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Cephalopod Wall 46 routes in Area

  • Avg. Height: 35m
  • Style: Trad,Sport and other styles
  • Approach time: 20
  • Favorites: 2
  • Ascents: 192
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Description:
Ramp Slab Wet in rain Morning sun Windy SE

Some sport routes have spaced bolts so taking some trad gear can be a good idea.

Access Issues: inherited from Waitpinga

The access to the cliff is via one of two methods.

  1. via the Heysen Trail coming in from the Victor Harbour side or Newland Head Reserve. (adds about 1.5 - 2 hours to the walk in.) or

  2. Via private land. The CCSA (Climbing Club of South Australia) has arranged access via the landowners immediately above the cliff top. Any entry onto this land must first have the permission of either Alistair Carmichael or Bernie Carmichael.

Phone numbers are available from the CCSA Online Waitpinga guide at

http://www.climbingclubsouthaustralia.asn.au/guides.html

Tags:
Low tide Rap off Steep hike Schist 20-30 min

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 *** Down to the Sea in Slips
18
Trad
2 Squid
11
Trad
3 Simpkin's Chimney
4
Trad
4 Stimulus Package

take a #1 cam

FA: Peter Daish, Des Hudson, 2009

17
Sport 20m
5 Mussels and Weeds
14
Trad
6 Abalone
9
Trad
7 Pincer
10
Trad
8 Pincer Variant Finish

as in the guide book

10
Trad 27m
9 South Sea Burble
9
Trad
10 All Day Sucker
15
Trad
11 * Hard to Starboard

FA: Steve Kelly/Pete Daish, 2009

20
Trad 25m
12 * Taleah Grace

FA: Peter Daish, Jordy Moffat,

13
Sport 25m
13 Sea Lion

FA: Damien Hall, Peter Daish,

20
Sport 55m
14 Sea Lion Pup

Climb 2/3 of Sea Lion pitch 1, then step L to Taleah Grace chains.

12
Sport 30m
15 Sea Lion P1

Sea Lion 1st pitch to 1st horizontal. If using a 60m rope lower to TG chains

18
Sport 35m , 10
16 ** Georgie Rose

FA: Peter Daish, Jordy Moffat,

18
Mixed 30m , 5
17 *** Achilles Gambit

You can take a bit of trad gear with you to supplement the bolts.

FA: Peter Daish,

21
Sport 30m
18 *** Buoy oh Buoy

FA: Tony Barker, Mike Broadbent,

23
Aid 60m
19 The Guru Memorial Buttress
18 A3
Aid 57m
20 ** The Guru Memorial Buttress Pitch 1

Start on boulders at R end of pond. Up to carrot (difficult) then past 2 ring bolts. Continue up crack (natural protection) passing another ring bolt up high before the DBB.

FFA: Paul Francis, Mark Witham, 1990

18
Mixed 27m , 4
21 True North

FA: Peter Daish, Alister Carmichael, 2007

23
Trad 27m
22 ** True North Easy Variant

FA: Peter Daish, Jordy Moffat,

15
Trad 17m
23 Atlas
15 A2
Aid 59m
24 ** Lost While Sailing
23
Unknown 30m
25 * Lost Socks

Mixed protection, 4 bolts and natural gear.

FA: John Nankivell, Alister Carmichael,

18
Mixed 31m , 4
26 ** Atlantic Cruise

FA: Mark Leonard, Sandy Hancock, 1989

20
Unknown 59m
27 * Clear the Decks Pitch One
17
Sport 20m
28 Clear and Smooth
16
Sport 20m
29 ** Clear the Decks
24
Trad 48m
30 ** Dutchy's Route

FA: Jaimie Holland, Peter Daish,

18
Trad 48m
31 * Its Barque is Worse Than Its Bight
17
Trad
32 ** Smooth Sailing
23
Sport 30m
33 Smooth and Easy
16
Sport 20m
34 Smooth Criminal

FA: Peter Daish, Damien Hall,

24 A0
Aid 35m
35 * Mercy
13
Sport 18m
36 Mercy Medium
17
Sport
37 Mercy Hard
20
Sport
38 *** Clearing Your Mind
19
Sport 27m
Hide
RouteGradeStylePopularity
39 ** Claw
14
Trad
40 Crow's Nest
14
Trad
41 Albatross
15
Trad
42 Rum, Sodomy, and the Lash
13
Trad 28m
43 Hello Sailor
13
Trad 28m
44 Magic Mountain

Essentially a retrobolt of Hello Sailor, the description of which appeared in Rock 43.

13
Sport 23m , 6
45 Wet Patch

The L arete of the chimney at the R end of the wall.

11
Sport 23m , 6
46 *** A Good Line

A traverse of cephalopod wall in either direction staying about 10m above the rock or water.

18
Trad 110m
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