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Table of contents

1. North Burleigh Bouldering 58 routes in Crag

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.446457, -28.071894

Unique Features And Strengths:

Sharp but solid and quality Quartz rock. Some problems can be heavily affected by sand build up. If it felt easy, the chances are it used to start much lower! take that into account, and have fun!


This area was first developed in the 90's, and is a great spot right on the waters edge. There is many great steep problems, traverses, High balls, the lot. some landings can be sketchy and uneven so bring crash pads! Watch out for broken glass over lips and in cracks, make sure you check out your holds before you climb and clean out any glass.

Access Issues:

Check the low tide time and if possible, climb at these time as some climbs become inaccessible or wet.


Park on the southern end of Marine Parade in Miami, or alternatively, on the Esplanade on the southern side of the headland infront of Shark Bar.


Take all your rubbish with you and dont go to the toilet near the boulders!


Info on this area is hard to come by, but the earliest known climbing was done in the early 90's. All FA's listed here are to the best of our knowledge and will happily update the guide if things have already been done.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The next wall is located on the south eastern part of the headland and is best accessed via the Esplanade carpark. Walk down to the waters edge close to the headland and go left when possible. The wall starts here. NOTE: All problems left of 'Walk the Plank' can only be climbed on low tide. Everything to the right can be climbed all the time. Varying sand levels at times, adjust starting position as required

1 ** Cannon Ballin'

Start 1m L of Poseidon, on the obvious 'shield'. Compression start, (crux) then straight up and top out.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

V2 Boulder 4m
2 * Poseidon

Start 2m L of The Jackdaw. Sit start in obvious crack feature on good holds. Follow crack line up and R to top out

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

V2 Boulder 4m
3 *** The Claw

Start as for Poseidon, but traverse low and R straight away into The Jackdaw and finish up this. Really good climbing, currently the 'Crag Classic'.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

V3 Boulder 5m
4 * The Jackdaw

Start 1m L of Gone Fishing . Sit start on big undercling and R sidepull move up and R to a gaston, then up and L to jug, then up to top out.

FFA: Jarryd Blackmore, 2014

V2 Boulder 4m
5 Gone Fishing

Start 2m L of Walk the plank. Sit start with a good L hand jamb/side pull. Up and R, then straight up on jugs. Top out.

FFA: Jarryd Blackmore, 2014

V1 Boulder 4m
6 ** Walk the Plank

Start 1.5m R of Shipwrecked. Sit start on low jug, move up trending slightly L, then back R and up. top out.

FFA: Jarryd Blackmore, 2014

V2 Boulder 5m
7 *** Shipwrecked

Start 3.5m L of HLS. Sit start really low on the jug in the void with a sandy bottom. move up to small holds, then traverse R and up following the weakness, then over grey bulge. Top out.

Set by Tom Reid, 2014

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

V4 Boulder 3m
8 *** The Black Pearl

Links Shipwrecked into HLS. Start as for Shipwrecked, but instead of finishing up the grey bulge, keep traversing R on slopers into HLS and finish up this.

V5 Boulder Project 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 * Hookers, Lines and Sphincters

Start 1.5m L of Red Emperor. Sit Start low on side pulls at the bottom of the obvious feature. move up, then R onto face, up to jugs and mantle to small ledge. Highball open project.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

V3 Boulder 3m
10 *** The Golden Hour

Blank line Between Hookers lines and sphincter and Red Emperor. Stand start with R hand on undercling as for Red Emperor and Left in Slot-like pocket using lots of toe hooks to reach two finger pocket and dyno to mantle out. SDS yet to go, open project.

FA: @tristenmeachamday, 2015

V7 Boulder 2m
11 * Red Emperor

On the RHS of obvious smooth red and orange panel. sit start low on underclings, move R out to rail, up to jugs and mantle. Highball top out open project.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

V2 Boulder 3m
12 * Fishermans Friend

Start 3m R of Red Emperor. Sit start low on jug to the R, up to tricky rail, move left, then straight up and out on jugs. Highball top out open project.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

V2 Boulder 3m
13 * Castaway Crack

Start 1.5m R of Red Emperor. Sit start low on Jug, move up and L to sharp pocket, then straight up following the crackline with some interesting holds.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

V3 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 * Da'at

left heel hook start on awesome jugs, heel hook all the way. follow the line. Top out at the very end of the flake.

Set 2015

FA: ULEAD, 2015

V2 Boulder 5m
15 * Echad

long traverse to the right

Set by Pedro WSD

FA: Pedro WSD, 2015

V0 Boulder 6m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 ** Love at First Sight

start on sharp under cling and three finger pocket feet on okay edge left hand to good crimp left leg heel hooks round the lip on good edge then bump left hand to sloper move left leg to okay edge to heel hook again.

