A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Morna point 55 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 152.120340, -32.780200


Small zawn near One Mile Beach. Super hard volcanic rock that has loads of friction. Can be a bit crumbly on the South side. There has recently been a fridge sized boulder pulled off next to White Pointer. If you are doing any of the routes in this section be aware that the rock might not be very trustworthy. A lot of the climbs can be done trad.

Access Issues:

Access is dependant on the tide. Keep an eye on the tide as the only way out if it gets too high is to climb out.


Park in the One Mile Beach car park and walk to the beach and then to the South end. Follow the obvious track up the steep hill and turn left at the first fork. Take the next left after this down the deep gully untill you reach the rocky headland. Keep heading South over the headland and the crag will appear on the right. There are a couple of trees that are safe for rapping along the deep gully or scramble down the moist rock into the zawn.

1.1. North Wall 24 routes in Sector

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 152.120233, -32.780181


Routes are described right to left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Neptunes Necklace

Start left of access point, climb onto large block. Then up past two RB and good 0.5 cam and small wire options to UBB.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2004

18 Trad 8m
2 Poiesdon Adventure

FA: V Wills, 2004

15 Unknown 16m
3 * Wet Feet

Trad route with top out. Up corner 2m R of Flotsam and Jetsam. Tricky but adequate gear. Pleasant stemming up corner. Reasonable rock and anchor options at top.

FA: V Wills, D Blaadt, 2004

17 Trad 20m
4 Olympic- sized Pool

start at L Backbone. Belay in alcove of WASM, continue across to FYLand up and across to anchors on TAS.

FA: Trent Lee, V Wills, 2004

22 Sport 50m
5 * Lizard's Backbone

Traverse right to left along the horizontal crack past bolts to anchor at top of fish gut ramp. Has been done on trad gear.

22 Trad 15m
6 Flotsam and Jetsam

Start as for Racing Tide, traverse R to clip first bolt on Lizards Backbone then 2 more RB to DRBB

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2004

19 Sport 14m
7 ** Racing Tide 21 Sport 15m
8 Fresh Airies

FA: Clint Siggins, 2004

20 Sport 14m
9 Fresh Airies Extended 21 Sport 15m
10 Fish Guts Ramp 4 Trad 6m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Falcon's Nest

A couple of metres right of Stinger Missile. Easy untill the end, then it's commiting and hard. Balancy clip then hug the hanging fridge to anchors.

21 Sport 15m, 4
12 * Where's a Stinger Missile When You Need One?

Starts below obvious arete halfway down the North wall. Bouldery start to easy middle then left to follow the arete to a couple of jam moves then back right to anchors.

22 Sport 15m, 4
13 * Rent Free

Bouldery start past a couple of bolts to ledge then more boulderyness to large break. Have a good rest here because it's your last one. The climb finishes at the top of the wall 1.5m past the anchors.

FA: Justin Jefferson (Equip'd T.Lee), 2004

25 Sport 16m, 6
14 Orgasm Free 22 Unknown 16m
15 *** Orgasm Donor

Excellent face climb with good moves the whole way. Starts 3m further into the cave past Rent Free.

FA: Trent Lee

22 Sport 15m, 6
16 Organ Donor

easier variant to Orgasm Donor. Same start, then traverse left, up to break and then right to finish as for Orgasm Donor.

FA: Trent Lee, 2004

21 Sport 15m
17 Flash Your Organ

Start as for Flash Your Lips, then clip the third bolt of Organ Donor, traverse right along break and then up to finish on Organ Donor

FA: Trent Lee, 2004

20 Sport 15m
18 ** Flash In The Pan

Start as for Orgasm/Organ Donor, then after third bolt traverse left along break to finish as for Flash Your Lips

FA: Trent Lee, 2004

21 Sport 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
19 * Flash Your Lips

Starts in the dirty corner around from Orgasm Donor. Easy start to left traverse and crux mantle. Funky moves to anchors. Commiting and good, can be done trad.

