Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Brisbane 932 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Boulder, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.970895, -27.469074

Description:

'Brisbane' is the third largest city in 'Australia' and capital of the state of 'Queensland'. It's situated in the state's subtropical southeast. Climbing in the city essentially means one thing: 'Kangaroo Point'. An ex-quarry in a riverside park right in the city centre, it's some of the most easily accessible rockclimbing in the world.

Aside from 'KP', Brisbane has some reasonable bouldering at 'Toohey Forest' and 'White Rock', as well as a number of climbing gyms, such as 'Urban Climb'. Heading out of the city, there are plenty of crags within an hour or two's drive, including classics like 'Frog Buttress' and the 'Glasshouse Mountains'.

1.1. Kangaroo Point 369 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 153.034115, -27.478170

Unique Features And Strengths:

Urban crag par excellence!

Description:

'Kangaroo Point', affectionately known to locals as 'KP', is Brisbane's outdoor climbing gym. It is one of the most user-friendly crags around, with gigantic concrete bollards at the top of the 20m high cliff face for setting up anchors. Perfectly flat grass awaits your bouldering falls. Free barbeques lay in ready for your post(and pre?)-climb feast. Night lights allow you to climb into the wee hours of the morning. The river awaits your...hmm...actually, don't worry about the river. Caked-on chalk, climbers on top-ropes galore, a few chipped holds and bolts, bolts, bolts. Get it into ya!

Since almost every square metre of 'KP' rock is utilised, the routes are of widely varying quality. The crag is most popular with top roping beginners who do low quality routes in the 14-17 bracket. Most of the better climbing is found on grade 20+ routes. The rock is Volcanic Tuff (like Smith Rocks in the US). The majority of routes are bolted face climbs. There are a few cracks around, but they are rare and not particularly inspiring. Generally, the rock has a quarried texture and is often sandy.

Many of the bolts at 'KP' are newer ring bolts (RB in the descriptions). There are also fixed hangers (FH), as well as some carrot bolts (BR) for which bolt plates are required. Most, though not all, of the sports routes have double bolt belays (DBB) for lowering off. The bolts are maintained by the volunteers of Safer Cliffs Queensland, funded entirely by donations from climbers.

The cliffs face northwest and become scorching hot when the summer sun hits them mid morning, so climb early or in the evening under lights. Outside the summer months climbing is pleasant all day. The rock dries quickly after rain due to the direct sun.

It's easy to be lulled into a false sense of safety at 'KP' with such easy access and all its facilities. However, it is still a cliff and falls of (often large) rocks occur not infrequently. Serious injuries have occurred. Treat 'KP' with respect and always wear your helmet.

Access Issues:

The cliffs are part of the Brisbane City Council River Terrace Park. While the BCC is generally supportive of climbing, issues regarding access and facilities are ongoing. The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is the official voice of the climbing community in Queensland and works hard to improve the situation for all climbers. Please consider joining.

Approach:

The cliffs are located right beside the Brisbane River, just below River Terrace in the suburb of Kangaroo Point.

The riverside bikepath runs right past the base of the cliffs and there's a CityCycle station too.

The nearest train station is South Bank, about 10 minutes walk south. The nearest bus stop is over on Main St near the River Tce intersection. The nearest CityCat ferry stops are South Bank 1 & 2 and QUT, both about 15 minutes walk south along the river. The free CityHopper ferry stops at Thornton St, about 10 minutes walk north. For further public transport information see TransLink.

When it's not busy (during business hours) you can easily park at the base of the cliff. Failing that you can usually find a park up top on River Terrace.

Where To Stay:

While it's tempting to park a campervan in the bottom carpark and live the ultimate urban dirtbag life, the BCC and the police are strict about no overnight camping here. There's plenty of accommodation options around Brisbane, including backpackers for those on a budget.

Ethic:

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • Avoid lowering off directly through the anchors. All lowering off and top roping should be through quickdraws attached to the anchors. If you are last then rethread and rap off to avoid wearing the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.

1.1.1. KP North (closed) 39 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 153.034778, -27.475832

Description:

This is the northern-most section of the 'Kangaroo Point' cliffs, beginning at the stone stairs and continuing north to where the cliff ends near Riverlife. CLIMBING IS CURRENTLY PROHIBITED HERE!

The Australian Climbing Association (Qld) is currently negotiating the reopening of at least part of this section of cliff. In order not to jeopardise these negotiations, please do not climb here. Please do join the ACAQ.

Climbs are listed from left to right.

