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Table of contents

1. Morna point 55 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 152.120340, -32.780200

Description:

Small zawn near One Mile Beach. Super hard volcanic rock that has loads of friction. Can be a bit crumbly on the South side. There has recently been a fridge sized boulder pulled off next to White Pointer. If you are doing any of the routes in this section be aware that the rock might not be very trustworthy. A lot of the climbs can be done trad.

Access Issues:

Access is dependant on the tide. Keep an eye on the tide as the only way out if it gets too high is to climb out.

Approach:

Park in the One Mile Beach car park and walk to the beach and then to the South end. Follow the obvious track up the steep hill and turn left at the first fork. Take the next left after this down the deep gully untill you reach the rocky headland. Keep heading South over the headland and the crag will appear on the right. There are a couple of trees that are safe for rapping along the deep gully or scramble down the moist rock into the zawn.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Neptunes Necklace

Start left of access point, climb onto large block. Then up past two RB and good 0.5 cam and small wire options to UBB.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2004

18Trad 8m
2 Poiesdon Adventure

FA: V Wills, 2004

15Unknown 16m
3 * Wet Feet

Trad route with top out. Up corner 2m R of Flotsam and Jetsam. Tricky but adequate gear. Pleasant stemming up corner. Reasonable rock and anchor options at top.

FA: V Wills, D Blaadt, 2004

17Trad 20m
4 Olympic- sized Pool

start at L Backbone. Belay in alcove of WASM, continue across to FYLand up and across to anchors on TAS.

FA: Trent Lee, V Wills, 2004

22Sport 50m
5 * Lizard's Backbone

Traverse right to left along the horizontal crack past bolts to anchor at top of fish gut ramp. Has been done on trad gear.

22Trad 15m
6 Flotsam and Jetsam

Start as for Racing Tide, traverse R to clip first bolt on Lizards Backbone then 2 more RB to DRBB

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2004

19Sport 14m
7 ** Racing Tide 21Sport 15m
8 Fresh Airies

FA: Clint Siggins, 2004

20Sport 14m
9 Fresh Airies Extended 21Sport 15m
10 Fish Guts Ramp 4Trad 6m
11 * Falcon's Nest

A couple of metres right of Stinger Missile. Easy untill the end, then it's commiting and hard. Balancy clip then hug the hanging fridge to anchors.

21Sport 15m, 4
12 * Where's a Stinger Missile When You Need One?

Starts below obvious arete halfway down the North wall. Bouldery start to easy middle then left to follow the arete to a couple of jam moves then back right to anchors.

22Sport 15m, 4
13 * Rent Free

Bouldery start past a couple of bolts to ledge then more boulderyness to large break. Have a good rest here because it's your last one. The climb finishes at the top of the wall 1.5m past the anchors.

FA: Justin Jefferson (Equip'd T.Lee), 2004

25Sport 16m, 6
14 Orgasm Free 22Unknown 16m
15 *** Orgasm Donor

Excellent face climb with good moves the whole way. Starts 3m further into the cave past Rent Free.

FA: Trent Lee

22Sport 15m, 6
16 Organ Donor

easier variant to Orgasm Donor. Same start, then traverse left, up to break and then right to finish as for Orgasm Donor.

FA: Trent Lee, 2004

21Sport 15m
17 Flash Your Organ

Start as for Flash Your Lips, then clip the third bolt of Organ Donor, traverse right along break and then up to finish on Organ Donor

FA: Trent Lee, 2004

20Sport 15m
18 ** Flash In The Pan

Start as for Orgasm/Organ Donor, then after third bolt traverse left along break to finish as for Flash Your Lips

FA: Trent Lee, 2004

21Sport 18m
19 * Flash Your Lips

Starts in the dirty corner around from Orgasm Donor. Easy start to left traverse and crux mantle. Funky moves to anchors. Commiting and good, can be done trad.

20Sport 15m, 5
20 Flash your Lips Twice- flake start

Start at the flake left of FYL start, up to rooflet and traverse right acrss this to join FYL. (Trad gear)- easy to top rope once you've done FYL.

FA: VW

21Sport 17m
21 ** Acid Volcanics

Start up FYL to the first bolt then head left and traverse via thin flake and hanging block. Continue to join un-named 25, clip 4th bolt of Twitch and Salivate and finish at anchors for Hail to the Thief.

FA: Trent Lee, 2004

23Sport 12m
22 Open Project

Starts 3m right of Flash Your Lips corner. Up thin wall past 2 bolts then follow even thinner seam with RP's and micro cams to the top of block then up. Around 26

Mixed Project 12m, 2
23 * Twitch and Salivate

FA: V Wills, 2004

24Sport 12m
24 Hail to the Thief

FA: V Wills, 2004

20Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
25 American Pig"tales"

FA: Mary Ellen Kustin, 2004

11Sport 10m
26 Moby Tick

4 U-Bolts, finish as for Scollops, or top out and use Scollops or AP anchors

FA: Anika Jefferson, Lauren Johnson, Lisa Perrett, 2004

15Sport 11m
27 * Scollops

Follows the line of fixed hangers on the black slab. Sharp and crispy. Possibly harder with a broken hold before the lower off.

