Waitpinga Crag guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Cameron Roy Paul Badenoch Brendan Heywood Anton Steketee Matthew Broadbent Simon Dale Phil Davis Steve Adam Clay Jon

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1. Waitpinga 63 in Crag
- 1.1. Mollusc Wall 17 in Area
- 1.2. Cephalopod Wall 46 in Area
2. Index by grade

1. Waitpinga 63 routes in Crag

2 1

1 Mollusc Wall, 2 Cephalopod Wall

seasonality

Summary:

Trad,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.554729, -35.618176

Access Issues:

The access to the cliff is via one of two methods.

via the Heysen Trail coming in from the Victor Harbour side or Newland Head Reserve. (adds about 1.5 - 2 hours to the walk in.) or
Via private land. The CCSA (Climbing Club of South Australia) has arranged access via the landowners immediately above the cliff top. Any entry onto this land must first have the permission of either Alistair Carmichael or Bernie Carmichael.

Phone numbers are available from the CCSA Online Waitpinga guide at

http://www.climbingclubsouthaustralia.asn.au/guides.html

1.1. Mollusc Wall 17 routes in Area

Summary:: ?,Trad
Long/Lat: 138.554729, -35.619117

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Rhythm Method	4	Unknown
2	Sardine	14	Unknown
3	Plankton	11	Unknown	Paul Badenoch 12 years ago Lovely Waits climbing.
4	Raw	14	Unknown	Paul Badenoch 12 years ago Very testing start; a typical Colin route from the 70s.
5	Prawn	12	Unknown	Paul Badenoch 12 years ago Rock deteriorates up high, as for all routes here.
6	Seahorse	11	Unknown
7	Osprey	12	Unknown
8	Leafy Seadragon	14	Unknown	David Newell 10 years ago Wave washed over us at the belay stance after the traverse
9	Sweep	13	Unknown
10	Tsunami	12	Unknown
11	Yardarm	13	Unknown
12	Schools for Salmon	12	Unknown
13	Walk the Plank Start 3m right of the end of 'Flight of the Gull.' The difficult start is accentuated by the threat of waves. Left leaning cracks for 20m until it closes to a seam. Then Walk the Plank gingerly rightwards (no gear) to the DBB. FA: Steve Kelly, Peter Daish, 2010	19	Trad 28m	Cameron Roy 4 months ago The Plank would be heady on lead.
14	Technically Compromised Up 'Walk the Plank' for 8m then straight up past ring bolts. Head a bit left at the top to gain the Plank and step R to the DBB. FA: Peter Daish, Darren Williams, Steve Kelly, 2010	22	Mixed 26m , 4
15	Technically Gifted This trad route requires a big cam for the hole and small wires/RPs thereafter. Start up the crack system and vertical quartz seam left of the major chimney and in front of the large viewing block until it is possible to reach out left to an obvious large hole. From this, continue diagonally up and left through strenuous moves to the DBB. FA: Darren Williams, Steve Kelly, 2010	19	Trad 26m	Cameron Roy 4 months ago Tough moves.
16	Gift Voucher The easiest route on this part of the cliff gets no stars. Start same as "Technically Gifted" and continue straight up. The first 10m are well protected and fairly solid, but after that be prepared for sandy ledges, brittle rock, dirt and bushes. At top, traverse left (no gear) for 5m to a DBB. FA: Steve Kelly, Darren Williams, 2010	14	Trad 26m	Cameron Roy 4 months ago Good to do a climb on 'Mollusc Wall' but the second half was an unpleasant experience. At about 2...
17	Flight of the Gull	17	Unknown	Matthew Broadbent 1 years ago Great day out, well worth the trip. Col Ridley 7 years ago Done with Thai the Park ranger at the time. Awsum route, best traverse i've done yet. We then rev...

