Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Queensland 5,273 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.659069, -20.977083

Description:

Queensland. While not offering the world class crags such as Blue Mountains in NSW or Grampians in Victoria, what it lacks in volume it makes up for in variety. We have more varied rock types and styles within a day trip of Brisbane than any other capital city can boast.

1.1. South East 4,007 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.771223, -26.747659

1.1.1. Binna Burra 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 153.188347, -28.196291

1.1.2. Brisbane 878 routes in Region

Summary:
Boulder, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.970895, -27.469074

Description:

'Brisbane' is the third largest city in 'Australia' and capital of the state of 'Queensland'. It's situated in the state's subtropical southeast. Climbing in the city essentially means one thing: 'Kangaroo Point'. An ex-quarry in a riverside park right in the city centre, it's some of the most easily accessible rockclimbing in the world.

Aside from 'KP', Brisbane has some reasonable bouldering at 'Toohey Forest' and 'White Rock', as well as a number of climbing gyms, such as 'Urban Climb'. Heading out of the city, there are plenty of crags within an hour or two's drive, including classics like 'Frog Buttress' and the 'Glasshouse Mountains'.

1.1.3. Brooyar 221 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.528138, -26.143946

Description:© (hotgemini)

Primarily short steep single pitch sandstone climbing. Alot of the imformation here is from Lee Cujes qurank guide.

Useful Info: Camping at glastonbury creek is $4.50/night as of 28/02/06, previously there was a 'pay and display' however this is NO LONGER AVAILABLE and you should book online through the terrible QNPWS online booking system. Gympie has food/alcohol/in-breeding/basic camping supplies but no climbing stores.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

Brooyar is around 20 minutes northwest of gympie, which is a regional city around 2.5 hours north of brisbane. The most straightforward access is to take the main highway north from town, take the well signposted turn-off for the wide bay highway (the next town is kilkivan) then after about 2.85km turn left onto petersen road.

Petersen road turns to dirt after about 1.6km and then begins a meandering path to the crags and campsite. Follow the main road and you should get there fine, the best map of the region shows that the side roads lead to an area labelled 'here be dragons'.

After (very) roughly 2km, you'll come to crest with another well travelled road turn to the right and continuing uphill, follow this to the crags or alternatively going straight ahead takes you towards the wonderful glastonbury creek camping area.

If you go straight ahead to the campground after about another 1km you'll come to a roughly triangular intersection, turn left for the campsite, straight ahead is an alternative route back to gympie if you know the way.

1.1.4. Burleigh Heads National Park (closed) 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 153.458998, -28.091953

Access Issues:

Note that as at January 2006, climbing has been officially "banned" by the area's ranger. They are permitted to issue spot fines of $225 each. You have been warned!

1.1.5. Dinosaur Rocks (closed) 85 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Trad
Description:

Small individual rocky outcrops

Access Issues:

Private land; farmer is not in favour of climbers on his property.

Ethic:

Farmer's hospitality was abused by climbers in the 80s = climbers now shut out.

History:

Developed by: Gordon & Evan Bieske, Stuart & Scott Camps, Andrew Barry, Peter Lehman, Mike Groom, Hugh Penning, Russell Chudliegh, Shane Chemello, Phillip Waters Allen Hansen, Phil Bigg, Paul Grey & others.

1.1.6. Donnelly's Castle 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.882862, -28.559102

Description:
Access Issues:

Apparently a local council reserve, not clear

1.1.7. Emu Mountain 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 153.085695, -26.506525

Approach:

Emu Mountain is a 1.5 hour drive north of Brisbane. Access to the walking tracks is from Havana Rd East, Coolum Beach.

1.1.8. Flinders Peak (closed) 35 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.810463, -27.804189

Description:© (nmonteith)

Flinders Peak is a prominent landmark to the south of Ipswich.

At this point in time it is CLOSED TO CLIMBING due to ongoing access negotiations. This won't be resolved in the near future. Please refrain from climbing at 'Flinders Peak' as it will jeopardise the dialogue that ACAQ is having with the QPWS.

1.1.9. Frog Buttress 393 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 152.620137, -27.984007

Unique Features And Strengths:

Crack climbing par excellence. While the cracks aren't pure splitters, they are very, very excellent!

Description:

Hardcore crack climbing area offering splitter cracks to 40m in height.

Access Issues:

Access to Frog was recently restricted due to a phytophthora outbreak.

