A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Serpent Wall 28 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 152.783260, -26.574251

Description:

A nice area with a great variety of climbing styles and grades. A lot of the routes require stick clipping, and are bolted with this in mind.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Doing Time

Natural pro traversing left under the flake. Starts just where the track starts to steep to the left. Finish over the top, passing a FH and belay from tree.

FA: Darrin Carter, 2000

14Trad 15m
2 Very Delicious Cheesecakes

Starts just left of Crimes And Punishment and traverses left on slopers and pockets.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 1997

V3Boulder 10m
3 Crimes And Punishment

Up pocketed slab to tree with lower-off. Two FH’s and gear?? I thought there should be three bolts, but I could only find the first and last FH’s, leaving a huge runout and potential groundfall.

16Trad 15m
4 Cyclops p1

Five FH's to ledge and chains. Ledgy, awkward, but a worthy access pitch for P2. Perhaps stick clip first bolt, as the rock is a little crumbly at the start.

18Sport 20m, 5
5 ** Cyclops p2

A second pitch to the previous route. Four FH's. Beautiful golden rock. Careful on 2nd clip!

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Aaron Jones

24Sport 10m, 4
6 Priapus (Closed Project)

Starts two metres to the left of H. Bouldery steep wall to topout. Closed.

Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 ** Harpe Direct

Up Harpe for the first two FH's, then up L passing a fixed wire and another FH. Doesent get much traffic, so it's a bit overgrown.

FA: Darrin Carter, 2000

21Sport 8m, 3
8 * Harpe

Popular. Four FH’s protect the juggy flake traverse to lower-off. Stickclip the first. Best to clean this on second.

FA: Darrin Carter, 1997

21Sport 6m, 4
9 ** Pandora's Box

The current hardest route at Serpent. Stickclip first two bolts from chossy ledge. Hard pull onto wall, with continual bouldering which doesn't relent until you clip the anchor. Hard the entire way. Originally an old Aaron Jones project, until he broke the crux hold and deemed it to hard for the time. Many years have passed and it has finally seen an first ascent.

FA: Matt Schimke, 27th May

28Sport 15m, 4
10 * Loki's Mischief

Starting L of Stingray’s cave. Four FH’s up the steep stuff. Tough start on tufa feature, with longs moves on big holds following.

FA: Simon Moses, 2000

25Sport 12m, 4
11 ** Stingray p1

2m left of Minotaur. Up technical chimney to rooflet. Around this and up face. FH’s. Some love it, some hate it.

FA: Darrin Carter, 1997

22Sport 20m
12 *** Stingray p2

Six FH’s to finish on grassy ledge with 3 bolts. Rap or walk off left along ledge (which leads to 'The Lookout' wall). Amazing, tricky and committing climbing. You can access it from climbing Minotaur P1 and traversing left across to starting anchor, as an easier alternative to climbing Stingray P1.

FA: Darrin Carter, 1997

19Sport 30m, 6
13 ** Cobra Necktie

Starts up Minotaur and moves left at first bolt and shoots left through the roof. Hard, long move on face above, before joinging into Stingray P1's last bolt. Anchor on ledge above.

FA: Matt Schimke

24Sport 20m
14 *** Minotaur p1

Unlikely and interesting climbing for the grade. Starts just to the left of the huge fangs (on U-bolt) and climbs the ramp onto slab above. Up passing U-bolts bolts into cave. Out of cave on pockets and up slabby face to lower-off (steel perma-biner). There is a #4 cam between the 4th and 5th bolt which is optional, as well as a perfect pocket to sling. .

FA: Darrin Carter, 2000

17Sport 20m, 6
15 Minotaur p2

Runout, but quite nice! Two FH’s to chains. Move directly right after Minotaur P1 anchor, up into corner. Follow line of least resistance. Can get down with a 70m if you link them.

FA: Darrin Carter, 2000

14Sport 15m, 2
16 ** Dante's Inferno

Extension above Minotaur, on crimpy slab. Continue straight above anchor of M passing two rings, before a tricky move out right. Two more bolts straight above to chain (last ringbolt is hidden about a metre left of visible FH). You will need a 70m rope to get back to the ground. .

