Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Queensland 5,422 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.659069, -20.977083

Description:

Queensland. While not offering the world class crags such as Blue Mountains in NSW or Grampians in Victoria, what it lacks in volume it makes up for in variety. We have more varied rock types and styles within a day trip of Brisbane than any other capital city can boast.

1.1. South East 4,089 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.771223, -26.747659

1.1.1. Alexandra Headland 6 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.113493, -26.672872

1.1.2. Binna Burra 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 153.188347, -28.196291

1.1.3. Brisbane 916 routes in Region

Summary:
Boulder, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.970895, -27.469074

Description:

'Brisbane' is the third largest city in 'Australia' and capital of the state of 'Queensland'. It's situated in the state's subtropical southeast. Climbing in the city essentially means one thing: 'Kangaroo Point'. An ex-quarry in a riverside park right in the city centre, it's some of the most easily accessible rockclimbing in the world.

Aside from 'KP', Brisbane has some reasonable bouldering at 'Toohey Forest' and 'White Rock', as well as a number of climbing gyms, such as 'Urban Climb'. Heading out of the city, there are plenty of crags within an hour or two's drive, including classics like 'Frog Buttress' and the 'Glasshouse Mountains'.

1.1.4. Brooyar 221 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.528138, -26.143946

Description:© (hotgemini)

Primarily short steep single pitch sandstone climbing. A lot of the information here is from Lee Cujes qurank guide.

Useful Info: Camping at Glastonbury creek is $5.60/night as of 18/05/14, previously there was a 'pay and display' however this is NO LONGER AVAILABLE and you should book online through the terrible QNPWS online booking system. Gympie has food/alcohol/basic camping supplies but no climbing stores.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

Brooyar is around 20 minutes northwest of gympie, which is a regional city around 2.5 hours north of Brisbane. The most straightforward access is to take the main highway north from town, take the well signposted turn-off for the wide bay highway (the next town is Kilkivan) then after about 2.85km turn left onto Petersen road.

Petersen road turns to dirt after about 1.6km and then begins a meandering path to the crags and camp site. Follow the main road and you should get there fine, the best map of the region shows that the side roads lead to an area labelled 'here be dragons'.

After (very) roughly 2km, you'll come to crest with another well travelled road turn to the right and continuing uphill, follow this to the crags or alternatively going straight ahead takes you towards the wonderful Glastonbury creek camping area.

If you go straight ahead to the camp ground after about another 1km you'll come to a roughly triangular intersection, turn left for the camp site, straight ahead is an alternative route back to Gympie if you know the way.

1.1.5. Burleigh Heads National Park (closed) 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 153.458998, -28.091953

Access Issues:

Note that as at January 2006, climbing has been officially "banned" by the area's ranger. They are permitted to issue spot fines of $225 each. You have been warned!

1.1.6. Dinosaur Rocks (closed) 78 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Trad
Description:

Small individual rocky outcrops

Access Issues:

Private land; farmer is not in favour of climbers on his property.

Ethic:

Farmer's hospitality was abused by climbers in the 80s = climbers now shut out.

History:

Developed by: Gordon & Evan Bieske, Stuart & Scott Camps, Andrew Barry, Peter Lehman, Mike Groom, Hugh Penning, Russell Chudliegh, Shane Chemello, Phillip Waters Allen Hansen, Phil Bigg, Paul Grey & others.

1.1.7. Donnelly's Castle 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.882862, -28.559102

Description:
Access Issues:

Apparently a local council reserve, not clear

1.1.8. Emu Mountain 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 153.085695, -26.506525

Approach:

Emu Mountain is a 1.5 hour drive north of Brisbane. Access to the walking tracks is from Havana Rd East, Coolum Beach.

1.1.9. Flinders Peak (closed) 35 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.810463, -27.804189

Description:© (nmonteith)

Flinders Peak is a prominent landmark to the south of Ipswich.

At this point in time it is CLOSED TO CLIMBING due to ongoing access negotiations. This won't be resolved in the near future. Please refrain from climbing at 'Flinders Peak' as it will jeopardise the dialogue that ACAQ is having with the QPWS.

1.1.10. Frog Buttress 393 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 152.620137, -27.984007

Unique Features And Strengths:

Crack climbing par excellence. While the cracks aren't pure splitters, they are very, very excellent!

Description:

First aid

Should an accident occur, you will note a sign at the base of the descent gully stating "Left" and "Right" sides. This is in the event that you have to ring the SES or other emergency services, and need to indicate the correct side of the crag for the emergency services to attend. As you are walking down, the side to your right is the "Right" side, and the left is the "Left". Mobile phone reception at the cliff is good, but reception in the campground and car park is dodgy to say the least.

In an emergency call: 000 and ask for the relevant emergency service (112 for mobiles). Alternatively, the Boonah Hospital is open 24 hours, and can be found on Leonard St (just off the main street). The phone number is: (07) 5463 3300.

Rock and Rack

The rhyolite at Frog makes for excellent vertical, parallel-sided crack systems. The rock is usually bombproof, although the occasional small flake does tend to peel off. As such, between 1 - 2 racks of cams would be handy. Crack size varies as much as can be imagined. However, a standard rack of cams from fingers up to fist size will cover most routes.

Most of the routes below grade 26 have been led before cams, the protection found from hexes and nuts is nothing short of excellent. (You also get beard stroking points for climbing on hexes only). Bolts can be found on the unprotected faces and arêtes, and some are the older style carrot bolts. As such 3 - 5 bolt brackets will definitely come in handy. Dodgy pitons from eons ago can also be found, clip at your own risk! 4 to 5 screw gates, 8 - 16 draws and a helmet (lots of loose stuff at the top) will complete your rack. A 60m rope comes in handy, but is not a necessity. Two ropes are required to get off the longer routes.

Weather and comfort

The best time to climb at Frog is between April and September. Perfect winter climbing can be enjoyed with long mild days, cool nights and perfect friction. Climbing during summer is possible for the sadomasochistic. However, it is usually restricted to a 5am start, finishing at around 10-11am. Mozzies and rain are also far more prevalent during summer.