The rangers have installed a boot scrub station. Please use these and help prevent the spread.of the disease.

For more information, see here: http://queenslandclimbing.yuku.com/topic/7354/Update-on-Frog-Closure

Approach:

From Brisbane drive west to the town of Boonah. Once you get to Boonah drive South through town on Boonah-Rathdowney Rd. Turn right just as you leave town, at the Dugandan pub, onto Mt French Rd. This takes you to the top of Mt French.

Where To Stay:

Campground at top of cliff.

Ethic:

Trad climbing centre, the routes with bolts are often quite sporting.

1.1.10. Girraween 102 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.964662, -28.851536

Unique Features And Strengths:

Coarse granite slab and face climbing.

Description:

Girraween National Park is a large area containing many fine examples of granite slab and face climbing. With little natural protection and some big runouts many of it's route require an almost free solo approach. Don't be discouraged though, there are plenty of good routes with ample protection squeezed in between the blank walls. A basic rack and a handful of hangers will suffice on most routes (and maybe some Detol to clean that nasty granite gravel rash!). Remember - being allowed to climb at Girraween is a privilege. QNPWS could shut climbing down at any time, so please be extra careful. The best months for climbing are between the months of February to April and September to November as the other months are either extremely hot or intensively cold and windy. Winter is not a good time to climb - it has snowed in the past.

Access Issues:

The climbing is on a coarse granite (Stanthorpe Adamalite). Most of the climbing areas are above well used bushwalking tracks. Take care of walkers and tread lightly. This area has had access problems in the past and underlying 'ban climbing' tensions are still around. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid. Stay off climbs here at ALL times.

Approach:

Girraween National Park is located 260km (~3 hours) SW of Brisbane driving via Stanthorpe. From Brisbane, turn left off the New England Highway 26km S of Stanthorpe (signposted) and follow the road for a further 9km until reaching the park headquarters. There are over ten separate areas within the park where climbing is possible and well established. To find the easiest ways to these areas get a map from the Rangers office. All these areas have well maintained walking tracks to them.

Where To Stay:

Two campsites exist each with amenities; toilets, hot showers, laundry tub and running water. The Park Service suggests that campers book in beforehand especially if it is a long weekend or school holidays. The information centre is open 2-4pm week days and earlier on weekends. http://www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/girraween/camping.html

Ethic:

Do not place new bolts on the Pyramids, Castle Rock, Sphinx Rock, Turtle Rock and Mt Norman. All these areas are viewed by the general public many times a day. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid. Stay off climbs here at ALL times.

1.1.11. Glasshouse Mountains 651 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.914121, -26.918100

Unique Features And Strengths:

Something for everyone, from short hard sport climbs to long easy trad adventures and everything in between.

Description:

Four separate volcanic plugs (mountains) located on the Sunshine Coast north of Brisbane. The online guide is available at www.qurank.com/glasshouse

Access Issues:

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Where To Stay:

There are no camping areas within Glass House Mountains National Park. Nearby Beerburrum State Forest has a camping area at Coochin Creek. There are also private camping areas on the Glass House Mountains Rd. Rocky Creek scout camp near Landsborough has been recommended as a good cheap place to camp. A range of other holiday accommodation is available in the Sunshine Coast hinterland.

Ethic:

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

History:

Historically, one of the most important crags in the country. The birthplace of technical climbing in Australia is right here, pre-dating the area becoming a National Park. Ascents are recorded as early as the late 1800s.

1.1.12. Goombungee 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 151.815313, -27.254656

Description:

Toowoomba locals will be the only ones interested in this small sandstone outcropping.

Access Issues:

Last I heard (2009), the landowner did not want climbers on his land.

1.1.13. Indian Head 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 153.358537, -25.006897

Access Issues:

This is a popular destination on Fraser Island so respect the area and other tourist there and take care when accessing the crag.

Approach:

Indian Head is located at the northern end of 75 Mile Beach and can be accessed from both 75 Mile Beach and Orchid Beach. A 4x4 car will be essential. Getting to the base of the cliff can be achieved by walking (rock hopping) via the north side of the Head, or a rappel. Take extreme caution with tide times and height as well as weather conditions.

