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Routes as sport in Australia

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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 1,000 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall
22 15 Feet Of Pure Steep, Bro

Fun roof climbing, past a slightly spooky block.

Starts in Nick Cave, on the right hand side past two bolts and finishes up headwall at a sling anchor.

Set by muki woods

FFA: muki woods

FA: muki woods, Jan 2018

Sport 14m, 2
Victoria North West Arapiles Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag
29 Steps Ahead

Sustained crimpiness up microscopic edges.

Fixed hangers up beautiful wall 3m R of 'Little Thor'.

FA: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1984

Sport 18m, 4
26 Hit the Deck

Originally climbed by Claw with a rest and named "Wild Drugs and Crazy Sex".

As for 'Look Sharp' to first bolt, then move left and up the wall past more bolts.

FA: Mike Law

FFA: Roland Foster, Philby & Eric Eastern Brown, 1984

Sport 18m, 4
Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall
26 Fitzroy Street

Wall 5 metres left of 'Crucifixion'. Hopelessly contrived. You can sort of make an OK 21 out of it by zigzagging left and right.

FA: Martin Grullich, 1986

Sport 12m, 5
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Pimple
Unknown bolted line

Bolted pre-86, and even then the 2nd bolt was poxy and the 3rd bolt hadn't been put in. Unsurprisingly this seems to have been completely ignored ever since.

Sport 2
Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully
Ingvars Project

Left of Astral plane

Sport
Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Cassandra Area
17 Limbo (Baby Limbo)

It may be a grade-17 sport route but the runout above the last bolt (although easy) should not be taken lightly. As for 'The Last Disco Dancer' to its third bolt. Head up L (crux) to a stance on the arête. Continue up the slab to the ledge and lower-off anchors.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, 29 Jun 2015

Sport 18m, 3
19 The Last Disco Dancer

Technically interesting climbing up the wall L of 'Cassandra'. Clip the first bolt on 'Cassandra' then veer L and up past three more bolts. The crux moves are pulling past the final bolt into a bottomless crack/pocket. A few slabby moves off L gains the ledge and the lower-off anchors.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, 29 Jun 2015

Sport 18m, 4
22 Cassandra Direct

Slippery and technical. The pikers variant to 'Pain Street'.

Start: Start up 'Cassandra'.

FA: C Peisker, 1978

Sport 23m
Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae The Flight Deck
27 Have a Good Flight Direct Start

Start as for Jetlag, 2m Left of the original but finish up HaGF instead. Still great climbing even though the Jetlag finish has been added.

FA: Kim Carigan, 1984

Sport 20m
29 Jet Lag

Start: Start left of the big corner of "Orestes", about 4m Left of It'll Never Fly.

FA: Geoff Weigand (Kim Carrigan climbed the first 8m (grade ~27) as the direct start to Have a Good Flight), 1984

Sport 25m, 8
24 It'll Never Fly

Thin steep face then traverse left to arete. Up arete (#2 BD cam) to lower-off.

Start: Just left of 'Orestes'.

FA: Mike Law, 1982

Sport 30m, 5
25 Have A Good Flight

Climb It'll Never Fly almost to arete, then cut back diagonally right and up to another bolt (exciting) then up to anchor.

Start: As for It'll Never Fly.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

Sport 25m, 6
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls
27 Exodus 2.5

At the top of the crux of 'Exodus' II, break right to a 2nd bolt (red line), then up and right to a 3rd bolt (past undercling pocket). Upon reaching the edge of the crack weakness (Copyright), cut back left via yet another boulder problem up the unlikely headwall. Sustained power.

FA: Dave Jones

Sport 20m, 4
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall
19 I Am Not A Pork Chop

Very nice, albeit short. A rare sport route at this grade at Araps. There is gear after the last bolt, but it's very easy.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, 12 Dec 2015

Sport 15m, 4
22 Cogito Ergo Wobble

Scramble R along the ledge from the block at the start of Pritchard's Neuralgia. Starts up the easy corner, can be done as a sport route but worth taking a medium cam for before the first bolt. Wild overbolting mitigates the dubious jug.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, Jan 2016

Sport 15m, 5
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress
26 Ergonomics

Needs re-bolting: Last two bolts are corroded and the last bolt sticks out of the rock quite a bit

Excellent long-overlooked addition that incorporates a direct finish to Strolling RHV. Direct line up the centre right of the buttress that would have been completely uncontroversial had it pre-dated Strolling RHV.

