Crag Guide for Point Perpendicular

Raptures of the Deep

Ascends from a ledge about 8m above the water (originaly from just above water level). A fantastic climb from a great position.

FA: Ian Brown, Peter Blunt, 1993

At the time the lighthouse keeper used this as his personal garbage dump.

FA: Adrian Kladnig, Greg James, 1992

Bird of Prey

Abseil down to double ring belay. The climbing gets harder as you progress..

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 2012

Massacre at the Discotheque

FA: Greg James, Adrian Kladnig, Captain Smeg, 1992

FA: Greg James, Adrian Kladnig, 1992

Bandit Boy

Pleasant bolted wall and arete . Start off the left hand end of the split membranes ledge. Airy and exposed moves up the wall and arete past 6 ring bolts. Belay bolts at top.

FA: Will Watkins, Jake Noblet, 2013

The major notch between Cannon Fodder and Horn Blown. Rap from 2 carrot bolts (bolts are to the left of the notch) to a large hidden ledge 10m down. Up the corner / chimney to the top. Good cam protection.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta,

Boat People

The bolt line right of Werner Berner. Absail in to the recessed ledge off two carrot bolts clipping the last two draws to get to the ledge. Two ring bolt belay. Climb powerfully on good holds off the ledge onto a pumpy overhanging face. Overcome a couple of tricky sections to finish with the crux passing the last bolt.

FA: Will Watkins, Rick fillips, 2012

Welcome to the Asylum

Start off ledge and climb steeply up jugs and some realy cool moves. Top out and belay from two carrot bolts.

FA: Will Watkins, Tom Benefer, 2012

Werner Burner

Ascends the face right of Horn Blown. There is a diagonal crack on the cliff top right of a small bush. This is Horn Blown. Locate 2 carrot bolts at the top and rap down Horn Blown to a ledge. The wall is overhanging so clip a couple of the bolts on the way down to avoid being stranded in space. There is a 2 carrot bolt belay at the ledge. Left and up past 7 ring bolts. The bolts can be supplemented with cams.

FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun,

The face left of Blown Horn. Locate the bolts at the top and rap down to the big belay ledge at the start of Hornblower?s second pitch. Either clip the first bolt on the way down, or set up a belay in the horizontal break using cams (around size ½-2). Left and up past 4 ring bolts.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta,

A more direct finish to the second pitch of Horn Blower. Head up the easy ramp and climb the first crack instead of the second.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun,

The Gap of Rohan

Climb the undercut nose on reasonable pro - mainly cams. At 10m from the top pro thins. Take cams to 3.5 and tricams. This was named after the movie, NOT the first assensionists.

FA: Rohan Kilham & Rob Nicol,

Rohanda

1. 25m (16)

2. 15m (16)

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1985

Starboard Tack

Climb the 'Landlubber' crack for 7m, moving right below the small roof. Climb over or around the flake and follow the rightwards groove to the top.

Start: As for 'Landlubber'

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1986

Landlubber

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1986

Double Digit Inflammation

Mono action near the top!

FA: Ivan Valenta, Vince Valenta,

FA: Roy Fryer, Werner Steyer, Bob McMillan, 1988

Aeolus

FA: Ian Brown, Peter Blunt, 1985

Cast Adrift

in the middle of wall you rap down 5 mtrs right of over the yard arm slab, thru roof (crux) rest in middle of easier climbing on cams and bolts to a tough finish

FA: Rod Young, Carlie Happ, 1998

Reach around

Start up dry reaching and once you pull the lip trend left, following the fixed hangers.

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 2012

Over the Yardarm

FA: Ian Brown, Peter Blunt, 1986

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1986

Wallace & Grommet

Rap down the corner to the double rings and traverse right to the orange wall and up some of the best rock at the point

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 2012

E=Mc2

Rap to a hanging belay off bolts, comfy harness required... Climb back up on the holds you can see but actually are not there!! Stella position to overcome any exposure problems

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 2012

The short arête between Lemon Sorbet and Face De Rat. Good for a photo. Rap down to a 2 carrot bolt belay on foot ledge. Climb the balancy arête passing 3 ring bolts. There is a belay carrot bolt at the top.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta,

The arête of the Face De Rat wall. Rap down to a 2 carrot bolt belay on foot ledge (if you traverse right from this belay you can also climb the crack part of Psychic Aberration). Climb the arête and wall with medium cam breaks and wires. There is a belay carrot bolt at the top.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta / Jane Montgomery,

