Donnelly's Castle All Bouldering 113 routes in crag

Donnelly’s is a special bouldering area, though before that it was a special escape for locals, and before that it has long been a unique area for flora and fauna. Its place as a local spot, and its environmental health take priority. These are more important than our climbing there. If bouldering out there is found to be damaging to the environment at Donnelly’s, or not compatible with the special relationship with the area that locals have with the area, then bouldering at Donnelly’s will cease to exist in the future. This is why it is important for us to be responsible when we’re out there.

Overall, we need to keep a low profile at the beautiful Donnelly's Castle and be responsible and aware climbing stewards. Some important points are listed below – not as rules, but guidelines for responsible bouldering.

Remember, our first priority is environmental care, second is the locals' relationship with the area, and only after that comes our climbing.

RESPONSIBLE BOULDERING GUIDELINES

NOISE

– Respectful Silence. No speakers. Silent power-shouts.

There are houses nearby, and many other park users so be quiet! This is a beautiful peaceful spot so let’s keep it this way. There is somewhat of a culture of playing music at the boulders. Whilst music is great, please don’t use loud-speakers or play music from your phone. If you need tunes to get you psyched for the send, use earphones. Climb quietly and try not to power-shout – it may help us climb and might feel cool – but it’s not a good look and is hard on the ears – especially to non-climbers. Many elderly locals have been wandering Donnelly's, as a meditative, special place to them for 40+ years! Please don't disrupt them with noise. Save the peace!

DOGS

– Keep them at home, or always on a leash if they can behave quietly.

Donnelly’s is known for being a dog-friendly park– being not a National Park – and many of us have brought our dogs here. Whilst it is fun to have your crag dog running around off-leash enjoying the area, Donnelly’s isn’t the place for this. It’s close to a couple properties and is an area popular with the public, not to mention is somewhat of a haven for flora and fauna amongst the surrounding agricultural land.

Dogs are allowed in the area, but it’s best that they are on a leash. Other park users may have their dogs off-leash, but we know better and furthermore - we’re often there for at least 3 or 4 hours, and an off-leash exploring dog is both a risk to and a deterrent for wildlife. A barking dog is also a deterrent for other locals of the park. If you do bring a dog, have them on a lead at all times. If your dog is a barker and you can’t control this – then, please leave them at home (sorry pup).

FLORA & VEGETATION

– Be one with nature, and don’t remove any vegetation. None.

Vegetation and the environment are more important than a boulder problem. Don't remove plants for landings, and don't remove plants off boulders. If a shrub is in front of a potential 3-star classic - so be it. The shrub takes priority over our climbing! Keep the brushing of lichen and moss to an absolute minimum, and only on necessary holds.

LEAVE NO TRACE

– Brush off ticks & chalk, pack out all rubbish, and pick up any litter you encounter.

Like a ninja that comes and goes in the dead of the night, act as if you don’t want anyone to know you’ve been there. Leave no rubbish – this means climbing tape, rubbish, and food scraps (this area isn’t your compost bin. Bring a rubbish bag). Bring brushes to remove as much chalk as possible at the end of your session – tick marks, hold chalk and all! It will not only make the boulders nicer to climb for the next person but will result in a cleaner boulder to look at for everyone.

STAYING IN THE PARK

- Don't stray too far.

The reserve is surrounded by private land, so don't wander off into private land in the search for more boulders.

KEEP EACHOTHER ACCOUNTABLE

– Encourage one another to be responsible, and don't let others cause your morals to slip.

It's easy to be influenced into doing the wrong thing. Stay strong and keep one another accountable, and don't be afraid to inform others at the crag - respectfully - on how they can be more responsible. Nothing's worth a fight of course, but there's nothing wrong with sharing a word or two to give each other something to ponder.

The Responsible Climber

- The only way to climb

If we truly care for access, we must truly care for the environment and other people. It’s in our hands. Responsible climbing is the only way to ensure that we can enjoy great climbing for years to come.