Crag Guide for Rocky Tom
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Tommy Krauss
David Barnes
Cameron Rennie
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Rocky Tom
95 in Crag
- 1.1. White Stump 7 in Area
- 1.2. Square Buttress 11 in Area
- 1.3. Castle Rock 31 in Area
- 1.4. The Managerie 12 in Area
- 1.5. Lone Tower 5 in Area
- 1.6. The Bastille 4 in Area
- 1.7. Shadow Buttress 23 in Area
- 1.8. Omega Rocks 2 in Area
- 1.9. The Menagerie 0 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Rocky Tom 95 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad or Sport
Long/Lat: 147.380602, -42.825146
- Description:
-
This crag has a high occurrence of visits by Scout groups and school 'adventure eduction' classes. The reason for its popularity with novices is pretty obvious when you visit, as it is one of the few cliffs in the Hobart region with a predominance of excellent easy routes. It also contains its share of good hard routes. Rocky Tom's popularity is also boosted by its closeness to town and a sunny aspect. The climbs at Rocky Tom are usually top-roped which is quite easily done (many have been soloed and, to my knowledge, no-one has ended up like Russel Chudleigh yet). Stainless steel bolts provide anchors at the top of some of the more popular routes, and trees are otherwise plentiful. However, there are few gear placements for those who would want to lead. Most climbs are about 8m high and all are on sandstone.
- Approach:
-
Access to Rocky Tom requires a ten minute drive and then a 30 minute walk. From the city centre, head for the eastern shore via the Tasman Bridge and head for Sorell. Leave the highway 4 km from the bridge at the B33 exit (Mornington, Warrane, etc), turn R toward Flagstaff Gully and park 5 km further on, past the first entrance to the Quarry, at the Flagstaff Gully Reserve, before the entrance to the Quarry proper. Note that the gate at the bottom of the initial hill, by the reservoir (800m from the end of the road), is locked after hours, so it is advisable to park in the area provided just outside the gate. The gate is open: weekdays 6am – 4pm; Sat 6am – 12 pm; Sun closed. The walk has been considered by some to be steep and exhausting, but it is short and along a well defined track. From the car, walk to the end of the bitumen road. Follow the 4wd track (now very rough) which leads down left from behind the tree in the middle of a parking bay. This soon crosses a creek and then heads uphill. After ascending for about ten minutes, the track veers R and a walking track heads up to the L. Follow this for 200m up to Shadow Buttress. The buttresses and climbs are described in the conventional L-to-R ordering. Note that the track first approaches Shadow Buttress, then crosses the hill to Hanging Buttress, before swinging east past the rest of Castle Wall, Square Buttress and White Stump. The Bastille and Lone Tower are approached from Shadow Buttress by deviating from the normal track.
- Ethic:
-
As top-roping is the status-quo, the climbs have been graded for a top-rope ascent.
1.1. White Stump 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Top Rope
- Description:
-
From Hanging Buttress head east along the jeep track for 300m until the track heads down-hill to the R. The buttress is 30m down L. The rock on the buttress is fairly brittle, so leading is less desirable here than elsewhere. Nevertheless, it does provide very steep and strenuous climbing and provides the longest climbs in the area.
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Miss Muffet
Climb the arete on the LH end of the buttress. FA: TR Christie, 1967 | 13 | 17m | |||
| 2 |
Cast Iron Claw
The face halfway between the LH arete and the chimney of Funnel-web. The first moves are fairly tricky. The rest is easier but steep. | 16 | 15m | |||
| 3 |
Funnel-web
The chimney which evenly bisects the buttress. Move out R at the top. FA: TR Reg Williams, 1967 | 15 | 15m | |||
| 4 |
 Devil Rides Out
A devious and rather psychologically demanding little route. Start at the base of the chimney of Funnel-web. Traverse out on small holds, heel-hook onto the face (crux) then finish up the cracks and face above. | 20 | 15m | |||
| 5 |
Fly Trap
A testing route up the face just R of Funnel-web. Steep and worthwhile, though a little loose on the lower sections. | 16 | 15m | |||
| 6 |
Spider Wall
The wall directly above the cherry tree. The difficulties are proportional to the height. FA: TR John Wholan, 1967 | 15 | 15m | |||
| 7 |
Gossamer
Just around the corner to the R of Spider Wall is a gently sloping face. Start with a good orthopaedic move 2m R of the arete, then follow the good holds above to the top. | 13 | 10m | |||
1.2. Square Buttress 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Arapiles Crack | 9 | 5m | |||
| 2 | Square Root Variant | 16 | 10m | |||
| 3 | Square Root Direct | 16 | 10m | |||
| 4 | Surd | 19 | 10m | |||
| 5 | Square Root | 16 | 10m |