1.1.2. Left Main Wall 113 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 153.034342, -27.478173

Description:

The leftmost (northern) section of the main cliff at 'Kangaroo Point'. It extends from the northern end of the main cliff at the stone stairs to the waterfall in the middle of the main cliff. The waterfall actually only flows during torrential rain but its associated creekbed, bridge and vegetation make it an obvious demarcation point.

Climbs are listed from left to right. There are bollards at the top for top rope anchors.

1.1.3. Right Main Wall 135 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 153.033384, -27.480200

Description:

The rightmost (southern) section of the main cliff at 'Kangaroo Point'. It extends from the waterfall in the middle of the main cliff to the southern end of the main cliff at the metal stairs. The waterfall actually only flows during torrential rain but its associated creekbed, bridge and vegetation make it an obvious demarcation point.

Climbs are listed from left to right. There are bollards at the top for top rope anchors.

1.1.4. Nursery Cliffs 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 153.032714, -27.481410

Description:

This small easy cliff is separate to the main cliff at 'Kangaroo Point'. It has a series of (not very imaginatively named) climbs perfect for beginners.

Climbs are listed from left to right. There are bollards at the top for top rope anchors.

Approach:

You can get to the base of the 'Nursery Cliffs' by walking up the metal stairs at the rightmost (southern) end of the main cliff, by walking down the stairs next to the gazebo on River Terrace or by walking/driving up Lower River Terrace off Ellis St.

The top is accessible directly off River Terrace.

1.1.5. Bouldering 68 routes in Field

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

It's rare to be at 'Kangaroo Point' and not see at least one person bouldering their way along the base of the cliff. Much less common is seeing someone bouldering with any degree of intent beyond working on their finger strength while their mates are too busy to climb. The reason for this is that, well, 'KP' just isn't that great for bouldering. But of course, no cliff could be climbed by so many without someone coming up with some boulder problems and to be fair, there are a few decent ones scattered around.

Other places to boulder in 'Brisbane'[11742955] include 'Toohey Forest'[11811511] and 'Springwood Conservation Park'[11811487].

1.2. Toohey Forest 218 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.049059, -27.541222

Unique Features And Strengths:

Hidden boulders in one of the largest remnants of bush in Brisbane

Description:

'Toohey Forest' is a large area of bushland in the southern suburbs of Brisbane. Scattered throughout the forest are innumerable small sandstone boulders. There's heaps of problems and it's nice & shady, so many summer afternoons and many many layers of fingertip skin have been lost here!

Access Issues:

'Toohey Forest' is owned by the Brisbane City Council. It's an important habitat for 400 plants and animals, and is very popular with walkers, joggers and picnicking families. Therefore the usual rules of taking out your rubbish, keeping noise to a minimum and so on are particularly important here if climbing is to remain an acceptable activity in the eyes of the community.

Approach:

'Toohey Forest' is about 10 km south of Brisbane city. The best access for most of the boulders is from the car park just off Toohey Road, Tarragindi.

View car park on Google Maps

To get there by public transport, take the bus to Griffith University's Nathan campus which adjoins the forest. For public transport information see TransLink.

Where To Stay:

Camping isn't allowed at 'Toohey Forest'.

History:

Back in the mists of time a rough typed guide call the "Prawn guide" by Rob Appleby with additions by Lee Skidmore.

in 2012 Bruce Taylor made a good effort to make a new guide, which was then merged all together into theCrag to try and make sense of it all.

Various tidbits of route names have been gleaned from Qurank and elsewhere. This guide is very much a work in progress, if you see issues please fix them or contact brendan.heywood@gmail.com

1.2.1. Hill top area 8 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 153.043454, -27.537738

Approach:

From the main car park just off Toohey Rd, follow the Toohey Ridge Track (it's the leftmost of the tracks and is sealed) for roughly 200m until you get to the "Margaret Collins Bench". From behind the bench, follow the dirt path up the hill for 20m to reach the 'Top of the Hill' boulder. Keep going uphill another 20m to get to the 'Bum start boulder' and 'Hobo's Haven'.

1.2.2. Lookout 16 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 153.042828, -27.538438

1.2.3. Northern area 37 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 153.044662, -27.538314

Approach:

From the main car park just off Toohey Rd, follow the Toohey Ridge Track (it's the leftmost of the tracks and is sealed) for about 5 minutes until reaching a long wooden bridge/walkway. The 'Northern Area' boulders are found just downhill of the track at various points from here on.

