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Penguins Promenade

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 11
5
AU

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Tomaree Head

The Zawn proper has Peregrine falcons nesting therefore the Back end is closed to climbing from September to December. Port Stephen’s Council has installed parking meters with a 4 hour limit, free after 530pm. $4.50/ hr otherwise. So try car pooling and no point arriving before 130pm, or try and get one of the limited spots in the national park. ACANSW Hunter has written to the council to see if a solution can be found for climbers, similar to the boaties- who can park for 9 hours. Will update when they get back to us.

Routes

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Accessible at low tide in calm seas. Come around rock rib a few metres above sea level and drop down onto raised boulder to belay. Up first crack traversing left to offwidth at half height then up into tight chimney. Belay just below top, and scramble off right

Instead of traversing left at half height continue straight up on massive pocket towards block at cliff top

Start 1m right of PP and go straight up towards wide V chimney. Adequate gear.

2m right of Penguin parade (oceanward), up thin seam and past pod to slab moves. May feel harder on lead

FA: J Wilde/ George F

Start at crack below arete, then continue up arete staying to its left mainly.Would be bold on gear

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Author(s): Tim Haasnoot

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780975129319

An area that has steep sport routes, trad cracks, deep-water-soling, sea cliff climbing and bouldering all within a short drive to some beautiful beaches and national parks is surely worth a look in. The Newcastle and Hunter Rock Climbing guide by Tim Haasnoot is feature packed and includes all the areas worth a day trip from Newcastle. This guide features over 950 routes, 170 boulder problems and 100 DWS with full topo maps and navigation info.

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Tue 18 Apr
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