Set by Will Lee, 2015

FA: Will Lee, 2015

V4 Boulder 2m
17 Isha

Sit start, traverse left,

Set by ULEAD, 2015

FA: ULEAD, 2015

V0 Boulder 3m
18 ** To love

Set by Ulead, 2015

FA: Will Lee, 2015

V4 Boulder 3m
19 ** Tefillah

Set by ULEAD, 2015

FA: Pedro WSD, 2015

V1 Boulder 4m
20 ** Tehilla

Set by ULEAD, 2015

FA: Pedro WSD, 2015

V1 Boulder 3m
21 ** El-Olam

left heel hook start follow the line

Set by ULEAD, 2015

FA: ULEAD, 2015

V1 Boulder 5m

This is the main wall on the eastern part of the headland. access is quicker from Marine Parade. Keeping close to the headland, scramble over some boulders and follow a vague track over, around and down till you find this wall.


Sharp little cave problem, start from the inside right of the cave.

V4 to V5 Boulder Project 4m
23 See

Set by @climbarts, 10th Mar

FFA: @climbarts, 10th Mar

V1 Boulder 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
24 *** Particle Wave

Start at the low LHS on good holds, and follow the weakness traversing diagonally right on strong sloped holds, find knee bar rest. Push through matching undercling into sharp quartz rock with long moves, keeping feet on soild rock, hug the last big blocks being cautious of the last one. rock over mantle. 8m boulder Video is on the net. There are 3 alternate finishes all of them are quality and stay at v7 from particle start.

FFA: Unknown, 1990

V7 Boulder 8m
25 Groundhog day

Set by WSD

FA: Will Lee, 1st Apr

V4 Boulder 9m
26 * Tan Line

Start cross handed, move right, up, then diagonally left to sloper edge.

V2 Boulder 4m
27 ** Miami Slicer

Sit start from undercling then follow the three big holds up. SHARP jug up top.

V2 Boulder 3m
28 Placebo V3 Boulder
29 *** Dude looks like a lady

Hanging start, reach around bulge to slot and sloper, dyno to jug mantle over to left side pull. Up you go. Traverse right to get down.

FA: unknown, 1990

V3 Boulder 4m
30 *** Suck it and see

Start on good hold at back of roof, work out to pocket, then crimps. Straight up to top, top out and traverse right to descend

FA: @fatyak, 2015

V4 Boulder 3m
31 *** squeezed in

The last alternate finish, squeezed in but uses all her own holds. Exit out just above double under cling rail, cutting feet is always fun.

FA: unknown, 1990

V4 Boulder 4m
32 *** Alt finish

Alt finish to particle wave, enter sharp quartz area. Throw out and left to black rail. Right side pull in quartz area assists mantle. Traverse right to get down

FA: unknown, 1990

V3 Boulder 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The next three boulders are just some of the freestanding boulders on the north-eastern side of the headland. Many more problems can be found here with some searching and imagination.

33 Fish Bait

Sit start on small crimps then move straight up and over the lip.

V1 Boulder 2m
34 Fish Bait Alt.

Sit start on small crimps then work left onto the large crack.

V0 Boulder 2m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
35 ** Ruach

Sit start, traverse left follow the line. Top out on the highest point.

FFA: @leightonsmith

Set by Pedro,@climbarts, 2015

V2 Boulder 5m
36 Kadosh

Sit start follow the crack, keep moving left, top out at the end of the crack.

Set by @climbarts, 2015

FA: @climbarts, 2015

V1 Boulder 7m
37 Ish

Sit start straight up. Very sharp rock.

Set by Pedro WSD, 2015

FFA: Pedro WSD, 2015

V1 Boulder 3m
38 * Hodu

Start on the undercling and shoot for the lip, mental in to it.

Set by Pedro WSD, 2015

FA: Pedro WSD, 2015

V2 Boulder 4m
39 Do Or Do Not, There Is No Try (REVERSE)

Start as No Fear finish at the start of YAHUSHUA

Set by Yulid Shorrock, 2015

V5 Boulder Project 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
40 *** No Fear

start on huge 2 hand jug, make your way along the outside of boulder. only using hold on the outside. make your way around the outside of the boulder staying low and top out on the high point.(don't use the hold on top until top out.same finish as Torah.

Set by @climbarts, 2015

FA: WSD, 2015

V3 Boulder 4m
41 Princess Fingers

Start on no fear, passing trough don't fall and make your way to the crack finish of Torah

Set by @climbarts, 2015

FA: @climbarts, 2015

V4 Boulder 4m
42 * Don't Fall

Sit start on two small jugs and toe hook then move up and slightly left through the roof to mount.

V3 Boulder 3m
43 ** direct

sit start on small red rock, strong pull on leads to blind throw over bulge then straight up. keep the hips in.

FA: unknown, 1990

V4 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
44 AKH

Start just below direct and make your way to the left passing Torah finishing at YAHUSHUA

V4 to V5 Boulder Project 5m
45 *** Torah

Right hand small under-cling, left hand sloppy jug sit start. follow the start of the crack To the Right and top out on the highest point. use only white crack, don't use the black jug. (that's Cheating)

FA: Pedro WSD, 2015

Set by @climbarts, 2015

V4 Boulder 4m
46 ** Tob

Both hands in the start crack, follow the crack line. Just crack And top out at then end of the crack. Sit start.