1.2.4. Swimming pool boulders 13 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 153.047339, -27.538600

Description:

The 'Swimming Pool Boulders' is a cluster of four boulders on the northern boundary of the forest, very close to a house with a swimming pool. The house owners do not hassle climbers, so please be quiet and courteous in return.

Approach:

These boulders are about 200m east of the 'Northern Area' boulders, so one way of finding them is to follow the northern boundary east from the 'Northern Area' for about 5 minutes. You can also walk west along the boundary from the Grass Tree Track which starts at the end of Cheval St, or (if you're very discrete) duck through the vacant block at 47 Barnehurst St.

1.2.5. Main area 97 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 153.044885, -27.539561

Description:

The densest and best quality boulders at Toohey.

Approach:

From the main car park just off Toohey Rd, follow the Toohey Ridge Track (it's the leftmost of the tracks and is sealed) for 5 minutes or so, passing the wooden bridge and the intersection with the Sandstone Circuit. You'll come to a weird Y in the bitumen that looks like the track was built wrong. Turn right along the bitumen then immediately veer downhill on a small dirt path. After about 20m the path peters out. Continue straight ahead, dropping down between two boulders. The overhanging boulder on the right (facing downhill) is the 'Unleash the Dancer Boulder', while the slabby one on the left is the 'Cobble Slab'.

1.2.6. Bankside 42 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 153.047582, -27.542779

Description:

A string of small boulders set apart from the main 'Toohey Forest' boulders.

Approach:

Instead of parking at the main 'Toohey Forest' carpark, contInue south down Toohey Rd. Turn left at the first set of traffic lights into Fairlawn St, then take the second left into Bankside St. Follow it around and park near house number 100.

The easiest access to the boulders is to scramble up the hill just left (north) of number 100. After 10m or so, a decent path forms and boulders soon become visible just uphill of the path as it heads north: '#9', '#8' and so on. 'Layercake' and the boulders north of it are found just downhill of the path.

History:

The eternally optimistic Bruce Taylor has found and scrubbed most of this. Sometimes he climbs here too :)

1.2.7. Mushroom boulder 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 153.032980, -27.540878

Description:

Home to one quite decent V2 problem and bit more potential nearby.

Approach:

Park on the corner of Davey St and Tarragindi road, there is a Toohey's forest sign and track leading east up the hill, ignore it and head about 45 deg left of the track straight up the hill on a faint track. About 50m away is 'The Mushroom', you can see the road from the boulder.

1.3. White Rock Conservation Area 128 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 152.857170, -27.685296

Unique Features And Strengths:

Varied bouldering on rough sandstone.

Description:

People have been bouldering at White Rock conservation park for the at least the last 30 years. The park covers a huge area with a multitude of areas scattered throughout. Lots of the areas can be accessed by a mountain bike. On a bike the half hour walk to White Rock is reduced to about 10 minutes!

Development so far, has mostly been concentrated on the area before White Rock. This park still has a huge amount of potential and undiscovered areas. So get out there brushing!

Research so far:

A mud map and some routes:

http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=crag&crag_id=233

Mentions:

http://www.neilshaulbag.com/guides/qld_bouldering/redbank.html

http://queenslandclimbing.yuku.com/topic/6154/More-videos

pics:

http://www.pbase.com/simon_vos/redbank_plains&page=all

http://www.jottie.com.au/bouldering/Redbank300705/index.html

Videos

https://vimeo.com/30519866

Access Issues:

Be aware that there is a rare plant that calls the boulders we climb home. It is in our interest to accommodate it. More details can be found on the ACAQ web site:

http://www.qldclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/White-Rock-Rare-Plant-Notice-4Sep13.pdf

Approach:

'White Rock Conservation Area' is in the suburb of Redbank Plains, half an hour or so southwest of 'Brisbane'. Driving west along the Ipswich Motorway from 'Brisbane', take the Brisbane Rd exit. Follow the signs to Redbank Plains, driving along Brisbane Rd, Queen St and then Redbank Plains Rd. Keep following Redbank Plains Rd through a couple of intersections before turning left into School Rd. Follow the road to its end, the last section being dirt, and park in the Paperbark Flats picnic area carpark at the northern end of the conservation area. Note that even though the Centenary Highway goes right past the conservation area, there isn't an exit onto School Rd.

Ethic:

Redbank is home to some extremely rare plants that call the top of some of our boulders home. If there are logs defining top outs please respect these and avoid trampling anything that isn't grass. For more information check out http://www.qldclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/White-Rock-Rare-Plant-Notice-4Sep13.pdf .

