Routes as trad in Queensland

Start at 'Wedding Crashers'.

Old school climb which traverses L and R to find line of least resistance. Finishes up 'Exhilarant'.

Start as for 'Exhilarant'.

Clip the BR in the middle of the steep face on the L part way up 'Exhilarant'. Bridge L to ledges then straight up past 2 further BRs to top out.

Start up big corner 2m L of 'Hanger Wall Arete'. Marked "Ex".

Up the corner then finish up slab. Upgraded from the original grade of 16 by consensus.

Start 1m R of 'Chip-A-Holdaway'. Marked "A".

The original trad route. Up obvious corner (gear on left), then on up ledges to corner finish. Average protection at the start, can now be supplemented with the RBs on 'Anonymous DS' making it a good beginner trad lead.

Start 2m R of 'Anonymous', 1m R of 'Anonymous DS'.

Up shallow corner, then sharp arete, then ledges to top.

Start to the left of BO and follow the Arete up.

You can access the BO anchors for top rope by climbing down from the top of 'Anonymous'.

Start 2m L of 'Stoat Clips Bolts'. Marked "BO".

A different start to 'Pterodactyl', starting 1m R.

Only minimally different to the standard 'Pterodactyl' and traverses L to join the usual route at halfway.

"I only got interested in leading the FFA of this route because it makes me the only person I know who can claim to have freed a Hot Henry Barber top-rope problem!" (Mick Woodrow)

This is a link-up that crosses Pterodactyl and Honed and Buffed. Climbs the face of Pterodactyl (not either of the aretes) for first 3 bolts. Series of thin and balanced holds. Then step right off the ledge onto the face. 1 small bomber nut in the obvious crack for pro. Then up and across face. Up the last 2 bolts of Honed and Buffed to anchors.

Start 1m R of 'BARFJ'. Marked "MF".

One of the few good natural lines at 'KP'. It is a shame that the upper layback crack was halved when the council decided to renovate in the mid 1990s by dynamiting it off! Neil Monteith added the new bolted finish when the dust settled.

Up pockets to small roof, then up layback crack on L to halfway ledge. Straight up past RB to crack. Either top out or use BARFJ anchors just L.

Start as for 'Moonlight Fantasia'.

At small roof, head straight up face to halfway ledge avoiding layback crack on L. From ledge finish as for 'Moonlight Fantasia'.

Start as for 'Moonlight Fantasia'.

From halfway ledge climb crack 2m R to top.

Start at 'By Ignorance'.

Not really a traverse but an easy L-tending scramble up to the 'Bufo Marinus' anchors. Often soloed to set up a top rope on 'Bufo Marinus'.

Start 1m R from the 'Bufo Marinus' arete. Marked "BI".

Up to halfway ledge at base of slab. Up slab to layback crack, then up this, R around bulge and top out.

Start as for 'By Ignorance'.

At the halfway ledge, traverse R 2m and climb up the middle of the slab to the top. No protection.

Start 2m R of the usual 'By Ignorance' start.

Straight up drill hole to halfway ledge, then up the corner at the R edge of the slab. Very bold.

Start as for 'Adam's Rib'.

From the large ledge two-thirds of the way up, climb up the corner instead of the arete.

Start at the massive "AR" mark.

Climb up the corner and face then on up to the large ledge with the corner two-thirds of the way up. From here climb the arete on the R to the top.

Start 1m R of the usual 'Adam's Rib' start.

Climb up the slippery face to join 'Adam's Rib' at the corner.

Start 2m R of 'Adam's Rib', where the "$♂" (dollar-man, get it?!) is painted about 4m off the ground.

Up the hard slots (wires) then finish up the 'Adam's Rib' arete.

Traverse. Start up 'Pocket Calculator' to 3rd bolt, then step left for 365m to finish up at 'The Olos Slab'. A fun day out, but really why would you unless you have a lot of time on your hands?

Start 3m L of 'Bird Dance For Shiva'.

Up the ledges then the loose corner to top.

Start 2m L of 'Bird Dance For Shiva'.

Up the ledges, traverse R and finish up the slab clipping the BR. Much harder than its official grade of 15.

The original trad line heads R after 1st bolt, finishing up arête & corner.

Start 2m L of 'Stonehinge'. Marked "BO".

Hard for the grade.

Start 5m L of 'Mantlit'. Marked "D".

Contrived.

Start behind jacaranda tree, 3m L of 'Moonlight Dilemma'. Marked "COD".

Up just R of bolts on 'Play School' and top out.

Start 1m L of 'Spidermonkey'.

Up onto the ledge and clip the RB. Climb the nice finger crack to the start of the slab at halfway. Up the slab clipping 2 RBs and finish at the DBB.

Start at 'Spidermonkey'.