Karen Doyle 5 years ago
| ||
| 6 | Cube Root | 19 | 10m | |||
| 7 | Absurd | 18 | 10m | |||
| 8 | Oblique Gully | 4m | ||||
| 9 | Victoria | 10 | 5m |
Karen Doyle 5 years ago
| ||
| 10 | Una's Crack | 14 | 4m | |||
| 11 | Nathan | 18 | 4m | |||
1.3. Castle Rock 31 routes in Area
- Summary:
- Mostly Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Palpitations | 16 | 7m | |||
| 2 | Trambles | 12 | 7m | |||
| 3 | Trembles Arete | 13 | 7m | |||
| 4 | Pumacillo | 18 | 7m | |||
| 5 | Pumacillo Variant | 21 | 7m | |||
| 6 | Tiger Wall Direct | 17 | 6m |
Justin Dittmann 9 years ago
| ||
| 7 | Tiger Wall | 14 | 6m | |||
| 8 | Gerry | 18 | 4m | |||
| 9 | Sheoke Traverse | 15 | 6m | |||
| 10 | The Neb | 18 | 5m | |||
| 11 | Belfry Direct | 16 | 4m | |||
| 12 | Dingbats | 15 | 4m | |||
| 13 | Dingbats Direct | 13 | 5m | |||
| 14 | Airmail Direct | 23 | 5m |
topher 8 years ago
| ||
| 15 | Airmail | 15 | 5m | |||
| 16 | Dead Letter | 16 | 4m | |||
| 17 | Letterbox | 10 | 4m | |||
| 18 | Twilight Climb | 4 | 3m |
Chris Beric 10 years ago
| ||
| 19 | Needle | 16 | 8m | |||
| 20 | Teddy Bear Traverse | 13 | 8m | |||
| 21 | Excalibur | 12 | 8m | |||
| 22 | Vegies Wall | 20 | 8m | |||
| 23 |
Excalibur Direct
| 17 | 8m | |||
| 24 |
Lancelot
| 16 | 8m | |||
| 25 | Damocles | M1 | 8m | |||
| 26 | Merlin the Magician | 27 | 8m | |||
| 27 | Seams Direct | 25 | 8m | |||
| 28 | Funky Chicken | 20 | 8m | |||
| 29 | Capon | 15 | 8m | |||
| 30 | Seams | 17 | 8m | |||
| 31 |
Slavery
| 13 | 6m | |||
1.4. The Managerie 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
- Mostly Boulder
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Flamingo Slabs | |||||
| 2 | Orang Outang | |||||
| 3 |
Jack Jumper Arete
Arete behind the tree, from sitting start to hard mantle. A great problem, but the landing is a little dicey, bring a couple of mats. Follow the arete directly - a bit easier if you pike and move right to top out. | V7 | ||||
| 4 |
V1
Up around left from the bottom face is a bit of a bulge. Sit start, then follow the lichen free holds to the top. | V1 | ||||
| 5 |
V4/5
The line right of the arete, starting at the big flat hold, up the highest part of the boulder. Keep on the right face. Starting to the right at the flake and moving left is an alternative start. | V5 | ||||
| 6 |
Achey Breaky Flakey
No longer existent. The loose flake broke. Start as for Orang-Utan, move left onto loose flake, dyne for lip. | V5 | ||||
| 7 |
Orang-Utan
Undercling at large slot then straight up and onto slab | V1 | ||||
| 8 |
V4
Straight up on small holds to finish right of Orang-Utan. DONT USE ANY HOLDS OF ORANG-UTAN | V4 | ||||
| 9 |
1st V3
Sit start with feet on hanging pedestal. Pull up for small edges and dyne for good holds and pull onto slab. Variation finish: Traverse the lip to finish for other V3. | V3 | ||||
| 10 |
Rhinocerous
Start as for previous V3 traverse right to incut edges, up to large slot then up onto slab. Many variants/eliminates existent. | V4 | ||||
| 11 |
2nd V3
Sit start under small cave on good holds. Straight up to slot via good holds, mantle onto slab. | V3 | ||||
| 12 |
Virgin Buster
Start as for number 5 (V3) move left around arete to finish as for V4. Crux is past the arete. | V9 | ||||
1.5. Lone Tower 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Pythagoras | 12 | 6m | |||
| 2 | Archimedes | 9 | 4m | |||
| 3 | Principle | 14 | 7m | |||
| 4 | Orient Express | 18 | 7m | |||
| 5 | Eureka | 16 | 7m | |||
1.6. The Bastille 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Creep | 15 | 4m | |||
| 2 | Pullman | 16 | 7m | |||
| 3 | Drool | 18 | 7m | |||
| 4 | Bastille Crack | 12 | 7m | |||
1.7. Shadow Buttress 23 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Matterhorn | 8 | 6m |
Terry Svingen 9 years ago
| ||
| 2 | East Wall | 17 | 6m | |||
| 3 | Thunderbolt | 11 | 4m |
Terry Svingen 9 years ago
| ||
| 4 | Scholtz's Chimney | 5 | 5m |
Terry Svingen 9 years ago
| ||
| 5 | Bastinado | 17 | 5m | |||
| 6 | Kennedy's Wall | 16 | 5m | |||
| 7 | Cling To The Crest | 15 | 5m |
Terry Svingen 9 years ago
| ||
| 8 | Jingle | 16 | 5m | |||
| 9 | Thread Belay Cracks | 11 | 7m |
Terry Svingen 9 years ago
| ||
| 10 | Rudolf Variant | 18 | 7m |
Clint Siggins 7 years ago
| ||
| 11 | Rudolf | 18 | 7m |
Clint Siggins 7 years agotopher 8 years ago
| ||
| 12 | Afterglow | 20 | 7m |
Clint Siggins 7 years ago
| ||
| 13 | Beginners Chimney | 4 | 8m |
topher 8 years ago
| ||
| 14 | Santa | 12 | 8m | |||
| 15 |
Parasite
| 14 | 9m | |||
| 16 | Donner | 19 | 9m | |||
| 17 |
Blitzen
| 16 | 9m | |||
| 18 | Collision | 20 | 8m | |||
| 19 |
Precision Wall
| 15 | 8m | |||
| 20 | Precision Wall Variant | 13 | 8m |
Terry Svingen 9 years ago
| ||
| 21 | Precision Face | 19 | 7m | |||
| 22 | Funicular Cracks | 14 | 7m |
Terry Svingen 9 years ago
| ||
| 23 | Golliwog Wall | 19 | 7m | |||
1.8. Omega Rocks 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Hibernation | 15 | 5m | |||
| 2 | Cobweb Crack | 18 | 5m | |||
