A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Rocky Tom 95 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Top Rope

Long/Lat: 147.380602, -42.825146

Description:

This crag has a high occurrence of visits by Scout groups and school 'adventure eduction' classes. The reason for its popularity with novices is pretty obvious when you visit, as it is one of the few cliffs in the Hobart region with a predominance of excellent easy routes. It also contains its share of good hard routes. Rocky Tom's popularity is also boosted by its closeness to town and a sunny aspect. The climbs at Rocky Tom are usually top-roped which is quite easily done (many have been soloed and, to my knowledge, no-one has ended up like Russel Chudleigh yet). Stainless steel bolts provide anchors at the top of some of the more popular routes, and trees are otherwise plentiful. However, there are few gear placements for those who would want to lead. Most climbs are about 8m high and all are on sandstone.

Approach:

Access to Rocky Tom requires a ten minute drive and then a 30 minute walk. From the city centre, head for the eastern shore via the Tasman Bridge and head for Sorell. Leave the highway 4 km from the bridge at the B33 exit (Mornington, Warrane, etc), turn R toward Flagstaff Gully and park 5 km further on, past the first entrance to the Quarry, at the Flagstaff Gully Reserve, before the entrance to the Quarry proper. Note that the gate at the bottom of the initial hill, by the reservoir (800m from the end of the road), is locked after hours, so it is advisable to park in the area provided just outside the gate. The gate is open: weekdays 6am – 4pm; Sat 6am – 12 pm; Sun closed. The walk has been considered by some to be steep and exhausting, but it is short and along a well defined track. From the car, walk to the end of the bitumen road. Follow the 4wd track (now very rough) which leads down left from behind the tree in the middle of a parking bay. This soon crosses a creek and then heads uphill. After ascending for about ten minutes, the track veers R and a walking track heads up to the L. Follow this for 200m up to Shadow Buttress. The buttresses and climbs are described in the conventional L-to-R ordering. Note that the track first approaches Shadow Buttress, then crosses the hill to Hanging Buttress, before swinging east past the rest of Castle Wall, Square Buttress and White Stump. The Bastille and Lone Tower are approached from Shadow Buttress by deviating from the normal track.

Ethic:

As top-roping is the status-quo, the climbs have been graded for a top-rope ascent.

1.1. White Stump 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Top Rope
Description:

From Hanging Buttress head east along the jeep track for 300m until the track heads down-hill to the R. The buttress is 30m down L. The rock on the buttress is fairly brittle, so leading is less desirable here than elsewhere. Nevertheless, it does provide very steep and strenuous climbing and provides the longest climbs in the area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Miss Muffet

Climb the arete on the LH end of the buttress.

FA: TR Christie, 1967

13Top rope 17m
2 Cast Iron Claw

The face halfway between the LH arete and the chimney of Funnel-web. The first moves are fairly tricky. The rest is easier but steep.

16Top rope 15m
3 Funnel-web

The chimney which evenly bisects the buttress. Move out R at the top.

FA: TR Reg Williams, 1967

15Top rope 15m
4 * Devil Rides Out

A devious and rather psychologically demanding little route. Start at the base of the chimney of Funnel-web. Traverse out on small holds, heel-hook onto the face (crux) then finish up the cracks and face above.

20Top rope 15m
5 Fly Trap

A testing route up the face just R of Funnel-web. Steep and worthwhile, though a little loose on the lower sections.

16Top rope 15m
6 Spider Wall

The wall directly above the cherry tree. The difficulties are proportional to the height.

FA: TR John Wholan, 1967

15Top rope 15m
7 Gossamer

Just around the corner to the R of Spider Wall is a gently sloping face. Start with a good orthopaedic move 2m R of the arete, then follow the good holds above to the top.

13Top rope 10m

1.2. Square Buttress 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Top Rope
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Arapiles Crack 9Top rope 5m
2 Square Root Variant 16Top rope 10m
3 Square Root Direct 16Top rope 10m
4 Surd 19Top rope 10m
5 Square Root 16Top rope 10m
6 Cube Root 19Top rope 10m
7 Absurd 18Top rope 10m
8 Oblique Gully Top rope 4m
9 Victoria 10Top rope 5m
10 Una's Crack 14Top rope 4m
11 Nathan 18Top rope 4m

1.3. Castle Rock 31 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Top Rope
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Palpitations 16Top rope 7m
2 Trambles 12Top rope 7m
3 Trembles Arete 13Top rope 7m
4 Pumacillo 18Top rope 7m
5 Pumacillo Variant 21Top rope 7m
6 Tiger Wall Direct 17Top rope 6m
7 Tiger Wall 14Top rope 6m
8 Gerry 18Top rope 4m
9 Sheoke Traverse 15Top rope 6m
10 The Neb 18Top rope 5m
11 Belfry Direct 16Top rope 4m
12 Dingbats 15Top rope 4m
13 Dingbats Direct 13Top rope 5m
14 Airmail Direct 23Top rope 5m
15 Airmail 15Top rope 5m
16 Dead Letter 16Top rope 4m
17 Letterbox 10Top rope 4m
18 Twilight Climb 4Top rope 3m
19 Needle 16Top rope 8m
20 Teddy Bear Traverse 13Top rope 8m
21 Excalibur 12Top rope 8m
22 Vegies Wall 20Top rope 8m
23 ** Excalibur Direct 17Trad 8m
24 Lancelot 16Top rope 8m
25 Damocles M1Aid 8m
26 Merlin the Magician 27Top rope 8m
27 Seams Direct 25Top rope 8m
28 Funky Chicken 20Top rope 8m
29 Capon 15Top rope 8m
30 Seams 17Top rope 8m
31 Slavery 13Top rope 6m