Credit for crag description above and most route descriptions: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

Access Issues:

Access to Frog was recently restricted due to a phytophthora outbreak.

The rangers have installed a boot scrub station. Please use these and help prevent the spread.of the disease.

For more information, see here: http://queenslandclimbing.yuku.com/topic/7354/Update-on-Frog-Closure

Approach:

Mt French can be found 100km South West of Brisbane, situated on the outskirts of the small country town of Boonah.

From Brisbane

The quickest way is to go towards Ipswich on the Ipswich motorway. Just before Ipswich there are two left exits. UPDATE: Don't take either exit. Instead continue straight ahead following signs for Warwick and the Cunningham Hwy. Drive along this for 13km to take the "Boonah" exit. Take this turn and follow the signs.

From the Gold Coast

The quickest way is to go through the townships of Nerang, Canungra, and then Beaudesert.

From the West

The quickest way is to turn East at Warwick onto the Cunningham Highway. Turn off right about 5km past Aratula at a prominent Intersection towards Boonah.

After arriving in Boonah, proceed South through the main street past the famous Flavours Café, until you arrive at the equally famous Dugandan Hotel. Turn right here, and follow the signs to Mount French National Park.

From the carpark

From the car park, walk towards the toilets. Take the path that branches left (marked North Lookout) and follow this for about 100m. Take the obvious dirt track that branches off left, and follow the steep track down to the cliff. The obvious chimney on the left is climb no. 158 Clockwork Orange Corner kk 13.

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

Where To Stay:

The campsites can be found about 150m East of the car park. Go past the toilet block for about 15m, and the path to the campsite will be found to your left. This area has a very limited number of sites available, and it is therefore essential to pre-book if you want to be assured of a campsite. Permits are not valid until full payment has been made, so it is advisable to pay in advance. Bookings can be made by visiting the Qld Parks web site: http://www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/moogerah-peaks/

UPDATE: There are no options for payment at the campground. Fees are $5.60 per person per night, with family discounts available.

Camp fires are strictly prohibited outside of the camping area, and fires may only be lit within the designated fire places that are provided. Firewood collection within the National Park is also strictly prohibited. The use of generators within the campsite is not encouraged. Toilets and running water are located in the toilet blocks adjacent to the campsite.

Alternative (far more expensive) accommodation can be found in Boonah at the hotels, or in the caravan park.

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

Ethic:

Frog is seen by some as the last bastion of "hard man" ethics in Qld. It features predominantly naturally protected crack climbing of the highest quality.

Therefore it is not Kangaroo Point or Nowra, and anybody expecting to come to Frog on a sport climbing mission should pack up their draws and lycra pants and go back there. Retro bolting is severely frowned upon, and bolts are to be placed only on first ascents if there is no protection of any kind available. (Bolting is technically illegal in national parks, be warned). Failure to follow this simple rule could see the bolts chopped and the offender dragged into the bushes by strange bearded men, and then clubbed to death by No. 8 hexes.

Chipping of holds is strictly forbidden, and budding sculptors should piss off. If you can't do the climb, don't lower it to your standard, instead, raise your standard to the level of the climb! Top roping is frowned upon, more so because setting up top anchors can be quite difficult and even dangerous due to the very loose nature of the top of the cliff.

Large portable stereos also seem to have an unfortunate habit of having rocks land on them! Bury toilet waste well away from the walking track, and please carry all rubbish out with you!

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

History:

In the beginning...

According to the Joe Lynch Guide Book, the history of Frog was as follows:

> Then God commanded, "Let there be Frog Buttress, to separate pro-weighters from climbers". When the Lord created Frog, there were no climbers. Then the Lord God said, "It is not good for rock to live alone. I will make a suitable companion to help him". While the rock lay asleep, God took a piece of rhyolite. He formed a climber from this piece and brought it unto the cliff. "Here at last is one of a rare quantity - rock from my cliff". That is why a man leaves his father and mother and is united with the rock, and they become one. The climber and the rock were naked, but they were not embarrassed. So be it.

> — The Gospel according to Dave Moss

Most historians, however, would agree that on 9 November 1968, Rick White and Chris Meadows decided to go and check out the cliff that looked like "no more than an insignificant scar on the North-Western flanks of the unassuming but picturesque Mt French". (Camps)

What they discovered, however, was the premier climbing location in South-East Queensland and some would argue, in all of Queensland. On that day, White and Meadows put up the Corner of Eden. They named the cliff "Paradise Lost", although the nickname of Frog (from Mt. French) stuck over time. This route was but a small indicator of the potential that the cliff had to offer, and this was made further apparent by the face that, by 1970, a further 50+ routes had been added, and 2 mini-guide books had already been published

The 1970's

The 70's saw a massive influx of climbing talent, and a commensurate jump in both the number and the difficulty of the routes that Frog had to offer. In the early 70's, major routes such as the mighty Odin, Conquistador, Venom and Juggernaut had all appeared, and, even by 1971, the guide by Rick White and Ron Collett had over 100 routes listed!

Over the next 5 years, climbers such as Ted Cais, Rick White and Henry Barber all had enormous impact upon the cliff, with the establishment of routes such as Black Light, Child in Time, Insomnia (the first 23 in Australia), Devil's Dihedral, Deliverance etc. Barber in particular almost single handedly raised the standard of climbing a Frog (and indeed in Australia) with his whirlwind tour of the country. Henry climbed 25 first ascents in 3 days all in impeccable style, including soloing Magical Mystery Tour in the boots that he had walked off the plane in, as a way to get back up to the top camp after a hard day climbing! It took years for the locals to catch up.

By the end of 1978, routes such as Wild One, Paranoia, Old Guard and Impulse were all freed, and the prime movers behind these achievements were that mighty climbing duo of Greg Child and Kim Carrigan. Decade was also climbed on the tenth anniversary of the discovery of Frog Buttress.