FA: @climbarts

Set by @climbarts, 2015

V3 Boulder 3m
47 Welcome to Miami

Starts low on obvious jugs, traverses the lip, then rocks over to top out. Short and sweet but nothing special.

V0 Boulder 1m
48 *** Free Willy

Start on MB on two good jugs then traverse right get heel on good jug right hand to sloper then bump to good crimp heel hook the sloppy edge left hand to good jug. Linked and finishes on Torah V2 problem. use only white crack, don't use the black jug. (that's Cheating)

Set by Will Lee, 2015

FA: Will Lee, 2015

V3 Boulder 5m
49 Toqeph (power, strength, energy)

Start on freewilly, climb out of cave, stay low , stay on the edge to the right mantle finish on the horn.

Set by @climbarts, 2015

FA: @climbarts, 14th Feb

V4 Boulder 7m
50 Miami Break

Starts low on obvious jugs at the base of the break. Pretty nice.

V1 Boulder 3m
51 Miami Break Away

Starts as for MB, but heads out right along shelf-like feature, before rocking up to huge jug and rejoining MB at it's top.

V1 Boulder 3m
52 ** hypodermic

start under roof, on 2 poor underclings, move out over lip and up face past 3 finger right hand pocket

FA: @fatyak, 2015

V4 Boulder 2m
53 ** MAYIM

Start from YAHUSHUA pass Hypodermic, MB pass through the cave, pass Torah make your way right and finish at Toqeph. It'so long if it was vertical it would have bolt. Bring your stamina with you.

Set by @climbarts, 2015

FA: Yulid Shorrock, 2nd Apr

V5 Boulder 12m
54 Shark Attack

Hard core to be continue...PROJECT.... next to Torah and Princess Fingers

Set by Yulid Shorrock, 24th Apr

V6 Boulder Project 4m

Same boulder as Miami break on the left, Sit start heel hook,

Set by @climbarts, 2015

FFA: @climbarts, 2015

V1 Boulder 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
56 *** Miami Marketta

Come to the markets, have a bit of fun. Starts opposite MB on the obvious holds and heel hook. Up the feature to slab finish.

V1 Boulder 4m
57 Grasshopper's Rock

Start both hands on side pull then move up to crimps and mantle. Don't use arete.

V2 Boulder 3m
58 Miami Flake

Sit start below lower flake, move up to lower flake and follow. Move up to upper flake and top out on the far right with mantle. If possible, start at the lowest point of boulder as sand can affect the starting point. Located on the other side of Grasshopper's Rock and starts on the bottom of the two flakes that run up from left to right.

Set by @stevo2224, 2016

FA: @stevo2224, 2016

V1 Boulder 2m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
V0 * Echad Boulder 6m
Fish Bait Alt. Boulder 2m
Isha Boulder 3m
Welcome to Miami Boulder 1m
V1 ** El-Olam Boulder 5m
Fish Bait Boulder 2m
Gone Fishing Boulder 4m
Ish Boulder 3m
Kadosh Boulder 7m
Miami Break Boulder 3m
Miami Break Away Boulder 3m
Miami Flake Boulder 2m
*** Miami Marketta Boulder 4m
See Boulder 4m
** Tefillah Boulder 4m
** Tehilla Boulder 3m
*** YAHUSHUA Boulder 4m
V2 ** Cannon Ballin' Boulder 4m
* Da'at Boulder 5m
* Fishermans Friend Boulder 3m
Grasshopper's Rock Boulder 3m
* Hodu Boulder 4m
** Miami Slicer Boulder 3m
* Poseidon Boulder 4m
* Red Emperor Boulder 3m
** Ruach Boulder 5m
* Tan Line Boulder 4m
* The Jackdaw Boulder 4m
** Walk the Plank Boulder 5m
V3 *** Alt finish Boulder 4m
* Castaway Crack Boulder 3m
* Don't Fall Boulder 3m
*** Dude looks like a lady Boulder 4m
*** Free Willy Boulder 5m
* Hookers, Lines and Sphincters Boulder 3m
*** No Fear Boulder 4m
Placebo Boulder
*** The Claw Boulder 5m
** Tob Boulder 3m
V4 Groundhog day Boulder 9m
** Love at First Sight Boulder 2m
Princess Fingers Boulder 4m
*** Shipwrecked Boulder 3m
*** Suck it and see Boulder 3m
** To love Boulder 3m
Toqeph (power, strength, energy) Boulder 7m
*** Torah Boulder 4m
** direct Boulder 3m
** hypodermic Boulder 2m
*** squeezed in Boulder 4m
V4 to V5 AHAVAH Boulder Project 4m
AKH Boulder Project 5m
V5 Do Or Do Not, There Is No Try (REVERSE) Boulder Project 14m
** MAYIM Boulder 12m
*** The Black Pearl Boulder Project 4m
V6 Shark Attack Boulder Project 4m
V7 *** Particle Wave Boulder 8m
*** The Golden Hour Boulder 2m