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68 routes in crag

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Summary

Great climbing and afternoon shade.

Description

A few different sectors to choose from with varied climbing. From pockets to slabs to steep pumpy walls perched high up off the deck, whatever you're into!

Access issues

This cliff is inside SEQ Water property, and no access agreements have been made. The fire trail and bushland is publicly accessible and the trails are well used by bushwalkers and fitness nuts. It is best to keep all climbing gear inside our packs to not attract undue attention.

Approach

From the carpark, head through the gate towards the cliff. Follow the trail down until possible to turn right. Follow this around, across a creek bed, then keep right at the first junction and keep left at the second junction. Slog it out up some steep hills, and the turn off the fire trail (to the left) is marked with a small cairn near a large gum tree. Follow this up to the ridge then veer right and down the scree slope and follow it down and along until you reach the cliffs.

Ethic

This is a sport climbing crag. However, helmets are mandatory for walls like Sun Bowl and Ice Cream Wall where there hasn't been a lot of traffic, and extra care should be taken. Please take all litter with you and do your business away from the crag! Stay safe and have a good time.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
12 Do The Line Trad 8m

Somewhere close to where the rock starts to appear on the walk-in. Well before the other routes. Arching corner crack.

FFA: Glenn Ferguson, Gordon Baudino, 2011

2
23 ** Time to Party Sport 15m, 7

Interesting start followed by some fun climbing up the thin seam.

Set by Glenn Ferguson, 20th Sep

FFA: Glenn Ferguson, Nathan Porter, 29th Nov

3
19 ** Party Girls Sport 20m, 7

Starts where the track narrows between a tree and the cliff. Starts up a corner then continues up the face.

Set by Glenn Ferguson, Stephen Cooper, 2014

FFA: Glenn Ferguson, Stephen Cooper, 2014

4
18 Trixster Sport 18m, 7

Hard start and technical climbing, follow the obvious seem to the top.

Set by Gordon Baudino, 8th Nov

FFA: Gordon Baudino, Glenn Ferguson, 15th Nov

5
18 ** Party Time Sport 18m, 8

A bit of thought required on this. Grade may be harder if placing the draws.

Set by Glenn Ferguson, 21st Sep

FFA: Glenn Ferguson, Sheree Ferguson, Nicola Banwell, Gordon Baudino, Ross Ferguson,, 25th Oct

6
3 Valencia Sport 15m, 3

10m or so L of Are We Dancer. Vegetated right-trending access ramp (line of least resistance) to the L side of the Sun Bowl sector (with lower off). First FH at about 10m.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2010

7
19 Are We Dancer Sport 10m

Bolted with FH's and finishing at DUBB. Can be used to access The Sun Bowl sector.

FFA: Glenn Ferguson, Tim Rowe, 2010

8
17 Rock n Surf Sport 10m

2m R. U-bolts to anchor shared with Are We Dancer.

FFA: Gordon Baudino, Glenn Ferguson, 2011

9
16 Tinka Sport 13m

8m R of Rock n Surf. U-bolts. Ledgy slabbing.

FFA: Gordon Baudino, Glenn Ferguson, 2011

10
19 Tinka Extension Sport 18m

Will get you up to the right side of The Sun Bowl.

FFA: Gordon Baudino, Glenn Ferguson, 2011

11
(Gordon's Project) Sport Project 25m, 12

Line of U bolts above Tinka Extension.

Set by Gordon Baudino

The Sun Bowl

The following routes are located in the large orange bowl of rock about 20m off the deck. There are two belays that routes climb from, these two belays are connected via a fixed rope. To do the routes on the left, ramble up the vegetated Valencia or climb Are We Dancer. To access the right belay, you can climb Tinka extension, or carefully traverse across from the left belay station via the fixed rope.

12
21 ** El Nino Sport 20m

Traverse left from the belay (runout to start) past 3 bolts to where the wall goes vertical. La Nina goes straight up. This steps further left. Follow the left most line of bolts up the vertical to slightly overhung wall. Steep, pumpy climbing on big holds and great rock.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, Glenn Ferguson, 2011

13
24 ** La Nina Sport 20m

Shared start. Traverse left from the belay and head up the steep wall to stance. Bouldery crux follows and trends left with an airy feel to an easier finish at anchors over the lip.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, Tom Cramer, 2011

14
** (Project - Glenn 1) Sport Project 20m

Closed. Shares start with the previous 2 climbs. At the good ledge where La Nina goes left, go right into a steep shallow groove with great edgy moves and a brilliant gaston lock.