The broken cracks in the slabby wall 2m right of Cripple Crack. Sandy rock.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Jane Montgomery / Robert Dun,

Batten The Hatches

1 FH and 3 rings up overhanging wall L of Cut And Thrust

The steep wall between Wobbegong Wobbles and the arête. Up past 3 bolts. There is a belay bolt at the top.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun,

The arête next to Amusement Value. Start up amusement value until small ledge. Step right and continue up the arête passing 4 bolts. Belay bolt at top. The start has some poor rock.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun,

Flotsam

Clean hand crack on the east side of T Shirt 'Gully' - on the orange wall right of the huge jutting roof. Abseil to small ledge to avoid the sand at its base.

FA: Bob McMillan, Ian Brown, 2000

Superstylin

underneath the big cave before you hit T shirt Gully. Not obvious at first.

Bridges up between the big blocks on the west side of T Shirt Gully. Start up the south side of the blocks and step left when it becomes too wide to bridge.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun,

The wide corner crack on the right side of Teeshirt

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta,

The obvious large diagonal crack on the western side of 'Teeshirt' 'Gully'

Start: Abseil in to the large ledge at the base of the crack

FA: Bob McMillan, Glenn Jones, 2000

The corner between Thongs and Boardshorts

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun,

Follows the flaking ramp left of Boardshorts

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun,

Room with a View

FA: Glen Jones, Bob McMillan, 1988

The left most route on this small wall, a metre left of Slash. Straight up on nice rock with good gear.

FA: Robert Dun, 2010

The obvious right leaning crack. Well protected on good rock.

FA: Werner Steyer, 2010

Climb slash for a couple of moves and traverse right over the undercut. then straight up to the thin crack near the top.

FA: Ivan Valenta, 2010

Second Degree Burn

Direct start to Burn. Climbed just after the tree blew away. Jump start onto shelf stand up, place some gear and continue into Burn.

FA: Gavin Phillips, 2011

The overhanging arete with a rooflet on the left side. Start at the blocks on the ledge. Climb the right side of the arete.

FA: Robert Dun, Ivan Valenta, 2010

The Gap of Rohan

FA: Rohan Kilham & Rob Nicol,

Ascends the short face half a metre right of the western fence. Abseil down either side of the fence to a sloping ledge, use the abseil rope as a belay. The line goes up the flake passing a bolt at the top.

FA: Werner Steyer / Robert Dun, 2003

Superliner

The first arête right of the lighthouse fence. Excellent protection. Find the 2 carrot bolts at the top and abseil down the middle of the face until you reach a small ledge about 5 metres above the half way ledge. There is a 2 carrot bolt belay at this ledge. Climb the arête past cam breaks and 7 carrot bolts. Go left around the arête at the difficult sections near the bottom and top. Clip the last bolt from around the arête. Take a long sling for the thread runner near the top.

FA: , 2003

Up groove passing carrots.

Nice wall take lots of small cams and wires.

Double carrot belay

Start: Start on Halfway ledge as for 'Coleridge'

FA: G. James, P. Bridges, 1998

Many cams!

Up white corner grove to block, step right. Continue crack to the right end of a big roof. Step right and up to break, up then left to big orange headwall.

Start: Same as for banksia and coleridge.

FA: Ian Brown, Tom Williams, 1988

Start: Start on same ledge.

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1988

The broken twin cracks 2m left of Hollywood Boulevard. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge. Step left and up the cracks with good protection.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun,

There is a west facing orange wall about 10m right of Coleridge. Hollywood Boulevard is the corner crack at the left side of this wall. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge. Up the corner cracks.

FA: , 2002

Battle Cruiser

A nice clean crack with excellent easy to place protection. The next corner crack right of Hollywood Boulevard. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge (as per Hollywood Boulevard). Walk around the corner (stay on the abseil rope) and set up a belay. Up the corner crack.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta,

Seahawk

Big, steep and on excellent rock for most of the way. The lower pitches start at sea level and feature amazing orange smooth rock. The upper easy pitch is a great single pitch in its own right with a variety of rock types (from smooth, to pocketed to slightly chossy). You can link pitch 1 & 2 together for one massive 50m pitch (as was done on the first ascent).

1. 37m (25) Start up All Guns Blazing for four bolts then take the left line up the steep imposing wall. Crank endlessly to tiny ledge and double ring belay. You can link this with next pitch if you have the guns and draws.