Be mindful of other users, don't leave rubbish or disturb any vegetation. Stick to the established tracks where possible. Do not use steel wire brushes as these will take away the holds.

1.3.1. The Board Walk 23 routes in Sector

Summary:

Long/Lat: 152.848225, -27.680126

Description:

A selection of boulder problems on the small cliff faces directly below the Bluff Lookout. This is one of the Old School Areas, people have been bouldering here since before the 90's.

Approach:

Follow the Six Mile Creek Track south from the carpark. Take the first turn to the right, follow the boardwalk and you'll soon see the cliffs of the Bluff Lookout.

1.3.2. Slab Land 22 routes in Sector

Summary:

Long/Lat: 152.854118, -27.683433

Approach:

Walk along the dirt track past little white rock until you come to a brown sign saying (something like): "Conservation Park Boundary". On the other side of the track is where you head from here. Once you arrive at the rocks, just turn right until you find Arabesque!

Descent Notes:

On the way out - you may come across a barbed wire fence - to avoid stepping over this and potentially injuring yourself on the rusty barbs and needing a tetanus shot (not that that happened to me), follow the fence to the right until the fence stops.

1.3.3. Little White Rock 27 routes in Sector

Summary:

Long/Lat: 152.851074, -27.681021

Description:

A collection of small cliffs and large boulders found behind Little White Rock. Also known as Antiquity, after the classic V5 put up by Rob Saunders, originally done as a V8 straight mantle.

At the back of Little White Rock there's an old sign pole with no sign. At the pole head off the main track(away from little white rock). Follow track around for approx 80m's.

Behind little white rock, off the main track ahead (away for lwr) and around the right hand side of the small cliffs and boulders.

Approach:

From the carpark head down the main 4wd track. Walk straight along it till you come to the sign and the path that says Little White Rock, follow the path till you get to the lookout. The views pretty uninspiring, so keep walking around to the opposite side of Little White Rock.

15 Minutes

History:

Heaps

1.3.4. The Bat Cave 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

Need more work:

"Another area, The Batcave, is situated a couple of km from the carpark. Follow the path for about 1200m until you hit a road. Walk right down the road for about 500m until an open field appears on your left. Just visable through the trees is an orange chossy wall. On the far right of this wall is a cleft opening at the base. Crawl inside this cave to discover a good selection of very steep test pieces! It is waterproof, well lit and it blocks the noise of those anoying trailbikes." - Neil Monteith

1.3.5. SuperHard to Miss 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

Long/Lat: 152.856541, -27.684221

Approach:

Head up the main track from the carpark until you hit the T-intersection and the big tree. Here head left and keep following this track, ignoring the right turn that takes you to white rock. Follow the track for 500m or so until you see the obvious, 'SuperHard to miss', cave up on your right.

1.3.6. The Underground 17 routes in Sector

Summary:

Long/Lat: 152.857717, -27.682643

Description:

The underground offers some of the most featured, fun roof bouldering around. A stella cave that has problems getting closer to routes in length. Outside the cave offers some steep fun easier lines. This is a great summer bouldering spot as it doesn't get the afternoon sun and stays relatively cool, being mostly underground.

Approach:

From the car park follow the road until you reach the large T intersection with the huge white gum tree, from here turn left and follow the road(ignoring the road to the white rock). Continue up the hill until the road takes a right hand turn and there's a small very blank boulder on your right. Here turn right off the road and follow the trail. The Underground is approximately 100m down the trail. Approach takes about 20 - 30 minutes.

History:

Found by Dan Gordon and Alex Turnbull 2013. Pictures and topo by Peter Crane

1.3.7. SuperHard Wall 28 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 152.858659, -27.687590

Description:

This area is notoriously difficult to find, it was originally known as "The Super Hard To Find Wall". However, with increased traffic and a bit of track work it is getting easier to get to. If you're not good at following a faint trail and winging it, it's probably best the first time you go, to go with someone who knows where the area is.

This wall is home to Queensland's hardest boulder problem and the highest concentration of good, hard bouldering in Brisbane. If you want V8+ this is the wall for you. This area also has a good sprinkling of sub V5 problems. The wall, as all boulders in Redbank are, is sandstone. This isn't grampians super compact perfection, but it's pretty spectacular for Queensland sandstone.

Approach:

From the carpark follow the dirt road until you reach the big T-intersection with the big gum tree. Turn left and follow this dirt road about 200 meters, ignoring the first dirt road on your right which takes you to White Rock. Take the second right - signposted 'White Rock Ridge Track'. Follow the track until the rocky outcrop comes into view, keep an eye out on the left side of the track for a guidepost with a small smiley face drawn on it.