1.4. The Managerie 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Flamingo Slabs Top rope
2 Orang Outang Top rope
3 ** Jack Jumper Arete

Arete behind the tree, from sitting start to hard mantle. A great problem, but the landing is a little dicey, bring a couple of mats. Follow the arete directly - a bit easier if you pike and move right to top out.

V7Boulder
4 V1

Up around left from the bottom face is a bit of a bulge. Sit start, then follow the lichen free holds to the top.

V1Boulder
5 * V4/5

The line right of the arete, starting at the big flat hold, up the highest part of the boulder. Keep on the right face. Starting to the right at the flake and moving left is an alternative start.

V5Boulder
6 Achey Breaky Flakey

No longer existent. The loose flake broke. Start as for Orang-Utan, move left onto loose flake, dyne for lip.

V5Boulder
7 * Orang-Utan

Undercling at large slot then straight up and onto slab

V1Boulder
8 V4

Straight up on small holds to finish right of Orang-Utan. DONT USE ANY HOLDS OF ORANG-UTAN

V4Boulder
9 1st V3

Sit start with feet on hanging pedestal. Pull up for small edges and dyne for good holds and pull onto slab. Variation finish: Traverse the lip to finish for other V3.

V3Boulder
10 ** Rhinocerous

Start as for previous V3 traverse right to incut edges, up to large slot then up onto slab. Many variants/eliminates existent.

V4Boulder
11 2nd V3

Sit start under small cave on good holds. Straight up to slot via good holds, mantle onto slab.

V3Boulder
12 * Virgin Buster

Start as for number 5 (V3) move left around arete to finish as for V4. Crux is past the arete.

V9Boulder

1.5. Lone Tower 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Top Rope
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pythagoras 12Top rope 6m
2 Archimedes 9Top rope 4m
3 Principle 14Top rope 7m
4 Orient Express 18Top rope 7m
5 Eureka 16Top rope 7m

1.6. The Bastille 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Top Rope
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Creep 15Top rope 4m
2 Pullman 16Top rope 7m
3 Drool 18Top rope 7m
4 Bastille Crack 12Top rope 7m

1.7. Shadow Buttress 23 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Top Rope
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Matterhorn 8Top rope 6m
2 East Wall 17Top rope 6m
3 Thunderbolt 11Top rope 4m
4 Scholtz's Chimney 5Top rope 5m
5 Bastinado 17Top rope 5m
6 Kennedy's Wall 16Top rope 5m
7 Cling To The Crest 15Top rope 5m
8 Jingle 16Trad 5m
9 Thread Belay Cracks 11Top rope 7m
10 Rudolf Variant 18Top rope 7m
11 Rudolf 18Top rope 7m
12 Afterglow 20Top rope 7m
13 Beginners Chimney 4Top rope 8m
14 Santa 12Top rope 8m
15 Parasite 14Top rope 9m
16 Donner 19Top rope 9m
17 ** Blitzen 16Top rope 9m
18 Collision 20Top rope 8m
19 * Precision Wall 15Top rope 8m
20 Precision Wall Variant 13Top rope 8m
21 Precision Face 19Top rope 7m
22 Funicular Cracks 14Top rope 7m
23 Golliwog Wall 19Top rope 7m

1.8. Omega Rocks 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Top Rope
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hibernation 15Top rope 5m
2 Cobweb Crack 18Top rope 5m

