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Routes in Rockhampton

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Showing all 51 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Peak hill
Walk On By

Walk on by because there's much better climbing just up the hill. Climb mostly right side up slot on edges and very dirty rock, offwidth technique not necessary.

From original open project description of climb: Might have some trouble with crash-pads due to the slope of the ground. Plenty of opportunity for gear and-or top-rope from the tree at the top of the crack.

FFA: Sam J, 20 Jun 2021

Boulder 4m
Traverse project

Open project. Sit-start right with a two-handed sloper-rail. Track feet across a series of interesting heel and toe hooks to partially circumnavigate the boulder moving left (against the force of gravity). Top-out after the arete having finished swinging about near the floor.

Unknown
12 Fig jam

A short and fun hand crack that has some good placements in solid rock. A good option for trad beginner, top-rope or done as a high-ball boulder with ample space at the bottom for mats and spotter.

FFA: Warwick Davis, 26 Oct 2020

Trad 6m
Crack project

Open crack project. A series of single pitch lines on a reasonably exposed slabby block. Looks like a lot of fun with a reasonable trad placements and/or trees for the top-rope included.

Unknown
Play Pen Main Wall
23 Plasmodium
Sport 14m, 6
21 Psoriasis

This climb is often top-roped and is a fine, technical and sustained route. Climb the line 1mtr left of the arete, using a few desperate lay-aways off the arete. Top out at the DBB.

Set: Phil. Y & Paul Smith, 2000

Sport 14m, 7
13 Malaria

Start on the belay boulder and climb the atmospheric arete which has thought provoking moves. Pass 4 bolts to top-out at the Siriosis DBB

FFA: Paul Wright, 1996

Sport 14m, 5
15 New Day

Stand on the block and commit to the wall.

FFA: Paul Smith, 2000

Sport 15m, 3
18 Snapper back off

FFA: Glen Mollenhaur, 2000

Sport 12m, 5
10 Dynamo Hum

Climb the wide manky crack and finish by scrambling up the gully.

FFA: Paul Wright, 1996

Trad 10m
19 Special Education

A great line which has the most unique hold at Playpen being "the nose or beard". Commonly climbed as sport it was originally climbed with a nut/cam placement between the 2nd & 3rd bolt in the left variation of Camarello Brillo crack. Missing the 3rd clip would result in a ground fall.

Mixed trad 12m, 3
14 Camarello Brillo

Good rock, all natural gear. The line follows 3 seperate cracks, the middle one taking you diagonally right. Top out at S.E DRBB.

FFA: Amanda Bailey

Mixed trad 12m, 1
13 Unknown

Good warm up and beginner route. As with Special Education, originally climbed with nut placement between 2nd and 3rd bolt in the right variation of Camarello Brillo.

Mixed trad 10m, 3
8 The cat in the hat

Good gear and easy moves. Good beginner climb. Start just left of the tree and work your way up the crack and corner system. Several exit variants. Take care of loose blocks.

FFA: Paul Wright, 1996

Trad 12m
8 The Kitten

Start just right of the tree and bumble up the big crack. There are a few interesting moves and good wires.

FFA: Amanda Bailey, 1996

Trad 10m
17 Easy to cheat

Stick to the line of bolts and refrain from using the easy and big cracks and corner edges left or right.

Set: Loneclimber, 26 Sep 2020

FA: Loneclimber, 8 Oct 2020

Sport 6m, 4
10 Lichen the colours

Short climb with some interesting moves. Start is a few metres to the left from the bottom of access path. Anchor off the large tree stump at top of access path. FA on top-rope solo.

Set: Warwick Davis

FA: Warwick Davis, 19 Jul 2019

Top rope 8m
17 Shifting the fridge

Same start as Lichen. Stick to the right side of the slab between the arete and the crack.

FA: Warwick Davis, 22 Jul 2019

Top rope 8m
Play Pen Big Wall
Mamma Mia

Follow a clear line of cracks , 3 bolts in place in the middle of the project

Set: Loneclimber, 1 May 2023

SportProject
Play Pen Gully Wall
21 The Gully 21

A short but enjoyable line that is more challenging than it first appears. Rappel off tree at bottom of Main Wall to access anchors. The missing plate is now in place and also a bolt for the belayer at the start to avoid falls from the small ledge

Sport 8m, 5
Play Pen Lower Buttress
18 Unknown left

Shared start with Fish and Chips but imediately trends left to follow the bolts.

Sport 12m
20 Fish and Chips

Current climbers know this route as Fish and Chips but no-one can recall where the name came from. There is a video from the 90s where local climbers called it One Hit Wonder and graded it as an 18. However, at some point an integral hold was partially broken off and this would explain why the grade is regarded closer to 20.

Sport 15m
21 The Overhang

A short, pumpy line with an early crux which has two possible variations. Stay left after the first bolt for the much harder of the two. There is a DBB at the 4th clip for top-roping and lower off or continue up to top out.

