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A nice area with a great variety of climbing styles and grades. A lot of the routes require stick clipping, and are bolted with this in mind.


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Grade Route
14 Doing Time Trad 15m

Natural pro traversing left under the flake. Starts just where the track starts to steep to the left. Finish over the top, passing a FH and belay from tree.

FA: Darrin Carter, 2000


Starts just left of Crimes And Punishment and traverses left on slopers and pockets.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 1997


Up pocketed slab to tree with lower-off. Two FH’s and gear?? I thought there should be three bolts, but I could only find the first and last FH’s, leaving a huge runout and potential groundfall.

18 * Cyclops p1 Sport 20m, 5

Five FH's to ledge and chains. Ledgy, awkward, but a worthy access pitch for P2. Perhaps stick clip first bolt, as the rock is a little crumbly at the start.

24 ** Cyclops p2 Sport 10m, 4

A second pitch to the previous route. Four FH's. Beautiful golden rock. Careful on 2nd clip!

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Aaron Jones


Starts two metres to the left of H. Bouldery steep wall to topout. Closed.

21 ** Harpe Direct Sport 8m, 3

Up Harpe for the first two FH's, then up L passing a fixed wire and another FH. Doesent get much traffic, so it's a bit overgrown.

FA: Darrin Carter, 2000

21 * Harpe Sport 6m, 3

Popular. Three FH’s protect the juggy flake traverse to lower-off. Stickclip the first. Best to clean this on second.

FA: Darrin Carter, 1997

28 ** Pandora's Box Sport 15m, 4

The current hardest route at Serpent. Stickclip first two bolts from chossy ledge. Hard pull onto wall, with continual bouldering which doesn't relent until you clip the anchor. Hard the entire way. Originally an old Aaron Jones project, until he broke the crux hold and deemed it to hard for the time. Many years have passed and it has finally seen a first ascent.

FA: Matt Schimke, 2014

25 ** Loki's Mischief Sport 12m, 4

Starting L of Stingray’s cave. Four FH’s up the steep stuff. Tough start on tufa feature, with longs moves on big holds following.

FA: Simon Moses, 2000

22 ** Stingray p1 Sport 20m

2m left of Minotaur. Up technical chimney to rooflet. Around this and up face. FH’s. Some love it, some hate it.

FA: Darrin Carter, 1997

19 ** Stingray p2 Sport 30m, 6

Six FH’s to finish on grassy ledge with 3 bolts. Rap or walk off left along ledge (which leads to 'The Lookout' wall). Amazing, tricky and committing climbing. You can access it from climbing Minotaur P1 and traversing left across to starting anchor, as an easier alternative to climbing Stingray P1.

FA: Darrin Carter, 1997

24 ** Cobra Necktie Sport 20m

Starts up Minotaur and moves left at first bolt and shoots left through the roof. Hard, long move on face above, before joinging into Stingray P1's last bolt. Anchor on ledge above.

FA: Matt Schimke

17 *** Minotaur p1 Sport 20m, 6

Unlikely and interesting climbing for the grade. Starts just to the left of the huge fangs (on U-bolt) and climbs the ramp onto slab above. Up passing U-bolts bolts into cave. Out of cave on pockets and up slabby face to lower-off (steel perma-biner). There is a #4 cam between the 4th and 5th bolt which is optional, as well as a perfect pocket to sling. .

FA: Darrin Carter, 2000

14 * Minotaur p2 Sport 15m, 2

Runout, but quite nice! Two FH’s to chains. Move directly right after Minotaur P1 anchor, up into corner. Follow line of least resistance. Can get down with a 70m if you link them.

FA: Darrin Carter, 2000

18 ** Dante's Inferno Sport 15m, 4

Extension above Minotaur, on crimpy slab. Continue straight above anchor of M passing two rings, before a tricky move out right. Two more bolts straight above to chain (last ringbolt is hidden about a metre left of visible FH). You will need a 70m rope to get back to the ground. .

FA: Matt Schimke, 2014

25 ** The Gatekeeper Sport 25m

Up Minotaur to cave. Now right out cave and launch rightward along traverse line passing bolts. Trend up (crux) and right across face. Sustained, and interesting climbing the whole way.

FFA: Unknown

FA: Darrin Carter, 1997

27 * You Shall Not Pass Sport 25m

Starts about 3 metres to the right of Minotaur. 1 bolt leads to steep wall. Compressive, powerful climbing follows. Joins into TG after 3 bolts and finishes up it. Sustained and powerful climbing.

FA: Matt Schimke, 2011

Roof Project Matt Sport Project

Starting at the very right hand end of chossy rock ledge. Climbs straight up on power underclings, and a crazy crux. Closed project

23 * Medusa Sport 15m, 3

About 15m L of The Sundog Traverse. A 45 degree overhanging line past three FH’s with a sinew-stretching final move. Harder if you’re short.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Aaron Jones, 1999

27 ** Beiser Sport 20m

Some dodgy rock on this one, but offers some very tiny holds for you to pit your tips against. Start just right of Medusa at the slabby crack. Stickclip first bolt from chossy ledge. Hard pull straight away to chossy jugs above. Continue on thin holds (crux) culminating with some pumpy wall climbing to anchor above on ledge. The choss just below of the third bolt needs some maintenance (polyester glue smared around the parts that are crumbling).

FA: Simon Moses

Regn Projekt (closed) Sport Project 18m, 5

Closed project a couple of meters left of 'The Sundog Traverse'.

Set by Tom Kjaer-Olsen, 2014

21 * The Sundog Traverse Sport 20m

Starts 4m L of B. Stickclip first U-bolt to protect the thin start before trending left across slab passing FH’s to stance. Now up overhanging terrain (on the right line of bolts) past more FHs and lower-off above on ledge. Really good climbing the whole way, but mind yourself between second and third bolt. Anchor could use a rebolt.

FA: Darrin Carter, 1997

25 ** Zeus, You Bastard Sport 20m, 7

Start up TSDT, and head straight up on U bolts to steep wall. Bouldery, sustained moves all the way to last bolt. Pull past the pumpy top out to anchor straight above.

FA: Matt Schimke & Terry Forbes, 2014

17 * Berserker Sport 15m

Start as for OFP in scoop. Easily up slab to high silver FH, then L into corner. Up corner past two FH’s to chains. Apparently there is a large wire before anchor, decreasing the runout.

FA: Lee Skidmore & Erik Smits, 2005

13 * Off With The Pixies Sport 18m, 3

Line of three FH's 4m right of TST to chains. A bit runout in parts, but otherwise has a few nice technical moves.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Denington, 1998

18 * Arcane Secrets Mixed 12m, 3

Up the shallow groove around the corner from the main wall. Three BR’s (hard to see!) to chains. The middle one is fat and needs a bigger bracket.

FA: Darrin Carter, 1997

12 Bad Bolts Sport 15m

Supposedly the bolting is a bit dodgy. Beware.


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