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Description

Pleasant slabbing. Home of the classic 'Richards Route' and scary 'Hopes in Slopes'

There is a DBB above Richards Route.

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Approach

Park at the jetty at the end of Franklin Parade. Walk around (easier to walk up high.)

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Descent notes

The descent is very fragile. Descent on right (looking out.)

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Straight up above the hole in the big overlap past a bolt. This finish is shared with Fin de Siecle.

FA: John Marshall, Tony Barker & Graham Hill, 1977

Start: Scramble up the gully to where the crack breaks out right over an overhang and onto a slab above. Follow this to where it peters out over a little overlap, then step left and past an undercling en route to a big hole at the main overlap. Then traverse out right to finish on the short final wall.

Start straight up the crack. Well protected.

Resist the temptation to move L from the crack towards the undercling. Stay in the crack, clip a bolt and join the original route at the R end of the big overlap. Hard.

Like many scare routes, easy to toprope, easy to fall off, but bloody terrifying to lead. A single bolt protects the hardest moves within the first 4 metres, then you are on your own. A cam in a hollow flake follows backed up by some wires, then a 6 metre runout to a twin skyhook placement on a large crimper line. From there, it's about a 12 metre runout to the top diagonally leftwards at first, then straight up. Carrigan toproped the line prior to the first ascent (ie. It was 'headpointed') - and left his rack weighing down a single skyhook on the last placement. The final part on a toprope may feel about grade 18, however it will feel very different on lead! British E5 5c - which means 'dangerous!'

FA: Carrigan/Shepherd

Activity

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