Routes as sport in Australia

Tiny crimps. Short and sweet.

Short and balancy. will be Ok once the moss wears off a bit! Hard 21.

An exciting excursion and esiest line through the big roof. Start as for Myopia and follow the line of bolts right and up the headwall.

The first slabby half of 'Panthera' finishing below the chossy cave. Quality marbled rock all the way but without traffic it gets sand from above on the holds.

The Mosquito Slap of New Nowra - an epic wall with some sections of choss, but very well bolted. First 3 bolts of Tiger Tales then traverse left and up marbled wall on excellent rock to first set of anchors. Continue up steep and exposed right side of chossy cave to final pumpy juggy finish as for Tiger Tales. Watch rope length on lower-off!

Start: 2m right in gully finishing on New Nowra is Old News anchors.

On left hand arete of turtle wall, laybacking the crack to start and some nice climbing with an exciting finish.

Tough line finishing on the lip of the first cave. Up past 3 bolts then move out left and then straight out roof.

Start up Omega Free and traverse through Ados route and fishermans basket to anchors of Tartar.

Start as for Cenotaph Corner Down Under, swing out right on large jug, clip the first bolt with the hanger then straight up using the pockets someone just put there for this climb, passing two carrots to the top.

Start on left side of wall and head up rightward past 4 bolts to anchors

Right end of main wall, up next to crack with chockstones, trending slightly left when it gets steep at 4 th bolt. Through short roof onto head wall to DBB. Can be done direct at harder grade.

The left side of the arete to LGS. Climbs quite differently, then share final 2 bolts to anchor of MOL

John Wildes route starting from ledge into offwidth and then up overhanging arete

Just right of New Nowra is Old News. Straight up.

Runs through left edge of cavelet. Straight up to ring lower-offs.

Start from ledge to left of La Sancta Wall. Up corner then traverse left to arete and delicately up, traverse left to anchors.

Go up from belay on P1. Turn roof with the aid of the left crack.

Start as for CoF for 3 Bolts then head up right through step wall

Climb TT for 2 bolts then steep left onto Orange section. Head up past three more bolts to anchors.

2m right of MP Bouldery start.

Blinded by the White direct finish with a really long span from good pocket to sidecling. Not yet bolted but worked on top-rope. Will be in the high 20s.

Amazing limestone like pockets makes for some very cool climbing. Start left of hanging garden. Juggy steep start rightwards to sequency magic pockets. After these crank bulge then final pumpy headwall on large pockets and crimps. Amazing all the way.

Very unique for sandstone and quite sustained. Lots of great holds - the top half is French limestone like solution pockets, all facing downwards! Bouldery start over the undercut, then up the orange rock on flaky pockets to horizontal. Left and up into the perfect pockets with some incredible undercling moves to gain the steep juggy orange jugs to finish out right. Suffers from heavy seepage on one hold near the top of the route.

Not yet bolted, but looks about 28ish.

Hard campus start mounting undercut, then thin moves to bigger pockets. Head right up tasty orange slots to arete. For the full tick climb past the anchors using sneaky knee-bar to higher hold on arete (anchor should have been here). Backjump to anchor.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Pocket Rocket'

Immaculate rock and a slick slopey crux. Stem up tree for a metre to gain rock then take left line of bolts up very nice pocketed grey wall to blankness and big bolt. Sneak left to find hidden pocket, fiffle with some sketchy feet then back right to big sloper pocket. Long move then finish up orange bulge. If you lower-off the big bolt at the half-way point its a classic grade 16.

Great face climbing on crimps and pockets. Middle line of bolts on this wall, starting as for Lost for Profit. Lower off single large u-bolt when the rock turns blank.

Black pockets to gain slab - then right line of bolts to hit left end of roof crack. Jam up corner crack and finish with powerful sloper mantle finale on gorgeous orange rock.

Start: Starts 10m right of 'Pocket Rocket' right of the big tree.

Batman Start 4m left of Evil E. A Pumper! Awesome!

A brief bulge and then it is slab city. Remember, friends don't let friends do slabs!

A couple of metres L of LFTS. Little run out at top, on jugs. 11 RBs.

Bouldery start into monkey puzzle.

Extension of 'Tunnel to Caracas' .

Climb all of 'Tunnel to Caracas' then continue up the seam above to join into 'Fat and Sassy' just before it takes the left fork in the seam. Finish up the runout top section of 'Fat and Sassy' to the top of the cave.