1.1.14. Lake Leslie 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

Lots of granite boulders

Description:

1.1.15. Maidenwell 31 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.815399, -26.850010

1.1.16. Millipede Buttress 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Unknown

1.1.17. Moomank Buttress (private land) 18 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.1.18. Mt Barney 40 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.675111, -28.276829

Description:© (gremlin)

The largest massif of rock in south east 'Queensland'.

1.1.19. Mt Coolum 92 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 153.086891, -26.563009

Unique Features And Strengths:

Kneebars and lots of core strength on steep territory

Description:

There's not many other crags in south east Queensland where you can climb in the shade in summer. Because of this, local climbers have been almost forced to climb here, regardless of ability. And given there's not any easy routes at the cliff, Mt Coolum is transforming the local climbing populace into steep-thugging, kneebar-wielding, sloper-crushing mutants! Projects of yesteryear are today's warm-up's and today's projects are, well, futuristic!

Unlike many other crags of this type, the local scene is friendly, welcoming and encouraging. Come and join us for a dangle!

Access Issues:

Access to Mt Coolum is under strict community guidelines. If we obey the rules, then climbing here will continue.

The rules are:

  • No new routes outside the cave (bolted or otherwise)
  • No routes up though the area where the falcons are
  • Minimize impact and presence (i.e. no loud noise!)
  • Continue to clean up our mess and the mess of others
  • Make an effort to clean chalk off holds
  • Do not leave quickdraws on routes below the height of the tallest stick-clip. Leaving no draws is encouraged.
Approach:

One and a half hours (130 km) north of Brisbane. Up the Bruce Highway. Exit L and under after the Ettamogah Pub onto the Sunshine Coast Motorway. Nearing Mooloolaba, take the Noosa exit (not Mooloolaba), pass over the Maroochy river (first sight of the mountain on the bridge). Take the airport exit and keep going straight toward the coast. After the IGA turn L on Quarry Rd, one street before Hyatt Coolum. Follow your nose and park in the main National Park car park.

There are two track options to get to the cliff. The best (which avoids an obvious looking 'climbers trail' appearing on the general tourist track) is the separate trail from the tourists (see red line in the overview topo below). Head to the southern end of carpark and follow the fire trail South. After about 200m a narrow track breaks off R, follow this up to an old road then veer left into the quarry. Keep going uphill, the tracks lead up to the huge cave on the South East side (quite well worn, 10 minutes tops).

Where To Stay:

Surfair Resort offer 2 bedroom unit. You can get the view of the cave while enjoying your coffee on the balcony. www.surfairmarcoola.com.au.

Ethic:

The cave has been largely developed in the last 10 years We value our relationship with the National Park and expect all users to respect this. It is essential not to disturb the wildlife and stay on the track to limit our impact.

1.1.20. Mt Cooroora 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.837970, -26.373573

Description:

So far, adventure sport climbing on rock of variable quality. Single and multi-pitch. Quality hardware – fixed hangers and U-bolts. No carrots!

What to bring • 15 quickdraws plus the usual slings and screwgates. • Wear a helmet climbing and belaying. There is plenty of loose rock. • Bring two ropes. One 60m for leading with another of at least 50m for double-rope abseils. • Bring mozzie repellent and sunscreen.

Summer day trip beta 8:00am: Leave Brisbane driving north 9:40am: Toilet and food stop in Pomona 9:50am: Walk up to cliff 10:10am: Jug a fixed line (if you're lucky) to the upper ledge, or climb one of the routes (in the sun) 10:45am-3:00pm: Climb upper level routes in the shade 3:00pm: Rap to ground and climb lower level slab routes (in shade) 5:00pm: Walk out 7:15pm: Back in Brisbane

Approach:

The drive (nearly two hours from Bris) Drive north from Brisbane ~150km on the Bruce Highway past Cooroy, turn R at Pioneer Rd (pull over here for a good view of the cliff). Follow signs to Pomona. From the main street of Pomona, turn L at the main roundabout, then L again (Hospital St) then R on Mountain St. Follow for a minute or so. Park at the picnic shelter at the Mt Cooroora Park.

