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Table of contents

1. Brisbane 1,131 routes in Area

Boulder, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.970895, -27.469074


'Brisbane' is the third largest city in 'Australia' and capital of the state of 'Queensland'. It's situated in the state's subtropical southeast. Climbing in the city essentially means one thing: 'Kangaroo Point'. An ex-quarry in a riverside park right in the city centre, it's some of the most easily accessible rockclimbing in the world.

Aside from 'KP', Brisbane has some reasonable bouldering at 'Toohey Forest' and 'White Rock', as well as a number of climbing gyms, such as 'Urban Climb'. Heading out of the city, there are plenty of crags within an hour or two's drive, including classics like 'Frog Buttress' and the 'Glasshouse Mountains'.

1.1. Kangaroo Point 366 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 153.034115, -27.478170

Unique Features And Strengths:

Urban crag par excellence!


'Kangaroo Point', affectionately known to locals as 'KP', is Brisbane's outdoor climbing gym. It is one of the most user-friendly crags around, with gigantic concrete bollards at the top of the 20m high cliff face for setting up anchors. Perfectly flat grass awaits your bouldering falls. Free barbeques lay in ready for your post(and pre?)-climb feast. Night lights allow you to climb into the wee hours of the morning. The river awaits your...hmm...actually, don't worry about the river. Caked-on chalk, climbers on top-ropes galore, a few chipped holds and bolts, bolts, bolts. Get it into ya!

Since almost every square metre of 'KP' rock is utilised, the routes are of widely varying quality. The crag is most popular with top roping beginners who do low quality routes in the 14-17 bracket. Most of the better climbing is found on grade 20+ routes. The rock is Volcanic Tuff (like Smith Rocks in the US). The majority of routes are bolted face climbs. There are a few cracks around, but they are rare and not particularly inspiring. Generally, the rock has a quarried texture and is often sandy.

The main wall of 'KP' is one long continuous face without any easily definable sections, the exception being the creekbed, bridge and vegetation of the waterfall which divides 'Left Main Wall' from 'Right Main Wall'. One quick way of orientating yourself is to use the numbered lightboxes spaced along the base at regular intervals. The climbs have been grouped into sections based on these lightboxes. Climbs in all areas are listed left to right.

Many of the bolts at 'KP' are newer ring bolts (RB in the descriptions). There are also fixed hangers (FH), as well as some carrot bolts (BR) for which bolt plates are required. Most, though not all, of the sports routes have double bolt belays (DBB) for lowering off. Bollards and rings at the top allow for easy top roping, although a large section of the 'Right Main Wall' is inaccessible due to thick vegetation. Of note if you're planning to lead rope solo, there are bolted ground anchors at the base of 'Pass The Bosch', 'Prickles', 'Kiwi', 'Idiot Wind' and 'Pterodactyl' . There's also a bolted belay halfway up 'Kass' for practicing multipitch. The bolts are maintained by the volunteers of Safer Cliffs Queensland, funded entirely by donations from climbers.

The cliffs face northwest and become scorching hot when the summer sun hits them mid morning, so climb early or in the evening under lights. Outside the summer months climbing is pleasant all day. The rock dries quickly after rain due to the direct sun.

It's easy to be lulled into a false sense of safety at 'KP' with such easy access and all its facilities. However, it is still a cliff and falls of (often large) rocks occur not infrequently. Serious injuries have occurred. Treat 'KP' with respect and always wear your helmet.

Access Issues:

The cliffs are part of the Brisbane City Council River Terrace Park. While the BCC is generally supportive of climbing, issues regarding access and facilities are ongoing. The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is the official voice of the climbing community in Queensland and works hard to improve the situation for all climbers. Please consider joining.


The cliffs are located right beside the Brisbane River, just below River Terrace in the inner city suburb of Kangaroo Point.

The riverside bikepath runs right past the base of the cliffs and there's a CityCycle station too.

The nearest train station is South Bank, about 10 minutes walk south. The nearest bus stop is over on Main St near the River Terrace intersection. The nearest CityCat ferry stops are South Bank 1 & 2 and QUT, both about 15 minutes walk south along the river. The free CityHopper ferry stops at the Maritime Museum (5-10 minutes walk south) and Thornton St (5-10 minutes north). For further public transport information see TransLink.

When it's not busy (during business hours) you can easily park at the base of the cliff. Failing that you can usually find a park up top on River Terrace.

Where To Stay:

While it's tempting to park a campervan in the bottom carpark and live the ultimate urban dirtbag life, the BCC and the police are strict about no overnight camping here. There's plenty of accommodation options around Brisbane, including backpackers for those on a budget.


Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • Avoid lowering off directly through the anchors. All lowering off and top roping should be through quickdraws attached to the anchors. If you are last then rethread and rap off to avoid wearing the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.

1.1.1. KP North (closed) 39 routes in Cliff

Trad, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 153.034778, -27.475832


This is the northern-most section of the 'Kangaroo Point' cliffs, beginning at the stone stairs and continuing north to where the cliff ends near Riverlife. CLIMBING IS CURRENTLY PROHIBITED HERE!

The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is currently negotiating the reopening of at least part of this section of cliff. In order not to jeopardise these negotiations, please do not climb here. Please do join the ACAQ.

Climbs are listed from left to right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Untitled Route 18 Trad 10m
2 International Man of Mystery

FA: Chris O'Neill & Peter Stebbins, 1999

24 Trad 11m
3 Mutant Sea Bass

FA: Peter Stebbins & Chris O'Neill, 1999

25 Trad 10m
4 Trash Thrash

FA: Jonathon Dwyer & Michael Woodrow

14 Trad 14m
5 Dazed and Confused

FA: Tony Young & Michael Woodrow

18 Trad 14m
6 Boys, Bolts and Balls Ups

FA: Richard Henderson & Scott Camps, 1986

21 Sport 14m
7 Magic Carpet Ride


FA: Fraser Chetterton & Matt Tatham, 1996

AID:A1+ Aid 14m
8 * Spack Attack

A direct finish was done by Paul Hoskins at about 25. The name was a tribute to Moira who had her leg broken in an accident on Crookneck.

FA: Michael Woodrow & Jonathan Dwyer, 1986

22 Sport 14m
9 * Raped in a Church

FA: Michael Woodrow & Jonathan Dwyer, 1986

23 Trad 11m
10 ** Tode Mode

FA: Roger Bourne, 1985

24 Trad 11m
11 ** The New Order

FA: Saul Squires & Dave Whitworth, 1993

20 Sport 11m
12 A Dingo Got My Floater


FA: Roger Bourne, Even Bieske & Andrew Barry, 1984

23 Trad 11m
13 Gash Flash (Variant Start)


FA: Roger Bourne, 1984

FA: Solo Roger Bourne, 1984

23 Trad 11m
14 * Gash Flash

FA: Andrew Barry, Roger Bourne & Evan Bieske, 1984

17 Trad 11m
15 Return of the Mankhouse

FA: Reynold Cope & Paul McAntee, 1986

16 Trad 13m
16 Jets Over Jordon

FA: Nick Heywood, 1985

17 R Trad 10m
17 Endoplasmic Exterminator (Variant Start)

FA: Darren Holloway & Jonathon Dwyer, 1985

FA: Darren Holloway & Jonathon Dwyer, 1985

17 Trad 20m
18 Endoplasmic Exterminator

Mick Woodrow's first FA... ignominious!

FA: Michael Woodrow & Eddie Irvine, 1984

14 R Trad 20m
19 Garbage

Possibly the worst excuse for a climb at 'Kangaroo Point'. Neil meerly used this climb as an extended test block for his newly purchased hand-drill and etriers. On the same day he had to rescue a lost student who decided to solo up the white choss to get to TAFE.

Start: A few metres left of big white choss pile.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

14 M1 AID:A1 R Aid 25m
20 Foreclosure V

FA: Unknown ('s), 1980

24 Trad 20m
21 Foreclosure of a Dream

FA: Neil Monteith & Simon Hennig (toprope), 1993

21 Trad 20m
22 Forever Gumby

FA: Steve MacGillivray & Geoff Baker, 2000

19 Trad 18m
23 Miasma

FA: Lee Skidmore, 1999

24 Trad 20m
24 GR

FA: Unknown, 2000

18 Trad 20m
25 EC

FA: Unknown ('s), 1970

17 R Trad 20m
26 Suicidal Tendency

Not pretty and not popular. Neil's first ever new route.

FA: Neil Monteith & Simon Hennig, 2000

19 R Trad 13m
27 Initial Adustment

Simon and Neil intially adjusted about two tonnes of loose rock off this route before roping up for the first ascent. It was top-roped originally at grade 17, ignored for many years (for good reasons) then Neil came back and aided and drilled his way up for practice one afternoon. The remaining hangerless bolts are questionable!

FA: Neil Monteith (FTRA - Neil Monteith & Simon Hennig -), 1993

14 AID:A2 R Aid 15m
28 ** Ode to the Lesser Breasted Droopy Nippled Screeching Wood Duck

FA: Edwardo Irvine & Darren Holloway ('s), 1988

24 Sport 16m
29 ** Rear Entry

FA: Andrew Barry & Robbie Allen, 1984

21 Sport 20m
30 *** Fowl Deeds in the Chookhouse

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

23 R Sport 20m
31 * Wallbanger

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

20 Trad 20m
32 Call the Cops

FA: Dave Whitworth & Darrin Carter, 1996

19 Sport 15m
33 Trolly's Triumph

FA: Geoff Baker & Michelle Spuler, 1997

16 Trad 17m
34 Where's Rocky?

FA: Geoff Baker & Michelle Spuler, 1997

21 Trad 17m
35 Oh Mighty Gumby

FA: Steve MacGillivray & Geoff Baker, 1997

24 Trad 17m
36 Lord Gumby

FA: Steve MacGillivray & Geoff Baker, 1997

21 Trad 17m
37 Gumby's Demise

FA: Geoff Baker & Steve MacGillivray, 1997

18 Trad 17m
38 Bum Full' Pikers V

At the 3rd BR, go right.

FA: Neil Monteith, 1996

14 Trad 16m
39 * A Bum Full of Fists

FA: Evan Bieske, Roger Bourne & Andrew Barry, 1984

16 Trad 20m

1.1.2. Left Main Wall 111 routes in Cliff

Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 153.034342, -27.478173


The leftmost (northern) section of the main cliff at 'Kangaroo Point'. It extends from the northern end of the main cliff at the stone stairs to the waterfall in the middle of the main cliff. The waterfall actually only flows during torrential rain but its associated creekbed, bridge and vegetation make it an obvious demarcation point.

Climbs are listed from left to right. There are bollards at the top for top rope anchors.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 I Tick Stairs ('cause I'm a Loser)

Just in case you feel the need to tick an ascent of the stone stairs at the L end of 'Left Main Wall'.

2 Unknown 20m
2 Short Stack

Buried somewhere in the vegetation L of 'Crap Corner'.

FA: Matthew Bone, Lara Masselos, 2006

13 Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Crap Corner

Start 1m L of 'Earth to Stella'.

Probably not an ironic name. Climb up face to crack at L side of the 'ETS' pillar. Follow crack as it widens and tends R to finish at top of pillar. Shares the 'ETS' DBB.

FFA: Paul Lester, 1996

15 Trad 10m

Lightbox 18 - Earth to Stella

4 * Earth to Stella

Start at base of 10m pillar, about 5m R of bottom of the stone stairs.

Fun pumpy moves up L face of pillar past 2 BRs. Finish on top of pillar at DBB.

FFA: Phil Lawlor, Maree Spinaze, 1995

21 Sport 10m, 2
5 A Quickie Before Dinner

Start 1m R of 'Earth to Stella'.

Straight up R face of the 'ETS' pillar past 2 BRs and finish on top of pillar at the 'ETS' DBB. The bolts are a bit too spaced resulting in a dodgy 2nd clip.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2001

18 R Sport 10m, 2

Lightbox 19 - Devined

6 Devined

Start below steep smooth face about 10m R of 'Earth to Stella' pillar.

Climb series of cracks offering good natural pro to finish at DBB. No mantling or escaping R to ledges. Will need to be de-vined again before the next ascent!

FA: Lee Skidmore, Erik Smits, 1999

21 Trad 10m

Lightbox 21 - More Bolts Than Metres

7 More Bolts Than Metres

Start about 15m L of Web.

Consists of two hard moves left of the bolts. Short, contrived boulder problem on rope, would be a boulder route if the landing was better. Up between small flat aprons on thin edges passing 2 RBs and finishing at DBB.

FA: Brendan Fraser, Craig Pohlman, Mark McMahon, 2005

25 Sport 7m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Lightbox 22 - Web

8 Web

Start about 10m L of 'Olos'. Marked "W".

FFA: Andy Anderson, Dave Whitworth, 1992

17 Trad 20m
9 Brickie's Butt Crack (Left Finish)

Start as for 'Brickie's Butt Crack (Right Finish)', 2m R of 'Web'.

Up following line of 3 BRs. From ledge at 2/3 height, tend L up crack in face (natural pro) to DBB. Start is much easier (12) if steps to R are climbed instead of directly up past the bolts.

FFA: @help,Claudia Ferguson, 2002

18 Mixed 20m, 3
10 Brickie's Butt Crack (Right Finish)

Start as for 'Brickie's Butt Crack (Left Finish)', 2m R of 'Web'.

Up following line of 3 BRs. From ledge at 2/3 height, step R to base of corner then up this (natural pro) to DBB. Start is much easier (12) if steps to R are climbed instead of directly up past the bolts.

FFA: @help,Claudia Ferguson, 2002

18 Mixed 20m, 3
11 * Plumber's Bum

Start 2m L of 'Snake in the Grass'.

Up thin face tending L past 2 RBs to halfway ledge. BRs & a FH in top half, finishes at chains.

FFA: @help, 2002

23 Sport 20m, 6

Lightbox 23 - Snake in the Grass

12 Snake in the Grass

Start 3m L of 'Olos'. Marked "SG".

Tend R up thin face past high RB to ledge and 2nd RB. Continue up cracked face (small wires) and top out.

FFA: Dave Whitworth, Andy Anderson, Marten Bruveris, 1992

20 Mixed 20m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 Olos

Eddie Irvine's first lead... hung himself by his gear sling when his foot slipped placing a nut in the layback! LOL

FA: Ted Cais, 1969

15 Trad 20m
14 Olos (Variant Start) / Olos VS

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

17 R Trad
15 * Olos (Variant Finish) / Olos VF

Start as for 'Olos'.

At halfway, traverse R to meet 'The Olos Slab' at its last bolt and finish as per that climb.

FFA: Tony Young, 1983

19 Mixed 20m, 1
16 *** The Olos Slab

Start below large blank slab.

Scramble onto ledge. Climb up slab then headwall following line of 5 RBs (with an optional nut to protect the moves to 1st bolt). Finish at DBB.

Originally led at grade 25 making use of a chipped hold. That hold was filled in 2000, upgrading the climb to 26.

FFA: Paul Hoskins, Chris Frost, Andrew Barry, 1985

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2000

26 Sport 20m, 5
17 ** The Olos & Crimes Connection

Linkup. Up 'The Olos Slab' to 3rd RB then R to finish up top of 'Crimes and Misdemeanours'.

FFA: Adam Donoghue, Sean Smith, 1995

23 Sport 20m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 * Crimes and Misdemeanours

Start at the R end of Olos slab. Marked "C+M".

Thin moves on slab following 3 BRs then up shallow corner in headwall past 2 BRs to DBB shared with 'Surrender'. Staying true to the route requires staying off both 'The Olos Slab' and the 'Surrender' arete, resulting in a pretty contrived climb.

FFA: Dave Whitworth, Saul Squires, 1994

22 Sport 20m, 5

Lightbox 24 - Surrender

19 ** Surrender

Start at arete 1m R of 'Crimes and Misdemeanours'.

Fine and balancy slab climbing that tests the head as much as the feet. A great climb at the grade, but with some potential for ledgy falls so make sure you're solid. 5 RBs & DBB.

FA: Andrew Barry, Paul Hoskins, 1984

19 Sport 20m, 5
20 * Sa-raie

Start between 'Surrender' and 'Love Hurts'.

FA: Justin Apeggio

23 Top rope 18m
21 ** Love Hurts

Start at corner 3m R of 'Surrender', just L of "NUT" mark (it's often confused with 'Nut').

Up corner past 3 RBs then layback the crux to attain ledge. More challenging moves past 2 RBs to finish at DBB.

FFA: Andrew Barry, Paul Hoskins, 1984

22 R Sport 20m, 5
22 Nut

Start at the arete 2m R of the 'Love Hurts' corner. Marked "NUT", although the actual start is about 1m R of the mark.

Nice climbing with a fun crux between the 3rd & 4th bolts which is tricky for the grade. 6 (well-camouflaged) RBs & DBB. Was originally led with just two bolts and trad. Retro-bolted with permission.

FA: Neil Montieth, 1996

19 Sport 20m, 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
23 Wrath of Grapes (Variant Finish)

Start as for usual 'Wrath of Grapes', 2m R of 'Nut'.

Begin as for usual route but continue straight up arete in top half passing 2 FHs and topping out. Way better than the original route, this is the way to do it!

FFA: Mick Woodrow, Moira Blom, 1986

19 R Sport 20m, 4
24 Wrath of Grapes

Start 2m R of 'Nut'. Marked "WoG".

