Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
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Cairns North Wangetti Pretty Beach Below and Beyond Below | |||||
V3 | ★★ The Slopey Fun Just Stole My Girl Away
Great fun. Sit start carefully above the puddle with hands in the jug rail, throw right for slopers and follow up the arete sloping and slapping until you top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 10 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Crossing The Grater Divide
Sit Start. Pull on using sidepulls and face crimps and trend right following main rightwards seam. FA: Nick Murphy, 10 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ What's Up Doc?
Same sit start as 'Crossing The Grater Divide', but instead just go straight up the easy way. FA: Nick Murphy, 10 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ The Block-Splitter
Gets two stars just for being awkward and funky fun. Sit underneath the central block, gripping the underside blade, feet on whatever walls around you then just thrust up the sides of the 'V' until you can pull up over the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 10 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Pop Culture Reference
Sit start either laybacking the arete, or off the sidepulls. Follow up the arete then trend left to the tallest point of the wall. Was done 3 different ways by FA so however you do it is good! FA: Nick Murphy, 10 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Many Moons Around You
So must be called Jupiter. Sit start with hands on the long flake, heading up the open weakness to top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Tiering This Place Apart!
Sit start between the corner and the long flake with hands in the horizontal break, pop up onto slopers and top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Hugs On Your Own In Iso
Sit start stretched around the arete using the corner crack and flake to pull yourself to the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 2m | |||
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V2 | ★★★ Slap Some Jam On It
Fun easy highball but with a hard start. Sit start at the base of the long diagonal crack at the bottom right, using the pocket and the crack pull up and around the blunt arete onto the face and head straight up the tallest part of the wall, and watch your headspace! FA: Nick Murphy, 10 May 2020 | 6m | |||
V0+ | ★ Reached The End Of Your Hope
Sit start in the bottom of the small corner, pull up and stand into this for a totally necessary hands free rest. Head up past the loose looking block (so far testing has not moved it at all) and then follow the crack up over to the right to then stand on top. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 5m | |||
V1 | ★ Blocked At The Head
Sit start with hands on the sidepulls in the crack with poor feet, move up and follow the crack and top out over the block on top FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 5m | |||
V0+ | ★★ They Treed On My Arights!
Yeah, work out what that name means. Slightly shorter and nicer than some of the others on this block, definitely the cruisiest of the bunch. Sit start on the triangle block, hands on the flat edge with decent feet. Stand up and use the jugs and cracks to get to the crack leading to the small tree. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ I'm Set With My Arete
Sit start with hands on the spike, move up off this to follow up the arete and continue with it as it goes right till topping out. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Delicate Like 10 Delicate Things
Sit start at the base of the thin corner, smearing against the slab to the right. Stay with it and don't pull too hard until you're over the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 4m | |||
V0- | ★★ The Crazy Eighty-Eights
A fun climb to get adjusted to the taller problems of the area. Sit start with hands on the juggy block, press send from this and follow up the arete and crack until you're over the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Atey-Ate A Lot
On the backside of 'The Crazy Eighty-Eights', the jam crack that then trends right onto the face using flakes to stand on top of 'Intersecting Lines Boulder. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V0 | ★★ 4th Verse Of The Traverse
Another great beginners problem, as well as being an easy descent from over the backside from the other problems nearby. Sit start in the same spot (hands on the juggy block at the base of the crack) as 'The Crazy Eighty-Eights' but follow right along the big crack until in the corner. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 5m | |||
V1 | ★ Down Through The Up
Climbing up one of the descents, but a fun addition anyway. Lay off the arete and throw for the jugs above to the right and top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ The View Over The Wall
A steep problem with great moves. Sit start with hands on the horizontal flat edges (shorties may have to crouch start) and punch left to the central horn, using the arete as well and topping out on the very tippy pointy top. Potential for a lower start using the sidepull and adding a couple of grades. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Bed Zeppelin Dreams
Sit start with the thin crimps throwing up to the right to the horn, then follow left along the seam to the arete and top out over the point. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V0+ | Where's The Point?
