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Table of contents

1. North Burleigh Bouldering 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 153.446457, -28.071894

Unique Features And Strengths:

Steep Quartz boulders heavily featured with jugs pockets and slopers.

Description:

This area was first developed in the 90's, and is a great spot right on the waters edge. There is many great steep problems, traverses, High balls, the lot. some landings can be sketchy and uneven so bring crash pads!

Approach:

Park on the southern end of Marine Parade in Miami, or alternatively, on the Esplanade on the southern side of the headland infront of Shark Bar.

Ethic:

Take all your rubbish with you and dont go to the toilet near the boulders!

History:

Info on this area is hard to come by, But the earliest known climbing was done in the 90's. All FA's listed here are to the best of our knowledge and will happily update the guide if things have already been done.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

This is the main wall on the eastern part of the headland. access is quicker from Marine Parade. Keeping close to the headland, scramble over some boulders and follow a vague track over, around and down till you find this wall.

1 ** Particle Wave

Start at the low LHS on good holds, and follow the weakness traversing diagonally up and R to top out at the obvious 'end'.

FFA: 1990

V7Boulder 3m
2 * Tan Line

Start cross handed, move right, up, then diagonally left to sloper edge.

V2Boulder 4m
3 * Miami Slicer

Sit start from undercling then follow the three big holds up. SHARP jug up top.

V2Boulder 3m

The next three boulders are just some of the freestanding boulders on the north-eastern side of the headland. Many more problems can be found here with some searching and imagination.

4 Don't Fall

Sit start on two small jugs and toe hook then move up and slightly left through the roof to mount.

V3Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 Fish Bait

Sit start on small crimps then move straight up and over the lip.

V1Boulder 2m
6 Fish Bait Alt.

Sit start on small crimps then work left onto the large crack.

V0Boulder 2m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Grasshopper's Rock

Start both hands on side pull then move up to crimps and mantle. Don't use arete.

V2Boulder 3m

The next wall is located on the south eastern part of the headland and is best accessed via the Esplanade carpark. Walk down to the waters edge close to the headland and go left when possible. The wall starts here. NOTE: All problems left of 'Walk the Plank' can only be climbed on low tide. Everything to the right can be climbed all the time. Varying sand levels at times, adjust starting position as required

8 ** Cannon Ballin'

Start 1m L of Poseidon, on the obvious 'shield'. Compression start, (crux) then straight up and top out.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

V4Boulder 4m
9 ** Poseidon

Start 2m L of The Jackdaw. Sit start in obvious crack feature on good holds. Follow crack line up and R to top out

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

V2Boulder 4m
10 *** The Claw

Start as for Poseidon, but traverse low and R straight away into The Jackdaw and finish up this. Really good climbing, currently the 'Crag Classic'.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

V3Boulder 5m
11 * The Jackdaw

Start 1m L of Gone Fishing . Sit start on big undercling and R sidepull move up and R to a gaston, then up and L to jug, then up to top out.

FFA: Jarryd Blackmore, 2014

V2Boulder 4m
12 Gone Fishing

Start 2m L of Walk the plank. Sit start with a good L hand jamb/side pull. Up and R, then straight up on jugs. Top out.

FFA: Jarryd Blackmore, 2014

V1Boulder 4m
13 *** Walk the Plank

Start 1.5m R of Shipwrecked. Sit start on low jug, move up trending slightly L, then back R and up. top out.

FFA: Jarryd Blackmore, 2014

V2Boulder 5m
14 *** Shipwrecked

Start 3.5m L of HLS. Sit start really low on the jug in the void with a sandy bottom. move up to small holds, then traverse R and up following the weakness, then over grey bulge. Top out.

Set by Tom Reid, 2014

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

V5Boulder 3m
15 *** The Black Pearl

Links Shipwrecked into HLS. Start as for Shipwrecked, but instead of finishing up the grey bulge, keep traversing R on slopers into HLS and finish up this.

V5Boulder Project 4m
16 * Hookers, Lines and Sphincters

Start 1.5m L of Red Emperor. Sit Start low on side pulls at the bottom of the obvious feature. move up, then R onto face, up to jugs and mantle to small ledge. Highball open project.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

V3Boulder 3m
17 * Red Emperor

On the RHS of obvious smooth red and orange panel. sit start low on underclings, move R out to rail, up to jugs and mantle. Highball top out open project.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

V2Boulder 3m
18 * Castaway Crack

Start 1.5m R of Red Emperor. Sit start low on Jug, move up and L to sharp pocket, then straight up following the crackline with some interesting holds.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

V3Boulder 3m
19 * Fishermans Friend

Start 3m R of Red Emperor. Sit start low on jug to the R, up to tricky rail, move left, then straight up and out on jugs. Highball top out open project.

FFA: Tom Reid, 2014

V2Boulder 3m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
V0 Fish Bait Alt. Boulder 2m
V1 Fish Bait Boulder 2m
Gone Fishing Boulder 4m
V2 * Fishermans Friend Boulder 3m
Grasshopper's Rock Boulder 3m
* Miami Slicer Boulder 3m
** Poseidon Boulder 4m
* Red Emperor Boulder 3m
* Tan Line Boulder 4m
* The Jackdaw Boulder 4m
*** Walk the Plank Boulder 5m
V3 * Castaway Crack Boulder 3m
Don't Fall Boulder 3m
* Hookers, Lines and Sphincters Boulder 3m
*** The Claw Boulder 5m
V4 ** Cannon Ballin' Boulder 4m
V5 *** Shipwrecked Boulder 3m
*** The Black Pearl Boulder Project 4m
V7 ** Particle Wave Boulder 3m