Straight up past very high BR to halfway ledge and 2nd BR. Scramble R to base of corner. Layback up corner with natural pro to top.

FA: John Jones, 1980

FFA: Mick Woodrow, Moira Blom, 1986

17 R Mixed 20m, 2

Lightbox 25 - G & M's Climb

25 ** G & M's Climb

Start 4m R of 'Wrath of Grapes'.

Up small ledges to very high BR. Continue past 2nd BR to ledge at half height. On up tough headwall past BR & FH to top.

FFA: Gary O'Neill, Maxine Conroy, 1993

22 Mixed 20m, 4
26 Samson's Pillar

Start at crack 3m L of 'Gynaecology'.

Follow manky crack to top.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Smit Bros, 1998

16 Trad 20m
27 ** Saul and Dave's Excellent Adventure

Start 2m L of 'Gynaecology'.

Solo up wall to ridiculously high BR. Continue straight up past 2nd BR to ledge. Finish up hard steep wall past BR & FH and top out.

FFA: Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth, 1992

22 R Sport 20m, 4

Lightbox 26 - Gynaecology

28 * Gynaecology

Start just L of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "G".

Straight up clipping the 2 BRs shared with 'Postmodernist Blues' but keeping to their L. At the halfway ledge step L and climb up corner to top.

FA: Dave Whitworth, Saul Squires, 1992

19 Mixed 20m, 2
29 * Postmodernist Blues

Start just R of 'Gynaecology'. Marked "PMB".

Straight up clipping the 2 BRs shared with 'Gynaecology' but keeping to their R. Mantle onto the halfway ledge then up the crack (medium friends) and arete to top.

FA: Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth, 2000

20 Mixed 20m, 2
30 ** Lesbian Printshop Workers

Start 2m R of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "LPW".

Follow the L tending line of 5 BRs up nice wall and thin slab. Push through the great crux sequence, placing a #2 wire, and top out.

FA: Michael Woodrow, Moira Blom, 1986

22 Mixed 20m, 5
31 Zac the Printshop Worker

Linkup. Start up 'Lesbian Printshop Workers', finish up 'Zac'.

FA: Dan C., 2006

20 Trad 20m
32 * Zac

Start 2m R of 'Lesbian Printshop Workers'. Faintly marked "Z".

Straight up manky 1st half to ledge, clipping BRs on '32A' and/or 'LPW'. Continue up nice cracked slab and corner with desperate natural pro to top.

FFA: Rob Whannell, 1985

20 R Trad 20m
33 * 32A

Start 2m R of 'Zac'. Faintly marked "32A".

Up past 3 BRs to ledge. Up slab then corner with minimal protection and top out to R. Yet another decent climb mostly overlooked because pro is dodgy.

FFA: Evan Bieske, Andrew Barry, Gordon Bieske, Dave Moss, 1985

20 R Mixed 20m, 3

Lightbox 27 - Crossed With No Name V

34 ** Crossed With No Name V

Start 2m R of '32A'. Faintly marked "WNN".

Up steep wall past 2 very well spaced BRs to under overhang. Traverse L around overhang to ledge. Up slab in top half past 1 (2?) BRs to top. Same formula: good climb + bad bolting = few leads.

FFA: Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth

20 R Sport 20m, 3
35 * Crossed With No Name

Start as for 'Crossed With No Name V'.

As for 'Crossed With No Name V' but climb directly through the overhang (currently very vegetated).

FFA: Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth

FA: Justin Appietto, 1990

22 R Sport 20m, 3
36 * Chubba Chips Mods

Start 2m R of 'Crossed With No Name'. Marked "CCM".

Up steep wall past 3 BRs. Run it out to crack with 4th BR to L. Follow crack placing natural pro. DBB with rings.

FFA: Dave Moss, 1984

19 R Mixed 20m, 4
37 Robbie's Robust Runners (Direct Start)

Start 2m or so L of the usual route, near "RRR" mark.

Instead of starting up the 'Juice' crack then traversing L, climb straight up the steep face to join the usual route at its 2nd FH. The usual route's 1st FH off to the R may offer some protection for the start, depending on how direct you go.

21 Sport 20m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
38 Robbie's Robust Runners

Start up short crack as for 'Juice'.

From ledge above crack follow line of FHs L and up. At 4th FH, step R and mantle into base of cuboidal chimney. Continue up this past final FH. The DBB has been stolen (bastards!) so either top out or traverse awkwardly R to the 'Juice' DBB.

FFA: Rob Stewart, 1985

16 Sport 20m, 5
39 * Robbie's Robust Runners (Variant Finish) 16 Trad 20m
40 * After the Gold Rush

Start up short crack as for 'Juice'.

Climb as per 'Juice' to 2nd RB then continue straight up to climb face between 'Robbie's Robust Runners' chimney on L and 'Juice' corner on R, passing 2 RB's. Finish at DBB shared with 'Juice'. Very run out between 2nd and 3rd bolts - needs a rebolt?

Rebolted in 2015 by Safer Cliffs Queensland.

FFA: Adam Donoghue, Paul Saunders, 1993

20 R Sport 18m, 4
41 ** Juice

Start at short crack 3m L of 'Wounded Knee'.

Bouldery moves up crack (somewhat) protected by RB 1m to L. Straight up slabby corner past RB then very long runout up R-tending steps to ledge below corner. Fun moves up corner past 2 RBs to DBB shared with 'After the Gold Rush'. Just barely qualifies as sport - could do with a rebolt.

Rebolted in 2015 by Safer Cliffs Queensland.

FFA: Michael Woodrow, Martin Lama, 1993

20 R Sport 18m, 4
42 Keyhole

FA: Michael Woodrow & Martin Lama

18 Trad 18m

Lightbox 28 - Wounded Knee

43 * Wounded Knee

Start at the "WK" mark.

Up past 4 BRs then natural pro in second half. DBB.

FA: John Jones, Bernie Corfield, 1980

FFA: Rob & Cath Whannell, 1985

18 Mixed 18m, 3
44 Breakfast At Tiffanys

If you enjoy awkward moves above crap gear then this one's right up your alley.

FA: Mark Gamble, Ron Collett, Dan Roe, Proude Hawkins, 2008

15 R Trad 23m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
45 Burning Fragment

Start as for 'Nightfell'.

A more direct version of 'Nightfell' which goes straight through the overhang rather than skirting around it. 2 FHs, though they provide next to no protection at the crux where the potential for a nasty ledge fall is high. Top rope advised.

FFA: Neil Montieth, Martin Blumen, 1995

21 R Mixed 18m, 2
46 Nightfell

Start 3m R of 'Wounded Knee'. Faintly marked "N".

Up layback to ledge below overhang. Traverse R to avoid overhang, briefly joining 'Mank Mistress', before tending back L above overhang. Continue to top. Run out in parts.

FFA: Rick White, Mal Gordon, 1968

13 Trad 18m
47 Mank Mistress

Start 2m L of 'Pass the Bosch'.

Originally climbed on top rope in the 60s, 'Mank Mistress' was anonymously retrobolted into a seemingly well protected sport route in about 2010. However careful inspection in 2014 (triggered by the anonymous bolting of 'Breakfast At Tiffanys') revealed substandard bolting and the bolts were removed. Awaiting rebolting, top rope only for now.

FA: Rick White, 1969

18 Top rope 18m

Lightbox 29 - Pass the Bosch

48 * Pass the Bosch

Start 2m L of 'Vegemite'.

Good climb with sustained moves up nice rock. 6 RBs & DBB. There's a ground anchor just L of the base for lead rope soloing.

FFA: Dave Whitworth, Michael Long, 2000

17 Sport 18m, 6
49 Vegemite

Start at the "V" mark.

Up using BR and natural pro to FH and crux at half height. Traverse R and up past BR to top.

FFA: Ross Denington, Darrin Carter, 1996

18 Mixed 18m, 3
50 ** Prickles

Start 2m R of 'Vegemite' below the nice looking overhang.

Excellent sustained climbing with a great crux sequence through the overhang. 5 RBs then 2 FHs and DBB. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

FA: Unknown, 2003

21 Sport 18m, 7

Lightbox 30 - Radioactive Cheerio

51 Radioactive Cheerio (Direct) / Radioactive Cheerio D

Start as for original 'Radioactive Cheerio'.

Instead of traversing R at 2nd bolt, climb straight up the headwall past a FH. Continue up cracked pillar with natural pro to top.

FFA: Darrin Carter, Dave Whitworth, 1995

17 R Mixed 18m, 3
52 Radioactive Cheerio

Start 2m R of 'Prickles', 2m L of 'Ego'. Faintly marked "RC".

Straight up to BR. Traverse R past BR to mantle move & FH shared with 'Ego'. From here tend L to climb up cracked pillar with natural pro to top.

FFA: Darrin Carter, Dave Whitworth, 1995

15 Mixed 18m, 3
53 Ego (Left Variant) / Ego LHV

Start as for original 'Ego'.

Instead of finishing up the slab, climb corner to L with natural pro. Top out.

FA: Paul Lester, 1996

18 Mixed 18m, 3
54 Ego

Start 2m L of 'Silly or Serious'. Marked "EGO".

Up past BR to stance. Place #1 RP then up small corner on L to FH. Step R to face then up past BR to below slab. Thin moves up slab past 2 FHs and top out.

Yet another example of a 'KP' "trad" route that would benefit from being fully bolted.

FFA: Neil Monteith, Dave Whitworth, 1996

23 Mixed 20m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
55 Silly or Serious

Start 2m L of 'Halva'. Faintly marked "SOS".

Nondescript bottom section with fun, airy finish. 5 RBs to DBB shared with 'Halva'.

FFA: Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth, 1993

19 Sport 18m, 5
56 Dream Killer

Traverse. Start at 'Halva'.

Four pitch traverse finishing up 'The Olos Slab'.

FA: Neil Monteith, Mark Bennett, 1995

21 Trad 110m
57 ** Halva

Start 2m L of 'Kiwi'. Marked "H".

Brilliant moves all the way to the top. Best grade 16 at the cliff. First bolt is a little high but the moves up to it are solid. 5 FHs to DBB shared with 'Silly or Serious'.

FFA: Dave Whitworth, Saul Squires, 1992

16 Sport 20m, 5

Lightbox 31 - Kiwi

58 * Kiwi

Start at the "K" mark.

Nice moves through a thin crux sequence. First bolt is very high (hence the "R" rating). 5 FHs & DBB. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

FFA: Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth, 1992

20 R Sport 18m, 5
59 Another Faustian Dilemma (Left) / Kiwi RHV

Start as for 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Right)', 3m R of 'Kiwi'.

Straight up past 3 FHs then head L to BR (a bit run out). Up fun juggy bulge then move R along ledge to arete. Either finish up this past 2 BRs to top or traverse R to DBB on 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Right)'.

Prior to 2004 this climb started up 'Kiwi' and was known as "Kiwi RHV".

FFA: Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth, 1992

FFA: Lee Skidmore, 2004

18 Sport 18m, 6
60 Another Faustian Dilemma (Right) / Another Faustian Dilemma

Start as for 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Left)', 3m R of 'Kiwi'.

Straight up past 3 FHs then head R past BR to roof. Clip FH just above roof and crank through crux (climbing R around roof is a much easier climb). Once above roof, either run it out straight up easy corner to DBB on ledge or move L around arete to join 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Left)', finishing up past 2 BRs to top.

Prior to 2004 this climb traversed in from 'Kiwi'.

FFA: Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth, 1993

FFA: Lee Skidmore, Chris Gibson, 2004

21 Sport 18m, 5
61 Salt Sity Waltz

Obsolete but included for historical/confusion reasons. Disappeared after a fig tree grew nearby. 'Tiger Stripe' covers this part of the wall.

FA: Bernie Corfield & John Jones (Top Rope), 1980

15 Trad 18m
62 Tiger Stripe

Start at "TS" mark.

Trend L past 3 FHs then back R again past 4th FH to join 'Tiger's Tail' for final FH & shared DBB.

FA: Bernie Corfield, John Jones, 1980

FFA: Lee Skidmore, Sam Coles, Chris Gibson, 2004

15 Sport 18m, 5

Lightbox 32 - Tiger's Tail

63 Tiger's Tail

Start 2m R of 'Tiger Stripe'.

Straight up past 5 FHs to DBB. Last FH & DBB shared with 'Tiger Stripe'.

FA: Guy Pearce, Cass Crane, Ross Ferguson, 2004

14 Sport 18m, 5
64 Tiger's Eye

Start 2m R of 'Tiger's Tail'. Marked "TE".

Straight up past 2 BRs (1st is high) to drill hole. Sling drill hole and continue past final BR to DBB.

FFA: Darrin Carter, 2000

17 R Mixed 18m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
65 Slippery When Wet

Start 2m R of 'Tiger's Eye'.

Up to very high FH below overhang. Through overhang then past 3 BRs on wall above and top out.

FFA: Darrin Carter, Adam Donoghue, 1994

17 R Sport 18m, 4
66 Wind in the Willows

Start 2m R of 'Slippery When Wet', 4m R of 'Tiger's Eye'.

Good climbing but beware the run out to the 2nd bolt. 5 BRs. No DBB so top out required.

FFA: Darrin Carter, Darren Watter, 1993

15 R Sport 18m, 5

Lightbox 33 - Crap

67 Crap

Start 2m R of 'Wind in the Willows'. Marked "C".

Decent beginner lead well-protected by 6 BRs. Top out.

FFA: Darrin Carter, John Hattink, 1993

14 Sport 18m, 6
68 Malcontent

Start just R of 'Crap'. Marked "M".

Straight up using the bolts on 'Crap' but keeping to their R. Top out.

FFA: Darrin Carter, 1993

14 Sport 18m, 6
69 Razor

FA: Darrin Carter & Ross Denington, 1996

16 Sport 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
70 Untouched

Start 1m R of 'Razor'. Marked "UN".

Follow line of 2 BRs, then a FH, then another BR. Top out.

FFA: Darrin Carter, Adam Donoghue, 1993

16 Sport 18m, 4
71 Dirty Situations

Start 2m R of 'Untouched'. Marked "DS".

Up past 2 BRs to overhang. Reach out and clip fixed carabiner on lip of overhang. Mantle then up easily past another BR and top out.

FFA: Darrin Carter, Adam Donoghue, 1993

16 Sport 18m, 4
72 * Saturn Return

Traverse. Start at 'Insomnia'.

Up to 1st bolt on 'Insomnia' then traverse L to 1st BR on 'Slippery When Wet'. Continue up and L to 3rd bolt of 'Kiwi' and finish up this to chains.

FFA: Saul Squires, Dave Whitworth, 1992

19 Sport 30m

Lightbox 34 - Insomnia

73 Insomnia

Start 2m R of 'Dirty Situations'. Marked "I".

Way too runout as a sport route so take trad gear. For example, potential big groundfall before 3rd bolt can be protected with a small cam such as a C3. 4 RBs and DBB.

FFA: Andy Anderson, Dave Whitworth, Saul Squires, 1992

15 Mixed 18m, 4
74 Gungle Gim

FA: Darrin Carter, 1993

14 Trad 18m
75 Gungle Gim Right

FA: Dave 'Baldrick' Chapman, 1995

12 Trad 18m
76 Zoro

The left tending crack.

FA: Marcus T O'Mara, 1994

12 Trad 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Lightbox 35 - Stephen's Eyeful Tower

77 Stephen's Eyeful Tower

Start 1m L of 'Bottle Stopper'.

Up past 5 BRs and top out.

FFA: Neil Monteith, Mark Burnett, 1995

14 Sport 18m, 5
78 Bottle Stopper

Start at "BS" mark.

Nice easy sport lead. 4 RBs & DBB.

FFA: Neil Monteith, Mark Burnett, 1995

15 Sport 18m, 4
79 Street Ruffians

Start 1.5m R of 'Bottle Stopper'. Marked "SR".

Trad route with some BRs. Probably harder than grade suggests.

FA: Darrin Carter, David Wright, 1995

15 R Mixed 18m, 3
80 Slow Cure

Start 2m L of 'Standing Room Only'.

Up past 5 RBs to ledge at 2/3 height. Finish up 'SRO', clipping its last RB before reaching shared DBB. Crux is getting over bulge at 5th bolt - tricky, somewhat confusing and likely harder than grade suggests.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2005

17 R Sport 18m, 6
81 Standing Room Only

Start at "SRO" mark.

Hard start to 1st bolt then continues much more easily. 5 RBS to DBB.

FA: David Whitworth, Michael Long, 1994

16 Sport 18m, 5

Lightbox 36 - Without Council Approval

82 Without Council Approval

Start 2m R of 'Standing Room Only'.

Follow L-trending line of 5 RBs, finishing at 'SRO' DBB.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Claudia Ferguson, 2005

16 Sport 18m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
83 Slime Fresh

Start 4m R of 'Standing Room Only'. Marked "SF".

Follows the obvious finger crack to top. One of the best trad routes at 'KP'.

FA: Eddie Irvine, 1984

16 Trad 18m
84 Pentennial Romanticide

Start midway between 'Slime Fresh' & 'David Mac'.

Follow line of 5 RBs to DBB.

FFA: Adam Gibson, Ria Zoeller, 2009

14 Sport 18m, 5
85 David Mac

Start 1m L of 'Cornflake Crack'. Marked "DM".

Named after a climber killed on Crookneck. Climb up slinging drill hole, then follow line of 3 RBs to DBB. Originally led as a trad route but has been retrobolted.

