drunk and Disorderly Extension

4 bolt project above DAD. Superb rock and thin technical climbing. Some of the best rock on the wall with small edges and pockets. Will be a contender for hardest move on the wall

FA: Will Watkins

27 Sport Project 4
28 ** Feeding Frenzy

The R-leaning shallow flake in the headwall that is L of the main overlap (Liquid Lunch). Start just to the R of the centre of Windjammer Wall beneath the flake. Climb the easy lower part of the wall (bolt) to the flake, move L near the top to finish.

FFA: Giles Bradbury, 1989

26 Mixed 30m, 3
29 * Liquid Lunch

The R-ward leaning major diagonal flake on the R side of Windjammer Wall. Start a coupe of metres R of Feeding Frenzy, about 10m below a small rooflet. Up, tending R to a U-bolt at beginning of flake, then follow the flake and crack diagonally R to the top.

FFA: Giles Bradbury

26 Mixed 30m, 1
30 ** Last Man Standing

The second line of rings left of Jaws' major corner. Five rings and several finger/hand sized cams to lower off anchors below the top of the cliff where the line joins Liquid Lunch. Connecting it into the top is a possibility at around grade 26 and has been attempted by Neil & others.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

23 Mixed 25m, 5
31 ** Hot Cross Buns

Sustained and well protected wall climbing with characteristic Point Perp buckets and horizontals. Starts 2m left of 'SS Minow' below thin crack. Face to start, then up juggy crack to unlikely wall and right leading flake. When the holds run out at 20m traverse right to join 'SS Minow' at its last BR and finish for that route. Bring a full rack with doubles in the finger/hand sizes plus a #4 camalot to protect the first 5m.

FFA: Neil Monteith

22 Mixed 20m, 1
32 ** SS Minow

Starts 5m left of the Jaws corner below the line of FHs. Up wall past three FHs then trad goodness until final climatic flake (BR). Single set of cams protects the rest. Finishes at left set of lower-offs about 4m short of the top of the wall. The single BR above is an open project.

FFA: Greg James, 2001

22 Mixed 25m, 4
33 Hate minnows

A link up for pikers. Do hate mail to last bolt, but instead head left to anchors on Ss Minnow, clipping bolt on way. Take a bolt plate.

22 Trad 20m
34 ** Hate Mail

Varied and sustained wall climbing up beautiful polished rock with the typical cruxy 'Windjammer' finish. Starts 1m left of 'Tenere' behind small tree and 2m right of 'SS Minow'. Five U-bolts and four or five good cam slots (fingers to hand size). Save a #2 Camalot for pocket in the finish moves. Lower-off anchor is 3m below the top of the cliff at large finish pocket.

FFA: Neil Monteith

24 Mixed 25m, 5
35 ** Tenere

Start in the corner as for Jaws. At the ledge climb the seam on the main (L) wall. Continue up the pumpy handcrack to top.

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1985

20 Trad 28m
36 Jaws

The obvious corner in the middle of the wall.

FFA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1984

19 Trad 32m
37 ** No Crack No Sin

Climb the face between 'Jaws' and 'Some Weird Sin'. Balance and exposed move low with tricky top section.

FA: @timaebooth1, 2015

22 Trad 25m
38 Jaws direct

Up slab right of corner, minimal gear. You can stay on slab until about 5m below top when step left to finish up jaws

FA: Ian brown

19 Trad 30m

North Wall

The central arete of Windjammer is Some Weird Sin. The following routes are right of this.

39 *** Some Weird Sin

Start on the right-hand side of the middle arete of 'Windjammer Wall' - just right of Jaws. Up the wall and then arete passing bolts and cams. Move around to the R-side of the arete after clipping final bolt. Take lots of brackets.

FFA: Mike Moore, Greg James, 1998

23 Mixed 30m, 7
40 * Red Shift

Traverse at half height from the arete of Some Weird Sin to the corner of Man Overboard.

