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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Vanessa Wills Trent Lee Leith D Stephen Hawkshaw Tim Haasnoot JJ Peter Morris Lauren Haasnoot

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Morna point 55 routes in Crag

Summary:
?,Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.120340, -32.780200

Description:

Small zawn near One Mile Beach. Super hard volcanic rock that has loads of friction. Can be a bit crumbly on the South side. There has recently been a fridge sized boulder pulled off next to White Pointer. If you are doing any of the routes in this section be aware that the rock might not be very trustworthy. A lot of the climbs can be done trad.

Access Issues:

Access is dependant on the tide. Keep an eye on the tide as the only way out if it gets too high is to climb out.

Approach:

Park in the One Mile Beach car park and walk towards the South end of the beach. Follow the obvious track up the step hill and turn left at the first fork. Take the next left after this down the deep gully untill you reach the rocky headland. Keep heading South over the headland and the crag will appear on the right. There are a couple of trees that are safe for rapping along the deep gully.

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Neptunes Necklace

Start left of access point, climb onto large block. Then up past two RB and good 0.5 cam and small wire options to UBB.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2004

18
Unknown 8m
Chris Bentham 7 years ago

should be graded 12, why? not worth the bolts

Nick Kaczorowski 7 years ago

Do youself a favour an gets someone to put the draws on this pumpy number!

2 Poiesdon Adventure

FA: V Wills, 2004

15
Unknown 16m
Vanessa Wills 8 years ago

Mantles then slab L of descent

3 * Wet Feet

Trad route with top out. Up corner 2m R of Flotsam and Jetsam. Tricky but adequate gear. Pleasant stemming up corner. Reasonable rock and anchor options at top.

FA: V Wills, D Blaadt, 2004

17
Unknown 20m
Paul W 7 years ago

shame it isnt longer

Vanessa Wills 8 years ago

very pleasant stemming up corner to top out

4 Olympic- sized Pool

start at L Backbone. Belay in alcove of WASM, continue across to FYLand up and across to anchors on TAS.

FA: Trent Lee, V Wills, 2004

22
Unknown 50m
Vanessa Wills 8 years ago

mega traverse, good in places. 50th climb at Morna.

Trent Lee

something a little different

5 * Lizard's Backbone

Traverse right to left along the horizontal crack past bolts to anchor at top of fish gut ramp. Has been done on trad gear.

22
Trad 15m
Trent Lee 9 years ago

ignored the bolts and onsighted it on trad.

Vanessa Wills 9 years ago

all trad gear

6 Flotsam and Jetsam

Start as for Racing Tide, traverse R to clip first bolt on Lizards Backbone then 2 more RB to DRBB

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2004

19
Unknown 14m
Nick Kaczorowski 7 years ago

mouldtastic!

Chris Bentham 7 years ago

19 my ass, about 15... soft

7 ** Racing Tide
21
Unknown 15m
Neil Monteith 6 years ago

Best route i did here. Anchor is RUSTY!

Vanessa Wills 7 years ago

nice one steve Jun 2004 and again

8 Fresh Airies

FA: Clint Siggins, 2004

20
Unknown 14m
Neil Monteith 6 years ago

Nice flake crack. Direct finish was nails!

Lauren Haasnoot 8 years ago

Got a little scared at the mantle! Cool flake.

9 Fresh Airies Extended
21
Unknown 15m
JJ 8 years ago

Hard to clip off the crimpers, balancy.

Vanessa Wills 8 years ago

contrived nonsense

10 Fish Guts Ramp
4
Unknown 6m
Danger Innes 8 months ago

eod high tide. live action.

Anika Jefferson 8 years ago

Easy

11 * Falcon's Nest

A couple of metres right of Stinger Missile. Easy untill the end, then it's commiting and hard. Balancy clip then hug the hanging fridge to anchors.

21
Sport 15m , 4
Nick Kaczorowski 8 years ago

hard move to anchors.

Lauren Haasnoot 8 years ago

Climbed out (diverged R under roof at end) to avoid high tide!! Will try clean another day

12 * Where's a Stinger Missile When You Need One?

Starts below obvious arete halfway down the North wall. Bouldery start to easy middle then left to follow the arete to a couple of jam moves then back right to anchors.

22
Sport 15m , 4
Danger Innes 11 weeks ago

Top crack is awesome. can layback or jam. maybe a little soft imo? if only the middle was sustain...

Jon Ash 5 months ago

Nice little crack for some finger locks at the top!

