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Description

* PLEASE NOTE * climbing is banned here between August and January due to nesting of peregrine falcons.

Ten minutes further along the track from Kambah Rocks, Red Rocks is a well-bolted sport area providing great opportunities for leading. Note that many of the anchors are set below the top of the cliff because of the loose scree at the top - for this reason, it is not particularly ideal for top-roping. Like Kambah Rocks, the area can get fairly dirty, and given the angular nature of the rock and often fairly small holds, that can make life quite interesting if you haven't bothered to clean your prospective climb beforehand.

There are a number of parking options - Kambah Pool, nearby land or even at Pine Island if you want a longer walk. Note that there have been cars broken into at Kambah Pool.

The cliff itself can be found at google map coordinates -35.40888,149.034246

Climbs are described left to right.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 Ingrid Bergmann Sport 10m, 4

Originally graded 14, this is/was the easiest route on the crag. The farthest left route, trending rightwards towards the top to a lower off.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2007

2
20 Milla Jovovich Sport 12m, 5

Originally graded 14, this is the second route from the left. Trends left after the first few metres, then straight up to a lower off.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2007

3
14 Corner Crack Trad

Some natural pro required - take small wires and cames. Trends leftward up to a walk off. Watch yourself on the slippery stuff up top!

4
Listerine (project Justin) Sport Project 15m, 6

Closed project, bolted in 2007. Shares a lower-off with Wide World of Sports. Up the arete.

5
23 Wide World of Sports Sport 15m, 5

Shares a lower off with Listerine. First route climbed on the crag.

FA: Mike Peck, Simon Carter, 1991

6
Open Project Sport Project 8

Bolted by Chris - waiting for a first ascencionist with fingers of steel.

7
Project (Justin) Sport Project 15m, 8

Closed project. Up the corner.

FA: 2012

8
25 Little Bad Girl Sport 15m, 9

Up the arete.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

9
25 Heaven Sent Honey Sport 15m, 9

Up LBG, then branch out right onto the face.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

10

Originally finished about half height but now extended by Andrew Bull to give full value climbing up the centre of the crag.

FA: Tony Barten, Andrew Bull, 1991

FA: Andrew Bull, 2011

11
26 ** Dial M for Monkey Sport 25m, 11

Up Beautiful and Bald Like Barden to half height, then break out diagonally right through roofs to lower-off.

FA: Chris Warner, 2011

12
25 Crashing Clouds Sport 10

Up SA arete to 2/3 height. Traverse left then up sidepulls to lower-off.

FA: Chris Warner, 2011

13
25 Separation Anxiety Sport 25m, 9

Start to the right of the largest white patch on the wall. Up face and arete, then through hard moves to lower-off.

FA: Andrew Bull, 2010

14
23 Mills and Boon Sport 30m, 9

A long route with hard moves the whole way - like all of this area, the climb suffers from some loose blocks and quite a bit of dirt after it's been raining. Start on the small ledge below the small and shallow chimney. Climb the chimney to the ledge at 6 metres. Tend left through the steep area, to lower off just below the top of the cliff.

FA: Peter Mills, John Fantini, 1992

15
21 *** Arga Noah Sport 28m, 10

One of the best routes at the grade in Canberra. Start in the corner moving left under a little roof then up the blunt arête and onto small ledges to chain at the top.

FA: Chris Warner, 2011

16
23 Twilight Sport 20m

Start as the same for Arga Noah but move right under the overhang with a hard move to the lip of the ledge, continue straight up to chains.

FA: Chris Warner, 2012

17
22 Straight Edged Emo Sport 18m, 7

Start up Carp Attack then head up the arete (left variant) to finish at chains shared with Carp Attack.

FA: Justin Ryan, Adam Robens, 2007

18
22 Carp Attack Sport 18m, 6

Well protected and easy through the lower part, then a few good harder moves above. Heads right where Straight Edged Emo goes straight up the arete.

FA: Mike Peck, C Patrick, 1992

19
24 ** Spank You Very Much Sport 25m, 10

Easy up through the blocky section to a ledge then technical climbing on the vertical face.

FA: Chris Warner, 2013

20
22 ** Waters Of Chaos Sport 30m

Great climbing. Start climbing up easy to the ledge. Can be finished here at 16. Continue up the face on good holds with fun crux moves.

FA: Chris Warner, Clinton Szady, 2012

21
20 * Instant Inches Sport 30m, 10

Tricky sections of climbing separated by easy climbing. Starts at the vague left facing arete. Be careful of tumbling blocks off this climb.

FA: Andrew Bull, Tony Barten, 1991

22
18 * Red Sorghum Sport 20m, 8

Start in a short, left facing corner. Traverse diagonally right up the slab then head straight up following the bolts.

FA: Mike Peck, Brogan Bunt

23
22 * The Long Goodbye Sport 20m, 8

Start at the fin, boulder to the ledge and then head straight up the face. A slung cam might help protect the runout bit off the first ledge. Finish at lower off for Red Sorghum. Optional #1 friend.

FA: Mike Peck, Brogan Bunt, 1992

24
20 * Tahini Sport 28m, 11

Boulder to the ledge, then up the steep wall. Squirm into a short corner, mantle the ledge then step right and join the end of Bosch Imperialist up to the lower-off.

FA: Mike Peck, John Stone, Ken Luck, 1991

25
20 * Bosch Imperialist Sport 28m, 12

Start off the boulder and 'slide' up the smooth grey wall to the ledge. Up the funky corner and steep wall to a good stance, then mantle leftwards onto ledge. Keep stemming upwards then grunt and yet another mantle onto the top ledge. Finish at lower off.

FA: Mike Peck, Ken Luck, John Stone, 1991

26
24 ** In the End Zone Sport 25m, 11

Shares a start with three other lower grade climbs, following the obvious blunt arete at the right end of the cliff. The route originally climbed through the ledge to the end of Bosch Imperialist, if you want to finish that way.

FA: Tony Barten, Andrew Bull, 1991

27
18 Willy Wonka Sport 15m, 6

Same start as all the far-right hand climbs, then up to the chains under the roof.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2006

28
16 Willie The Pooh Sport 15m

Climb The Little Unknown from the shared starting point of the far-right climbs, then stop at the chains before the overlap.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2006

29
19 ** The Little Unknown Sport 30m, 10

Climb Willie the Pooh, heading right before the chains. Hard through the overlap and of reasonable length.

FA: Unknown

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