1979 was clearly the year of the hard man, with a veritable plethora of quality hard routes going up during that time. Tobin Sorenson and Jon Allen popped over to free the classic routes of Tantrum, Barbed Wire Canoe and Green Plastic Comb. They also made a fine addition to the cliff during that trip in the form of The Guns of Navaronne. Rob Staszewski put up a pile of routes. However the standouts were Lonely Teardrops, No Return and the crack test piece of Carrion Comfort. Kim Carrigan was also back at it, repeating all of Sorenson and Allen's routes, as well as establishing the classic thin face crack of Voices in the Sky. At the end of 1979, the fourth guide to Frog, containing of 200, routes was published by Rick White.

The 1980's

1980 was the year of the controversy. It started with Rob Staszewski patiently cleaning the corner of the aid line Crystal Blue Persuasion in preparation for an attempt at a free ascent, only to have Marty Beare steal it out from under his nose, and re-name it Quietly Superior. Rob is still very touchy about that one!

In 1982 Kim Carrigan came back from Europe, bringing with him a change in ethics at Frog. He used the first piton to be placed in a free climb for many years on his first ascent of the run out and sustained Stand in Line. Things snowballed more when Joe Lynch placed the first bolt at Frog on his route Yodel up the Valley. Rick White was so disgusted by this that he immediately arranged for Carrigan to do the route, and eliminate the bolt. The bolt, however, was not chopped!

1982 saw Chris Shephard claim the excellent line of Life at the Top, as well as freeing the super classic Gone and Forgotten, which had, until then, remained an aid line! There was much controversy when Kim Carrigan came back to the cliff, with his mission being to free the super hard Brown Corduroy Trousers. He succeeded on the third day, however, the controversy centred around the fact that a hold had mysteriously appeared up on the right in the middle of the crux section, and the fact that the hold had certainly not been there the previous year when Warwick Baird was sieging it! The New Zealanders completed their domination of 1982 by putting up the super bold face and arête route of Ockerphillia as a statement against bolting.

1983 saw an increase in bolting, which itself was seen by some as the next logical progression in allowing the crag to reach its full potential. Stuart Camps put up the magnificent arête of Oppenheimer's Monster, Paul Hoskins established the brilliant Plate Tectonics and Mark Moorhead bagged the often attempted arêtes of Hard Nose and Nosey Business. It wasn't all bolting though, with Kevin Lindorff producing one of the most bold and difficult routes on the Trousers Wall; Flange Desire. 1983 also saw Joe lynch put out his thoroughly entertaining sixth guide to Frog Buttress, containing over 300 routes.

1984 was a hectic year in the life of Frog. However, the key event was the first death at the cliff: Jeff lamb. His death had a profound and sobering effect on the climbing community. The same year, however, Kim Carrigan managed to free the immensely challenging The Lord's Prayer, which had understandably remained as an aid route. In the same trip, he also managed to add Self Expression and The Anti-From Direct to the cliff, both of these routes being very bold and technical.

There was a distinct lull in the pace of new routes over the following years. However, in April of 1987 Steve Mayers managed to free the stunning, hard face of Time for Tea!

Over the next few years there was still a smattering of development. The main focus was in the repeating of routes. The big achievement of 1988 was the development of the hardest line at the cliff, Whistling Kite, by Englishman Paul Smith. There was a lot of controversy over the tactics and bolting of the ascent, but it is still the hardest route on the cliff today. Mike Law managed to put up the excellent fridge-hugging arête of Debrilla.

The 2nd ascent of Brown Corduroy Trousers by visiting Japanese hot shot Kishio Takamori also occurred that year. Scott Camps published the seventh guide to Frog Buttress, featuring just over 400 routes, (some that are total rubbish traverses have not been included in this guide). There was also considerable controversy around the alleged plagiarising of large portions of the previous guide, although in his defence, there are only so many ways that you can describe a crack, and I think it is not in Scotts' character to have done this!

The 1990's

The next major action at the cliff occurred in 1992, with visiting super climber Sebastian Schwertner putting up the 2nd and 3rd hardest climbs at the cliff; the much considered line of Pokamoko and the Valley Girls, as well as How Are Your Calluses Today. John Pearson also chipped in with his excellent arête, Inhibition, during this period.

Only a very small amount of new routing activity has occurred over the last 10 years. Matt Hutton lead the charge with his excellent additions to the cliff of Dangerously Sane in 1997, The Elven King in 2001, as well as Hallowed Ground and Boris and Natasha Direct in 2003. Matt has since moved back to NSW.

Whilst there is still the occasional new route, even as recently as 2006, it would be fair to say that the scope for additions to the cliff would be limited to the very highest of grade brackets, or to totally contrived mank. This is not to say, however, that the cliff is in any way climbed out, because every time a hold falls off, it's like a brand new climb!

Frog is more popular now than ever before, and, as we wait with baited breath to watch what the genetically enhanced climbing freaks of tomorrow produce, we must also remember to staunchly pay homage to the efforts and ethics of the founding forefathers of our magnificent cliff. It is our solemn duty to make sure that our cliff remains as undamaged, unmolested and as ethically strong as possible. We should aspire to display the same respect and love for the cliff as was displayed 30 years ago, so that the next generation can enjoy the magnificent moments that Frog has to offer equally as much as we have.

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

1.1.11. Girraween 102 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.964662, -28.851536

Unique Features And Strengths:

Coarse granite slab and face climbing.

Description:

Girraween National Park is a large area containing many fine examples of granite slab and face climbing. With little natural protection and some big runouts many of it's route require an almost free solo approach. Don't be discouraged though, there are plenty of good routes with ample protection squeezed in between the blank walls. A basic rack and a handful of hangers will suffice on most routes (and maybe some Detol to clean that nasty granite gravel rash!). Remember - being allowed to climb at Girraween is a privilege. QNPWS could shut climbing down at any time, so please be extra careful. The best months for climbing are between the months of February to April and September to November as the other months are either extremely hot or intensively cold and windy. Winter is not a good time to climb - it has snowed in the past.

Access Issues:

The climbing is on a coarse granite (Stanthorpe Adamalite). Most of the climbing areas are above well used bushwalking tracks. Take care of walkers and tread lightly. This area has had access problems in the past and underlying 'ban climbing' tensions are still around. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid. Stay off climbs here at ALL times.

