|Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall|
|22||★★ 15 Feet Of Pure Steep, Bro||14m, 2|
|Victoria North West Arapiles Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag|
|29||★★ Steps Ahead
Sustained crimpiness up microscopic edges.
Fixed hangers up beautiful wall 3m R of 'Little Thor'.
FA: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1984
|26||★★ Hit the Deck
Originally climbed by Claw with a rest and named "Wild Drugs and Crazy Sex".
As for 'Look Sharp' to first bolt, then move left and up the wall past more bolts.
FA: Mike Law
FFA: Roland Foster, Philby & Eric Eastern Brown, 1984
|Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall|
Wall 5 metres left of 'Crucifixion'. Hopelessly contrived. You can sort of make an OK 21 out of it by zigzagging left and right.
FA: Martin Grullich, 1986
|Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Pimple|
|Unknown bolted line
Bolted pre-86, and even then the 2nd bolt was poxy and the 3rd bolt hadn't been put in. Unsurprisingly this seems to have been completely ignored ever since.
|Victoria North West Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully|
Left of Astral plane
|Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae Cassandra Area|
|17||★ Limbo (Baby Limbo)
It may be a grade-17 sport route but the runout above the last bolt (although easy) should not be taken lightly. As for 'The Last Disco Dancer' to its third bolt. Head up L (crux) to a stance on the arête. Continue up the slab to the ledge and lower-off anchors.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, 29 Jun 2015
|19||★★ The Last Disco Dancer
Technically interesting climbing up the wall L of 'Cassandra'. Clip the first bolt on 'Cassandra' then veer L and up past three more bolts. The crux moves are pulling past the final bolt into a bottomless crack/pocket. A few slabby moves off L gains the ledge and the lower-off anchors.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, 29 Jun 2015
|22||★ Cassandra Direct
Slippery and technical. The pikers variant to 'Pain Street'.
Start: Start up 'Cassandra'.
FA: C Peisker, 1978
|Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae The Flight Deck|
|27||★★ Have a Good Flight Direct Start
Start as for Jetlag, 2m Left of the original but finish up HaGF instead. Still great climbing even though the Jetlag finish has been added.
FA: Kim Carigan, 1984
|29||★★ Jet Lag
Start: Start left of the big corner of "Orestes", about 4m Left of It'll Never Fly.
FA: Geoff Weigand (Kim Carrigan climbed the first 8m (grade ~27) as the direct start to Have a Good Flight), 1984
|24||★ It'll Never Fly
Thin steep face then traverse left to arete. Up arete (#2 BD cam) to lower-off.
Start: Just left of 'Orestes'.
FA: Mike Law, 1982
|25||★★★ Have A Good Flight
Climb It'll Never Fly almost to arete, then cut back diagonally right and up to another bolt (exciting) then up to anchor.
Start: As for It'll Never Fly.
FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982
|Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls|
|27||★★★ Exodus 2.5
At the top of the crux of 'Exodus' II, break right to a 2nd bolt (red line), then up and right to a 3rd bolt (past undercling pocket). Upon reaching the edge of the crack weakness (Copyright), cut back left via yet another boulder problem up the unlikely headwall. Sustained power.
FA: Dave Jones
|Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall|
|19||★ I Am Not A Pork Chop||15m, 4|
|22||★ Cogito Ergo Wobble||15m, 5|
|Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress|
Needs re-bolting: Last two bolts are corroded and the last bolt sticks out of the rock quite a bit
Excellent long-overlooked addition that incorporates a direct finish to Strolling RHV. Direct line up the centre right of the buttress that would have been completely uncontroversial had it pre-dated Strolling RHV.
Sustained climbing leads up and slightly left through a bulge to a technical crux. After the 4th bolt, continue straight up on blowable slopey pockets. Do not traverse off R here if you want to bathe in the social recognition of a legitimate ascent.
Start: 3m R of Strolling.
FA: Dave Jones 2005; Dave Jones
|Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Oops boulder|
Two carrot bolts protect the face. Would be an amazing boulder/solo, but has not been done yet.
|Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face|
|26||★★★ Anxiety Neurosis P2 Direct
From the chain of Anxiety P1, head straight up the arete on its right side, but instead of deviating out left in the last two-thirds (original finish), keep trucking up the arete all the way.
