Battery Hill Mostly Sport climbing36 routes in cliff
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The rock is igneous trachyte with sharp edges and pockets. There may still be some dodgy rock, so climb with care. The climbing is generally at less than vertical with steeper sections and bulges for interest. Most climbs have a section of small crystals and crimps to test your faith in sticky rubber. The friction quality is good, except in the lichen areas when damp.
A few pieces of natural protection, some (9) quickdraws and bolt plates are all that is required.
Routes are listed right to left. There are several great learner leads to build confidence and skill. The protection is usually well placed and more than adequate, although bolts are painted to camouflage with the stone so look closely to find where you're going. The first one is usually at about 4m and then about 3m apart.
There are two climbing faces separated by about 300m. All climbs from 'Flat and Useless' are on the second face.
Access issues inherited from Urbenville
For access to The Crown only, not Battery Hill or Vesuvius: It is requested (by the farmer whose land you cross to access the cliff) that you phone him prior to your arrival and seek permission to access The Crown. His name is Mr Jones and his number is (02) 6634 1225. Think of this as a courtesy call which will serve to keep climbers in the good graces of land managers. Please do it. If you should have any problems with this arrangement, post up on qurank.com.
Dec 2013 update: The campsite at Tooloom Falls is the starting point for those wanting to walk to the cliff. The bridge crossing the stream from the Pines campsite has been washed out. It is impassable by car. To walk, cross the waterfall (if possible and water is not too high) and then turn right onto Beehive Rd and follow this for 1.5km, turn left onto Wood Duck "Rd" and follow this for 500m up to the base of the cliff.
To drive, from Urbenville take Clarence Way out of town in the direction Tabulam. Drive for 1.5 km and turn right onto Connells Rd and follow this for a 5.8 kms until a right turn. onto Goongree connection Rd. At the next intersection take another right turn and follow the W sign (waterfall). This will lead you past the waterfall and onto Beehive Rd, follow this for 1.5km and then turn left onto Wood Duck Rd. This leads you to the base of the cliff. The forestry roads are unsealed but you can get in without a 4WD.
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