Set by Glenn Ferguson

15

Climb to the base of the steepness and lower-off autolocker and long permadraw.

16

Straight up from the LH belay past 6 FH on nice orange rock to the break below the steep wall. The business starts here (permadraw). Very nice climbing on interesting features give classic moves all the way to the chains. 60m rope required for the top lower off or 80m to get back to the ground.

Set by Ross Ferguson

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2014

17
26 ** Sun's Out Guns Out Sport 25m, 15

Directly up from belay passing shared bolt, then step R onto ledge. Two close bolts, then into the biggest corner on the wall. Up, then quaker flake laybacks up the steep wall. Fingery crux caps things off.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2013

18
27 * Dusk Til Dawn Sport 20m

From LH belay, climb diagonally right to first FH on vertical black wall. Up past FH’s into orange corner (chosstacular). Directly up the steepo headwall with cool, punchy moves. Feels pretty airy and 'out there'.

Set by Lee Cujes, 2010

FFA: Matt Clifford, Glenn Ferguson, 2011

The next routes start from the right belay.

19
25 *** Water Is Optional Sport 26m, 12

Accessed by climbing Are We Dancer. Climb the smooth orange wall and head into the steep black corner. Steeper than it looks. 12 draws plus anchor.

Set by Glenn Ferguson

FFA: Glenn Ferguson, 2013

20
24 Drinks For The Soul Sport 27m

Climbs Water Is Optional up orange wall to below the break. Traverse right across ledges at this point and then up the steep wall following the line of FH's. A couple of longer draws are helpful for the traverse.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2013

21
21 Spanish Fly p1 Sport 20m

Starts at WIO belay. Up and right passing FH to stance then up the orange wall to a lower off where the wall steepens. The extension past two bolts is 23 and is juggy - go for it!

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2013

22
23 * Spanish Fly Sport 25m

The full version continues past the first set of lower-off's at 20m. Some nice moves on big holds extends the route another 5m.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2013

23
(Project - Tim) Sport Project

Only a few bolts in this incomplete line on the margin of orange and black.

The Gold Coast

This sector of routes is referred to as The Gold Coast and is the most popular sector here.

24
18 Nerangutan p1 Sport 25m, 11

About 20m right of Tinka is this slab route. Bolted with FH's. Slightly runout to where it steepens. A bit adventurous. Chains on right.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, Tom Cramer, 2011

25
16 * Nerangutan p2 Sport 20m

From anchor of p1, walk left along ledge and up easy steps. Follow the snaking line up the orange streak on big holds. Routefinding is the main challenge. Can be climbed from the ground in one 45m pitch with some long slings.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, Glenn Ferguson, 2011

26
19 * Gnarley Sport 18m, 10

Some people find it that way! 3m R. FH's.

FFA: Peter Monks, Ross Ferguson, 2010

27
22 ** Strip Clubs Sport 18m, 12

Slab with some nice pockets (don't you wish this went on for 50m?), then sustained headwall which should make your arms feel warm.

FFA: Glenn Ferguson, Tim Rowe, 2012

28
22 ** Beach Bum Sport 18m, 11

More bouldery than Strip Clubs. Start just right and up the slab (like all routes in this sector). Daunting black overhang then headwall. Where's that finishing jug...?

FFA: Ross Ferguson, Peter O'Halloran, 2011

29
24 *** Budgie Smuggler Sport 18m

The one route on ground level which always stays dry. Climb the first 3 UB's of The Green Room the head left to the line of FH's on the orange streak and blast off. Save something for the finish.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2007

30
25 *** The Green Room Sport 18m, 14

3 UB's up the shallow corner and slab to base of the steep wall with seam running up it. Long and strong moves on big holds up this (welcome, gym climbers) to ledge. Two rings off the ledge then move R into the the sustained finish of Over The Falls.

Set by Lee Cujes, 2010

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2010

31
26 *** Straight To The Green Room Sport 18m, 13

Climb The Green Room to the ledge and instead of going right, climb directly up without deviating past 4 UB's to another anchor. There's a LVF to the chains of Budgie Smuggler at about 24.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2011

32
27 ** The Pumping Jetty Sport 25m

Linkup. Starts up The Green Room to the steep bit, then traverses right across the steep wall passing one camo carrot bolt into the business end of Meter Maids and finishes up this.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2012

33
25 ** Over The Falls Sport 18m, 12

Slab to some tricky pocket pulling. Sustained headwall also not a giveaway. Probably the stiffest 25 here.