FA: Neil Monteith, Mark Bennett, 1995

15 Mixed 18m, 3
86 Cornflake Crack

Start at the base of the deep crack.

Follow the right-tending crack until it runs out then head straight to the top. Minimal protection, especially higher up.

FA: Glenn Sharrock, Loretta Davis, Brett Henderson, 1995

14 R Trad 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Lightbox 37 - Smog

87 Smog

Start 3m R of 'Cornflake Crack'. Marked "S".

FA: Tony Howes, Bernie Corfield, 1980

14 Trad 18m
88 The Hyena's Heinie (Variant Start)

Start 2m L of the usual 'The Hyena's Heinie' start.

An alternate start to 'The Hyena's Heinie' which makes it very slightly harder. Up steep blocky arete past 2 RBs before joining the usual line at its 3rd bolt.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson

14 Sport 18m, 5
89 The Hyena's Heinie / MB

Start 2m L of 'The Lemur's Femur' (which is faintly marked "SI").

Up past 5 RBs to DBB. Was known as "MB" before being bolted.

Set by Ross Ferguson Gareth Llewellin, 2006

13 Sport 18m, 5

Lightbox 38 - The Lemur's Femur

90 The Lemur's Femur / SI

Start at the faint "SI" mark.

Up past 6 RBs to DBB. Was known as "SI" before being bolted.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2006

14 Sport 18m, 6
91 The Trad Rebellion

Start 1.5m to L of 'The Bee's Knees'.

Up trad line with 3-4 nut placements. Finish at "The Bee's Knees' DBB.

FA: Alex Combes, Dave Fitzgibbon, 2006

13 Trad 16m
92 The Bee's Knees

Start 3m R of 'The Lemur's Femur' (which is faintly marked "SI").

Up past 5 RBs to ledge, then L to DBB.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Kevin Coleman, Ross Ferguson, 2005

16 Sport 16m, 5
93 The Duck's Nuts

Start 1.5m L of 'Date Anatomy'.

Climb past 5 RBs then mantle awkwardly onto ledge and finish at DBB shared with 'Date Anatomy'.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, Kevin Coleman, 2005

14 Sport 16m, 5
94 The Duck's Anatomy

Start at 'The Duck's Nuts'.

Trad line near 'The Duck's Nuts' and 'Date Anatomy'.

FA: Mark Gamble, Damien Vladas, 2009

13 Trad 18m
95 Date Anatomy / The Ant's Pants

Start at the "DA" mark.

Great beginner lead. Up arete following 4 RBs to DBB.

FA: Marcus O'Mara, 1994

FFA: Kevin Coleman, Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, 2005

12 Sport 16m, 4

Lightbox 39 - Dinosaur

96 * Dinosaur

Start 2m R of 'Date Anatomy'.

Easy climbing past 5 FHs then crux dyno move over big overhang. Straying R at the overhang onto 'Ring Around the Moon' makes it much much easier.

FA: Craig Pohlman, Robert Audsley, 2005

23 Sport 15m, 5
97 Ring Around the Moon

Start 1m R of 'Dinosaur'. Marked "RAM".

Up arete to overhang then escape R and top out.

FA: Bernie Corfield, John Jones, 1980

16 Top rope 18m
98 Lost in Space

Start at obvious crack 3m R of 'Ring Around the Moon'.

Up crack to overhang. Over this (crux) and top out to R.

FA: Glenn Sharrock, G. Harden, 1995

17 Trad 18m
99 * Pre Menstrual Tendons

Start 1m R of 'Lost in Space'. Marked "PMT".

Very high 1st bolt. 5 RBs and DBB. The section up to the first bolt can be protected with a tricam in the pocket, and a small cam in the slot as you pull over the bulge.

FA: Martin Lama, Michael Woodrow, 1993

22 R Sport 18m, 5

Lightbox 40 - Froth

100 * Froth

Start up the gap between the overhangs, 2m R of 'Pre Menstrual Tendons'.

Easy climbing past 2 BRs then flake with natural pro. Finish over crux overhang with 2 BRs and top out.

FA: Martin Lama, Michael Woodrow, 1993

22 R Mixed 18m, 4
101 Keepings Off

Start below the overhang midway between 'Froth' and 'Arrow'.

Straight up, keeping off 'Froth' and 'Arrow'.

20 Top rope 18m
102 Arrow

Start at the "A" mark just below the drill hole.

First bolt is very high. Slinging the drill hole offers some protection but still take care not to fall while clipping. 4 RBs & DBB.

FFA: Michael Woodrow, Martin Lama, 1993

19 R Sport 18m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
103 * Blue Veined Custard Shooter

Start at crack 2m R of 'Arrow'.

Good climbing but very bold on lead. Up crack then push past overhang to ledge. Finish up unprotected wall.

FA: John Hattink, Darrin Carter, 1993

20 X Trad 18m
104 Valve Replacement Technicians

Start 2m L of 'FOBS'.

6 RBs. Shares final RB & DBB with 'FOBS'.

FA: Graham Page, Adam Dodson, 2007

20 Sport 18m, 6

Lightbox 41 - FOBS

105 * Far Out Brussel Sprout / FOBS

Start at the "FOBS" mark.

Hard overhung start then more easily up past 6 RBs to DBB.

FA: Darrin Carter, Adam Donoghue, 1993

20 Sport 13m, 6
106 * Move Over Brussel Sprout / MOBS

Start at the "MOBS" mark, 2m R of 'FOBS'.

Bouldery start and a little bit run out. Make sure to tend L after 4th bolt. 4 FHs plus an optional BR to protect the awkward reach back to clip the DBB.

FA: Dave Whitworth, Saul Squires, 1994

20 Sport 18m, 4
107 Mr Plow

Start 2m R of 'MOBS'.

Looks just like a sport route until you realise how runout it is between the 3rd & 4th bolts and start wishing you'd brought some trad gear. 5 FHs & DBB.

FA: Craig Pohlman, 2005

19 R Mixed 18m, 5
108 That Boy Needs Therapy.

Start 5m R of 'MOBS'.

A popular beginner lead that gets harder as you go up. 4 RBs and DBB.

14 Sport 15m, 4

Lightbox 42 - Manacubus

109 Manacubus

Start 1m R of 'That Boy Needs Therapy', 3m L of 'Plunging for Mudbunnies'.

Up past 2 BRs then clip fixed carabiner at lip of overhang. Mantle onto ledge with DBB.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Erik Smits, Phillippa Newton, 1999

19 Sport 16m, 3
110 * Plunging for Mudbunnies

Start at drillhole 2m L of 'Tuesday Afternoon Walk'.

Hard boulder start up drillhole then straight up past 3 FHs to below overhang. Awkward reach out to 4th FH and lip of overhang. Mantle onto ledge with DBB.

FFA: Andrew Mason

19 Sport 18m, 4
111 Tuesday Afternoon Walk

Start just L of the waterfall. Marked "TA".

Manky trad crack.

FA: Unknown, 1980

16 R Trad 18m

1.1.3. Right Main Wall 134 routes in Cliff

Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 153.033384, -27.480200


The rightmost (southern) section of the main cliff at 'Kangaroo Point'. It extends from the waterfall in the middle of the main cliff to the southern end of the main cliff at the metal stairs. The waterfall actually only flows during torrential rain but its associated creekbed, bridge and vegetation make it an obvious demarcation point.

Climbs are listed from left to right. There are bollards at the top for top rope anchors.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Lightbox 44 - Frontier Psychiatrist

1 Waterfall

Start as for 'Frontier Psychiatrist'.

Only if it has been dry for weeks. Up 'Frontier Psychiatrist' for first 3 bolts, putting a long runner (1.5m) on the third. Traverse L over choss, clip FH at start of waterfall bulge and up past another FH to anchor on ledge. Use all your ninja skills retrieving your clips.

FA: Alex Combes, Brendan Fraser, Josh Combes, 2006

22 Sport 15m, 5
2 Frontier Psychiatrist / Frontier Psychiatry

Start at first line of bolts R of waterfall, 5m L of 'Junket'.

Nice crux start then follow line of 5 RBs just L of the tree to DBB. Relatively shady which is great on hot afternoons but then it does take a while to dry out after rain.

The 2013 SE Queensland guidebook lists this climb as 'Frontier Psychiatry'.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2006

16 Sport 16m, 5
3 Eddie Goes to Gay Bars P1

Traverse. Start at 'Frontier Psychiatrist'.

An alternate start to the 'Eddie Goes to Gay Bars' traverse which adds an extra pitch. Traverse R from 3rd bolt on 'Frontier Psychiatrist' to 3rd bolt on 'Idiot Wind' to join the usual 'Eddie Goes to Gay Bars'.

FA: Mark Gamble, Michael Woodrow, 2006

17 Trad 35m
4 Initial Public Offering

Trad line between 'Frontier Psychiatrist' and 'Junket'? Doesn't look great.

FA: Mark Gamble, Dave Duffy, 2007

12 Trad 22m
5 Junket

Start 2m L of 'Pink Berets'.

Up L-trending line of 5 RBs to anchors. Not great rock and pretty dirty.

FA: Rocky

21 Sport 17m, 5
6 Violet Berets

Variant finish to 'Pink Berets'. Break left at 3rd bolt, finish at same anchors. Could possibly have another bolt and its own anchors.

FA: Patrick Simon, Andrew Grosser, Fraser Pocknee, Nathaniel Mitchell, 2013

21 Sport 15m, 4
7 * Pink Berets

Start 2m L of 'Bouncy Castle'.

Up past 2 FHs to break. Overcome loose section past FH to drillhole overhang and final FH. Interesting crux pulling over this to slab and rap station.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Samantha Coles, 2003

21 Sport 15m, 4

Lightbox 45 - Bouncy Castle

8 Bouncy Castle / BC

Start 2m L of 'Pommy Bastard'.

Follow the line of 4 RBs to DBB. The crux is a difficult onsight but much easier on repeat.

FA: Unknown, 1980

23 Sport 18m, 4
9 Busted Xylophone / BX

Start as for 'Bouncy Castle'.

First 2 bolts of 'Bouncy Castle' then out R to trad crack. Finish at the 'Bouncy Castle' anchor.

FFA: Unknown, 1980

22 R Mixed 18m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 Pommy Bastard

Start at the "PB" mark.

Ledges and crap rock in parts but still has some nice moves on it. Well protected and pretty easy for the grade. 5 RBs and DBB.

First ascent was done in drizzling rain with a visiting American climber that washed into Mountain Designs when Mick was working there.

FA: Michael Woodrow, visiting female climber...

20 Sport 18m, 5
11 * The Rasp

Start 5m R of 'Pommy Bastard'. Marked "R".

Boulder start ('The Exterminator') to very high BR. Past further 3 BRs and finish at 'Dare to Dream' anchors.

FA: Mike Johnston, 1984

21 R Sport 18m, 4
12 Dolerite Dreaming

Start 2m R of 'The Rasp'. Marked "DD".

More or less rebolted as 'Dare to Dream'. Straight up past 2 RBs, then sling the drill hole at 2/3 height. Original route might have continued L to join the final two BRs on 'The Rasp'.

FFA: Gordon Bieske, Richard Marshall, Paul McAntee

21 R Mixed 18m, 4
13 Dare to Dream

Start as for 'Dolerite Dreaming'.

Essentially a rebolt of 'Dolerite Dreaming', maybe with a more direct finish. Up past two RBs and sling the drill hole. Continue straight up past two more RBs, traverse L under the roof and run it out to the anchor.

Set by Steve Kloske, 2013

FFA: Steve Kloske, Oskar Kindbom, 2013

22 Mixed 18m, 4

Lightbox 46 - Kass

14 Kass / Kasper

Start 2m L of 'Bombadil'.

First top roped as 'Kasper' in the '70s at grade 16, the passing decades and a passing Bosch have seen it evolve into a grade 21 sport route. 6 RBs, chains.

A DBB at the 4th bolt allows it to be climbed in 2 (admittedly very short) pitches, great for practicing multipitch skills in a safe environment.

FA: John Webb, Rob Brodribb (top rope), 1975

FFA: Steve Kloske, Adam Gibson, 2013

21 Sport 18m, 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
15 Bombadil

Start 2m L of 'Tombstone Row'. Marked "B".

A fun, well-protected KP sport route. 5 RBs to DBB.

FFA: Darrin Carter, Chris Poole, Mark Poole, 2002

17 Sport 18m, 5
16 SHC

Old trad route starting where 'Bombadil' is now.

FA: Michael Woodrow & Darren Holloway, 1984

17 Trad 18m
17 Tombstone Row

Start 5m L of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TR".

Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors. A more direct finish was added when it was retrobolted, increasing the grade from 15 to 16.

FFA: David Reeve, 1968

16 Sport 18m, 5
18 ** Idiot Wind DS

Start straight up wall L of usual 'Idiot Wind'. Consider using some trad gear. Rejoins the original at its 2nd bolt.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1983

21 Sport 18m, 4
19 * Alien Sex Fiend

Start as for 'Idiot Wind'.

At the 3rd bolt on 'Idiot Wind' head straight up the headwall L of the 'Idiot Wind' flake past 2 BRs. The 2nd is a desperate clip in the Mark Moorhead tradition, involving a thin crimp or a long reach to get to the bolt. Finish at the 'Idiot Wind' DBB.

FFA: Michael Woodrow, Darren Holloway, 1986

21 Sport 18m, 5
20 *** Idiot Wind

Start at the "IW' mark.

Quality climbing. The testpiece of its grade at 'Kangaroo Point'. 5 RBs and anchors. There's a ground anchor just R of the base for lead rope soloing.

This route map shows it dodging around the small roof. I lead it direct, doing the nice balancey move as a part of the * experience, and I think others probably did too. (Michael Woodrow)

FFA: Gordon Bieske, Paul Hoskins, 1984

21 Sport 18m, 5
21 * Eddie Goes to Gay Bars

Traverse. Start at 'Idiot Wind'.

  1. 20m (17) Up 'Idiot Wind' to 2nd bolt. Traverse R to belay on 'Hanger Wall'.

  2. 15m (20) Traverse R on high line of 'Hanger Wall' to belay on 'Chip-a-Holdaway'.

  3. 15m (12) Across to belay on last bolt of 'Euthanasia'.


20 R Trad 50m 3
22 * Sounds of Silence

Traverse. Start at 'Idiot Wind'.

  1. 21m (17) Up 'Idiot Wind' to roof then traverse R and down to belay below 'Nic Chips Diffs' headwall.

  2. 9m (17) Across 'Exhilarant' to belay on 'Gangbang Wall'.

  3. 11m (20) Across to natural pro belay on 8m high ledge on 'Anonymous'.

  4. 13m (17) To halfway ledge on 'Pterodactyl'.

  5. 14m (22) To 'Moonlight Fantasia' ledge.

  6. 20m (22) Finish up 'Adam's Rib'.

FA: 1983

22 R Trad 88m 6
23 * The Stoats Stepped Out

Start 2m R of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TSSO".

Clip the 1st RB on 'Idiot Wind' then head straight up the face past 3 BRs. Finish on a great sequence past a FH to the top. Be careful clipping the 2nd bolt because a groundfall is possible.

FFA: Darren Holloway, Michael Woodrow, 1985

21 Sport 18m, 5

Lightbox 47 - Socketh It Unto Me

24 Socketh It Unto Me V

Moira and I cleaned up both of the variants and the main route on the same weekend in 1985.

FFA: Mick Woodrow, Moira Blom, 1985

18 Trad 18m
25 Socketh It Unto Me VF

Moira and I cleaned up both of the variants and the main route on the same weekend in 1985.

FA: Ted Cais, Rick White, 1969

FFA: Mick Woodrow, Moira Blom, 1985

19 Trad 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
26 Socketh It Unto Me

Start 2m R of 'The Stoats Stepped Out'. Faintly marked "S".

Layback up corner and reach L to clip BR. Through the crux and finish up the cracked face just L of 'Mission Impossible'. Committing.

FFA: Michael Woodrow, Moira Bloom, 1985

18 Mixed 18m, 1
27 Mission Impossible

Start just L of 'Another Girl Another Planet'. Marked "MI".

Straight up cracked corner past deep hole in rock to top. Run out on lead. Soloed on first free ascent.

FA: Ted Cais, Rick White, 1969

FFA: Gordon Bieske, 1985

17 R Trad 18m
28 * Mission Impossible VF

Start as for 'Mission Impossible'.

Traverse R at the ledge above the deep hole and finish up slab as for 'Another Girl Another Planet'.

FA: Michael Woodrow, Moira Blom

19 Mixed 18m, 1
29 Another Girl Another Planet

Start just R of 'Mission Impossible'. Marked "AGAP".

Up the broken rock to ledge and very high RB. Head L through nice crux sequence up R side of 'Mission Impossible' arete to 2nd RB (don't fall, odds are you'll hit the ledge). Mantle up to slab then edge up past RB shared with '42 Wheels' to top. Seldom repeated on lead.

"Did the first ascent of this when bolting was a very sensitive issue. I had been heavily criticised for bolting 'Hanger Wall Arete' (instead of putting a wire in the crux pocket/crack to protect that move!), particularly by Evan Beiske if memory serves... anyway, AGAP was my response. Please note it was pretty bold as it didn't have a bolt protecting the crux, just a small, thin piton facing downwards! LOL... Evan whimpered on repeat and lowered onto the piton in horror when he couldn't do the move... :-0" (Mick Woodrow)

FFA: Michael Woodrow, Eddie Irvine, 1986

21 R Sport 18m, 3
30 * 42 Wheels

Start just R of 'Another Girl Another Planet'. Faintly marked "42W".