13 Rent Free

Bouldery start past a couple of bolts to ledge then more boulderyness to large break. Have a good rest here because it's your last one. The climb finishes at the top of the wall 1.5m past the anchors.

FA: Justin Jefferson (Equip'd T.Lee), 2004

25
Sport 16m , 6
Jimmy Mullan 5 months ago

Got it done 3rd shot. The sequence at the top is great. First 25

Jimmy Mullan 7 months ago

Couldn't get it done before the tips were fried. Up to the last move 3 times. Great climbing near...

14 Orgasm Free
22
Unknown 16m
Jason Lammers 4 years ago

Doddy style linkup ;-)

Vanessa Wills 6 years ago

Yeah, another linkup. Up RF to crux then into OD. Done both before.

15 *** Orgasm Donor

Excellent face climb with good moves the whole way. Starts 3m further into the cave past Rent Free.

FA: Trent Lee,

22
Sport 15m , 6
Danger Innes 3 months ago

o/s attempt. Really fun

Jimmy Mullan 7 months ago

Another lap. Fantstic climb. Much easier this time around despite coming of a 3 month break

16 Organ Donor

easier variant to Orgasm Donor. Same start, then traverse left, up to break and then right to finish as for Orgasm Donor.

FA: Trent Lee, 2004

21
Unknown 15m
Jason Lammers 4 years ago

Random Variant, but still good.

Vanessa Wills 5 years ago

Done this at some time, another variant

17 Flash Your Organ

Start as for Flash Your Lips, then clip the third bolt of Organ Donor, traverse right along break and then up to finish on Organ Donor

FA: Trent Lee, 2004

20
Unknown 15m
Nick Kaczorowski 6 years ago

A bit dirty.

Trent Lee 9 years ago

not bad for a hybrid

18 ** Flash In The Pan

Start as for Orgasm/Organ Donor, then after third bolt traverse left along break to finish as for Flash Your Lips

FA: Trent Lee, 2004

21
Unknown 18m
Keith Hannan 8 years ago

Did this one the hard way - no heel hook

Vanessa Wills 8 years ago

running out of things to do

19 * Flash Your Lips

Starts in the dirty corner around from Orgasm Donor. Easy start to left traverse and crux mantle. Funky moves to anchors. Commiting and good, can be done trad.

20
Sport 15m , 5
Leith D 3 months ago

Nice return visit to my first outdoor crag. Good half day session.

Danger Innes 3 months ago

Sod

20 Flash your Lips Twice- flake start

Start at the flake left of FYL start, up to rooflet and traverse right acrss this to join FYL. (Trad gear)- easy to top rope once you've done FYL.

FA: VW,

21
Unknown 17m
Vanessa Wills 4 years ago

Trad gear up flake and undercling traverse. Obviously bored and looking for new stuff to do.

21 ** Acid Volcanics

Start up FYL to the first bolt then head left and traverse via thin flake and hanging block. Continue to join un-named 25, clip 4th bolt of Twitch and Salivate and finish at anchors for Hail to the Thief.

FA: Trent Lee, 2004

23
Sport 12m
Trent Lee 8 years ago

average pro after crux. maybe E5 6a in grit scale?

22 Open Project

Starts 3m right of Flash Your Lips corner. Up thin wall past 2 bolts then follow even thinner seam with RP's and micro cams to the top of block then up. Around 26

Mixed Project 12m , 2
23 * Twitch and Salivate

FA: V Wills, 2004

24
Sport 12m
Danger Innes 3 months ago

o/s attempt.

Leith D 9 months ago

Bouldery start with interesting moves on nice holds.

24 Hail to the Thief

FA: V Wills, 2004

20
Sport 10m
Danger Innes 11 weeks ago

sod warm up. repeat

Danger Innes 8 months ago

really good. couple of laps

25 American Pig"tales"

FA: Mary Ellen Kustin, 2004

11
Unknown 10m
Danger Innes 11 weeks ago

barefoot solo to set up top rope. good for kids

Meagan Kerr 8 years ago

Good Warm Up

Hide
RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
26 Moby Tick

4 U-Bolts, finish as for Scollops.

FA: Anika Jefferson, Lauren Johnson, Lisa Perrett, 2004

15
Unknown 11m
Danger Innes 11 weeks ago

finished at the anchors on the right (left pig tails as TR). id say getting to the anchors on the...

Sammi 6 years ago

With JJ

27 * Scollops

Follows the line of fixed hangers on the black slab. Sharp and crispy.

