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Description

A nice area with a great variety of climbing styles and grades. A lot of the routes require stick clipping, and are bolted with this in mind.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
14 Doing Time Trad 15m

Natural pro traversing left under the flake.

FA: Darrin Carter, 2000

2

Starts just left of Crimes And Punishment and traverses left on slopers and pockets.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 1997

3

Up pocketed slab to tree with lower-off. Two FH’s and gear?? I thought there should be three bolts, but I could only find the first and last FH’s, leaving a huge runout and potential groundfall.

4
18 Cyclops p1 Sport 20m, 5

Five FH's to ledge and chains. Ledgy, awkward, but a worthy access pitch for P2.

5
24 Cyclops p2 Sport 10m, 4

A second pitch to the previous route. Four FH's. Careful on 2nd clip!

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Aaron Jones

6

Starts two metres to the left of H. Bouldery steep wall to topout. Closed.

7
21 ** Harpe Direct Sport 8m, 3

Up Harpe for the first two FH's, then up L passing a fixed wire and another FH. Doesent get much traffic, so it's a bit overgrown.

FA: Darrin Carter, 2000

8
21 Harpe Sport 6m, 4

Popular. Four FH’s protect the juggy flake traverse to lower-off. Stickclip the first. Best to clean this on second.

FA: Darrin Carter, 1997

9

At least 27, possibly harder, but still doable. Hard crank through mono crimps and small underclings until a steep upper section resolving at the anchor. Rebolted with a slight change in direction. Closed

10
25 * Loki's Mischief Sport 12m, 4

Starting L of Stingray’s cave. Four FH’s up the steep stuff. Tough start on tufa feature, with longs moves on big holds following.

FA: Simon Moses, 2000

11
22 ** Stingray p1 Sport 20m

2m left of Minotaur. Up technical chimney to rooflet. Around this and up face. FH’s. Some love it, some hate it.

FA: Darrin Carter, 1997

12
19 *** Stingray p2 Sport 30m, 6

Six FH’s to finish on grassy ledge with 3 bolts. Rap or walk off left along ledge (which leads to 'The Lookout' wall). Amazing, tricky and committing climbing. You can access it from climbing Minotaur P1 and traversing left across to starting anchor, as an easier alternative to climbing Stingray P1.

FA: Darrin Carter, 1997

13
24 * Cobra Necktie Sport 20m

Starts up Minotaur and moves left at first bolt and shoots left through the roof. Hard, long move on face above, before joinging into Stingray P1's last bolt. Anchor on ledge above.

FA: Matt Schimke

14
17 *** Minotaur p1 Sport 20m, 6

Unlikely and interesting climbing for the grade. Starts just to the left of the huge fangs and climbs the ramp onto slab above. Up passing bolts into cave. Out of cave on pockets and up slabby face to lower-off. There is a #4 cam between the 4th and 5th bolt which is optional, as well as a sling hole.

FA: Darrin Carter, 2000

15
14 Minotaur p2 Sport 15m, 2

Runout, but quite nice! Two FH’s to chains. Moves right after Minotaur P1 anchor, up into corner. Follow line of least resistance. Can just get down off a 60m rope if you linked them.

FA: Darrin Carter, 2000

16
18 * Dante's Inferno Sport 15m, 4

Extension above Minotaur, on crimpy slab. Continue straight above anchor of M passing two rings, before a tricky move out right. Two more bolts straight above to chain. You will need a 70m rope to get back to the ground.

FA: Matt Schimke, 20th Apr

17
25 ** The Gatekeeper Sport 25m

Up Minotaur to cave. Now right out cave and launch rightward along traverse line passing bolts. Trend up (crux) and right across face. Sustained, and interesting climbing the whole way.

FA: Unknown

18
27 ** You Shall Not Pass Sport 25m

Starts about 3 metres to the right of Minotaur. Easy start until you move right onto a massive rail and the crux follows. Joins into TG after 3 bolts and finishes up it. Sustained and powerful climbing.

FA: Matt Schimke, 2011

19
Roof Project Matt Sport Project

Starting at the very right hand end of chossy rock ledge. Climbs straight up on power underclings, and a crazy crux. Closed project

20
23 * Medusa Sport 15m, 3

About 15m L of The Sundog Traverse. A 45 degree overhanging line past three FH’s with a sinew-stretching final move. Harder if you’re short.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Aaron Jones, 1999

21
27 Beiser Unknown 20m

Some dodgy rock on this one, but offers some very tiny holds for you to pit your tips against. Start about 8m L of TST at the slabby crack. Rumoured to host a V7 boulder problem.

FA: Simon Moses

22
Regn Projekt Sport Project

Closed project a couple of meters left of The Sundog Traverse. Bolting not complete.

Set by Tom Kjaer-Olsen, 13th Apr

23
21 * The Sundog Traverse Sport 20m

Starts 4m L of B. Stickclip first U-bolt to protect the thin start before trending left across slab passing FH’s to stance. Now up overhanging terrain past more FHs and lower-off. Really good climbing the whole way, but mind yourself between second and third bolt.

FA: Darrin Carter, 1997

24
25 ** Zeus, You Bastard Sport 20m, 7

Start up TSDT, and head straight up on U bolts to steep wall. Bouldery sustained moves all the way till over the lip. Would be a tough onsight!

FA: Matt Schimke, Terry Forbes, 20th Jan

25
17 Berserker Sport 15m

Start as for OFP in scoop. Easily up slab to high silver FH, then L into corner. Up corner past two FH’s to chains. Apparently there is a large wire before anchor, decreasing the runout.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Erik Smits, 2005

26
13 Off With The Pixies Sport 18m, 3

Line of three FH's 4m right of TST to chains. A bit runout in parts, but otherwise has a few nice technical moves.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Denington, 1998

27
18 Arcane Secrets Mixed 12m, 3

Up the shallow groove around the corner from the main wall. Three BR’s (hard to see!) to chains. The middle one is fat and needs a bigger bracket.

FA: Darrin Carter, 1997

28
12 Bad Bolts Sport 15m

Supposedly the bolting is a bit dodgy. Beware.