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Description

This excellent cliff was once the 'centre of Tasmanian sport climbing'. The 10 or so sport routes are well equipped and of very high qaulity.

Access issues inherited from Sisters Beach

National Park so standard permits apply.

Approach

Follow the Postman's Track for 100m, then turn L onto unmarked climber's track. After 5 minutes you will emerge at a small patch of scree. Up this (ignoring turn off to L to Fly Buttress) and up and through the Keyhole, then down and L to Corruption Wall.

Descent notes

DBBs on all sport routes. From the top of Corruption Wall, you can also walk East or West to descent gullies.

History

View historical timeline

Sport routes fully rebolted in Jan 2018. All suspect U bolts have been removed.

Routes

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Grade Route

The first 2 routes are located on your right before you scramble through the Keyhole.

Climbs steeply up arete on the RH side of the Keyhole with excellent natural protection.

FA: A Chang & A Arnold

Overhanging thin crack on RH wall of the gully, just before you scramble through the gap in the Keyhole to Corruption Wall. Unnecessary retrobolts recently removed, there is excellent natural protection.

FA: N Smith & M Ling

About 30m L of where you scramble through the gap in the ridge is a bulging roof with a triangular wall under it. Hand traverse along the triangular wall until able to pull over the bulge, then straight up the wall above. Retrobolts removed Jan 2018.

FA: Nic Deka & Neale Smith, 1982

SDS into Bulging Balls, finish matched on spike or head for the top (high)

Start as for Stylistic Confusion, but avoid the crack and instead follow the overhanging arete. Finish matched on spike.

Start as for New Kid On The Bloc, but traverse L across the bulge and finish match on good jugs.

Start matched on big jug just L of Carnal Knowledge, finish up easy slab.

First obvious line, the clean hand crack

FA: Robert Hamilton & Tony McKenny

The wide chimney is cleaner and better than it looks

FA: Tony McKenny & Mick Ling

Overhanging crack just to the R of the chimney.

FA: Nic Deka & Neale Smite, 1987

Steep wall with FH just R of Roll on Responsibility

FA: Nick Hancock & Andrew Geeves, 2006

Shares a start with The Winking Sausage, then heads left up steep wall.

FA: John Fisher, 1992

Next line of bolts, another pumpy number.

FA: John Fisher, 1992

Steep, sustained climbing following the incipient crack. A classic of the crag.

FA: John Fisher, 1992

Corner leading to diagonal roof corner-crack. Climbs quite ok.

FA: Tony McKenny & Nick Williams

Follow thin crack just right of the Rapist, then traverse a long way right across Lazy Lob and CTCP to join top of Nubile Nymph.

FA: Mick Ling & Nick Williams

Excellent steep climbing with an exciting finish up the arete.

FA: John Fisher, 1992

Hard slab following a thin crack.

FA: John Fisher, 1992

The clean corner crack

FA: Nick Williams & Mick Ling

Easy line between the two corners

FA: P. Kevelaar & S. Pinner

The next corner

FA: Nick Williams & Tony McKenny

Up the featured wall

FA: Neale Smith & Nick Williams

Excellent face climbing just left of the arete. Originally led on gear.

FA: Tony McKenny & Mick Ling

The impressive, overhanging prow at the end of the cliff.

Up the steep face just to the right of the arete.

FA: John Fisher, 1993

Amazing line up the middle of the steep face.

FA: John Fisher, 1992

Another steep number up the right side. Be careful of large block below if you come off.

FA: John Fisher, 1992

Large boulder tucked just below Rhythm Rude Girl

Up pockets on the left to high top out.

Up the middle of the face, highball.

Up the arete.

Up the easy face.

Traverse the boulder starting on the right, staying about mid height.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Corruption Wall.