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Summary

Sharp but solid and quality Quartz rock. Some problems can be heavily affected by sand build up. If it felt easy, the chances are it used to start much lower! take that into account, and have fun!

Description

This area was first developed in the 90's, and is a great spot right on the waters edge. There is many great steep problems, traverses, High balls, the lot. some landings can be sketchy and uneven so bring crash pads! Watch out for broken glass over lips and in cracks, make sure you check out your holds before you climb and clean out any glass.

Access issues

Check the low tide time and if possible, climb at these time as some climbs become inaccessible or wet.

Approach

Park on the southern end of Marine Parade in Miami, or alternatively, on the Esplanade on the southern side of the headland infront of Shark Bar.

Ethic

Take all your rubbish with you and dont go to the toilet near the boulders!

History

View historical timeline

Info on this area is hard to come by, but the earliest known climbing was done in the early 90's. All FA's listed here are to the best of our knowledge and will happily update the guide if things have already been done.

Routes

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Grade Route

The next wall is located on the south eastern part of the headland and is best accessed via the Esplanade carpark. Walk down to the waters edge close to the headland and go left when possible. The wall starts here. NOTE: All problems left of 'Walk the Plank' can only be climbed on low tide. Everything to the right can be climbed all the time. Varying sand levels at times, adjust starting position as required

Start 1m L of Poseidon, on the obvious 'shield'. Compression start, (crux) then straight up and top out.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

Start 2m L of The Jackdaw. Sit start in obvious crack feature on good holds. Follow crack line up and R to top out

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

Start as for Poseidon, but traverse low and R straight away into The Jackdaw and finish up this. Really good climbing, currently the 'Crag Classic'.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

Start 1m L of Gone Fishing . Sit start on big undercling and R sidepull move up and R to a gaston, then up and L to jug, then up to top out.

FFA: Jarryd Blackmore, 2014

Start 2m L of Walk the plank. Sit start with a good L hand jamb/side pull. Up and R, then straight up on jugs. Top out.

FFA: Jarryd Blackmore, 2014

Start 1.5m R of Shipwrecked. Sit start on low jug, move up trending slightly L, then back R and up. top out.

FFA: Jarryd Blackmore, 2014

Start 3.5m L of HLS. Sit start really low on the jug in the void with a sandy bottom. move up to small holds, then traverse R and up following the weakness, then over grey bulge. Top out.

Set by Tom Reid, 2014

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

Links Shipwrecked into HLS. Start as for Shipwrecked, but instead of finishing up the grey bulge, keep traversing R on slopers into HLS and finish up this.

Start 1.5m L of Red Emperor. Sit Start low on side pulls at the bottom of the obvious feature. move up, then R onto face, up to jugs and mantle to small ledge. Highball open project.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

Blank line Between Hookers lines and sphincter and Red Emperor. Stand start with R hand on undercling as for Red Emperor and Left in Slot-like pocket using lots of toe hooks to reach two finger pocket and dyno to mantle out. SDS yet to go, open project.

On the RHS of obvious smooth red and orange panel. sit start low on underclings, move R out to rail, up to jugs and mantle. Highball top out open project.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

Start 3m R of Red Emperor. Sit start low on jug to the R, up to tricky rail, move left, then straight up and out on jugs. Highball top out open project.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

Start 1.5m R of Red Emperor. Sit start low on Jug, move up and L to sharp pocket, then straight up following the crackline with some interesting holds.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

left heel hook start on awesome jugs, heel hook all the way. follow the line. Top out at the very end of the flake.

FA: Matt Hutton, 1990

long traverse to the right

FA: Matt Hutton, 1990

start on sharp under cling and three finger pocket feet on okay edge left hand to good crimp left leg heel hooks round the lip on good edge then bump left hand to sloper move left leg to okay edge to heel hook again.

Set by Will Lee, 2015

FA: Will Lee, 2015

Sit start, traverse left,

Set by Yulid Shorrock, 2015

FA: Yulid Shorrock, 2015

Set by Yulid Shorrock, 2015

FA: Will Lee, 2015

Set by Yulid Shorrock, 2015

FA: WSD, 2015

Set by Yulid Shorrock, 2015

FA: WSD, 2015

left heel hook start,look at photo and follow the line!

Set by Yulid Shorrock, 2015

FA: Yulid Shorrock, 2015

This is the main wall on the eastern part of the headland. access is quicker from Marine Parade. Keeping close to the headland, scramble over some boulders and follow a vague track over, around and down till you find this wall.

Sharp little cave problem, 10 meters left from Particle wave wall.start from the inside right of the cave. little cave usually lots of rubbish from the ocean. be careful the flakes in some section breaks off. ps. always take rubbish bag and clean up, tnx.

The lonely Big rock on the beach 5 meters from the little cave. Heel hook all the way mental finish.