FA: Corey Sawyer, John Murton, 2004

18
Sport 11m , 3
Jimmy Mullan 7 months ago

I'm not good at slabs but that doesn't change the fact that this is not 18. The flakes constantly...

Neil Monteith 6 years ago

Needs another bolt! I hate slabs.

28 ** Not Just a Pretty Face

Start of the block past 3 U's. A cam in the break can supplement the run out.

FA: Stephen Wade, 1999

20
Sport 11m , 3
Danger Innes 11 weeks ago

Just couldn't reach hold at 2nd . Good climb

Lauren Haasnoot 7 years ago

calf burner!

29 * Shrieking Eels
21
Unknown 15m
Adam Bramwell 8 years ago

exciting watching andy lead it

Chris Bentham 8 years ago

not too hard for the grade.

30 Plimsoll Line

traverse across the slab above the high water mark.Up and down a little clipping bolts as required.

FA: V Wills, 2004

18
Unknown 15m
Vanessa Wills 8 years ago

traverse black slab (solo) calf burner.

31 Crustaceans
15
Unknown 7m
Anika Jefferson 8 years ago

Run out.

Meagan Kerr 9 years ago

does it really require a rope?

32 Dugong
18
Unknown 9m
Vanessa Wills 8 years ago

up from corner to anchors of MOAR

33 Mermaid on a Rock
16
Sport 9m
Nick Kaczorowski 7 years ago

felt a bit bold, hard for 16

Trent Lee 9 years ago

needs lower offs to avoid the choss at the top

34 * Sea Whores
19
Sport 10m
Neil Monteith 6 years ago

Contrived and sandy. I have no idea if i did this right.

Lauren Haasnoot 8 years ago

Put a screw gate biner on horizontal U bolt if top roping. Nice balancy cllimb.

35 Hammerhead direct start

FA: B Carmady,

20
Trad 10m
36 * Hammerhead

FA: V Wills, 2004

20
Trad 10m
Leith D 9 months ago

One piece of trad makes this a much safer climb at the top.

Nick Kaczorowski 8 years ago

Poor rock makes this otherwise good line shite

37 White pointer
24
Sport 9m
Jason Rae 4 months ago

Very hard. ESP last 1m. I think I need new shoes after this one...

Chris Bentham 7 years ago

ok, just glad i dont have to do it again...

38 Wobbygong
22
Sport 10m
Danger Innes 11 weeks ago

avoided the arete on white pointer and went right. toping out was safer imo. would like to try it...

Leith D 9 months ago

Found alternate beta if you're tall that uses small corner ledge, will try for next time.

39 Grey Nurse

2m L of lobster trap up to horizontal then crack system to top. Down climb and traverse to LT lower offs

FA: V Wills, T Lee, 2003

16
Unknown 10m
Danger Innes 8 months ago

sound waves crashing below as you climb. pretty good

Jason Lammers 4 years ago

Trad Dad had no gear.

40 Lobster Trap
14
Unknown 7m
Neil Monteith 6 years ago

Fairly tricky for 14 - and scary 2nd clip for begineer.

Nick Kaczorowski 6 years ago

WHOever bolted this needs a lesson, un recessed rings are not cool.

41 Seaman Staines

The diagonal seam up the slab facing into the zawn. Bouldery start. TOp out into bitou bush

FA: T Lee, V Wills, 2003

17
Unknown 10m
Trent Lee 9 years ago

needs lower offs. crux is the start

Vanessa Wills 9 years ago

awkward start

42 Nautical Progeny

FA: V Wills, T Lee, 2003

14
Unknown 10m
Nick Kaczorowski 9 years ago

ok.

Vanessa Wills 9 years ago

nice blocks

43 Cryptic Sailors

FA: V Wills, 2003

16
Unknown 10m
Jason Lammers 5 years ago

Yeah - Fun

Nick Kaczorowski 7 years ago

short and runout on ordinary rock with average gear.

44 * Bearded Clam

Line of rings on the elevated platform. Best to stick clip first bolt.

FA: Rod wills, 2003

18
Sport 10m , 2
Jason Lammers 5 years ago

Noice slab.

Nick Kaczorowski 6 years ago

nice.

45 Unknown (ST to BC)- trad

FA: Paul; Paul Wolfenden, 2004

17
Unknown 8m
46 Seafood Taco

finger crack to R of Bearded Clam

FA: Paul ,

21
Unknown 8m
Vanessa Wills 4 years ago

About 19. Gear adequate, I was just soft and preplaced it.