Easy start over dodgy rock (watch the wasp nest) to ledge and very high RB. Up face past RB on bulge to slab. Finish up slab past RB shared with 'AGAP' to top.

"After establishing this route and 'PITG', with nights of top rope rehearsal, I saw Paul Hoskins down at Roo Point on a Saturday morning. Puffed my chest out and told Paul about the routes... he repeated both, onsight, with a combined elapsed time of about 45 seconds..." (Mick Woodrow)

Named after a song by Hunters & Collectors.

FFA: Michael Woodrow, Paul Lawrence, 1986

24 R Sport 18m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
31 ** Nic Chips Diffs

Start 1m L of 'Dysentery'.

Climb easy wall to very high BR then up sharp arete to 2nd BR under triangular roof. Swing L to huge jug and FH. Then up steep face past BR to slab. Up slab past BR and FH to the DBB shared wth 'Dysentery'. The first 2 RBs on 'Dysentery' can be clipped to protect the start.

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1983

24 Sport 18m, 6

Lightbox 48 - Dysentery

32 ** Dysentery DF

Start as for 'Dysentery'.

A slight variant to 'Dysentery'[12213427] which makes it a bit harder and more runout. After the 3rd RB head straight up the steeper part of the headwall, skipping the usual 4th RB. Rejoin the original line at its 5th RB. Best done on top rope.

FFA: Rob Whannell, 1985

19 R Sport 18m, 5
33 * Dysentery / Dysentery LHF

Start at "D" mark.

Up past 3 RBs then steeper moves R past 4th RB. Trend gently L onto slab and up past a RB and a FH to anchor shared with 'Nic Chips Diffs'.

FA: Gordon Bieske, 1984

17 Sport 18m, 6
34 * Dysentery RHF

Start as for 'Dysentery'[12213427], marked "D".

At the 4th RB on 'Dysentery'[12213427] veer R then up over roof, clipping 2 further RBs. Up slab above to DBB.

FA: Rob Whannell, 1985

19 Sport 18m, 6
35 Bubonic Man

Start 1m R of 'Dysentery'. Marked "BM".

Up past 2 BRs to 'Dysentery RHF' roof. Up over this and up slab to DBB.

FFA: David Whitworth, Michael Long, 1994

19 Mixed 18m, 4
36 Bridal Party

Start at 'Wedding Crashers'.

Old school climb which traverses L and R to find line of least resistance. Finishes up 'Exhilarant'.

FFA: Rob & Cath Whannell, 1985

19 Trad 18m
37 * Wedding Crashers

Start 3m R of 'Dysentery'.

Effectively bolts the way 'Bridal Party' was top roped for a few decades. Up easy slab to ledge and RB. Nice moves up steep face past 2nd RB to jug and 3rd RB. Mantle onto ledge and continue more easily past 2 RBs to DBB.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Ferguson, 2006

21 Sport 18m, 5
38 Stemming the Void

Start as for 'Exhilarant'.

Clip the BR in the middle of the steep face on the L part way up 'Exhilarant'. Bridge L to ledges then straight up past 2 further BRs to top out.

FFA: Andrew Smith, 1989

20 Mixed 18m, 3
39 * Exhilarant

Start up big corner 2m L of 'Hanger Wall Arete'. Marked "Ex".

Up the corner then finish up slab. Upgraded from the original grade of 16 by consensus.

FFA: Rick White, 1969

17 Trad 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
40 * Hanger Wall Arete

Start on arete 1m R of 'Exhilarant', 1m L of 'Gangbang Wall'.

Steep and balancy climbing, 'HWA' takes balance and commitment, while 'GBW' takes crimp strength and brawn. This route is great for climbers who lack the strength to crank through its neighbour, also fun for sandbagging musclebound tough-guys who have no technique.

Up arete clipping 1st 3 FHs shared with 'GBW'. Continue up arete above horizontal seam past further 3 FHs. Finish up easy slab to DBB shared with 'GBW' and 'Hanger Wall', optionally clipping 1 or 2 of the 'HW'[12212749] BRs.

FFA: Michael Woodrow, Darren Holloway, 1985

22 Sport 18m, 6

Lightbox 49 - Gangbang Wall

41 ** Gangbang Wall / GBW

Start 2m R of 'Exhilarant'. Marked "GBW".

Steep cranking on quality sequence (of dubious origin). Up thin slab to L clipping 2 FHs shared with 'Hanger Wall Arete' to 3rd FH at horizontal seam. Head slightly R then straight up headwall past 2 further FHs. Finish up easy slab clipping BRs on 'Hanger Wall' if desired to DBB shared with 'HWA' and 'HW'[12212749].

FFA: Andrew Barry, Roger Bourne, 1984

23 Sport 18m, 5
42 * Gangbang Wall DS

Start at 'Gangbang Wall', marked "GBW".

Head straight up the face instead of L, clipping the high FH. Rejoins the original 'GBW' when that line traverses in from the L at the horizontal seam.

FA: Paul Hoskins, 1982

23 R Sport 18m, 3
43 *** Bitter Gang Bang

Linkup. Climb past the crux of 'Gangbang Wall', then traverse R across 'Hanger Wall' and past 2 FHs to the 'Brisbane Bitter' anchors.

23 Sport 18m, 8
44 Hanger Wall

Start 2m R of 'Gangbang Wall'.

A bolt ladder aid climb up a line of about 15 BRs. Paul Hoskins "freed" this with the use of a bolted on street sign at grade 25. The last problem at 'KP' waiting to be truly freed.

FA: Ted Cais, 1968

18 AID:A1 Aid 18m, 15
45 ** Brisbane Bitter VS

Start at 'Hanger Wall', 1m L of usual 'Brisbane Bitter' start.

Climb past first 5 BRs on 'Hanger Wall' clipping 2 or 3, then join the usual 'Brisbane Bitter' line at its 2nd RB.

24 Sport 18m, 6
46 *** Brisbane Bitter

Start 2m R of 'Gangbang Wall', 2m L of 'XXXX'. Marked "BB".

Boulder start to RB then up nice seam past 4 more RBs to anchors. Hard finish.

FFA: Paul Hoskins, 1983

24 Sport 18m, 5
47 ** XXXX

Start 2m R of 'Brisbane Bitter', 1m L of 'Chip-a-Holdaway'. Marked "FX".

Solo up drillhole to very high RB. Up face past FH and RB, then pass the dyno crux to clip the final RB. Slightly R to DBB shared with 'Chip-a-Holdaway'.

FFA: Chris Frost, 1985

25 R Sport 18m, 4
48 * Chippers-XXXX Link

Linkup. Avoids solo start to 'XXXX'. Climb to 2nd bolt on 'Chip-a-Holdaway' then step L to original 'XXXX' line.

FA: Alex Combes

25 Sport 18m, 6
49 *** Chip-A-Holdaway / Chippers

Start 1m L of 'Anonymous'. Marked "CH".

Fantastic. Boulder start to ledge then up daunting wall on holds that just happen to be right where they're needed. 6 FHs then slightly L to anchors shared with 'XXXX'.

FFA: Andrew Horchner, Steven McMillan, 1998

22 Sport 18m, 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
50 Anonymous

Start 1m R of 'Chip-A-Holdaway'. Marked "A".

The original trad route. Up obvious corner, then on up ledges to corner finish. Average protection can now be supplemented with the RBs on 'Anonymous DS' making it a good beginner trad lead.

FFA: David Reeve, 1968

14 Trad 20m

Lightbox 50 - Anonymous

51 Anonymous DS

Start on blank wall 1m R of 'Anonymous'.

Retrobolted version of the original 'Anonymous' with a more direct start. Balancy climbing up wall past 2 RBs. Then on up corners and ledges finishing either up corner on R or straight up thin moves on face for more of a challenge. 6 RBs and DBB.

16 Sport 18m, 6
52 Anonymous Arete

Start 2m R of 'Anonymous', 1m R of 'Anonymous DS'.

Up shallow corner, then sharp arete, then ledges to top.

FFA: Saul Squires, David Whitworth, 1992

19 Trad 18m
53 Bloody Oath Arete

FA: Unknown, 2000

16 Trad 18m
54 Bloody Oath

Start 2m L of 'Stoat Clips Bolts'. Marked "BO".

FFA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1968

16 Trad 18m
55 Bloody Oath RHV

FA: Unknown, 2000

16 Trad 18m
56 Stoat Clips Bolts

Start 2m L of 'PITG'. Marked "SCB".

Follow the zigzag line of 6 RBs to DBB. There's a 7th RB above the anchor if you want to continue up the last section and top out instead.

FFA: Gordon Bieske, Rob Whannell, 1985

18 Sport 18m, 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
57 ** Punks in the Gin

Start 4m L of 'Pterodactyl'. Marked "PITG".

Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors.

FFA: Mick Woodrow, Paul Lawrence, 1985

24 Sport 17m, 5
58 ** Euthanasia

Start 3m L of 'Pterodactyl'. Marked "E".

Up past 3 BRs then R to the 'Pterodactyl' DBB. Run out.

FA: Greg Sheard, Denis Stocks, 1969

FFA: Paul Hoskins, Dave Moss, 1982

21 R Sport 17m, 3
59 Euthanasia V

Start 1m R of usual 'Euthanasia' start.

WARNING: potential for a big groundfall before reaching the 2nd bolt. Straight up to roof, reach left and clip 1st BR on 'Euthanasia'. Then over roof and on to arete. Rejoin 'Euthanasia' at its 3rd BR.

FFA: Unknown, 1980

22 R Sport 17m, 2
60 Pterodactyl D

Start 2m L of usual 'Pterodactyl' start. Marked "PTD".

Up arete and cracked corner to very high RB, then join 'Pterodactyl' at its 3rd RB.

FFA: Rick White, 1969

17 Sport 17m, 4

Lightbox 51 - Pterodactyl

61 Pterodactyl

Start at big "PT" mark.

Nice climbing up past 5 RBs then run it out a bit up easy slab to anchors. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

Crux undercling came off winter 2015. The change is pretty minimal but it's probably a bit harder now. Might need upgrading to 19??

FA: Ted Cais, David Reeve, 1969

FFA: Mick Woodrow, Darren Holloway, 1985

18 Sport 17m, 5
62 Heap of Shit

A different start to 'Pterodactyl', starting 1m R.

Only minimally different to the standard 'Pterodactyl' and traverses L to join the usual route at halfway.

"I only got interested in leading the FFA of this route because it makes me the only person I know who can claim to have freed a Hot Henry Barber top-rope problem!" (Mick Woodrow)

FA: 'Hot' Henry Barber, 1975

FFA: Michael Woodrow, Darren Holloway, 1985

20 R Trad 17m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
63 ** Honed And Buffed

Start 1m L of 'Wages Of Fear'. Marked "HBu".

Up crap rock at start to high RB. Run it out to 2nd RB, then up slab past 2 further RBs to anchor. Crap start, nice middle and finish. Quite runout using just bolts but has good placements for wires.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

24 Sport 17m, 4
64 Dextral Chirality

Linkup. Up 'Honed and Buffed' to the first bolt, tricky crimp traverse to the 2nd bolt on 'Wages Of Fear'. Then crap yourself over to the 2nd bolt on 'Cucumber Castle'. Keep traversing over to the bolt at the bulge of 'Be A Robot For Jesus' then pull the bulge crux and finish up 'BARFJ'. Pretty fun.

FA: Adam Palmer, 2008

25 Sport 23m, 6
65 Cubans For All

Variant finish to 'Honed And Buffed'. Climb usual route to third bolt. Then head up and right, clipping either the 3rd bolt of 'HAB' or the 4th of 'Wages Of Fear', or placing a cam in the break. Clip the last bolt of 'Close But No Cigar' and head straight up to the 'WOF' anchors.

FFA: Jay MacGechan, 2013

24 Sport 18m, 4
66 Close But No Cigar

Variant finish to 'Wages Of Fear'. Climb usual route until 4th RB at break. From here head up and left past 1 RB, finishing at 'Honed And Buffed' anchors.

Sustained crimping until final awkward move. It's possible to go straight up and then do an awkward traverse but not as nice.

FFA: Matt Hunter, 2013

24 Sport 18m, 5
67 *** Wages Of Fear

Start 3m L of 'Cucumber Castle'. Marked "WF".

A 'KP' classic! Straight up line of 5 RBs to anchors. First RB is high but a bit easier to get to than the first on 'Cucumber Castle'.

FA: John Pickard, 1968

FFA: Roger Bourne, 1984

24 Sport 18m, 5
68 * Cucumber Of Fear

Linkup. First part 'Cucumber Castle', second part 'Wages Of Fear'.

24 Sport 20m
69 *** Cucumber Castle

Start 2m L of 'BARFJ'. Marked "CC".

Classic climb but potential for big falls so make sure you're solid at the grade if leading. Hard start to small ledge and high FH. Follow obvious line past 2nd & 3rd FHs. Above 3rd FH place cam in crack or run it out to 4th FH. Finish at DBB.

FA: Rob Staszewski, 1974

FFA: Andrew Barry, Paul Hoskins, 1984

23 Sport 18m, 4
70 * Jesus Ate My Cucumber

Linkup. Up 'Cucumber Castle' to break, finish up last bit of 'BARFJ'.

23 Sport 18m

Lightbox 52 - BARFJ

71 ** Be A Robot For Jesus / BARFJ

Start at large "BARFJ" mark.

Very sustained. Up smooth face to high RB. Continue past further 4 RBs and slightly R to anchor.

Dropped from grade 26 to 25 when a hold was "enhanced" in July 2006.

FFA: Andrew Barry, 1984

26 Sport 18m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
72 ** Moonlight Fantasia

Start 1m R of 'BARFJ'. Marked "MF".

One of the few good natural lines at 'KP'. It is a shame that the upper layback crack was halved when the council decided to renovate in the mid 1990s by dynamiting it off! Neil Monteith added the new bolted finish when the dust settled.

Up pockets to small roof, then up layback crack on L to halfway ledge. Straight up past RB to crack. Either top out or use BARFJ anchors just L.

FA: Paul Caffyn, Rick White, 1968

FA: Neil Monteith, 1995

19 Mixed 18m, 1
73 * Moonlight Fantasia (variant)

Start as for 'Moonlight Fantasia'.

At small roof, head straight up face to halfway ledge avoiding layback crack on L. From ledge finish as for 'Moonlight Fantasia'.

FA: Roger Bourne, Rick White, 1979

18 Mixed 18m, 1
74 * Moonlight Fantasia (Variant Finish)

Start as for 'Moonlight Fantasia'.

From halfway ledge climb crack 2m R to top.

FA: BIll Cotman, Tony Zuino, 1996

18 Trad 18m
75 *** The Sinister Pathway

Linkup. Very, very nice. Up 'Bufo Marinus' to the bolt. Traverse L across 'Moonlight Fantasia' (place cam under block), then over to 1st bolt of 'Be A Robot For Jesus'. Do BARFJ's crux, then clip 2nd bolt on 'Cucumber Castle'. Traverse L across to 3rd bolt on 'Wages Of Fear' and do its crux. Traverse L across blankish wall to 'Honed And Buffed' and clip last 3 bolts of this route to anchors.

FA: Glen Foley, Adam Palmer

27 Trad 25m
76 * Bufo Marinus (direct finish)

Start as for 'Bufo Marinus' but continue up to the L of the small ledge with anchors, finishing at the 'Moonlight Fantasia' ledge instead.

FA: Chris Frost, 1984

25 Sport 9m, 1
77 ** Bufo Marinus

Start on blank wall 2m R of 'Moonlight Fantasia'.

Crimp up past FH and on to small ledge with anchors.

FA: Roger Bourne, 1984

25 Sport 5m, 1
78 Traverse To Bufo

Start at 'By Ignorance'.

Not really a traverse but an easy L-tending scramble up to the 'Bufo Marinus' anchors. Often soloed to set up a top rope on 'Bufo Marinus'.

10 Trad 7m
79 By Ignorance

Start 1m R from the 'Bufo Marinus' arete. Marked "BI".

Up to halfway ledge at base of slab. Up slab to layback crack, then up this, R around bulge and top out.

FFA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1968

13 Trad 18m
80 By Ignorance (Variant Finish)

Start as for 'By Ignorance'.

At the halfway ledge, traverse R 2m and climb up the middle of the slab to the top. No protection.

FFA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1968

12 R Trad 18m

Lightbox 53 - By Ignorance

81 By Ignorance RHV

Start 2m R of the usual 'By Ignorance' start.

Straight up drill hole to halfway ledge, then up the corner at the R edge of the slab. Very bold.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1982

17 R Trad 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The vegetation at the top of the cliff is too thick to allow foot access for top roping from 'Ground Point Zero' until the 'Piles' area.

82 * Ground Point Zero

Start as for 'Squawk', 2m L of 'Gobble'. Marked "SQ".

Climb up 'Squawk' until reaching the 2nd BR. From here go L up the improbable-looking face clipping the 3rd BR on the way to the top. Crimpy.

FA: Richard Henderson, 1987

25 Sport 18m, 3
83 Squawk

Start 2m L of 'Gobble'. Marked "SQ".

