A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Brendan Heywood kenny Iain Hunter Tom Reid Jack Kilsby Peatey Jack Alec Wright Thomas Gissing Neil Jenman
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Area C
33 in Area
- 1.1. Highball Boulder 1 in Boulder
- 1.2. Above the mantle boulder 3 in Boulder
- 1.3. Mantle Boulder 4 in Boulder
- 1.4. Large Crack Boulder / Boulder F 9 in Boulder
- 1.5. Boulder K 4 in Boulder
- 1.6. L Boulder 3 in Boulder
- 1.7. Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon / Boulder J 9 in Boulder
- 2. Index by grade
1. Area C 33 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -27.539694, 153.045933
description
A cluster of boulders: the 'Mantle Boulder', the 'Large Crack Boulder' and 'Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon'.
access issues
'Toohey Forest' is owned by the Brisbane City Council. It's an important habitat for 400 plants and animals, and is very popular with walkers, joggers and picnicking families. Therefore the usual rules of taking out your rubbish, keeping noise to a minimum, cleaning any chalk marks and so on are particularly important here if climbing is to remain an acceptable activity in the eyes of the community.
approach
Continue along the contour from 'Chockstone Wall' for about 100m.
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1.1. Highball Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
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1 |
8 project
High ball |
1.2. Above the mantle boulder 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -27.539594, 153.045886
description
Small boulder located above the mantle boulder in Area C in the Main Area at Toohey Forest. As of August 2021 will benefit from more brushing.
history
Added to The Crag with 3 problems in August 2021 by Jack Mullaly. No sign it had ever been cleaned before but surely given it's proximity to other classic climbs someone must have tried it before.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
Around the corner
Right hand sidepull on face. Left hand on jug around corner. Feet on low jugs on face. Head up trending left around arete. | V0 | ||||||
2 |
★ The natural way of things
Both hands on chest high undercling. Left hand as gaston. Right hand as undercling. Left foot on low jug. Right foot flagging. Straight up. | V3 | ||||||
3 |
Embody the frog
Left hand on good undercling. Right hand out wide for sidepull. Feet kinda pinching on low vertical edge. Straight up. | V1/2 |
1.3. Mantle Boulder 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -27.539622, 153.045885
description
A boulder with nice slopey holds, particularly on the top out mantle.
approach
The first boulder you come to in the 'Area C' cluster. Just left of the 'Large Crack Boulder'.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ Left Arete
Standing start on L arête. L hand on good sloper, smear R foot, reach for crappy L sloper and up and slightly to the L for top out. | V1 | 3m | |||||
2 |
★ Mantle
Standing start straight up on crappy slopers for interesting mantle. Sit start at V4. | V3 | 4m | |||||
3 |
★ Nice Slopers
Standing start straight up on nice holds and slopers for mantle. | V2 | 4m | |||||
4 |
★ Blunt
Sit start up R arête. | V2 | 3m |
1.4. Large Crack Boulder 9 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -27.539679, 153.045945
description
A tall, partly overhanging boulder with a large crack at its lefthand end and a staghorn fern perched on top.