Sport 10m, 4
Play Pen The Basement
23 R-ocktane

Open Project at the very bottom of The Basement Wall. Route comprises of a very tricky start which was first climbed by aid techniques using pro in the crack. Upon reaching the first set of anchors the line traverses left across the face to a second anchor set. The route setter wishes it to be considered as one route in a single push rather than an extension. Has not had a Free First Ascent.

Set: 2 Nov 2019

FA: Ty Kolbe, 4 Jun 2020

NA: Matt H, 23 Apr 2023

SportProject 10m, 4
21 Channel Surfing

Slightly overhung start makes this a good challenge but is easy in comparison to R-ocktane a few metres to the left. Arguably the best textured (grippy) rock at Playpen is on this wall. Climb up to the ledge to find the DBB.

Set: Warwick Davis, Jan 2021

FA: Warwick Davis, 23 Jan 2021

FFA: Warwick Davis, 22 Feb 2021

Sport 10m, 6
Eastwatch North wall
21 Where Eagles Swear

Start is at the bottom right-hand corner of the face below the belay boulder. Work up and to the left to reach the first bolt and then head straight up. Name was derived from the first top-rope expedition with eagles soaring overhead and colourful language from the Italian, Loneclimber.

FA: Warwick Davis, 1 Mar 2021

Set: Warwick Davis & Loneclimber, 4 Mar 2021

FFA: Warwick Davis, 10 Mar 2021

Unknown 10m, 6
Unknown

Set: Graham Page, 2012

Sport 15m, 3
9 For Whom The Bell Tolls

Nasty piece of work. Lots of loose looking boulders, best left alone! Between Out for a Duck & Rose Amongst Thorns (thus the name) 😊. Start at tree on ledge.

FA: Paul Wright & Amanda Bailey, 1997

Boulder 21m
Death by falling refrigerator Trad
23 The Handromeda Strain

There is nothing contrived about this line. Pass 5 RB to arrive at the DBB using whatever holds and techniques you need to. Inspired by the classic novel and subsequent movie by Michael Crichton, this climb is infectiously good.

Set: Warwick Davis, 2 Sep 2020

FFA: Warwick Davis, 9 Nov 2020

Sport 15m, 6
16 Lawn Bowls Looks Good

The twin cracks left of square overhanging arete. Up the crack through two bulges. Bridge up to ledge on right up to tree belay.

FA: Paul Wright & Amanda Bailey, 1996

Trad 17m
12 Mixed Doubles

FA: Paul Wright & Amanda Bailey, 1997

Trad 9m
14 Out For A Duck

FA: Paul Wright & Amanda Bailey, 1997

Trad 21m
18 Maiden Over

FA: Paul Wright & Amanda Bailey, 1997

Trad 17m
Eastwatch South wall
Unknown Top rope
12 Warwick's project- Closed

This route is incomplete and the route setter respectfully asks that no attempts are made until it is open.

Top ropeProject 10m, 1
19 Warwick's project, bottom pitch - Closed

FA: Warwick Davis, 7 Jun 2021

Top ropeProject 15m, 1
Eastwatch Perseverance Wall
Warwick's project- Closed SportProject 10m
Luke's Project - Closed SportProject 8m
Rosamond Bottom Tier
11 Tom Thumb

Toward left end of cliff is a flat topped boulder with a right leaning off-width on right side of boulder.

FA: Amanda Bailey, 1998

Trad 7m
14 Hansel

FA: Paul Wright & Amanda Bailey, 1998

Trad 11m
8 Three Billy Goats Gruff

On left wall of the gully between Hansel and Gretel.

FA: Amanda Bailey, Paul Wright & Ken Grienke, 1998

Trad 21m
14 Gretel

FA: Paul Wright & Amanda Bailey, 1998

Trad 17m
V1 Risk of Impalement

Large dark boulder on the very right side of bottom tier. Standing start to the left of the arrow-shaped impalement rock. Straight up the middle and top out.

FA: Warwick Davis, 12 May 2021

Boulder 6m
V2 Risk of Impalement RHV

Sit start variation on the knife edge of the impalement rock.

FA: Warwick Davis, 12 May 2021

Boulder 6m
Rosamond
16 Rapunzel

FA: Paul Wright & Amanda Bailey, 1998

Trad 18m
17 Mother Gothel

FA: Paul Wright & Amanda Bailey, 1998

Trad 13m
5 Thumbalina

FA: Amanda Bailey & Paul Wright, 1998

Trad 10m
Other P
Cave left Sport
The shadow of the day Sport
Mt Jim Crow (Baga)
18 Jim Jam

This route is located on a small outcrop, on the main walking track to the summit. Top-rope only from one of the trees.

FA: Jacob Carvell & Aaron Wilhelmsen, 2009

Unknown 8m

Showing all 51 routes.

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