Juggy short problem on the south face of Zeppelin Rising boulder. Not that great really. Sit start in the base of the corner with various jugs and go straight up to top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 4 Jul 2020 | 2m | |||
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V2 | ★★★ Test The Respiratory Arrest
Sit start around the rounded arete, pulling up off the flakes, slopes until you hit the upside down flake, balancing all the time unto you're onto the good holds at the top. Not sure what the name means? You might know by the time you're at the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Mourner Corner
Stand start by walking up the ramp into the corner crack, follow up this using what you can until over the top. Be wary of the large block at the top though, it may not be secure. There is a large jug just above it though. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Hypoxic Heights
Stand start pulling up onto the face with the underclings, then hanging off the flake crimps until you can reach up to the triangle and pull over the top. Sit down on the top and get some oxygen back into your head. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★★ Baalllddd Spooottt!
For those who've seen the Spongebob Squarepants movie will get this reference. Sit start with the jug block on the arete, go through the opposing holds until onto the broad flat section and work it out. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 4m | |||
VB+ | ★★ Bluetooth Earpiece
Why's it called that you ask? Because you don't need your hands! First ascent done hands free, so why not try yourself! Sit on the boulder at the base of this face, stand up onto the block, then work your way up the edges and knobs till topping out. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Pining For The Ski Slopes
Sit start using the rising crack and aim for the slopers over the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ Should've Zigged But You Zagged
Zigging and Zagging your way across the cracks and then onto the slopes above. Start with hands in the middle of the wall, trend right a little and then up beside the bulge. Sneaky holds all over here so keep your eyes peeled. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Needled and Needless
Start off the jugs in the crack a little up and right of the block at the base of the wall on the left. Head right and then over the angle change onto the slab finding the slopes to make your way out. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 3m | |||
VB | ★ The Wiggles Whaling Troop
Easy as bru! Just don't tell the kids the full name. Wander up the ramp as it gets steeper until standing on top. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V0 | Wiggly Bits & Bobs
None in the rock thankfully! The blades and cracks to the right of 'The Wiggles Whaling Troop'. Sit start going straight up til top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Wiggle And Dive
Sit start using the crimp rail, go from this balancing up and dive for the top. Will be hard for the height impaired. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 2m | |||
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V5 | ★★ Hammer Head
Using hands at around head height near the arete and on the face, use these and hit the two vague holds above, sort your feet out and then drag over the top. Great problem that involves some delicate moves and tricky feet. FA: Nick Murphy, 4 Jul 2020 | 3m | |||
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V3 | ★★ Hammer And Thongs
Sit start a little under the boulder with hands on the rail below the big pocket. Use the pocket, crack and rails to get up. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V4 | ★★ Around The Trist
Sit start just under the arete on the holds in the small break, bust around left onto the face and then work out how to mantle up using the non-existant crack and pocket features. This mantle will make you work for it. FA: Nick Murphy, 4 Jul 2020 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Banging Heads
Sit start on the angled rail and head up through the various holds to top out. Watch the boulder behind you as you get higher. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Discus-Ted Traverse
Starting with hands just up from where the seam turns over the edge, pull up from here and traverse up and left until nearing the very top and mantle out where the crack opens up. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 4m | |||
★★ 53
| 2m | ||||
V4 | ★★★ One Arm Bandit
Sit start underneath the uphill face. Use the sidepull pockets to the right, and whatever you can find for you left and make one hard move to the jug rails. Mantle over the top and call it a day. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 3m | |||
Cairns North Wangetti Pretty Beach Below and Beyond Beyond | |||||
V6 | ★ Ancestral Supervision
Sit start with good edge and low jug, up on some cool pinches and sharp crimps. Stay right of the arete. FA: Callum Mather | 4m | |||
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V1 | ★ Pod Out
Sit start and follow up flake towards the arete and finish over the top FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Left For Dead
Sit start in the flake to the right of the offwidth crack, and follow right until mantled over the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Stuck In The Airlock
Grovel your way up the offwidth however you can using whatever you find in and beside it. Sit start to begin with of course. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Rushing For The Exits
Sit start hanging off the rail and head straight up. To the right of the small tree. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V0- | ★ Perihelion
Sit start below the arete and follow up the cracks to the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Aphelion
Sit Start in the corner crack and follow up using the face holds till topping out. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 3m | |||
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VB+ | ★ Waddle And Blah Blah Blah
Roll on up this bad boy and enjoy the tricky start giving into great jug hauling. Sit or stand start. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Crashed My Tinnie
At the bottom of the ramp there sits this fun little number. Grab the jugs at the bottom right from a sit start and follow up left until you almost run into the cave wall on the left and mantle over. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 4m | |||
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V5 | ★★ Infinity and Beyond
Start low on underclings, cool cross through to an undercling before moving right and up to spooky finish. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
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V0+ | ★ Four In The Hole
Sit start on the uphill side of the golf ball and follow up the sharp pockets and huecos until on top. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V0+ | ★ Hypertechnicality
Sit start in the grass just near the little pillar. Follow up the cracks to the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Nickel And Dined
Trends right across the flakes to almost join up with 'Hypertechnicality'. Sit start to begin with. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V0+ | ★ Nickel-Load-em-on
Sit start with the blocky rail and head straight up into the rising break. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Sweet Barrels
Sit start with the low crack to the right, slap up to the jug and continue on up until over the ramp. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V0+ | ★★ Pitted As A Cherry Brah!
