Showing all 51 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Peak hill | |||||
Walk On By
Walk on by because there's much better climbing just up the hill. Climb mostly right side up slot on edges and very dirty rock, offwidth technique not necessary. From original open project description of climb: Might have some trouble with crash-pads due to the slope of the ground. Plenty of opportunity for gear and-or top-rope from the tree at the top of the crack. FFA: Sam J, 20 Jun 2021 | 4m | ||||
Traverse project
Open project. Sit-start right with a two-handed sloper-rail. Track feet across a series of interesting heel and toe hooks to partially circumnavigate the boulder moving left (against the force of gravity). Top-out after the arete having finished swinging about near the floor. | |||||
12 | ★ Fig jam
A short and fun hand crack that has some good placements in solid rock. A good option for trad beginner, top-rope or done as a high-ball boulder with ample space at the bottom for mats and spotter. FFA: Warwick Davis, 26 Oct 2020 | 6m | |||
Crack project
Open crack project. A series of single pitch lines on a reasonably exposed slabby block. Looks like a lot of fun with a reasonable trad placements and/or trees for the top-rope included. | |||||
Play Pen Main Wall | |||||
23 | ★★ Plasmodium
| 14m, 6 | |||
21 | ★★ Psoriasis
This climb is often top-roped and is a fine, technical and sustained route. Climb the line 1mtr left of the arete, using a few desperate lay-aways off the arete. Top out at the DBB. Set: Phil. Y & Paul Smith, 2000 | 14m, 7 | |||
13 | Malaria
Start on the belay boulder and climb the atmospheric arete which has thought provoking moves. Pass 4 bolts to top-out at the Siriosis DBB FFA: Paul Wright, 1996 | 14m, 5 | |||
15 | New Day
Stand on the block and commit to the wall. FFA: Paul Smith, 2000 | 15m, 3 | |||
18 | ★★ Snapper back off
FFA: Glen Mollenhaur, 2000 | 12m, 5 | |||
10 | ★ Dynamo Hum
Climb the wide manky crack and finish by scrambling up the gully. FFA: Paul Wright, 1996 | 10m | |||
19 | ★ Special Education
A great line which has the most unique hold at Playpen being "the nose or beard". Commonly climbed as sport it was originally climbed with a nut/cam placement between the 2nd & 3rd bolt in the left variation of Camarello Brillo crack. Missing the 3rd clip would result in a ground fall. | 12m, 3 | |||
14 | ★ Camarello Brillo
Good rock, all natural gear. The line follows 3 seperate cracks, the middle one taking you diagonally right. Top out at S.E DRBB. FFA: Amanda Bailey | 12m, 1 | |||
13 | ★★★ Unknown
Good warm up and beginner route. As with Special Education, originally climbed with nut placement between 2nd and 3rd bolt in the right variation of Camarello Brillo. | 10m, 3 | |||
8 | ★ The cat in the hat
Good gear and easy moves. Good beginner climb. Start just left of the tree and work your way up the crack and corner system. Several exit variants. Take care of loose blocks. FFA: Paul Wright, 1996 | 12m | |||
8 | ★ The Kitten
Start just right of the tree and bumble up the big crack. There are a few interesting moves and good wires. FFA: Amanda Bailey, 1996 | 10m | |||
17 | ★ Easy to cheat
Stick to the line of bolts and refrain from using the easy and big cracks and corner edges left or right. Set: Loneclimber, 26 Sep 2020 FA: Loneclimber, 8 Oct 2020 | 6m, 4 | |||
10 | Lichen the colours
Short climb with some interesting moves. Start is a few metres to the left from the bottom of access path. Anchor off the large tree stump at top of access path. FA on top-rope solo. Set: Warwick Davis FA: Warwick Davis, 19 Jul 2019 | 8m | |||
17 | Shifting the fridge
Same start as Lichen. Stick to the right side of the slab between the arete and the crack. FA: Warwick Davis, 22 Jul 2019 | 8m | |||
Play Pen Big Wall | |||||
Mamma Mia
Follow a clear line of cracks , 3 bolts in place in the middle of the project Set: Loneclimber, 1 May 2023 | |||||
Play Pen Gully Wall | |||||
21 | ★★ The Gully 21
A short but enjoyable line that is more challenging than it first appears. Rappel off tree at bottom of Main Wall to access anchors. The missing plate is now in place and also a bolt for the belayer at the start to avoid falls from the small ledge | 8m, 5 | |||
Play Pen Lower Buttress | |||||
18 | ★ Unknown left
Shared start with Fish and Chips but imediately trends left to follow the bolts. | 12m | |||
20 | ★★ Fish and Chips
