Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Fleurieu Peninsula 230 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.399507, -35.528252

Description:©

Crags are ordered north to south

1.1. Hindmarsh Falls 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.583641, -35.442415

1.2. Backslapper Wall 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Deep Water and Boulder

Long/Lat: 138.213601, -35.511258

Description:© (ajkclay)

The popular diving cliff face at Second Valley.

Useful Info: Park in the Second Valley car park and head down the jetty to the exit steps that head along the cliff edge left. follow the beach along the path and up over the small incline to the diving cliff and the cave.

Approach:© (ajkclay)

Second Valley.

History:

This wall was first utilised as a deep water soloing location in January 2005 by Megan Wilks (now Cree), Tom Cree, Quang Doan and Adam Clay. A long-time favourite spot for cliff divers and scuba enthusiasts the first few climbing outings drew considerable interest from fishermen and swimmers.

It derives its name from the route Backslapper which was so-named following a massive back-slap fall from the top by Tom Cree who came off while repeating his heel hook finish of the route.

1.3. Green Bay (Port Elliot) 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.680150, -35.536847

1.4. Granite Island 43 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Unknown and Aid

Long/Lat: 138.630611, -35.564489

Approach:

Park in the Victor Harbor, walk across the causeway, once on the island turn right and walk approx 5mins until you reach obvious boulder field.

History:

Started in the 70's but has been developed since then.

1.4.1. Umbrella Rock Area 22 routes in Field

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 138.626639, -35.564789

Description:

The Boulder field first encountered as you follow the path which heads off right from the causeway (anticlockwise direction)

Approach:

Once on the island turn right and follow the walking path for about 5 minutes. The first obvious boulder is commonly referred to as Umbrella Rock.

History:

Undoubtedly people have played on these boulders for years, there appears to be no recorded history however of formal bouldering and route naming prior to late December 2012.

A visit was made in early 2012 by Giancarlo and Andrea Costagliolia and friends, then nothing until December 2012 by Adam Clay, Peter Arcidiaco and Andrew Stapledon.

1.4.2. Bridal Spray Area 2 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 138.634731, -35.564513

Description:

The initial stretch of coastline you encounter at the top of the wooden steps after the penguin sanctuary. There is a single path (a little obscure) heading down just after the steps. This will take you down half way then just use common sense, trying not to disrupt native vegetation to get down the rest of the way.

1.5. The Bluff 89 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.603984, -35.591634

1.5.1. Petrel Rock 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.602838, -35.592792

1.5.2. The Pleasure Dome 37 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.603625, -35.594094

1.5.3. Tai Chi Lychee Boulder 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 138.603516, -35.593507

Description:©

There are actually two boulders next to each other. This is a popular abseiling site for commercial groups. There are two carrots on small boulders above the area for anchors.

Descent Notes:©

Descent can be made around either side, with the west side being more popular.

1.5.4. Bandaid Wall 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.5.5. The Shaft Slabs 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.605779, -35.591786

Description:©

Pleasant slabbing. Home of the classic 'Richards Route' and scary 'Hopes in Slopes'

There is a DBB above Richards Route.

Approach:©

Park at the jetty at the end of Franklin Parade. Walk around (easier to walk up high.)

Descent Notes:©

The descent is very fragile. Descent on right (looking out.)

1.5.6. The Inlet Faces 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.5.7. Penny Lane 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

1.5.8. The Bluff - to be merged 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6. Waitpinga 63 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.554729, -35.618176

Access Issues:

The access to the cliff is via one of two methods.

  1. via the Heysen Trail coming in from the Victor Harbour side or Newland Head Reserve. (adds about 1.5 - 2 hours to the walk in.) or

  2. Via private land. The CCSA (Climbing Club of South Australia) has arranged access via the landowners immediately above the cliff top. Any entry onto this land must first have the permission of either Alistair Carmichael or Bernie Carmichael.

Access via the Carmichael's property is closed for lambing June-August 2014. Access via the heysen trail is still open.

Phone numbers are available from the CCSA Online Waitpinga guide at

http://climbingclubsouthaustralia.asn.au/climbing-areas-in-south-australia/waitpinga/

1.6.1. Mollusc Wall 17 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 138.554729, -35.619117

1.6.2. Cephalopod Wall 46 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.555527, -35.618689

Description:

Some sport routes have spaced bolts so taking some trad gear can be a good idea.

1.7. Deep Creek 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Aid

Long/Lat: 138.240599, -35.651747