20 Sport 15m, 5
20 Flash your Lips Twice- flake start

Start at the flake left of FYL start, up to rooflet and traverse right acrss this to join FYL. (Trad gear)- easy to top rope once you've done FYL.


21 Sport 17m
21 ** Acid Volcanics

Start up FYL to the first bolt then head left and traverse via thin flake and hanging block. Continue to join un-named 25, clip 4th bolt of Twitch and Salivate and finish at anchors for Hail to the Thief.

FA: Trent Lee, 2004

23 Sport 12m
22 Open Project

Starts 3m right of Flash Your Lips corner. Up thin wall past 2 bolts then follow even thinner seam with RP's and micro cams to the top of block then up. Around 26

Mixed Project 12m, 2
23 * Twitch and Salivate

FA: V Wills, 2004

24 Sport 12m
24 Hail to the Thief

Left-most route on north wall.

FA: V Wills, 2004

20 Sport 10m

1.2. South Wall 31 routes in Sector

Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.120353, -32.780278


Routes are described from left to right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 American Pig"tales"

FA: Mary Ellen Kustin, 2004

11 Sport 10m
2 Moby Tick

4 U-Bolts, finish as for Scollops, or top out and use Scollops or AP anchors

FA: Anika Jefferson, Lauren Johnson, Lisa Perrett, 2004

15 Sport 11m
3 * Scollops

Follows the line of fixed hangers on the black slab. Sharp and crispy. Possibly harder with a broken hold before the lower off.

FA: Corey Sawyer, John Murton, 2004

18 Sport 11m, 3
4 ** Not Just a Pretty Face

Start of the block past 3 U's. A cam in the break can supplement the run out.

FA: Stephen Wade, 1999

20 Sport 11m, 3
5 * Shrieking Eels 21 Unknown 15m
6 Plimsoll Line

traverse across the slab above the high water mark.Up and down a little clipping bolts as required.

FA: V Wills, 2004

18 Unknown 15m
7 Crustaceans 15 Sport 7m
8 Dugong 18 Unknown 9m
9 Mermaid on a Rock 16 Sport 9m
10 Sea Whores 19 Sport 10m
11 Hammerhead direct start

FA: B Carmady

20 Trad 10m
12 * Hammerhead

FA: V Wills, 2004

20 Trad 10m
13 White pointer 24 Sport 9m
14 Wobbygong 22 Sport 10m
15 * Grey Nurse

2m L of lobster trap up to horizontal then crack system to top. Down climb and traverse to LT lower offs

FA: V Wills, T Lee, 2003

16 Unknown 10m
16 Lobster Trap

Some loose rock.

14 Sport 7m
17 ** Seaman Staines

The diagonal seam up the slab facing into the zawn. Bouldery start. TOp out into bitou bush

FA: T Lee, V Wills, 2003

17 Unknown 10m
18 Nautical Progeny

FA: V Wills, T Lee, 2003

14 Trad 10m
19 Cryptic Sailors

FA: V Wills, 2003

16 Trad 10m
20 * Bearded Clam

Line of rings on the elevated platform. Best to stick clip first bolt.

FA: Rod wills, 2003

18 Sport 10m, 2
21 Unknown (ST to BC)- trad

FA: Paul; Paul Wolfenden, 2004

17 Trad 8m
22 Seafood Taco

finger crack to R of Bearded Clam

FA: Paul,Paul

21 Trad 8m
23 Stop Wanking, get Cranking

FA: T Haasnoot, T Lee

16 Sport 15m
24 Stop wanking direct

Top rope- straight up thin seam and crack to anchors. Dirty.

22 Unknown 10m
25 Octopussy 20 Sport 10m
26 Toadfish

FA: V Wills

21 Sport 15m
27 Hornblower 21 Sport 13m
28 ** Eye Moss U (Corner Varient)

Starts on the small arete on the South side towards the back of the cave. Easy start then follow finger cracks to hard buldery finish.

