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Description

Small zawn near One Mile Beach. Super hard volcanic rock that has loads of friction. Can be a bit crumbly on the South side. There has recently been a fridge sized boulder pulled off next to White Pointer. If you are doing any of the routes in this section be aware that the rock might not be very trustworthy. A lot of the climbs can be done trad.

Access issues

Access is dependant on the tide. Keep an eye on the tide as the only way out if it gets too high is to climb out.

Approach

Park in the One Mile Beach car park and walk to the beach and then to the South end. Follow the obvious track up the steep hill and turn left at the first fork. Take the next left after this down the deep gully untill you reach the rocky headland. Keep heading South over the headland and the crag will appear on the right. There are a couple of trees that are safe for rapping along the deep gully or scramble down the moist rock into the zawn.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
18 Neptunes Necklace Trad 8m

Start left of access point, climb onto large block. Then up past two RB and good 0.5 cam and small wire options to UBB.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2004

2
15 Poiesdon Adventure Unknown 16m

FA: V Wills, 2004

3
17 * Wet Feet Trad 20m

Trad route with top out. Up corner 2m R of Flotsam and Jetsam. Tricky but adequate gear. Pleasant stemming up corner. Reasonable rock and anchor options at top.

FA: V Wills, D Blaadt, 2004

4
22 Olympic- sized Pool Sport 50m

start at L Backbone. Belay in alcove of WASM, continue across to FYLand up and across to anchors on TAS.

FA: Trent Lee, V Wills, 2004

5
22 * Lizard's Backbone Trad 15m

Traverse right to left along the horizontal crack past bolts to anchor at top of fish gut ramp. Has been done on trad gear.

6
19 Flotsam and Jetsam Sport 14m

Start as for Racing Tide, traverse R to clip first bolt on Lizards Backbone then 2 more RB to DRBB

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2004

7
21 ** Racing Tide Sport 15m
8
20 Fresh Airies Sport 14m

FA: Clint Siggins, 2004

10
4 Fish Guts Ramp Trad 6m
11
21 * Falcon's Nest Sport 15m, 4

A couple of metres right of Stinger Missile. Easy untill the end, then it's commiting and hard. Balancy clip then hug the hanging fridge to anchors.

12

Starts below obvious arete halfway down the North wall. Bouldery start to easy middle then left to follow the arete to a couple of jam moves then back right to anchors.

13
25 * Rent Free Sport 16m, 6

Bouldery start past a couple of bolts to ledge then more boulderyness to large break. Have a good rest here because it's your last one. The climb finishes at the top of the wall 1.5m past the anchors.

FA: Justin Jefferson (Equip'd T.Lee), 2004

14
22 Orgasm Free Unknown 16m
15
22 *** Orgasm Donor Sport 15m, 6

Excellent face climb with good moves the whole way. Starts 3m further into the cave past Rent Free.

FA: Trent Lee

16
21 Organ Donor Sport 15m

easier variant to Orgasm Donor. Same start, then traverse left, up to break and then right to finish as for Orgasm Donor.

FA: Trent Lee, 2004

17
20 Flash Your Organ Sport 15m

Start as for Flash Your Lips, then clip the third bolt of Organ Donor, traverse right along break and then up to finish on Organ Donor

FA: Trent Lee, 2004

18
21 ** Flash In The Pan Sport 18m

Start as for Orgasm/Organ Donor, then after third bolt traverse left along break to finish as for Flash Your Lips

FA: Trent Lee, 2004

19
20 * Flash Your Lips Sport 15m, 5

Starts in the dirty corner around from Orgasm Donor. Easy start to left traverse and crux mantle. Funky moves to anchors. Commiting and good, can be done trad.

20

Start at the flake left of FYL start, up to rooflet and traverse right acrss this to join FYL. (Trad gear)- easy to top rope once you've done FYL.

FA: VW

21
23 ** Acid Volcanics Sport 12m

Start up FYL to the first bolt then head left and traverse via thin flake and hanging block. Continue to join un-named 25, clip 4th bolt of Twitch and Salivate and finish at anchors for Hail to the Thief.

FA: Trent Lee, 2004

22
Open Project Mixed Project 12m, 2

Starts 3m right of Flash Your Lips corner. Up thin wall past 2 bolts then follow even thinner seam with RP's and micro cams to the top of block then up. Around 26

23
24 * Twitch and Salivate Sport 12m

FA: V Wills, 2004

24
20 Hail to the Thief Sport 10m

FA: V Wills, 2004

25
11 American Pig"tales" Sport 10m

FA: Mary Ellen Kustin, 2004

26
15 Moby Tick Sport 11m

4 U-Bolts, finish as for Scollops, or top out and use Scollops or AP anchors

FA: Anika Jefferson, Lauren Johnson, Lisa Perrett, 2004

27
18 * Scollops Sport 11m, 3

Follows the line of fixed hangers on the black slab. Sharp and crispy. Possibly harder with a broken hold before the lower off.

FA: Corey Sawyer, John Murton, 2004

28
20 ** Not Just a Pretty Face Sport 11m, 3

Start of the block past 3 U's. A cam in the break can supplement the run out.

FA: Stephen Wade, 1999

29
21 * Shrieking Eels Unknown 15m
30
18 Plimsoll Line Unknown 15m

traverse across the slab above the high water mark.Up and down a little clipping bolts as required.

FA: V Wills, 2004

31
15 Crustaceans Sport 7m
32
18 Dugong Unknown 9m
33
16 Mermaid on a Rock Sport 9m
34
19 * Sea Whores Sport 10m
35

FA: B Carmady

36
20 * Hammerhead Trad 10m

FA: V Wills, 2004

37
24 White pointer Sport 9m
38
22 Wobbygong Sport 10m
39
16 * Grey Nurse Unknown 10m

2m L of lobster trap up to horizontal then crack system to top. Down climb and traverse to LT lower offs

FA: V Wills, T Lee, 2003

40
14 Lobster Trap Sport 7m

Some loose rock.

41
17 ** Seaman Staines Unknown 10m

The diagonal seam up the slab facing into the zawn. Bouldery start. TOp out into bitou bush

FA: T Lee, V Wills, 2003

42
14 Nautical Progeny Trad 10m

FA: V Wills, T Lee, 2003

43
16 Cryptic Sailors Trad 10m

FA: V Wills, 2003

44
18 * Bearded Clam Sport 10m, 2

Line of rings on the elevated platform. Best to stick clip first bolt.

FA: Rod wills, 2003

45

FA: Paul; Paul Wolfenden, 2004

46
21 Seafood Taco Trad 8m

finger crack to R of Bearded Clam

FA: Paul

47

FA: T Haasnoot, T Lee

48
22 Stop wanking direct Unknown 10m

Top rope- straight up thin seam and crack to anchors. Dirty.

49
20 Octopussy Sport 10m
50
21 Toadfish Sport 15m

FA: V Wills

51
21 Hornblower Sport 13m
52

Starts on the small arete on the South side towards the back of the cave. Easy start then follow finger cracks to hard buldery finish.

FA: Pete Morris, 2004

53
24 ** Eye Moss U (Direct) Sport 13m, 4

Avoid the arete. Thin at the bottom.

FA: Peter Morris, 2004

54
15 Corrosion corner Sport 13m

FA: V Wills, 2004

55
19 Broken Fishing Rod Sport 13m

FA: V Wills, 2004

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.