FA: Jill McLeod
|27||Anxiety Neurosis Original Line
As for AN but follow the original aid line and don't drop down to get to the arete. Bouldery.
Start: Start as for AN.
|Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face|
|28||★ On the Prowl
The steep arête right of Missing Link following three bolts up and right into the finish of The Prow. Start 3m left of Station to Station.
FA: Gordon Poultney
|Nick White bolt line
The unclimbed line of bolts.
FA: Equipped Nick White, 2000
Start 3m left of 'Unrequited'. Climb the face left of 'Unrequited' passing three bolts before gaining that route a few moves before it escapes right. Step left and boulder the short wall above passing a final high bolt.
FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009
Start at the top of 'Unrequited'. Straight up the awesome headwall above 'Unrequited' past bolts, to the 'Despatched' lower-off.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984
Start just R of 'Unrequited'. A more fingery version of Slopin' Sleazin' perhaps?
FA: Ingvar Lidman
Link Required into Requited.
FA: Nathan Hoette
|Victoria North West Arapiles Castle Crag|
|29||★ The Overtaker
Originally climbed at 31, but subsequent ascents have used the larger holds just L of the old crux.
Start: Between Siva and 'The Undertaker' is a line of bolts.
FA: Nick Sutter, 2002
Up Undertaker to about 6m, then left and up past bolts. Dave has bolted and been working on an independent start.
FA: Dave Jones, May 2013
|31||★ Nati Dread Direct
As for 'Nati Dread', but power straight up after the lip past a new crux to rejoin the original route (finishing as for that).
FA: Nathan Hoette, 2007
|Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall|
|23||★ John and Betty
Popular sport route.
Start: Below the orange wall near the highest point of the arch, just R of high gully
FA: Kieran Loughran, 1992
|Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall The Bat Cave|
|30||★★★ Living With a Hernia
Awesome power route taking the main line through the cave. "The best power route in Australia" (Nathan Hoette).
FA: Douglas Hockly, 2003
|Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area New Image Wall|
|26||★★ Lick the Spoon
Thin with some long moves on fantastic rock. 5 FHs to the right of Blackguard. Lower off.
FA: Gareth Llewellin & Geordie Webb, 4 Nov 2016
|Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress|
The blank looking beautiful buttress left of Chinese Algebra
FA: Alister Robertson, 19 Apr 2013
|Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie|
It is a great shame that the last bolt is a blatant retrobolt of Purler, with dozens of bomber trad options right beside it. Hopefully anyone who rebolts the route (given the now-droopy hangers) will remove the last bolt and not replace it. Although perhaps less clear-cut, it is also unfortunate that Ciela's first bolt is easily clipped from Purler & Pearls Before Swine and changes the nature of those routes. Please do not climb this route during nesting season (August to December). Start beneath the hanging nose.
FA: Uwe Eder & Axl Krapf, 1995
Deterred many very strong suitors for many years and finally fell to the Kiwi Wizz kid
FA: Wiz Fineron, 2012
|★ Hard Awesome Looking Project
Looks bloody desperate.
|25||★★ Spasm in a Chasm
Unless they've joined into one continuous white streak by now, the white patches and ticks will show you the way. Almost certainly easier for the taller types, it's also harder now than when established because a key foothold during the traverse broke off (it's still 25 though).
Take a medium-to-large sized wire (e.g. #6 sideways or #7 WC rock) for the top (above the big jug) which inconveniently reduces the size of a key hold in a non-grade-altering way. A couple of large RP's in a seam at the start should prevent your belayer following you off the ledge in the event of falling getting to the first bolt. Otherwise, stick clip the first bolt or just don't fall.
Start: Start off the wedged boulder near the highpoint of the chasm.
FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1983
Four bolts on the wall right of spasm. Don't bridge the at the start but do bridge the finish.
FA: Gordon Poultney & Rob Oliver, 2007
|Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall|
|25||★ Raptures of the Steep
Right-hand line on little wall with a rusty carrot. Used to have a fixed pin and two bolts but has now been rebolted. Now has 4RBs and a DRB lower off.
FA: Peter Stebbins, 1991
|24||A Bum Full Of Fists
Originally trad, and originally started up the wide groove just left of Braindrops. When the route was sent into Argus the route name was rejected and thus never recorded. The bolts, lower-off, and direct start were added by Geoff Little in 2018.