Approach:

Girraween National Park is located 260km (~3 hours) SW of Brisbane driving via Stanthorpe. From Brisbane, turn left off the New England Highway 26km S of Stanthorpe (signposted) and follow the road for a further 9km until reaching the park headquarters. There are over ten separate areas within the park where climbing is possible and well established. To find the easiest ways to these areas get a map from the Rangers office. All these areas have well maintained walking tracks to them.

Where To Stay:

Two campsites exist each with amenities; toilets, hot showers, laundry tub and running water. The Park Service suggests that campers book in beforehand especially if it is a long weekend or school holidays. The information centre is open 2-4pm week days and earlier on weekends. http://www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/girraween/camping.html

Ethic:

Do not place new bolts on the Pyramids, Castle Rock, Sphinx Rock, Turtle Rock and Mt Norman. All these areas are viewed by the general public many times a day. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid. Stay off climbs here at ALL times.

1.1.12. Glasshouse Mountains 658 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.914121, -26.918100

Unique Features And Strengths:

Something for everyone, from short hard sport climbs to long easy trad adventures and everything in between.

Description:

Four separate volcanic plugs (mountains) located on the Sunshine Coast north of Brisbane. The online guide is available at www.qurank.com/glasshouse

Access Issues:

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Where To Stay:

There are no camping areas within Glass House Mountains National Park. Nearby Beerburrum State Forest has a camping area at Coochin Creek. There are also private camping areas on the Glass House Mountains Rd. Rocky Creek scout camp near Landsborough has been recommended as a good cheap place to camp. A range of other holiday accommodation is available in the Sunshine Coast hinterland.

Ethic:

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

History:

Historically, one of the most important crags in the country. The birthplace of technical climbing in Australia is right here, pre-dating the area becoming a National Park. Ascents are recorded as early as the late 1800s.

1.1.13. Goombungee 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 151.815313, -27.254656

Description:

Toowoomba locals will be the only ones interested in this small sandstone outcropping.

Access Issues:

Last I heard (2009), the landowner did not want climbers on his land.

1.1.14. Indian Head 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 153.358537, -25.006897

Access Issues:

This is a popular destination on Fraser Island so respect the area and other tourist there and take care when accessing the crag.

Approach:

Indian Head is located at the northern end of 75 Mile Beach and can be accessed from both 75 Mile Beach and Orchid Beach. A 4x4 car will be essential. Getting to the base of the cliff can be achieved by walking (rock hopping) via the north side of the Head, or a rappel. Take extreme caution with tide times and height as well as weather conditions.

1.1.15. Lake Leslie 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

Lots of granite boulders

Description:

1.1.16. Maidenwell 31 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.815399, -26.850010

Unique Features And Strengths:

Trad and bouldering short routes on granite surrounding a waterhole. A beginner to intermediate crag and popular swimming location.

Approach:

The crag is at Coomba waterhole, 2Km from Maidenwell Town. The climbing routes 2m walk from carpark.

Where To Stay:

Maidenwell township rest area. Free camping, public toilet and BBQ.

Ethic:

This is a traditional climbing crag.

1.1.17. Millipede Buttress 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Unknown

1.1.18. Moomank Buttress (private land) 18 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.1.19. Mt Barney 40 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.675111, -28.276829

Description:© (gremlin)

The largest massif of rock in south east 'Queensland'.

1.1.20. Mt Coolum 93 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 153.086891, -26.563009

Unique Features And Strengths:

Kneebars and lots of core strength on steep territory

Description:

There's not many other crags in south east Queensland where you can climb in the shade in summer. Because of this, local climbers have been almost forced to climb here, regardless of ability. And given there's not any easy routes at the cliff, Mt Coolum is transforming the local climbing populace into steep-thugging, kneebar-wielding, sloper-crushing mutants! Projects of yesteryear are today's warm-up's and today's projects are, well, futuristic!

Unlike many other crags of this type, the local scene is friendly, welcoming and encouraging. Come and join us for a dangle!

Access Issues:

Access to Mt Coolum is under strict community guidelines. If we obey the rules, then climbing here will continue.

The rules are:

  • No new routes outside the cave (bolted or otherwise)
  • No routes up though the area where the falcons are
  • Minimize impact and presence (i.e. no loud noise!)
  • Continue to clean up our mess and the mess of others
  • Make an effort to clean chalk off holds
  • Do not leave quickdraws on routes below the height of the tallest stick-clip. Leaving no draws is encouraged.
Approach:

One and a half hours (130 km) north of Brisbane. Up the Bruce Highway. Exit L and under after the Ettamogah Pub onto the Sunshine Coast Motorway. Nearing Mooloolaba, take the Noosa exit (not Mooloolaba), pass over the Maroochy river (first sight of the mountain on the bridge). Take the airport exit and keep going straight toward the coast. After the IGA turn L on Quarry Rd, one street before Hyatt Coolum. Follow your nose and park in the main National Park car park.

There are two track options to get to the cliff. The best (which avoids an obvious looking 'climbers trail' appearing on the general tourist track) is the separate trail from the tourists (see red line in the overview topo below). Head to the southern end of carpark and follow the fire trail South. After about 200m a narrow track breaks off R, follow this up to an old road then veer left into the quarry. Keep going uphill, the tracks lead up to the huge cave on the South East side (quite well worn, 10 minutes tops).

Where To Stay:

Surfair Resort offer 2 bedroom unit. You can get the view of the cave while enjoying your coffee on the balcony. www.surfairmarcoola.com.au.

Ethic:

The cave has been largely developed in the last 10 years We value our relationship with the National Park and expect all users to respect this. It is essential not to disturb the wildlife and stay on the track to limit our impact.

1.1.21. Mt Cooroora 32 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 152.837970, -26.373573

Description:

So far, adventure sport climbing on rock of variable quality. Single and multi-pitch. Quality hardware – fixed hangers and U-bolts. No carrots!

