Slapes Gully All trad climbing

31 routes in crag

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Description

Moving around at the top of the cliff is very difficult and requires care. It is steep and loose. The main part of the cliff contains some nice rock and a few worthwhile climbs.

Approach

Heinous slide down extremely steep slope featuring old rubbish including a lot of rusty metal and some broken glass. Most vegetation is too unstable to be relied upon. The top of the gully used to reach the crag is marked with a small piece of pink flagging tape, close to a rusty gate.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
12 Slape and Tickle Trad 10m

c.250m east at the same level as the main crag is a small buttress with a prominent arete. Climb the face 1m L of the arete. Nice crux moves at the grade but poorly protected.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 2014

2

Up the steep thin wall (using the arete when necessary) R of Slape and Tickle. A rope would be sensible.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 2014

3
8 Discovery Trad 12m
4
10 Krakaret Trad 12m
5
22 The Fatted Calf Trad 11m
6
4 Tweedledee Trad 11m
7
4 Tweedledum Trad 11m
8
13 Aztecs Trad 9m
9
13 Yeti Trad 11m
10
13 Slapeman Trad 14m
11
12
15 Wild Rose Trad 15m
13
14
16 Virtual Reality Trad 13m
15
18 7.30 Report Trad 10m
16
8 Idle Speculation Trad 10m
17
16 Slape and Away Trad 15m

Scramble up to the little buttress between Idle Speculation and Chest Hairs. Now up the face just L of the short bottomless corner.

FA: Paul Badenoch, Mark Witham, Doug Brooks, 2005

18
10 Chest Hairs Trad 17m
19
21 Le Gringomaniaque Trad 16m
20
19 Fools and Horses Trad 15m
21
21 Haulin' Ass Trad 15m
23
14 Bonsai Boneseed Trad 15m
24
25
14 Crack and Corner Trad 14m
26
16 Hopes in Slapes Trad 14m
27
23 Slapes and Shrieks Trad 14m
28
18 The Big Hush Trad 14m
29
21 Slape Fear Trad 14m
30
19 Slape Factor Trad 13m
31
8 Long Hop Trad 10m

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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