Start: Up the initial small corner of Hungry Eyes, or continue on from Blazing Jugs.

18 Trad 35m
41 ** Hungry Eyes

Start on top of the block, at the small L-facing corner just right of Some Weird Sin. Up enjoyable jugs, passing a couple of small overlaps to base of crack. Up thin crack then into hand crack to finish.

FFA: John Fantini, Phil Georgeff, 1988

23 Trad 30m
42 ** The Omen

Great sport climbing on lovely orange rock. This is the ringbolted line right of Hungry Eyes. If you stay where the bolts are and don't sneak off right where it is easier then you don't share any climbing with Permissabilitly. Either way the last few metres are the crux! To get the full tick, climb past the double bolt anchors for one more move to the large pocket and back-jump to the anchors.

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2013

Set by Simon Vaughan, 2013

24 Sport 22m, 13
43 *** Da Omen

The one bolt extension of The Omen to enable the link into the top of Permissability. Super small pockets, just like 80s French limestone!

Set by Matt Brooks

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2013

27 Sport 30m
44 ** Permissability

The overlap right of Hungry Eyes. Awesome moves on great rock. Sustained through the top.

FFA: Duncan Hunter, 2009

27 Mixed 30m, 2
45 ** Sail the Nullabor

Ascends the centre of this piece of wall to finish either up the thin crack (better pro, but harder) or the flake to its L. Another trad masterpiece.

FFA: John Fantini, Phil Georgeff, 1988

24 Trad 30m
46 ** I Have A Dream

Start 3m L of Walk The Plank. Hard start with awkward second clip - care! Steel yourself for the top moves on the rounded flake. If Martin Luther King could dream I guess we all can...

FA:

Set by Rick Phillips, 2012

FFA: Will Watkins, 2012

25 Sport 20m, 8
47 *** Walk the Plank

This is awesome. Start below the fine crack with a bolt, 4m left of corner. Up the wall past breaks and three bolts. At third bolt head right up the double edged flake. Don't place gear behind the suss flakes if you enjoy life and are looking forward to more of it!

FA: Mark Wilson, Richard Watts, 1988

24 Mixed 30m, 3
48 * Happy Go Lucky

Start 3m L of the Man Overboard corner under the line of fixed hangers. Routefinding skills required at second bolt (!) Sustained climbing on fiddly, often sharp little holds finishing at lower-off 4m below the clifftop. Has been linked into the top flake of Walk The Plank to top out.

FA: Rick Phillips, Seb Sakowicz, 2012

23 Sport 22m, 10
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Grey Mist Wall

The cliff takes a 90 degree turn at the major corner of Man Overboard. The ever popular Grey Mist is just right of this on the well worn grey face with flake features.

49 ** Man Overboard

Start in the corner, just right of the typical abseil line. Better than it looks with varied climbing and good jamming at the top on clean rock.

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1984

16 Trad 26m
50 Night Shift

Traverse at half height from the Man Overboard corner to the arete, about half way up Full Sail.

FA: Ian Brown,Peter Blunt

19 Trad 32m
51 *** Grey Mist

Most will agree, this climb is the best easy/moderate trad route at the Point and for miles around. Gear placement is amply available and the climbing consistent at the grade. Start in the middle of the dark south-facing wall to the right of the Man Overboard corner. Follow the sinuous crack as it slowly widens to hand size.

FA: Ian Brown,Peter Blunt, 1984

17 Trad 30m
52 * Full Sail

Excellent climbing, better than it looks.

Start: The crack just L of the arete, R of Grey Mist.

  1. 23m (19) Follow the crack until it stops then up L side of arete until able to move R to scoop on nose. Up scoop to good ledge on R.

  2. 17m (17) R along ledge and up the zig zag crack with interest.

FA: Ian Brown, Peter Blunt, 1984

19 Trad 40m 2
53 ** Rock the Clock

The crack and then bolted arete to the top - the direct finish to 'Full Sail'.

Start: As for 'Full Sail', at the crack just left of the arete and to the right of 'Grey Mist'.

FA: John Fantini,Keith Bell, 1989

22 Mixed 30m, 4
54 Saving Grace

Start at a block below the middle of the wall on the right of the arete.

  1. 25m (20) Up to the ledge at 4m, then left to the loose vibrating pedestal. Step right to the thin seam/crack then up to the belay ledge as for 'Full Sail'.

  2. 17m (17) As for 'Full Sail'.

FA: Ian Brown,Peter Blunt, 1988

20 Trad 35m 2
55 Gear Shift

Traverse right from the belay of 'Night Shift' (i.e. halfway up 'Full Sail') to 'Search and Destroy'. Up this to finish.

FFA: Ian Brown, Bob McMillan, 1988

18 Trad 40m
56 Don't Rock the Block

Up past ring bolts then bypass the dodgy block on the left to gain the 'Full Sail' ledge. Finish as for 'Full Sail'.

Start: In the middle of the wall just right of 'Saving Grace'.

FA: Glenn Jones,Mike Peck,Bob McMillan

25 Trad 30m
57 Search and Destroy

The left facing corner at the right hand end of the wall.

  1. 20m Up the corner then groove to a nice ledge.

  2. 10m Originally up the wide corner at the back of the ledge but now most people prefer to climb the cracks just right of the corner.

FA: Ian Brown,Peter Blunt, 1984

18 Trad 30m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
15 to 16 Beside the Seaside Mixed 40m, 2
16 ** Man Overboard Trad 26m
17 *** Grey Mist Trad 30m
18 Blazing Jugs Trad 64m
Gear Shift Trad 40m
* Montezuma Trad 30m
* Red Shift Trad 35m
Search and Destroy Trad 30m
19 Aloha Trad 30m
** Drunk And Disorderly Sport 20m
* Full Sail Trad 40m 2
*** Icebird Trad 30m
Jaws Trad 32m
Jaws direct Trad 30m
Night Shift Trad 32m
** Windjammer Trad 30m
20 Saving Grace Trad 35m 2
** Tenere Trad 28m
21 ** Blowing In The Wind Sport 20m, 10
** Midnight Lightning Mixed 30m, 1
* Not All There Trad 25m
22 Hate minnows Trad 20m
** Hot Cross Buns Mixed 20m, 1
** Hot to Trot Sport 23m, 11
** No Crack No Sin Trad 25m
** Rock the Clock Mixed 30m, 4
** SS Minow Mixed 25m, 4
** Shooting The Breeze Sport 23m, 10
*** Turning Of The Tide Trad 30m
22 R *** Memorable Moves Trad 30m
23 ** Beef in Cider Sport 30m, 9
* Happy Go Lucky Sport 22m, 10
** Hungry Eyes Trad 30m
** Last Man Standing Mixed 25m, 5
*** Some Weird Sin Mixed 30m, 7
24 ** Barracouta Mixed 30m, 5
** Dirty Dancing Trad 30m
** Hate Mail Mixed 25m, 5
** Sail the Nullabor Trad 30m
** Sunset Boulevard Sport 30m, 10
** The Omen Sport 22m, 13
*** Walk the Plank Mixed 30m, 3
25 Don't Rock the Block Trad 30m
** I Have A Dream Sport 20m, 8
** Mr Logistics Mixed 15m, 4
*** Vertical Romance Sport 30m, 11
26 ** Feeding Frenzy Mixed 30m, 3
** Halfway House Extension Sport 22m, 7
* Liquid Lunch Mixed 30m, 1
*** Seamstress Trad 30m
*** Settle Down Damo Sport 30m, 2
Shooting The Breeze Extension Sport 25m, 2
*** Susie now Settled Trad 25m
** The Sublime and the Ridiculous Mixed 30m, 3
27 *** Da Omen Sport 30m
Off Chops Sport Project 4
** Permissability Mixed 30m, 2