Routes as trad in Queensland

Takes the crack revealed by the old rock fall right of Southern Comfort. Looks quite good until you look at the large rock only just held in by a tree root directly above it.

This route no longer exists as it fell to the bottom of the cliff. Description here for historic purposes.

A two-move wonder right off the ledge, but what a hell of a way to start the climb! Desperately thin moves to a stance, sigh of relief and gear, easily up the fist crack to finish. Should be more popular.

Complete crap. Overgrown, dirty and downright ugly moves up an even worse looking corner all make this one to put your best mate on!

Used to be grade 14, so it has seen more than its fair share of whimpering and battered beginner leaders. The route is excellent, and well worth a trip. Up the thin, widening crack R of GT. The crack tends to throw you off balance, but plenty of good feet help. Rest at a ledge before continuing directly up the cracks to a V-groove finish and rap anchor behind the top of the pillar.

No longer exists after the 2009 rockfall.

Not very good at all. Used to be a direct finish for GT. Loose rock and questionable gear are the name of the game, with a tricky and strenuous move to finish.

No longer exists after the 2009 rockfall.

False advertising at its worst. This route looks to be one of the most proud and stunning lines Frog. It isn't! The broken ramble to the corner then goes to a tricky corner problem with a seam for RPs etc on the L face. Most of the gear would hold...Maybe! The crack above is a bit of a light at the end of a very long, dark tunnel.

No longer exists after the 2009 rockfall.

The arete just R of Worthless. This route starts just to the L of the semi-detached pillar. Cool moves up the arete are quickly forgotten by looking at the very dodgy bolt. Easy moves up the corner to finish.

The wide groove that starts on the left side of the ledge 15m up Sabrasucker.

A flared and ugly looking groove directly above the pillar. From there blast up to a ledge, and then, with difficulty, up a crack full of chock stones.

Not bad but not one to plan your whole day around either. Climb the line R of DDE up a thin crack to a rest on a sloping ledge. From here up a flake and past a piton (hand sized cams essential).

Start at the small corner R of Sabrasucker. Bridge up this to a desperate little move onto the ledge. From here motor up one of the best and most pure cracks there is at Frog to the next ledge. It is best to get off here by stepping L through the chimney and rapping off as for Sabrasucker. If you must continue, add 20m, take off all the stars, lose all the enjoyment of the last 20m and thrash up some pretty ordinary climbing to the top.

Too many ledges, all directly below tricky moves. The climbing is long, confused and absorbing, but the number of hardish moves off ledges make this climb diabolical for someone just leading at the grade. Worth a lap if you're solid at 17.

A technical and risky climb, although the difficulties are not sustained. Up 'Phatang' for 3m, then desperately R to a ledge and hard mantle. Continue easily up for a while, until a short hard corner section gives your nerves a final jolt! Easily after that to the top.

A confused and dangerous variation of Delilah. Solo up the micro seam 2m L of Impulse, joining the line Delilah. Mantle the same hard move then R at the next ledges into a groove. Climb on and finish as for Delilah.

Weird climbing up the L side of Borderline 29 arete. Not bad but there are only a few short moves of class.

Rubbish! A choss-ridden, mank infested gardener's delight. The corner to the L of FA. Approach by climbing either of the last two routes, or rap in from the LLL belay tree.

A tricky start before the first gear up the twin cracks leads to a good rest at half height. Suck in large amounts of oxygen and prepare your already tiring muscles for the onslaught above! Blast straight up the line with fantastic protection and amazing moves the whole way. Balancy moves R to the ledge and rap chains keep the adrenalin flowing! It is possible to link Impulse and Borderline 29, straight up the L of the arete at the same grade.

A hernia-inducing beast, up the very thin line. RPs are essential to keep you from cratering. A bouldery start up a thin corner 2m L of LLL. A difficult mantle onto the ledge that Impulse finishes on (belay from here possible). If you are keen, motor up the corner and hand crack to the top of the pillar. Finish up LLL pitch 2!

A scene of several serious accidents over the past years. The second route ever climbed at the cliff.

1. An easy hand crack leads to the first of several ledges. Up the line of least resistance to a dark, tight v-groove. Up this with much grunting and difficulty. The gear in the groove is excellent, although it can be problematic to place due to the tight nature of the chimney and the positions you can get yourself into! Gear belay on top of the pillar.

2. Up the beautiful hand crack to a ledge system. Up easily to DBB.

Rap to the ground on two ropes, or stop at the Impulse anchor if required.