2. 12m (25) Bouldery moves up and right on delicious smooth rock to more major ledge.

3. 35m (20) Carefully up the brittle undercut start then marhy up and slightly right through band after band of different rock types. This pitch is quite overhung but juggy most of the way.

FA: Matt Brooks (p 1 & 2), Neil Monteith (p3), 2013

All Guns Blazing

Multipitch sport route straight up the guts of the biggest and steepest section of Point Perp. Very sustained climbing on immaculate rock. The first pitch especially is an absolute stunner. It's 90m direct to sea level via free hanging abseil - a 100m rope, or two 50m tied together makes rap access easy (knot change required if using two 50m). Otherwise - fix a 50m rap rope and clip into bolts on the way down to the belay ledge at end of pitch 1. Then use a 70m rope doubled to make it to sea level. Don't attempt the lower pitches if the surf is up!

1. 36m (23) Unrelenting pumper. Starts from sea level at left end of massive steep wall - starting off rock platform. Easy start up jugs to meet right end of rooflet at 10m. Now plow direct up the overhung wall above on mostly big jugs. They won't feel like jugs by the time you finish though! Finish with a spicy runout to small ledge on the left (bring a single bolt plate for this belay). Alternativly continue into 2nd pitch (50m pitch!) 10+ bolts in this pitch.

2. 14m (24) A bouldery little number. Out right from the ledge and over tricky bulge (random FHs) and rightwards on great glossy rock to next ledge and bolt belay. 4 bolts.

3. 36m (23) Undercut start to (shock horror) short bolted corner crack. When this ends pick your way up pumpy pocketed headwall until blistering crimpy crux at smooth orange section. Finish up long section of large sandy pockets. Retire. 13 bolts.

RS: Neil Monteith,

FA: Neil Monteith (p1 & 3) & Matt Brooks (p2), 2013

Atmosfear

Continous steep climbing on mostly big holds. Currently the right most line of bolts on the lower wall. Easy start up jugs then the angle starts to steepen and the holds get smaller. Keep fighting through a pumpy section to jugs. Finish up superb polished rock heading slightly left to double rings on ledge below top pitch of All Guns Blazing.

FA: Neil Monteith, Matt Brooks, 2013

Atmospheric. The next crack left of Voyager. Rap down Voyager and set up a belay on the step about 1m below the main ledge, use the rap rope to backup the belay. Traverse left along the break and up the crack. Good protection once you are in the crack.

FA: , 2003

On February 10th 1964 the navy destroyer Voyager was sunk off Jervis Bay when it collided with the aircraft carrier Melbourne. 82 men died in the incident. Left of Centurion is a section of vertical plates jutting out. After this section there is a small embayment. Left of the embayment there are a couple of cracks in the cliff top. The Right crack is Voyager and the Left crack is Destroyer. Find the 2 carrot bolts at the top and Abseil down the line to a good ledge in an embayment. Up the left corner crack.

FA: Robert Dun / James Hardy,

Put up the weekend of the Bathurst car races, and named accordingly to annoy James. Abseil down and set up a belay in Voyager. Step right and head up the right corner crack. The crack is fused at the top. Put up the weekend of the Bathurst car races, and named accordingly to annoy James. Abseil down and set up a belay in Voyager. Step right and head up the right corner crack. The crack is fused at the top.

FA: , 2002

Left of Centurion is a section of vertical plates jutting out. After this section there is a small embayment. Typhoon is the crack in the right corner of the embayment. Abseil down the middle of the embayment until you get to a small ledge with a 2 carrot bolt belay. The belay is at the base of a seam in the slabby wall. Start up the slabby wall past 2 carrot bolts trending right. Then up the right corner crack.

FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun, 2003

Exposed - Travers left near arete past bolt, up past more.

Start: Same belay as 'Centurian'

FA: Greg James, Steve Burns, 2000

Centurian

Left hand edge of ledge, up corner.

Start: Same start as RIR

FA: Ian Brown, Bob McMillan, 1989

Up wall past bolts and small cam placements on sharp holds.

Start: 'Centurian' ledge

FA: Greg James, Steve Burns, Escaba, 2000

Impact Zone

Up the corner crack.

Same belay as WCF.