The walk in (12 minutes) • Walk across the road, don’t go up the “hiking trail” instead go down the old road though the gully and gate up to old quarry (150m) • Join road veering L, follow. (150m) • Junction. Go straight. Down through gully and up. (200m) • Turn R at fire break road, follow. (250m) • Barbed wire gate over road. Don’t cross. Go up R following fence to spur (fallen timber). (130 steps) • Up spur through she-oaks. (50 steps) • Contour L glimpsing the cliff ahead. Watch carefully to stay on vague track, crossing three gullies. (250m) • Hit the rock apron and walk L to locate 45m high multicoloured slab. (50 steps)

History:

Often eyed but rarely attempted. The seemingly poor quality of the rock and the lack of trustworthy natural protection has thwarted most attempts at climbing here previously. A three pitch free and aid route was established in 1975 by Robert Staszewski & Fred From but is now rusted and overgrown. Adam Donoghue did an “easy and pretty crappy” natural route in mid 90s, details unrecorded. Lee & Sam Cujes attempted a ground-up route on the North Faces in 2003 but bailed before the summit. JJ O’Brien and party rapped into a stance somewhere on the (sunny) North Faces and climbed out via a nice crackline they called “Not The King Of The Mountain”.

1.1.21. Mt Greville 114 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 152.504148, -28.077252

Description:© (gremlin)

Mt Greville is one of the several mountains around Boonah which is protected by the Moogerah Peaks National Park. The rock is tightly fused trachyte in various stages of errosion up to about 300m in height.

Useful Info: The nearest towns by distance are: Aratula, Mt Alford and Boonah.

There is no camping, water, BBQ's or facilities of any kind.

Various rare and endangered flora and fauna can be found around the peak including:

Westringia Sericea

Hibbertia Hexandra

Plectranthus Alloplectus

Acacia brunioides subsp. brunioides

Arundinella Grevillensis

Leionema Gracile

Grevillea Linsmithii

Comesperma Breviflorum

Melaleuca Groveana

Arundinella Montana

Black-Breasted Buttonquail

Powerful Owl

Brush-tailed Rock Wallaby

Important

Don't urinate or crap in the gorges, they are creeks!

Be dicreate and respect the environment when you are here.

There is a general agreement not to climb around Palm Gorge.

It is a very unique micro-environment, leave it for future generations.

The rock quality isn't great and the walls are covered in vegetation.

Don't ruin access for others by climbing in this amazing place...

Approach:© (gremlin)

From Boonah head west on Boonah - Fassifern Road to the Cunningham Hwy. Drive SW towards Cunningham's Gap passing thru Aratula. Turn left at the Spicers Gap Sign (google maps say Lake Mooerah Rd). Follow this road for 8+ km as it wraps around view of Mt Greville on your right. (road turns to dirt at some point, no 4wd necessary. Do not turn down signed Spicers Gap Road, keep going past the reservoir/lake on your left) Then turn right into Mt Greville Rd and find small the NP parking lot ahead. Approach for Wizard and Grey sectors towards Waterfall gorge.

One could probably approach this from the east as well.

No toilets or running water at car park.

1.1.22. Mt Lindesay 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 152.713961, -28.348715

1.1.23. Mt Maroon 327 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.722000, -28.212894

Unique Features And Strengths:

Bold trad. Big walls & many long multi-pitch routes. Heaps of untouched rock. Most areas are visited very seldom = many crags are in a pure state. Climbing is quiet, just you & nature most days. Maggie's Farm is remote (5km walk in) & is, as of 2011, out of mobile coverage = be prepared in case of injury.

Description:

Great views of the Fassifern Valley, Moogerah Valleys, Knapps Peak & Mt. Barney.

Access Issues:

Access from the carpark to the N.P. is via the N.E. track & is across gazetted private land. Please stay on the path. The N.P. boundary is signed.

Approach:

Allow 1-1:15 to get to the start of Ruby Of India; about 30min to get to Viewpoint Buttress and about 1:15-1:30 to get to the Paparazzi Cliffs.

Where To Stay:

Bigriggen is by far & away the best camp ground in the area. Drive another 7kms east towards Rathdowney, turn off, after crossing the Logan River, onto Upper Logan Rd. & follow the signs to "Bigriggen"

Ethic:

Sport bolting is a big no-no here. If you place a bolt here, you'd better have a damn good reason, even then, expect it to be chopped.