Absolute class. Step L off the pillar from the top of LLL pitch 1. Step out onto the blank face with quiet desperation and bowel rupturing exposure! Place a high runner in LLL to prevent a factor 2 flass. Up the line and arete in spectacular positions to an easy top out. The climb is up a semi-detached flake system, so placing cams is not recommended...falling on them could be quite exciting.

Gives you faith in the power of friction! Not a bad variant finish to LLL if you have already done 'Borderline 29' a few times! From the top of the same belay ledge/pillar, step into the smooth groove with a very thin crack in the back. Desperate friction bridging leads to a stance. Up the hand crack above to a spicy little sequence through the head wall above.

A great variant start to LLL. Much better moves than LLL but you still wind up in the disgusting V-groove of LLL. Start around the corner 3m R of LLL. Up the line above to join LLL at the base of the groove.

This climb is super contrived and hard to protect. The desperate line to the R of KSDS. I am taking the word of good climbers on this one, as I was too scared to even top rope it! It simply looks brutal, contrived and unpleasant.

The long groove 1m right of IP requires numerous crack masteries to get to the top! Up to the bulge, passing this on the R. From here up a long and desperate off-width like corner, stepping L at the top. Gear is adequate.

This beautifully named direct finish came from the title of a porno magazine. Up the face crack on the wall to the R of CTTE. This very bouldery climb features 1 bolt, and lots of panic. Was 25, but the only jug on the whole route decided to fall off!

A variation on PP. Hard and committing. Up PP to the rooflet at 15m. Swing out L and up the crack until it re-joins PP. The only real reason to do this route is so that you can have fun answering the question "what did you do today?".

The first half of this climb is quite difficult with a very acrobatic and strenuous crux. Above this is a pretty average crack that steps R around a rooflet. The final crappy groove can be avoided by climbing the L face.

A good variant finish for PP. A beautifully exposed arete just to the R of the final groove on PP.

Super contrived! Climb the wall in between PP and CE, with protection found in both of these climbs. Finish as described.

The first route ever climbed at Frog! Good bridging with adequate pro despite appearances. Excellent technical chimney climbing at the top as it narrows to a body crack. It helps to keep all your gear on a sling on your L hip! The first ascent actually skipped the top chimney by going L onto the face.

Extremely serious climbing up a very thin wall. This route goes up the faint line to the L of EP and is essentially a solo problem. Finish by traversing R along a diagonal seam back into EP. Small gear, good head space and a death wish are all essential ingredients for success!

Brilliant. A desperate little move out of the cave sees you to a stance. Blast up this to a difficult thin section at half height. Grunt up the top to the ledge. Constantly interesting with bombproof gear all combine to make this route deservedly popular!

The blunt arete right of EP. Potential for dead branch in rectum if you fall off the crux.

Start: Do first 2m of 'Egotistical Pineapple' then right onto the arete.

A brilliant beginner's lead. Start at the obvious corner 3m R of EP. Up this line on excellent gear to the ledge. Rap chains are found here. Alternatively, you can keep going up the twin crack system at grade 15.

Total crap. Straddle and hump the arete immediately R of PP, thrash awkwardly to the ledges. Good if you never ever want to have children!

Grunt and bridge up the dark corner to the R of PP. From there easily to the chains above PP. The climbing is good, but a little grunty. The gear is really good, but can be awkward and strenuous to place for a novice leader.

The route up the corner directly above PP. From the ledge you tend to stay in the R crack, and then easily to the top. Semi hanging belay off large tree to R.

A very short twin crack corner to a ledge stance. From there, ramble up the line of best rock and least vegetation.

This route is so short that it's very hard to justify uncoiling a rope and racking up. If you must, blast up the corner for about 2 moves!

What a complete waste of time, paper and oxygen! Yet another case of beard stroking bumblies at work. The vegetated outcrop on the L halfway down the scree slope.

The short line just left of The Root.

The tree root left of COC, described in 1968 as "one of the best routes around"

Really very good and deserves to be more popular. Originally done as a solo. The small dark wall to the left of COC offers enjoyable and classy face climbing. Yet another top rope candidate as the climbing should really not be missed. Take off a grade if you're tall!

Very popular, mainly due to the fact that it stays in the shade all day! Classy but technical climbing ascends the very obvious corner R of SOH. Excellent gear (if you have a number of fist-sized cams) with a slightly awkward and overhung crux. Up easily to DBB as you top out of the corner.

Up the crack on the R edge of the COC chimney. Climb this till it ends at a daunting overhang. Whack in a nest of gear and blast for the bolt (carrot) over a hard bulge for a move or two. Continue R and finish easily.