At guidepost turn left off the main track and follow faint trail past small rocky outcrop 50m from track. From here go down and right, following faint trail occasionally lined by logs, until you reach a large burnt black tree on the edge of lantana valley. Continue straight past burnt tree until path turns left into lantana valley. Follow path through the valley and up onto hill. From here you should be able to see the Gift of the Gab wall. The super hard wall is about 100m around to the left.

History:

Discovered by Glen Eaton at work in early 2011.

1.3.8. White Rock 0 routes in Feature

Description:

THIS IS A CULTURALLY SIGNIFICANT AREA, DO NOT CLIMB ON WHITE ROCK.

1.4. Springwood Conservation Park 51 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.142509, -27.624402

Unique Features And Strengths:

Not as sharp as Tooheys. 3-4m high.

Description:

Only two ares have been documented here but there is lots of rock that when we cleaned, provided some great problems at lower grades.

1.4.1. Bong boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 153.141417, -27.622738

1.4.2. The prow area 39 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 153.141777, -27.623255

Description:

The main area featuring the prominent 'Prow'.

1.4.3. Coil Preservation reserve 11 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 153.140048, -27.621767

Description:

Springwood's brother.

Approach:

Turn right and drop down hill after coming into park. Don't offend locals, it backs onto their property.

History:

Recently literally 'unearthed' and cleaned to reveal some interesting problems

1.5. Cedar Creek 85 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 152.778940, -27.322071

Unique Features And Strengths:

Rainforest creek boulders on the outskirts of 'Brisbane'.

Description:

'Cedar Creek' winds its way through the rainforest on the flanks of Mt Glorious, about half an hour north west of 'Brisbane'. Every now and again the small rocks forming the creekbed are big enough to boulder, with a few genuinely good problems. The real attraction though is the creek itself which is one of few natural swimming spots in Brisbane, making this a favourite summer spot among climbers and non-climbers alike. The main waterfall and the large pool below it are particularly popular.

Access Issues:

The upper section of 'Cedar Creek' is within the D'Aguilar National Park. Please take out your rubbish, generally minimise your impact and definitely do not contribute to the graffiti.

If you can take out rubbish that you find.

Approach:

'Cedar Creek' is about 35km or 30-40 minutes drive northwest of 'Brisbane'. From the city, drive along Kelvin Grove Rd, then Enoggera Rd, then Samford Rd. About 20km from the city you'll arrive in Samford Village. Turn right at the roundabout and continue north along Mount Samson Rd. After about 6km, turn left into Cedar Creek Rd. Drive about 9km to where the road ends and park.

View driving map on Google Maps

From the carpark, the route least-likely-to-piss-off-the-local-landowners is following the creek upstream. After 10 minutes or so you'll start to see a few boulders tall & steep enough to be bouldered. These scattered boulders form the 'Below the Waterfall' area. The waterfall itself is about 15 minutes from the carpark. Just above the waterfall is the 'Graffiti Cave'. Just upstream of the cave is the confluence with the 'Side creek' on the left, or continue up the main creek for about 5 minutes to the 'Titanic Area' whose boulders are found on the left bank (facing upstream).

Where To Stay:

There's camping in the D'Aguilar National Park but not at 'Cedar Creek'. The Cedar Creek Falls Retreat offers accommodation nearby, but it is a very comfortable day trip, or even half day trip, from Brisbane.

History:

Unfortunately the history of this cool little place is very undocumented, and the reality is that this is more of a swimming hole for teenagers than boulderers. Info has been gleaned from an old PDF on Qurank and the forums there, and general googling. If you know something not here, please add it.

  • If you think you did an FA, you probably didn't. Please add the climb here and tick it but leave the FA empty unless you're really sure you were the first (eg you pulled 2m of lantana off the rock first)
  • Problem names - As the FA for most problems is lost in time, many names are lost. Where names are know they are entered, but where they are unknown a descriptive name is given like 'Left arete' or very evocative of the problem like 'The cauldron'.

Please, if you know data that is missing please fill it in!

1.5.1. Lost near Andy 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 152.800024, -27.326925

Approach:

A couple of kms before the main area, found when scouting upstream from Andy Williams park. Park in a turnout only 20m from this boulder.

1.5.2. Below the swimming hole 30 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 152.780893, -27.322926

Description:

A scattering of boulders leading up to, and immediately near the first swimming hole which has some rope swings.