Sit start matched on the flat edge, go up and right to the jugs and slopers. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V0+ | ★ Cracked Boards
Sit start hands in the wider crack and use this and whatevers within reach going straight up. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 3m | |||
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VB | The Easy Peasy Wheezy Trapezeee
Travel either left or right along this, often just a good way to avoid wet feet when the tide is up. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 4m | |||
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V2 | ★★ Wet Knees In My Etnies
Sit start with the flat crimps just to the right of the boulder at the base, bust straight up for the massive jug and continue up. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 3m | |||
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V2 | ★ Ice Cubes
Start in the undercling on the left of the 'fingers' and punch up over the top and whale out. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 2m | |||
Cairns North Wangetti Turtle Creek Beach & Ratchet Bay | |||||
V1 | ★ Mr. Crimp
Sit start left hand side. Work up series of crimps and a side pull mid way. Balancey and some holds may pop. Located near end of track to access beach. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Scenic Arete
Sit start on pocket and arete, up arete before mantling at apex. FA: Callum Mather | 2m | |||
V0 | Scenic Cruise
Start on jugs, straight up. FA: Callum Mather | 2m | |||
V2 | Landfill
Sit start on jug. FA: Callum Mather | 3m | |||
★ The Tip Project
Start on good hold, straight through rooflet via some shouldery moves. | 3m | ||||
V1 | Rat shit
Start with left trending rails down low and climb up arete. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Feb 2018 | 2m | |||
V2 | Slot sluit
Sit with obvious jug, move through slots and interesting moves and into the flakiness (extra flakey, be wary) FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Feb 2018 | 2m | |||
Project
Sit start on large sloping rail. Make a BIG move into vertical slot and top out to the right. | 3m | ||||
V5 | ★★ Railed
Sit start on large sloping rail. Big move to good edge and pockets, through to a blank topout. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Feb 2018 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Warmup
A nice traverse beginning far L end of flat wall, heading to the tip of RH end. Give it a V1 for the sit start on the arete. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 6 Jan 2018 | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Midline
Sit start on obvious edge in middle of flat wall. Move up and top out directly or finish as for Warmup on RH end. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Feb 2018 | 2m | |||
V4 | ★★ Ratchet up a notch
Sit with pair of juggy sidepulls. Up through edge on face and top out directly or as for Breaching. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Feb 2018 | 2m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Breaching
Start sitting and low on good low jug. Move into smaller holds and big move to good high edge and top out. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 6 Jan 2018 | 2m | |||
V4 | Throw another crimp on the barbie
Start low matched on good jug on dark face. Move near directly up through series of crimps on face and good edge (beware - likely to break soon). FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Feb 2018 | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Straight Up
Sit start on the right of "24 slab" and on the left of "its aeret" in the middle of the boulder. Work your way straight up through a series of decent holds. The spice of this climb really only comes from the height. Great for an easy high ball. | 4m | |||
V2 | 24 Slab
Stand start (sit could go) and follow blunt arete up directly to good high edge and through the blank top (keep an eye out for a cheeky shallow mono). Add the headwall for a little extra headiness, or top out left at break. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 17 Feb 2018 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Side Pulls For Days
Sit start to the left "plenty of pockets" you will see a nice side pull. Work your way up that until it stops half way up then finish by topping out the same way as plenty of pockets. | 4m | |||
V1 | Plenty Of Pockets
Sit start on the right hand side of "It's Arete" work your way up the series of pockets and jugs finish with a somewhat exposed overahanging top out. Great warm up with a little bit of height. | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ It's Arete
Directly up the obvious arete from a sit start, with good sidepulls. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 17 Feb 2018 | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Get Your Head Right
Sit start low on really good jugs. Work your way straight up following the seams left to right (all jugs). A fun head game and high ball. | 7m |