FA: Matt Schimke, 20th Apr

18Sport 15m, 4
17 ** The Gatekeeper

Up Minotaur to cave. Now right out cave and launch rightward along traverse line passing bolts. Trend up (crux) and right across face. Sustained, and interesting climbing the whole way.

FA: Unknown

25Sport 25m
18 ** You Shall Not Pass

Starts about 3 metres to the right of Minotaur. 1 bolt leads to steep wall. Compressive, powerful climbing follows. Joins into TG after 3 bolts and finishes up it. Sustained and powerful climbing.

FA: Matt Schimke, 2011

27Sport 25m
19 Roof Project Matt

Starting at the very right hand end of chossy rock ledge. Climbs straight up on power underclings, and a crazy crux. Closed project

Sport Project
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
20 * Medusa

About 15m L of The Sundog Traverse. A 45 degree overhanging line past three FH’s with a sinew-stretching final move. Harder if you’re short.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Aaron Jones, 1999

23Sport 15m, 3
21 ** Beiser

Some dodgy rock on this one, but offers some very tiny holds for you to pit your tips against. Start just right of Medusa at the slabby crack. Stickclip first bolt from chossy ledge. Hard pull straight away to chossy jugs above. Continue on thin holds (crux) culminating with some pumpy wall climbing to anchor above on ledge. The choss just below of the third bolt needs some maintenance (polyester glue smared around the parts that are crumbling).

FA: Simon Moses

27Sport 20m
22 Regn Projekt (closed)

Closed project a couple of meters left of 'The Sundog Traverse'.

Set by Tom Kjaer-Olsen, 13th Apr

Sport Project 18m, 5
23 * The Sundog Traverse

Starts 4m L of B. Stickclip first U-bolt to protect the thin start before trending left across slab passing FH’s to stance. Now up overhanging terrain (on the right line of bolts) past more FHs and lower-off above on ledge. Really good climbing the whole way, but mind yourself between second and third bolt. Anchor could use a rebolt.

FA: Darrin Carter, 1997

21Sport 20m
24 ** Zeus, You Bastard

Start up TSDT, and head straight up on U bolts to steep wall. Bouldery, sustained moves all the way to last bolt. Pull past the pumpy top out to anchor straight above.

FA: Matt Schimke, Terry Forbes, 2014

25Sport 20m, 7
25 Berserker

Start as for OFP in scoop. Easily up slab to high silver FH, then L into corner. Up corner past two FH’s to chains. Apparently there is a large wire before anchor, decreasing the runout.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Erik Smits, 2005

17Sport 15m
26 Off With The Pixies

Line of three FH's 4m right of TST to chains. A bit runout in parts, but otherwise has a few nice technical moves.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, Ross Denington, 1998

13Sport 18m, 3
27 Arcane Secrets

Up the shallow groove around the corner from the main wall. Three BR’s (hard to see!) to chains. The middle one is fat and needs a bigger bracket.

FA: Darrin Carter, 1997

18Mixed 12m, 3
28 Bad Bolts

Supposedly the bolting is a bit dodgy. Beware.

12Sport 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
12 Bad Bolts Sport 15m
13 Off With The Pixies Sport 18m, 3
14 Doing Time Trad 15m
Minotaur p2 Sport 15m, 2
16 Crimes And Punishment Trad 15m
17 Berserker Sport 15m
*** Minotaur p1 Sport 20m, 6
18 Arcane Secrets Mixed 12m, 3
Cyclops p1 Sport 20m, 5
** Dante's Inferno Sport 15m, 4
19 *** Stingray p2 Sport 30m, 6
21 * Harpe Sport 6m, 4
** Harpe Direct Sport 8m, 3
* The Sundog Traverse Sport 20m
22 ** Stingray p1 Sport 20m
V3 Very Delicious Cheesecakes Boulder 10m
23 * Medusa Sport 15m, 3
24 ** Cobra Necktie Sport 20m
** Cyclops p2 Sport 10m, 4
25 * Loki's Mischief Sport 12m, 4
** The Gatekeeper Sport 25m
** Zeus, You Bastard Sport 20m, 7
27 ** Beiser Sport 20m
** You Shall Not Pass Sport 25m
28 ** Pandora's Box Sport 15m, 4
? Priapus (Closed Project) Sport 10m
Regn Projekt (closed) Sport Project 18m, 5
Roof Project Matt Sport Project