Sparsely bolted and therefore less often climbed than it would otherwise be. Up past high BR to 2nd BR at start of headwall. Climb headwall clipping 3rd BR to ledge. Climb the arete on the R to the top.

FA: Tony Young, 1983

22 Sport 18m, 3
84 ** Gobble

Start 3m L of 'Adam's Rib'. Marked "G".

Justifiably popular. Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchor shared with 'The Bolting Gestapo'.

FA: Paul Hoskins, 1983

22 Sport 18m, 5
85 * The Bolting Gestapo

Start 2m L of 'Adam's Rib', 1m R of 'Gobble'.

Nice. Climb up clipping 2 RBs, then 2 FHs, then 1 more RB, then the anchor shared with 'Gobble'. Crux is mantling the bulge at the 3rd bolt.

FA: Ross Ferguson

19 Sport 18m, 5

Lightbox 54 - Adam's Rib

86 Adam's Rib (direct finish)

Start as for 'Adam's Rib'.

From the large ledge two-thirds of the way up, climb up the corner instead of the arete.

FA: Chris Ahern, 1993

16 Trad 17m
87 Adam's Rib

Start at the massive "AR" mark.

Climb up the corner and face then on up to the large ledge with the corner two-thirds of the way up. From here climb the arete on the R to the top.

FA: Rick White, Ted Cais, 1968

14 Trad 17m
88 Adam's Rib (direct start)

Start 1m R of the usual 'Adam's Rib' start.

Climb up the slippery face to join 'Adam's Rib' at the corner.

FA: Richard Henderson, 1985

18 Trad 17m
89 * Dollarman

Start 2m R of 'Adam's Rib', where the "$♂" (dollar-man, get it?!) is painted about 4m off the ground.

Up the hard slots (wires) then finish up the 'Adam's Rib' arete.

FA: Unknown, 1980

24 Trad 17m
90 Pig City

Start 1m R of 'Dollarman'. Has the piranha at half height.

Hard start past the 1st FH to the slot that forms the piranha's mouth. Clip the 2nd FH. From here the original route tended L to continue up the 'Adam's Rib' arete but the 3rd bolt on 'Pocket Calculator' now leads you R and up to their shared DBB. 3 FHs.

FA: Roger Bourne, 1984

24 Sport 17m, 3
91 ** Filling In Time Until The Pension

Traverse. Start up 'Pocket Calculator' to 3rd bolt, then step left for 365m to finish up at 'The Olos Slab'. A fun day out, but really why would you unless you have a lot of time on your hands?

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, 2009

22 Trad 380m
92 Pocket Calculator / (Unknown 1)

Start 2m R of 'Pig City'.

Follow the line of 3 left-trending FHs. The crux is mounting the bulge. Shares 3rd FH & chains with 'Pig City'.

FA: Andrew Mason, 1980

22 Sport 15m, 3
93 Pocket Calculator RH Variant-1

Up to 1st FH, then out right over blocks to ledge & 2nd FH. Delicate move into corner & 3rd FH. Hard moves up to crack and jugs, then easy to top.

17 Unknown 15m
94 Pocket Calculator RH Variant-2

Up to 1st FH, then out right over blocks to ledge & 2nd FH. Out right & up to 2nd big ledge above 3rd FH, up corner to chains.

14 Unknown 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
95 Crud Corner

Start 3m L of 'Bird Dance For Shiva'.

Up the ledges then the loose corner to top.

FA: Peter Barnes, 1950

8 Trad 15m
96 Wrinkled Welsh Weenies

Start 2m L of 'Bird Dance For Shiva'.

Up the ledges, traverse R and finish up the slab clipping the BR. Much harder than its official grade of 15.

FA: Mick Woodrow, 1985

15 Mixed 13m, 1

Lightbox 55 - Bird Dance For Shiva

97 Amnesia

Climb 'Bird Dance For Shiva' to halfway. Swing L into blank corner with crack. Up crack past piton(!). Finish R at 'Steaming Wally' chains.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Erik Smits, 2002

23 R Sport 13m, 2
98 Bird Dance For Shiva

Start 2m L of 'Steaming Wally'. Marked "BDS".

Climb to slab and onward past the single BR to the top. Shiva is the goddess of death and the bird dance refers to an attempt to fly... the FFA hit the ground and was almost killed on this climb.

FA: Michael Woodrow, 1986

23 R Sport 13m, 1
99 ** Steaming Wally

Start 2m L of 'Gigolo'.

One of the hardest climbs at KP, though it's very cruxy. Follow the line of 3 RBs (2nd has maillon) up the blunt arete to the ledge and anchors.

FA: Paul Hoskins, 1985

26 Sport 13m, 3
100 Gigolo

Start about 15m or so L of 'Mantlit', 1m L of a yellow fire hydrant marker against the cliff. Marked "G".

More of a very runout sport climb than a trad route, given there's nowhere to place gear. Climb the series of overhangs clipping as many of the 'Nic Pic Dics' BRs as you can (the first 2 at the very least). Hard & sustained for the grade.

FA: Evan Bieske, Roger Bourne, 1985

17 R Mixed 13m, 2
101 Nic Pic Dics

Start at 'Gigolo'. Marked "G".

Up the face just R of the 'Gigolo' overhangs, avoiding its holds. Follows the line of 5 BRs that replaced the original aid bolts. At top head slightly R to the anchors.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collet, 1969

FFA: Andrew Barry, 1985

23 Sport 13m, 5
102 Responding to Purely Rabitoid Stimuli Direct Finish

Start just R of 'Gigolo' / 'Nic Pic Dics'.

Follow line of 3 BRs up R side of thin slab to anchor shared with 'Nic Pic Dics'.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2003

20 Sport 13m, 3
103 Responding to Purely Rabitoid Stimuli

The original trad line heads R after 1st bolt, finishing up arête & corner.

FA: Mick Woodrow, Moria Blom, 1985

17 Mixed 13m, 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Lightbox 56 - JAFKPR


Start 3m R of 'Gigolo'.

Decent beginner climb, safely bolted. 4 RBs to chains.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Paul Pagoldh, 2013

14 Sport 13m, 4
105 Breakout

Start 2m L of 'Stonehinge'. Marked "BO".

Hard for the grade.

FA: Lesa & Col Smithies, 1986

5 Trad 14m
106 Stonehinge

Start 1m L of 'Diagonal'. Marked "SH".

Now retrobolted as an easy beginner's lead. First bolt is easy to reach but high and move near the top is hard for the grade so more a lead for competent climbers learning to lead rather than outright beginners. 3 RBs to DBB.

FA: Col Smithies, Malcolm Argent, 1986

FFA: David & Ruth Reeve, Vincent Geisler, 2012

10 Sport 12m, 3
107 Diagonal

Start 5m L of 'Mantlit'. Marked "D".

FA: Shane Smithies, 1986

3 Trad 17m
108 Slippery Dip

FA: Rick White (solo), 1968

10 Trad 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Lightbox 57 - Baby Steps

109 Baby Steps

Start 2m L of 'Mantlit'.

Mini sport lead, perfect for first time leaders. 3 RBs & DBB.

FA: David Reeve, 2012

5 Sport 7m, 3
110 Mantlit

Start behind jacaranda tree, 2m L of 'Play School'.

Great beginner lead. Up series of ledges past 4 BRs to chains shared with 'Play School'.

FA: Malcolm Argent, Col Smithies, 2000

13 Sport 10m, 4
111 Play School

Start behind jacaranda tree, 3m L of 'Moonlight Dilemma'. Marked "COD" (for 'Cloak Of Darkness').

Up ramp to high FH. Move on past 2 more FHs and run it out a little up to the chains shared with 'Mantlit'.

FA: Claudia Ferguson, Suzy Goldner, Ross Ferguson

11 Sport 10m, 3
112 Terrorsaurus


FA: Malcolm Argent, Col Smithies, 1988

12 Trad 14m
113 Cloak Of Darkness

Start behind jacaranda tree, 3m L of 'Moonlight Dilemma'. Marked "COD".

Up just R of bolts on 'Play School' and top out.

FA: Malcolm Argent, Col Smithies, 1988

13 Trad 14m
114 Offal

Start 1m R of 'Play School', 1m L of 'Moonlight Dilemma'.

Retrobolted so now a nice easy beginner lead. 5 RBs to DBB.

FA: Col & Shane Smithies, 1986

6 Sport 14m, 5

Lightbox 58 - Moonlight Dilemma

115 Moonlight Dilemma

Start behind jacaranda tree about 15m L of 'Arete', and 2m right of Offal. Marked "MD".

Climbs better than it looks. Up twin choss cracks clipping bolts to the left. Head left at the ledge, and up balancy wall to chossy, crux rooflet. Breach the rooflet to the left, clip the last bolt on 'Offal' and finish at chains shared with 'Offal'.

FA Unknown, original line unknown

Set by Dave and Ruth Reeve, 2013

16 Sport 15m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
116 Spooge In A Glove

Chossy corner 1 m R of 'Moonlight Dilemma'. 4 RBs, anchors shared with 'Hanging Garden'.

FFA: Steve Kloske, Paul Pagoldh, 2014

14 Sport 15m, 4
117 Hanging Garden

Start 2 m R of 'Spooge In A Glove'. Climbs the L trending ramp to anchor shared with 'Spooge in a Glove'. 3 RBs.

FFA: Paul Pagoldh, Steve Kloske, 2014

12 Sport 15m, 3
118 Dodgy Dub

Climbs the blank face and arete 1 m R of 'Hanging Garden'. 3 RBs and anchors.

FFA: Steve Kloske, 2014

18 Sport 15m, 3

Lightbox 60 - Humungousaur

119 Humungousaur

Start 1m L of 'Spidermonkey'.

Up onto the ledge and clip the RB. Climb the nice finger crack to the start of the slab at halfway. Up the slab clipping 2 RBs and finish at the DBB.

FA: Proude Hawkins, 2012

16 Mixed 14m, 3
120 Spidermonkey

Start on the slab 5m L of 'Arete'.

Follow the line of 8 RBs to the DBB. An excellent beginner sport lead with easy but fun climbing and plenty of bolts to get those clips dialled.

FA: Proude Hawkins, 2012

8 Sport 15m, 8
121 Tactical Alert Stealth Hound

Start at 'Spidermonkey'.

Nice beginner trad lead with good pro following the crack just R of 'Spidermonkey'. Finish at the 'Spidermonkey' DBB. Named after KP's well-known mascot - Proude's dog, Tash. (T.A.S.H)

FA: Proude Hawkins, 2012

10 Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
122 Arete

Start at the arete about 10m L of 'Piles'. Marked "A".

Fun easy trad route. Up onto ledge with the big manky crambling crack. Head out right and up for a few fun moves over crappy gear around the 'roof' thing. Head right to belay off the fence near the top of the stairs. You could also do a dodgy traverse carefully to the anchor on 'White Dopes On Punk'.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

12 Trad 13m

Lightbox 61 - White Dopes On Punk

123 * White Dopes On Punk

Start on pinned face about 10m L of 'Piles' and 1m R of 'Arete'.

A much nicer climb than it looks at first glance. Dyno start to hold and first FH. Up obvious line past 2 more FHs. Break R onto ledge and anchor.

Named after the 1975 hit single from rock band The Tubes.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

21 Sport 13m, 3
124 Hernia

Direct start to 'Cox's Corner' up the overhung layback. The pins give good fixed protection.

FFA: Robert Rankin, 1972

12 Trad 10m
125 Cox's Corner

Start in corner 3m L of 'Pseudo-Cox'. Faintly marked "CC".

Climb awful face past a number of pins. From here the climb originally traversed L to corner and tree then upward to more wire netting. Now the tree has grown so large you'd be doing well to make it that far. Probably not worth the effort.

FA: Unknown, 1960

8 Trad 10m
126 Pseudo-Cox

Start 2m L of 'Cox's Overhang'. Marked "PsC".

Up to ledge, traverse right and up corner to wire netting.

FA: Unknown, 1960

11 Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Lightbox 62 - Finger Pop

127 Finger Pop

Chipped boulder start to 'Cox's Overhang', 1m L of usual start.

FA: Robert Rankin, 1975

FFA: Andrew Barry, 1982

18 Trad 6m
128 Cox's Overhang

Start 2m L of 'Piles'. Marked "CO".

Follow shallow corner to under overhang, slinging the pin on the way. Place some gear then climb the overhang on its R side. Solo up the slabby arete to top.

FA: Ron Cox, 1959

FFA: Ted Cais, 1968

17 R Trad 17m
129 Cox's Diagonal

Start 2m L of 'Piles', right near 'Cox's Overhang'. Marked "CD".

Contrived traversing.

FA: Unknown, 1960

14 Trad 8m
130 ** Piles

Start at the first obvious cliff face at the rightmost (southern or Southbank) end of the main cliffs, behind the "Danger" sign. Marked "P".

Balancy and intense slab climbing. Climb R then L up vertical face past 2 RBs. Crimpy moves past 3rd RB lead to a jug and the halfway ledge. From ledge follow 3 RBs up thin slab to top. Railings at top provide easy anchors to rap or belay from. 6 RBs.

FFA: Paul Hoskins, 1983

22 Sport 17m, 6
131 * Cox's Edge

Start 2m R of 'Piles'. Marked "CE".

Up slabby arete. Minimal protection.

FA: Unknown, 1960

13 R Trad 16m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
132 Short Wall

Start on the short but surprisingly nice face buried in the jungle about 10m R of 'Piles'. Marked "SW".

Climb past 2 BRs and top out. Railings at the top provide easy anchors to rap or belay from, though it's pretty vegetated at the top too.

FA: Ron Masters, 1977

FFA: Neil Monteith, 1984

16 Sport 10m, 2
133 Short Wall RHV

As for 'Short Wall' but climb down and R from the last BR, then up the small chossy corner to top out.

FA: Evan Bieske, 1981

16 Sport 10m, 2
134 Keep The Wasp Off The Tiger

Seems to have become lost in the jungle to the R of 'Short Wall'. Supposedly marked "AC".

FA: John Jones, Mick Woodrow, 1984

19 Trad 10m

1.1.4. Nursery Cliffs 14 routes in Cliff

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 153.032714, -27.481410


This small easy cliff is separate to the main cliff at 'Kangaroo Point'. It has a series of (not very imaginatively named) climbs perfect for beginners.

Climbs are listed from left to right. There are bollards at the top for top rope anchors.


You can get to the base of the 'Nursery Cliffs' by walking up the metal stairs at the rightmost (southern) end of the main cliff, by walking down the stairs next to the gazebo on River Terrace or by walking/driving up Lower River Terrace off Ellis St.

The top is accessible directly off River Terrace.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Climb One

Up obvious slab, climbing the line of least resistance to top out.

9 R Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Climb Two

Start 10 m right. Up arête on right side using good holds all the way. Avoid the swing around the left side of the arête.

10 Trad 10m
3 Climb Three

Start 2 m right. Scramble to crack in wall. Up this with nice protection to top out.

14 Trad 10m
4 Climb Four

Start 3 m right. Shallow corner then traverse left and easy to top.

13 Trad 10m
5 Climb Five

Start 4 m right. Delicately up to nose (BR). Over this small roof to protection in the horizontal crack. Reach jug and easy finish.

18 R Trad 10m
6 Climb Six

Start 1 m right. Wandering line of least resistance to the corner and finish up this to top out.

6 Trad 10m
7 Climb Seven

Start 4 m right. Climb corner to below arête. Easily up this to top.

12 Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Climb Eight

Start 1 m right. Up slab to ledges and top out.

8 Trad 10m
9 Climb Nine

Start 2 m right. The line of least resistance up the easy ledges.

8 Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 Climb Ten

Start 5 m right. Same start as for climb #11. Trend left then up seam on small pockets to top.

18 Trad 10m
11 Climb Eleven

Start 1 m right. Very easy corner to below the vertical headwall. Up and right to the top. Now fully bolted.

14 Sport 10m
12 Climb Twelve

Start 2 m right. Up blocks to a good stance. Mantle the ledge on the right and scramble out. Now fully bolted with practice anchors halfway.

10 Sport 10m
13 Climb Thirteen

Start 3 m right. Up the overhung arete to stance. Continue up an easy wall to a crack in the headwall. Finish easily up this.

10 Trad 10m
14 Climb Fourteen

Start 4 m right. Up the corner to below the big roof. Traverse right to crack and force overhang above to jugs and easy finish.

17 Trad 10m

1.1.5. Bouldering 68 routes in Field

All Boulder

It's rare to be at 'Kangaroo Point' and not see at least one person bouldering their way along the base of the cliff. Much less common is seeing someone bouldering with any degree of intent beyond working on their finger strength while their mates are too busy to climb. The reason for this is that, well, 'KP' just isn't that great for bouldering. But of course, no cliff could be climbed by so many without someone coming up with some boulder problems and to be fair, there are a few decent ones scattered around.

Other places to boulder in 'Brisbane'[11742955] include 'Toohey Forest'[11811511] and 'Springwood Conservation Park'[11811487].

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pocket Puller V5 Boulder 4m
2 *** Movements


Start R2, L3, M3, L4, R5, L7, R14, L17, M7, MF6.

V5 Boulder
3 * Power Gamin

M6, L18, R11, M11, R15, M15.

V2 Boulder
4 Thank God I'm Not ...