History:

Prior to the arrival of Rick White (early 1968) at Maroon, very few climbers had visited the mountain = there are no records of ascents pre-1968. Rick, together with Chris Meadows, Ted Cais, Paul Caffyn & others, established well over 100 routes, all of which are pure trad but the rare button bolt was left behind on the hard East Face routes ("Phaedra" & "The Anti-Christ"). The only enhancement that Rick did, that I know of, was on "The Nympho" (Nympho Buttress), where he drilled a handful of holes into the rock (to insert rods into), so as to aid climb the blank section. Rick established Australia's first grade 22 route with "Valhalla" (East Face) in 1972. The other big contributor of ascents on Maroon is Robert Staszewski, who has climbed there since 1969 and has established well over 100 routes there, all of which are trad. Visiting Victorian climber Chris Peisker put up Queensland's first 24 in 1977: "Wounded Bird". Some development in the 80s by Paul Hoskins, Even Bieske, Chris Frost, Mark Plenderleith & others. Scott Camps arrived on the scene in the early 80s & has established a score of routes there, some using partial bolting to keep them sane, amongst these, two 24s ("Thins" & "C Mon, I Told Ya So"). Herb Brandmeier arrived in the early 90s and established many sport/part sport routes here & controversially opened a new "sport" crag on the mountain - Paparazzi Cliffs in 2004. In the 2000s, Terry Svingen & Mark Gamble established several trad routes. A new hard multipitch route was added to the very exclusive club of routes on the formidable Tiger Face in 2004: "Solar Quartet" (23 with aid=has yet to be freed). Maroon's hardest route was freed in 2007 by Adam Donoghue & Gareth Llewellin: "The Anti-Christ" (28). Mark Gamble

1.1.24. Mt May 0 routes in Crag

Description:

A number of smaller bouldering areas. More information to come.

1.1.25. Mt Ninderry 90 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.993413, -26.552727

Unique Features And Strengths:

Technical vertical faces, pumpy overhangs, stamina routes, boulder problems in the sky, steep cave climbing, this crag has it all. Great summer climbing with brilliant views from the seaside walls

Description:

Sportclimbing at Mt Ninderry began in 2010 with the now-classic Nitroglycerin. Prior to this occasional parties ventured up the odd trad route, though this activity went largely unrecorded. Many of the new climbs are true sportroutes while others are ''adventure sport'' with varying rock quality and trickier routefinding. A handful of long slings are handy and a 60m rope will suffice for most routes.

Access Issues:

Mt Ninderry is an access sensitive area. The landowner atop Ninderry Rise Estate has made it clear he does not want people trespassing on his property. Access now is from Yandina-Coolum Rd - take Barcrest Drive to the end, turn L onto Tinarra Close and follow to the cul-de-sac. Park in front of the war memorial gardens. At the top of the gardens you'll find a couple of old seats beneath mango trees. There's a cairn behind them and a trail leading up through long grass. Easy 15-20mins walk and you arrive near the Deadly When Aroused pillar. Turn L to Nitro/caves area and R to seaside walls.

Ethic:

Wear a helmet, use a stick clip, be safe and tread lightly and quietly. Be careful of the grass trees and orchids. Don't impinge upon potential trad routes with new bolts. Respect tagged projects and the individuality of existing lines. And please dispose of human waste properly!

1.1.26. Mt Tinbeerwah 48 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.974871, -26.389602

Description:

'Mt Tinbeerwah' is a 265m high volcanic plug just inland from Noosa on Queensland's Sunshine Coast. The climbs on offer here are fun, well-protected sport routes of moderate grade, with the odd trad or aid route. The cliff varies in height dramatically along its length so climbs vary from short single pitch to multipitches up to 5 pitches long.

Almost all bolts at Mt Tinbeerwah are carrot bolts (BRs in the descriptions) so bring plenty of bolt plates. A few climbs have fixed hangers (FHs) or u-bolts. There are large numbered rings along the top of the 'Main Wall' as well as double bolt belays (DBBs) for rapping and belaying.

There are two areas to climb at 'Mt Tinbeerwah': the 'Main Wall' and the much smaller 'Lower Wall'. Both walls face west, meaning it's too hot to climb here on summer afternoons. Helmets are advisable, as much for the things people throw off the lookout as for loose rocks.

See also J.J. O'Brien's Mt Tinbeerwah Climbing Guide.

Access Issues:

'Mt Tinbeerwah' is within the Tewantin National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach:

'Tinbeerwah' is about 140 km, or one hour forty-five minutes drive, north of Brisbane.

Follow the Bruce Highway north and take the Cooroy turnoff 120km from Brisbane. Drive through Cooroy, following signs to Noosa Heads to end up on the Cooroy-Noosa Rd. Follow this for about 8km before turning left into Tinbeerwah Rd, well marked with signs for the scenic lookout. Follow this road, which is dirt at times, for about 3km to the carpark at the top of 'Mt Tinbeerwah'.

