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Summary

Sharp but solid and quality Quartz rock. Some problems can be heavily affected by sand build up. If it felt easy, the chances are it used to start much lower! take that into account, and have fun!

Description

This area was first developed in the 90's, and is a great spot right on the waters edge. There is many great steep problems, traverses, High balls, the lot. some landings can be sketchy and uneven so bring crash pads!

Approach

Park on the southern end of Marine Parade in Miami, or alternatively, on the Esplanade on the southern side of the headland infront of Shark Bar.

Ethic

Take all your rubbish with you and dont go to the toilet near the boulders!

History

Info on this area is hard to come by, But the earliest known climbing was done in the 90's. All FA's listed here are to the best of our knowledge and will happily update the guide if things have already been done.

Routes

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Grade Route

This is the main wall on the eastern part of the headland. access is quicker from Marine Parade. Keeping close to the headland, scramble over some boulders and follow a vague track over, around and down till you find this wall.

1
V7 ** Particle Wave Boulder 5m

Start at the low LHS on good holds, and follow the weakness traversing diagonally right on strong holds, push through matching undercling then mantle out for a proper finish on a long boulder route 8m plus. pumpy and committing.

FFA: Cal, 2015

2
V2 * Tan Line Boulder 4m

Start cross handed, move right, up, then diagonally left to sloper edge.

3
V3 Placebo Boulder
4
V2 ** Miami Slicer Boulder 3m

Sit start from undercling then follow the three big holds up. SHARP jug up top.

The next three boulders are just some of the freestanding boulders on the north-eastern side of the headland. Many more problems can be found here with some searching and imagination.

5
V1 Fish Bait Boulder 2m

Sit start on small crimps then move straight up and over the lip.

6
V0 Fish Bait Alt. Boulder 2m

Sit start on small crimps then work left onto the large crack.

7
V2 Grasshopper's Rock Boulder 3m

Start both hands on side pull then move up to crimps and mantle. Don't use arete.

The next wall is located on the south eastern part of the headland and is best accessed via the Esplanade carpark. Walk down to the waters edge close to the headland and go left when possible. The wall starts here. NOTE: All problems left of 'Walk the Plank' can only be climbed on low tide. Everything to the right can be climbed all the time. Varying sand levels at times, adjust starting position as required

8
V2 ** Cannon Ballin' Boulder 4m

Start 1m L of Poseidon, on the obvious 'shield'. Compression start, (crux) then straight up and top out.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

9
V2 * Poseidon Boulder 4m

Start 2m L of The Jackdaw. Sit start in obvious crack feature on good holds. Follow crack line up and R to top out

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

10
V3 *** The Claw Boulder 5m

Start as for Poseidon, but traverse low and R straight away into The Jackdaw and finish up this. Really good climbing, currently the 'Crag Classic'.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

11
V2 * The Jackdaw Boulder 4m

Start 1m L of Gone Fishing . Sit start on big undercling and R sidepull move up and R to a gaston, then up and L to jug, then up to top out.

FFA: Jarryd Blackmore, 2014

12
V1 Gone Fishing Boulder 4m

Start 2m L of Walk the plank. Sit start with a good L hand jamb/side pull. Up and R, then straight up on jugs. Top out.

FFA: Jarryd Blackmore, 2014

13
V2 ** Walk the Plank Boulder 5m

Start 1.5m R of Shipwrecked. Sit start on low jug, move up trending slightly L, then back R and up. top out.

FFA: Jarryd Blackmore, 2014

14
V4 *** Shipwrecked Boulder 3m

Start 3.5m L of HLS. Sit start really low on the jug in the void with a sandy bottom. move up to small holds, then traverse R and up following the weakness, then over grey bulge. Top out.

Set by Tom Reid, 2014

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

15
V5 *** The Black Pearl Boulder Project 4m

Links Shipwrecked into HLS. Start as for Shipwrecked, but instead of finishing up the grey bulge, keep traversing R on slopers into HLS and finish up this.

16

Start 1.5m L of Red Emperor. Sit Start low on side pulls at the bottom of the obvious feature. move up, then R onto face, up to jugs and mantle to small ledge. Highball open project.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

17
V7 *** The Golden Hour Boulder 2m

Blank line Between Hookers lines and sphincter and Red Emperor. Stand start with R hand on undercling as for Red Emperor and Left in Slot-like pocket using lots of toe hooks to reach two finger pocket and dyno to mantle out. SDS yet to go, open project.