M6, L7, R3, L23, then right hand to big jug just out of picture.

V2 Boulder
5 Star Jumps

Sit start in the arch shaped feature on 1 and 2. 'Layback' up the finger crack to the jugs above the V.

Start: The crack between the climbs marked SR and SRO.

V2 Boulder
6 * B-Sharp Dyno

Like the 'G Dyno', except start on the next under cling to the left.

V4 Boulder
7 * Footloose

Sit start using the pocket for your left hand and the toothless under cling for your right. Go right and up without using the low ledge.

V3 Boulder
8 ** Bloody Finger

Sit start on hold one, without using the low ledge to the left. Use the pocket at 2 to get to pocket at 3.

V1 Boulder
9 * Pinch me

Sit start at hold 1. Reach up and pinch 4. Head left to pocket at 3.

V1 Boulder
10 *** The Fish Problem

One of the most least contrived problems on the whole cliff.

V7 Boulder
11 * Gut Busting

Follow numbers from 1 to 9.

V3 Boulder
12 Mini Mantle

Dwarf special?...

Mantle the banned area from a sit start?

V0 Boulder
13 * Seppuku by Big-Bro

M21, R22, M22, R10, M10, R26, M26, R15, M15, R13, L12.

FA: Dan Roe, 2006

V3 Boulder
14 ** Smooth Like A Cow On Roller Skate

R9, L10, R12 (pinch), M12, R22, L23.

V3 Boulder
15 * Jump-a-hold-away

Run at the slab and jump to the big jug, mantle onto the ledge.

V1 Boulder
16 ** Beer for Breakfast

L5, R16, L using the seam between 23 and 19 (optional), R10, M10.

V2 Boulder
17 Shannon and the Cigarette Lighter V4 Boulder
18 Campus

Campus across the jugs to the left of the "Around the World" problem.

V3 Boulder
19 ** Fuck Hip Hop, Wear a Belt

A cool variation of the previous problem.

M20, L22, M22, R10, M10, R26, M26, R14, M14, L12.

FA: Dan Roe, 2007

V3 Boulder
20 * Bust a Boiler

M6, L7, R15, M15.

V3 Boulder
21 Toothless

Using the undercling just left of FOBS. Using funky feet, deadpoint the little jug above the bulge. If you don't stick it, watch you don't smash your face on the way back down...

Start: To the right of the 'SIN' graffiti

V2 Boulder
22 Blood on the Tracks

Run up the wall to the jug a couple of feet above the IW marking.

V2 Boulder
23 Popup

Standing start.

V2 Boulder
24 *** Mr Pinchy Takes A Bath

M20, L22, R25, L28.

V3 Boulder
25 Ninja Boner

M6, L18 (undercling), R7, L11, M11.

V6 Boulder
26 *** Mega Traverse

From Playschool all the way down to More Bolts Than Meters.

V7 Boulder
27 *** Twister

One of the best dyno's at the crag.

V4 Boulder
28 * White Girls Can't Hump

M1, L5, M5 (gaston), R6, M6

V1 Boulder
29 *** Drive it like a Volvo

Funky variety of moves.

V4 Boulder
30 Nut Buster

Follow the numbers to 6 then straight up to 10.

V2 Boulder
31 *** The Big Dyno

M8, M23

V7 Boulder
32 G Dyno

Match the undercling to the left of the CH paint marker. Dyno to the big ledge and mantle onto it.

V5 Boulder
33 Balance Problem

Starting on the small ledge about 2m left of 'Around The World'. Using only your legs (no hands/leaning). Traverse left around the corner to MOBS. Or do it the opposite way.

V2 Boulder
34 ** Pumpalicious

Pumpy little circuit.

V3 Boulder
35 Heel Hook

A bit left of 'Gangbang Wall' is a climb marked "Ex". From a sit start heel hook the big jug and rock on up and over.

V0 Boulder
36 Anti Slab

Match the holds just right of the CH paint marker. Dyno to the big ledge and mantle onto it.

V6 Boulder
37 Dance Like A Robot

Run at the face and use the small step/jug below the BARFJ paint marker to dyno to the jug just above the 'O' in the faint LOST graffiti.

V3 Boulder
38 Monkeys

Sit start using holds 4 and 6. Straight up to 15.

V3 Boulder
39 Gruntologist

No starting from mats or kneebars... M6 (arm bars allowed), R30, M30.

V3 Boulder
40 Jump Up

Standing start.

V2 Boulder
41 *** Ninjas and Hamburgers

Using the side clings on either side, dyno to the jug over the bulge.

Start: To the left of MOBS, left of the 'SIN' graffiti.

V3 Boulder
42 Fish Tail

The arete behind the fish sculpture.

V3 Boulder
43 Big heel hook

Sit start 2m right of 'By Ignorance' below 1m high ledge. Chinup, smear and heel hook to stand on top of ledge.

V0 Boulder
44 * Split my Sides

M21, R22, M22, R10, M10.

V3 Boulder
45 * Power Gambit

M6, L18 (undercling), R11, M11, R15, M15.

V5 Boulder
46 Chubba Chips Mods Start

Boulder the start of 'Chubba Chips Mods'.

Balance up to small holds & dyno to big sharp jug. Traverse R & downclimb to finish.

V1 Boulder 3m
47 The Bulge V1 Boulder 2m
48 Drill Hole Left

Up the 'Plunging for Mudbunnies' drillhole using only the L side.

V0 Boulder 3m
49 Drill Hole

Up the 'Plunging for Mudbunnies' drillhole.

V1 Boulder 3m
50 Drill Hole Right

Up the 'Plunging for Mudbunnies' drillhole using only the R side.

V0 Boulder 3m
51 Around The World

Follow the numbers to 14 then rinse and repeat.

V1 Boulder 4m
52 * The Exterminator

Boulder start 'The Rasp', marked "R".

L13, R9, heel hook 9, R17, L16, R22, M22

FA: Roger Bourne, 1984

V3 Boulder 6m
53 Idiot Wind Low Traverse

Watch the polished feet.

V1 Boulder 3m
54 * Idiot Wind High Traverse - Left to Right V4 Boulder 3m
55 ** Idiot Wind Direct

Standing start at 'Idiot Wind', directly below the "IW" mark. Couple of tricky moves to reach the jug way up to the L.

V3 Boulder
56 Idiot Wind High Traverse - Right to Left V3 Boulder 3m
57 *** Gangbang Wall (low traverse)

Use any of the following hold: 1, 4, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 14, 15, 17 in order to get match 21.

V1 Boulder
58 *** Gangbang Wall (high traverse)

M1, R5, L2, R8, L34 (optional), R30, M30.

V3 Boulder
59 Slippery Slab

FA: D.Comerford/H.Riley, 2006

V2 Boulder 4m
60 Chip-a-Holdaway Start

Boulder up start of 'Chip-a-Holdaway' to ledge.

V1 Boulder 2m
61 Fantastic

Boulder start 'Anonymous Arete'.

FA: Gordon Bieske, 1984

V0 Boulder 5m
62 * The Big Traverse

Test your stamina and endurance across about 250m of rock. There used to be a fig tree that grew up the cliff at Tigers Stripe.

V1 Boulder 200m
63 BARFJ Traverse V3 Boulder 3m
64 *** Moonlight Fantasia Traverse

One of the hardest boulder problems on the cliff.

V7 Boulder
65 * Bufo Marinus Traverse V6 Boulder 4m
66 Rankin's Rape VF

FA: H.Riley, 2006

V2 Boulder 3m
67 Rankin's Rape

FA: Rob Rankin, 1972

V0 Boulder 4m
68 Cox's Rape

FA: H.Riley, 2006

V1 Boulder 3m

1.2. Toohey Forest 248 routes in Crag

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.048736, -27.541951

Unique Features And Strengths:

Hidden boulders in one of the largest remnants of bush in Brisbane


'Toohey Forest' is a large area of bushland in the southern suburbs of Brisbane. Scattered throughout the forest are innumerable small sandstone boulders. There's heaps of problems and it's nice & shady, so many summer afternoons and many many layers of fingertip skin have been lost here!

Access Issues:

'Toohey Forest' is owned by the Brisbane City Council. It's an important habitat for 400 plants and animals, and is very popular with walkers, joggers and picnicking families. Therefore the usual rules of taking out your rubbish, keeping noise to a minimum and so on are particularly important here if climbing is to remain an acceptable activity in the eyes of the community.


'Toohey Forest' is about 10 km south of Brisbane city. The best access for most of the boulders is from the car park just off Toohey Road, Tarragindi.

View car park on Google Maps

To get there by public transport, take the bus to Griffith University's Nathan campus which adjoins the forest. For public transport information see TransLink.

Where To Stay:

Camping isn't allowed at 'Toohey Forest'.


Back in the mists of time a rough typed guide call the "Prawn guide" by Rob Appleby with additions by Lee Skidmore.

in 2012 Bruce Taylor made a good effort to make a new guide, which was then merged all together into theCrag to try and make sense of it all.

Various tidbits of route names have been gleaned from Qurank and elsewhere. This guide is very much a work in progress, if you see issues please fix them or contact brendan.heywood@gmail.com

1.2.1. Hill top area 8 routes in Area


Long/Lat: 153.043454, -27.537738


From the main car park just off Toohey Rd, follow the Toohey Ridge Track (it's the leftmost of the tracks and is sealed) for roughly 200m until you get to the "Margaret Collins Bench". From behind the bench, follow the dirt path up the hill for 20m to reach the 'Top of the Hill' boulder. Keep going uphill another 20m to get to the 'Bum start boulder' and 'Hobo's Haven'. Top of the Hill 4 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.043531, -27.537683


Walk about 20m up the dirt path from the "Margaret Collins Bench" and you'll see the boulder off to the right. Bum start boulder 2 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.043393, -27.537790


About 20m uphill from the 'Top of the Hill' boulder. 'Hobo's Haven' is just right. Hobo's Haven 2 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.043360, -27.537780


Nice cave boulder defined by a sharp crack which starts in the cave and follows out to a nice top out.


Just right of the 'Bum start boulder'.

1.2.2. Lookout 16 routes in Area


Long/Lat: 153.042828, -27.538438 Lookout boulder 5 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.042907, -27.538668 Lookout wall 1 route in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.042818, -27.538398


The Lookout Wall has numerous easy climbs and easy traverses Snakeskin area 7 routes in Area
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.042744, -27.538269


Just to the right of Lookout Boulder. Home to a boulder with a terrible-looking coarse face and a slab, as well as a very large python


From the lookout, hop down and to the left


So near the walking track, this area has seen some climbing over the years. One unlikely problem was plucked early in 2014 Watchtower Boulder 3 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.042719, -27.538179

1.2.3. Northern area 42 routes in Area


Long/Lat: 153.044662, -27.538314


From the main car park just off Toohey Rd, follow the Toohey Ridge Track (it's the leftmost of the tracks and is sealed) for about 5 minutes until reaching a long wooden bridge/walkway. The 'Northern Area' boulders are found just downhill of the track at various points from here on. Wooden Bridge Boulder 4 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.044100, -27.538172


The 'Wooden Bridge Boulder' is found pretty much under the long bridge/walkway on the Toohey Ridge Track that marks the start of the 'Northern Area'. Rooflet Boulder 3 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.044294, -27.538369


About 10m past the end of the long wooden bridge/walkway on the Toohey Ridge Track is a small dirt path heading downhill to the left. Follow it for about 20m and you'll spot the overhanging 'Rooflet Boulder' on the right. Boulder IV 2 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.044201, -27.538331


Just right of the 'Rooflet Boulder'. Boulder Below 7 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.044238, -27.538243


Just downhill from the 'Rooflet Boulder' and 'Boulder IV'. No 8 Boulder 5 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.044669, -27.538410


Continue walking along the Toohey Ridge Track from the wooden bridge. About 20m past the intersection with the Sandstone Circuit is a vague path heading off to the left. Follow it for 30m or so and you'll more than likely end up standing on top of the 'No 8 Boulder'. Turkey Boulder 6 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.044653, -27.538250


A large boulder with a long flat wall and a big staghorn fern at one end. Right near the houses on the northern boundary of the forest.


Walk downhill from the 'No 8 Boulder' for a minute or so. Boulder VI 8 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.045145, -27.538466


Continue walking along the Toohey Ridge Track from the wooden bridge passing the intersection with the Sandstone Circuit. You'll come to a weird Y in the bitumen that looks like the track was built wrong. From here head into the bush to the left and bash your way downhill for a minute or two. Tree Fall Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.045095, -27.538283


To the right and slightly uphill from the 'Bumstart Boulder'. Bumstart Boulder 5 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.045245, -27.538283


Just downhill from the righthand end of 'Boulder VI'.

1.2.4. Swimming pool boulders 13 routes in Area


Long/Lat: 153.047339, -27.538600


The 'Swimming Pool Boulders' is a cluster of four boulders on the northern boundary of the forest, very close to a house with a swimming pool. The house owners do not hassle climbers, so please be quiet and courteous in return.


These boulders are about 200m east of the 'Northern Area' boulders, so one way of finding them is to follow the northern boundary east from the 'Northern Area' for about 5 minutes. You can also walk west along the boundary from the Grass Tree Track which starts at the end of Cheval St, or (if you're very discrete) duck through the vacant block at 47 Barnehurst St. Chimp Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.047214, -27.538584


Nice overhung boulder.


First of the 'Swimming Pool Boulders' reached when approaching from the west. Casuarina Boulder 4 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.047341, -27.538615


Just left of the 'Chimp Boulder'. Creekbed Boulder 3 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.047476, -27.538660


Boulder straddling a creekbed.


Just left of the 'Casuarina Boulder'. Cesspool Boulder 4 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.047470, -27.538572


Boulder found right where the creekbed meets the boundary fence. Some rubbish has collected here but "cesspool" is a bit harsh! Needs good padding for falls because of uneven landing and nearby concrete wall.


Just downhill from the 'Creekbed Boulder'.

1.2.5. Main area 102 routes in Area


Long/Lat: 153.044885, -27.539561


The densest and best quality boulders at Toohey.


From the main car park just off Toohey Rd, follow the Toohey Ridge Track (it's the leftmost of the tracks and is sealed) for 5 minutes or so, passing the wooden bridge and the intersection with the Sandstone Circuit. You'll come to a weird Y in the bitumen that looks like the track was built wrong. Turn right along the bitumen then immediately veer downhill on a small dirt path. After about 20m the path peters out. Continue straight ahead, dropping down between two boulders. The overhanging boulder on the right (facing downhill) is the 'Unleash the Dancer Boulder', while the slabby one on the left is the 'Cobble Slab'. Area A 6 routes in Area
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.043687, -27.539807


The westernmost end of the 'Main Area', where there's plenty of boulders but only a couple worth climbing.


Follow the contour around past the leftmost end of the 'Unleash the Dancer Boulder' for about 150m. Keep an eye out for a large boulder with a roof. There's also a slab boulder about 40m downhill from the roof boulder. Chug 18 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.044460, -27.539325


The large boulder just downhill from the 'Unleash the Dancer Boulder'. Unleash the Dancer Boulder 14 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.044521, -27.539254


The obvious overhang and wall on the right (facing downhill) as you arrive at the 'Main Area'. Jack Hidden Boulder 3 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.044741, -27.539407


Small boulder just downhill from rightmost end of the 'Unleash The Dancer Boulder'. Cobble Slab 3 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.044730, -27.539254


Slabby and sharp, this boulder is like a cheese-grater if you slip.


The boulder on your left as you're arriving at the 'Main Area'. Chockstone wall 10 routes in Area
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.045336, -27.539396 Pebbled slab 4 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.045264, -27.539506


The 2m slab face just below the Chockstone Wall. Darker rock with a pebble band above an incut bottom.


The boulder directly downhill from the R end of the Chockstone boulders. Little Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.045380, -27.539525 DK Boulder 7 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.045550, -27.539592 Area C 20 routes in Area
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.045933, -27.539694


A cluster of boulders: the 'Mantle Boulder', the 'Large Crack Boulder' and 'Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon'.


Continue along the contour from 'Chockstone Wall' for about 100m. Black Cobble Boulder 5 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.046325, -27.539776


A flat wall of distinctively dark rock. Also quite sharp.


Continue along the contour from 'Area C' and you'll soon see the obvious dark wall. Boulder L 3 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.046256, -27.539827


Just downhill from the 'Black Cobble Boulder'. Very Small Boulder 3 routes in Boulder
All Boulder Cave Boulder 4 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.046413, -27.539818


A tall boulder with a low but deep cave in the centre. It marks the easternmost end of the 'Main Area'.


Found just beyond the righthand end of the 'Black Cobble Boulder'.

1.2.6. Bankside 43 routes in Area


Long/Lat: 153.047582, -27.542779


A string of small boulders set apart from the main 'Toohey Forest' boulders.


Instead of parking at the main 'Toohey Forest' carpark, contInue south down Toohey Rd. Turn left at the first set of traffic lights into Fairlawn St, then take the second left into Bankside St. Follow it around and park near house number 100.

The easiest access to the boulders is to scramble up the hill just left (north) of number 100. After 10m or so, a decent path forms and boulders soon become visible just uphill of the path as it heads north: '#9', '#8' and so on. 'Layercake' and the boulders north of it are found just downhill of the path.


