Robin Falls Mostly sport climbing

12 routes in crag

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Summary

2WD access and nice swimming between/after climbing.

Description

BEWARE: SOME OF THE CLIMBS HERE ARE BOLTED WITH SMALL AND SHORT EXPANSION BOLTS. THE BOLTS ON "TWISTED SLAB" ARE ALSO RUSTY.

RE-BOLTING PLANNED

Generally good quality sandstone, with small holds and good friction. Loose rock abound the top and bases of some climbs.

Approach

Easy 10min walk. Follow track to Robin Falls, go straight up when you come across a big rock/boulder on right hand side of track.

Where to stay

Free camping

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 Squirrel Slab Sport 23m, 6

Low angle black slab on opposite side of creek from majority of other climbs. Standing below "Tree Hugger" look across the creek for large black slab, cross creek and make your way up through the scrub. Start's very delicately to first bolt, have your belayer spot you. Route follows a rising left leaning traverse on delicate holds. Some of the rock is average quality so care must be taken. Head straight up to last bolt. Runout between 4th and 6th bolt.

FFA: Jason McCarthy and Jenna Brady, 2012

2
19 * Gold Hangers Sport 8m, 3

The lowest climb close to the water on RH side of creek. Takes the right hand slabby face with a thin seam up it's centre. Chain lower off.

3

Obvious imposing corner/roof crack. Left of Goldhangers.

4
17 * The Only Way is Up Trad 10m

Start as for 'The Bulge', then follow crack to left. Possibly one of the most underclimbed and under-rated climbs here.

5
23 The Bulge Sport 7m, 6

Right and up from Goldhangers. Starts pleasantly enough to first RB, interesting move left to base of super thin bulging wall with vertical crack to left. Route follows bolt line avoided crack to left. 2RBB

6

Keep moving up and right and you will come to a black slab with a low angle scramble to your left. Cheeky start to easy stance and BR. Thought provoking crux and next BR to gain quartz flake. Easily up from here. Popular first lead. Chain lower off.

7
18 Deputy Head Sport 25m, 6

Start easily through choss to base of slab with FH over lip. Pull onto face and follow left line of RB's. Tenous and off balance crux move to large flake. Easily up to left side of overhang, traverse right to finish. 2RBB

8
17 * Tree Hugger Sport 24m, 7

Start easily up through choss to base of slab with a FH over lip. Then straight up on small but adequate holds to FH on right. Tricky and technical moves onto upper face, squeeze underneath tree without using it and finish in small alcove. Chain lower off.

9

Start as for 'Tree Hugger', traverse right in super exposed postion then up. Interesting move over small overhang gains face and crack. 2RBB

10

Twisted and seemingly featureless slab has tricky start. Easily recognizable by looking for white quartz veins on slab, on left side of valley.

RUSTY EXPANSION BOLTS

11
14 Social Worker Sport 25m, 6

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