Sustained climbing leads up and slightly left through a bulge to a technical crux. After the 4th bolt, continue straight up on blowable slopey pockets. Do not traverse off R here if you want to bathe in the social recognition of a legitimate ascent.

Start: 3m R of Strolling.

FA: Dave Jones 2005; Dave Jones

Sport 20m, 4
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Oops boulder
30 Bliss

Two carrot bolts protect the face. Would be an amazing boulder/solo, but has not been done yet.

Sport
Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face
26 Anxiety Neurosis P2 Direct

From the chain of Anxiety P1, head straight up the arete on its right side, but instead of deviating out left in the last two-thirds (original finish), keep trucking up the arete all the way.

FA: Jill McLeod

Sport 20m
27 Anxiety Neurosis Original Line

As for AN but follow the original aid line and don't drop down to get to the arete. Bouldery.

Start: Start as for AN.

Sport 20m, 2
Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face
28 On the Prowl

The steep arête right of Missing Link following three bolts up and right into the finish of The Prow. Start 3m left of Station to Station.

FA: Gordon Poultney

Sport 20m
Nick White bolt line

The unclimbed line of bolts.

FA: Equipped Nick White, 2000

Sport
26 Veneer

Start 3m left of 'Unrequited'. Climb the face left of 'Unrequited' passing three bolts before gaining that route a few moves before it escapes right. Step left and boulder the short wall above passing a final high bolt.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

Sport 15m, 4
27 Requited

Start at the top of 'Unrequited'. Straight up the awesome headwall above 'Unrequited' past bolts, to the 'Despatched' lower-off.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Sport 35m
28 Required

Start just R of 'Unrequited'. A more fingery version of Slopin' Sleazin' perhaps?

FA: Ingvar Lidman

Sport 15m, 3
30 Expired

Link Required into Requited.

FA: Nathan Hoette

Sport
Victoria North West Arapiles Castle Crag
29 The Overtaker

Originally climbed at 31, but subsequent ascents have used the larger holds just L of the old crux.

Start: Between Siva and 'The Undertaker' is a line of bolts.

FA: Nick Sutter, 2002

Sport 18m
28 The Caretaker

Up Undertaker to about 6m, then left and up past bolts. Dave has bolted and been working on an independent start.

FA: Dave Jones, May 2013

Sport
31 Nati Dread Direct

As for 'Nati Dread', but power straight up after the lip past a new crux to rejoin the original route (finishing as for that).

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2007

Sport 25m
Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall
23 John and Betty

Popular sport route.

Start: Below the orange wall near the highest point of the arch, just R of high gully

FA: Kieran Loughran, 1992

Sport 23m, 5
Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall The Bat Cave
30 Living With a Hernia

Awesome power route taking the main line through the cave. "The best power route in Australia" (Nathan Hoette).

FA: Douglas Hockly, 2003

Sport 10m, 3
Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area New Image Wall
26 Lick the Spoon

Thin with some long moves on fantastic rock. 5 FHs to the right of Blackguard. Lower off.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Geordie Webb, 4 Nov 2016

Sport 20m, 5
Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress
31 First Blood

The blank looking beautiful buttress left of Chinese Algebra

FA: Alister Robertson, 19 Apr 2013

Sport
Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie
28 Ciela

It is a great shame that the last bolt is a blatant retrobolt of Purler, with dozens of bomber trad options right beside it. Hopefully anyone who rebolts the route (given the now-droopy hangers) will remove the last bolt and not replace it. Although perhaps less clear-cut, it is also unfortunate that Ciela's first bolt is easily clipped from Purler & Pearls Before Swine and changes the nature of those routes. Please do not climb this route during nesting season (August to December). Start beneath the hanging nose.

FA: Uwe Eder & Axl Krapf, 1995

Sport 20m
33 Somalia

Deterred many very strong suitors for many years and finally fell to the Kiwi Wizz kid

FA: Wiz Fineron, 2012

Sport
Hard Awesome Looking Project

Looks bloody desperate.

