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Description

Quality sharp granite boulders.

More info at: http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=area&area_id=2117

Access issues

Apparently a local council reserve, not clear. Surrounded by private land, so be careful where you wander.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V3 ** Mantle Magic Boulder 3m

Reach/jump to nice ledge then up.

2
V5 ** Dry Docker Boulder

Crimpy and technical climbing to a long reach.

3
V2 * #3 Boulder 3m

Crimpy problem on aesthetic rock. Hard to start.

4
V0 * #4 Boulder

Easy up featured wall left of fig tree. Also used to get down of this giant boulder.

5
V3 * #5 Boulder

Start just right of tree.

6
V4 * #6 Boulder

Crimpy and reachy wall a few metres right of fig tree.

7
V5 #7 Boulder

Up crimpy face.

8
V3 ** #8 Boulder 3m

Up the left side of the arete.

9
V1 ** #9 Boulder 4m

Up the high slab on positive edges. Arete is in.

10
V7 *** Post it Boulder

Up twin seems then trend left to vertical slot, up and over

11
#11 Project BoulderProject

Very possible project. Start 1m right of post it. Up trending rightwards to high crux.

12
V5 * #12 Boulder

Sit start to blunt arete trending leftwards.

13
V4 ** Happy Apple Boulder 3m

Sit start on matched hands to the right, then head up and left to top out. Cool moves on sharp holds.

14
V4 ** Hippy Apple Boulder

Left variation of 'Happy Apple'. Sit start then straight up

15
V2 ** Moon Patrol Boulder 3m

Better than it looks. Great funky moves up the left side of arete. May have crumbly rock around arete but comes good with brushing.

16
V2 * Ferntastico Boulder

Low angled slab on solid rock on the right side of the corridor.

17
V2 * #17 Boulder

Nice slab on solid edges.

18
V4 ** Palm Cove Boulder

Excellent low angled thin slab through shallow scoop. More and more footers appear on close inspection

19
V4 * #19 Boulder

Great thin slab just in front of dead tree. Get those feet working.

20
#20 Project BoulderProject

Bouldery sit start proj on good sized holds. Funky and interesting.

21
V4 * Crabbie Pants Boulder

Straight up front face using sidepulls, slopers and crimps. Top out up arete.

22

Stand start on left side of face, up to obvious pocket then head rightwards and up. Left boulder is out. Balancy, reachy and brilliant.

23
V3 * Backwoods Boulder

Up thin and solid slab face.

24
V6 ** Kamakazi Boulder
25
V10 ** The Brain Boulder

Start on poor rail then big move up to slot, then to victory jug.

FA: Oliver Miller, 2011

26
V2 ** Nexus 6 Boulder 4m

Up slab left of pink streak. Trust your feet ...

27
V2 Jabba the Hut Boulder

Up blunt arete slab.

28
V2 ** Blades of Glory Boulder

Up on good edges and flakes. Great rock.

29
V1 * #29 Boulder

Up featured arete.

30
V5 ** Palm Sunday Boulder

Left side of tall arete. Great slab climbing to high and committing crux.

31
V7 ** Palm Oil Boulder

High and delicate. Most likely unrepeated after Shanon the slab master walked up this one. Amazing solid micro footers lead up the middle of the face. Testpiece for budding slab masters

32
V3 * #32 Boulder

Nice edges and slots lead up.

33
V3 #33 Boulder

Nice rock and sustained moves.

34
#34 Project BoulderProject

Nice looking project up high arete.

35

Mantle up into scoop on the lowest and easiest looking part of this boulder.

36
V2 Shantifax Boulder

Jump start and up the jugs.

37
V5 ** Elemental Boulder

Start in seam, then trend up and leftwards.

38
V4 *** Om Boulder

Classic line up beautiful boulder. Start as for 'Elemental' and head up and rightwards.

39
V5 The Roman Nose Boulder

Bouldery start in corner using both boulders to gain comfortable stance on arete, then head up rightside of arete with excellent handholds. A crag classic and a great initiation to highballs.

40

Jump to good edge, then powerful moves put you standing on the first hold, From here commit to high edge and climb up slab. Very much a highball.