Set by Lee Cujes, 2010

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2010

34
25 *** Bikinitown Direct Sport 18m, 12

U-bolts then FH's. Up easy corner as per original, but then straight up the face. Really great pocket moves. Some deviate briefly into OTF just before the ledge which makes it easier. Possible to go direct - both are fun.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2012

35
24 ** Bikinitown Sport 18m, 10

U-Bolts. Up the easy corner to ledge. Clamber onto ledge on right then up wall with cool pockets through steep wall. First bolt on headwall is a stretch, then onwards to glory.

FFA: Lee Cujes, Glenn Ferguson, 2010

36
26 ** Meter Maids Sport 18m, 11

Start as for previous but once off the ground, step right to first bolt in R-leaning black corner. Up this til possible to lean left and clip UB on steep wall. Punchy moves up this (2 UB's) then easier headwall.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2011

37
21 Yule Corner Sport 18m

Page's first bolted route. Start as for previous in the corner. Up the black R-leaning corner then push through bulge on headwall to a large set of chains. The upper wall has some superb rock and should be experienced.

Set by Frey Yule

FFA: Lee Cujes, Glenn Ferguson, 2010

38
23 Yule Tide Sport 18m, 9

3m R. Direct start to Yule Corner on black-painted U-bolts. Unfortunately a bit contrived. But the top is great.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2010

39
22 ** Bombay Rock Sport 18m, 9

2m R. Stickclip first bolt. Independent (and tricky) start up black wall. Once through, romp up to rest ledge. When ready, tackle the headwall.

Set by Lee Cujes, 2010

FFA: Glenn Ferguson, 2010

40
26 ** Drop-in Sport 25m

Link Up. Up Bombay Rock to first bolt then over YT to YC. Shake out then into the pockets of MM and BT to break. Up and across to finish up The Green Room.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2014

41
27 ** Supe Bank Sport 28m, 11

Link-Up. Same start as Drop in but at the break continue up and left to clip the last bolt of STTGR and Budge Smuggler to finish at its anchor. Pumper.

FFA: Ross Ferguson Tom Cramer, 2014

42
18 ** TOS Sport 12m, 8

Short and fun - a popular warm-up. Most find this a pumpy little 18.

FFA: Glenn Ferguson, 2010

43
21 TOS Extension Sport 19m, 13

If TOS didn't warm you up, keep going through the bulge past 4 more bolts to high anchor.

FFA: Sam Cujes, 2013

44
22 Silicone City Sport 17m

FH's. Often wet, but the key holds remain dry. You'll be surprised. It climbs better than it looks. Half a star.

FFA: Richard Binstead, Ross Ferguson, 2011

45
23 The Pink Poodle Sport 17m

2m R. FH's. Slabby start to a corally roof crux. Also seeps after rain.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2011

46
23 Crime Capital Sport 17m

3m R. FH's. Nice slab to small roof. What follows is a non-obvious sequence on scraggly, weird holds. With some chalk on the holds it's about 23. Without, it'll feel harder!

FFA: Krzysztof Maciejowski, Ross Ferguson, 2012

47
21 Dirk Goes Missing Sport 17m

About 5m R. Technical climbing on some unusual angles. Climbs away from the bolt line at one point.

FFA: Glenn Ferguson, Lara Masselos, 2012

48
24 Let's Go Streaking Sport 15m

4m R. FH's. The slanty looking route up the orange streak. Despite some ascents still has loose rock. Traverses well off the bolt line. Be a bit careful on the clipping flake at the base of the smooth wall which is loose and needs glue. Pulling it off while clipping would be bad news.

FFA: Tom Cramer, Ross Ferguson, 2012

49

Closed. U-bolts.

Set by Gordon Baudino, 2012

50
20 Striptease Sport 18m, 7

U-bolts. Up the slab and trend right until it steepens. Shares high anchor with previous route.

FFA: Gordon Baudino, 2012

51
16 What Were We Thinking Sport 20m, 8

FH's up blocky black slab to beneath steep black wall.

FFA: Glenn Ferguson, Ross Ferguson, 2013

52
14 I'm Lichen It More Sport 20m, 8

Nice moves and easy climbing to the right of the shrub. Shares the anchor with What were we thinking.