From the ledge 12m up Lamplighter, 4m left of Braindrops. Up shallow right-facing corner past RB (20) to ledge. There's a stick clip on the ledge to clip the next bolt safely (please leave the stick there), then pull through roof seam and continue up wall past three more rings to a lower off (17m to ledge, 25m to ground).
FA: Geoff Little & Tony Dignan, 1979
|Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area|
|22||★ Clockwork Angels
Start on low prow of rock 1m right of 'Act In Haste'.
Gambol upward to the low roof (possible low cam if desired), and clip the first bolt. From the second bolt, a blind move to the right, around the arête (for a grade 21 move right again and up 'Is It About A Bicycle?'), then head straight up with a foot on either side to clip third bolt and up to finish.
FFA: Robert Mudie, 5 Mar 2017
|Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully|
|28||★★ Smear Campaign
Start as for Lunatic, continue up the arete and then tend R. Has it's own chains.
FA: Gordon Poultney, 2010
|Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall|
|32||★★ Destroyer of the Rings
Awesome sustained face climbing linking Lord of the Rings into Zorlac the Destroyer
FA: Lee Cossey, 2015
|31||★★★ Lord Of The Rings Direct
Start at the weakness down right of "Wackford Squeers" and go fairly much straight up.
FA: Nick Sutter early 1990s, 2000
|25||★★★ Henry Bolte
Superb thin face-climbing. (#2 Wallnut after the first bolt, .75BD in the break after the 3rd bolt + a few more cams in the higher easier section to DBB) Start: Start just right of "Going For The One"
FA: Lincoln Shepherd & Mark Moorhead, 1983
|Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Mysteries Wall|
A bolted boulder problem. The holds are generally good, but seeing as they are all vertical - guess what that means for the feet? 'Dynamic' and very powerful.
FA: Nathan Hoette
|29||★★★ Pooh Connection
Climbs the direct start to Pooh Sticks and links that route into Anus Horribilus. Despite being slightly contrived, a brilliant conception. Two distinct halves offering Blue Mountains like crimping to start, followed by gritty slopers.
FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004
FA: Ingvar Lidman, 17 Nov 2008
|Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Echo Crag|
|21||★ Jesus Built My Hotrod
Originally called 'Nativity' Direct Start and poorly protected. Now retro-bolted and popular.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Fred From, 1979
|Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Intrepid Gully|
|24||★ The Three Rings||12m, 2|
|Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Lower Curtain Wall|
One very, very hard move.. hence the name.
FA: Paul Hoskins, 1999
|Victoria North West Arapiles Far North Werewolf Area|
|28||★ The Vampire
A good find by Muki Woods finishing up the funky wall to the right of 'Werewolf'.
Start: Start as for 'Tribulation'.
FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall|
|25||★ Panic Attacks
Start: Overhung bolted groove (22/23) leading to roof about 10m left of 'Trident'. Traverse right then hard out through roof.
FA: Kent Paterson
The definitive word on ethics? Wall 4m R of Zola. Originally done in 2 pitches but pitch 2 is worthless and it is now a 1 pitch sport route.
Start: Start 4m down L of 'Starstruck'.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1991
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Sabre Gully|
Lovely arete that is too short but good warm-up. 'Arete' leading to tree at left end of ledge below the wall.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman & Norm Booth Early., 2008
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Grey and Green Walls Petite Fleur Face|
|22||★ Digital Technique
Rising left leading thin face starting off boulder in middle of wall, right of small gum tree. Stick clip first bolt. 2 bolt lower off
FFA: Steve & Amanda Holloway, 24 Apr 2013
|19||★★ The Great Foaming Expresso Machine
Start: Start below and R of the corner, about 8m right of 'Blank Frank'. A devious approach leads to the attractive shallow corner halfway up toward the right side of the wall. Recently retro-bolted with permission of FA. 2-U belay on terrace.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 1993
|22||★★ Bird In The Hand
Variant finish to HTTM. Traverse left on pockets under third BR finishing up flake. Please respect the hanging oversized bonsai!
FA: Paul Geil, Jan 2014
|21||★ Hot Tub Time Machine
Just right of TGFEM. Up pocketed slab passing 3 FH and finishing up flake on right. Mantle to DB lower off. Please respect the oversized bonsai!