SportProject 17m, 4
25 Spasm in a Chasm

Unless they've joined into one continuous white streak by now, the white patches and ticks will show you the way. Almost certainly easier for the taller types, it's also harder now than when established because a key foothold during the traverse broke off (it's still 25 though).

Take a medium-to-large sized wire (e.g. #6 sideways or #7 WC rock) for the top (above the big jug) which inconveniently reduces the size of a key hold in a non-grade-altering way. A couple of large RP's in a seam at the start should prevent your belayer following you off the ledge in the event of falling getting to the first bolt. Otherwise, stick clip the first bolt or just don't fall.

Start: Start off the wedged boulder near the highpoint of the chasm.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1983

Sport 25m, 3
24 Disbarred

Four bolts on the wall right of spasm. Don't bridge the at the start but do bridge the finish.

FA: Gordon Poultney & Rob Oliver, 2007

Sport 15m, 4
Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall
25 Raptures of the Steep

Right-hand line on little wall with a rusty carrot. Used to have a fixed pin and two bolts but has now been rebolted. Now has 4RBs and a DRB lower off.

FA: Peter Stebbins, 1991

Sport 15m, 4
24 A Bum Full Of Fists

Originally trad, and originally started up the wide groove just left of Braindrops. When the route was sent into Argus the route name was rejected and thus never recorded. The bolts, lower-off, and direct start were added by Geoff Little in 2018.

From the ledge 12m up Lamplighter, 4m left of Braindrops. Up shallow right-facing corner past RB (20) to ledge. There's a stick clip on the ledge to clip the next bolt safely (please leave the stick there), then pull through roof seam and continue up wall past three more rings to a lower off (17m to ledge, 25m to ground).

FA: Geoff Little & Tony Dignan, 1979

Sport 17m, 5
Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area
22 Clockwork Angels

Start on low prow of rock 1m right of 'Act In Haste'.

Gambol upward to the low roof (possible low cam if desired), and clip the first bolt. From the second bolt, a blind move to the right, around the arête (for a grade 21 move right again and up 'Is It About A Bicycle?'), then head straight up with a foot on either side to clip third bolt and up to finish.

FFA: Robert Mudie, 5 Mar 2017

Sport 12m, 3
Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully
28 Smear Campaign

Start as for Lunatic, continue up the arete and then tend R. Has it's own chains.

FA: Gordon Poultney, 2010

Sport 20m, 6
Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall
32 Destroyer of the Rings

Awesome sustained face climbing linking Lord of the Rings into Zorlac the Destroyer

FA: Lee Cossey, 2015

Sport 15m
31 Lord Of The Rings Direct

Start at the weakness down right of "Wackford Squeers" and go fairly much straight up.

FA: Nick Sutter early 1990s, 2000

Sport 20m
25 Henry Bolte

Superb thin face-climbing. (#2 Wallnut after the first bolt, .75BD in the break after the 3rd bolt + a few more cams in the higher easier section to DBB) Start: Start just right of "Going For The One"

FA: Lincoln Shepherd & Mark Moorhead, 1983

Sport 30m, 3
Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Mysteries Wall
29 Honey Pot

A bolted boulder problem. The holds are generally good, but seeing as they are all vertical - guess what that means for the feet? 'Dynamic' and very powerful.

FA: Nathan Hoette

Sport 5m
29 Pooh Connection

Climbs the direct start to Pooh Sticks and links that route into Anus Horribilus. Despite being slightly contrived, a brilliant conception. Two distinct halves offering Blue Mountains like crimping to start, followed by gritty slopers.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004

Sport 30m
28 Super Pooh

Tweaky

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 17 Nov 2008

Sport 15m, 5
Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Echo Crag
21 Jesus Built My Hotrod

Originally called 'Nativity' Direct Start and poorly protected. Now retro-bolted and popular.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Fred From, 1979

Sport 15m, 4
Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Intrepid Gully
24 The Three Rings

The slightly overhanging little wall down and R of the entrance to Intrepid Gully has three ring-bolts. It's quite technical but very short so boulders' will probably just highball it at V2!

