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Description

This is a great little crag situated on the Hawksbury river about 3km from the small town of spencer. It is mainly ring bolted sport climbs with one or two mixed routes thrown in. It can get a little hot in summer as it faces west. It gets full afternoon sun which makes it ideal for a winters afternoon.

Access issues

Head off the freeway towards Petes Ridge along Petes Ridge Road. Follow the signs to Wisemens Ferry heading along past upper mangrove and down the valley towards the river. Once you are driving along the river head aproximatly another 10km along till you reach Popran Rd, This is the first road (it's still a dirt one though) that appaers on your left after you have come down the hill. Keep follwoing this road past a caravan park, keep heading straight and down past a small creek and the Narcnon centre, over hommy Creek and afer going around a sharp right hand turn there should be a grass clearing on the right hand side of the road. The cliff is straight up the hill!!

Routes

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Grade Route
1
19 Shrapnel Unknown 20m

Trad

FA: Jas Piper

2
17 Shedding skin Unknown 20m

FA: Chris Fox, 2006

3
19 The Life of Bwian Unknown 20m

FA: Jason Piper, 2006

4
23 The knights of Ni Sport 20m

right end of main wall, up next to crack with chockstones and trending left through tricky roof to headwall

5
23 * Right ward route ? name Unknown 25m
6

FA: Chris Fox, 2006

7
25 * My mind is my monster Unknown 25m

Mixed bolts and gear, ends at same anchors as Mr Creosote

FA: Jason Piper

8
24 * Ophidiophobia Sport 26m, 9

Slab to the right of green slugs. Finish on anchors of Mr Creasote.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2007

9
19 * Little green slugs Sport 42m

The main arete you come to from the walking trail. P2, Up the slab/arete to chains. P2, contine up through the small roof to top out, anchors back a few metres from edge.

FA: Corey Sawyer

10
17 Ethel the aardvark Sport 15m

the left side of the arete to LGS. Climbs quite differently, then share final 2 bolts to anchor of MOL

11
25 Meaning of Life Sport 20m, 8

Start up meaning of Liff, then continue out roof past 2 more bolts to top out. Back jump to clean.

FA: Jason Piper, 2006

12
17 The Meaning of Liff Sport 45m

Starting in the corner left of Green slugs. Up wall to lower off under roof. P2, continue up wall to the right to top out.

FA: Jason Piper, 2006

13
21 ** Flying Circus Unknown 20m
14
20 Monty Unknown 30m
15
21 * scales Unknown 8m

Scary Second pitch/extension to Flying circus .

Plug 1 and 1.5 friend in pockets to right then launch out roof on OK but thin holds and iffy mantle to tree. Carefull off the flakes on the mantle. lower to pythons anchor. Falling will hurt, would be 2* with bolts.

16
22 ** Vertical Python Unknown 24m

FA: 2004

17
22 *** Snake Eyes Sport 24m, 8

Climbs the face just right of the steep wall. Up slab trending right at halfway then delicatly up the steepening wall to top.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2006

18
25 *** 97% Mitch Free Sport 24m, 7

The right side of the steep wall. Up face/slab past 2 bolts to slopey moves to get onto head wall.

FA: Tim Haasnoot

19
27 *** The Extra 3% Sport 24m, 8

Climb 97% mitch free, but move left to the small cave on the steep wall. Head straight up from here to lower offs at very top!

FA: Jason Piper

20
25 *** Rehabilitation Sport 24m, 8

Start as for 97% Mitch Free, but head out the roof through the mono pocket, then countine up the arching overhanging crack to lower off 97%.

FA: Jason Piper

21
27 ** Sir Serpent Sport 30m

FA: Jason Piper

22
22 * Smoke me a kipper Unknown 40m

3 pitch Odyssey. Pitch 1: 15m grade 10 easy climbing to good belay. pitch 2 15m grade 15 traverse (very 'airy') to chain. Pitch 3, LH 2 finger pocket and RH slot, up headwall LH smooth sloper, then to 2 finger pocket (crux) match to RH 2 finger pocket. Big LH move to Jug, then techo jug moves to desperate top out finished with customary unclip and launch into thin air!

FA: Chris Fox

23
25 ** Snake Skin Boots Sport 20m

FA: Matt Pascoe

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
Leech Bar Area
3
4
24m

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