1.2. Cephalopod Wall 46 routes in Area

Summary:: Trad,Sport and other styles
Long/Lat: 138.555527, -35.618689
Description:: Some sport routes have spaced bolts so taking some trad gear can be a good idea.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1	Down to the Sea in Slips	18	Trad		Paul Badenoch 8 years ago R to L. A mind trip that did me good.
2	Squid	11	Trad
3	Simpkin's Chimney	4	Trad
4	Stimulus Package take a #1 cam FA: Peter Daish, Des Hudson, 2009	17	Sport 20m		Cameron Roy 2 years ago With Anton. Superb atmosphere - waves crashing around Anton belaying below, superb views of mollu... Garth Wimbush 2 years ago Nice climb if only for the view of Mollusc wall!
5	Mussels and Weeds	14	Trad		Paul Badenoch 1 years ago I'd be heading for the cracks on lead.
6	Abalone	9	Trad		Cameron Roy 5 months ago First half superb, then crap. DBB on arete has SUPERB atmosphere and views of Mollusc Wall. Paul Badenoch 8 years ago Good start, bad finish.
7	Pincer	10	Trad
8	Pincer Variant Finish as in the guide book	10	Trad 27m		Paul Badenoch 3 years ago character-building as expected
9	South Sea Burble	9	Trad		Paul Badenoch 1 years ago A very delicate finish on hardened sand.
10	All Day Sucker	15	Trad
11	Hard to Starboard FA: Steve Kelly/Pete Daish, 2009	20	Trad 25m		Garth Wimbush 2 years ago The climb still seems to be cleaning up. I broke off at least 3 holds (although none of them were... Steve 4 years ago FA. Approx 5m left of Talea G. Start off highest boulder to carrot, then left and follow mix of t...
12	Taleah Grace FA: Peter Daish, Jordy Moffat,	13	Sport 25m		Anton Steketee 6 months ago Warmup ... Cameron Roy 2 years ago With Anton.
13	Sea Lion FA: Damien Hall, Peter Daish,	20	Sport 55m		Paul Badenoch 4 years ago P1 up to the horizontal; 17ish.
14	Sea Lion Pup Climb 2/3 of Sea Lion pitch 1, then step L to Taleah Grace chains.	12	Sport 30m		Toby Phillips 4 months ago Took a shot at Taleah Grace, bailed into Sea Lion Pup for about 5m. Sad times. Toby Phillips 4 months ago I found the traverse a bit hairy. Lots of fun once in the main line.
15	Sea Lion P1 Sea Lion 1st pitch to 1st horizontal. If using a 60m rope lower to TG chains	18	Sport 35m , 10		Anton Steketee 4 months ago Fell off about two bolts from the end and fractured a couple of bones in my ankle in the process :( Cameron Roy 1 years ago With Anton. PITA trying not to get the rope wet when pulling it.
16	Georgie Rose FA: Peter Daish, Jordy Moffat,	18	Mixed 30m , 5		Anton Steketee 6 months ago Good fun. Found the start and ends very hard, but pleasant in between. Cameron Roy 6 months ago Tough up to bolt, the pleasant until the final hard traverse.
17	Achilles Gambit You can take a bit of trad gear with you to supplement the bolts. FA: Peter Daish,	21	Sport 30m		Cameron Roy 4 months ago Superb, gets real thin towards the top! Garth Wimbush 2 years ago Really nice. Still cleaning up a bit, but only broke a bit of 1 hold that I can remember. Also, I...
18	Buoy oh Buoy FA: Tony Barker, Mike Broadbent,	23	Aid 60m		Steve 4 years ago Freed - first redpoint. Now 23 (1st pitch). Technically harder than SS.
19	The Guru Memorial Buttress	18 A3	Aid 57m
20	The Guru Memorial Buttress Pitch 1 Start on boulders at R end of pond. Up to carrot (difficult) then past 2 ring bolts. Continue up crack (natural protection) passing another ring bolt up high before the DBB. FFA: Paul Francis, Mark Witham, 1990	18	Mixed 27m , 4		Cameron Roy 6 months ago Hard to first bolt, then nice climbing almost to the top. Then spent 15 minutes working out a mov...
21	True North FA: Peter Daish, Alister Carmichael, 2007	23	Trad 27m		Steve 4 years ago 2nd try. Great gear placements. Tricky feet. Adam Clay 5 years ago top roped it, forgot my haness and shoes so no choice, sorry Arend.
22	True North Easy Variant FA: Peter Daish, Jordy Moffat,	15	Trad 17m		Anton Steketee 6 months ago Hardest trad lead to date. Very scary! Although the pro was generally good. Cameron Roy 1 years ago Great pro.
23	Atlas	15 A2	Aid 59m		Paul Badenoch 4 years ago Quick TR to the horizontal at the end of the day.
