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Access issues inherited from Waitpinga

The access to the cliff is via one of two methods.

  1. via the Heysen Trail coming in from the Victor Harbour side or Newland Head Reserve. (adds about 1.5 - 2 hours to the walk in.) or

  2. Via private land. The CCSA (Climbing Club of South Australia) has arranged access via the landowners immediately above the cliff top. Any entry onto this land must first have the permission of either Alistair Carmichael or Bernie Carmichael.

Access via the Carmichael's property is closed for lambing June-August 2014. Access via the heysen trail is still open.

Phone numbers are available from the CCSA Online Waitpinga guide at

http://climbingclubsouthaustralia.asn.au/climbing-areas-in-south-australia/waitpinga/

Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
4 Rhythm Method Unknown
2
14 Sardine Unknown
3
11 Plankton Unknown
4
14 Raw Unknown
5
12 Prawn Unknown
6
11 Seahorse Unknown
7
12 Osprey Unknown
8
14 Leafy Seadragon Unknown
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13 Sweep Unknown
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12 Tsunami Unknown
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13 Yardarm Unknown
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19 * Walk the Plank Trad 28m

Start 3m right of the end of 'Flight of the Gull.' The difficult start is accentuated by the threat of waves.

Left leaning cracks for 20m until it closes to a seam. Then Walk the Plank gingerly rightwards (no gear) to the DBB.

FA: Steve Kelly, Peter Daish, 2010

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22 ** Technically Compromised Mixed 26m, 4

Up 'Walk the Plank' for 8m then straight up past ring bolts. Head a bit left at the top to gain the Plank and step R to the DBB.

FA: Peter Daish, Darren Williams, Steve Kelly, 2010

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19 ** Technically Gifted Trad 26m

This trad route requires a big cam for the hole and small wires/RPs thereafter.

Start up the crack system and vertical quartz seam left of the major chimney and in front of the large viewing block until it is possible to reach out left to an obvious large hole.

From this, continue diagonally up and left through strenuous moves to the DBB.

FA: Darren Williams, Steve Kelly, 2010

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14 Gift Voucher Trad 26m

The easiest route on this part of the cliff gets no stars.

Start same as "Technically Gifted" and continue straight up.

The first 10m are well protected and fairly solid, but after that be prepared for sandy ledges, brittle rock, dirt and bushes. At top, traverse left (no gear) for 5m to a DBB.

FA: Steve Kelly, Darren Williams, 2010

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