Women and Children First

FA: Ian Brown, Bob McMillan, 1989

Delusions of Grandeur

Overhung and very very exposed - even for Point Perp standards. This is a mixed route - only 3 bolts in the lower half - the rest is cams in horizontals - try not to pump off placing them! Rap in down the finish corner of Women and Children first - clipping into gear/bolts on the way down to stay connected to the rock to ridiculous hanging belay on lip of roof. Climb up and right through short chossy section to rooflet, over this (reachy) then straight up face and steepness above. Cams from finger to wide fist size required.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

Titan I Am

The Point's first route bolted with titanium. Rap from carrots to reach semi-hanging belay with foot ledge (double rings). Long, pumpy and well-protected climbing with 10 bolts and one or two obvious medium cam placements, or run it out.

FA: Lee Cujes, Sam Cujes, 2013

Rap in to find two hard-to-see carrots placed directly into a horizontal ledge. Climb up past U bolts and one or two cams.

Whale order bride

Rap off carrots located in middle of embankment, to two carrots located at good stance 15 mtrs down. Climbing line of bolts to the right hand line of rings

FA: Will Watkins & Nick le Frenchie, 2012

Steep wall 2m left of arete with not a lot of pro.

Start: Left side of arete, exposed stance.

FA: Roy Fryer, Owen McMahon, Cerin McMillan., 2000

Little Red Riding Hood

Traverse out right and up, aiming for the nose. Up this to the top. There is one carrot at the fairly blank section on the arete. Double carrot belay on top.

Start: Rap into the embayment just to the right of the lowest point in the lighthouse fence.

FA: Steve Burns, Greg James, Bede Harrington, 2000

The major crack line between When the Levee Breaks and Red Riding Hood. Start as for Red Riding Hood. Follow the hairline crack up the wall until the ledge. Climb the short pedestal and move right into the crack. Up the crack passing two bolts (on the right of the crack).

FA: Greg James,

When the Levee Breaks

Start just right of LRRH. Up the line with four brackets and pockets for cams.

FA: Greg James, 2000

Big Bad Wolf

Starts under the line of rings 3m left of "When the Levee Breaks". Hard crux and will be desperate if you are a little short.

FA: Will Watkins, 2012

Spiders And Space Cadets

The corner between Proudly Penguin and When the Levee Breaks. Bridge up the corner and chimney with good protection. Take a sling for the big thread near the top.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Jane Montgomery,

Proudly Penguin

Start: Start 2m right of corner. Up wall to flake then bolt to top. Watch the runouts!

FA: Neil Plant, Robyn Cleland, 2000

Destructive Wombats

Start: Start 4m right of corner. Straight up the wall past many cam placements and a BOMBER sling at half height!

Thin flake with 3 FHs right of Destructive Wombats.

The broken crack line left of Fat Man's Misery and R of Destructive Wombats. Rap down to the big ledge. Climb the right curving flake to a ledge. Either belay on the ledge or continue up the crack in one pitch.

FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun,

The wide crack / chimney left of the Krill a Whale buttress. Rap down to the big ledge. Climb the right curving flake to a ledge. Either belay on the ledge or continue up the crack in one pitch.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta,

Start down to the left of the arete.

Hooray for Hippies

Best to rap off carrots for Sieze The Day access, and stop on good size ledge (enough for 3) belay off two rings, start looks intimidating but its fairly easy crux at mid height and the very top

FA: Rick, Paul, Gilles, Big G & Jonesy, 2012

The wide crack / chimney right of the Krill-a-Whale buttress. Rap down the line to a 2 carrot bolt belay at a small ledge halfway down the left wall. Up the line passing two carrot bolts on the wide part at the top.

FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun,

FA: Greg James,

Sieze The Day

Rap off carrots, clipping some bolts on way down otherwise your stranded in space. Belay off double rings at small stance..Climbs switches on at halfway mark, if you don't like mono's you won't like this

FA: Rick Phillips & Paul Devine, 2012

Line of ringbolts left of the Mister Bean arete. Abseil down to small ledge with 2 glue-in carrot bolts as belay. Up past 4 rings and a mid-sized cam.

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, Chris Trengove, 2007

Mister Bean

Clip first bolt of FL, then make way to arete passing another bolt. Follow arete passing 8 more bolts with one hidden around the left. Apparently grade 26 if you don't use the holds on the left of arete (but given one of the bolts is around there... :).

FA: Greg James, 2000

Fuzzy Logic

Climb off the block staying out of the corner passing a few FHs and many medium cams. Is slightly run out at the top, but is easier and you can put in some big cams if you really want.

Start: Rap in to an exposed triangular block with 2 FH for belay.

