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Access Issues: inherited from Waitpinga

The access to the cliff is via one of two methods.

  1. via the Heysen Trail coming in from the Victor Harbour side or Newland Head Reserve. (adds about 1.5 - 2 hours to the walk in.) or

  2. Via private land. The CCSA (Climbing Club of South Australia) has arranged access via the landowners immediately above the cliff top. Any entry onto this land must first have the permission of either Alistair Carmichael or Bernie Carmichael.

Phone numbers are available from the CCSA Online Waitpinga guide at

http://www.climbingclubsouthaustralia.asn.au/guides.html

Tags:
SE Slab Low tide Rap off Wet in rain Morning sun Windy Steep hike Schist Ramp 20-30 min

Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Rhythm Method
4
Unknown
2 Sardine
14
Unknown
3 Plankton
11
Unknown
4 Raw
14
Unknown
5 Prawn
12
Unknown
6 Seahorse
11
Unknown
7 Osprey
12
Unknown
8 Leafy Seadragon
14
Unknown
9 Sweep
13
Unknown
10 Tsunami
12
Unknown
11 Yardarm
13
Unknown
12 Schools for Salmon
12
Unknown
13 * Walk the Plank

Start 3m right of the end of 'Flight of the Gull.' The difficult start is accentuated by the threat of waves.

Left leaning cracks for 20m until it closes to a seam. Then Walk the Plank gingerly rightwards (no gear) to the DBB.

FA: Steve Kelly, Peter Daish, 2010

19
Trad 28m
14 ** Technically Compromised

Up 'Walk the Plank' for 8m then straight up past ring bolts. Head a bit left at the top to gain the Plank and step R to the DBB.

FA: Peter Daish, Darren Williams, Steve Kelly, 2010

22
Mixed 26m , 4
15 ** Technically Gifted

This trad route requires a big cam for the hole and small wires/RPs thereafter.

Start up the crack system and vertical quartz seam left of the major chimney and in front of the large viewing block until it is possible to reach out left to an obvious large hole.

From this, continue diagonally up and left through strenuous moves to the DBB.

FA: Darren Williams, Steve Kelly, 2010

19
Trad 26m
16 Gift Voucher

The easiest route on this part of the cliff gets no stars.

Start same as "Technically Gifted" and continue straight up.

The first 10m are well protected and fairly solid, but after that be prepared for sandy ledges, brittle rock, dirt and bushes. At top, traverse left (no gear) for 5m to a DBB.

FA: Steve Kelly, Darren Williams, 2010

14
Trad 26m
17 *** Flight of the Gull
17
Unknown