41

Jump to jug or scramble up tree to get up onto the wall. Head up the extremely high and easy slab on very solid rock. Maybe dirty when out of season. More like soloing a grade 12 climb.

42
V5 * Cuddle Pie Boulder

Sit start right side of the boulder, up the short arete. Very cool.

43
V1 ** Snuggle Pot Boulder

Up slab in middle of boulder. Quite nice and short. Arrrd with a tricky sit slap move.

44
V4 * Sandcastle Boulder

Sit start and head out and up on pinches and slopers. Good climbing on average rock. Stick to the established holds to avoid rock breakage.

45
V2 * Runnel Boulder 4m

Up the nice looking runnel. Fun side pull, good feet, then reach up.

46

Crag classic of the easier problems. Stand start on crimps, then head up and left to arete to topout.

47
V5 ** The Anticrimp Boulder

Start just right of Naughts and crosses. Stick to the scoop and right side of arete. Excellent technical and powerful moves.

48
V1 * #48a Boulder 4m

Not in the guide. Start 2m left of 48. Tree to get down

49
V2 * #48 Boulder 4m

Nice rail sidepull start to the slab. Be careful using the tree to get down.

50
V5 * #49 Boulder

Up from left end of face on slopers and jugs.

51

Sit start on poor left rail, up on crimps, sidepulls and jugs to the left. One of the best hard lines of he crag.

52

Start as for 'The Big Zee', then head right and up on crimps and slopers. It's excellent. Fingery and powerful.

FA: Oliver Miller, 2012

53
#52 Project BoulderProject

Ultra hard crimp project starting at right end, finishing up 'Dirty Action'.

54
V5 *** $53 Boulder

Stand just right of the arete and up on good holds. Great rock quality.

55
V10 * Strong Geoff Boulder

Hard bouldery sit start on pinches. Links into '#53'

FA: Strong Geoff, 2009

56
* #55 Project BoulderProject

High project on great rock.

57
V4 ** The Last Chapter Boulder

Great featured corner and arete to navigate across and up.

58
V2 * On the Nose Boulder

Up on good holds.

59
V3 ** #58 Boulder

Up well-featured wall on crimps.

60
V1 * #59 Boulder

Nice, easy climbing up the middle of this wall.

61
V1 * #60 Boulder

Opposite '#59'. Easy flake feature takes you up the wall.

62
V2 ** #61 Boulder

Straight up the middle of this nice wall. Quite good.

63
V1 * #62 Boulder

Stick to the left side of the boulder towards the arete.

64
V1 * #63 Boulder

Up the featured wall on jugs and edges.

65
#64 Project BoulderProject

Sit start project with a big reach. Will be classic.

66
V6 ** #65 Boulder

Power up solid edges to easy topout.

67

Hard moves through the seam grants you with a huge jug. Tough on the feet and fingers. Just plain tough.

68
#68 Project BoulderProject

Brilliant project up a nice line. Follow the crimpy crack from left to right.

69
V2 Tufarete Boulder

Great climb with terrible landing. Don't fall. Climb the arete with amazing tufa-like feature.

70

Sit start and head up on small holds.

71
V0 ** Captain's Log Boulder

Up nice shield formation.

72

Small holds on this steep face lead into a big move and easy topout.

73
V6 ** #73 Boulder

Excellent slab with interesting moves. Start on sidepulls and edges up to a jump move, then easy slabbing to high topout.

74
V7 * #74 Boulder

Big moves ou through the roof of the cave lead into nothing unfortunately.

75
V8 #75 Boulder

Tough exit off a difficult face. Grade needs confirmation.

76
V6 ** Shark Fin Soup Boulder

Powerfully up the aesthetic arete with a couple of strenuous reaches. Technical and great.

77
V2 * #77 Boulder

Great moves up the right side of the arete.

78
V6 #78 Boulder

Big moves up this face with no as many holds as you would hope. Amazing rock.

79
V6 Juicy Apple Boulder
80

Sit start on poor left rail, up on crimps, sidepulls and jugs to the left. One of the best hard lines of he crag.

81
V5 The Orchard Boulder

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