FA: Greg JAmes, 2000

Neptune

FA: Werner Steyer / Robert Dun / Kate Wright, 2004

Ring bolts a couple of metres right of Neptune.

FFA: Mike,

Unorthodox Liasons

Climb direct up the wall to the left of the arete past 5 ring bolts. Challenging moves low down leads to pleasant upper section.

FA: Will Watkins, Rick fatty fillips, 2012

Liquid Insanity Direct Finish

Start: As for 'Liquid Insanity' but dont traverse back right, continue up arete.

FA: Greg James, Adrian Kladnig, 2000

Liquid Insanity

Up corner, then left passing bolts to arete, up arete with cams. Near top, traverse back right and up final bolt line.

Start: Start as for 'Liquid Daze'

FA: Greg James, Adrian Kladnig, 1992

Liquid Daze

Up small corner (bolt) to wall, then tending right slightly past more bolts.

Named in honour of the second who had a hangover and had recently been listening to a Philip Glass song "Liquid Days"

FA: Greg James, Adrian Kladnig, 1992

Line of carrot bolts to the right of Liquid Daze. Great moves on great rock. Starts off the vegitated block ledge.

FA: R.Dunn, Matt Scoles, 2006

FA: Phil Georgeff, 1998

FA: Phil Georgeff, 1988

We Are Amphibious

FA: Neil Monteith & Chris Trengove, 2007

Rex Hunt's Love Child

A super classic - and probably the best route around this grade on the sea cliffs. Do it!

Start: Abseil in from carrot and cams for backup. Start on the left hand side of the wall below the rings. Take some trad gear as well to supplement the bolts.

FA: Greg James, 2000

Northern Exposure

Start: 2m right of RHLC. Straight up the wall - small to medium cams help in the middle.

FA: Greg James, 2000

Bad Luck Streak

Start: Start at the thin crack. Climb the thin crack until it ends at half height, step left to continue crack and up into the jams to top.

FA: Joe Lynch Mike Law-Smith Phil Georgeff, 1988

Eviction Order

Low in the grade. Great climbing past 3 fixed brackets to a hard techy finnish on edges and monos.

FFA: R Sonnerdale,

Not in current guidebook but it was there last time I was. --Lee.

Bolted seam.

2m R.

FA: Zac Vertress,

Bolts, but marked with trad symbol in the guide. Is there any gear on this?

The Whip

Start as for mind the gap. After placing cam in big pocket, traverse right past one ring bolt to the arete (cams in pocket and in flakes- make sure you have a #2 C3 to protect final crux). Enjoy the view then punch up the arete. Great exposure!

FA: George Broadfoot, 2013

Mind the Gap

Great position and cool climbing.

Mr Logistics

Awesome arete. Short, steep and sustained unlike many a point perp route.

Start: Next to 'Midnight Lightning' on left hand end of 'Ocean Boulevard'. Rap off rings at top of arete to small foot ledge. Use first ring and gear as belay.

First a trad route, never done. Then a full sport route with a flurry of ascents until the choppers swooped in. All but 2 bolts have been chopped by persons unknown in March 2013. Full trad rack now required!

FA: Bettina Fritz, Nick la bluet, Will Watkins & Rick Phillips, 2012

Midnight Lightning

Great wall route all gear bar a U bolt. With excellent arete crack finish.

Start: Center of wall

FA: John Fantini, James Hoy, 1990

Hot to Trot

Starts directly under the line of bolts, gaining in difficulty the higher you go. Solid moves at the grade protect the anchors

FA: Rick Phillips & John Lattanzio, 2012

Montezuma

The corner

Sunset boulevard

Shady, steep, all bolts and great face moves.

Start: Start on block at base of 'Montezuma' crack.

Vertical romance

Shady all day, over hanging, all bolts and crazy cool moves.

Start: Start up flake in middle of overhanging wall R of midnight lighting

Turning of the Tide

Incredible climbing up one the best arete's at Point Perp. Lots of BRs which are supplemented by occasional medium sized cams. The route was actually inadvertently retrobolted.

Start: The left arete of 'Windjammer Wall'.

Manky 8 pitch traverse.

Memorable Moves

Daunting and inspiring trad masterpiece. The first thin weakness through the upper headwall on the left side of the wall. Easily up left facing flake to start, then up juggy wall (not well protected) to final searing seam. Full trad rack from #5 cam to tiny wires.

Start: Starts 2m left of 'Icebird'.

Icebird

A great line and a great climb. Up the jugs then the awkward wide crack.

