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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityTrad, Sport and other styles
Long/Lat: 138.554729, -35.618176
- Access Issues:
The access to the cliff is via one of two methods.
via the Heysen Trail coming in from the Victor Harbour side or Newland Head Reserve. (adds about 1.5 - 2 hours to the walk in.) or
Via private land. The CCSA (Climbing Club of South Australia) has arranged access via the landowners immediately above the cliff top. Any entry onto this land must first have the permission of either Alistair Carmichael or Bernie Carmichael.
Phone numbers are available from the CCSA Online Waitpinga guide at
Long/Lat: 138.554729, -35.619117
The RH end can be accessed by walking around from Cephlapod Wall. The LH end is rarely visited.
|12||Schools for Salmon||12|
Walk the Plank
Start 3m right of the end of 'Flight of the Gull.' The difficult start is accentuated by the threat of waves.
Left leaning cracks for 20m until it closes to a seam. Then Walk the Plank gingerly rightwards (no gear) to the DBB.
FA: Steve Kelly, Peter Daish, 2010
Up 'Walk the Plank' for 8m then straight up past ring bolts. Head a bit left at the top to gain the Plank and step R to the DBB.
FA: Peter Daish, Darren Williams, Steve Kelly, 2010
This trad route requires a big cam for the hole and small wires/RPs thereafter.
Start up the crack system and vertical quartz seam left of the major chimney and in front of the large viewing block until it is possible to reach out left to an obvious large hole.
From this, continue diagonally up and left through strenuous moves to the DBB.
FA: Darren Williams, Steve Kelly, 2010
The easiest route on this part of the cliff gets no stars.
Start same as "Technically Gifted" and continue straight up.
The first 10m are well protected and fairly solid, but after that be prepared for sandy ledges, brittle rock, dirt and bushes. At top, traverse left (no gear) for 5m to a DBB.
FA: Steve Kelly, Darren Williams, 2010
|17||Flight of the Gull||17|
Trad, Sport and other styles
Long/Lat: 138.555527, -35.618689
Tie a knot in the end of your rope before climbing! There have been numerous accidents at this cliff due to lowering off the end of the rope. A 60m rope is required for most of the easy routes. The routes ending at the major horizontal at "30m" actually need a 70m rope to lower off due to the line taken (or you can clean the draws on the way down.)
Some sport routes have spaced bolts so taking some trad gear can be a good idea. Indeed many of the best routes at the cliff are mixed - bolts only where there are no trad placements availble.
Some routes have a carrot at the start, so a couple of bolt plates are required.
- Descent Notes:©
Sport routes have lower-offs. The old routes end in steep dirt, loose rock and shrubs and are not recommended unless you are in to that.
|1||Down to the Sea in Slips||18|
take a #1 cam
FA: Peter Daish, Des Hudson, 2009
|5||Mussels and Weeds||14|
Pincer Variant Finish
as in the guide book
|9||South Sea Burble||9|
|10||All Day Sucker||15|
Hard to Starboard
FA: Steve Kelly/Pete Daish, 2009
FA: Peter Daish, Jordy Moffat
FA: Damien Hall, Peter Daish
|14||Sea Lion Pup||12||30m|
Sea Lion P1
Sea Lion 1st pitch to 1st horizontal. If using a 60m rope lower to TG chains
FA: Peter Daish, Jordy Moffat
Buoy oh Buoy
FA: Tony Barker, Mike Broadbent
You can take a bit of trad gear with you to supplement the bolts.
FA: Peter Daish
|19||The Guru Memorial Buttress||18 AID:A3||257m|
The Guru Memorial Buttress Pitch 1
Start on boulders at R end of pond. Up to carrot (difficult) then past 2 ring bolts. Continue up crack (natural protection) passing another ring bolt up high before the DBB.
FFA: Paul Francis, Mark Witham, 1990
FA: Peter Daish, Alister Carmichael, 2007
True North Easy Variant
FA: Peter Daish, Jordy Moffat
|24||Lost While Sailing||23||30m|
Mixed protection, 4 bolts and natural gear.
FA: John Nankivell, Alister Carmichael
FA: Mark Leonard, Sandy Hancock, 1989
|27||Clear the Decks Pitch One||17||20m|
|28||Clear and Smooth||16||20m|
|29||Clear the Decks||24||48m|
FA: Jaimie Holland, Peter Daish
|31||Its Barque is Worse Than Its Bight||17|
|33||Smooth and Easy||16||20m|
FA: Peter Daish, Damien Hall
Follow the crack line that runs parallel and 5m R of Smooth Sailing. Start at Clearing Your Mind leftwards passing through its Barque’s garden, then keep following the obvious crack line that leads to the Lost Socks DBB. Good natural pro all the way. 70m rope required to lower off.
FFA: Frewin Ries, 2014
|39||Clearing Your Mind||19||27m|
|43||Rum, Sodomy, and the Lash||13||28m|
Essentially a retrobolt of Hello Sailor, the description of which appeared in Rock 43.
The L arete of the chimney at the R end of the wall.
A Good Line
A traverse of cephalopod wall in either direction staying about 10m above the rock or water.