Paul W 8 years ago

hard start then trend left to BC anchors

47 Stop Wanking, get Cranking

FA: T Haasnoot, T Lee,

16
Sport 15m
Jason Lammers 4 years ago

Choss, waste of good steel.

andrew king 6 years ago

lots loose rock

48 Stop wanking direct

Top rope- straight up thin seam and crack to anchors. Dirty.

22
Unknown 10m
Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

Obviously bored. Interesting moves.Dirty rock.

49 Octopussy
20
Sport 10m
Matt Miller 13 weeks ago

A good climb, worth the repeat for sure.

Danger Innes 8 months ago

little dirty but good

50 Toadfish

FA: V Wills,

21
Sport 15m
Matt Miller 13 weeks ago

Surprisingly good climbing, shame it's so short.

David Michael 13 weeks ago

Had to bail due to heavy rain. Fun lower sections.

51 Hornblower
21
Sport 13m
Danger Innes 11 weeks ago

quick lap to clean.

Danger Innes 11 weeks ago

easier to skip the 3rd RB. 2 no hands rests

52 ** Eye Moss U (Corner Varient)

Starts on the small arete on the South side towards the back of the cave. Easy start then follow finger cracks to hard buldery finish.

FA: Pete Morris, 2004

23
Sport 15m , 4
53 ** Eye Moss U (Direct)

Avoid the arete. Thin at the bottom.

FA: Peter Morris, 2004

24
Sport 13m , 4
Vanessa Wills 5 years ago

Its still the same crux whether you bridge or not at the start! Felt like 24, a dyno off a gaston...

Tim Haasnoot 7 years ago

Fell at anchors, got an eye full of dirt, couldn't c them

54 Corrosion corner

FA: V Wills, 2004

15
Unknown 13m
Vanessa Wills 8 years ago

scary, bad rock. (solo)

55 Broken Fishing Rod

FA: V Wills, 2004

19
Unknown 13m
Vanessa Wills 8 years ago

head L at the top to avoid the choss

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
4 Fish Guts Ramp Unknown 6m
11 American Pig"tales" Unknown 10m
14 Lobster Trap Unknown 7m
Nautical Progeny Unknown 10m
15 Corrosion corner Unknown 13m
Crustaceans Unknown 7m
Moby Tick Unknown 11m
Poiesdon Adventure Unknown 16m
16 Cryptic Sailors Unknown 10m
Grey Nurse Unknown 10m
Mermaid on a Rock Sport 9m
Stop Wanking, get Cranking Sport 15m
17 Seaman Staines Unknown 10m
Unknown (ST to BC)- trad Unknown 8m
* Wet Feet Unknown 20m
18 * Bearded Clam Sport 10m , 2
Dugong Unknown 9m
Neptunes Necklace Unknown 8m
Plimsoll Line Unknown 15m
* Scollops Sport 11m , 3
19 Broken Fishing Rod Unknown 13m
Flotsam and Jetsam Unknown 14m
* Sea Whores Sport 10m
20 * Flash Your Lips Sport 15m , 5
Flash Your Organ Unknown 15m
Fresh Airies Unknown 14m
Hail to the Thief Sport 10m
* Hammerhead Trad 10m
Hammerhead direct start Trad 10m
** Not Just a Pretty Face Sport 11m , 3
Octopussy Sport 10m
21 * Falcon's Nest Sport 15m , 4
** Flash In The Pan Unknown 18m
Flash your Lips Twice- flake start Unknown 17m
Fresh Airies Extended Unknown 15m
Hornblower Sport 13m
Organ Donor Unknown 15m
** Racing Tide Unknown 15m
Seafood Taco Unknown 8m
* Shrieking Eels Unknown 15m
Toadfish Sport 15m
22 * Lizard's Backbone Trad 15m
Olympic- sized Pool Unknown 50m
*** Orgasm Donor Sport 15m , 6
Orgasm Free Unknown 16m
Stop wanking direct Unknown 10m
* Where's a Stinger Missile When You Need One? Sport 15m , 4
Wobbygong Sport 10m
23 ** Acid Volcanics Sport 12m
** Eye Moss U (Corner Varient) Sport 15m , 4
24 ** Eye Moss U (Direct) Sport 13m , 4
* Twitch and Salivate Sport 12m
White pointer Sport 9m
25 Rent Free Sport 16m , 6
? Open Project Mixed Project 12m , 2