Nice beginner trad lead with good pro following the crack just R of 'Spidermonkey'. Finish at the 'Spidermonkey' DBB. Named after KP's well-known mascot - Proude's dog, Tash. (T.A.S.H)

Start at the arete about 10m L of 'Piles'. Marked "A".

Fun easy trad route. Up onto ledge with the big manky crambling crack. Head out right and up for a few fun moves over crappy gear around the 'roof' thing. Head right to belay off the fence near the top of the stairs. You could also do a dodgy traverse carefully to the anchor on 'White Dopes On Punk'.

Direct start to 'Cox's Corner' up the overhung layback. The pins give good fixed protection.

Start in corner 3m L of 'Pseudo-Cox'. Faintly marked "CC".

Climb awful face past a number of pins. From here the climb originally traversed L to corner and tree then upward to more wire netting. Now the tree has grown so large you'd be doing well to make it that far. Probably not worth the effort.

Start 2m L of 'Cox's Overhang'. Marked "PsC".

Up to ledge, traverse right and up corner to wire netting.

Chipped boulder start to 'Cox's Overhang', 1m L of usual start.

Start 2m L of 'Piles'. Marked "CO".

Follow shallow corner to under overhang, slinging the pin on the way. Place some gear then climb the overhang on its R side. Solo up the slabby arete to top.

Start 2m L of 'Piles', right near 'Cox's Overhang'. Marked "CD". Start up CO, cross Piles and finish up CE.

Contrived traversing.

Start at the broken holds in front of the sign, just right of Piles & left of Cox's Edge. Thin moves to a very high first bolt (carrot), NOT using the big ledges out right. Up the face to gain the small ledge 7-8m up, standing on this, big reach to clip first bolt, more thin moves up to a big ledge & bomber trad gear (small cams), up flake (more gear: offset nuts + ballnuts), to high 2nd bolt, then top-out to Piles anchors.

Start 2m R of 'Piles'. Marked "CE".

Up slabby arete. Minimal protection.

Seems to have become lost in the jungle to the R of 'Short Wall'. Supposedly marked "AC".

Up obvious slab, climbing the line of least resistance to top out.

Scramble the big ledge staircase, top out through obvious corner.

Up the flat smooth corner just before the arete. No touching the big ledges on the left. Top out over the face to your right, between the vegetation.

Start 10 m right. Up arête on right side using good holds all the way. Avoid the swing around the left side of the arête. Anchor from 2nd and 3rd balusters.

Start 2 m right. Scramble to crack in wall. Up this with nice protection to top out. Anchor from 3rd and 4th balusters

Start 3 m right. Shallow corner then traverse left and easy to top.

Start 4 m right. Delicately up to nose (BR). Over this small roof to protection in the horizontal crack. Reach jug and easy finish. Anchor from baluster 5.

Start 1 m right. Wandering line of least resistance to the corner and finish up this to top out. Anchor from baluster 6 and 7.

Start 4 m right. Climb corner to below arête. Easily up this to top. Anchor from balusters 6 and 7.

Start 1 m right. Up slab to ledges and top out. Anchor from baluster 8.

Start 2 m right. The line of least resistance up the easy ledges. Anchor from baluster 9.

Start 5 m right. Same start as for climb #11. Trend left then up seam on small pockets to top.

Start 3 m right. Up the overhung arete to stance. Continue up an easy wall to a crack in the headwall. Finish easily up this.

Start 4 m right. Up the corner to below the big roof. Traverse right to crack and force overhang above to jugs and easy finish.

Start 2m right of fourteen. Mantle slab start to ledge. Place a hex and smear up from the crack leftward up to second ledge. Plenty of pro options here before left up and over small overhang to find carrot bolt. Easy up and top out from here.

Start 2m right of fifteen. Straight up the slab to the large ledge. There are two carrot bolts here, (good for top belay or multi pitch practice). Straight up from here to easy but chossy top out.

Pure Choss. Rack your gardening tools.

The further right you go, the easier it gets.

Trend right, then up when standing on flake

Up the wall to left of FG.

Marked LL. Originally graded 16. Original grade accurate if taller than 7ft. Up obvious flake past committing deadpoint/dyno and straight up to anchor

As tall as a route here can be. Don't let the offwidth deter you, it's much easier as a face climb without engaging the crack.

Arete left of slab. Up to horizontal slot

Starting from tree, follow horizontal crack right and up

Sketch. Up the middle face. Preplace Cam from withing crack if you're going for this

Marked CT. Bring your secateurs as you do some gardening in the left leaning weakness

Sweet and hard. A boulder problem with cams, up the middle

Marked A. Originally graded 22, but it depends on your height. If taller than 6'4, subtract 5 grades

Harder if you're short.

Nice little trad climb. May be a nice beginner lead

Unconventional. A sport climb with no bolts! hang a 60cm runner from the anchor to protect the top section

Obvious corner right of overhang. Up corner and then slab.

