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Serpent Wall 24 routes in Area

  • Avg. Height: 16m
  • Style: Sport,Trad and other styles
  • Approach time: 20
  • Favorites: 1
  • Ascents: 313

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Description:

A nice area with a great variety of climbing styles and grades. Still much more room for development for the strong.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Doing Time

Natural pro traversing left under the flake.

FA: Darrin Carter, 2000

14
Trad 15m
2 Very Delicious Cheesecakes

Starts just left of Crimes And Punishment and traverses left on slopers and pockets.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 1997

V3
Boulder 10m
3 Crimes And Punishment

Up pocketed slab to tree with lower-off. Two FH’s and gear?? I thought there should be three bolts, but I could only find the first and last FH’s, leaving a huge runout and potential groundfall.

16
Trad 15m
4 Cyclops p1

Five FH's to ledge and chains.

18
Sport 20m , 5
5 Cyclops p2

A second pitch to the previous route. Four FH's. Careful on 2nd clip!

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Aaron Jones,

24
Unknown 10m , 4
6 ** Harpe Direct

Up Harpe for the first two FH?s, then up L passing a fixed wire and another FH. Doesent get much traffic, so it's a bit overgrown.

FA: Darrin Carter, 2000

21
Sport 8m , 3
7 Harpe

Popular. Four FH’s protect the juggy flake traverse to lower-off. Stickclip the first.

FA: Darrin Carter, 1997

21
Sport 6m , 4
8 Pandora's Box

At least 27, possibly harder, but still doable. Hard crank through mono crimps and small underclings until a steep upper section resolving at the anchor.

Unknown Project 15m
9 * Loki's Mischief

Starting L of Stingray’s cave. Four FH’s up the steep stuff. Tough start.

FA: Simon Moses, 2000

25
Sport 12m , 4
10 ** Stingray p1

10m L of H. Up technical chimney to rooflet. Around this and up face. FH’s.

FA: Darrin Carter, 1997

22
Sport 20m
11 ** Stingray p2

Six FH’s to finish on grassy ledge with 3 bolts. Rap. This pitch is the standout one.

FA: Darrin Carter, 1997

19
Sport 30m , 6
12 ** Cobra Necktie

Starts up Minotaur and shoots left through the roof and up face above. Finishes at Stingray's anchor.

FA: Matt Schimke,

24
Sport 20m
13 *** Minotaur p1

Unlikely and interesting climbing for the grade. Starts just to the left of the huge fangs and climbs the ramp onto slab above. Up passing bolts into cave. Out of cave on pockets and up slabby face to lower-off. There is a #4 cam between the 4th and 5th bolt which is optional, as well as a sling.

FA: Darrin Carter, 2000

17
Sport 20m , 6
14 Minotaur p2

Runout, but quite nice! Two FH’s to chains. Can just get down off a 60m rope if you linked them.

FA: Darrin Carter, 2000

14
Sport 15m , 2
RouteGradeStylePopularity
15 Gatekeeper

Up Minotaur to cave. Now right out cave and launch rightward along traverse line passing bolts. Trend up (crux) and up face.

25
Sport 25m
16 ** You Shall Not Pass

Starts about 3 metres to the right of Minotaur. Easy start until you move right onto a massive rail and the crux follows. Joins into TG after 3 bolts and finishes up it. Sustained and powerful climbing.

FA: Matt Schimke, 2011

27
Sport 15m
17 Roof Project Matt

Starting at the very right hand end of chossy rock ledge. Climbs straight up on power underclings, and a crazy crux. Closed project

Sport Project
18 * Medusa

About 15m L of The Sundog Traverse. A 45 degree overhanging line past three FH’s with a sinew-stretching final move. Harder if you’re short.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Aaron Jones, 1999

23
Sport 15m , 3
19 Beiser

Some dodgy rock on this one, but offers some very tiny holds for you to pit your tips against. Start about 8m L of TST at the slabby crack.

FA: Simon Moses,

27
Unknown 20m
20 * The Sundog Traverse

Starts 4m L of B. Boldly up to BR (needs large bolt plate) and trend left across slab passing FH’s to stance. Now up overhanging terrain past more FHs and lower-off.

FA: Darrin Carter, 1997

21
Sport 20m
21 Berserker

Start as for OFP in scoop. Easily up slab to high silver FH, then L into corner. Up corner past two FH’s to chains.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Erik Smits, 2005

17
Sport 15m
22 Off With Pixies / Off With The Pixies

Line of four FH's 4m R of TST to chains. A bit runout in parts.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Denington, 1998

13
Sport 18m , 3
23 Arcane Secrets

Up the shallow groove around the corner from the main wall. Three BR’s (hard to see!) to chains. The middle one is fat and needs a bigger bracket.

FA: Darrin Carter, 1997

18
Mixed 12m , 3
24 Bad Bolts

Supposedly the bolting is a bit dodgy. Beware.

12
Sport 15m