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Great climbing and afternoon shade.
A few different sectors to choose from with varied climbing. From pockets to slabs to steep pumpy walls perched high up off the deck, whatever you're into!
The cliff face on the walk in, ending just before the start of all The Gold Coast sector. This covers ~150m of cliff. The Sun Bowl is visible above this area.
The Sun Bowl is a large orange bowl of rock about 20m off the deck. There are two belays that routes climb from. These two belays are connected via a fixed rope. To do the routes on the left, ramble up the vegetated Valencia or climb Are We Dancer. To access the right belay, you can climb Tinka extension, or carefully Traverse across from the left belay station via the fixed rope.
The big obvious grey and orange overhang at the top, high above Ice Cream Wall. Should produce some nice routes in the 20s in a great position. Currently inaccessible, with both a CLOSED PROJECT MULTI for access and multiple CLOSED single pitch PROJECTS at the summit. Speak to Nathan, Todd, Reido or Glenn.
Ice Cream Wall is ~100m to the right of the Gold Coast Wall on the obvious, streaked and gently overhung wall 20m off the deck that comes into view after passing the slabs.
Walk a further 5 minutes past the previous sectors until you spot an obvious square-cut, left facing pillar.
The wall facing west that you first walk in (from the lower access location). Shaded in the mornings.
This cliff is inside SEQ Water property, and no access agreements have been made. The fire trail and bushland is publicly accessible and the trails are well used by bushwalkers and fitness nuts. It is best to keep all climbing gear inside our packs to not attract undue attention.
The carpark and trail head is on Pine Creek Road at a bend 1.4 km uphill after turning off from the Nerang Murwillumbah Road. Do not block the locked gates at this carpark and park parallel and close to each other so that more cars can fit.
The walk to the Gold Coast sector is 2.3km and mostly uphill.
From the 'carpark' take the gate on the right and head down the fire trail. When you come to the first junction turn right. This will lead down and accross a broad creek bed before starting to head back up hill. At the next junction keep right and then 60 meters later at the following junction keep left. Slog it out along the fire trail up some steep hills.
There are two cairned paths (to the left) along the fire trail , these paths create a circuit around the cliff. The first will take you to the western wall, the second is 620 metres further along and up the fire trail will take you to the Entry Wall and the main climbing areas. Somone has also carved an arrow and "PP" near the second cairn, please don't carve anthing further into the trees!
At the second cairn follow this up to the ridge then veer right and down the scree along slope and follow the rough path down and along until you reach entry wall and the gold coast area.
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