Serpent Mostly Sport climbing47 routes in crag
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Serpent began as a sport crag for summer climbing, and as a testing ground for those wanting to get accustomed to steeper ground. Many of the routes rely totally on bolt protection with fixed hangers, but that does not mean that we have ignored good natural gear. Therefore a selection of medium to large wires, small to medium cams and one or two larger pieces if so required for routes like 'Minotaur' won't go astray.
A 50m rope will suffice for most of the routes, but a 60m will do all the routes while also making rapping easier. About 10 quickdraws will be heaps and a couple of shoulder length slings to reduce drag. A handful of removable keyhole hangers will also be needed, for some routes still sport a carrot or two. All routes have lower-off rap stations, although some are shared.
When you reach a lower-off, please adhere to the international silent rule and place your own carabiners/quickdraws to top rope or work a route, otherwise the fixed gear is worn out very quickly and suddenly becomes a concern. When simply rappelling or lowering just the once, by all means use the fixed gear.
The trachyte at 'Serpent' is very sound and most routes here have had plenty of traffic. The friction is good and the features quite amazing, but this is rockclimbing and a loose block or two may still be encountered, so take care.
Useful Info: This guidebook is mainly comprised of infomation from Lee Cujes & Darrin Carters Qurank Guide. Some small changes and updates of new routes have been added by Matt Schimke. Topo's coming soon.© (hotgemini)
Serpent is located in the Blackall Range, NW of Nambour. Allow two hours travel time from suburban 'Brisbane'. Driving north from 'Brisbane' on the Bruce 'Highway', take the Eumundi-Noosa Road exit. At the roundabout, take the Eumundi-Kenilworth Road and travel north alongside the main highway for a few minutes until it veers left (west). Continue along this for approximately 22km to Gheerulla State Forest (signposted). Turn left onto Sam Kelly Road (dirt).
The camping area is about two kilometres from the entrance.
To park for climbing, stop at about 1.7km at the large red gum just outside the park gate/entrance. Park in the small clearing on your right.
The walk should take around 25 minutes, give or take, depending on fitness level. Just inside the park entrance turn right and follow the track which crosses the stony creek-bed and leads to an intersection of walking track ,motorbike track and a 4WD road. Go straight ahead on a small foot-track(Do NOT follow the walker sign pointing to the left!).
Continue along the small track until you reach another intersection with a 4WD vehicle track. Turn right and walk along this dirt road for a few minutes until you see a large fallen tree with a prominent saw-cut end facing you (a few metres off the road on left side). You'll note a well-worn path leading uphill. Go up this. This track intersects with a newer, cut-in switchbacking path. If you choose to follow the switchback track (longer but easier), ensure you leave it (break left) at the green hiking-trail signpost, and keep going directly up the ridge on the original foot track. Eventually you'll spy the black rock of 'Serpent Wall'.© (hotgemini)
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