The eternally optimistic Bruce Taylor has found and scrubbed most of this. Sometimes he climbs here too Seep wall 6 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.047358, -27.541739 Loner 0 routes in Boulder Nom Nom Nom 9 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.047569, -27.542073


A boulder with a small hole like a mouth which is surprisingly hollow inside.


The 3rd decent looking boulder cluster as would walk south along the contour. #3 2 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.047483, -27.542602 Layercake 7 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.047570, -27.542729


A little on the sharp side, is good practice for climbing statically. #5 0 routes in Boulder Tippy 7 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.047647, -27.543278 #7 5 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.047722, -27.543539 #8 7 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.047727, -27.543757 #9 0 routes in Boulder

1.2.7. The Junkyard 15 routes in Area


Long/Lat: 153.042622, -27.547707


Nothing worldclass, and nothing like the main area, but there's treasure to be found amongst the junk.


From the Maccas, walk along the road towards the closest bit of bush, skirt around the fence next to the road. Take the track following the fenceline uphill, bending right at the end. (If you want to access the bottom of the weetbix-y quarry, go down the rocky slope here.) Keep following the track right, leaving the fenceline, and turn left when you reach an obvious wide track. Follow this for 100m or so, with the top of the cliffs about 20m to your left, until you reach a 3-way intersection. Take the rugged, right track trending downhill for 20m or so, then beeline right straight into the bush and you're in The Junkyard!

There's a bus stop just up the road.


I stumbled upon this accidentally while bushbashing back home from work one day in the Autumn of 2014. Good ol' Toohey just keeps giving. Get exploring! Pride Boulder 9 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.042831, -27.547811


The obvious featured boulder standing out from the rest in the Junkyard. This has some really nice problems that are somewhat different from most Toohey problems. There's a decent 2 metre drop-off underneath the main length of the boulder, but if you've got the balls and decent spotters, then there are some cool problems just waiting to be unlocked.

Small boulder with a lot of holds and surprisingly nice problems to the left of the large roofed boulder. kjhlkhj The Mantle Training Centre 6 routes in Boulder
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.042837, -27.548120


A low-set boulder with good holds down low, but not a lot at the top. Makes for some good low-grade mantling training. Also has Peak Boulder, a small triangle-shaped boulder with a massive loose arete on it.


Just past Pride Boulder by 10m or so, amid a cluster of smaller boulders. Can provide some good fun and gives some good lessons to the amateur mantle-ologist.

1.2.8. Lost Boys 4 routes in Area


Beware of Vampires ...


Don't come at night ... Santa Carla 4 routes in Boulder
All Boulder Hudson's Bluff 0 routes in Boulder The Sea Cave 0 routes in Boulder

1.2.9. Mushroom boulder 5 routes in Boulder


Long/Lat: 153.032980, -27.540878


Home to one quite decent V2 problem and bit more potential nearby.


Park on the corner of Davey St and Tarragindi road, there is a Toohey's forest sign and track leading east up the hill, ignore it and head about 45 deg left of the track straight up the hill on a faint track. About 50m away is 'The Mushroom', you can see the road from the boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unknown

There are 2 quality V5s on the nice wall L of the warmup. Sitstart low and up on very thin holds. Rob Appleby is the man to ask.

V5 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Warmup

Short, easy

V0- Boulder
3 Mushroom magic

Sit Start at the back wall on a side pull and undercut, move onto a good hold with your right hand, avoid the chipped hold and mantle over the blunt nose.


V4 Boulder
4 * The Mushroom

Start on the slopers at the back, or on the big jug, a couple moves through the roof on suspiciously artificial holds, then mantle up to the right.

V2 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 Back of Mushroom

Starting under the roof, then its onto the face, onto better low holds, left foot up high onto front of boulder and slap up for a small side pull. Right foot up, squeeze in and slap again for top.


1.3. White Rock Conservation Area 186 routes in Crag

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 152.857170, -27.685296

Unique Features And Strengths:

Varied bouldering on rough sandstone.


People have been bouldering at White Rock conservation park for the at least the last 30 years. The park covers a huge area with a multitude of areas scattered throughout. Lots of the areas can be accessed by a mountain bike. On a bike the half hour walk to White Rock is reduced to about 10 minutes!

Development so far, has mostly been concentrated on the area before White Rock. This park still has a huge amount of potential and undiscovered areas. So get out there brushing!

Research so far:

A mud map and some routes:










Access Issues:

Be aware that there is a rare plant that calls the boulders we climb home. It is in our interest to accommodate it. More details can be found on the ACAQ web site:



'White Rock Conservation Area' is in the suburb of Redbank Plains, half an hour or so southwest of 'Brisbane'. Driving west along the Ipswich Motorway from 'Brisbane', take the Brisbane Rd exit. Follow the signs to Redbank Plains, driving along Brisbane Rd, Queen St and then Redbank Plains Rd. Keep following Redbank Plains Rd through a couple of intersections before turning left into School Rd. Follow the road to its end, the last section being dirt, and park in the Paperbark Flats picnic area carpark at the northern end of the conservation area. Note that even though the Centenary Highway goes right past the conservation area, there isn't an exit onto School Rd.


Redbank is home to some extremely rare plants that call the top of some of our boulders home. If there are logs defining top outs please respect these and avoid trampling anything that isn't grass. For more information check out http://www.qldclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/White-Rock-Rare-Plant-Notice-4Sep13.pdf .

Be mindful of other users, don't leave rubbish or disturb any vegetation. Stick to the established tracks where possible. Do not use steel wire brushes as these will take away the holds.

1.3.1. The Board Walk 29 routes in Sector


Long/Lat: 152.848225, -27.680126


A selection of boulder problems on the small cliff faces directly below the Bluff Lookout. This is one of the Old School Areas, people have been bouldering here since before the 90's.


Follow the Six Mile Creek Track south from the carpark. Take the first turn to the right, follow the boardwalk and you'll soon see the cliffs of the Bluff Lookout.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A Nice Walk

Improbably worthwhile slab opposite Chicken, Brie, and Avacado on the other side of the track. Do it with no hands (not even pressing against the rock!) to add a grade or two and get an awesome lesson in balance!

V0 Boulder 3m
2 Chicken, Brie and Avacado

VE Stand start on the left hand side of the small boulder, just to the left of Grovel Train. Short easy warm-up

FA: Kate Reid

V0 Boulder 2m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Grovel Train

Start in middle of small face, then head right into wide crack and grovel your way to victory.

V0 Boulder 2m
4 * Slap-a-crack

Sit-start at the bottom of the crack using obvious block. Head up left, following the crack and making use of good features on the face.

V2 Boulder 3m
5 Reach, flex, repeat

Stand-start using big flake, head up and left using more big flakes to finish at the break half-way up.

V0 Boulder 3m
6 Tic-Tac Low

Start as per Hockey Stick. As you round the corner, stay low instead. Move left to small feature pinch with a low shouldery crossover crux to good hold at low on crack (rock on ground is out for feet). Move diagonally up (left of crack) using small left sidepulls and right slopers to finish.

FA: Samson Reynolds / Jeremy Ullmann, 2014

V3 Boulder
7 Hockey Stick

Next to the Crack, a nice long slabby line. Start inside, next to the crack, moving left, get onto the shelf with your feet, and tuck yourself inside the overhang. Follow the line around on the shelf on good holds, heading up and across after you move around the corner, then continue across, with the traverse ending about where the tree is.


V0 Boulder 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 * Tech Arete

Stand start the base and balance up the arete to jugs, make your way towards lip building courage as you go. Hidden holds lead to mantle. Top inspection and a clear head recommended.

FFA: @callan, 2015

V4 Boulder 6m
9 ** Crack

Stand-start using the right leaning crack, head straight-up to finish with a big move to the hold under the roof. One of the classic problems of the area.

V4 Boulder 4m
10 Crack exension

Continue left at the end of crack via the pockets beneath the roof. Keep going till your standing on top of gaston the grey.

Boulder Project
11 Y Front

Start as The Crack but carry on up obvious line to finish. Brad

V7 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Thin-devil Boulder 3m
13 Gaston the Grey

Start on the grey streak and side pull or gaston your way up. a Huge footer at the base gives it the split grade. Much easier if your 6 foot or taller.

FFA: michael garraghy, 2011

V6 Boulder 3m
14 Short and Crack

Up the obvious wide crack in the corner, bridging on some nice percussive rock.

V0 Boulder 2m
15 Rock-skating

Stand-start using flake, then straight up with some nice footless sections.

V2 Boulder 2m
16 Iron-stone crimp technique

Stand-start on small iron-stone edges and ok feet, straight up.

V3 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 Tarte Tatin arete

Sit-start up the arete

FA: Dan gordon & Sam Bowman, 2013

V4 Boulder 3m
18 ** Edges like a babies bum

Stand start on good edge, head straight up on decent holds.

V2 Boulder 3m
19 * European Cave Man

Sit start at base of obvious flake, up flake trending left to top out.

V1 Boulder 4m
20 Ollie's supersonic scrubber

Stand start up crack then head right to mantle obvious overhanging shelf. The boulder and wall to the right are out.

FFA: @johnnys, 2015

V4 to V5 Boulder 3m
21 C'mon more energy!

Stand-start on the left hand side of slab, straight up in a test of your single-leg strength. The wall to your left is not in.

V0 Boulder 2m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
22 * Slab-n-pop

Stand-start on right hand side of slab using obvious foot, straight-up.

V3 Boulder 3m
23 *** Tree Fall

Sit-start using high right-side pull (shorties may need to stack mats), head up using some good breaks, awesome fun. May be a little bit harder for shorties.

V4 Boulder 4m
24 * And Better

Stand-start using good edges and big foot above the left hand side of the small cave. Tend up and a little right.

V3 Boulder 4m
25 It Gets Better

Stand-start on the right hand side of the small cave, head up and slightly right.

V1 Boulder 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
26 Big Triangle

VE Squat start with hands on good edge, up and mantle. Easy, somehow fun

V0 Boulder 3m
27 Flakey

Sit start at the bottom of the left leaning crack, then head up and left.

V0 Boulder 2m
28 Sunday afternoon slabwalk

VE Stand start, straight up the middle of the slab

V0 Boulder 3m
29 A little more action

VE Stand start in the shallow corner on the right hand side of the slab.

V0 Boulder 3m

1.3.2. Slab Land 25 routes in Sector


Long/Lat: 152.854118, -27.683433


Walk along the dirt track past little white rock until you come to a brown sign saying (something like): "Conservation Park Boundary". On the other side of the track is where you head from here. Once you arrive at the rocks, just turn right until you find Arabesque!

Descent Notes:

On the way out - you may come across a barbed wire fence - to avoid stepping over this and potentially injuring yourself on the rusty barbs and needing a tetanus shot (not that that happened to me), follow the fence to the right until the fence stops.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Petit Pas

A direct start to Arabesque Left. Stand start with good R crimp and slopey left crimp. Tiny/no footholds to begin, giving way to not much more. If you are still on, finish as for AL.

FFA: @reido, 2015

V5 Boulder 3m
2 *** Arabesque Left

Left trending slab starting on same finger pocket of Arabesque, then trend left on pockets and slopers. Finish on far Left at top of boulder. First accent not known.

FA: Unknown

V5 Boulder 4m
3 *** Arabesque

Super balancy slab.

FA: Dan Gordon, 2013

V3 Boulder 3m
4 Bourree

Starts around the corner from Arabesque

FA: Lauren Walker, 2013

V1 Boulder 3m
5 damn hard slab

Very hard to pull on and move. Was almost sent until eddy burril snapped the crucial footer. Alas still a proj.

Boulder Project 3m
6 Waiting For The Sun

Go up from crimps around the corner from damn hard slab

FA: Gabriel, 2014

V1 Boulder 2m
7 Grand adage

Balance is key

FA: Elizabeth Cuskelly, 2013

V5 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Angie's Crack

Up the crack for a legal high

FA: Angie Davies, 2013

V0 Boulder 2m
9 Angie's Arete

Up the arete opposite Slimper Assis.

FFA: Angie Davies, 2013

V0 Boulder 2m
10 ** Slimper assis

FA: Dan Gordon (Stand), Sam Bowman (Sit), 2013

V5 Boulder
11 * Que onda guero?

Stand start up the cool pockets with a HARD committing mantle. Sit start is yet to go..

FA: Sam Bowman, 2013

V7 Boulder
12 Alex is in the orchid

Start in a sit start down left and and climb up to obvious ledge and mantle out. Watch the orchids.

FA: Alex Turnbull, 2013

V2 Boulder
13 Arete con slab

Nice little slab which is great for a warm up. Use the arete and your balance.

FA: Lauren Walker, 2013

V1 Boulder
14 * The egg man

An awesome addition by the master of slab Nick Tierney. Without the right skills this short beauty may feel harder. A great lesson in climbing and mantling without holds. Footwork, balance, palm downs, whaling, groveling - its got it all.

FA: Nick Tierney

V2 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
15 * Tongue arete

Sit start the arete and proceed through some hard crimping. Get ready to be greeted by an interesting lip move and challenging mantle. Please do not brush off the tongue orchids. Great fun problem.

FFA: Elizabeth cuskelly, 2013

V4 Boulder 3m
16 The Gecko Arete

Sit start and head left, finish standing on the top of the free-standing flake. A gecko bravely sacrificed itself during the cleaning of this problem.

FA: Nicholas Tierney, 2013

V0 Boulder
17 * Brendans undercling trap

Stand start and move in and out of the awesome huge undercling. Hardish mantle.

FFA: Brendan Fraser, 2013

V2 Boulder 3m
18 Mistery?

Somethings probably here?

Boulder Project
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
19 * Hyperextension

Sit start on a good right edge and with one hand on the arete. Simply launch for the top and mantle. So short but so hard. Sorry to all the shortys out there.

FFA: Daniel Gordon, 2013

V6 Boulder
20 Easy mantel

Stand start for an easy mantel.

FA: Nick Tierney, 2013

V0 Boulder 2m
21 That's going straight to the poolroom

Stand start and mantel on good hold

FA: Johnny Schwartz, 2013

V1 Boulder 2m
22 * Downpour

Stand start from the blocky jug.

FA: Todd Herriott, 2014

V0 Boulder 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
23 Slab of Meat

Stand start easy slab up the left hand side of the face

FA: Johnny Schwartz, 2013

V0 Boulder 2m
24 Slab of beer

Stand start on the ground in between the two boulders, slab-it-up to the top.

FA: Eddie Burrill, 2013

V2 Boulder 3m
25 Slab of Concrete

Stand start up the arete with the huge pockets. A bit committing.

FA: Johnny Schwartz, 2013

V2 Boulder 4m

1.3.3. Little White Rock 36 routes in Sector


Long/Lat: 152.851074, -27.681021


A collection of small cliffs and large boulders found behind Little White Rock. Also known as Antiquity, after the classic V5 put up by Rob Saunders, originally done as a V8 straight mantle.

At the back of Little White Rock there's an old sign pole with no sign. At the pole head off the main track(away from little white rock). Follow track around for approx 80m's.

Behind little white rock, off the main track ahead (away for lwr) and around the right hand side of the small cliffs and boulders.


From the carpark head down the main 4wd track. Walk straight along it till you come to the sign and the path that says Little White Rock, follow the path till you get to the lookout. The views pretty uninspiring, so keep walking around to the opposite side of Little White Rock.

15 Minutes



RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 L Face

Sit start on small positive holds. Holds over the top to keep the mantle friendly.

V1 Boulder 2m
2 R Face

Sit start and up positive holds.

V0 Boulder 2m
3 Better than usual soft rock

Tricky little problem from hard sit start to horrible mantle high up. Nick W.

FA: Nick W

V2 Boulder
4 R Arete

Tough sit start on crimps, feet up and up to the R of the arete.

V2 Boulder 2m Antiquity area 32 routes in Sector
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 152.851341, -27.681345

1.3.4. The Bat Cave 5 routes in Boulder


Long/Lat: 152.847905, -27.689242


The Bat Cave is located at S27° 41.361 E152° 50.864. From the School Road car park, walk south 1200 metres along the track to White Rock At the three-way, turn right and walk 460 metres to a step-through gate. The cave is 258 metres south of the gate at 185° magnetic in the trees past the grassy field. Best approach is to follow the motorbike track on your left after the gate then head right towards the cave through the field and trees.

Old description: "Another area, The Batcave, is situated a couple of km from the carpark. Follow the path for about 1200m until you hit a road. Walk right down the road for about 500m until an open field appears on your left. Just visable through the trees is an orange chossy wall. On the far right of this wall is a cleft opening at the base. Crawl inside this cave to discover a good selection of very steep test pieces! It is waterproof, well lit and it blocks the noise of those anoying trailbikes." - Neil Monteith

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Bane

another fantastic hard problem starting on the lip of the cave and finishing on the inside. Start in the obvious bowl on the lip and blast your way into the cave. Keep the tension and make sure you don't dab. finish at the central big flake inside the roof.

FA: sam Bowman, 2015

V8 Boulder 4m
2 ** The joker

Start laying down underneath the right side of the cave. Pull on with a cool little ironstone crimp and a right hand sloper. Do some powerful moes to end in the central juggy flake inside the cave.

FA: sam Bowman, 2015

V6 Boulder 3m
3 * Alfred

Climb the cool pinchy rail inside the cave till the big jug at the end

FA: Not sure, 2000

V6 Boulder 3m
4 Ride The Rainbow

cool ceiling crack/shelf line, options

Boulder Project
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 ** Robin

Sit start under the obvious scoop in the middle of the cave's lip then blast up the the wall to top out.