Solo up the face of the pillar to the left of OA up to a ledge and tree. It is best to get off there. If you must, climb the shallow seam just to the L of OA on very dodgy pro to the top.

The arête left of OA, one old carrot, #1 RP essential

Often nicknamed "Awkward Alley", to avoid the awkwardness, you will be climbing committing bridging and face moves. Climb a great hand crack corner to a flake at 3m... the straight forward climbing ends there. Blast up the wide and grunty crack to the ledge with a tree on the L. From here 3 lines are possible, using a combination of the left crack and middle arete moves is exciting and good climbing.

Halfway up OA, this short climb traverses R over the slab, under the block, and finishes up the arete (head L onto wall near the finish).

A classic of the chimney style and a must do if you're into that sort of thing. The dark chimney to the left of DWHP. A challenging lead for the novice climber. Despite reputation the climb offers good placements the whole way. Make sure to extend gear below large block (crux) at half height followed by a run out section if you don't have a #6 cam or big bro. 30 meters to top out.

Start just to the right of SA chimney. Up the arete and face following 3 carrots.

Stuart Camps and Gordon Bieske originally did the top crack in March 1983, called Runners are Nuts.

This wide and daunting crack has seen more than its fair share of aspiring leaders turned into a dribbling, pumped, senseless mass of despair! The gear is excellent, but make sure you take up plenty of big gear to protect this climb adequately. Without this protection, a ground fall is extremely probable. Lay back up the first crack on polished foot holds to a ledge at 6m. From here, thrash up the wide crack until it is possible to step R. Easily to the top.

Very difficult for the vertically challenged! Kick off the tree to get up the initial blank corner. A hard mantle onto a choss-filled ledge gains a rest. Up the cracked arete above.

An absolute must do for the aspiring hex-clanking, hemp rope-using, old school, lord of thrutch! The tight chimney to the LH of AS. A difficult move off the top of the pillar. Take big gear for behind the pillar and make sure to extend it also.

Up Lape to the top of the pillar (you have already been warned). Step R and up the arete, then good pro and moves in the crack above. The move off the pillar is hard and unprotected.

Start up the finger crack in the V-groove R of Lape, step off the top of the pillar, but continue out to the arete. Up this shaky affair past a roof to a ledge. Continue up and around R to finish. Absolutely desperate, with quite small and shallow gear at the crux!

The corner above the ledge. Not really a lot better than the original.

Quite risky and serious. Climb the tree R of NR until you can step onto the blank face above the bulge. Follow a thin pocketed seam until it ends, keep going R until a jug comes to hand. Mantle as for NR.

Death. Start at the arete just R of TFT. Climb past 2 bolts and a wire at the roof. From here, climb with tendon-rupturing brutality up the arete and wall past the gap where Rob removed the bolts, thereby returning the route to its original state. This was done to honour Rick White's dream of a bolt-free cliff.

The utterly contrived piece of junk to the L of A1. Step off the rock pedestal onto the arete. Climb the face, avoiding the crack, to the ledge above. Move R to a crack system and finish up the thin seam.

This climb is horrible. A very short, vegetation-filled off-width with loose rock and poor pro. If you decide to climb this, hit yourself really hard, and move on!

Grotty climbing on loose flakes makes this yet another death lead classic! Up the hollow flakes, with surprisingly ok gear to the ledge. Ascend the corner behind to the top.

A bit of a ramble up to a corner which has a few OK moves then make your way to a tree and rap or continue as for A1.

A blight on the face of the world. 10 sticks of dynamite could only assist in making this climb slightly better. The wide, loose, dark line, full of loose blocks and worse!

The orange arête between Non Compos Mentis and Self Expression. Start in NCM, nice moves up and diagonally R past a small triangular pedestal to gain a crack on the R wall, (alternatively, thrutch up the ugly offwidth). Hug the arête passing two BR's (crux) to another small pedestal (alien/TCU on R). Continue straight up the arête to finish R of the bulging rock on top. Chain on tree. 2 BR's, wires, SLCD's. A small alien or TCU in a thin slot makes the second half less dangerous/more sane. It fits a quadcam but not as well.

Truly insane climbing up a desperately thin seam. Wobble and shake and whimper your way up on good RPs, small wires and one crappy piton. Strenuous, technical and classy. This was an awesome and inspiring effort by Kim Carrigan.