Start: The wide crack near the left side of the wall.

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1984

Halfway house extension

Extension to the line of carrots that finish at the lower offs at 3/4 height.

Start: Start right of dirty dancing

Seamstress / Windjammer left

Start: Start up windjammer. Very challenging trad climb both the climbing and protection

Windjammer

The right one of a trio of cracks.

FA: FAA, Ian Brown, Bob McMillan,

FA: Ian Brown, Peter Blunt, 1984

The Sublime and the Ridiculous

Up the wall to the to the obvious seam.

Blowing in the wind

Jug haul till final moves

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 2012

Shooting the breeze

Fantastic climb very technical and pumpy, save some gas for the top

FA: Rick Phillips & Will Watkins, 2012

Drunk & Disorderly

Great climb steeper than it looks with a deceptive crux near the top

FA: Gareth Downey & Rick Phillips,

4 bolt project above drunk and disorderly. Superb rock and thin technical climbing. If you can stop and clip then you must be Adam Ondra. :-)

FA: Will Watkins,

Feeding Frenzy

A great looking wall.

Start: Start just to the right of the centre of 'Windjammer Wall'.

Liquid Lunch

Shitty lower rock up to some brutal cranks up the slanting crack

Start: Start up left of feeding frenzy

Last Man Standing

Fun enough but suffers from the worst house on the best street phenomenon. Squeezed in up the face between two crack lines. 5 rings and several finger/hand sized cams to lower off anchors below the top of the cliff where the line joins Liquid Lunch. Connecting it into the top is a CLOSED PROJECT (of Neil's) that should weigh in around 26.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

RS: Neil Monteith, 2013

Hot Cross Buns

Sustained and well protected wall climbing with characteristic Point Perp buckets and horizontals. Face to start, then up juggy crack to unlikely wall and right leading flake. When the holds run out at 20m traverse right to join 'SS Minow' at it's last BR and finish for that route. Bring a full rack with doubles in the finger/hand sizes plus a #4 camalot to protect the first 5m.

Start: Starts 2m left of 'SS Minow' below thin crack.

FA: N Monteith,

SS Minow

Starts 5m left of the Jaws corner below the line of FHs. Up wall past three FHs then trad goodness until final climatic flake (BR). Single set of cams protects the rest.

Start: Good juggy wall climbing with an exciting finish. Finishes at left set of lower-offs about 4m short of the top of the wall. The single BR above is an open project.

Hate Mail

Varied and sustained wall climbing up beautiful polished rock with the typical cruxy 'Windjammer' finish. Five u-bolts and four or five good cam slots (fingers to hand size). Save a #2 Camalot for pocket in the finish moves. Lower-off anchor is 3m below the top of the cliff at large finish pocket.

Start: Starts 1m left of 'Tenere' behind small tree and 2m right of 'SS Minow'.

Tenere

Start: Start in the corner as for jaws. At the ledge climb the seam on the main wall. Continue up through the pumpy handcrack to top.

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1985

Jaws

The obvious corner in the middle of the wall

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1984

Some Weird Sin

Up the wall and then arete passing bolts and cams.

Start: Start on the right-hand side of the middle arete of 'Windjammer Wall' - just right of Jaws.

FA: Mike Moore, Greg James, 1998

The Omen

Ring Bolts to LO on Headwall, Super awesome climbing with the crux above the last bolt.

FA: ????????????, 2013

RS: Simon Vaughan, 2013

Da Omen

The 1 bolt extension of The Omen to enable the link into the top of Permissibility. Super small pockets, just like 80s French limestone!

RS: Matt Brooks,

FA: Matt Brooks, 2013

Permissability

Awesome moves on great rock. Sustained through the top.

Start: Overlap right of Hungry Eyes

I have a dream

Start 3 mtrs left of walk the plank. Hard start with awkward 2nd clip, make sure your belayer is switched on... The top moves on the rounded flake will be nails. If Martin Luther King could dream I guess we all can...

RS: Rick Phillips, 2012

FA: Will Watkins, 2012

Walk the Plank

Up the wall past breaks and 3 bolts. At 3rd bolt head right up the double edged flake.

Start: Start below the fine crack with a bolt, 4m left of corner.

FA: Mark Wilson, Richard Watts, 1988

Happy Go Lucky

Start 3 mtrs left of corner, under the line of fixed hangers. Sustained climbing till easing at the top

FA: Rick Phillips & Seb Sakowicz, 2012