FA: Paul Geil, Steve Holloway & Bernard Wrangle, Jan 2014
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall|
As for Sirocco pitch 2 past the first bolt (doing it's crux), then move L and up for 25m of new climbing between Seventh Banana and Sirocco to the top. You can also approach from Seventh Banana, by stepping R after doing the crux on p2.
FFA: Graeme Dick, Jun 2013
|★ Adam Demmert's Closed Project
Closed project, please stay off. Will be a mega pitch up the full height of the crag. As for Sirocco p1 until halfway across the traverse. Now head up flakes onto the blank grey wall, then head rightish to a brilliant orange scoop/arête, eventually joining Pythonesque for the last few metres. Bolts and trad.
|32||★★★ Orange Desire
Second Pitch to Mirage. Quentin approached from Seventh Pillar LHV via Snake in the Grass. More like 33 according to Alex Megos.
FFA: Quentin Chastagnier, 11 Apr 2013
|33||★★★ Sneaky Snake
The visionary black streaks and water grooves about 5-8m R of Naja. The joke used to be that Steve Monks "marked his turf" at the top of Naja after every shot; it looks like perhaps Lee did too! Start as for Naja.Up Naja for 2 or 3 bolts then traverse right via an obvious undercling flake a few metres above the low roof. Use long (2m) extenders for this section. Now follow the incredible grooves, ignore the half-height anchor, and continue up via amazing sustained climbing on slopey edges to the top of the wall in one single mega pitch. Rap anchor (55m). Stopping after 30m at the DRB is about 29, with some tricky sideways runouts at the grade.
FA: Lee Cossey, 23 Apr 2011
Almost completely superseded by 'Sneaky Snake', especially until the start bulge gets freed. But still worth recording, for those who can't climb 33!
Start 8m R of Naja. Stick clip and batman 5m to first bolt to bypass the blank bulge, then follow the awe-inspiring water grooves in the incredible steep sheer wall. Finish at the half-height DRB. 70m rope recommended. The low bulge has reportedly almost been freed, but will be MUCH harder - open project. In April 2013 Quentin Chastagnier tried a variant start about 5m to the left, on trad, which included a sideways downwards jump from a break to a hold on the lip!
Set by Lee Cossey
FA: Lawry Dermody, 2006
FA: Rich Heap, 1997
|33||★★★ Groovy (+ The Groove Train)
The original version (Groovy) takes one of Taipan's best scoop lines and is ultra classic in it's own right. The new extension (Groove Train) was briefly the hardest route on the wall and may be the best.
Start: Start 10m up L from the base of Invisible Fist. This scramble/traverse is 10m off the ground and trickier than it looks so consider belaying across.
FA: Richard Heap (Groovy, Jan '97) & Ben Cossey (Groove Train), 16 Mar 2009
|45m, 2, 10|
Just another incredible looking line on Taipan. It's the orange streak directly above Snake Flake's anchor, climbed in a single pitch from the ground. Probably at least 2 stars but confirmation awaited from Lee.
Set by Equipped by Ben Cossey & Al Pryce late Oct 08
FA: Lee Cossey, 30 Apr 2013
|26 R||★★★ The Invisible Fist (of Professor Hiddich Smiddich) (+ Southern Delight)
A few pieces of gear down low on the easier sections. If you use the anchor, shout AD a beer for fixing it up. Probably the most popular route on 'Taipan' - not least because of it's spoodgy grade and the quantity of shiny stainless steel!
Start: Start on the elevated ledge, just L of the top of the boulder you scrambled up, below a well-chalked slabby thin flake.
FA: Gordon Poultney & Chris Jones (p1 Jan 1996). Extension: Kilian Fischhuber 3/8/2012, 1996
|26m, 2, 7|
|26||★★★ Fisting Party (Link-Up)
A link-up of The Invisible Fist into the top pitch-and-a-half of 'World Party'. One of the greatest single pitches in the universe for anyone with the stamina. 'Almost' a sport route (15 bolts) with only two medium wires being optional on the entire route.
