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Table of contents

1. Donnelly's Castle 81 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.882862, -28.559102

Description:

Quality sharp granite boulders.

More info at: http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=area&area_id=2117

Access Issues:

Apparently a local council reserve, not clear. Surrounded by private land, so be careful where you wander.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Mantle Magic

Reach/jump to nice ledge then up.

V3 Boulder 3m
2 Dry Docker

Crimpy and technical climbing to a long reach.

V5 Boulder
3 #3

Crimpy problem on aesthetic rock. Hard to start.

V2 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 * #4

Easy up featured wall left of fig tree. Also used to get down of this giant boulder.

V0 Boulder
5 * #5

Start just right of tree.

V3 Boulder
6 * #6

Crimpy and reachy wall a few metres right of fig tree.

V4 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 #7

Up crimpy face.

V5 Boulder
8 #8

Up the left side of the arete.

V3 Boulder 3m
9 ** #9

Up the high slab on positive edges. Arete is in.

V1 Boulder 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 *** Post it

Up twin seems then trend left to vertical slot, up and over

V7 Boulder
11 #11 Project

Very possible project. Start 1m right of post it. Up trending rightwards to high crux.

Boulder Project
12 * #12

Sit start to blunt arete trending leftwards.

V5 Boulder
13 ** Happy Apple

Sit start on matched hands to the right, then head up and left to top out. Cool moves on sharp holds.

V4 Boulder 3m
14 ** Hippy Apple

Left variation of 'Happy Apple'. Sit start then straight up

V4 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
15 ** Moon Patrol

Better than it looks. Great funky moves up the left side of arete. May have crumbly rock around arete but comes good with brushing.

V2 Boulder 3m
16 * Ferntastico

Low angled slab on solid rock on the right side of the corridor.

V2 Boulder
17 * #17

Nice slab on solid edges.

V2 Boulder
18 ** Palm Cove

Excellent low angled thin slab through shallow scoop. More and more footers appear on close inspection

V4 Boulder
19 * #19

Great thin slab just in front of dead tree. Get those feet working.

V4 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
20 #20 Project

Bouldery sit start proj on good sized holds. Funky and interesting.

Boulder Project
21 * Crabbie Pants

Straight up front face using sidepulls, slopers and crimps. Top out up arete.

V4 Boulder
22 *** I Only Eat Plenkton

Stand start on left side of face, up to obvious pocket then head rightwards and up. Left boulder is out. Balancy, reachy and brilliant.

V5 Boulder
23 * Backwoods

Up thin and solid slab face.

V3 Boulder
24 *** Kamakazi V6 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
25 ** The Brain

Start on poor rail then big move up to slot, then to victory jug.

FA: Oliver Miller, 2011

V10 Boulder
26 ** Nexus 6

Up slab left of pink streak. Trust your feet ...

V2 Boulder 4m
27 Jabba the Hut

Up blunt arete slab.

V2 Boulder
28 ** Blades of Glory

Up on good edges and flakes. Great rock.

V2 Boulder
29 * #29

Up featured arete.

V1 Boulder
30 ** Palm Sunday

Left side of tall arete. Great slab climbing to high and committing crux.

V5 Boulder
31 ** Palm Oil

High and delicate. Most likely unrepeated after Shanon the slab master walked up this one. Amazing solid micro footers lead up the middle of the face. Testpiece for budding slab masters

V7 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
32 * #32

Nice edges and slots lead up.

V3 Boulder
33 #33

Nice rock and sustained moves.

V3 Boulder
34 #34 Project

Nice looking project up high arete.

Boulder Project
35 Lesser of All Evils

Mantle up into scoop on the lowest and easiest looking part of this boulder.

V1 Boulder
36 Shantifax

Jump start and up the jugs.

V2 Boulder
37 ** Elemental

Start in seam, then trend up and leftwards.

V5 Boulder
38 *** Om

Classic line up beautiful boulder. Start as for 'Elemental' and head up and rightwards.

V4 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
39 The Roman Nose

Bouldery start in corner using both boulders to gain comfortable stance on arete, then head up rightside of arete with excellent handholds. A crag classic and a great initiation to highballs.

V5 Boulder
40 You Snooze You Lose

Jump to good edge, then powerful moves put you standing on the first hold, From here commit to high edge and climb up slab. Very much a highball.

V7 Boulder
41 ** High Times at Donnelly's High

Jump to jug or scramble up tree to get up onto the wall. Head up the extremely high and easy slab on very solid rock. Maybe dirty when out of season. More like soloing a grade 12 climb.

V1 Boulder
42 * Cuddle Pie

Sit start right side of the boulder, up the short arete. Very cool.

V5 Boulder
43 ** Snuggle Pot

Up slab in middle of boulder. Quite nice and short. Arrrd with a tricky sit slap move.

V1 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
44 * Sandcastle

Sit start and head out and up on pinches and slopers. Good climbing on average rock. Stick to the established holds to avoid rock breakage.

V4 Boulder
45 ** Runnel

Up the nice looking runnel. Fun side pull, good feet, then reach up.

V2 Boulder 4m
46 *** Naughts and Crosses

Crag classic of the easier problems. Stand start on crimps, then head up and left to arete to topout.

V2 Boulder
47 ** The Anticrimp

Start just right of Naughts and crosses. Stick to the scoop and right side of arete. Excellent technical and powerful moves.

V5 Boulder
48 ** #48a

Not in the guide. Start 2m left of 48. Tree to get down

V1 Boulder 4m
49 ** #48

Nice rail sidepull start to the slab. Be careful using the tree to get down.

V2 Boulder 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
50 * #49

Up from left end of face on slopers and jugs.