approach
Just right of the 'Mantle Boulder'.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ Left Of Crack
SS left of crack on slopers and smaller holds without using crack | V3 | 4m | |||||
2 |
★ Large Crack
Up the crack, if you're bored add a grade by purely jamming it. | V0- | 4m | |||||
3 |
★ Left of Left of Ferns
Stand start in between Left of Ferns and the crack using the only holds that work. Stay off the rock left of the crack. Surprisingly good and independent climbing. | V2 | 3m | |||||
4 |
★★ Left of ferns
Sit start on BMU pocket. Up L on pockets then hard moves on poor holds straight up rounded arête to top out L of fern. One for a cold winter arvo. FA: Kenny Walker, 2002 | V6 | 4m | |||||
5 |
★★ Butter Me Up
Sit-start on low pockets. Powering straight up and veering right, leads you to an easy mantle out. An exceedingly popular face-climb! FA: Rob Appleby | V6 | 4m | |||||
6 |
★ Warm Up
Juicy holds, and chipped holds over the high mantle. | V1 | 4m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★★ Pustekuchen
Sit Start in the middle of the boulder with left hand on a full hand pinch and right on a small pocket, push up and latch to the next pocket above followed by an array of nice pockets to choose on your way to the top. | V3 | 4m | |||||
8 |
★ Cobb Loaf
Stand start: Straight up R arête using sharp cobbly holds and pockets, then throw to lip and mantle. ~V3 Sit start: Start with good low left hand side pull, and right hand pinch up high. Bump up to slopey break, and up from there. | V4 | 4m | |||||
9 |
Brisbane Bitter Traverse
Start on Cobb Loaf, traverse L across the wall all the way into Left of Ferns, top this out. Not sure if this was ever actually sent (Simon Moses?). Cracking hard problem. | V8 |
1.5. Boulder K 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -27.539696, 153.046013
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
The Vee Four Sitstart
There’s a sitstart on the left part of the face that’s about a 4. | |||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★ Feel Good Traverse
Traverse from left to right. Start with hands on RH side pull, traverse your way about 2/3rds of the way up before topping out. Feels like a V0-V1 Be careful getting down! FA: Unknown | V1 | 5m | |||||
3 |
★★ Feels Like Holidays
Sit start, left hand in the break. Straight up the arete. Pleasant moves, taller than your average Toohey V0. Enjoy the view at the top, then downclimb the way you came up. | V0- | 3m | |||||
4 |
★ Cool, Calm and Carefree
Stand start with RH gaston and LH on nice sidepull flake. This is directly opposite 'Cobb Loaf', about a metre in from the arete. Traverse the length of the boulder, generally keeping hands below the lip, finally topping out just before reaching the arete at the top of the gully. Relaxed climbing, a good technical warmup. | V0 | 3m |
1.6. L Boulder 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -27.539727, 153.045861
approach
Small boulder just downhill from the 'Mantle Boulder', left of the 'Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon' boulder.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★ Sickle
Using large holds and good foot hold for throw to the top. Sit start variation with left hand on the crecent hold and righ foot around the arete goes at V1. | V0 | 2m | |||||
2 |
★ Grumpy
Straight up slab face near arete | V0- | ||||||
3 |
Slobby
Straight up slab face | V0- |
1.7. Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon 9 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -27.539752, 153.045883
approach
Just downhill from the lefthand end of the 'Large Crack Boulder'.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★ Cooper's Sparkling Traverse
Start on obvious jug of Crouching Tiger. Traverse R along slopes and pockets into start of Hidden Dragon, then up that problem. | V5 | ||||||
2 |
★ Crouching Tiger ??
Start in the middle on some pockety side pulls, traverse slightly left on jugs and straight up to mantle. Sit start on a few nice crimps for a few more moves at the same grade. | V2 | ||||||
3 |
★ Hidden Dragon
Low start on arete, Big throw to a Slopey jug at the lip or some fiddly moves on crap holds and then up to same, then up and mantle on slopers. | V3 | ||||||
4 |
★ Unnamed
R of HD, around backside. Tricky first move then, up and mantle. As of late August 2021 the problem wasn't well described and there wasn't a topo hence no one quite knew if they were on the right problem so here's an attempt at a description and topo. Stand start. Right hand sidepull eye height jug. Left hand and feet as required. Head up. | V1 | ||||||
5 |
★ Mushi-atsui
Sit start. Right hand low on good crimp. Left hand relatively high on small pinch. A strong pull up to get off the ground then find your way to the top. Set: Jack Mullaly, 31 Aug 2021 FA: Iain Hunter, 26 Jan 2023 | V3 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
Beginner sit start 1
Sit start. Both hands on good edge (belly height when standing). Left foot on low small edge. Right foot smear. Pull on and head straight up. | V0 | ||||||
7 |
Beginner sit start 2
Sit start. Left hand sidepull. Right hand as required. Feet find low edges. Pull on and head straight up. | V0 | ||||||
8 |
★ Beginner sit start 3
Sit start. Hands on jug in crack. Feet on good edge. Pull on and straight up. | VB- | ||||||
9 |
★ Beginner sit start 4
Sit start. Hands on jug in crack. Right foot low and right on good angled edge. Pull on and straight up. | VB |