Site navigation

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Description

WARNING: THERE HAVE BEEN MULTIPLE INCIDENTS OF U BOLTS FAILING AT THIS CLIFF. ALL U BOLTS ARE SUSPECT INCLUDING BELAY BOLTS. SEVERAL ROUTES HAVE BOLTS REMOVED. DO NOT USE FIXED PROTECTION. TRADITIONAL CLIMBING ONLY AT THIS CRAG UNTIL BOLT REPLACEMENT IS COMPLETED.

Access issues inherited from Sisters Beach

National Park so standard permits apply.

Approach

Follow the Postman's Track for 100m, then turn L onto unmarked climber's track. Follow this for 10 minutes and you will emerge below the Keyhole. Continue L for another 50m to reach Fly Buttress, or climb up and through the Keyhole, then down and L to Corruption Wall. Dog Wall is at the far Eastern end of Corruption Wall.

Descent notes

From the top of Corruption Wall, walk East to easily scramble down.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

The first 2 routes are located on your right before you scramble through the Keyhole.

Climbs steeply up arete on the RH side of the Keyhole with excellent natural protection.

FA: A Chang & A Arnold

Overhanging thin crack on RH wall of the gully, just before you scramble through the gap in the Keyhole to Corruption Wall. Unnecessary retrobolts recently removed, there is excellent natural protection.

FA: N Smith & M Ling

About 30m L of where you scramble through the gap in the ridge is a bulging roof with a triangular wall under it. Hand traverse along the triangular wall until able to pull over the bulge, then straight up the wall above. Despite excellent natural protection this route has unfortunately been retrobolted. BOLTS SUSPECT. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO LEAD (Oct '17).

FA: Nic Deka & Neale Smith, 1982

SDS into Bulging Balls, finish matched on spike or head for the top (high)

Start as for Stylistic Confusion, but avoid the crack and instead follow the overhanging arete. Finish matched on spike.

Start as for New Kid On The Bloc, but traverse L across the bulge and finish match on good jugs.

Start matched on big jug just L of Carnal Knowledge, finish up easy slab.

First obvious line, the clean hand crack

FA: Robert Hamilton & Tony McKenny

The dirty looking chimney

FA: Tony McKenny & Mick Ling

Overhanging crack just to the R of the chimney.

FA: Nic Deka & Neale Smite, 1987

Steep wall with FH just R of Roll on Responsibility

FA: Nick Hancock & Andrew Geeves, 2006

Shares a start with The Winking Sausage, then heads left up steep wall. BOLTS SUSPECT. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO LEAD (Oct '17).

FA: John Fisher, 1992

Next line of bolts, another pumpy number. 1 BOLT REMOVED. REMAINING BOLTS SUSPECT. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO LEAD (Oct '17).

FA: John Fisher, 1992

Steep, sustained climbing following the incipient crack. A classic of the crag. BOLTS SUSPECT. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO LEAD (Oct '17).

FA: John Fisher, 1992

Corner leading to diagonal roof corner-crack. Climbs quite ok.

FA: Tony McKenny & Nick Williams

Follow thin crack just right of the Rapist, then traverse a long way right across Lazy Lob and CTCP to join top of Nubile Nymph.

FA: Mick Ling & Nick Williams

Excellent steep climbing with an exciting finish up the arete. Take some medium cams. BOLTS SUSPECT. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO LEAD (Oct '17).

FA: John Fisher, 1992

Hard slab following a thin crack, take some small cams for the top. BOLTS SUSPECT. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO LEAD (Oct '17).

FA: John Fisher, 1992

The clean corner crack

FA: Nick Williams & Mick Ling

Easy line between the two corners

FA: P. Kevelaar & S. Pinner

The next corner

FA: Nick Williams & Tony McKenny

Up the featured wall

FA: Neale Smith & Nick Williams

Excellent face climbing just left of the arete. Originally led on gear. BOLTS SUSPECT. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO LEAD (Oct '17).

FA: Tony McKenny & Mick Ling

The impressive, overhanging prow at the end of the cliff.

Up the steep face just to the right of the arete. BOLTS SUSPECT. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO LEAD (Oct '17).

FA: John Fisher, 1993

Amazing line up the middle of the steep face. BOLTS SUSPECT. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO LEAD (Oct '17).

FA: John Fisher, 1992

Another steep number up the right side. Be careful of large block below if you come off. BOLTS SUSPECT. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO LEAD (Oct '17).

FA: John Fisher, 1992

Large boulder tucked just below Rhythm Rude Girl

Up pockets on the left to high top out.

Up the middle of the face, highball.

Up the arete.

Up the easy face.

Traverse the boulder starting on the right, staying about mid height.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Corruption Wall.