FA: Corey Sawyer, John Murton, 2004

18Sport 11m, 3
28 ** Not Just a Pretty Face

Start of the block past 3 U's. A cam in the break can supplement the run out.

FA: Stephen Wade, 1999

20Sport 11m, 3
29 * Shrieking Eels 21Unknown 15m
30 Plimsoll Line

traverse across the slab above the high water mark.Up and down a little clipping bolts as required.

FA: V Wills, 2004

18Unknown 15m
31 Crustaceans 15Sport 7m
32 Dugong 18Unknown 9m
33 Mermaid on a Rock 16Sport 9m
34 * Sea Whores 19Sport 10m
35 Hammerhead direct start

FA: B Carmady

20Trad 10m
36 * Hammerhead

FA: V Wills, 2004

20Trad 10m
37 White pointer 24Sport 9m
38 Wobbygong 22Sport 10m
39 * Grey Nurse

2m L of lobster trap up to horizontal then crack system to top. Down climb and traverse to LT lower offs

FA: V Wills, T Lee, 2003

16Unknown 10m
40 Lobster Trap

Some loose rock.

14Sport 7m
41 ** Seaman Staines

The diagonal seam up the slab facing into the zawn. Bouldery start. TOp out into bitou bush

FA: T Lee, V Wills, 2003

17Unknown 10m
42 Nautical Progeny

FA: V Wills, T Lee, 2003

14Trad 10m
43 Cryptic Sailors

FA: V Wills, 2003

16Trad 10m
44 * Bearded Clam

Line of rings on the elevated platform. Best to stick clip first bolt.

FA: Rod wills, 2003

18Sport 10m, 2
45 Unknown (ST to BC)- trad

FA: Paul; Paul Wolfenden, 2004

17Trad 8m
46 Seafood Taco

finger crack to R of Bearded Clam

FA: Paul

21Trad 8m
47 Stop Wanking, get Cranking

FA: T Haasnoot, T Lee

16Sport 15m
48 Stop wanking direct

Top rope- straight up thin seam and crack to anchors. Dirty.

22Unknown 10m
49 Octopussy 20Sport 10m
50 Toadfish

FA: V Wills

21Sport 15m
51 Hornblower 21Sport 13m
52 ** Eye Moss U (Corner Varient)

Starts on the small arete on the South side towards the back of the cave. Easy start then follow finger cracks to hard buldery finish.

FA: Pete Morris, 2004

23Sport 15m, 4
53 ** Eye Moss U (Direct)

Avoid the arete. Thin at the bottom.

FA: Peter Morris, 2004

24Sport 13m, 4
54 Corrosion corner

FA: V Wills, 2004

15Sport 13m
55 Broken Fishing Rod

FA: V Wills, 2004

19Sport 13m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
4 Fish Guts Ramp Trad 6m
11 American Pig"tales" Sport 10m
14 Lobster Trap Sport 7m
Nautical Progeny Trad 10m
15 Corrosion corner Sport 13m
Crustaceans Sport 7m
Moby Tick Sport 11m
Poiesdon Adventure Unknown 16m
16 Cryptic Sailors Trad 10m
* Grey Nurse Unknown 10m
Mermaid on a Rock Sport 9m
Stop Wanking, get Cranking Sport 15m
17 ** Seaman Staines Unknown 10m
Unknown (ST to BC)- trad Trad 8m
* Wet Feet Trad 20m
18 * Bearded Clam Sport 10m, 2
Dugong Unknown 9m
Neptunes Necklace Trad 8m
Plimsoll Line Unknown 15m
* Scollops Sport 11m, 3
19 Broken Fishing Rod Sport 13m
Flotsam and Jetsam Sport 14m
* Sea Whores Sport 10m
20 * Flash Your Lips Sport 15m, 5
Flash Your Organ Sport 15m
Fresh Airies Sport 14m
Hail to the Thief Sport 10m
* Hammerhead Trad 10m
Hammerhead direct start Trad 10m
** Not Just a Pretty Face Sport 11m, 3
Octopussy Sport 10m
21 * Falcon's Nest Sport 15m, 4
** Flash In The Pan Sport 18m
Flash your Lips Twice- flake start Sport 17m
Fresh Airies Extended Sport 15m
Hornblower Sport 13m
Organ Donor Sport 15m
** Racing Tide Sport 15m
Seafood Taco Trad 8m
* Shrieking Eels Unknown 15m
Toadfish Sport 15m
22 * Lizard's Backbone Trad 15m
Olympic- sized Pool Sport 50m
*** Orgasm Donor Sport 15m, 6
Orgasm Free Unknown 16m
Stop wanking direct Unknown 10m
* Where's a Stinger Missile When You Need One? Sport 15m, 4
Wobbygong Sport 10m
23 ** Acid Volcanics Sport 12m
** Eye Moss U (Corner Varient) Sport 15m, 4
24 ** Eye Moss U (Direct) Sport 13m, 4
* Twitch and Salivate Sport 12m
White pointer Sport 9m
25 * Rent Free Sport 16m, 6
? Open Project Mixed Project 12m, 2