24	Lost While Sailing	23	Unknown 30m		Steve 4 years ago Lost Socks into Smooth Sailing, joining it at the quartz line. Classic.
25	Lost Socks Mixed protection, 4 bolts and natural gear. FA: John Nankivell, Alister Carmichael,	18	Mixed 31m , 4		Matthew Broadbent 1 years ago Had a 10m fall last year on this one while hung over, unfinished business had to be cleared up. Anton Steketee 1 years ago Great climb, very thin at the top ...
26	Atlantic Cruise FA: Mark Leonard, Sandy Hancock, 1989	20	Unknown 59m
27	Clear the Decks Pitch One	17	Sport 20m		Cameron Roy 2 years ago With Anton. Good times. Paul Badenoch 4 years ago Good although contrived so near the crack.
28	Clear and Smooth	16	Sport 20m		Anton Steketee 6 months ago Another similar link up to Smooth and Easy. Good. Paul Badenoch 4 years ago Good for getting the feet working.
29	Clear the Decks	24	Trad 48m		Steve 4 years ago When in doubt - start jumping off to get the head in gear. Having the right footer works as well.
30	Dutchy's Route FA: Jaimie Holland, Peter Daish,	18	Trad 48m		Cameron Roy 4 months ago Wasn't having a great day and ended up having a sit at 2/3 height. I am pretty sure the Badenoch... Cameron Roy 1 years ago Bolt bravery! Deb seconded
31	Its Barque is Worse Than Its Bight	17	Trad		Anton Steketee 1 years ago Skipped the top arete by sidling around the side. Good rock on the bottom half before turning veg... Cameron Roy 1 years ago Finished up the arete - tough going and very little gear. Belaying at the CTD top anchors extreme...
32	Smooth Sailing	23	Sport 30m		Steve 5 years ago Excellent 30 metre slab!
33	Smooth and Easy	16	Sport 20m		Anton Steketee 6 months ago Good fun, liked it a lot. Hard moves to the chain. Cameron Roy 2 years ago With Anton. Nice line.
34	Smooth Criminal FA: Peter Daish, Damien Hall,	24 A0	Aid 35m
35	Mercy	13	Sport 18m		Toby Phillips 4 months ago Nice line. Cameron Roy 2 years ago With Anton.
36	Mercy Medium	17	Sport		billie 3 years ago yeh awsome Paul Badenoch 4 years ago OK continuation.
37	Mercy Hard	20	Sport		Anton Steketee 6 months ago Wandered somewhere between this and Mercy Medium. Cameron Roy 6 months ago "Mercy Medium" is a nicer route I would say.
38	Clearing Your Mind	19	Sport 27m		Cameron Roy 3 months ago Logging this again as there is a point at about half height where it is possible to move right to... Anton Steketee 6 months ago Great route. Definitely recommended. Almost got it clean, for next time!
Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
39	Claw	14	Trad		Anton Steketee 6 months ago Good fun, different from a lot of the climbing here. Traverse to chains was probably the hardest ... Cameron Roy 6 months ago Gets a bit dirty at the top, so traversed left to CYM anchor. Takes good protection.
40	Crow's Nest	14	Trad		Cameron Roy 3 months ago Oh god. Starts off quite pleasant and then rapidly deteriorates. At one stage I pulled through a ... Paul Badenoch 10 years ago Maybe my last lead in SA before the big fall at Araps?
41	Albatross	15	Trad		Paul Badenoch 14 years ago All the climbs are similar at this end of the wall!
42	Rum, Sodomy, and the Lash	13	Trad 28m		Cameron Roy 5 months ago Finished at Magic Mountain DBB. Paul Badenoch 13 years ago Very similar climbing to Albatross and the other lines here.
43	Hello Sailor	13	Trad 28m		Paul Badenoch 12 years ago Very similar climbing to Albatross and the other lines here.
44	Magic Mountain Essentially a retrobolt of Hello Sailor, the description of which appeared in Rock 43.	13	Sport 23m , 6		Paul Badenoch 2 years ago Best to keep away from top crack on L - chalky.
45	Wet Patch The L arete of the chimney at the R end of the wall.	11	Sport 23m , 6		Cameron Roy 1 years ago Thought the first few bolts were fairly spaced for an 11 (likely to be peoples' first lead at wai... Paul Badenoch 2 years ago Quite a good juggy climb.
46	A Good Line A traverse of cephalopod wall in either direction staying about 10m above the rock or water.	18	Trad 110m		Matthew Broadbent 1 years ago Excellent climbing for a day out in the sun. Paul Badenoch 14 years ago Superb, and different climbing to Flight of the Gull.