Current climbers know this route as Fish and Chips but no-one can recall where the name came from. There is a video from the 90s where local climbers called it One Hit Wonder and graded it as an 18. However, at some point an integral hold was partially broken off and this would explain why the grade is regarded closer to 20. | 15m | |||
21 | ★★ The Overhang
A short, pumpy line with an early crux which has two possible variations. Stay left after the first bolt for the much harder of the two. There is a DBB at the 4th clip for top-roping and lower off or continue up to top out. | 10m, 4 | |||
Play Pen The Basement | |||||
23 | ★★★ R-ocktane
Open Project at the very bottom of The Basement Wall. Route comprises of a very tricky start which was first climbed by aid techniques using pro in the crack. Upon reaching the first set of anchors the line traverses left across the face to a second anchor set. The route setter wishes it to be considered as one route in a single push rather than an extension. Has not had a Free First Ascent. | 10m, 4 | |||
21 | Channel Surfing
Slightly overhung start makes this a good challenge but is easy in comparison to R-ocktane a few metres to the left. Arguably the best textured (grippy) rock at Playpen is on this wall. Climb up to the ledge to find the DBB. | 10m, 6 | |||
Eastwatch North wall | |||||
21 | ★★★ Where Eagles Swear
Start is at the bottom right-hand corner of the face below the belay boulder. Work up and to the left to reach the first bolt and then head straight up. Name was derived from the first top-rope expedition with eagles soaring overhead and colourful language from the Italian, Loneclimber. FA: Warwick Davis, 1 Mar 2021 Set: Warwick Davis & Loneclimber, 4 Mar 2021 FFA: Warwick Davis, 10 Mar 2021 | 10m, 6 | |||
Unknown
Set: Graham Page, 2012 | 15m, 3 | ||||
9 | For Whom The Bell Tolls
Nasty piece of work. Lots of loose looking boulders, best left alone! Between Out for a Duck & Rose Amongst Thorns (thus the name) π. Start at tree on ledge. FA: Paul Wright & Amanda Bailey, 1997 | 21m | |||
★★ Death by falling refrigerator | |||||
23 | ★★★ The Handromeda Strain
There is nothing contrived about this line. Pass 5 RB to arrive at the DBB using whatever holds and techniques you need to. Inspired by the classic novel and subsequent movie by Michael Crichton, this climb is infectiously good. Set: Warwick Davis, 2 Sep 2020 FFA: Warwick Davis, 9 Nov 2020 | 15m, 6 | |||
16 | Lawn Bowls Looks Good
The twin cracks left of square overhanging arete. Up the crack through two bulges. Bridge up to ledge on right up to tree belay. FA: Paul Wright & Amanda Bailey, 1996 | 17m | |||
12 | Mixed Doubles
FA: Paul Wright & Amanda Bailey, 1997 | 9m | |||
14 | Out For A Duck
FA: Paul Wright & Amanda Bailey, 1997 | 21m | |||
18 | Maiden Over
FA: Paul Wright & Amanda Bailey, 1997 | 17m | |||
Eastwatch South wall | |||||
Unknown | |||||
12 | Warwick's project- Closed
This route is incomplete and the route setter respectfully asks that no attempts are made until it is open. | 10m, 1 | |||
19 | Warwick's project, bottom pitch - Closed
FA: Warwick Davis, 7 Jun 2021 | 15m, 1 | |||
Eastwatch Perseverance Wall | |||||
Warwick's project- Closed | 10m | ||||
Luke's Project - Closed | 8m | ||||
Rosamond Bottom Tier | |||||
11 | Tom Thumb
Toward left end of cliff is a flat topped boulder with a right leaning off-width on right side of boulder. FA: Amanda Bailey, 1998 | 7m | |||
14 | Hansel
FA: Paul Wright & Amanda Bailey, 1998 | 11m | |||
8 | Three Billy Goats Gruff
On left wall of the gully between Hansel and Gretel. FA: Amanda Bailey, Paul Wright & Ken Grienke, 1998 | 21m | |||
14 | Gretel
FA: Paul Wright & Amanda Bailey, 1998 | 17m | |||
V1 | Risk of Impalement
Large dark boulder on the very right side of bottom tier. Standing start to the left of the arrow-shaped impalement rock. Straight up the middle and top out. FA: Warwick Davis, 12 May 2021 | 6m | |||
V2 | Risk of Impalement RHV
Sit start variation on the knife edge of the impalement rock. FA: Warwick Davis, 12 May 2021 | 6m | |||
Rosamond | |||||
16 | Rapunzel
FA: Paul Wright & Amanda Bailey, 1998 | 18m | |||
17 | Mother Gothel
FA: Paul Wright & Amanda Bailey, 1998 | 13m | |||
5 | Thumbalina
FA: Amanda Bailey & Paul Wright, 1998 | 10m | |||
Other P | |||||
Cave left | |||||
The shadow of the day | |||||
Mt Jim Crow (Baga) | |||||
18 | ★ Jim Jam
This route is located on a small outcrop, on the main walking track to the summit. Top-rope only from one of the trees. FA: Jacob Carvell & Aaron Wilhelmsen, 2009 | 8m |
Showing all 51 routes.