Site navigation

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Description

The rock is igneous trachyte with sharp edges and pockets. There may still be some dodgy rock, so climb with care. The climbing is generally at less than vertical with steeper sections and bulges for interest. Most climbs have a section of small crystals and crimps to test your faith in sticky rubber. The friction quality is good, except in the lichen areas when damp.

A few pieces of natural protection, some (9) quickdraws and bolt plates are all that is required.

Routes are listed right to left. There are several great learner leads to build confidence and skill. The protection is usually well placed and more than adequate, although bolts are painted to camouflage with the stone so look closely to find where you're going. The first one is usually at about 4m and then about 3m apart. Have fun!

Access issues inherited from Urbenville

For access to The Crown only, not Battery Hill or Vesuvius: It is requested (by the farmer whose land you cross to access the cliff) that you phone him prior to your arrival and seek permission to access The Crown. His name is Mr Jones and his number is (02) 6634 1225. Think of this as a courtesy call which will serve to keep climbers in the good graces of land managers. Please do it. If you should have any problems with this arrangement, post up on qurank.com.

Approach

Dec 2013 update: The campsite at Tooloom Falls is the starting point for those wanting to walk to the cliff. The bridge crossing the stream from the Pines campsite has been washed out. It is impassable by car. To walk, cross the waterfall (if possible and water is not too high) and then turn right onto Beehive Rd and follow this for 1.5km, turn left onto Wood Duck "Rd" and follow this for 500m up to the base of the cliff.

To drive, from Urbenville take Clarence Way out of town in the direction Tabulam. Drive for about 2km and turn right onto Connells Rd and follow this for a few kms until a right turn. onto Goongree connection Rd. At the next intersection take another right turn. This will lead you past the waterfall and onto Beehive Rd, follow this for 1.5km and then turn left onto Wood Duck Rd. This leads you to the base of the cliff. The forestry roads are unsealed but you can get in without a 4WD.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

5m right of Abandonment Issues. Follow left leaning line of 5 FH’s past flake and pockets. Shared belay with Abandonment Issues.

FA: Colin Carstens & Joanna Parker, 2005

Start 3m to the R of original. 2 FH's then up and L into Abandonment Issues.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewelyn & Ben Carter, 2006

Steep start then nice slabby continuation.

FA: Ross Ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2005

Start 5m left of AI. Climb up past approx 6 FHs to DBB.

FA: Stephen Bishell & Mark Churchill, 1999

Start 15m left of Pink Bongo Bunny. Bouldery start to first FH. Continue up wall on easier holds for 3 FH's to dished area below headwall. Take a deep breath and blast up headwall for another 3 FH's to DBB. Some broken holds, might be a grade or two harder

FA: Colin Carstens & Paul Elby, 2005

3m L of Amped Up is a line of 8 FH's. Thin holds through to 2nd FH. Then easier moves to base of headwall. Crimp your way over double bulge while keeping an eye out for the crucial jugs.

FA: Paul Elby & Colin Carstens, 2006

Great, long warm up. Climb through the crux in a corner at just above half height then easy climbing to anchor with fixed biners. Can be done with a 60m rope.

FA: Stephen Bishell & Mark Churchill, 1999

Climb ramp on R of notch to FH on bulge at 4m. Up beside white streak past 3 FH to stance L of "Cat in Nine" corner. Step up L on short vertical wall with ace buckets (FH) to long slab (FH). Chain belay on headwall shared with "Live Contact".

Start on the right of the alcove and follow 3 hangers to steep wall (crux). 4 more hangers lead to chain belay.

FFA: Ross & Annette Miller, 2008

Directly up slab L of notch past 4 FHs. Optional gear in pockets, too.

FA: Darrin Carter, 2001

4m right of "Don't Trust the Bunny". Up past the bunny holes to 1st FH. Straight up crimping your way past a further 6 FHs to chains.

FA: Ross Miller & Bernard Walsh, 2006

6m R of Yellow Brick Road. Up R of the rock orchards, through two steep sections on good holds. Thin, sustained climbing to clip 4 then easier to the top. 7 FHs to chains.

FA: Ross Miller & Richard Callf, 2006

14m L of notch. Generic, but clean slab climbing past 3 black FHs to the base of bulge, which sports the final 2 FHs. This overhung section hosts a vital two-finger pocket and makes for quite a stunning conclusion. Finish at rap station at small stance.

FA: Lee Cujes, Stephen Parker & Erik Smits, 2000

R of Ginsu. Climbs the steep blank wall with the "snail trail" and 5 or 6 FHs, using very few very small crimps. Thin is the word.