View driving map

Where To Stay:

There are no camping areas within the Tewantin National Park. There is camping in a number of nearby parks and forests including Great Sandy National Park. A range of private camping and other holiday accommodation is available in Noosa and the rest of the Sunshine Coast.

For more information see these tourist information links.

1.1.27. The Mushroom 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 152.529912, -28.216306

Unique Features And Strengths:

So close to the road you can get beta from Google Street View.

Description:

A small roadside crag with trad lines and a scattering of bolts.

Approach:

'The Mushroom' is about 30 km southwest of Boonah on Head Rd. It's unmissable to the left just after going over a cattle grid.

1.1.28. North Burleigh Bouldering 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.446457, -28.071894

Unique Features And Strengths:

Steep Quartz boulders heavily featured with jugs pockets and slopers.

Description:

This area was first developed in the 90's, and is a great spot right on the waters edge. There is many great steep problems, traverses, High balls, the lot. some landings can be sketchy and uneven so bring crash pads!

Approach:

Park on the southern end of Marine Parade in Miami, or alternatively, on the Esplanade on the southern side of the headland infront of Shark Bar.

Ethic:

Take all your rubbish with you and dont go to the toilet near the boulders!

History:

Info on this area is hard to come by, But the earliest known climbing was done in the 90's. All FA's listed here are to the best of our knowledge and will happily update the guide if things have already been done.

1.1.29. Noosa National Park 56 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and Unknown

Long/Lat: 153.107732, -26.390157

Description:© (hotgemini)

Climbing in Noosa started in late 88 with the discovery of Cook's County and the Devils 'Cauldron'. Trad climbing is done in these two areas as bolts are not needed. The Boiling Pot is a great place for bouldering with easy to difficult problems. No routes have been climbed here. 'Granite Bay' has some nice looking boulders just waiting to be climbed with problems from V0 to V6+.

Remember that you are in a National park, don't litter, clean up any rubbish, don't disturb the wildlife and no bolting. It is essential that climbing in this area remains low key.

1.1.30. Pages Pinnacle 62 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 153.265538, -28.107051

Unique Features And Strengths:

Great climbing and afternoon shade.

Description:

A few different sectors to choose from with varied climbing. From pockets to slabs to steep pumpy walls perched high up off the deck, whatever your into!

Access Issues:

This cliff is inside SEQ Water property, and no access agreements have been made. The firetrail and bushland is useable to the public, but it is best to keep all climbing gear inside our packs to not attract attention to the fact.

Approach:

From the carpark, head through the gate towards the cliff. Follow the trail down until possible to turn right. follow this around, across a creek bed, then keep right at the first junction and keep left at the second junction. Slog it out up some steep hills, and the turn off the fire trail (to the left) is marked with a small cairn near a Large gum tree. follow this up to the ridge then veer right and down the scree slope and follow it down and along until you reach the cliffs.

Ethic:

This is a sport climbing crag. Helmets are mandatory for walls like Sun Bowl and Ice Cream Wall where there hasnt been a lot of traffic, where care should be taken. Please take all litter with you and do your business away from the crag! Stay safe and have a good time.

1.1.31. Point Glorious 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.894076, -26.499602

Description:

Beautiful views and picnic area are on offer, as well as a small number of nice climbs on good rock.

Access Issues:

Located in Mapleton National Park. Climbing and abseiling are allowed here and anchor rings have been provided at various points along the top to facilitate this. However bolting is not allowed - don't add more bolts and keep a low profile if you're using existing bolts.

Approach:

'Point Glorious' is in the Sunshine Coast hinterland. To get there, drive through the township of Yandina. Follow Cooloolabin Rd for about 15 minutes before taking Buckby Rd to the right, then follow the "Point Glorious" signs. About 15 minutes is on dirt road with the last section signed as "high clearance 4WD recommended". Ignore this, the road is fine for 2WDs.

The climbs are under the lookout. Most are accessed via a signposted track heading off the road to the left just as you're arriving at the carpark.

1.1.32. Poondahra (closed) 97 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 153.194655, -28.176801

Access Issues:

Poondahra is in Lamington National Park. It has been closed to climbing since August 2000 due to safety and conservation concerns, after a geotechnical assessment recommended public access to the area be restricted due to "potential high to very high risk of rock fall" and a number of threatened species were found in the area.