What to bring • 15 quickdraws plus the usual slings and screwgates. • Wear a helmet climbing and belaying. There is plenty of loose rock. • Bring two ropes. One 60m for leading with another of at least 50m for double-rope abseils. • Bring mozzie repellent and sunscreen.

Summer day trip beta 8:00am: Leave Brisbane driving north 9:40am: Toilet and food stop in Pomona 9:50am: Walk up to cliff 10:10am: Jug a fixed line (if you're lucky) to the upper ledge, or climb one of the routes (in the sun) 10:45am-3:00pm: Climb upper level routes in the shade 3:00pm: Rap to ground and climb lower level slab routes (in shade) 5:00pm: Walk out 7:15pm: Back in Brisbane

Approach:

The drive (nearly two hours from Bris) Drive north from Brisbane ~150km on the Bruce Highway past Cooroy, turn R at Pioneer Rd (pull over here for a good view of the cliff). Follow signs to Pomona. From the main street of Pomona, turn L at the main roundabout, then L again (Hospital St) then R on Mountain St. Follow for a minute or so. Park at the picnic shelter at the Mt Cooroora Park.

The walk in (15 minutes) • Walk across the road, don’t go up the “hiking trail” instead go down the old road (to the left of the "hiking trail") though the gate and up to track junction then go left.

Follow along until next track junction. Go straight ahead leaving main track and onto one lane foot track.

Go Down through gully and up.

Turn R at fire break road, follow until you reach the barbed wire fence across road.

Follow fence line UP the hill and stay on the now well worn track until the cliff face is reached. Be carefull as track is at times steep. Work is ongoing to improve the track.

History:

Often eyed but rarely attempted. The seemingly poor quality of the rock and the lack of trustworthy natural protection has thwarted most attempts at climbing here previously. A three pitch free and aid route was established in 1975 by Robert Staszewski & Fred From but is now rusted and overgrown. Adam Donoghue did an “easy and pretty crappy” natural route in mid 90s, details unrecorded. Lee & Sam Cujes attempted a ground-up route on the North Faces in 2003 but bailed before the summit. JJ O’Brien and party rapped into a stance somewhere on the (sunny) North Faces and climbed out via a nice crackline they called “Not The King Of The Mountain”.

1.1.22. Mt Greville 114 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 152.504148, -28.077252

Description:© (gremlin)

Mt Greville is one of the several mountains around Boonah which is protected by the Moogerah Peaks National Park. The rock is tightly fused trachyte in various stages of errosion up to about 300m in height.

Useful Info: The nearest towns by distance are: Aratula, Mt Alford and Boonah.

There is no camping, water, BBQ's or facilities of any kind.

Various rare and endangered flora and fauna can be found around the peak including:

Westringia Sericea

Hibbertia Hexandra

Plectranthus Alloplectus

Acacia brunioides subsp. brunioides

Arundinella Grevillensis

Leionema Gracile

Grevillea Linsmithii

Comesperma Breviflorum

Melaleuca Groveana

Arundinella Montana

Black-Breasted Buttonquail

Powerful Owl

Brush-tailed Rock Wallaby

Important

Don't urinate or crap in the gorges, they are creeks!

Be dicreate and respect the environment when you are here.

There is a general agreement not to climb around Palm Gorge.

It is a very unique micro-environment, leave it for future generations.

The rock quality isn't great and the walls are covered in vegetation.

Don't ruin access for others by climbing in this amazing place...

Approach:© (gremlin)

From Boonah head west on Boonah - Fassifern Road to the Cunningham Hwy. Drive SW towards Cunningham's Gap passing thru Aratula. Turn left at the Spicers Gap Sign (google maps say Lake Mooerah Rd). Follow this road for 8+ km as it wraps around view of Mt Greville on your right. (road turns to dirt at some point, no 4wd necessary. Do not turn down signed Spicers Gap Road, keep going past the reservoir/lake on your left) Then turn right into Mt Greville Rd and find small the NP parking lot ahead. Approach for Wizard and Grey sectors towards Waterfall gorge.

One could probably approach this from the east as well.

No toilets or running water at car park.

1.1.23. Mt Lindesay 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 152.713961, -28.348715

1.1.24. Mt Maroon 327 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.722000, -28.212894

Unique Features And Strengths:

Bold trad. Big walls & many long multi-pitch routes. Heaps of untouched rock. Most areas are visited very seldom = many crags are in a pure state. Climbing is quiet, just you & nature most days. Maggie's Farm is remote (5km walk in) & is, as of 2011, out of mobile coverage = be prepared in case of injury.

Description:

Great views of the Fassifern Valley, Moogerah Valleys, Knapps Peak & Mt. Barney.

Access Issues:

Access from the carpark to the N.P. is via the N.E. track & is across gazetted private land. Please stay on the path. The N.P. boundary is signed.

Approach:

Allow 1-1:15 to get to the start of Ruby Of India; about 30min to get to Viewpoint Buttress and about 1:15-1:30 to get to the Paparazzi Cliffs.

Where To Stay:

Bigriggen is by far & away the best camp ground in the area. Drive another 7kms east towards Rathdowney, turn off, after crossing the Logan River, onto Upper Logan Rd. & follow the signs to "Bigriggen"

Ethic:

Sport bolting is a big no-no here. If you place a bolt here, you'd better have a damn good reason, even then, expect it to be chopped.

