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Description

Tie a knot in the end of your rope before climbing! There have been numerous accidents at this cliff due to lowering off the end of the rope. A 60m rope is required for most of the easy routes. The routes ending at the major horizontal at "30m" actually need a 70m rope to lower off due to the line taken (or you can clean the draws on the way down.)

Some sport routes have spaced bolts so taking some trad gear can be a good idea. Indeed many of the best routes at the cliff are mixed - bolts only where there are no trad placements availble.

Some routes have a carrot at the start, so a couple of bolt plates are required.

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Access issues inherited from Waitpinga

The access to the cliff is via one of two methods.

  1. via the Heysen Trail coming in from the Victor Harbour side or Newland Head Reserve. (adds about 1.5 - 2 hours to the walk in.) or

  2. Via private land. The CCSA (Climbing Club of South Australia) has arranged access via the landowners immediately above the cliff top. Any entry onto this land must first have the permission of either Alistair Carmichael or Bernie Carmichael.

Phone numbers are available from the CCSA Online Waitpinga guide at

http://climbingclubsouthaustralia.asn.au/climbing-areas-in-south-australia/waitpinga/

Descent Notes

Sport routes have lower-offs. The old routes end in steep dirt, loose rock and shrubs and are not recommended unless you are in to that.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
2
11 Squid Trad
4
17 Stimulus Package Sport 20m

take a #1 cam

FA: Peter Daish & Des Hudson, 2009

6
9 Abalone Trad
7
10 Pincer Trad
8

as in the guide book

10
11
20 * Hard to Starboard Trad 25m

FA: Steve Kelly/Pete Daish, 2009

12
13 * Taleah Grace Sport 25m

FA: Peter Daish & Jordy Moffat

13
21 Sea Lion Mixed 55m 2, 13

FA: Damien Hall & Peter Daish

14
12 Sea Lion Pup Sport 30m

Climb 2/3 of Sea Lion pitch 1, then step L to Taleah Grace chains.

15
18 Sea Lion P1 Sport 35m, 10

Sea Lion 1st pitch to 1st horizontal. If using a 60m rope lower to TG chains

16
18 ** Georgie Rose Mixed 30m, 5

FA: Peter Daish & Jordy Moffat

17
23 *** Buoy oh Buoy Aid 60m

FA: Tony Barker & Mike Broadbent

18
21 *** Achilles Gambit Sport 30m

You can take a bit of trad gear with you to supplement the bolts.

FA: Peter Daish

19
18 AID:A3 The Guru Memorial Buttress Aid 57m 2
20

Start on boulders at R end of pond. Up to carrot (difficult) then past 2 ring bolts. Continue up crack (natural protection) passing another ring bolt up high before the DBB.

FFA: Paul Francis & Mark Witham, 1990

21
23 True North Trad 27m

FA: Peter Daish & Alister Carmichael, 2007

22

FA: Peter Daish & Jordy Moffat

23
15 AID:A2 Atlas Aid 59m
24
23 ** Lost While Sailing Unknown 30m
25
18 * Lost Socks Mixed 31m, 4

Mixed protection, 4 bolts and natural gear.

FA: John Nankivell & Alister Carmichael

26
20 ** Atlantic Cruise Unknown 59m

FA: Mark Leonard & Sandy Hancock, 1989

28
16 Clear and Smooth Sport 20m
29
24 ** Clear the Decks Trad 48m
30
18 ** Dutchy's Route Trad 48m

FA: Jaimie Holland & Peter Daish

32
23 ** Smooth Sailing Sport 30m
33
16 * Smooth and Easy Sport 20m
34
24 AID:A0 Smooth Criminal Aid 35m

FA: Peter Daish & Damien Hall

35
13 * Mercy Sport 18m
36
17 * Mercy Medium Sport
37
20 Mercy Hard Sport
38
18 * Paua Crack Trad 33m

Follow the crack line that runs parallel and 5m R of Smooth Sailing. Start at Clearing Your Mind leftwards passing through its Barque’s garden, then keep following the obvious crack line that leads to the Lost Socks DBB. Good natural pro all the way. 70m rope required to lower off.

FFA: Frewin Ries, 2014

39
19 *** Clearing Your Mind Sport 27m
40
14 ** Claw Trad 32m
41
14 Crow's Nest Trad
42
15 Albatross Trad
44
13 Hello Sailor Trad 28m
45
13 Magic Mountain Sport 23m, 6

Essentially a retrobolt of Hello Sailor, the description of which appeared in Rock 43.

46
11 Wet Patch Sport 23m, 6

The L arete of the chimney at the R end of the wall.

47
18 *** A Good Line Trad 110m

A traverse of cephalopod wall in either direction staying about 10m above the rock or water.