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Table of contents

1. Cephalopod Wall 46 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.555527, -35.618689

Description:

Some sport routes have spaced bolts so taking some trad gear can be a good idea.

Access Issues: inherited from Waitpinga

The access to the cliff is via one of two methods.

  1. via the Heysen Trail coming in from the Victor Harbour side or Newland Head Reserve. (adds about 1.5 - 2 hours to the walk in.) or

  2. Via private land. The CCSA (Climbing Club of South Australia) has arranged access via the landowners immediately above the cliff top. Any entry onto this land must first have the permission of either Alistair Carmichael or Bernie Carmichael.

Access via the Carmichael's property is closed for lambing June-August 2014. Access via the heysen trail is still open.

Phone numbers are available from the CCSA Online Waitpinga guide at

http://climbingclubsouthaustralia.asn.au/climbing-areas-in-south-australia/waitpinga/

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Down to the Sea in Slips 18Trad
2 Squid 11Trad
3 Simpkin's Chimney 4Trad
4 Stimulus Package

take a #1 cam

FA: Peter Daish, Des Hudson, 2009

17Sport 20m
5 Mussels and Weeds 14Trad
6 Abalone 9Trad
7 Pincer 10Trad
8 Pincer Variant Finish

as in the guide book

10Trad 27m
9 South Sea Burble 9Trad
10 All Day Sucker 15Trad
11 * Hard to Starboard

FA: Steve Kelly/Pete Daish, 2009

20Trad 25m
12 * Taleah Grace

FA: Peter Daish, Jordy Moffat

13Sport 25m
13 Sea Lion

FA: Damien Hall, Peter Daish

20Mixed 55m, 13
14 Sea Lion Pup

Climb 2/3 of Sea Lion pitch 1, then step L to Taleah Grace chains.

12Sport 30m
15 Sea Lion P1

Sea Lion 1st pitch to 1st horizontal. If using a 60m rope lower to TG chains

18Sport 35m, 10
16 ** Georgie Rose

FA: Peter Daish, Jordy Moffat

18Mixed 30m, 5
17 *** Achilles Gambit

You can take a bit of trad gear with you to supplement the bolts.

FA: Peter Daish

21Sport 30m
18 *** Buoy oh Buoy

FA: Tony Barker, Mike Broadbent

23Aid 60m
19 The Guru Memorial Buttress 18 A3Aid 57m
20 ** The Guru Memorial Buttress Pitch 1

Start on boulders at R end of pond. Up to carrot (difficult) then past 2 ring bolts. Continue up crack (natural protection) passing another ring bolt up high before the DBB.

FFA: Paul Francis, Mark Witham, 1990

18Mixed 27m, 4
21 True North

FA: Peter Daish, Alister Carmichael, 2007

23Trad 27m
22 ** True North Easy Variant

FA: Peter Daish, Jordy Moffat

15Trad 17m
23 Atlas 15 A2Aid 59m
24 ** Lost While Sailing 23Unknown 30m
25 * Lost Socks

Mixed protection, 4 bolts and natural gear.

FA: John Nankivell, Alister Carmichael

18Mixed 31m, 4
26 ** Atlantic Cruise

FA: Mark Leonard, Sandy Hancock, 1989

20Unknown 59m
27 * Clear the Decks Pitch One 17Sport 20m
28 Clear and Smooth 16Sport 20m
29 ** Clear the Decks 24Trad 48m
30 ** Dutchy's Route

FA: Jaimie Holland, Peter Daish

18Trad 48m
31 * Its Barque is Worse Than Its Bight 17Trad
32 ** Smooth Sailing 23Sport 30m
33 * Smooth and Easy 16Sport 20m
34 Smooth Criminal

FA: Peter Daish, Damien Hall

24 A0Aid 35m
35 * Mercy 13Sport 18m
36 Mercy Medium 17Sport
37 Mercy Hard 20Sport
38 *** Clearing Your Mind 19Sport 27m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
39 ** Claw 14Trad
40 Crow's Nest 14Trad
41 Albatross 15Trad
42 Rum, Sodomy, and the Lash 13Trad 28m
43 Hello Sailor 13Trad 28m
44 Magic Mountain

Essentially a retrobolt of Hello Sailor, the description of which appeared in Rock 43.

13Sport 23m, 6
45 Wet Patch

The L arete of the chimney at the R end of the wall.

11Sport 23m, 6
46 *** A Good Line

A traverse of cephalopod wall in either direction staying about 10m above the rock or water.

18Trad 110m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
4 Simpkin's Chimney Trad
9 Abalone Trad
South Sea Burble Trad
10 Pincer Trad
Pincer Variant Finish Trad 27m
11 Squid Trad
Wet Patch Sport 23m, 6
12 Sea Lion Pup Sport 30m
13 Hello Sailor Trad 28m
Magic Mountain Sport 23m, 6
* Mercy Sport 18m
Rum, Sodomy, and the Lash Trad 28m
* Taleah Grace Sport 25m
14 ** Claw Trad
Crow's Nest Trad
Mussels and Weeds Trad
15 Albatross Trad
All Day Sucker Trad
** True North Easy Variant Trad 17m
15 A2 Atlas Aid 59m
16 Clear and Smooth Sport 20m
* Smooth and Easy Sport 20m
17 * Clear the Decks Pitch One Sport 20m
* Its Barque is Worse Than Its Bight Trad
Mercy Medium Sport
Stimulus Package Sport 20m
18 *** A Good Line Trad 110m
*** Down to the Sea in Slips Trad
** Dutchy's Route Trad 48m
** Georgie Rose Mixed 30m, 5
* Lost Socks Mixed 31m, 4
Sea Lion P1 Sport 35m, 10
** The Guru Memorial Buttress Pitch 1 Mixed 27m, 4
18 A3 The Guru Memorial Buttress Aid 57m
19 *** Clearing Your Mind Sport 27m
20 ** Atlantic Cruise Unknown 59m
* Hard to Starboard Trad 25m
Mercy Hard Sport
Sea Lion Mixed 55m, 13
21 *** Achilles Gambit Sport 30m
23 *** Buoy oh Buoy Aid 60m
** Lost While Sailing Unknown 30m
** Smooth Sailing Sport 30m
True North Trad 27m
24 ** Clear the Decks Trad 48m
24 A0 Smooth Criminal Aid 35m