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Multipitch sport route straight up the guts of the biggest and steepest section of Point Perp. Very sustained climbing on immaculate rock. The first pitch especially is an absolute stunner. It's 90m direct to sea level via free hanging abseil - a 100m rope, or two 50m tied together makes rap access easy (knot change required if using two 50m). Otherwise - fix a 50m rap rope and clip into bolts on the way down to the belay ledge at end of pitch 1. Then use a 70m rope doubled to make it to sea level. Don't attempt the lower pitches if the surf is up!

  1. 36m (23) Unrelenting pumper. Starts from sea level at left end of massive steep wall - starting off rock platform. Easy start up jugs to meet right end of rooflet at 10m. Now plow direct up the overhung wall above on mostly big jugs. They won't feel like jugs by the time you finish though! Finish with a spicy runout to small ledge on the left (bring a single bolt plate for this belay). Alternativly continue into 2nd pitch (50m pitch!) 10+ bolts in this pitch.

  2. 14m (24) A bouldery little number. Out right from the ledge and over tricky bulge (random FHs) and rightwards on great glossy rock to next ledge and bolt belay. 4 bolts.

  3. 36m (23) Undercut start to (shock horror) short bolted corner crack. When this ends pick your way up pumpy pocketed headwall until blistering crimpy crux at smooth orange section. Finish up long section of large sandy pockets. Retire. 13 bolts.

Ethic: inherited from Point Perpendicular

Point Perp is predominantly a trad crag. There has been more bolting recently but this is a particularly contentious topic. A lot of the bolts are the traditional Aussie carrot and it would be a good idea to have at least half a dozen keyhole hangers before going to the Point for the first time.


Route History:

  • Route Setter: Neil Monteith

  • First Ascent: Neil Monteith (p1, 3) & Matt Brooks (p2), 2013


Located in Lighthouse Lower approx:
Long/Lat: 150.805079,-35.094261

Route Grade Citations

24 Community registered grade
23, 24, 23

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 83%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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