For further information see the Lamington National Park Management Plan and this post on qurank.com.

1.1.33. The Pulpit (private land) 86 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.551208, -28.078137

Access Issues:

Please, if you do not know the farmer and have personal permission - don't go to the cliff.

1.1.34. Redcliffs 95 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 152.098918, -27.461873

Description:

A sandstone cliff hidden in the bush at the foothills of Toowoomba west of Brisbane. Development started in 2000 driven primarily by Phil Box and Lee Cujes. A guide is available on www.qurank.com

Access Issues:

It's possible to walk in, or drive a high-clearance 4WD to the top of the cliff. Great for camping.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

Driving from 'Brisbane' towards Toowoomba, just after Helidon turn right off the highway toward Murphy's Creek. As you enter Murphy's Creek, turn right and go under the railway line. Turn right and follow the road until you come to a crossroads.

Turn right onto 'Paradise' Creek Rd and follow it along until the road does a sharp left and heads down the ridge. Don't go down the hill, but park on the right where you can see the cliffs across a valley.

Hop out of the car and follow the ridge down into the creek. Follow the creek along until you can scramble up toward the right hand side of the cliffs.

Alternative 4wd track to top of cliff is now once again open. Head in via Thomas Road, about a hundred metres before before causeway over Murphy's Creek proper turn left down into creek on the indistinct track. Follow creek west for around 1 kilometre or so and then follow track across creek, head up hill and through forest until you hit a T junction. Turn left and then about 600 metres down that track you will experience a Thelma and Louise moment where the track abruptly ends at top of cliff.

Please don't park or camp on turn around. Camp off the side of the road on the right where a few rough campsites exist. Alternatively camp at the Murphy's Creek 'Escape' campsite at the end of Thomas Road. They are great people. Please don't park in front of any of the neighbours around the end of Thomas Road, it annoys them. Give Phil Box a ring if you need any further info or any sort of a guide in. 0418716774

Ethic:

The ethic is natural protection where possible, and glue-in ringbolts or U-bolts where fixed protection is required.

1.1.35. Serpent 47 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.783559, -26.575566

Description:© (hotgemini)

Serpent began as a sport crag for summer climbing, and as a testing ground for those wanting to get accustomed to steeper ground. Many of the routes rely totally on bolt protection with fixed hangers, but that does not mean that we have ignored good natural gear. Therefore a selection of medium to large wires, small to medium cams and one or two larger pieces if so required for routes like 'Minotaur' won't go astray.

A 50m rope will suffice for most of the routes, but a 60m will do all the routes while also making rapping easier. About 10 quickdraws will be heaps and a couple of shoulder length slings to reduce drag. A handful of removable keyhole hangers will also be needed, for some routes still sport a carrot or two. All routes have lower-off rap stations, although some are shared.

When you reach a lower-off, please adhere to the international silent rule and place your own carabiners/quickdraws to top rope or work a route, otherwise the fixed gear is worn out very quickly and suddenly becomes a concern. When simply rappelling or lowering just the once, by all means use the fixed gear.

The trachyte at 'Serpent' is very sound and most routes here have had plenty of traffic. The friction is good and the features quite amazing, but this is rockclimbing and a loose block or two may still be encountered, so take care.

Useful Info: This guidebook is mainly comprised of infomation from Lee Cujes & Darrin Carters Qurank Guide. Some small changes and updates of new routes have been added by Matt Schimke. Topo's coming soon.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

Serpent is located in the Blackall Range, NW of Nambour. Allow two hours travel time from suburban 'Brisbane'. Driving north from 'Brisbane' on the Bruce 'Highway', take the Eumundi-Noosa Road exit. At the roundabout, take the Eumundi-Kenilworth Road and travel north alongside the main highway for a few minutes until it veers left (west). Continue along this for approximately 22km to Gheerulla State Forest (signposted). Turn left onto Sam Kelly Road (dirt).

The camping area is about two kilometres from the entrance.

To park for climbing, stop at about 1.7km at the large red gum with an old survey marker carved into it. Park in the small area just before the tree on your right, facing the direction you drove in (hard to see).