Set by Glenn Tempest

FA: Glenn Tempest, Feb 2017

Sport 12m, 2
Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Lower Curtain Wall
28 Showstopper

One very, very hard move.. hence the name.

FA: Paul Hoskins, 1999

Sport 35m, 3
Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Werewolf Area
28 The Vampire

A good find by Muki Woods finishing up the funky wall to the right of 'Werewolf'.

Start: Start as for 'Tribulation'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

Sport 18m, 8
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall
25 Panic Attacks

Start: Overhung bolted groove (22/23) leading to roof about 10m left of 'Trident'. Traverse right then hard out through roof.

Sport
23 Spinoza

The definitive word on ethics? Wall 4m R of Zola. Originally done in 2 pitches but pitch 2 is worthless and it is now a 1 pitch sport route.

Start: Start 4m down L of 'Starstruck'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1991

Sport 20m
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Sabre Gully
16 Grep

Lovely arete that is too short but good warm-up. 'Arete' leading to tree at left end of ledge below the wall.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman & Norm Booth Early., 2008

Sport 8m, 3
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Grey and Green Walls Petite Fleur Face
22 Digital Technique

Rising left leading thin face starting off boulder in middle of wall, right of small gum tree. Stick clip first bolt. 2 bolt lower off

FFA: Steve & Amanda Holloway, 24 Apr 2013

Sport 4
19 The Great Foaming Expresso Machine

Start: Start below and R of the corner, about 8m right of 'Blank Frank'. A devious approach leads to the attractive shallow corner halfway up toward the right side of the wall. Recently retro-bolted with permission of FA. 2-U belay on terrace.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 1993

Sport 15m, 3
22 Bird In The Hand

Variant finish to HTTM. Traverse left on pockets under third BR finishing up flake. Please respect the hanging oversized bonsai!

FA: Paul Geil, Jan 2014

Sport 3
21 Hot Tub Time Machine

Just right of TGFEM. Up pocketed slab passing 3 FH and finishing up flake on right. Mantle to DB lower off. Please respect the oversized bonsai!

FA: Paul Geil, Steve Holloway & Bernard Wrangle, Jan 2014

Sport 3
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall
28 Chinook

As for Sirocco pitch 2 past the first bolt (doing it's crux), then move L and up for 25m of new climbing between Seventh Banana and Sirocco to the top. You can also approach from Seventh Banana, by stepping R after doing the crux on p2.

FFA: Graeme Dick, Jun 2013

Sport 35m
Adam Demmert's Closed Project

Closed project, please stay off. Will be a mega pitch up the full height of the crag. As for Sirocco p1 until halfway across the traverse. Now head up flakes onto the blank grey wall, then head rightish to a brilliant orange scoop/arête, eventually joining Pythonesque for the last few metres. Bolts and trad.

SportProject 50m, 7
32 Orange Desire

Second Pitch to Mirage. Quentin approached from Seventh Pillar LHV via Snake in the Grass. More like 33 according to Alex Megos.

FFA: Quentin Chastagnier, 11 Apr 2013

Sport
33 Sneaky Snake

The visionary black streaks and water grooves about 5-8m R of Naja. The joke used to be that Steve Monks "marked his turf" at the top of Naja after every shot; it looks like perhaps Lee did too! Start as for Naja.Up Naja for 2 or 3 bolts then traverse right via an obvious undercling flake a few metres above the low roof. Use long (2m) extenders for this section. Now follow the incredible grooves, ignore the half-height anchor, and continue up via amazing sustained climbing on slopey edges to the top of the wall in one single mega pitch. Rap anchor (55m). Stopping after 30m at the DRB is about 29, with some tricky sideways runouts at the grade.

FA: Lee Cossey, 23 Apr 2011

Sport 55m
28 Nether

Almost completely superseded by 'Sneaky Snake', especially until the start bulge gets freed. But still worth recording, for those who can't climb 33!

Start 8m R of Naja. Stick clip and batman 5m to first bolt to bypass the blank bulge, then follow the awe-inspiring water grooves in the incredible steep sheer wall. Finish at the half-height DRB. 70m rope recommended. The low bulge has reportedly almost been freed, but will be MUCH harder - open project. In April 2013 Quentin Chastagnier tried a variant start about 5m to the left, on trad, which included a sideways downwards jump from a break to a hold on the lip!