Rebolted / made sane in 2017. This is a great line & deserves repeats!

Climbs the arête on the left of the 'Kidney Cave' face. Start between a small tree and an old tree trunk. Up to ledge on left then straight up arête to an interesting top out. Step across the void and scramble up a few metres to state forest installed mega ringbolts.

Straight up the steep orange face. Climb carefully through the loose rock at the start before encountering some bouldery sequences on the steep wall. Big moves lead out left, before moving back right to the final bolt and a hard topout. 5 ringbolts, finish on the same platform as 'Future History'.

5m right of 'Sun Dew' and right of major corner. Boulder over the undercut, up the jugs then traverse right across steep face to punchy finish. 'Fantastic' rock.

Start: Behind the big boulder. Scramble up a few metres then up the nice twin cracks to a big ledge. Up the wall above (3 manky BRs) to a big chossy cave. Up the inside of the cave and over the top. Tree belay. FAR: Tony Burns, Andrew Barker 17/02/2007

Start up the obvious easiest line as for Corner From Hell then wandering right at one third height and balance up the headwall, joining Chicken.

The right hand route. Sweet moves to good rest then bouldery crux... awesome

Start from the left side of the wall. Move right on good holds to big dyno then tough moves to the top...stay out of the cave!!

Start 2 metres right of Little Wednesday. A few compression moves lead to a steep rib. Finish as LW.

The holds bite. A crimper problem to an easy finish up the slab. Quite good.

Start at the only breach of the roof 5m left of Supernova. Fun and pumpy climbing with a punchy start. Climb the roof then follow the direct line to the top.

Technical slab climbing. Start 10m left of Boogie Nights. Route has two holes in the bulge up high. Climb slab to tricky mid section then bulge above.

Watch the top out! A super route on gritty edges. To start, scramble up to the double fixed hangers, right of 'Curse of the Bilby'.

Your rope might get chewed to shreds when you lower off if you don't extend the anchor.

New wave testpiece. Excellent sustained face climbing. 7 bolts to fixed biner lower off. The resident lunch-stealing critter is actually a bandicoot, not a bilby!

A subtle jigsaw of movement.

Eat your spinach for the top!

Great climbing with shade in the morning and sun in the afternoon. Lots of bolts and plenty of stylish moves. Hard for the grade!

Steep problem tending right then up. Mostly 19-21 moves with a single 23 sequence near the beginning. Very stylish climbing.

On the left side of the crag coming down the stairs, third route along. Nice rock in the sun all day, and out of the wind! Good bit of winter rock!

Right of the hand crack, feel free to use it

Fingery start to same anchors as FM

Up past side pulls and long move to jug. More easily up orange rock

clip the anchors of route on carrots and keep going up the steep wall on RBs

Starts 2m left of My Brothers Keeper. Stickclip high first bolt. Climbs the steep rock on rings to shared anchor with MBK.

1m right of offwidth and up to share anchors. Unfortunately the easiest way to the anchors is via the offwidth after the last bolt.

Start 4m right of offwidth. Up to pocket then nice moves to break and slopers and hidden holds to top out. Anchors up slab. Take two 4m slings to top rope or rap off

Up crack to ledge, pull up onto wall, over edge to juggy slab. Struggle boltplates onto oversized bolts and veer left to TBB.

Start at the sheoak stump onto large boulder on ledge and top out to rap anchor

To the left of the high cave. Up to ledge then slopers to top out to shared rap anchor

Thin holds to slopy mantle, finish just above horizontal ledge

Short, sharp, bouldery arête on the Guns, Germs and Steel block at the mouth of the dark chasm. Has two bolts and a single bolt lower-off that looks a little rusty as of 2021...

Original description: Around left from Bindun in a small dark chasm.

Just R again. Face route up pillar on bolts next to good gear. Up past break to small sickle-crack (sling), then to ledge. Finish as for Anaconda. A great lead.

2m R is a detached leaning pillar with bolts. Use stick or bridge tree to clip first of three FH's, but start directly from ground. Blast directly up the pillar past two FH's to break (small SLCD). Clip the final FH, then crank up and R to top out.

1.5m R. Contrived, but a bit of fun. The pillar with a FH. The committing crux above the bolt must be climbed direct! Scramble down R.

Un-climbed open project. FH on the main face lead the way up a slightly over hanging, blank looking face, following a faint seam feature. No DBB.