The walk should take around 25 minutes, give or take, depending on fitness level. Follow the track which crosses the stony creekbed and leads to an intersection of walking track and motorbike track. Go straight ahead on a foot-track until you reach another intersection with a 4WD vehicle track. Turn right and walk along this dirt road for a few minutes until you see a large fallen tree with a prominent saw-cut end facing you (left side of road). You'll note a well-worn path leading uphill. Go up this. This track intersects with a newer, cut-in switchbacking path. If you choose to follow the switchback track (longer but easier), ensure you leave it (break left) at the green hiking-trail signpost, and keep going directly up the ridge on the original foot track. Eventually you'll spy the black rock of 'Serpent Wall'.

1.1.36. Shady Buttress (closed) 133 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Approach:

On the western side of Cannon Creek Rd Boonah. From Boonah, Follow the Bunburra rd to the end and turn right into Cannon Creek Rd. Alternatively, coming from the Boonah Rathdowney rd, turn north into Cannon Creek rd.

1.1.37. The Steamers 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 152.429256, -28.204712

1.1.38. Western Wall (closed) 68 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 152.687724, -28.060673

1.1.39. Whitinbah Wafers 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 153.199698, -28.162788

Unique Features And Strengths:

Varied climbing (predominantly crack/corner) on rhyolite columns. Climbs range in height from 16m to 52m and in difficulty from grade 12 to 21.

Description:

The rock is well weathered rhyolite. The occasional loose flake makes a helmet a good idea. We have found slings useful on a lot of routes. Several tracks have been marked to help with access. (Last visited 15 years ago and scant tape on trees to mark the way down.) THE TRACK DOWN IS VERY STEEP AND ROUTE FINDING WOULD BE DIFFICULT IN 2010, BUT WELL WORTH THE TRIP.

Hope you enjoy the climbing. Rhys Davies, Trevor Gynther (This description/entry taken from an original typed copy of the guide book-John Rigsby-Jones Aug 2010)

From the three times I have been to the cliffs, the first being in 1986 the tape was easily found on the way down. The last trip to the clifffs 5 years later the tape had been very difficult to find with some on the ground then. The slope down is very steep = be careful. The base of the cliff is also steep but safe, walking along the bottom is tricky and requires caution. JRJ

Access Issues:

The guide book has a map of how to get to the Wafers and a map of the cliffs. I will have this up asap or email fife87@hotmail.com (John Rigsby-Jones)

1.1.40. Rockit Climbing Gym 61 routes in Gym

Summary:
Unknown and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 153.120675, -26.727623

1.2. Central 70 routes in Region

Summary:
Boulder, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 149.136785, -22.905261

1.2.1. Agnes Waters 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.910729, -24.207631

1.2.2. Bowen 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.232617, -20.031366

1.2.3. Cania Gorge 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 150.987003, -24.691686

Unique Features And Strengths:

Hard sandstone cliff

Ethic:

Trad at the moment

1.2.4. Dumbleton 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 149.079573, -21.142243

Description:

A small crag just outside Mackay with short, mainly sport climbs.

See also the qurank.com guide.

Approach:

Just downstream of the Dumbleton Weir, accessible off Mallia Rd about 10 km west of Mackay.

1.2.5. Rockhampton 18 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.495125, -23.373869

1.2.6. Springsure 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.092064, -24.095985

Description:

area has tons of walls needs to be developed

1.3. North 1,181 routes in Region

Summary:
Boulder, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 143.987280, -15.143974

1.3.1. Cairns 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 145.564522, -16.933238

1.3.2. Turkey Hill 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 145.377325, -17.035316

1.3.3. Emerald Creek 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 145.550703, -17.056815

1.3.4. Innisfail 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 146.091727, -17.566625

1.3.5. The Citadel 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 146.114826, -18.438836

Description:

Guide available on www.qurank.com

1.3.6. Townsville 1,100 routes in Region

Summary:
Boulder, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 146.654571, -19.253177

Description:

Townsville is great for close climbing, with most areas within half an hour drive and many different styles of climbing on offer. From the large as life boulders of "Harvey's Marbles" & "Magnetic Island" to the high quality trad and sport climbs of "Mt Stuart" and the 100m multi pitches of "Castle Hill" you will easily find something to suit you.

1.4. West 3 routes in Region

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 142.260316, -22.243794

1.4.1. Mount Isa (Djarra Road) 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 139.493432, -20.730983

1.5. Coral Beach 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Boulder

1.6. Tank Traps 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

1.7. Test Area 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown