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Description

Moving around at the top of the cliff is very difficult and requires care. It is steep and loose. The main part of the cliff contains some nice rock and a few worthwhile climbs.

Approach

Heinous slide down extremely steep slope featuring old rubbish including a lot of rusty metal and some broken glass. Most vegetation is too unstable to be relied upon. The top of the gully used to reach the crag is marked with a small piece of pink flagging tape, close to a rusty gate.

Routes

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Grade Route

c.250m east at the same level as the main crag is a small buttress with a prominent arete. Climb the face 1m L of the arete. Nice crux moves at the grade but poorly protected.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 2014

Up the steep thin wall (using the arete when necessary) R of Slape and Tickle. A rope would be sensible.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 2014

Scramble up to the little buttress between Idle Speculation and Chest Hairs. Now up the face just L of the short bottomless corner.

FA: Paul Badenoch, Mark Witham & Doug Brooks, 2005

Activity

Check out what is happening in Slapes Gully.