History:

Prior to the arrival of Rick White (early 1968) at Maroon, very few climbers had visited the mountain = there are no records of ascents pre-1968. Rick, together with Chris Meadows, Ted Cais, Paul Caffyn & others, established well over 100 routes, all of which are pure trad but the rare button bolt was left behind on the hard East Face routes ("Phaedra" & "The Anti-Christ"). The only enhancement that Rick did, that I know of, was on "The Nympho" (Nympho Buttress), where he drilled a handful of holes into the rock (to insert rods into), so as to aid climb the blank section. Rick established Australia's first grade 22 route with "Valhalla" (East Face) in 1972. The other big contributor of ascents on Maroon is Robert Staszewski, who has climbed there since 1969 and has established well over 100 routes there, all of which are trad. Visiting Victorian climber Chris Peisker put up Queensland's first 24 in 1977: "Wounded Bird". Some development in the 80s by Paul Hoskins, Even Bieske, Chris Frost, Mark Plenderleith & others. Scott Camps arrived on the scene in the early 80s & has established a score of routes there, some using partial bolting to keep them sane, amongst these, two 24s ("Thins" & "C Mon, I Told Ya So"). Herb Brandmeier arrived in the early 90s and established many sport/part sport routes here & controversially opened a new "sport" crag on the mountain - Paparazzi Cliffs in 2004. In the 2000s, Terry Svingen & Mark Gamble established several trad routes. A new hard multipitch route was added to the very exclusive club of routes on the formidable Tiger Face in 2004: "Solar Quartet" (23 with aid=has yet to be freed). Maroon's hardest route was freed in 2007 by Adam Donoghue & Gareth Llewellin: "The Anti-Christ" (28). Mark Gamble

1.1.25. Mt May 0 routes in Crag

Description:

A number of smaller bouldering areas. More information to come.

1.1.26. Mt Ninderry 92 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.993413, -26.552727

Unique Features And Strengths:

Technical vertical faces, pumpy overhangs, stamina routes, boulder problems in the sky, steep cave climbing, this crag has it all. Great summer climbing with brilliant views from the seaside walls

Description:

Sportclimbing at Mt Ninderry began in 2010 with the now-classic Nitroglycerin. Prior to this occasional parties ventured up the odd trad route, though this activity went largely unrecorded. Many of the new climbs are true sportroutes while others are ''adventure sport'' with varying rock quality and trickier routefinding. A handful of long slings are handy and a 60m rope will suffice for most routes.

Access Issues:

Mt Ninderry is an access sensitive area. The landowner atop Ninderry Rise Estate has made it clear he does not want people trespassing on his property. Access now is from Yandina-Coolum Rd - take Barcrest Drive to the end, turn L onto Tinarra Close and follow to the cul-de-sac. Park in front of the war memorial gardens. At the top of the gardens you'll find a couple of old seats beneath mango trees. There's a cairn behind them and a trail leading up through long grass. Easy 15-20mins walk and you arrive near the Deadly When Aroused pillar. Turn L to Nitro/caves area and R to seaside walls.

Ethic:

Wear a helmet, use a stick clip, be safe and tread lightly and quietly. Be careful of the grass trees and orchids. Don't impinge upon potential trad routes with new bolts. Respect tagged projects and the individuality of existing lines. And please dispose of human waste properly!

1.1.27. Mt Tinbeerwah 48 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.974871, -26.389602

Description:

'Mt Tinbeerwah' is a 265m high volcanic plug just inland from Noosa on Queensland's Sunshine Coast. The climbs on offer here are fun, well-protected sport routes of moderate grade, with the odd trad or aid route. The cliff varies in height dramatically along its length so climbs vary from short single pitch to multipitches up to 5 pitches long.

Almost all bolts at Mt Tinbeerwah are carrot bolts (BRs in the descriptions) so bring plenty of bolt plates. A few climbs have fixed hangers (FHs) or u-bolts. There are large numbered rings along the top of the 'Main Wall' as well as double bolt belays (DBBs) for rapping and belaying.

There are two areas to climb at 'Mt Tinbeerwah': the 'Main Wall' and the much smaller 'Lower Wall'. Both walls face west, meaning it's too hot to climb here on summer afternoons. Helmets are advisable, as much for the things people throw off the lookout as for loose rocks.

See also J.J. O'Brien's Mt Tinbeerwah Climbing Guide.

Access Issues:

'Mt Tinbeerwah' is within the Tewantin National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach:

'Tinbeerwah' is about 140 km, or one hour forty-five minutes drive, north of Brisbane.

Follow the Bruce Highway north and take the Cooroy turnoff 120km from Brisbane. Drive through Cooroy, following signs to Noosa Heads to end up on the Cooroy-Noosa Rd. Follow this for about 8km before turning left into Tinbeerwah Rd, well marked with signs for the scenic lookout. Follow this road, which is dirt at times, for about 3km to the carpark at the top of 'Mt Tinbeerwah'.

View driving map

Where To Stay:

There are no camping areas within the Tewantin National Park. There is camping in a number of nearby parks and forests including Great Sandy National Park. A range of private camping and other holiday accommodation is available in Noosa and the rest of the Sunshine Coast.

For more information see these tourist information links.

1.1.28. The Mushroom 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 152.529912, -28.216306

Unique Features And Strengths:

So close to the road you can get beta from Google Street View.

Description:

A small roadside crag with trad lines and a scattering of bolts.

Approach:

'The Mushroom' is about 30 km southwest of Boonah on Head Rd. It's unmissable to the left just after going over a cattle grid.

1.1.29. North Burleigh Bouldering 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.446457, -28.071894

Unique Features And Strengths:

Steep Quartz boulders heavily featured with jugs pockets and slopers.

Description:

This area was first developed in the 90's, and is a great spot right on the waters edge. There is many great steep problems, traverses, High balls, the lot. some landings can be sketchy and uneven so bring crash pads!

Approach:

Park on the southern end of Marine Parade in Miami, or alternatively, on the Esplanade on the southern side of the headland infront of Shark Bar.

Ethic:

Take all your rubbish with you and dont go to the toilet near the boulders!

History:

Info on this area is hard to come by, But the earliest known climbing was done in the 90's. All FA's listed here are to the best of our knowledge and will happily update the guide if things have already been done.

1.1.30. Noosa National Park 56 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and Unknown

Long/Lat: 153.107732, -26.390157

Description:© (hotgemini)

Climbing in Noosa started in late 88 with the discovery of Cook's County and the Devils 'Cauldron'. Trad climbing is done in these two areas as bolts are not needed. The Boiling Pot is a great place for bouldering with easy to difficult problems. No routes have been climbed here. 'Granite Bay' has some nice looking boulders just waiting to be climbed with problems from V0 to V6+.

Remember that you are in a National park, don't litter, clean up any rubbish, don't disturb the wildlife and no bolting. It is essential that climbing in this area remains low key.