The orange, shattered corner to the R of SE. Bush bash about 10m to the base of the route. Loose and often dirty, this route is quite demanding for the grade. Protection is ample; placing it is another thing.

A long and very popular series of corners and cracks. Decent gear all the way but if you're belaying be aware that there are several ledges that the leader could hit.

There are three choices of start to this route: the rightmost is the Direct Start (19) which takes the clean layback corner into the line.

The middle start goes up the crack 2m on the L which leads to a short chimney; this goes at 17.

The original route (14) starts 4m L up the line of least resistance. Blast up this to a ledge, and then thoroughly absorbing climbing up the overhanging chimney section.

Rap at trees and chain (2 ropes to get down, or 1 x 70m will suffice).

The left of the two direct starts.

Instead of climbing left of it, go straight up the almost perfect crack in the almost perfect corner. This used to be graded 17, but the thrashing feet of 10 thousand struggling leaders have reduced this to a spit polished sandbag.

A traverse from 'Electronic Flag' over to 'Fluid Journey'.

Brutal but amazing climbing up the searing corner R of EF. Up and L into the seam proper to a small stance. Blast up this to the ledge above. Completely unrelenting in the second half. Despite its appearances this route is well protected. Bring loads of small wires and cams.

A good second pitch to Paranoia. Climb the improbable and technical shallow seam directly above. There are some dodgy flakes on the face, beware! Join 'Wango Tango' (which comes in from the R), continue easily to the top.

Absolutely stunning climbing up one of the better lines on the entire cliff! This long and technical corner involves some of the most amazing bridging and lay backing there is. Be prepared for a run out crux. Finish up Piranha.

A direct finish to QC, or a fun variant finish for Insomnia. Instead of stepping R and climbing up the finish of Insomnia, climb the arete directly above the finish of QC passing 2 bolts. Bowel-rupturing exposure, and nice technical movement makes this climb well worth the trip.

A link up. Start at the corner 1m R of WH. Up the closed corner and into Piranha. Up the R crack of Piranha until it blanks out. From here, step R into Insomnia and up. There are better routes to do.

An amazing route that is a must do. Up the tricky start to a ledge. Step L into the bottomless chimney, doing some funky moves up the corner. A desperate bulge at the top of this groove provides loads of excitement, as well as the crux. Flop with much joy onto the ledge. Belay is possible here. A tricky move off the ledge gains a small crack which eases off very quickly. Up the obvious line above to a ledge and rap rings.

A variant finish to Piranha. It features quite nice climbing, but the rock quality is questionable in places. Off the ledge, climb Piranha until it steps L, and keep going out L across the wall. Breathe a sigh of relief when you reach the crack, bumble up above with great moves and gear.

One of the first 23s in Australia! Although previously downgraded, this route has lost none of its spice over the years. Up the brilliant V-groove with phenomenally classy bridging and face work, capped by a desperate mantle on to the ledge. From here, grunt up the classic off-width to an easy finish! Originally aided by Staszewski and Killop, they backed off realizing that a better climber might one day free this amazing line. All were stunned and inspired when it was freed by Henry Barber. The initial corner has a fair bit of loose feeling rock, take care.

Done by Coral Bowman (US) in 1976, when it was 21, likely the first female ascent at this grade in AU.

Quite good. Up the initial corner to a hard move onto a ledge. From here, thin locking and classic bridging bring the top to hand.

Climb Fluid Journey until possible to pull into Epic Journey at about half height. Dont traverse too low or you will end up in the crux of Epic Journey. Combines the easiest sections of both routes.

Brilliant, graceful and absorbing climbing up the twin cracks starting off the small ledge right of FJ. Some of the most elegant face climbing and layaway moves around. Step L into the single crack with joyous jamming and chimney moves above.

Wow! Start up the desperate corner R of EJ with crappy gear and a rusty piton playing head games with you as you stare it in the eye! If you fall in the first 15m, it is more than likely that you will deck out! Climb this to a stance. Up the desperately thin corner on imaginary holds, using scary and spacious protection to the top. Some good wires about half way up are the only real protection you get on the whole route. Quite a serious lead although it really does feature some excellent movement. Kim rapped this then did it first shot. Rather impressive.

Edit: A large section of rock at the bottom of the climb fell off the route in 2019.

A very hard route to protect well on lead. Start on the cracked arete, up this for a few moves and then out onto the R face. Quiver up the face on thin holds with RPs and flared token cam placements guaranteeing your concentration! A hard move on the arete moves the route to the L face and an excellent #3 RP. From there, flail up the face to where the obvious diagonal crack line leads R to a ledge. This crack is actually quite easy but feels relatively hard due to the fact that most climbers are pumped completely senseless by then! Follow this to a ledge, then easily up. Rap as for SIL.

