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Summary

Sharp but solid and quality Quartz rock. Some problems can be heavily affected by sand build up. If it felt easy, the chances are it used to start much lower! take that into account, and have fun!

Description

This area was first developed in the 90's, and is a great spot right on the waters edge. There is many great steep problems, traverses, High balls, the lot. some landings can be sketchy and uneven so bring crash pads!

Approach

Park on the southern end of Marine Parade in Miami, or alternatively, on the Esplanade on the southern side of the headland infront of Shark Bar.

Ethic

Take all your rubbish with you and dont go to the toilet near the boulders!

History

Info on this area is hard to come by, But the earliest known climbing was done in the 90's. All FA's listed here are to the best of our knowledge and will happily update the guide if things have already been done.

Routes

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Grade Route

This is the main wall on the eastern part of the headland. access is quicker from Marine Parade. Keeping close to the headland, scramble over some boulders and follow a vague track over, around and down till you find this wall.

1
V7 ** Particle Wave Boulder 3m

Start at the low LHS on good holds, and follow the weakness traversing diagonally up and R to top out at the obvious 'end'.

FFA: 1990

2
V2 * Tan Line Boulder 4m

Start cross handed, move right, up, then diagonally left to sloper edge.

3
V2 * Miami Slicer Boulder 3m

Sit start from undercling then follow the three big holds up. SHARP jug up top.

The next three boulders are just some of the freestanding boulders on the north-eastern side of the headland. Many more problems can be found here with some searching and imagination.

4
V3 Don't Fall Boulder 3m

Sit start on two small jugs and toe hook then move up and slightly left through the roof to mount.

5
V1 Fish Bait Boulder 2m

Sit start on small crimps then move straight up and over the lip.

6
V0 Fish Bait Alt. Boulder 2m

Sit start on small crimps then work left onto the large crack.

7
V2 Grasshopper's Rock Boulder 3m

Start both hands on side pull then move up to crimps and mantle. Don't use arete.

The next wall is located on the south eastern part of the headland and is best accessed via the Esplanade carpark. Walk down to the waters edge close to the headland and go left when possible. The wall starts here. NOTE: All problems left of 'Walk the Plank' can only be climbed on low tide. Everything to the right can be climbed all the time. Varying sand levels at times, adjust starting position as required

8
V4 ** Cannon Ballin' Boulder 4m

Start 1m L of Poseidon, on the obvious 'shield'. Compression start, (crux) then straight up and top out.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

9
V2 ** Poseidon Boulder 4m

Start 2m L of The Jackdaw. Sit start in obvious crack feature on good holds. Follow crack line up and R to top out

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

10
V3 *** The Claw Boulder 5m

Start as for Poseidon, but traverse low and R straight away into The Jackdaw and finish up this. Really good climbing, currently the 'Crag Classic'.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

11
V2 * The Jackdaw Boulder 4m

Start 1m L of Gone Fishing . Sit start on big undercling and R sidepull move up and R to a gaston, then up and L to jug, then up to top out.

FFA: Jarryd Blackmore, 2014

12
V1 Gone Fishing Boulder 4m

Start 2m L of Walk the plank. Sit start with a good L hand jamb/side pull. Up and R, then straight up on jugs. Top out.

FFA: Jarryd Blackmore, 2014

13
V2 *** Walk the Plank Boulder 5m

Start 1.5m R of Shipwrecked. Sit start on low jug, move up trending slightly L, then back R and up. top out.

FFA: Jarryd Blackmore, 2014

14
V5 *** Shipwrecked Boulder 3m

Start 3.5m L of HLS. Sit start really low on the jug in the void with a sandy bottom. move up to small holds, then traverse R and up following the weakness, then over grey bulge. Top out.

Set by Tom Reid, 2014

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

15
V5 *** The Black Pearl Boulder Project 4m

Links Shipwrecked into HLS. Start as for Shipwrecked, but instead of finishing up the grey bulge, keep traversing R on slopers into HLS and finish up this.

16

Start 1.5m L of Red Emperor. Sit Start low on side pulls at the bottom of the obvious feature. move up, then R onto face, up to jugs and mantle to small ledge. Highball open project.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

17
V2 * Red Emperor Boulder 3m

On the RHS of obvious smooth red and orange panel. sit start low on underclings, move R out to rail, up to jugs and mantle. Highball top out open project.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

18
V3 * Castaway Crack Boulder 3m

Start 1.5m R of Red Emperor. Sit start low on Jug, move up and L to sharp pocket, then straight up following the crackline with some interesting holds.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

19
V2 * Fishermans Friend Boulder 3m

Start 3m R of Red Emperor. Sit start low on jug to the R, up to tricky rail, move left, then straight up and out on jugs. Highball top out open project.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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