Set by Lee Cossey

FA: Lawry Dermody, 2006

Sport 30m, 8
28 Groovy

FA: Rich Heap, 1997

Sport 25m, 6
33 Groovy (+ The Groove Train)

The original version (Groovy) takes one of Taipan's best scoop lines and is ultra classic in it's own right. The new extension (Groove Train) was briefly the hardest route on the wall and may be the best.

Start: Start 10m up L from the base of Invisible Fist. This scramble/traverse is 10m off the ground and trickier than it looks so consider belaying across.

  1. 25m (28) Groovy. Follow the disconcertingly holdless groove, deviating left around a blank bit at 15m via some crux cranks. Exciting finish well above bolt to rap anchor (30m to ground). Can feel very hard for 28 until you work it out.

  2. 20m (33) The Groove Train. Climb it in 1 pitch from the ground. The sheer face above the finish of the Groovy groove is sparsely bolted (despite a dubious retrobolt by Dave Graham ... which lasted about 5 seconds after he left) up the black streak to a lower off. Can seep. Equipped by Zac Vertrees and Mike Law (with the top lower-off added by Jake Bresnehan), this was attempted by a who's who of Australian hard-men over 7 years before Ben's success.

FA: Richard Heap (Groovy, Jan '97) & Ben Cossey (Groove Train), 16 Mar 2009

Sport 45m, 2, 10
33 Trouser Snake

Just another incredible looking line on Taipan. It's the orange streak directly above Snake Flake's anchor, climbed in a single pitch from the ground. Probably at least 2 stars but confirmation awaited from Lee.

Set by Equipped by Ben Cossey & Al Pryce late Oct 08

FA: Lee Cossey, 30 Apr 2013

Sport 48m
26 R The Invisible Fist (of Professor Hiddich Smiddich) (+ Southern Delight)
1 26
2 34

A few pieces of gear down low on the easier sections. If you use the anchor, shout AD a beer for fixing it up. Probably the most popular route on 'Taipan' - not least because of it's spoodgy grade and the quantity of shiny stainless steel!

Start: Start on the elevated ledge, just L of the top of the boulder you scrambled up, below a well-chalked slabby thin flake.

  1. Up slab to rooflet then mantle onto slab. Delicately up this to horizontal, slap the slopers, ride the horsey, monkey up the flake and dyno like a madman to lower-off (30m). Take two #5 Rocks if you can afford them.

  2. (15m, 34, 8 bolts) The extension through the bulge (bolted by Ben Cossey/Al Pryce) and up the black streak on the headwall to the top (bolted by Garry Phillips) was sent by Kilian Fischhuber on 3/8/12. As usual in this guide, this is written up as a "second pitch" so that the easier first pitch is also recorded, however the hard version is best climbed in a single 45m pitch to the top. Kilian calls this version "Southern Delight".

FA: Gordon Poultney & Chris Jones (p1 Jan 1996). Extension: Kilian Fischhuber 3/8/2012, 1996

Sport 26m, 2, 7
26 Fisting Party (Link-Up)

A link-up of The Invisible Fist into the top pitch-and-a-half of 'World Party'. One of the greatest single pitches in the universe for anyone with the stamina. 'Almost' a sport route (15 bolts) with only two medium wires being optional on the entire route.

Start: Start as for Invisible Fist. Climb Invisible Fist to the 2nd last ring, then step right (new FH) into the slopey rightwards traverse of World Party pitch 2. Finish up pitch three of World Party - the 'best 24 in the country'. Rope drag is ok if you use extenders and roller-biners appropriately, but could be horrendous if you don't.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2006

Sport 50m, 15
24 World Party Pitch 3

FA: Andy Pollit

Sport 20m
30 Sheek Naja Ket

Established after a tip-off from Jake the snake Bresnehan. "Named in honour of a great man, and possibly the best climb on the wall". Given 31 originally but has quickly been knocked down a grade.

Start: Start as for Mr J. Up most of Mr J p1 then, instead of going diagonally left past the last bolt to the cave, continue directly up. The crimpy orange wall has 4 more bolts and takes you about 4m R of Mr J p2, right to the top. A 70m rope can lower off the last bolt to the ledge - just! It's only a sport route if, like most grade 30 climbers, you skip the trad gear on Mr J.