Start: Start as for Invisible Fist. Climb Invisible Fist to the 2nd last ring, then step right (new FH) into the slopey rightwards traverse of World Party pitch 2. Finish up pitch three of World Party - the 'best 24 in the country'. Rope drag is ok if you use extenders and roller-biners appropriately, but could be horrendous if you don't.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2006
|24||★★★ World Party Pitch 3
FA: Andy Pollit
|30||★★★ Sheek Naja Ket
Established after a tip-off from Jake the snake Bresnehan. "Named in honour of a great man, and possibly the best climb on the wall". Given 31 originally but has quickly been knocked down a grade.
Start: Start as for Mr J. Up most of Mr J p1 then, instead of going diagonally left past the last bolt to the cave, continue directly up. The crimpy orange wall has 4 more bolts and takes you about 4m R of Mr J p2, right to the top. A 70m rope can lower off the last bolt to the ledge - just! It's only a sport route if, like most grade 30 climbers, you skip the trad gear on Mr J.
FA: Ben Cossey & Al Pryce, 27 Oct 2008
|34||The Old Dog
a.k.a Enter the Dragon, a.k.a. 'Mortal Combat'. This is the subtle groove about 6-8m R of Mr J's arête. "33/34" with tricky beta on both cruxes and lots of kneebar action, says Alex. Start at the DRB at the base of 'Venom'. Trend L past FH, through desperately blank looking bulge, to follow the line of anti-holds up the attractive faint groove, joining Venom at the big break. Nalle reported "8B boulder section with very precise and shoulder intensive moves, bad feet and the two worst slopers I’ve ever seen on a route. This is followed by an easier but absolutely amazing scoopy section to a pretty ok rest. From there you set up for one of the craziest dynos I’ve ever done! If you stick the low percentage dyno, there’s still a sustained run-out section with long moves to the anchor".
Set by Equipped Rich Heap, 2000
FFA: Alex Megos, May 2015
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Spurt Wall|
|28||★★ Naughty Tickle Town
The trad placement has now been retroed - silly poms can keep using the #2.5 Fr if they wish. Another new bolt has thankfully straightened the half height deviation to the right, eliminating the ridiculous tough cross-through clip of the 'Academia' bolt.
Start: Start from near the R-hand end of the bouldering traverse, about 5m R of Kaa.
FA: Richard Heap, 1996
Two cruxy bouldery moves to start then eases considerably. Stuart Wyithe originally bolted this thinking it was only going to be grade 26!
Start: Starts 2m right of 'Naughty Tickle Town'.
FA: Dave Jones, 1998
|30||★ Cripple Nipple
Another absorbing steep wall on excellent rock. Julian Saunders attempted this route direct with a huge sideways dyno (thus removing his nipples!). Eventually Nathan solved the climb by bailing around this dyno crux by a big traverse right.
FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002
Gordy's finest hour! He never made it to the top - he lowered from the fourth bolt and recorded it anyway, and now it's one of the most popular routes around at this grade.
FA: Gordon Poultney, 1998
|32||★★ Who's a Naughty Boy?
The scene of one of the biggest dummy spits in Australian climbing history. Cruelly stolen from Gordy by a roving Garth in his youthful prime. In a fit of vengeance Gordy promptly chipped off the vital holds, removed the bolts and covered the rest of the holds with sunscreen! Nathan Hoette managed to repeat it anyway. This is the extension of 'Tyranny' past a further two FHs to rap chain.
FA: Equipped (& Un-Equipped) by Gordon Poultney. First Free Ascent by Garth Miller & then re-established after Gordy's tantrum by Nathan Hoette., 1998
|32||★★ Tyranny Into Lifestyling
The hardest climbing on 'Spurt Wall'. Splits after 3rd bolt of 'Tyranny' and finishes up 'Lifestyling'.
FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000
Sustained slopy masterpiece that some reckon is the best thing on Spurt. It climbs a blazingly direct line of pockets and crimps. Typical Julian bullshit runouts to sketchy clips with the technical crux several metres above a bolt. 6 bolts.
FA: Julian Saunders, 2000
|27||★★ Not Too Bad
Underrated and sustained. Graded 27 for many years although Simon originally thought it was 28. Some people love it and some people hate it. Six u-bolts and an exciting runout at the finish. The last bolt was added ten years after the first ascent to stop a potential 14m fall!
FA: Simon Carter
|Nathan Project 1
Another desperate project by the H man. Five cheapskate 90' hangers. Another long slopy wall climb.