FFA: Tim Rowe, Glenn Ferguson, 2013

53
14 I'm Lichen It Sport 20m

About 20m R on grey slab. Look for FH's. There's two lines here. This is the left one.

FFA: Glenn Ferguson, Gordon Baudino, Ross Ferguson, 2011

54
10 I'm Lichen It Longer Sport 75m, 14

Climb I'm Lichen It past the anchor and continue right for another 2 bolts and an anchor. Pitch 2 trends right and has 4 bolts and loose rock, the first bolt is about 12m up. Finishes 15m above The Ice Cream Wall. 2 ropes required.

FFA: Glenn Ferguson, Tom Reid, 2013

55
14 * I'm Lichen It Too Sport 20m

3m R. Shares last bolt and anchor of ILI.

FFA: Tim Rowe, Glenn Ferguson, 2012

Ice Cream Wall

The next routes are located 100m to the right of the Gold Coast Wall on the obvious, streaked and gently overhung wall 20m off the deck that comes into view after passing the slabs.

56
13 Sundae Slab Sport 20m, 6

Access for the upper routes on 'Ice Cream Wall'.

Set by Tom Reid/ Glenn Ferguson/ Lee Cujes, 2013

FFA: Tom Reid/ Glenn Ferguson, 2013

57
24 * Meltdown Sport 20m, 8

This route starts about 3m left of Banana Split and climbs the black and white streak to a bulge up high. Slightly similar to Banana Split at an easier grade. (At the moment, until belay station goes in, the easiest way to do this route is either belay from the Sundae Slab anchor, OR go to Meltdown first bolt, Get safe, pull rope and re-toss to belayer straight down. the drag is horrendous otherwise.)

Set by Tom Reid/ Jarryd Blackmore, 2013

FFA: Tom Reid, 2013

58
25 ** Banana Split Sport 20m, 6

From Sundae Slab DBB, up to ledge and climb the line of hangers just right of the black & white streaks and Grass tufts at half height. Great sustained climbing on solid, marbly rock.

Set by Tom Reid, 2013

FFA: Tom Reid, 2013

59
Closed Project Glenn Sport Project 20m

Set by Glenn Ferguson, 2013

60
27 * Stracciatella Sport 20m

From the belay, go up and then hard right. This second-rightmost line of bolts provides climbing which builds in difficulty as you go. Once you reach the undercling, it's game on. While there's still some loose rock on this part of the wall (particularly either side of the line), all the key holds required on Stracciatella are solid.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2013

61
26 * Lickety Split Sport 20m, 8

This route climbs the obvious double white streaks on the right of the wall. To access, climb Sundae Slab, then traverse fixed rope R to DBB on dirt ledge beneath scoop. Edge up the scoop to easy choss ledges (easy does it) beneath steep wall. Clip first FH on steep wall with a screwgate to limit potential fall distance, then blast the wall above. Probably easy for the grade.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2013

Grandpa Cliff

This is the big obvious grey and orange overhang at the top high above Ice Cream Wall. It is still currently under development, but should produce some nice routes in the 20's in a great position! Watch this space.

62
10 Hello There Sport 15m, 3

Rightward traversing line, 3 bolts to the anchor.

Set by Glenn Ferguson, 2014

FFA: Glenn Ferguson, 2014

63
15 Heyward Sport 18m, 8

Nice slab climbing. Good rock.

Set by Glenn Ferguson, 2014

FFA: Glenn Ferguson, 2014

Yorkshire Wall

These next routes are located a long way from the previous routes. Walk for 5 minutes or so until you spot an obvious square-cut, left-facing pillar.

64
16 The Tyke Sport 12m

Climb up the left side of the arete.

FFA: Glenn Ferguson, Matthew Clifford, Ross Ferguson, 2010

65

Climb the right side of the arete on cool knobby rock.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, Matthew Clifford, Glenn Ferguson, 2010

66
21 Bobby Dazzler Sport 12m

A bit of a runout at the top.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, Matthew Clifford, Glenn Ferguson, 2010

67
21 Yorkshire Terrier Sport 12m

Climb the steep start and into the scoop.

FFA: Glenn Ferguson, John Amsler, 2010

68
23 ** Yorkshire Pudding Sport 12m

Bouldery start. Climb to the right of the small cave and push through the fun til the top.

FFA: Glenn Ferguson, Ross Ferguson, 2010

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