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A small zawn with easy access. Most climbs are top rope though there are several bolted routes. You'll still need to bring some bolt plates for the anchors at the top. Some moderate graded routes for beginners. Numbers refer to the top rope bolt station when this is still the best anchor. Climbs described from access ramp clockwise. A couple of routes are bolted requiring hangers. Best to rap down and place these especially dead albatross, which needs a 0.75 cam still to back up old bolt for anchor.

Access issues

Theheavy rains in 2015 have caused some instability with several blocks having fallen. Be very careful of trusting any block. A refrigerator size block has fallen off between wabbits and animal experiments


From Anna Bay drive turn down Morna Point road and at the coast turn left into Iris Moore Park. Walk north east for 40 seconds and you are at the top of the crag.

© (vlw)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Commence at base of slab. Straight up the blunt arete split by a thin crack with increasing difficulty.

Start as for 1a but at about half height traverse right and then up easier line

Up left of the basalt seam on the orange rock. Do not climb the basalt as it will crumble and kill your belayer.

The dangerous basalt chimney. Not recommended.

The blunt arete on bolts to the right of the basalt seam. Undercut start. Need nonPFH bolt plates and 2 cams for anchor + 1 FH

Set by Vanessa Wills

The crack with the undercut start. Boulder in from right. Rock a little friable in crack, and tends to seep. Straight up crack, veering left and then back at top. Can be led on bolts from 'Petes route' which heads right, and cams at top, but has DBB straight above for easy Top rope.

Set by Pete Morris

Start as for bicycle graveyard - up crack- but head right at the top following bolts

FA: P Morris

Up corner to roof. From roof head out left on U bolts to shared anchor with Pete's route, may need some small cams after the roof to avoid a bad fall.

Up corner to roof then step right and continue up crack to top out. Bolts on block above. Often wet under roof.

Set by John Wilde, 1998

Follow U bolts just to right of trad climb up slightly overhung wall. Bolts spaced so be careful off ledge.

FA: Peter Morris, 2004

To right of Cocky Monkey. Follow carrots up hand crack and over roof to last RB on CM and up to anchors. PFH 45 degree plates dont fit.. Refrigerator size block has come off to the right of the bolts in mid 2015. Likely to have more loose blocks.

FA: V Wills, 2000

Up narrow corner to letterbox hold in small roof. Cams help supplement the lower two bolts. Step around roof onto face and into finger crack, then thin past bolts. Traverse a short distance right to DBB (as for next two routes) a large refrigerator size block has come off to the left of this route in mid 2015.

FA: V Wills, 2004

Up to ledge then up face- many variants, difficulty increases away from corner

Up to ledge and into corner/flake. Take care with flake, these features have a habit of breaking of without warning

From ledge head straight up on layaway to pockets and then crimps and long moves to top

Start: Middle of wall to ledge

From ledge traverse right 1.5m and then up on good holds to undercling and top

Start: As for 6a

Up wide chimney near tide line, on often wet holds, taking care of block near top


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