1.1.31. Pages Pinnacle 63 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 153.265538, -28.107051

Unique Features And Strengths:

Great climbing and afternoon shade.

Description:

A few different sectors to choose from with varied climbing. From pockets to slabs to steep pumpy walls perched high up off the deck, whatever your into!

Access Issues:

This cliff is inside SEQ Water property, and no access agreements have been made. The firetrail and bushland is useable to the public, but it is best to keep all climbing gear inside our packs to not attract attention to the fact.

Approach:

From the carpark, head through the gate towards the cliff. Follow the trail down until possible to turn right. follow this around, across a creek bed, then keep right at the first junction and keep left at the second junction. Slog it out up some steep hills, and the turn off the fire trail (to the left) is marked with a small cairn near a Large gum tree. follow this up to the ridge then veer right and down the scree slope and follow it down and along until you reach the cliffs.

Ethic:

This is a sport climbing crag. Helmets are mandatory for walls like Sun Bowl and Ice Cream Wall where there hasnt been a lot of traffic, where care should be taken. Please take all litter with you and do your business away from the crag! Stay safe and have a good time.

1.1.32. Point Glorious 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.894076, -26.499602

Description:

Beautiful views and picnic area are on offer, as well as a small number of nice climbs on good rock.

Access Issues:

Located in Mapleton National Park. Climbing and abseiling are allowed here and anchor rings have been provided at various points along the top to facilitate this. However bolting is not allowed - don't add more bolts and keep a low profile if you're using existing bolts.

Approach:

'Point Glorious' is in the Sunshine Coast hinterland. To get there, drive through the township of Yandina. Follow Cooloolabin Rd for about 15 minutes before taking Buckby Rd to the right, then follow the "Point Glorious" signs. About 15 minutes is on dirt road with the last section signed as "high clearance 4WD recommended". Ignore this, the road is fine for 2WDs.

The climbs are under the lookout. Most are accessed via a signposted track heading off the road to the left just as you're arriving at the carpark.

1.1.33. Poondahra (closed) 97 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 153.194655, -28.176801

Access Issues:

Poondahra is in Lamington National Park. It has been closed to climbing since August 2000 due to safety and conservation concerns, after a geotechnical assessment recommended public access to the area be restricted due to "potential high to very high risk of rock fall" and a number of threatened species were found in the area.

For further information see the Lamington National Park Management Plan and this post on qurank.com.

1.1.34. The Pulpit (private land) 86 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.551208, -28.078137

Access Issues:

Please, if you do not know the farmer and have personal permission - don't go to the cliff.

1.1.35. Redcliffs 95 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 152.098918, -27.461873

Description:

A sandstone cliff hidden in the bush at the foothills of Toowoomba west of Brisbane. Development started in 2000 driven primarily by Phil Box and Lee Cujes. A guide is available on www.qurank.com

Access Issues:

It's possible to walk in, or drive a high-clearance 4WD to the top of the cliff. Great for camping.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

Driving from 'Brisbane' towards Toowoomba, just after Helidon turn right off the highway toward Murphy's Creek. As you enter Murphy's Creek, turn right and go under the railway line. Turn right and follow the road until you come to a crossroads.

Turn right onto 'Paradise' Creek Rd and follow it along until the road does a sharp left and heads down the ridge. Don't go down the hill, but park on the right where you can see the cliffs across a valley.

Hop out of the car and follow the ridge down into the creek. Follow the creek along until you can scramble up toward the right hand side of the cliffs.

Alternative 4wd track to top of cliff is now once again open. Head in via Thomas Road, about a hundred metres before before causeway over Murphy's Creek proper turn left down into creek on the indistinct track. Follow creek west for around 1 kilometre or so and then follow track across creek, head up hill and through forest until you hit a T junction. Turn left and then about 600 metres down that track you will experience a Thelma and Louise moment where the track abruptly ends at top of cliff.

Please don't park or camp on turn around. Camp off the side of the road on the right where a few rough campsites exist. Alternatively camp at the Murphy's Creek 'Escape' campsite at the end of Thomas Road. They are great people. Please don't park in front of any of the neighbours around the end of Thomas Road, it annoys them. Give Phil Box a ring if you need any further info or any sort of a guide in. 0418716774

Ethic:

The ethic is natural protection where possible, and glue-in ringbolts or U-bolts where fixed protection is required.

1.1.36. Serpent 47 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 152.783559, -26.575566

Description:© (hotgemini)

Serpent began as a sport crag for summer climbing, and as a testing ground for those wanting to get accustomed to steeper ground. Many of the routes rely totally on bolt protection with fixed hangers, but that does not mean that we have ignored good natural gear. Therefore a selection of medium to large wires, small to medium cams and one or two larger pieces if so required for routes like 'Minotaur' won't go astray.

A 50m rope will suffice for most of the routes, but a 60m will do all the routes while also making rapping easier. About 10 quickdraws will be heaps and a couple of shoulder length slings to reduce drag. A handful of removable keyhole hangers will also be needed, for some routes still sport a carrot or two. All routes have lower-off rap stations, although some are shared.

When you reach a lower-off, please adhere to the international silent rule and place your own carabiners/quickdraws to top rope or work a route, otherwise the fixed gear is worn out very quickly and suddenly becomes a concern. When simply rappelling or lowering just the once, by all means use the fixed gear.

The trachyte at 'Serpent' is very sound and most routes here have had plenty of traffic. The friction is good and the features quite amazing, but this is rockclimbing and a loose block or two may still be encountered, so take care.

Useful Info: This guidebook is mainly comprised of infomation from Lee Cujes & Darrin Carters Qurank Guide. Some small changes and updates of new routes have been added by Matt Schimke. Topo's coming soon.

Approach:© (hotgemini)

Serpent is located in the Blackall Range, NW of Nambour. Allow two hours travel time from suburban 'Brisbane'. Driving north from 'Brisbane' on the Bruce 'Highway', take the Eumundi-Noosa Road exit. At the roundabout, take the Eumundi-Kenilworth Road and travel north alongside the main highway for a few minutes until it veers left (west). Continue along this for approximately 22km to Gheerulla State Forest (signposted). Turn left onto Sam Kelly Road (dirt).