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style	Area
4	Rhythm Method	Unknown	1.1. Mollusc Wall
	Simpkin's Chimney	Trad	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
9	Abalone	Trad	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	South Sea Burble	Trad	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
10	Pincer	Trad	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	Pincer Variant Finish	Trad 27m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
11	Plankton	Unknown	1.1. Mollusc Wall
	Seahorse	Unknown	1.1. Mollusc Wall
	Squid	Trad	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	Wet Patch	Sport 23m , 6	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
12	Osprey	Unknown	1.1. Mollusc Wall
	Prawn	Unknown	1.1. Mollusc Wall
	Schools for Salmon	Unknown	1.1. Mollusc Wall
	Tsunami	Unknown	1.1. Mollusc Wall
	Sea Lion Pup	Sport 30m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
13	Sweep	Unknown	1.1. Mollusc Wall
	Yardarm	Unknown	1.1. Mollusc Wall
	Hello Sailor	Trad 28m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	Magic Mountain	Sport 23m , 6	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	Mercy	Sport 18m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	Rum, Sodomy, and the Lash	Trad 28m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	Taleah Grace	Sport 25m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
14	Gift Voucher	Trad 26m	1.1. Mollusc Wall
	Leafy Seadragon	Unknown	1.1. Mollusc Wall
	Raw	Unknown	1.1. Mollusc Wall
	Sardine	Unknown	1.1. Mollusc Wall
	Claw	Trad	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	Crow's Nest	Trad	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	Mussels and Weeds	Trad	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
15	Albatross	Trad	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	All Day Sucker	Trad	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	True North Easy Variant	Trad 17m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
15 A2	Atlas	Aid 59m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
16	Clear and Smooth	Sport 20m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	Smooth and Easy	Sport 20m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
17	Flight of the Gull	Unknown	1.1. Mollusc Wall
	Clear the Decks Pitch One	Sport 20m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	Its Barque is Worse Than Its Bight	Trad	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	Mercy Medium	Sport	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	Stimulus Package	Sport 20m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
18	A Good Line	Trad 110m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	Down to the Sea in Slips	Trad	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	Dutchy's Route	Trad 48m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	Georgie Rose	Mixed 30m , 5	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	Lost Socks	Mixed 31m , 4	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	Sea Lion P1	Sport 35m , 10	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	The Guru Memorial Buttress Pitch 1	Mixed 27m , 4	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
18 A3	The Guru Memorial Buttress	Aid 57m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
19	Technically Gifted	Trad 26m	1.1. Mollusc Wall
	Walk the Plank	Trad 28m	1.1. Mollusc Wall
	Clearing Your Mind	Sport 27m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
20	Atlantic Cruise	Unknown 59m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	Hard to Starboard	Trad 25m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	Mercy Hard	Sport	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	Sea Lion	Sport 55m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
21	Achilles Gambit	Sport 30m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
22	Technically Compromised	Mixed 26m , 4	1.1. Mollusc Wall
23	Buoy oh Buoy	Aid 60m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	Lost While Sailing	Unknown 30m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	Smooth Sailing	Sport 30m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
	True North	Trad 27m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
24	Clear the Decks	Trad 48m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall
24 A0	Smooth Criminal	Aid 35m	1.2. Cephalopod Wall

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