2016: The 'snail trail' mark no longer exists - but you can't miss the route. Blankest, meanest bit of cliff that has bolts on it.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2006

6m L of Yellow Brick Road beneath a hard, smooth wall. 2 Bolt runners in the first third (hard to see). Then four FHs to a chain belay.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2002

2m L of Ginsu. Climbs the steeper section of the wall following 6 or 7 camouflaged FHs and a few crimps.

FA: Ross Ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2006

Sustained thin moves between 1st & 4th hangers give way to easier ground. Lay off the huge bollard to 5th hanger. Easy to chains. Solid 17.

FA: Annette & Ross Miller, 2004

1m R of flake. Up through pockets (optional gear) to slab and the first of 5 black FHs. Onto steep section with big holds (FH). Mount wall and pockety moves to reachy FH. Run it out a little to the security of a massive bucket below the 4th FH. Over bulge to last FH and a tricky mantle to hit the chains. Quite run out, could do with extra bolts to make it safe?

FA: Lee Cujes & Gareth Llewellin, 1999

There is a 1m high and 2m wide flake of rock sitting about half a meter in front of the cliff.

2m L of the flake. Up on good holds (4 FHs) to lumpy arête. Nice exposure past 3 FHs to DBB. Rebolted in 2011 by SCQ

4m L of flake. Up the R-leaning weakness past 3 FHs to a stance - quite run out between clips 2 & 3. Step L (FH) and up steep section (FH) to easy climbing (FH) to chains. Rebolted in 2011 by SCQ.

The route is a waterfall after rain.

Squash it! This was Grant's first (and only?) new route. 6m L of CB. Up easily to crescent shape corner (small wires, small and medium cams). Leave crack on exposed move to ledge (FH). Boldly over ledges above to DBBM. Worth the effort if you’re homesick for Kangaroo Point or you carried in some pro and must use it no matter what!

FA: Grant LeLeve & Darrin Carter, 1999

5m R of flake. Was pretty dangerous, now rebolted and an extra bolt and anchor added. 3 FHs.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Up BRs of "Flat and Useless", then go high L to last BR on "Eff-A-Reddy". Continue L to last on ASSOSSISS, then up to belay. Could have been the original intent for FU?

FA: Mark & Ricci Churchill, 1999

Start on detached flake. Clip FH and launch onto wall. Over bump (FH) and follow jugs (FH) trending R. Then up to shared lower-off.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Great learner lead. Pockets 5m R of Itchy. Direct line staying R of runnel past 4 FHs to shared lower-off.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

A line of 5 FH's to the R of Itchy. Thin moves to 2nd FH and continue over bulge on good holds.

FA: Julie Stanton, Colin Carstens & Joanna Parker, 2006

Great learner lead. 1m R of the two pines are 3 pockets that look like Mickey Mouse. Up to pockets and on to next FH. Crux moves to and over the next FH lead to jugs and vertical section (FH). Over this to good chain belay on back wall of ledge.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

The crux provides some interesting crimping up an arete.

FA: Richard Callf & Ross Miller, 2005

The line of 5 FHs behind the pine tree. Finish at DBB.

FA: Alastair Byrom & Ken Cox

6m left of Scratchy is a line of 5 FHs to DBB. Boulder up to 1st hanger from L and mantle onto ledge using a little muscle power. Continue up wall on good holds staying L of 3rd hanger.

FA: Michelle Riedlinger & Colin Carstens, 2006

3m L of Candle Power. Up short steep wall on good holds. Good warm up or for newer leaders. 3 FHs to chains.

FA: Annette Miller & Natasha Laurens, 2006

Tricked into a solo by Sandbag Sam. Up wall just R of tree with large leaves about 15m L of the two pines. At top of wall trend L to start of R leading ramp. Up this to wall 3m from top. Straight up wall. No pro. "Why did you do that?" "Cause I’m stupid."

FA: Mark Churchill

Scramble up short wall as for NASATV to large ledge. At RH end of ledge there is a FH at chest height. Belay from here. Up face to 2 large holes passing a FH (wasps have been removed). Continue up wall passing 3 FHs to chain belay shared with LV.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Start 4m left of NR at RH end of large ledge. Can belay from 1st bolt of NR. Follow line of 5 FHs to shared chains with NR.

FA: Colin Carstens & Bernard Walsh, 2005

Scramble 6m up to large ledge. 1st FH below large hole (wasps removed). Continue through bulge passing 3 more FHs to chain belay shared with NASATV. Be warned of ants at 2/3 height.

FA: Bernard Walsh & Colin Carstens, 2005

Scramble 6m up to large ledge and clip FH on LH end of ledge at head height. Up easily, staying L of dark stain passing 3 FHs to shared CB with "Electrolyte".

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Activity

Check out what is happening in Battery Hill.