FA: Tristen Meacham-Day, 5th Jun

18
V2 * Red Emperor Boulder 3m

On the RHS of obvious smooth red and orange panel. sit start low on underclings, move R out to rail, up to jugs and mantle. Highball top out open project.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

19
V3 * Castaway Crack Boulder 3m

Start 1.5m R of Red Emperor. Sit start low on Jug, move up and L to sharp pocket, then straight up following the crackline with some interesting holds.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

20
V2 * Fishermans Friend Boulder 3m

Start 3m R of Red Emperor. Sit start low on jug to the R, up to tricky rail, move left, then straight up and out on jugs. Highball top out open project.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

21
V4 *** Suck it and see Boulder 3m

Start on good hold at back of roof, work out to pocket, then crimps. Straight up to top, top out and traverse right to descend

FA: Jack Nicholls, 2015

22
V3 Don't Fall Boulder 3m

Sit start on two small jugs and toe hook then move up and slightly left through the roof to mount.

23
*** Torah Boulder 4m

Right hand small undercling, left hand sloppy jug sit start. follow the start of the crack To the Right and top out on the highest point.

FA: Pedro WSD, 26th Aug

Set by Ulead, 26th Aug

24
V3 ** Tob Boulder 3m

Both hands in the start crack, follow the crack line. Just crack And top out at then end of the crack. Sit start.

FA: Ulead

Set by Ulead, 19th Aug

25
V1 Miami Marketta Boulder 3m

Come to the markets, have a bit of fun. Starts opposite MB on the obvious holds and heel hook. Up the feature to slab finish.

26
V1 Miami Break Away Boulder 3m

Starts as for MB, but heads out right along shelf-like feature, before rocking up to huge jug and rejoining MB at it's top.

27
V1 Miami Break Boulder 3m

Starts low on obvious jugs at the base of the break. Pretty nice.

28
V4 ** hypodermic Boulder 2m

start under roof, on 2 poor underclings, move out over lip and up face past 3 finger right hand pocket

FA: Jack Nicholls, 10th Aug

29
V1 *** YAHUSHUA Boulder 4m

Same boulder as Miami break on the left, Sit start heel hook,

Set by Ulead, 2015

FFA: Ulead, 2015

30
V0 Welcome to Miami Boulder 1m

Starts low on obvious jugs, traverses the lip, then rocks over to top out. Short and sweet but nothing special.

31
V1 *** MAYIM Boulder 4m

boulder next to welcome to Miami on the right. Right heel hook sit start

Set by ULEAD, 2015

FFA: ULEAD, 2015

32
V1 * Da'at Boulder 5m

left heel hook start on awesome jugs, heel hook all the way. follow the line. Top out at the very end of the flake.

Set 7th Aug

FA: ULEAD, 7th Aug

33
V0 * Echad Boulder 6m

long traverse to the right

Set by Pedro WSD

FA: Pedro WSD, 7th Aug

34
V0 Isha Boulder 3m

Sit start, traverse left,

Set by ULEAD, 7th Aug

FA: ULEAD, 7th Aug

35
V1 ** Tefillah Boulder 4m

Set by ULEAD, 7th Aug

FA: Pedro WSD, 24th Aug

36
V1 ** Tehilla Boulder 3m

Set by ULEAD, 7th Aug

FA: Pedro WSD, 24th Aug

37
V1 ** El-Olam Boulder 5m

left heel hook start follow the line

Set by ULEAD, 7th Aug

FA: ULEAD, 7th Aug

38
V2 * Hodu Boulder 4m

Start on the undercling and shoot for the lip, mental in to it.

Set by Pedro WSD, 17th Aug

FA: Pedro WSD, 17th Aug

39
V1 Ish Boulder 3m

Sit start straight up. Very sharp rock.

Set by Pedro WSD, 17th Aug

FFA: Pedro WSD, 17th Aug

40
V1 Kadosh Boulder 7m

Sit start follow the crack, keep moving left, top out at the end of the crack.

Set by ULEAD, 17th Aug

FA: ULEAD, 17th Aug

41
V2 ** Ruach Boulder 5m

Sit start, traverse left follow the line. Top out on the highest point.

Set by Pedro & Ulead, 17th Aug

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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