The camping area is about two kilometres from the entrance.

To park for climbing, stop at about 1.7km at the large red gum just outside the park gate/entrance. Park in the small clearing on your right.

The walk should take around 25 minutes, give or take, depending on fitness level. Just inside the park entrance turn right and follow the track which crosses the stony creek-bed and leads to an intersection of walking track ,motorbike track and a 4WD road. Go straight ahead on a small foot-track(Do NOT follow the walker sign pointing to the left!).

Continue along the small track until you reach another intersection with a 4WD vehicle track. Turn right and walk along this dirt road for a few minutes until you see a large fallen tree with a prominent saw-cut end facing you (a few metres off the road on left side). You'll note a well-worn path leading uphill. Go up this. This track intersects with a newer, cut-in switchbacking path. If you choose to follow the switchback track (longer but easier), ensure you leave it (break left) at the green hiking-trail signpost, and keep going directly up the ridge on the original foot track. Eventually you'll spy the black rock of 'Serpent Wall'.

1.1.37. Shady Buttress (closed) 133 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Approach:

On the western side of Cannon Creek Rd Boonah. From Boonah, Follow the Bunburra rd to the end and turn right into Cannon Creek Rd. Alternatively, coming from the Boonah Rathdowney rd, turn north into Cannon Creek rd.

1.1.38. The Steamers 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 152.429256, -28.204712

1.1.39. Western Wall (closed) 68 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 152.687724, -28.060673

1.1.40. Whitinbah Wafers 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 153.199698, -28.162788

Unique Features And Strengths:

Varied climbing (predominantly crack/corner) on rhyolite columns. Climbs range in height from 16m to 52m and in difficulty from grade 12 to 21.

Description:

The rock is well weathered rhyolite. The occasional loose flake makes a helmet a good idea. We have found slings useful on a lot of routes. Several tracks have been marked to help with access. (Last visited 15 years ago and scant tape on trees to mark the way down.) THE TRACK DOWN IS VERY STEEP AND ROUTE FINDING WOULD BE DIFFICULT IN 2010, BUT WELL WORTH THE TRIP.

Hope you enjoy the climbing. Rhys Davies, Trevor Gynther (This description/entry taken from an original typed copy of the guide book-John Rigsby-Jones Aug 2010)

From the three times I have been to the cliffs, the first being in 1986 the tape was easily found on the way down. The last trip to the clifffs 5 years later the tape had been very difficult to find with some on the ground then. The slope down is very steep = be careful. The base of the cliff is also steep but safe, walking along the bottom is tricky and requires caution. JRJ

Access Issues:

The guide book has a map of how to get to the Wafers and a map of the cliffs. I will have this up asap or email fife87@hotmail.com (John Rigsby-Jones)

1.1.41. Rockit Climbing Gym 67 routes in Gym

Summary:
All Top Rope

Long/Lat: 153.120675, -26.727623

1.1.42. Moreton Island 0 routes in Area

1.2. Central 113 routes in Region

Summary:
Boulder, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 149.136785, -22.905261

1.2.1. Agnes Waters 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.910729, -24.207631

1.2.2. Bowen 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.252052, -20.000015

1.2.3. Cania Gorge 37 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.987003, -24.691686

Unique Features And Strengths:

Hard sandstone cliff

Access Issues:

Cania George has only the one sealed road running from the south to the Cania Dam in the north. As you enter the park there are cliffs visible near and opposite the picnic area. There are walks along graded tracks into the George on the east and along the cliffs to the west. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. Climbing is on cliff faces that begin about 4 kms to the north. Drive in further and you can not help but see them.

Where To Stay:

There are 2 caravan parks in the area or you can stay in Monto and drive in daily. 25 km one way.

Ethic:

Trad at the moment

History:

The world was made we evolved we climbed.

1.2.4. Rockhampton 18 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.495125, -23.373869

1.2.5. Springsure 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.092064, -24.095985

Description:

area has tons of walls needs to be developed

1.2.6. Peak Range National Park 0 routes in Area

Description:

The Peak Range is a chain of prominent and picturesque mountains to the north-east of Capella and east of Clermont which is visible from a considerable distance across the plains of the Central Highlands. It consists of groups of sharp peaks of basalt flows and rhyolite/trachyte separated by flat plain country similar to the surrounding district, forming a succession of isolated, gigantic, conical and dome topped mountains with some impressive vertical and low angle walls similar to the Glasshouse Mountains in SEQ.

Approach:

Queensland Parks and Wildlife Services in Clermont can provide advice on peak access and walking access trails as walking trails are unmarked. Note that some of the peaks are under grazing lease. Stay well back from goannas, crocodiles, snakes, dingoes, cassowaries, feral pigs, cattle, horses and buffaloes. People have been seriously injured or killed by wild animals in this area.

1.2.7. Mackay 16 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 149.160869, -21.126173

1.3. North 1,205 routes in Region

Summary:
Boulder, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 143.987280, -15.143974

1.3.1. Cairns 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 145.564522, -16.933238

1.3.2. Turkey Hill 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 145.377325, -17.035316

1.3.3. Emerald Creek 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 145.550703, -17.056815

1.3.4. Innisfail 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 146.091727, -17.566625

1.3.5. The Citadel 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 146.136729, -18.468969

Description:

Guide available on www.qurank.com

1.3.6. Townsville 1,124 routes in Region

Summary:
Boulder, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 146.520161, -19.253177

Description:

Townsville is great for close climbing, with most areas within half an hour drive and many different styles of climbing on offer. From the large as life boulders of "Harvey's Marbles" & "Magnetic Island" to the high quality trad and sport climbs of "Mt Stuart" and the 100m multi pitches of "Castle Hill" you will easily find something to suit you.

1.4. West 3 routes in Region

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 142.260316, -22.243794

1.4.1. Mount Isa (Djarra Road) 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 139.493432, -20.730983

1.5. Coral Beach 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Boulder

1.6. Tank Traps 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

1.7. Test Area 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown