Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Description

Tie a knot in the end of your rope before climbing! There have been numerous accidents at this cliff due to lowering off the end of the rope. A 60m rope is required for most of the easy routes. The routes ending at the major horizontal at "30m" actually need a 70m rope to lower off due to the line taken (or you can clean the draws on the way down.)

Some sport routes have spaced bolts so taking some trad gear can be a good idea. Indeed many of the best routes at the cliff are mixed - bolts only where there are no trad placements availble.

Some routes have a carrot at the start, so a couple of bolt plates are required.

©

Access issues inherited from Waitpinga

The access to the cliff is via one of two methods.

  1. via the Heysen Trail coming in from the Victor Harbour side or Newland Head Reserve. (adds about 1.5 - 2 hours to the walk in.) or

  2. Via private land. The CCSA (Climbing Club of South Australia) has arranged access via the landowners immediately above the cliff top. Any entry onto this land must first have the permission of either Alistair Carmichael or Bernie Carmichael.

Phone numbers are available from the CCSA Online Waitpinga guide at

http://climbingclubsouthaustralia.asn.au/climbing-areas-in-south-australia/waitpinga/

Descent Notes

Sport routes have lower-offs. The old routes end in steep dirt, loose rock and shrubs and are not recommended unless you are in to that.

©

Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
2
11 Squid Trad
4
17 * Stimulus Package Sport 20m

take a #1 cam

FA: Peter Daish & Des Hudson, 2009

6
9 Abalone Trad
7
10 Pincer Trad
8

as in the guide book

10
11
20 Hard to Starboard Trad 25m

Takes a line on the left side of the wave platform, starting with a carrot bolt then leading up past FH's to a mid section requiring trad. Take a breath and move up into the crux (bolt protected) which involves a span out right. Has been known to throw off 6'4" grade 29 climbers yet see 5'3" grade 22 climbers onsight it - so no excuses!

FA: Steve Kelly/Pete Daish, 2009

12
13 ** Taleah Grace Sport 25m

FA: Peter Daish & Jordy Moffat

13
21 ** Sea Lion Mixed 55m 2, 13

The scene of an epic first ascent story. Originally climbed entirely on trad then later retrobolted (by the first ascentionists). A classic that gets harder as you get closer to the belay. Well worth doing.

FA: Damien Hall & Peter Daish

14
12 * Sea Lion Pup Sport 30m

Climb 2/3 of Sea Lion pitch 1, then step L to Taleah Grace chains.

15
18 * Sea Lion P1 Sport 35m, 10

Sea Lion 1st pitch to 1st horizontal. If using a 60m rope lower to TG chains

16
18 ** Georgie Rose Mixed 30m, 5

Hard start traversing into the diagonal slashes then up these to a final cruxy section that traverses left to an anchor.

FA: Peter Daish & Jordy Moffat

17
23 ** Buoy Oh Buoy Sport 32m

Possibly harder than Smooth Sailing and a little bit exciting to reach the crux. Take small wires and cams to supplement. A big pitch that gets harder the higher you go, with a super delicate crux section in the final 8 metres. 2nd pitch has not been climbed since a huge flake came off it, and it is not in a climbable state at present.

FFA: Steve Kelly

FA: Tony Barker & Mike Broadbent

18

You can take a bit of trad gear with you to supplement the bolts. A total classic that puts value back into 21's! Try not to do this one on a big wave day however.

FA: Peter Daish

19

The extension to GMB to the Achilles chain hasn't had a lead ascent as yet.

20

Start on boulders at R end of pond. Up to carrot (difficult) then past 2 ring bolts. Continue up crack (natural protection) passing another ring bolt up high before the DBB.

FFA: Paul Francis & Mark Witham, 1990

21
23 True North Trad 27m

The all too obvious crackline rising up by 'the bath' left of Smooth Sailing/Lost Socks requiring a mixture of trad and bolts. Grade 15 to the first anchor then continue up the crackline as it thins out and leads into the junction of Smooth Sailing. Finish as for that route.

FA: Peter Daish & Alister Carmichael, 2007

22

Not really a variant - just the start of True North. An all trad affair to the first anchor and an excellent lead for the grade.

FA: Peter Daish & Jordy Moffat

23
15 AID:A2 Atlas Aid 59m
24
23 * Lost While Sailing Unknown 30m

An inferior route to Smooth Sailing linking Lost Socks start (contrived) into Smooth Sailing.

25
18 ** Lost Socks Mixed 31m, 4

Mixed protection, 4 bolts and natural gear.

FA: John Nankivell & Alister Carmichael

26
20 ** Atlantic Cruise Unknown 59m

FA: Mark Leonard & Sandy Hancock, 1989

28
16 * Clear and Smooth Sport 20m

Clear the Decks Pitch 1 until it bisects Smooth Sailing then as for this briefly until you can climb right to the anchor.

29
24 * Clear the Decks Trad 48m

The extension to Clear the Decks Pitch 1 (done in one big pitch to the 2nd anchor). Very exciting crux relying on classic Waits foot smears to negotiate the hard bit a little distance above the protection.

30
18 ** Dutchy's Route Trad 48m

FA: Jaimie Holland & Peter Daish

32
23 ** Smooth Sailing Sport 30m

Possibly the best line at Waits. Follows the white quartz diagonal seam in a rising leftward direction until the route meets the vertical crackline of True North. From here, straight up the crack to a final tricky section and a cut right and up to chain. Mega.

33
16 ** Smooth and Easy Sport 20m

Smooth Sailing until you can cut right to the Clear the Decks Pitch 1 anchor. Quality.

34
25 *** Smooth Criminal Sport 35m

Climb Smooth Sailing until after its crux (where it meets True North) then 1m later span out left via a series of dynamic iron cross moves and bad feet to join GMB. Climb the crack of this route for approx 1-2m then a final slab boulder problem diagonally leftwards leads to the chain of Achilles Gambit. Originally freed to GMB, later extended to the obvious finish. Very technical and engaging climbing.

FFA: Steve Kelly

FA: Peter Daish & Damien Hall

35
13 * Mercy Sport 18m

Awkward crackline following ring bolts.

36
17 * Mercy Medium Sport
37
20 Mercy Hard Sport
38
18 * Paua Crack Trad 33m

Follow the crack line that runs parallel and 5m R of Smooth Sailing. Start at Clearing Your Mind leftwards passing through its Barque’s garden, then keep following the obvious crack line that leads to the Lost Socks DBB. Good natural pro all the way. 70m rope required to lower off.

FFA: Frewin Ries, 2014

39
19 *** Clearing Your Mind Sport 27m

Waits headspace slabbing at its best and probably not a good one to warm up on if you haven't experienced Waits before or are looking for a quick clip up. Good training for the harder routes.

FA: Peter Daish

40
14 ** Claw Trad 32m
41
14 * Crow's Nest Trad
42
15 ** Albatross Trad
44
13 Hello Sailor Trad 28m
45
13 * Magic Mountain Sport 23m, 6

Essentially a retrobolt of Hello Sailor, the description of which appeared in Rock 43.

46
11 * Wet Patch Sport 23m, 6

The L arete of the chimney at the R end of the wall.

47
18 ** A Good Line Trad 110m

A traverse of cephalopod wall in either direction staying about 10m above the rock or water.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Cephalopod Wall.