FA: Ben Cossey & Al Pryce, 27 Oct 2008

Sport 38m, 11
34 The Old Dog

a.k.a Enter the Dragon, a.k.a. 'Mortal Combat'. This is the subtle groove about 6-8m R of Mr J's arête. "33/34" with tricky beta on both cruxes and lots of kneebar action, says Alex. Start at the DRB at the base of 'Venom'. Trend L past FH, through desperately blank looking bulge, to follow the line of anti-holds up the attractive faint groove, joining Venom at the big break. Nalle reported "8B boulder section with very precise and shoulder intensive moves, bad feet and the two worst slopers I’ve ever seen on a route. This is followed by an easier but absolutely amazing scoopy section to a pretty ok rest. From there you set up for one of the craziest dynos I’ve ever done! If you stick the low percentage dyno, there’s still a sustained run-out section with long moves to the anchor".

Set by Equipped Rich Heap, 2000

FA: 2000

FFA: Alex Megos, May 2015

Sport 18m, 6
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Spurt Wall
28 Naughty Tickle Town

The trad placement has now been retroed - silly poms can keep using the #2.5 Fr if they wish. Another new bolt has thankfully straightened the half height deviation to the right, eliminating the ridiculous tough cross-through clip of the 'Academia' bolt.

Start: Start from near the R-hand end of the bouldering traverse, about 5m R of Kaa.

FA: Richard Heap, 1996

Sport 15m, 5
31 Academia

Two cruxy bouldery moves to start then eases considerably. Stuart Wyithe originally bolted this thinking it was only going to be grade 26!

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Naughty Tickle Town'.

FA: Dave Jones, 1998

Sport 15m, 5
30 Cripple Nipple

Another absorbing steep wall on excellent rock. Julian Saunders attempted this route direct with a huge sideways dyno (thus removing his nipples!). Eventually Nathan solved the climb by bailing around this dyno crux by a big traverse right.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002

Sport 17m, 8
29 Tyranny

Gordy's finest hour! He never made it to the top - he lowered from the fourth bolt and recorded it anyway, and now it's one of the most popular routes around at this grade.

FA: Gordon Poultney, 1998

Sport 12m, 4
32 Who's a Naughty Boy?

The scene of one of the biggest dummy spits in Australian climbing history. Cruelly stolen from Gordy by a roving Garth in his youthful prime. In a fit of vengeance Gordy promptly chipped off the vital holds, removed the bolts and covered the rest of the holds with sunscreen! Nathan Hoette managed to repeat it anyway. This is the extension of 'Tyranny' past a further two FHs to rap chain.

FA: Equipped (& Un-Equipped) by Gordon Poultney. First Free Ascent by Garth Miller & then re-established after Gordy's tantrum by Nathan Hoette., 1998

Sport 20m, 6
32 Tyranny Into Lifestyling

The hardest climbing on 'Spurt Wall'. Splits after 3rd bolt of 'Tyranny' and finishes up 'Lifestyling'.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000

Sport 17m, 6
30 Lifestyling

Sustained slopy masterpiece that some reckon is the best thing on Spurt. It climbs a blazingly direct line of pockets and crimps. Typical Julian bullshit runouts to sketchy clips with the technical crux several metres above a bolt. 6 bolts.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

Sport 20m, 6
27 Not Too Bad

Underrated and sustained. Graded 27 for many years although Simon originally thought it was 28. Some people love it and some people hate it. Six u-bolts and an exciting runout at the finish. The last bolt was added ten years after the first ascent to stop a potential 14m fall!

FA: Simon Carter

Sport 18m, 6
Nathan Project 1

Another desperate project by the H man. Five cheapskate 90' hangers. Another long slopy wall climb.

FA: Equipped & worked by Nathan Hoette, 2000

Sport 17m, 5
25 Menstrual as Anything (DS)

V4 boulder problem start (stickclip) which adds an extra star to Menstrual and, since the demise of Menstrual's tree, is easily the best way to do Menstrual. Re-bolted 2013.

FA: Jake Bresnehan, 2004

Sport 18m, 7
25 Menstrual as Anything

Pretty snappy.

