A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Waitpinga 63 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.554729, -35.618176

Access Issues:

The access to the cliff is via one of two methods.

  1. via the Heysen Trail coming in from the Victor Harbour side or Newland Head Reserve. (adds about 1.5 - 2 hours to the walk in.) or

  2. Via private land. The CCSA (Climbing Club of South Australia) has arranged access via the landowners immediately above the cliff top. Any entry onto this land must first have the permission of either Alistair Carmichael or Bernie Carmichael.

Access via the Carmichael's property is closed for lambing June-August 2014. Access via the heysen trail is still open.

Phone numbers are available from the CCSA Online Waitpinga guide at

http://climbingclubsouthaustralia.asn.au/climbing-areas-in-south-australia/waitpinga/

1.1. Mollusc Wall 17 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 138.554729, -35.619117

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rhythm Method 4Unknown
2 Sardine 14Unknown
3 Plankton 11Unknown
4 Raw 14Unknown
5 Prawn 12Unknown
6 Seahorse 11Unknown
7 Osprey 12Unknown
8 Leafy Seadragon 14Unknown
9 Sweep 13Unknown
10 Tsunami 12Unknown
11 Yardarm 13Unknown
12 Schools for Salmon 12Unknown
13 * Walk the Plank

Start 3m right of the end of 'Flight of the Gull.' The difficult start is accentuated by the threat of waves.

Left leaning cracks for 20m until it closes to a seam. Then Walk the Plank gingerly rightwards (no gear) to the DBB.

FA: Steve Kelly, Peter Daish, 2010

19Trad 28m
14 ** Technically Compromised

Up 'Walk the Plank' for 8m then straight up past ring bolts. Head a bit left at the top to gain the Plank and step R to the DBB.

FA: Peter Daish, Darren Williams, Steve Kelly, 2010

22Mixed 26m, 4
15 ** Technically Gifted

This trad route requires a big cam for the hole and small wires/RPs thereafter.

Start up the crack system and vertical quartz seam left of the major chimney and in front of the large viewing block until it is possible to reach out left to an obvious large hole.

From this, continue diagonally up and left through strenuous moves to the DBB.

FA: Darren Williams, Steve Kelly, 2010

19Trad 26m
16 Gift Voucher

The easiest route on this part of the cliff gets no stars.

Start same as "Technically Gifted" and continue straight up.

The first 10m are well protected and fairly solid, but after that be prepared for sandy ledges, brittle rock, dirt and bushes. At top, traverse left (no gear) for 5m to a DBB.

FA: Steve Kelly, Darren Williams, 2010

14Trad 26m
17 *** Flight of the Gull 17Unknown

1.2. Cephalopod Wall 46 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.555527, -35.618689

Description:

Some sport routes have spaced bolts so taking some trad gear can be a good idea.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Down to the Sea in Slips 18Trad
2 Squid 11Trad
3 Simpkin's Chimney 4Trad
4 Stimulus Package

take a #1 cam

FA: Peter Daish, Des Hudson, 2009

17Sport 20m
5 Mussels and Weeds 14Trad
6 Abalone 9Trad
7 Pincer 10Trad
8 Pincer Variant Finish

as in the guide book

10Trad 27m
9 South Sea Burble 9Trad
10 All Day Sucker 15Trad
11 * Hard to Starboard

FA: Steve Kelly/Pete Daish, 2009

20Trad 25m
12 * Taleah Grace

FA: Peter Daish, Jordy Moffat

13Sport 25m
13 Sea Lion

FA: Damien Hall, Peter Daish

20Mixed 55m, 13
14 Sea Lion Pup

Climb 2/3 of Sea Lion pitch 1, then step L to Taleah Grace chains.

12Sport 30m
15 Sea Lion P1

Sea Lion 1st pitch to 1st horizontal. If using a 60m rope lower to TG chains

18Sport 35m, 10
16 ** Georgie Rose

FA: Peter Daish, Jordy Moffat

18Mixed 30m, 5
17 *** Achilles Gambit

You can take a bit of trad gear with you to supplement the bolts.

FA: Peter Daish

21Sport 30m
18 *** Buoy oh Buoy

FA: Tony Barker, Mike Broadbent

23Aid 60m
19 The Guru Memorial Buttress 18 A3Aid 57m
20 ** The Guru Memorial Buttress Pitch 1

Start on boulders at R end of pond. Up to carrot (difficult) then past 2 ring bolts. Continue up crack (natural protection) passing another ring bolt up high before the DBB.

FFA: Paul Francis, Mark Witham, 1990

18Mixed 27m, 4
21 True North

FA: Peter Daish, Alister Carmichael, 2007

23Trad 27m
22 ** True North Easy Variant

FA: Peter Daish, Jordy Moffat

15Trad 17m
23 Atlas 15 A2Aid 59m
24 ** Lost While Sailing 23Unknown 30m
25 * Lost Socks

Mixed protection, 4 bolts and natural gear.

