Area Guide for Windjammer Wall

Mr Logistics

Awesome arete. Short, steep and sustained unlike many a point perp route.

Start: Next to 'Midnight Lightning' on left hand end of 'Ocean Boulevard'. Rap off rings at top of arete to small foot ledge. Use first ring and gear as belay.

First a trad route, never done. Then a full sport route with a flurry of ascents until the choppers swooped in. All but 2 bolts have been chopped by persons unknown in March 2013. Full trad rack now required!

FA: Bettina Fritz, Nick la bluet, Will Watkins & Rick Phillips, 2012

Midnight Lightning

Great wall route all gear bar a U bolt. With excellent arete crack finish.

Start: Center of wall

FA: John Fantini, James Hoy, 1990

Hot to Trot

Starts directly under the line of bolts, gaining in difficulty the higher you go. Solid moves at the grade protect the anchors

FA: Rick Phillips & John Lattanzio, 2012

Montezuma

The corner

Sunset boulevard

Shady, steep, all bolts and great face moves.

Start: Start on block at base of 'Montezuma' crack.

Vertical romance

Shady all day, over hanging, all bolts and crazy cool moves.

Start: Start up flake in middle of overhanging wall R of midnight lighting

Turning of the Tide

Incredible climbing up one the best arete's at Point Perp. Lots of BRs which are supplemented by occasional medium sized cams. The route was actually inadvertently retrobolted.

Start: The left arete of 'Windjammer Wall'.

Manky 8 pitch traverse.

Memorable Moves

Daunting and inspiring trad masterpiece. The first thin weakness through the upper headwall on the left side of the wall. Easily up left facing flake to start, then up juggy wall (not well protected) to final searing seam. Full trad rack from #5 cam to tiny wires.

Start: Starts 2m left of 'Icebird'.

Icebird

A great line and a great climb. Up the jugs then the awkward wide crack.

Start: The wide crack near the left side of the wall.

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1984

Halfway house extension

Extension to the line of carrots that finish at the lower offs at 3/4 height.

Start: Start right of dirty dancing

Seamstress / Windjammer left

Start: Start up windjammer. Very challenging trad climb both the climbing and protection

Windjammer

The right one of a trio of cracks.

FA: FAA, Ian Brown, Bob McMillan,

FA: Ian Brown, Peter Blunt, 1984

The Sublime and the Ridiculous

Up the wall to the to the obvious seam.

Blowing in the wind

Jug haul till final moves

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 2012

Shooting the breeze

Fantastic climb very technical and pumpy, save some gas for the top

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 2012

Drunk & Disorderly

Great climb steeper than it looks with a deceptive crux near the top

FA: Gareth Downey & Rick Phillips,

4 bolt project above drunk and disorderly. Superb rock and thin technical climbing. If you can stop and clip then you must be Adam Ondra. :-)

FA: Will Watkins,

Feeding Frenzy

A great looking wall.

Start: Start just to the right of the centre of 'Windjammer Wall'.

Liquid Lunch

Shitty lower rock up to some brutal cranks up the slanting crack

Start: Start up left of feeding frenzy

Last Man Standing

Fun enough but suffers from the worst house on the best street phenomenon. Squeezed in up the face between two crack lines. 5 rings and several finger/hand sized cams to lower off anchors below the top of the cliff where the line joins Liquid Lunch. Connecting it into the top is a CLOSED PROJECT (of Neil's) that should weigh in around 26.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

RS: Neil Monteith, 2013

Hot Cross Buns

Sustained and well protected wall climbing with characteristic Point Perp buckets and horizontals. Face to start, then up juggy crack to unlikely wall and right leading flake. When the holds run out at 20m traverse right to join 'SS Minow' at it's last BR and finish for that route. Bring a full rack with doubles in the finger/hand sizes plus a #4 camalot to protect the first 5m.

Start: Starts 2m left of 'SS Minow' below thin crack.

FA: N Monteith,

SS Minow

Starts 5m left of the Jaws corner below the line of FHs. Up wall past three FHs then trad goodness until final climatic flake (BR). Single set of cams protects the rest.

Start: Good juggy wall climbing with an exciting finish. Finishes at left set of lower-offs about 4m short of the top of the wall. The single BR above is an open project.

Hate Mail

Varied and sustained wall climbing up beautiful polished rock with the typical cruxy 'Windjammer' finish. Five u-bolts and four or five good cam slots (fingers to hand size). Save a #2 Camalot for pocket in the finish moves. Lower-off anchor is 3m below the top of the cliff at large finish pocket.

Start: Starts 1m left of 'Tenere' behind small tree and 2m right of 'SS Minow'.

Tenere

Start: Start in the corner as for jaws. At the ledge climb the seam on the main wall. Continue up through the pumpy handcrack to top.

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1985

Jaws

The obvious corner in the middle of the wall

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1984

Some Weird Sin

Up the wall and then arete passing bolts and cams.

Start: Start on the right-hand side of the middle arete of 'Windjammer Wall' - just right of Jaws.

FA: Mike Moore, Greg James, 1998

The Omen

Ring Bolts to LO on Headwall, Super awesome climbing with the crux above the last bolt.

FA: ????????????, 2013

RS: Simon Vaughan, 2013

Da Omen

The 1 bolt extension of The Omen to enable the link into the top of Permissibility. Super small pockets, just like 80s French limestone!

RS: Matt Brooks,

FA: Matt Brooks, 2013

Permissability

Awesome moves on great rock. Sustained through the top.

Start: Overlap right of Hungry Eyes

I have a dream

Start 3 mtrs left of walk the plank. Hard start with awkward 2nd clip, make sure your belayer is switched on... The top moves on the rounded flake will be nails. If Martin Luther King could dream I guess we all can...

RS: Rick Phillips, 2012

FA: Will Watkins, 2012

Walk the Plank

Up the wall past breaks and 3 bolts. At 3rd bolt head right up the double edged flake.

Start: Start below the fine crack with a bolt, 4m left of corner.

FA: Mark Wilson, Richard Watts, 1988

Happy Go Lucky

Start 3 mtrs left of corner, under the line of fixed hangers. Sustained climbing till easing at the top

FA: Rick Phillips & Seb Sakowicz, 2012

Man Overboard

Better than it looks with varied climbing and good jamming at the top on clean rock.

Start: Start in the corner, just right of the abseil line.

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1984

Grey Mist

Most will agree, this climb is the best easy/moderate trad route at the Point and for miles around. Gear placement is amply available and the climbing consistently at the grade. Follow the sinuous crack as it slowly widens to hand size.

Start: Start in the middle of the small south facing wall to the right of the 'Man Overboard' corner.

FA: Ian Brown, Peter Blunt, 1984

Full Sail

Excellent climbing, better than it looks.

Start: The crack just left of the arete right of 'Grey Mist'.

1. 23m (19) Follow the crack until it stops then up left side of arete until able to move right to scoop on nose. Up scoop to good ledge on right.

2. 17m (17) Right along ledge and up the zig zag crack with interest.

FA: Ian Brown, Peter Blunt, 1984

Rock the Clock

The crack and then arete to the top.

Start: Start as for 'Full Sail', at the crack just left of the arete and to the right of 'Grey Mist'.

FA: John Fantini, Keith Bell, 1989