FA: Equipped & worked by Nathan Hoette, 2000
|25||★★ Menstrual as Anything (DS)
V4 boulder problem start (stickclip) which adds an extra star to Menstrual and, since the demise of Menstrual's tree, is easily the best way to do Menstrual. Re-bolted 2013.
FA: Jake Bresnehan, 2004
|25||★★ Menstrual as Anything
Start: It used to bridge up a pathetic tree ... which is now gone. A big stick clip is probably the best way to sample this original version of the route (but the newer direct start described above makes it a lot better so why not just do that). Apparently the bridging section can be climbed at very bouldery 27 or so. Yet another alternative is to boulder in from the right on pockets (grade 25 and easier if you are tall and don\'t mind broken ankles).
FA: Donna Bridge, 1994
|26||★ Bottom Feeder
Up Menstrual then head right past a few more bolts, should be more popular but run out at the crux.
FA: Garry Phillips
|26||★★ Nights in Venice
Start below twin pockets. Lunge to jug. 'Excellent' top crux. A climb worth a good look.
Equipped by Simon Ozolins in the mid 90s, but with a crappy start a bit further right (indicated by 15a in the topo).
Start: Start where the Menstrual tree used to be (3m R of the new Menstrual start).
FA: Kent Paterson & early, Mar 2009
Starts 2m left of Dial-A-Lama. Stickclip first ringbolt. Bouldery start then a few good bulges, pockets and slopes before being confronted with a confounding sequence to reverse into the upper crux of Dial-A-Lama. Finish right as for that route past its last bolt to rap chain. Seven bolts.
FA: Neil Monteith & Will Monks, 2006
Fantastic thought provoking sloper climbing with an exciting finish. Very popular, despite being very solid for the grade. Once had a reputation for silly bolting - but has since been fixed by SCV.
FA: Martin Lama, 1995
|27||★ Sticky Fingers
Climbs Garry's old project up and left from third bolt on Weak Boy past a cool boulder. Was a bolting (and glueing?) controversy, with a dodgy SIKA hold.
Start: Start as for 'Weak Boy'.
FA: Garry Phillips, 2000
FFA: Simon Young, May 2013
|26||★ Weak Boy
Short + soft + bolts = popular. Climbs better than it looks. Rebolted 2013.
Start: Start 4m R of Dial-a-Lama.
FA: garry phillips
|26||★ Custard Chucker
The direct version of Weaky Boy, less slopers and more pockets!
FA: Simon Young, May 2013
|29||★★ Fabio's Route
An old Martin Lama project that was cruelly stolen by a visiting Brit (and then named after Martin's flowing locks!).
FA: nic sellars
|28||★★ Spurt Girl
Very hard single crux move. 'Campus' slopy rails. One of the best 'lines' at Spurt. Four FH's. Nick Sellars tried to rename this route after some obscure Baghdad Cafe cake. The name didn't stick.
FA: Nic Sellars (UK), 1998
|26||★★ This Spurting Life
Soft tick if you can crimp. Bouldery climbing from start to finish. Three FH's.
FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994
|22||★ Spurting Mildly
Warmup route of the crag. Fun scoopy moves and a nice pump. Three RB's.
FA: Simon Ozolins, 1919
|23||★ Lord of the Jerks
Easy tick - more like a bolted boulder problem.
FA: Simon Ozolins, 1994
|25||★ Wide World of Spurtz
Allegedly has some good moves.
FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994
|23||★ Pussy Galore
Hard start then reachy moves on pockets. The bolts are all in the wrong places. 3 FHs.
FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994
|23||I'd Rather Be Wanking
Sandy rubbish at the far right end of the crag. It has a few ok moves but the aesthetic value is very low.
FA: Simon Ozolins, 1994
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Lower Taipan Wall|
|Project (Nic Sutter)
About 10m L of 'Inkido Roof' is a line of FHs and RBs leading into an appealing orange corner/seam above the big roof, with DRB halfway up the corner where the climbing obviously eases.
|Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Reprisal Wall|
|24||★ Black Swan
Left most route. If you have done the other two 24s then why not finish yourself of with this one! More of the same thin face climbing. Four bolts finish at same anchors of Act of War.
FA: Adam Demmert, 2008
FFA: adam demmert, 2008