If your arms are still capable of basic function, this should help to finish them off! The direct finish to GPC features classic climbing up a delicate arete. From where the crack goes R, head straight up the arete past a lone bolt. Run it out to the top.

Most people tend to onsight this route, due to the fact that a fall could be very nasty! Bridge up the completely blank corner, pretending that there are actually holds. Very desperate climbing past the two pitons. Not a climb for the faint hearted.

Death lead. Climb the blank corner to the R of HA, with what could best be described as "mind protection" for gear. Two manky pitons and RPs that look pretty are all you get. What is even more impressive is that Kevin put this up ground up - he tried it one day, it started raining so he downclimbed, came back the next day and did it. One of the most impressive first ascents in Australian climbing history.

This imposing line is on the wish list for many budding Frog-climbing gods! The stunning shallow corner swallows up RPs and micro cams. The upper section has two extremely thin and technical cruxes. Rap off the bolts.

Absolutely brilliant climbing, although possibly one of the most sustained routes here. Brilliant bridging up the open-book corner to the flake at the top.

Bridging, layaways and levitation are all required to get up this imposing, blank corner. At the top, step R to the tree. An Olympic rhythmic gymnast may be able to bridge across to WO; as for normal people, attempting this could destroy more than just your pants!

A very strenuous outing and an excellent section of flared hand jamming. The start has two options, both hard. You can start up CF for a few moves and then traverse in - possibly easier but less well protected. The direct start up the seam is nails but has good gear. Brilliant sustained climbing sees you to the tree on the ledge. Although Rob Staszewski and Rick McGregor attempted the route in various styles, it was up to Kim Carrigan to free the route by the direct.

This pump fest provides some of the best and most sustained crack climbing on the cliff. Blast up the unrelenting crack in the steep corner. The crux is unfortunately above a ledge at 2/3rd height with a good chance of hitting it, then easily to the top.

Tobin Sorenson did this in his sandshoes as his first route at the cliff.

Very nice! From the ledge at 2/3 height on CC, step R onto the arete. Super stylish moves and exposure past a bolt , and then into a small cracked corner at the top.

The direct start to IAM. Stick clip the first bolt, and step out to the arete from the start of 'Cock Corner'. Very thin and technical climbing up the arete past 4 bolts, finish up 'I'm a Mop'.

Marked by the initials "AA" for Artificial Aura, which was the climb's actual name (so named because it looked so ridiculously hard, but actually went quite easily). The route, however, had been named Cock Crack, and through the ages, no doubt due to Alzheimer's, alcohol and drug abuse, the names were swapped and Cock Crack was re-born! Climb the widening hand crack to a stance. Up the wide section by chimney moves or very classy and thin bridging to where the crack closes again. Motor up the brilliant crack and arete on super holds to finish. Big gear essential. Finish at the chains for Infinity.

The start is easier if you are tall. Climb boldly up the front of the wide crack to avoid the thrutch. From there, wander into the bottom of this 4-sided chimney, with the stars being given only for the unique style of climbing you are about to have thrust upon you! If you are into this sick perverted style of climbing, give it two more stars! Chimney or bridge up this to a ledge at the top. Continue up the R in another chimney, or alternatively on the face. Belay at the chains of Infinity. Big gear is not essential to adequately protect this route.

A contender for the best 19 in the country! The old school off-width is the only way to go for apprentice gruntologists. All the sane people start in the corner to the R. Up this past a tricky move out of a cave at 1/3 height to a stance (crux). From here, up the beautifully sculpted line to the top. Simply magnificent climbing. Rapping on a 70m rope will get you to the middle of the scramble at the base of the climb.

From the start of the diagonal on Infinity, step L up the face past 1 bolt. A scary and atmospheric little route.

Hard and committing. Start up the same line as for Infinity. Continue up to a ledge past a grunty fist crack. Suck in the big ones, attach your kamikaze head band, and thrash (screaming for glory) up the blank bulge with greasy little holds making life really interesting. There is no mention of gear here, because there is not much to be found. Whimper with joy and relief when the crack finally opens up for better gear and easier moves to the top.

Stunning quality, an absolute classic. Start on the ledge above and R of the start to Infinity. Steep jamming and locking leads to a pronounced crux rounding the bulge. Great gear, a little spaced at the crux, but completely bombproof. Finish easily up to the Infinity chains.