V5 Boulder
51 *** The Big Zee / Satisfaction

Sit start on poor left rail, up on crimps, sidepulls and jugs to the left. One of the best hard lines of he crag.

V8 Boulder
52 *** Dirty Action / The Big Zee Right Variant / Satisfaction Right Variant

Start as for 'The Big Zee', then head right and up on crimps and slopers. It's excellent. Fingery and powerful.

FA: Oliver Miller, 2012

V10 Boulder
53 #52 Project

Ultra hard crimp project starting at right end, finishing up 'Dirty Action'.

Boulder Project
54 ** $53

Stand just right of the arete and up on good holds. Great rock quality.

V5 Boulder
55 * Strong Geoff

Hard bouldery sit start on pinches. Links into '#53'

FA: Strong Geoff, 2009

V10 Boulder
56 * #55 Project

High project on great rock.

Boulder Project
57 ** The Last Chapter

Great featured corner and arete to navigate across and up.

V4 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
58 * On the Nose

Up on good holds.

V2 Boulder
59 * #58

Up well-featured wall on crimps.

V3 Boulder
60 ** #59

Nice, easy climbing up the middle of this wall.

V1 Boulder
61 * #60

Opposite '#59'. Easy flake feature takes you up the wall.

V1 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
62 ** #61

Straight up the middle of this nice wall. Quite good.

V2 Boulder
63 * #62

Stick to the left side of the boulder towards the arete.

V1 Boulder
64 * #63

Up the featured wall on jugs and edges.

V1 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
65 #64 Project

Sit start project with a big reach. Will be classic.

Boulder Project
66 ** #65

Power up solid edges to easy topout.

V6 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
67 * The Seamless Unspeakably Something

Hard moves through the seam grants you with a huge jug. Tough on the feet and fingers. Just plain tough.

V8 Boulder
68 #68 Project

Brilliant project up a nice line. Follow the crimpy crack from left to right.

Boulder Project
69 Tufarete

Great climb with terrible landing. Don't fall. Climb the arete with amazing tufa-like feature.

V2 Boulder
70 Thunderbolts Wakeup Routine

Sit start and head up on small holds.

V4 Boulder
71 ** Captain's Log

Up nice shield formation.

V0 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
72 * Secret Santa's Big Surprise

Small holds on this steep face lead into a big move and easy topout.

V6 Boulder
73 ** #73

Excellent slab with interesting moves. Start on sidepulls and edges up to a jump move, then easy slabbing to high topout.

V6 Boulder
74 * #74

Big moves ou through the roof of the cave lead into nothing unfortunately.

V7 Boulder
75 #75

Tough exit off a difficult face. Grade needs confirmation.

V8 Boulder
76 ** Shark Fin Soup

Powerfully up the aesthetic arete with a couple of strenuous reaches. Technical and great.

V6 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
77 * #77

Great moves up the right side of the arete.

V2 Boulder
78 #78

Big moves up this face with no as many holds as you would hope. Amazing rock.

V6 Boulder
79 Juicy Apple V6 Boulder
80 *** The Big Zee/Satisfaction

Sit start on poor left rail, up on crimps, sidepulls and jugs to the left. One of the best hard lines of he crag.

V8 Boulder
81 The Orchard V5 Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
V0 * #4 Boulder
** Captain's Log Boulder
V1 * #29 Boulder
** #48a Boulder 4m
** #59 Boulder
* #60 Boulder
* #62 Boulder
* #63 Boulder
** #9 Boulder 4m
** High Times at Donnelly's High Boulder
Lesser of All Evils Boulder
** Snuggle Pot Boulder
V2 * #17 Boulder
#3 Boulder 3m
** #48 Boulder 4m
** #61 Boulder
* #77 Boulder
** Blades of Glory Boulder
* Ferntastico Boulder
Jabba the Hut Boulder
** Moon Patrol Boulder 3m
*** Naughts and Crosses Boulder
** Nexus 6 Boulder 4m
* On the Nose Boulder
** Runnel Boulder 4m
Shantifax Boulder
Tufarete Boulder
V3 * #32 Boulder
#33 Boulder
* #5 Boulder
* #58 Boulder
#8 Boulder 3m
* Backwoods Boulder
* Mantle Magic Boulder 3m
V4 * #19 Boulder
* #6 Boulder
* Crabbie Pants Boulder
** Happy Apple Boulder 3m
** Hippy Apple Boulder
*** Om Boulder
** Palm Cove Boulder
* Sandcastle Boulder
** The Last Chapter Boulder
Thunderbolts Wakeup Routine Boulder
V5 * #12 Boulder
* #49 Boulder
#7 Boulder
** $53 Boulder
* Cuddle Pie Boulder
Dry Docker Boulder
** Elemental Boulder
*** I Only Eat Plenkton Boulder
** Palm Sunday Boulder
** The Anticrimp Boulder
The Orchard Boulder
The Roman Nose Boulder
V6 ** #65 Boulder
** #73 Boulder
#78 Boulder
Juicy Apple Boulder
*** Kamakazi Boulder
* Secret Santa's Big Surprise Boulder
** Shark Fin Soup Boulder
V7 * #74 Boulder
** Palm Oil Boulder
*** Post it Boulder
You Snooze You Lose Boulder
V8 #75 Boulder
*** The Big Zee Boulder
*** The Big Zee/Satisfaction Boulder
* The Seamless Unspeakably Something Boulder
V10 *** Dirty Action Boulder
* Strong Geoff Boulder
** The Brain Boulder
? #11 Project Boulder Project
#20 Project Boulder Project
#34 Project Boulder Project
#52 Project Boulder Project
* #55 Project Boulder Project
#64 Project Boulder Project
#68 Project Boulder Project