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Description

A small zawn with easy access. Most climbs are top rope though there are several bolted routes. You'll still need to bring some bolt plates for the anchors at the top. Some moderate graded routes for beginners. Numbers refer to the top rope bolt station when this is still the best anchor. Climbs described from access ramp clockwise.

Approach

From Anna Bay drive turn down Morna Point road and at the coast turn left into Iris Moore Park. Walk north east for 40 seconds and you are at the top of the crag.

© (vlw)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
1 Access ramp / no 1 Top rope 8m
2
20 to 22 * First Buttress 1a / No.2 Unknown 8m

Commence at base of slab. Straight up the blunt arete split by a thin crack with increasing difficulty.

3
19 1b Unknown 8m

Start as for 1a but at about half height traverse right and then up easier line

4
17 1c Unknown 8m

Up left of the basalt seam on the orange rock. Do not climb the basalt as it will crumble and kill your belayer.

5
14 Basalt Top rope 13m

The dangerous basalt chimney. Not recommended.

6
24 * The Dead Albatross Sport 14m, 5

The blunt arete on bolts to the right of the basalt seam. Undercut start. Need nonPFH bolt plates and 2 cams for anchor + 1 FH

Set by Vanessa Wills

7
20 * Bicycle graveyard Sport 17m

The crack with the undercut start. Boulder in from right. Rock a little friable in crack, and tends to seep. Straight up crack, veering left and then back at top. Can be led on bolts from 'Petes route' which heads right, and cams at top, but has DBB straight above for easy Top rope.

Set by Pete Morris

8

Start as for bicycle graveyard - up crack- but head right at the top following bolts

FA: P Morris

9
25 to 26 ** Wilde Times Trad 20m

Up corner to roof. From roof head out left on U bolts to shared anchor with Pete's route, may need some small cams after the roof to avoid a bad fall.

10
22 * Cracked It Trad 14m

Up corner to roof then step right and continue up crack to top out. Bolts on block above. Often wet under roof.

Set by John Wilde, 1998

11
20 * Cocky Monkey Sport 18m, 4

Follow U bolts just to right of trad climb up slightly overhung wall. Bolts spaced so be careful off ledge.

FA: Peter Morris, 2004

12
22 Wabbits Sport 17m, 6

To right of Cocky Monkey. Follow carrots up hand crack and over roof to last RB on CM and up to anchors. PFH 45 degree plates dont fit.

FA: V Wills, 2000

13
21 * Animal experiments Sport 20m, 5

Up narrow corner to letterbox hold in small roof. Cams help supplement the lower two bolts. Step around roof onto face and into finger crack, then thin past bolts. Traverse a short distance right to DBB (as for next two routes)

FA: V Wills, 2004

14
20 5 / No.8 Top rope 11m

Up to ledge then up face- many variants, difficulty increases away from corner

15
18 to 19 Corner flake / No.9 Top rope 10m

Up to ledge and into corner/flake. Take care with flake, these features have a habit of breaking of without warning

16
24 6a Unknown 10m

From ledge head straight up on layaway to pockets and then crimps and long moves to top

Start: Middle of wall to ledge

17
16 6b / No.10 Unknown 10m

From ledge traverse right 1.5m and then up on good holds to undercling and top

Start: As for 6a

18
15 No. 7 / 11 Top rope 14m

Up wide chimney near tide line, on often wet holds, taking care of block near top

19
13 No.12 / 12 Unknown 14m