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Description

A small inlet about 10m high accessed from Wreck Beach. At Wreck Beach walk north onto the rocks. Paradise Beach routes are only 2 minutes further on. Low swell and low tide is the best time to visit. The crag comes into shade at midday. Scattered ringbolts and bolts requiring hangers are on the cliff top and long slings or a static line are useful. You can scramble out at low tide to the north.

Routes

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Grade Route

From hanging belay step left onto other wall then up arete past 2 bolts ang small cams/wires

FA: Jason Piper

From hanging belay go straight up wall

FA: Tim Haasnoot

Traverse left and up past 2 ringbolts, then up arete into slab

FA: TH

Up past threader and spike to bolt then up through small roof (cams) to runout finish

FA: TH

Start just to left of block on platform as for Bung Crack but go straight up the Vgroove for tricky finish.

From higher point of ledge up into alcove under small triangular roof then move right to finish

FA: TH

Straight up wall to roof with tricky moves right into thin crack

From lower part of ledge head up left of jutting block of rock into fused corner. Fiddly small gear up top.

FA: VWills & S Mantle, 2013

Start to the right of the jutting rock heading up to small overlap then step left having pulled up into thin diagonal crack

FA: Brad Williams

FFA: Martin Brown, 2013

Around the corner form TTC is a slightly overhanging corner. Start on slab, being careful of waves and up solid juggy rock to stance, then up friable corner crack to top.

FA: VW & SM

Start 1m right of the corner. Has a tough final move for the top. Some good rock.

The prominent crack on the back of the small amphitheatre. 3m left of right corner.

The crack on the right of the Amphitheatre, no much pro at start then bomber jams and gear.

FA: Peter Grezl, 2013

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