V3 Boulder 3m

1.3.5. SuperHard to Miss 17 routes in Sector


Long/Lat: 152.856541, -27.684221


Head up the main track from the carpark until you hit the T-intersection and the big tree. Here head left and keep following this track, ignoring the right turn that takes you to white rock. Follow the track for 500m or so until you see the obvious, 'SuperHard to miss', cave up on your right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Peppermint Bristlenose

Sit-start then up corner using crack.

FA: Nathan O'Donnel & Johnny Schwartz, 2014

V2 Boulder 2m
2 Mantel proj #1

Sit-start/hanging start on the obvious rail.

Boulder Project 2m
3 Mantel proj #2

Sit-start/hanging start on obvious rail.

Boulder 2m
4 1 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 An elephant in the room

Stand-start up slab to the left of the cave (start left of the tree)

FA: Nicholas Tierney & Johnny Schwartz

V2 Boulder 3m
6 3

Stand-start up the tall slab (right-side of boulder)

V1 Boulder 4m
7 4

Stand-start up the tall slab (left-side of boulder)

V2 Boulder 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 ** hueco spanks

Start by climbing through a giant hueco on the right side of the cave and then straight up to mantle.

FA: phil beattie, 2013

V2 Boulder 3m
9 *** When Pigs Fly

Start sitting, then move up the crack before moving right on some small edges to get to the lip. Be careful mantling out.

FA: Sam Bowman, 2015

V10 Boulder 3m
10 * dreamweaver

Start at the back middle of the cave and figure out some way to get to the small undercling and other bad holds in the middle of the roof

V13 Boulder Project 4m
11 ** shortsight

Hard line right of wrestle mania starting very low and eventually blasting through the roof. Its all there!

V10 Boulder Project 4m
12 * Wrestlemania

Start further in the cave and move out to the arete and finish up OHT

FFA: Brendan fraser, 2013

V6 Boulder 3m
13 ** Overhead Transparency

Sit-start then start slapping up the fridge.

FA: Daniel Gordon, 2013

V5 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Slab King Boulder

Obvious slab boulder 20m to the left of the main Super Hard to Miss cave. Some cool slopey slab lines here.

14 * Jesus, Take the Wheel

Up slab with nice high feet, until up high, where you give Jesus the wheel and leave the rest to him.

FA: Brae Hilditch, 2015

V2 Boulder 4m
15 * Slab King Pro

Start to the right of Choose Wisely with good feet to start off with. Up really nice slab, climbing through the thin flakeline.

FA: Alex Mougenot, 2015

V2 Boulder 4m
16 Choose Wisely

Straight up the left hand side of the boulder. Choose your holds up high wisely.

FA: Brae Hilditch, 2015

V0 Boulder 4m
17 ** Taste Tester

A link up of all the problems on the boulder. Some awesome stepthrough moves that make you feel like a slab pro. Step up Choose Wisely, then immediately traverse right up and across Slab King Pro, then tell Jesus to take the wheel, finishing up this.

FA: Alex Mougenot, 2015

V2 Boulder 4m

1.3.6. so long gravity 8 routes in Sector


Long/Lat: 152.857870, -27.684861


A decent cave surrounded by boulders and cracks

Climbed in August 2013 by Dan g, Sam B, Alex t and liz C as an extension to developing the super hard to miss cave. Later efforts were added that year by UQMC on a bouldering trip led by nick tierney and phil beattie.

A great battle went on between Elliot leech and Matt cochrane for the first ascent of trebuchet and thus elliot sent it one attempt before matt. Hence we have to live with the name 'the buff breasted button quail', elliots favourite quail and also the rarest of quails in Australia.


Traveling up the main track until you have hit the t intersection next to the massive white tree then head left until you see the obvious "Super-hard to miss" cave. Head directly past the superhard to miss cave, head about 100m past this and you will find another cave surrounded by an oasis of boulders.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Stereopsis

On a nice boulder left of the cave their is a great line of crimps on the left side. it makes you traverse a bit and then top out.

FFA: nick tierney, 2013

V1 Boulder 3m
2 * Pink elephant

the really cool smeary blank slab on the right side of the cave

FFA: Dan gordon, 2013

Boulder 3m
3 * Got the blinkers on

From the right arete arc to the left onto jugs and then top out. Cool traverse across the lip of the cave.

FFA: Dan Gordon, 2013

V4 Boulder 3m
4 * Deep depths of hell

Start inside the cave way back and traverse left. Be greeted by some funkiness at the lip and then link into 'got the blinkers on'

FFA: @flashpumpgordon, 2014

V5 Boulder 4m
5 ** Trebuchet aka 'the buff breasted button quail'

Start laying down at the entrance to the cave. Take the 2 shit lowmholds and a beasty toe hook. Load your self up like a spring and then release. Hold the cut loose and don't dab! finish as for 'got the blinkers on'

FFA: Elliot Leech, 2013

V8 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 *** Tylers crack

A nice clean crack climb,its about an inch wide

Set by Mitch Surtees/ Tyler Day, 2014

FFA: Tyler Day, 2014

FA: Tyler Day, 2014

{US} V2 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 ** The Route Formerly Known as Mousecop

Set by Mitch Surtees/ Tyler Day, 2014

FFA: Tyler Day, 2014

FA: Tyler Day, 2014

{US} V1 Boulder 3m
8 ** Pathway to insanity

FFA: -

FA: -

Set by Mitch Surtees/ Tyler Day, 2014

{US} V3 Boulder 3m

1.3.7. The Underground 19 routes in Sector


Long/Lat: 152.857780, -27.682725


The underground offers some of the most featured, fun roof bouldering around. A stellar cave that has problems getting closer to routes in length. Outside the cave offers some steep fun easier lines. This is a great summer bouldering spot as it doesn't get the afternoon sun and stays relatively cool, being mostly underground.


From the car park follow the road until you reach the large T intersection with the huge white gum tree, from here turn left and follow the road (ignoring the road to the white rock). Continue up the hill until the road takes a right hand turn and there's a small very blank boulder on your right. Here turn right off the road and follow the trail. The Underground is approximately 100m down the trail. Approach takes about 20 - 30 minutes.


Found by Dan Gordon and Alex Turnbull 2013. Pictures and topo by Peter Crane

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 OutBound

Start as for Lazarus but escape around the left corner of the cave.

FFA: Harry Bowman, 2013

V0 Boulder
2 * Lazarus

Start to the left of the cave entrance and follow the obvious holds along the lip. Finish as for Too Soft.

FA: Alex Turnbull, 2013

V2 Boulder 4m
3 Aiokiasof / Andy Aiokiasof

Start at beginning of 'Too Soft', boulder 'Orient Express' in reverse and finish on the round pocket of 'In Transit'. Original first ascent at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ytHPlIJcl4s Solid V4 or soft V5.

V4 Boulder 5m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Too Soft

Start on good holds on the lip of cave. Continue through mantle top-out.

FA: Peter & Madeleine, 2013

V1 Boulder 4m
5 *** Trans-Siberian

Sit start on good sloper and campus out towards mantle.

FFA: Sam Bowman, 2013

V4 Boulder
6 *** Pendeltåg

Start inside cave on the left. Obvious hole leads to shelf and joins Shinkansen at the compression moves. Finish as for Too Soft.

FFA: Patrik Banda, 2013

V6 Boulder
7 *** Shinkansen

Sit-start at the back of the cave on obvious holds and follow the nice line out of the cave. Mantle to top-out.

FA: Sam Bowman, 2013

V6 Boulder 10m
8 ** Zig Zag Railway

Start at the end of the back rail left of Shinkasen. traverse left past Metro Papineau start and finally transfert onto the shelve. Finish as Metro Papineau.

FA: Ross Fergusson, 2013

V4 Boulder
9 ** Métro Papineau

Start at the mushroom hold in the middle of the cave. A drop down move get you onto the big shelve. Reach under for Orient Express pockets. Finish as Shinkasen. Pumper.

FA: Antoine Moussette, 2013

V4 Boulder 6m
10 ** Supa Chief

Start at the back of the cave, right of 'Shinkansen' on obvious holds. Traverse right on the jugs and across the first and then the second "gap" pulling some hard moves to finish doing 'Polar Express'. Pumpy!

Set by @rhysphillips,Paul Cochrane, 2015

FA: Paul Cochrane, 2015

V7 Boulder
11 Platform 9 3/4's Project

[eliminate] The stunning line at the entrance of the cave. Start at middle of Orient Express and blast straight out of cave through blank section. eliminates the big sidepull on the right side.

V12 Boulder Project
12 ** Mind the Gap

Start on obvious jug in the middle back of the cave. drop down onto the rail that is exiting the cave until you reach the end then proceed right to big move across the gap then out up polar express through the pocket and on to hang finish at the ledge.

FA: Lachlan Pearson, 2013

V3 Boulder
13 * The Flying Scotsman

Sit Start inside on the right side of the cave on two pinches, pull on, stem out to rail and head out to the mantle. Pull on to the rail for a more natural start and you can have a 4.

FFA: Sam Bowman, 2013

V5 Boulder 8m
14 *** Orient Express

Start inside the cave mid-way in (to the right side - first possible sit start) on obvious holds. Follow the big rail and finish as for Too Soft.

FA: Sam Bowman, 2013

V4 Boulder 4m
15 Via Rail

Set by Antoine M & Brendan F., 2013

V8 to V11 Boulder Project 5m
16 Polar Express

Start as for Orient Express and blast straight up out of the cave. Cleaned with Matt's hands on first ascent...May need a brush still.

FFA: Matt Cochrane, 2013

V3 Boulder
17 Train Ard

Start in big Hueco and traverse left into Polar Express

Set by Antoine M, 2013

V3 Boulder Project
18 In Transit

Sit start on good holds, move through a pair of friendly pockets and continue to an interesting mantle.

FA: Boyd Wilcocks, 2013

V1 Boulder
19 ** Can you be a worthy crag dog?

Start as for Lazarus but rather than topping out Too Soft, continue traversing along lip. Top out at the highest point of the cave directly above the large boulder on the ground.

FA: Robert O'Connell, 2013

V4 Boulder

1.3.8. SuperHard Wall 29 routes in Crag


Long/Lat: 152.858659, -27.687590


This area is notoriously difficult to find, it was originally known as "The Super Hard To Find Wall". However, with increased traffic and a bit of track work it is getting easier to get to. If you're not good at following a faint trail and winging it, it's probably best the first time you go, to go with someone who knows where the area is.

This wall is home to Queensland's hardest boulder problem and the highest concentration of good, hard bouldering in Brisbane. If you want V8+ this is the wall for you. This area also has a good sprinkling of sub V5 problems. The wall, as all boulders in Redbank are, is sandstone. This isn't grampians super compact perfection, but it's pretty spectacular for Queensland sandstone.


From the carpark follow the dirt road until you reach the big T-intersection with the big gum tree. Turn left and follow this dirt road about 200 meters, ignoring the first dirt road on your right which takes you to White Rock. Take the second right - signposted 'White Rock Ridge Track'. Follow the track until the rocky outcrop comes into view, keep an eye out on the left side of the track for a guidepost with a small smiley face drawn on it.

At guidepost turn left off the main track and follow faint trail past small rocky outcrop 50m from track. From here go down and right, following faint trail occasionally lined by logs, until you reach a large burnt black tree on the edge of lantana valley. Continue straight past burnt tree until path turns left into lantana valley. Follow path through the valley and up onto hill. From here you should be able to see the Gift of the Gab wall. The super hard wall is about 100m around to the left.


Discovered by Glen Eaton at work in early 2011. Warm-up slabs 4 routes in Sector
All Boulder

This area is the collection of boulders you first come to about 100m before the Super hard wall itself. It includes Gift of the Gab (V7) and a collection of easier problems. A great warm up area before tackling the main wall. Main wall 21 routes in Sector
All Boulder

The obvious main wall, located about 100m past the warm-up slabs. This includes the Dejableau boulder, a small slab just before the main wall and the Mach 3 boulder, a small slab to the right of the main wall. Wayne's World 4 routes in Sector
All Boulder

Small eel-like wall that offers some worthwhile easy warm-ups. Great for beginners. Please avoid breaking any hollow flakes and edges as there are sufficient solid holds for all the problems. Also, leave the fallen tree where it is, it's keeping the eel in place.


Walk 20 metres left of 'Main Wall'[331555905] to find a small slab just after the fallen black tree.

1.3.9. Tatooine 17 routes in Sector


Long/Lat: 152.860210, -27.688139


The native home of the Tusken raiders (or Sand people). Hosts a collection of exceptional steep boulder problems, in the fashion of the Redbank area, a relatively sandy setting.


From the SuperHard to find main wall, head directly left (when facing the wall) for about 200 m until you come across a short cliff band. Head right along this until you reach the main caves.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 You're too old to be a Jedi

Starts on large jug on far right of cave, follow big features straight up to finish on ledge halfway up wall. The grade is for the descent.

FA: Blake Stringer, 2014

V1 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Thai Hooker

Start at base of flake at the back of cave, follow flake upwards to finish at end of flake.

FA: Alex Turnbull, 2013

V0 Boulder 2m
3 * Sandstorm

Start at base of flake (same start as Thai Hooker) at the back of the cave, traverse left along flakes to finish at big jug on arete.

FA: James Douglas, 2013

V3 Boulder 1m
4 ** Gravel Pit

Start on jug at bottom left of cave, traverse right then up on thin face holds, before powerful move to gain big finishing jug.

FA: Daniel Gordon, 2013

V4 Boulder 3m
5 * A Mystery Unravel It

Extension to gravel pit, up the corner to top out. A bit poopy.

FA: Sam Bowman, 2013

V6 Boulder 5m
6 Sandpiper

Starts same as Gravel Pit, except head right and finish as for Thai Hooker

FA: Elizabeth Cuskelly, 2013

V2 Boulder 2m
7 ** The line to Beattie

Start below jabba the sluts jug, then head right on poor holds to finish at Gravel Pit jug. A higher harder version of Gravel Pit. Even if you want to use jabbas jug it's still hard.

FA: Phil Beattie, 2013

V5 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 ** Jabba the Slut

The very obvious and scary looking rounded arete that splits the crag in two. Have fun and be safe. Serious poo territory.

FA: Sam bowman, 2015

V3 Boulder 7m
9 * The End of Days

Super committing line on the slab just to the right of the main cave. High with the crux at the top-out. Not the hardest line in the cave definitely the most serious. Prep really well for this problem. Skull n cross bones with poop everywhere.

FA: Sam Bowman, 2013

V3 Boulder 6m
10 ** Sebulba

Start on the big pocket near the arete, just out of the cave. Blast up high to the lip on some cool powerful moves. A mighty huge commiting throw guards this beast. Bring a fresh pair of undies for the top. Rap inspecting the mantle may be a good idea.

FFA: sam bowman, 2015

V6 Boulder 4m
11 ** These aren't the jugs you are looking for

Start on big flake right of Tuscan Raider, big move then head left and up to finish as for Tuscan Raider. No second ascent yet, beware the grade. cough sandbag cough.

FA: Sam Bowman, 2013

V4 Boulder 4m
12 Jaja binks he's cool

Start on the Juggy flake between TATJYLF and Tusken Raider. Pull out a long way to a jug left of the giant flake jug before crossing to it. Super classic problem by HB.

FFA: Harry Bowman, 2015

V1 Boulder 2m
13 ** Uncle Owen's BBQ Ribs

Links the start of "These aren't the jugs you are looking for" into the crux of Tuscan Raider - slightly easier than TR.

FA: Sam Bowman, 2013

V8 Boulder 4m
14 *** Tuscan Raider

Start on big undercling, head straight out through roof on some small holds. Finish with a real mantle. Powerful, techy, steep and poopy - it's got it all.

FA: Sam Bowman, 2013

V8 Boulder 5m
15 *** Smouldering Jawas

Rad sit-start on block under roof to small undercling, then punch to to cool looking flake. Sooo bloody awesome and burly. Make sure you have a fair few pads.

Used to be the Jango fett project, but our authenticity checks clarified that Jango was never actually on tatooine we think. Unless he went there on a holiday at some point, but seriously who would go to mos eisley for a holiday, so it's kind of unlikely.

FFA: Sam Bowman, 2015

V10 Boulder Project 3m
16 ** The mighty Sarlak

Climb the obvious fridge feature. deep from in the cave. Slap side to side and try and work out the wacky puzzle at the lip. Don't get swallowed up by the giant monster!!

FA: sam bowman, 2015

V12 Boulder Project 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 Obi-Wans Revenge

Stand start at the base of scoop, straight up and mantle lip.

FFA: Harry Bowman, 2015

V1 Boulder 4m

1.3.10. White Rock 1 route in Feature


Long/Lat: 152.864744, -27.694883



RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Endless summer

Sit start the crimp rail, big move to the cool pocket then mantle. Maybe v1+ ?

FA: James Blackhall, 2015

1 Boulder 3m

1.4. Springwood Conservation Park 60 routes in Crag

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.142509, -27.624402

Unique Features And Strengths:

Not as sharp as Tooheys. 3-4m high.


Only two ares have been documented here but there is lots of rock that when we cleaned, provided some great problems at lower grades.

1.4.1. Bong boulder 1 route in Boulder


Long/Lat: 153.141417, -27.622738