Topo #6438

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
7 ** Harpe Direct

Up Harpe for the first two FH's, then up L passing a fixed wire and another FH. Doesent get much traffic, so it's a bit overgrown.

21 Sport 8m, 3 Unlink route
8 * Harpe

Popular. Four FH’s protect the juggy flake traverse to lower-off. Stickclip the first. Best to clean this on second.

21 Sport 6m, 4 Unlink route
9 ** Pandora's Box

The current hardest route at Serpent. Stickclip first two bolts from chossy ledge. Hard pull onto wall, with continual bouldering which doesn't relent until you clip the anchor. Hard the entire way. Originally an old Aaron Jones project, until he broke the crux hold and deemed it to hard for the time. Many years have passed and it has finally seen an first ascent.

28 Sport 15m, 4 Unlink route
13 ** Cobra Necktie

Starts up Minotaur and moves left at first bolt and shoots left through the roof. Hard, long move on face above, before joinging into Stingray P1's last bolt. Anchor on ledge above.

24 Sport 20m Unlink route
14 *** Minotaur p1

Unlikely and interesting climbing for the grade. Starts just to the left of the huge fangs (on U-bolt) and climbs the ramp onto slab above. Up passing U-bolts bolts into cave. Out of cave on pockets and up slabby face to lower-off (steel perma-biner). There is a #4 cam between the 4th and 5th bolt which is optional, as well as a perfect pocket to sling. .

17 Sport 20m, 6 Unlink route
10 * Loki's Mischief

Starting L of Stingray’s cave. Four FH’s up the steep stuff. Tough start on tufa feature, with longs moves on big holds following.

25 Sport 12m, 4 Unlink route
11 ** Stingray p1

2m left of Minotaur. Up technical chimney to rooflet. Around this and up face. FH’s. Some love it, some hate it.

22 Sport 20m Unlink route

Topo #6504

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Route Grade Popularity Style
20 * Medusa

About 15m L of The Sundog Traverse. A 45 degree overhanging line past three FH’s with a sinew-stretching final move. Harder if you’re short.

23 Sport 15m, 3 Unlink route
21 ** Beiser

Some dodgy rock on this one, but offers some very tiny holds for you to pit your tips against. Start just right of Medusa at the slabby crack. Stickclip first bolt from chossy ledge. Hard pull straight away to chossy jugs above. Continue on thin holds (crux) culminating with some pumpy wall climbing to anchor above on ledge. The choss just below of the third bolt needs some maintenance (polyester glue smared around the parts that are crumbling).

27 Sport 20m Unlink route

Topo #6503

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