The obvious 10m wide crack 15m left of the arête of 'Parasite Drag'. The wide upper half is protectable by RP's, if you don't have big gear larger than a #6. After the initial difficulties, scramble up over blocks to decent fig tree. Take care with the loose rocks.

Hard to stay out of Noose! Thin climbing up the arete. Up a short crack to the ledge, the piton fell out years ago, luckily small wires provide adequate pro. Tricky moves lead to the fixed hanger. Finish direct up a small corner.

The main crack splitting the pillar with a right trending diagonal. The difficulties lie in the first diagonal section, and getting established in the crack. The body crack can be avoided by climbing the face to the left.

Not the best climb at Frog! Climb the second crack right of Noose to a small ledge. From there go straight up with a desperate mantle to finish. Belay at the small tree.

Go up the twin edged corner to a stance on the large ledge. From there, strenuous jamming up the left facing corner to another ledge. Then easily to the rap chain.

Brilliant! A sustained and somewhat committing climb with a number of technical sequences. Start up EK and step R off the ledge to the FH. Continue up past a second FH and then run it out a long way to a piton under the right side of a tiny rooflet (can be backed up with a green Alien). From there, step left and up the obvious crack to finish.

Good face climbing but close to MP. A strenuous start up the thin seam just right of PT leads to a good stance. Up shallow corner and arete (crux) to finish up the widening crack. On the FA Kim did it on the gear in the seam, but it's easy - and much more sane - to lean across R and place a cam in MP before the crux.

A classic introduction to the fine art of hand jamming. A good safe lead if you are new to Frog. Climb the obvious crack to the right of DF, to where the crack ends. Step right and finish easily up the chimney. DRBB.

A good safe introduction to Frog at the grade. Climb the line R of MP past a shallow cave. Tricky moves around this lead to a chimney to the ledge. Most people finish the route at the rap chain on the ledge but you can continue up in the V-groove for another 6m to the top (not as much fun).

Makes a good second pitch to either of the two preceeding routes. Step warily off the ledge onto the right wall with a crescent moon shaped crack (watch the factor 2 fall off the ledge). Proceed up with much joy, and even more exposure!

A lot scarier now that the 1st piton has fallen out. Start up EL, but step R out of the cave, and up to a stance at a bolt (Hanger is missing). Go up to the eerie piton hole (gear possible), and continue up the arete to the second piton. Finish directly up the nose.

A great warm up climb. Climb the left wall with great hands and pro in the back of the off-width to 10m. Then at roof go out and up using left wall again. Good stance on top of pillar, more good gear and another off-width section to the top of this next section. Use a tree not far back from the top of the route.

Start up SAW, step left and up onto a ledge. From here either scramble off R, or finish up the easy corner of IB. Not very good.

Short but good. An interesting chimney and jamming problem featuring great protection throughout. A tricky move to exit adds spice to life!

Complete crap with a large ledge below very poor pro. If the kamikaze in you must do this, go up the ledges left of WA, and do a layback sequence up the friable flakes to the ledge.

A great little climb and a good introduction to sustained bridging. The obvious corner left of Tardis. A hard 1st move gets you to a stance. From there, keep going with constant surprises to the top. Excellent gear throughout.

Contrived to say the least. Climb the arete to the right of WA past a bolt runner, without stepping into either of the surrounding climbs. There are far better routes to be climbed!

Solid for the grade. Up the steep little corner, then take the left of the 2 grooves from the stance at 1/2 height. Be wary of filthy, loose exit.

Horrible. Looks a lot better than it is. The wide flake and crack to the left of Century.

A nice jamming session with excellent gear, starting out with hands and finishing with easy off width onto the ledge.

A bold lead. Thin, strenous and poorly protected moves feature throughout this route up the face just right of Century. This was graded 17 but if you go directly up the face it's easily 21. Maybe some holds have come off, it's not the best rock, and the gear is very poor. Easily toproped off the chains though.

Yet another case of putting a route up just to get your name in the guide! The climb steps left at the ledge after RK corner, and has one hardish move to the chain on the tree. Good for a change of scene.

Absolute class! This fine sweeping corner is one of the best routes on the cliff. The climb offers magnificent bridging and laybacking, with strenuous thin hand jams and locks just to make your day! Superb protection the whole way settles the nerves... a little!

Barely separate climbing R of RK. On clipping the bolt, step down and R, then up on this flakes and holds to the top. Place pro in RK to keep it sane.

OK climbing up a steeper than expected line. 2 possible starts both feature poor rock and protection. Coming in from the left up past the hollow flakes and the rooflet or up the grotty corner to step in from the R on good holds. From here, up a crack system basically formed from wedged rocks. Not recommended to lead this.