Start: It used to bridge up a pathetic tree ... which is now gone. A big stick clip is probably the best way to sample this original version of the route (but the newer direct start described above makes it a lot better so why not just do that). Apparently the bridging section can be climbed at very bouldery 27 or so. Yet another alternative is to boulder in from the right on pockets (grade 25 and easier if you are tall and don\'t mind broken ankles).

FA: Donna Bridge, 1994

Sport 17m, 5
26 Bottom Feeder

Up Menstrual then head right past a few more bolts, should be more popular but run out at the crux.

FA: Garry Phillips

Sport 18m
26 Nights in Venice

Start below twin pockets. Lunge to jug. 'Excellent' top crux. A climb worth a good look.

Equipped by Simon Ozolins in the mid 90s, but with a crappy start a bit further right (indicated by 15a in the topo).

Start: Start where the Menstrual tree used to be (3m R of the new Menstrual start).

FA: Kent Paterson & early, Mar 2009

Sport 16m, 8
25 Splutter

Starts 2m left of Dial-A-Lama. Stickclip first ringbolt. Bouldery start then a few good bulges, pockets and slopes before being confronted with a confounding sequence to reverse into the upper crux of Dial-A-Lama. Finish right as for that route past its last bolt to rap chain. Seven bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith & Will Monks, 2006

Sport 17m, 7
24 Dial-A-Lama

Fantastic thought provoking sloper climbing with an exciting finish. Very popular, despite being very solid for the grade. Once had a reputation for silly bolting - but has since been fixed by SCV.

FA: Martin Lama, 1995

Sport 15m, 7
27 Sticky Fingers

Climbs Garry's old project up and left from third bolt on Weak Boy past a cool boulder. Was a bolting (and glueing?) controversy, with a dodgy SIKA hold.

Start: Start as for 'Weak Boy'.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2000

FFA: Simon Young, May 2013

Sport 15m, 5
26 Weak Boy

Short + soft + bolts = popular. Climbs better than it looks. Rebolted 2013.

Start: Start 4m R of Dial-a-Lama.

FA: garry phillips

Sport 12m, 5
26 Custard Chucker

The direct version of Weaky Boy, less slopers and more pockets!

FA: Simon Young, May 2013

Sport 12m, 5
29 Fabio's Route

An old Martin Lama project that was cruelly stolen by a visiting Brit (and then named after Martin's flowing locks!).

FA: nic sellars

Sport 15m, 6
28 Spurt Girl

Very hard single crux move. 'Campus' slopy rails. One of the best 'lines' at Spurt. Four FH's. Nick Sellars tried to rename this route after some obscure Baghdad Cafe cake. The name didn't stick.

FA: Nic Sellars (UK), 1998

Sport 15m, 4
26 This Spurting Life

Soft tick if you can crimp. Bouldery climbing from start to finish. Three FH's.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994

Sport 12m, 3
22 Spurting Mildly

Warmup route of the crag. Fun scoopy moves and a nice pump. Three RB's.

FA: Simon Ozolins, 1919

Sport 12m, 3
23 Lord of the Jerks

Easy tick - more like a bolted boulder problem.

FA: Simon Ozolins, 1994

Sport 9m, 3
25 Wide World of Spurtz

Allegedly has some good moves.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994

Sport 9m, 3
23 Pussy Galore

Hard start then reachy moves on pockets. The bolts are all in the wrong places. 3 FHs.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994

Sport 8m, 3
23 I'd Rather Be Wanking

Sandy rubbish at the far right end of the crag. It has a few ok moves but the aesthetic value is very low.

FA: Simon Ozolins, 1994

Sport 8m, 3
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Lower Taipan Wall
Project (Nic Sutter)

About 10m L of 'Inkido Roof' is a line of FHs and RBs leading into an appealing orange corner/seam above the big roof, with DRB halfway up the corner where the climbing obviously eases.

Sport 15m
Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Reprisal Wall
24 Black Swan

Left most route. If you have done the other two 24s then why not finish yourself of with this one! More of the same thin face climbing. Four bolts finish at same anchors of Act of War.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2008

FFA: adam demmert, 2008

Sport 10m, 4

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