Not the best route. The arete 1m R of EP, and just L of PP. Up a hard move to a stance and the first of 2 carrot bolts. Take a deep breath, and flail up the arete on extremely thin holds, and balancy moves. The second bolt is extremely hard to clip, and a fall at this point would result in truckloads of pain! From there continue with difficulty to the top. Not Douglas's finest hour.

Really good climbing, a pity about the gear. Start on the ledge above SOH. Off-balance moves up a L leaning seam get you to a stance and a very lonely carrot bolt. From there sequency and thin moves see you to the top. Easier if you reach around to the R. Potential for a very effective deck-out if you fall from near the top. A good candidate for top roping.

Classy climbing up a visionary line. Go up the broken corner R of NR, to some rooflets. Past these on the left, passing bolts. From here, veer up and L (nut possible), then begin angling diagonally to the arete. From there, veer L to the top on super thin holds, and quite exposed climbing.

This brutal and sustained tendon destroyer features some of the sharpest and thinnest crimpers on the cliff. Step onto the L side of the large blank wall to the L of EF. Follow the line of bolts up the face to the top.

Up the arete At arete on the right hand side of the compact wall Thug to block, pull through on finger jugs to balancy finish

Use the crack to gain the first bolt. Make a long reach left to great pockets and finish on jugs to the top. Over too soon. Start just left of the crack.

A real waste of 2 bolts. Start up the same arete as BS. Clip the first bolt of BS, then up the poxy little line to another bolt. Step R and get off as soon as you can.

A fun little climb whose holds definitely live up to their name. Start at the fixed hanger on the arete, then step out L passing another FH on the way up. Top out easily to the 2-bolt anchor. Rap or solo off the back to get down.

Layback up the curved flake to ledge and small overhang. Continue easily to the top

Clip the bolts and up and away like a monkey who likes a little moss and technical fun.

Start: get up to the break, place a cam if you think it needs it

Not a bad easier route. Up the white wall passing four RBs to big ledge (with double bolt belay).

Climbs the biggest section of roof. Access similar to TSAOT - rap down the R arête of the roof (facing out) to ledge, then walk 2m under the roof to RB belay station down low. Up start wall past three RB’s to roof. Reachy clip to RB in roof, then power to lip. Two RB’s on headwall then a loose finish. Tree belay.

Start at Pendulus belay, clip first ring on P and then up corner to roof. Scrunch up into the foetal position as you make your way out to the rocker blocker, try not to pull the block off into your lap whilst you pull the lip, blast up shallow chimney to top. Use extra long draws to avoid rope drag. All bolts.

Lovely climbing. See topo 4. Start at short corner a couple of metres R of M.

The part of Hell reserved for the punishment of the wicked. To access, climb Cerberus, or rap in. Belay off RB and #2 SLCD. From the ledge, blast up the wall in a spectacular position past three RB’s to tree belay. Scramble R to top.

Starts at 'ground level' in the alcove directly below the fixed rope traverse Two bolts to rap station.

Starts at 'ground level' in the alcove directly below the fixed rope traverse Up face passing four bolts. Traverse to weakness in roof and FH. Over roof past another bolt and onto rap station.

Starts at 'ground level' in the alcove directly below the fixed rope traverse Up face a little to the left of 'Wax On Wax Off'. Clip a carrot in the small hollow then finish up 'Wax On Wax Off'. Pretty contrived, but fun.

Starts at 'ground level' in the alcove directly below the fixed rope traverse Quite nice for the grade. Up the arete past two carrots and onto slab. Clip another carrot before stepping onto the face to the right and up past another 3 carrots.

One of the best routes on the cliff offering superb climbing on excellent rock. Start at double RB belay. Climbs up left side of arête passing four RB’s before switching to the right side of the arête passing another four RB’s to top.

The overhung arête 3m R. Reachy start (RB) past loose sandy stuff gives a RB and a crank to a ledge (sling). RB on L and easily to top. Belay and rap from RB station.

Quite fun. Up on pockets past a bolt to the horizontal break and another carrot. Climb the arete past another bolt to a double carrot belay on top of the boulder.

Slab (2 FH) to ledge. Climb leftwards from ledge up steep wall and arête, moving right from last bolt to the tree anchor. Classic mantle moves and an excellent position.

Climb HTT to ledge. R line up orange wall to tree anchor.

5m R of SS. Up slab (3 FH ) then roof and overhang.

From 3rd BR on proj, move R to next line of BR.

From 36degrees, follow wall R 30m past overhangs to big black wall. Route diagonals Left up wall.