Set 2016

FFA: 2016

Start at the low LHS on good holds, and follow the weakness traversing diagonally right on strong sloped holds, find knee bar rest. Push through matching undercling into sharp quartz rock with long moves, keeping feet on soild rock, hug the last big blocks being cautious of the last one. rock over mantle. 8m boulder Video is on the net, v4 holds gets a v5 as conditions are rarely bomber this close to the coast. There are 3 alternate finishes all of them are quality and stay at v5.

FFA: Matt Hutton, 1990

Set by WSD

FA: Will Lee, 2016

Start cross handed, move right, up, then diagonally left to sloper edge.

Sit start from undercling then follow the three big holds up. SHARP jug up top.

FA: Matt Hutton, 1990

Hanging start, reach around bulge to slot and sloper, dyno to jug mantle over to left side pull. Up you go. Traverse right to get down.

FA: Matt Hutton, 1990

Start on good hold at back of roof, work out to pocket, then crimps. Straight up to top, top out and traverse right to descend

FA: Matt Hutton, 1990

The last alternate finish, squeezed in but uses all her own holds. Exit out just above double under cling rail, cutting feet is always fun.

FA: Matt Hutton, 1990

Alt finish to particle wave, enter sharp quartz area. Throw out and left to black rail. Right side pull in quartz area assists mantle. Traverse right to get down

FA: Matt Hutton, 1990

The next three boulders are just some of the freestanding boulders on the north-eastern side of the headland. Many more problems can be found here with some searching and imagination.

Sit start on small crimps then move straight up and over the lip.

Sit start on small crimps then work left onto the large crack.

Sit start, traverse left follow the line. Top out on the highest point.

FFA: Leighton Smith

Set by Pedro & Yulid Shorrock, 2015

Sit start follow the crack, keep moving left, top out at the end of the crack.

Set by Yulid Shorrock, 2015

FA: Yulid Shorrock, 2015

Sit start straight up. Very sharp rock.

FA: WSD

Set by WSD, 2015

FFA: 2015

Start on the under-cling and shoot for the lip, mental in to it.

Set by WSD, 2015

FA: WSD, 2015

Follow No fear and instead of topping out climb down, through cave and finish at Mayim. Mantle finish... harder V5 open project

Follow no fear on good 2 hand jug and link Toqeph and Mayim the two V5 in Reverse. (start on No Fear) ... long endurance needed for overhangs. Open project

Set by Yulid Shorrock, 2015

start on huge 2 hand jug, make your way along the outside of boulder. only using hold on the outside. make your way around the outside of the boulder staying low and top out on the high point.(don't use the hold on top until top out.same finish as Torah.

Set by Yulid Shorrock, 2015

FA: WSD, 2015

Start on no fear, passing trough don't fall and make your way to the crack finish of Torah

Set by Yulid Shorrock, 2015

FA: Yulid Shorrock, 2015

Sit start on two small jugs and toe hook then move up and slightly left through the roof to mount.

sit start on small red rock, strong pull on leads to blind throw over bulge then straight up. keep the hips in.

FA: unknown, 1990

Start as No Fear finish at the start of YAHUSHUA

Set by Yulid Shorrock, 2015

Start just below direct and make your way to the left passing Torah finishing at YAHUSHUA

Right hand small under-cling, left hand sloppy jug sit start. follow the start of the crack To the Right and top out on the highest point. use only white crack, don't use the black jug. (that's Cheating)

FA: Pedro WSD, 2015

Set by Yulid Shorrock, 2015

Set 2015

Starts low on obvious jugs, traverses the lip, then rocks over to top out. Short and sweet but nothing special.

Start on MB on two good jugs then traverse right get heel on good jug right hand to sloper then bump to good crimp heel hook the sloppy edge left hand to good jug. Linked and finishes on Torah V2 problem. use only white crack, don't use the black jug. (that's Cheating)

Set by Will Lee, 2015

FA: Will Lee, 2015

Starts low on obvious jugs at the base of the break. Pretty nice.

Starts as for MB, but heads out right along shelf-like feature, before rocking up to huge jug and rejoining MB at it's top.

start under roof, on 2 poor underclings, move out over lip and up face past 3 finger right hand pocket

FA: Jack Nicholls, 2015

Start from YAHUSHUA pass Hypodermic, MB pass through the cave, pass Torah make your way right and finish at Toqeph. It'so long if it was vertical it would have bolt. Bring your stamina with you.

Set by Yulid Shorrock, 2015

FA: Yulid Shorrock, 2016

Same boulder as Miami break on the left, Sit start heel hook,

Set by Yulid Shorrock, 2015

FFA: Yulid Shorrock, 2015

Come to the markets, have a bit of fun. Starts opposite MB on the obvious holds and heel hook. Up the feature to slab finish.

Start both hands on side pull then move up to crimps and mantle. Don't use arete.

Sit start below lower flake, move up to lower flake and follow. Move up to upper flake and top out on the far right with mantle. If possible, start at the lowest point of boulder as sand can affect the starting point. Located on the other side of Grasshopper's Rock and starts on the bottom of the two flakes that run up from left to right.

Set by Sam Stevenson, 2016

FA: Sam Stevenson, 2016

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