FA: John Nankivell, Alister Carmichael

18Mixed 31m, 4
26 ** Atlantic Cruise

FA: Mark Leonard, Sandy Hancock, 1989

20Unknown 59m
27 * Clear the Decks Pitch One 17Sport 20m
28 Clear and Smooth 16Sport 20m
29 ** Clear the Decks 24Trad 48m
30 ** Dutchy's Route

FA: Jaimie Holland, Peter Daish

18Trad 48m
31 * Its Barque is Worse Than Its Bight 17Trad
32 ** Smooth Sailing 23Sport 30m
33 * Smooth and Easy 16Sport 20m
34 Smooth Criminal

FA: Peter Daish, Damien Hall

24 A0Aid 35m
35 * Mercy 13Sport 18m
36 Mercy Medium 17Sport
37 Mercy Hard 20Sport
38 *** Clearing Your Mind 19Sport 27m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
39 ** Claw 14Trad
40 Crow's Nest 14Trad
41 Albatross 15Trad
42 Rum, Sodomy, and the Lash 13Trad 28m
43 Hello Sailor 13Trad 28m
44 Magic Mountain

Essentially a retrobolt of Hello Sailor, the description of which appeared in Rock 43.

13Sport 23m, 6
45 Wet Patch

The L arete of the chimney at the R end of the wall.

11Sport 23m, 6
46 *** A Good Line

A traverse of cephalopod wall in either direction staying about 10m above the rock or water.

18Trad 110m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
4 Rhythm Method Unknown 1.1. Mollusc Wall
Simpkin's Chimney Trad 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
9 Abalone Trad 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
South Sea Burble Trad 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
10 Pincer Trad 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
Pincer Variant Finish Trad 27m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
11 Plankton Unknown 1.1. Mollusc Wall
Seahorse Unknown 1.1. Mollusc Wall
Squid Trad 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
Wet Patch Sport 23m, 6 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
12 Osprey Unknown 1.1. Mollusc Wall
Prawn Unknown 1.1. Mollusc Wall
Schools for Salmon Unknown 1.1. Mollusc Wall
Tsunami Unknown 1.1. Mollusc Wall
Sea Lion Pup Sport 30m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
13 Sweep Unknown 1.1. Mollusc Wall
Yardarm Unknown 1.1. Mollusc Wall
Hello Sailor Trad 28m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
Magic Mountain Sport 23m, 6 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
* Mercy Sport 18m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
Rum, Sodomy, and the Lash Trad 28m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
* Taleah Grace Sport 25m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
14 Gift Voucher Trad 26m 1.1. Mollusc Wall
Leafy Seadragon Unknown 1.1. Mollusc Wall
Raw Unknown 1.1. Mollusc Wall
Sardine Unknown 1.1. Mollusc Wall
** Claw Trad 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
Crow's Nest Trad 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
Mussels and Weeds Trad 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
15 Albatross Trad 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
All Day Sucker Trad 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
** True North Easy Variant Trad 17m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
15 A2 Atlas Aid 59m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
16 Clear and Smooth Sport 20m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
* Smooth and Easy Sport 20m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
17 *** Flight of the Gull Unknown 1.1. Mollusc Wall
* Clear the Decks Pitch One Sport 20m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
* Its Barque is Worse Than Its Bight Trad 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
Mercy Medium Sport 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
Stimulus Package Sport 20m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
18 *** A Good Line Trad 110m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
*** Down to the Sea in Slips Trad 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
** Dutchy's Route Trad 48m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
** Georgie Rose Mixed 30m, 5 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
* Lost Socks Mixed 31m, 4 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
Sea Lion P1 Sport 35m, 10 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
** The Guru Memorial Buttress Pitch 1 Mixed 27m, 4 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
18 A3 The Guru Memorial Buttress Aid 57m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
19 ** Technically Gifted Trad 26m 1.1. Mollusc Wall
* Walk the Plank Trad 28m 1.1. Mollusc Wall
*** Clearing Your Mind Sport 27m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
20 ** Atlantic Cruise Unknown 59m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
* Hard to Starboard Trad 25m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
Mercy Hard Sport 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
Sea Lion Mixed 55m, 13 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
21 *** Achilles Gambit Sport 30m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
22 ** Technically Compromised Mixed 26m, 4 1.1. Mollusc Wall
23 *** Buoy oh Buoy Aid 60m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
** Lost While Sailing Unknown 30m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
** Smooth Sailing Sport 30m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
True North Trad 27m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
24 ** Clear the Decks Trad 48m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall
24 A0 Smooth Criminal Aid 35m 1.2. Cephalopod Wall