1.9. The Menagerie 0 routes in Area

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
4 Twilight Climb Top rope 3m 1.3. Castle Rock
Beginners Chimney Top rope 8m 1.7. Shadow Buttress
5 Scholtz's Chimney Top rope 5m 1.7. Shadow Buttress
8 Matterhorn Top rope 6m 1.7. Shadow Buttress
9 Arapiles Crack Top rope 5m 1.2. Square Buttress
Archimedes Top rope 4m 1.5. Lone Tower
10 Victoria Top rope 5m 1.2. Square Buttress
Letterbox Top rope 4m 1.3. Castle Rock
11 Thread Belay Cracks Top rope 7m 1.7. Shadow Buttress
Thunderbolt Top rope 4m 1.7. Shadow Buttress
12 Excalibur Top rope 8m 1.3. Castle Rock
Trambles Top rope 7m 1.3. Castle Rock
Pythagoras Top rope 6m 1.5. Lone Tower
Bastille Crack Top rope 7m 1.6. The Bastille
Santa Top rope 8m 1.7. Shadow Buttress
13 Gossamer Top rope 10m 1.1. White Stump
Miss Muffet Top rope 17m 1.1. White Stump
Dingbats Direct Top rope 5m 1.3. Castle Rock
Slavery Top rope 6m 1.3. Castle Rock
Teddy Bear Traverse Top rope 8m 1.3. Castle Rock
Trembles Arete Top rope 7m 1.3. Castle Rock
Precision Wall Variant Top rope 8m 1.7. Shadow Buttress
14 Una's Crack Top rope 4m 1.2. Square Buttress
Tiger Wall Top rope 6m 1.3. Castle Rock
Principle Top rope 7m 1.5. Lone Tower
Funicular Cracks Top rope 7m 1.7. Shadow Buttress
Parasite Top rope 9m 1.7. Shadow Buttress
15 Funnel-web Top rope 15m 1.1. White Stump
Spider Wall Top rope 15m 1.1. White Stump
Airmail Top rope 5m 1.3. Castle Rock
Capon Top rope 8m 1.3. Castle Rock
Dingbats Top rope 4m 1.3. Castle Rock
Sheoke Traverse Top rope 6m 1.3. Castle Rock
Creep Top rope 4m 1.6. The Bastille
Cling To The Crest Top rope 5m 1.7. Shadow Buttress
* Precision Wall Top rope 8m 1.7. Shadow Buttress
Hibernation Top rope 5m 1.8. Omega Rocks
16 Cast Iron Claw Top rope 15m 1.1. White Stump
Fly Trap Top rope 15m 1.1. White Stump
Square Root Top rope 10m 1.2. Square Buttress
Square Root Direct Top rope 10m 1.2. Square Buttress
Square Root Variant Top rope 10m 1.2. Square Buttress
Belfry Direct Top rope 4m 1.3. Castle Rock
Dead Letter Top rope 4m 1.3. Castle Rock
Lancelot Top rope 8m 1.3. Castle Rock
Needle Top rope 8m 1.3. Castle Rock
Palpitations Top rope 7m 1.3. Castle Rock
Eureka Top rope 7m 1.5. Lone Tower
Pullman Top rope 7m 1.6. The Bastille
** Blitzen Top rope 9m 1.7. Shadow Buttress
Jingle Trad 5m 1.7. Shadow Buttress
Kennedy's Wall Top rope 5m 1.7. Shadow Buttress
17 ** Excalibur Direct Trad 8m 1.3. Castle Rock
Seams Top rope 8m 1.3. Castle Rock
Tiger Wall Direct Top rope 6m 1.3. Castle Rock
Bastinado Top rope 5m 1.7. Shadow Buttress
East Wall Top rope 6m 1.7. Shadow Buttress
18 Absurd Top rope 10m 1.2. Square Buttress
Nathan Top rope 4m 1.2. Square Buttress
Gerry Top rope 4m 1.3. Castle Rock
Pumacillo Top rope 7m 1.3. Castle Rock
The Neb Top rope 5m 1.3. Castle Rock
Orient Express Top rope 7m 1.5. Lone Tower
Drool Top rope 7m 1.6. The Bastille
Rudolf Top rope 7m 1.7. Shadow Buttress
Rudolf Variant Top rope 7m 1.7. Shadow Buttress
Cobweb Crack Top rope 5m 1.8. Omega Rocks
19 Cube Root Top rope 10m 1.2. Square Buttress
Surd Top rope 10m 1.2. Square Buttress
Donner Top rope 9m 1.7. Shadow Buttress
Golliwog Wall Top rope 7m 1.7. Shadow Buttress
Precision Face Top rope 7m 1.7. Shadow Buttress
V1 * Orang-Utan Boulder 1.4. The Managerie
V1 Boulder 1.4. The Managerie
20 * Devil Rides Out Top rope 15m 1.1. White Stump
Funky Chicken Top rope 8m 1.3. Castle Rock
Vegies Wall Top rope 8m 1.3. Castle Rock
Afterglow Top rope 7m 1.7. Shadow Buttress
Collision Top rope 8m 1.7. Shadow Buttress
21 Pumacillo Variant Top rope 7m 1.3. Castle Rock
V3 1st V3 Boulder 1.4. The Managerie
2nd V3 Boulder 1.4. The Managerie
23 Airmail Direct Top rope 5m 1.3. Castle Rock
V4 ** Rhinocerous Boulder 1.4. The Managerie
V4 Boulder 1.4. The Managerie
25 Seams Direct Top rope 8m 1.3. Castle Rock
V5 Achey Breaky Flakey Boulder 1.4. The Managerie
* V4/5 Boulder 1.4. The Managerie
27 Merlin the Magician Top rope 8m 1.3. Castle Rock
V7 ** Jack Jumper Arete Boulder 1.4. The Managerie
V9 * Virgin Buster Boulder 1.4. The Managerie
? Oblique Gully Top rope 4m 1.2. Square Buttress
Flamingo Slabs Top rope 1.4. The Managerie
Orang Outang Top rope 1.4. The Managerie
M1 Damocles Aid 8m 1.3. Castle Rock