The Shaft Slabs All trad climbing

16 routes in cliff

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Description

Pleasant slabbing. Home of the classic 'Richards Route' and scary 'Hopes in Slopes'

There is a DBB above Richards Route.

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Approach

Park at the jetty at the end of Franklin Parade. Walk around (easier to walk up high.)

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Descent Notes

The descent is very fragile. Descent on right (looking out.)

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
10 Dopes on Slopes Trad 14m
2
17 Granita Trad 14m
3
18 Psycho Trad 8m
5
16 Shaft Trad 30m
6
14 Shaft RHV Trad 30m
7
14 Nautilis Trad 17m
8
11 Snake Eyes Trad 17m
9
21 Fin de Siecle Mixed 17m, 2
10
18 *** Richards Route Trad 18m

Start: Scramble up the gully to where the crack breaks out right over an overhang and onto a slab above. Follow this to where it peters out over a little overlap, then step left and past an undercling en route to a big hole at the main overlap. Then traverse out right to finish on the short final wall.

11
19 ** Richard's Route DS Trad 18m
12
18 ** Richards Route DF Trad 18m
13
19 Richard' Route Direct Mixed 18m, 1
14
22 *** Hopes in Slopes Mixed 25m, 1

Like many scare routes, easy to toprope, easy to fall off, but bloody terrifying to lead. A single bolt protects the hardest moves within the first 4 metres, then you are on your own. A cam in a hollow flake follows backed up by some wires, then a 6 metre runout to a twin skyhook placement on a large crimper line. From there, it's about a 12 metre runout to the top diagonally leftwards at first, then straight up. Carrigan toproped the line prior to the first ascent (ie. It was 'headpointed') - and left his rack weighing down a single skyhook on the last placement. The final part on a toprope may feel about grade 18, however it will feel very different on lead! British E5 5c - which means 'dangerous!'

FA: Carrigan/Shepherd

16
12 Slightly Asian Trad 33m