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Description

Quality sharp granite boulders.

More info at: http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=area&area_id=2117

Access issues

Apparently a local council reserve, not clear. Surrounded by private land, so be careful where you wander.

Approach

Turn right off the highway onto Amiens Rd at the Big Apple if coming from Warwick. After about 8km turn left onto Donnelly's Castle Rd. Follow the small signs to 'the castle'

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Reach/jump to nice ledge then up.

Crimpy and technical climbing to a long reach.

Crimpy problem on aesthetic rock. Hard to start.

Easy up featured wall left of fig tree. Also used to get down of this giant boulder.

Start just right of tree.

Crimpy and reachy wall a few metres right of fig tree.

Up crimpy face.

Up the left side of the arete.

Up the high slab on positive edges. Arete is in.

Up twin seems then trend left to vertical slot, up and over

Very possible project. Start 1m right of post it. Up trending rightwards to high crux.

Sit start to blunt arete trending leftwards.

Sit start on matched hands to the right, then head up and left to top out. Cool moves on sharp holds.

Left variation of 'Happy Apple'. Sit start then straight up

Better than it looks. Great funky moves up the left side of arete. May have crumbly rock around arete but comes good with brushing.

Low angled slab on solid rock on the right side of the corridor.

Nice slab on solid edges.

Excellent low angled thin slab through shallow scoop. More and more footers appear on close inspection

Great thin slab just in front of dead tree. Get those feet working.

Bouldery sit start proj on good sized holds. Funky and interesting.

Straight up front face using sidepulls, slopers and crimps. Top out up arete.

Stand start on left side of face, up to obvious pocket then head rightwards and up. Left boulder is out. Balancy, reachy and brilliant.

Up thin and solid slab face.

Start on poor rail then big move up to slot, then to victory jug.

FA: Oliver Miller, 2011

Up slab left of pink streak. Trust your feet ...

Up blunt arete slab.

Up on good edges and flakes. Great rock.

Up featured arete.

Left side of tall arete. Great slab climbing to high and committing crux.

High and delicate. Most likely unrepeated after Shanon the slab master walked up this one. Amazing solid micro footers lead up the middle of the face. Testpiece for budding slab masters

Nice edges and slots lead up.

Nice rock and sustained moves.

Nice looking project up high arete.

Mantle up into scoop on the lowest and easiest looking part of this boulder.

Jump start and up the jugs.

Start in seam, then trend up and leftwards.

Classic line up beautiful boulder. Start as for 'Elemental' and head up and rightwards.

Bouldery start in corner using both boulders to gain comfortable stance on arete, then head up rightside of arete with excellent handholds. A crag classic and a great initiation to highballs.

Jump to good edge, then powerful moves put you standing on the first hold, From here commit to high edge and climb up slab. Very much a highball.

Jump to jug or scramble up tree to get up onto the wall. Head up the extremely high and easy slab on very solid rock. Maybe dirty when out of season. More like soloing a grade 12 climb.

Sit start right side of the boulder, up the short arete. Very cool.

Up slab in middle of boulder. Quite nice and short. Arrrd with a tricky sit slap move.

Sit start and head out and up on pinches and slopers. Good climbing on average rock. Stick to the established holds to avoid rock breakage.

Up the nice looking runnel. Fun side pull, good feet, then reach up.

Crag classic of the easier problems. Stand start on crimps, then head up and left to arete to topout.

Start just right of Naughts and crosses. Stick to the scoop and right side of arete. Excellent technical and powerful moves.

Not in the guide. Start 2m left of 48. Tree to get down

Nice rail sidepull start to the slab. Be careful using the tree to get down.

Up from left end of face on slopers and jugs.

Sit start on poor left rail, up on crimps, sidepulls and jugs to the left. One of the best hard lines of he crag.

Start as for 'The Big Zee', then head right and up on crimps and slopers. It's excellent. Fingery and powerful.

FA: Oliver Miller, 2012

Ultra hard crimp project starting at right end, finishing up 'Dirty Action'.

Stand just right of the arete and up on good holds. Great rock quality.

Hard bouldery sit start on pinches. Links into '#53'

FA: Strong Geoff, 2009

High project on great rock.

Great featured corner and arete to navigate across and up.

Up on good holds.

Up well-featured wall on crimps.

Nice, easy climbing up the middle of this wall.

Opposite '#59'. Easy flake feature takes you up the wall.

Straight up the middle of this nice wall. Quite good.

Stick to the left side of the boulder towards the arete.

Up the featured wall on jugs and edges.

Sit start project with a big reach. Will be classic.

Power up solid edges to easy topout.

Hard moves through the seam grants you with a huge jug. Tough on the feet and fingers. Just plain tough.

Brilliant project up a nice line. Follow the crimpy crack from left to right.

Great climb with terrible landing. Don't fall. Climb the arete with amazing tufa-like feature.

Sit start and head up on small holds.

Up nice shield formation.

Small holds on this steep face lead into a big move and easy topout.

Excellent slab with interesting moves. Start on sidepulls and edges up to a jump move, then easy slabbing to high topout.

Big moves ou through the roof of the cave lead into nothing unfortunately.

Tough exit off a difficult face. Grade needs confirmation.

Powerfully up the aesthetic arete with a couple of strenuous reaches. Technical and great.

Great moves up the right side of the arete.

Big moves up this face with no as many holds as you would hope. Amazing rock.

Sit start on poor left rail, up on crimps, sidepulls and jugs to the left. One of the best hard lines of he crag.

Activity

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