FA: Pete Morris, 2004

23 Sport 15m, 4
29 ** Eye Moss U (Direct)

Avoid the arete. Thin at the bottom.

FA: Peter Morris, 2004

24 Sport 13m, 4
30 Corrosion corner

FA: V Wills, 2004

15 Unknown 13m
31 Broken Fishing Rod

FA: V Wills, 2004

19 Unknown 13m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
4 Fish Guts Ramp Trad 6m 1.1. North Wall
11 American Pig"tales" Sport 10m 1.2. South Wall
14 Lobster Trap Sport 7m 1.2. South Wall
Nautical Progeny Trad 10m 1.2. South Wall
15 Poiesdon Adventure Unknown 16m 1.1. North Wall
Corrosion corner Unknown 13m 1.2. South Wall
Crustaceans Sport 7m 1.2. South Wall
Moby Tick Sport 11m 1.2. South Wall
16 Cryptic Sailors Trad 10m 1.2. South Wall
* Grey Nurse Unknown 10m 1.2. South Wall
Mermaid on a Rock Sport 9m 1.2. South Wall
Stop Wanking, get Cranking Sport 15m 1.2. South Wall
17 * Wet Feet Trad 20m 1.1. North Wall
** Seaman Staines Unknown 10m 1.2. South Wall
Unknown (ST to BC)- trad Trad 8m 1.2. South Wall
18 Neptunes Necklace Trad 8m 1.1. North Wall
* Bearded Clam Sport 10m, 2 1.2. South Wall
Dugong Unknown 9m 1.2. South Wall
Plimsoll Line Unknown 15m 1.2. South Wall
* Scollops Sport 11m, 3 1.2. South Wall
19 Flotsam and Jetsam Sport 14m 1.1. North Wall
Broken Fishing Rod Unknown 13m 1.2. South Wall
Sea Whores Sport 10m 1.2. South Wall
20 * Flash Your Lips Sport 15m, 5 1.1. North Wall
Flash Your Organ Sport 15m 1.1. North Wall
Fresh Airies Sport 14m 1.1. North Wall
Hail to the Thief Sport 10m 1.1. North Wall
* Hammerhead Trad 10m 1.2. South Wall
Hammerhead direct start Trad 10m 1.2. South Wall
** Not Just a Pretty Face Sport 11m, 3 1.2. South Wall
Octopussy Sport 10m 1.2. South Wall
21 Falcon's Nest Sport 15m, 4 1.1. North Wall
** Flash In The Pan Sport 18m 1.1. North Wall
Flash your Lips Twice- flake start Sport 17m 1.1. North Wall
Fresh Airies Extended Sport 15m 1.1. North Wall
Organ Donor Sport 15m 1.1. North Wall
** Racing Tide Sport 15m 1.1. North Wall
Hornblower Sport 13m 1.2. South Wall
Seafood Taco Trad 8m 1.2. South Wall
* Shrieking Eels Unknown 15m 1.2. South Wall
Toadfish Sport 15m 1.2. South Wall
22 * Lizard's Backbone Trad 15m 1.1. North Wall
Olympic- sized Pool Sport 50m 1.1. North Wall
*** Orgasm Donor Sport 15m, 6 1.1. North Wall
Orgasm Free Unknown 16m 1.1. North Wall
* Where's a Stinger Missile When You Need One? Sport 15m, 4 1.1. North Wall
Stop wanking direct Unknown 10m 1.2. South Wall
Wobbygong Sport 10m 1.2. South Wall
23 ** Acid Volcanics Sport 12m 1.1. North Wall
** Eye Moss U (Corner Varient) Sport 15m, 4 1.2. South Wall
24 * Twitch and Salivate Sport 12m 1.1. North Wall
** Eye Moss U (Direct) Sport 13m, 4 1.2. South Wall
White pointer Sport 9m 1.2. South Wall
25 * Rent Free Sport 16m, 6 1.1. North Wall
? Open Project Mixed Project 12m, 2 1.1. North Wall