Approach:

The boulders start about 10 minutes walk upstream from the carpark and continue until the large pool below the main waterfall.

1.5.3. Below the Waterfall 28 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 152.779751, -27.323210

Description:

A dense cluster of boulders just below the main waterfall.

Approach:

Continue past the first 'Swimming hole', for about 50m.

1.5.4. The cauldron 2 routes in Feature

Summary:

Long/Lat: 152.779121, -27.323147

Description:

On the left, facing upstream, of the waterfall (really just a cascade) is a water worn swirl hole a few meters wide. For much of this year this may be too wet.

1.5.5. Graffiti Cave 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 152.778815, -27.322887

Approach:

Just above the main waterfall at 'Cedar Creek'.

https://vimeo.com/30882790

1.5.6. Side creek 6 routes in Feature

Summary:

Long/Lat: 152.777058, -27.323433

Description:

Roughly 50m past the 'Graffiti cave' on the left is the function with a small steep side creek. Follow it up for ~300m. Because of the steepness many boulders form roofs :)

1.5.7. Titanic Area 9 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 152.777363, -27.320884

Description:

The Titanic boulder is a large prow shaped boulder with the best problems at 'Cedar Creek'. There are more boulders on either side.

Approach:

About 5-10 minutes upstream from the main waterfall, 'Cedar Creek' turns a corner and steepens. The 'Titanic Area' boulders are on the left bank (facing upstream).

1.6. Urban Climb 39 routes in Gym

Summary:
Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.008468, -27.476972

Description:

If you climb at Urban Climb you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

Approach:

Unit 2 / 220 Montague Rd, WEST END Q 4101

1.6.1. Climbing routes 23 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.6.2. Bouldering problems 16 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

1.7. Indooroopilly Bridge 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.973620, -27.506805

Unique Features And Strengths:

Buildering on a stone masonry bridge abutment

Description:

Old bolts, old scary looking hangers, chossy top out to a sloping ledge encrusted in pigeon droppings and train brake pad soot. Most of the ground has been concreted below the climbs making falls just that little bit extra daunting. Make sure when topping out you lay flat under the tracks on the sandstone ledge and wait for a train to rocket past about 1m from your head for the full experience.

Access Issues:

The bridge is presumedly owned by the Brisbane City Council and is listed on the Queensland Heritage Register.

Approach:

These climbs are on the southern abutment of the Albert Bridge, one of four bridges crossing the Brisbane River between the suburbs of Indooroopilly and Chelmer. About 10 minutes southwest of Brisbane's city centre and accessed via Wharf St, Chelmer. For public transport information see TransLink.

Ethic:

Please don't bolt it, leave chalk marks on the wall or attract any attention to yourself. Give way to pedestrians and cyclists, obey all directions from authorities. If asked to leave, politely oblige and leave immediately. Climbing at this crag can lead to being charged with 'Unauthorised High Risk Activity', which involves a court appearance, hefty fines and an unrecorded conviction. Play it smart!

1.8. Terrors Creek 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 152.823818, -27.154044

Description:

1.8.1. Hill Side 0 routes in Boulder

Description:

This is on private land. Don't boulder here.

Approach:

There is none.

1.9. Logan Pine Forest 4 routes in Field

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.133974, -27.813801

Description:

Not much detail yet:

http://queenslandclimbing.yuku.com/topic/5033#.UM62YHNev6Q

http://vimeo.com/27555917

1.10. Freedom Wall 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 153.030375, -27.436782

Unique Features And Strengths:

Convenient if you live nearby and need to lay hand to rock

Description:

A tuff retaining wall behind Freedom furniture off Newmarket/Bowen Bridge roads. There are some poorly bolted (one with an aluminium hanger!) small routes and a few ok looking natural lines. While the climbing is actually pretty good in places, the location is a big drawback and any bolts are not to be trusted.

Access Issues:

Behind a shopping centre, above a driveway. Owners/security staff (if any) may not be psyched to see climbers. Watch out for cars and trucks. Only bother if it's after hours to avoid problems.

Approach:

Drive to Freedom furniture, catch a train to Windsor station, or rock up anyway you can

Ethic:

Chipping seemed to be the norm here back in the day. No longer is that acceptable anywhere. It may be that stabilisation works will one day cover most of the rock here; some areas have already been sprayed with shotcrete recently

History:

Someone desperate for FA's long ago bolted and chipped a bit of rock. Some information was available online years ago, so if anyone still has any info, do share.