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Description

A tall, partly overhanging boulder with a large crack at its lefthand end and a staghorn fern perched on top.

Access issues inherited from Toohey Forest

'Toohey Forest' is owned by the Brisbane City Council. It's an important habitat for 400 plants and animals, and is very popular with walkers, joggers and picnicking families. Therefore the usual rules of taking out your rubbish, keeping noise to a minimum and so on are particularly important here if climbing is to remain an acceptable activity in the eyes of the community.

Approach

Just right of the 'Mantle Boulder'.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V3 * Left of crack Boulder

SDS left of crack on slopers and smaller holds without using crack

2
V0- Large Crack Boulder

Up the crack, if you're bored add a grade by purely jamming it.

3
V4 Left of ferns Boulder

Start at arête to the R of 2 and straight up, then slightly to L of fern

4
V8 ** Butter Me Up Boulder

Start on low pocket, trending right and up. To climb the original V8 line, avoid the chipped pocket to the left.

5
V1 Warm Up Boulder

Juicy holds, and chipped holds over the high mantle.

6
V3 * Pustekuchen Boulder 4m

Sit Start in the middle of the boulder with left hand on a full hand pinch and right on a small pocket, push up and latch to the next pocket above followed by an array of nice pockets to choose on your way to the top.

7
V4 ** Cobb loaf Boulder

Straight up R arête using sharp cobbly holds and pockets, then throw to lip and mantle

8

Start on Cobb Loaf, traverse L across the wall all the way into Left of Ferns, top this out.