A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Daniel Toone Martin Cummins Thananthorn Suriyasenee Ben Dickson Laurence Judd Brendan Heywood Simon Hilton Daniel Gensemer LJ Nielsen pamelalansbury
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
O'Sullivan Beach
42 in Area
- 1.1. Poop Deck Boulders 8 in Sector
- 1.2. Boat Ramp Boulder / Foremast Boulders 10 in Boulder
- 1.3. Baby Bella Boulder 0 in Boulder
- 1.4. Kafka's Boulders / Captains HQ 19 in Boulder
- 1.5. Fisherman Boulder 1 in Boulder
- 1.6. Crows Nest Boulders 4 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. O'Sullivan Beach 42 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
Lat / Long: -35.118800, 138.468799
summary
A great place to begin bouldering as there are many routes available & problems abound. Take a crash pad & helmet as rocks are jagged & high. Takes a good day to climb all boulders here both north & south.
description
Sandstone and quartzite boulders along the sea. Many medium o large boulders with plenty of problems to discover.
access issues
A lot of the boulders are tidal dependant. As high tide approaches boulders will begin to get surrounded by water.
approach
Park at O'Sullivans Beach boat ramp. Poop Deck Boulders are South of the boat ramp, all others to the North. Kiosk and toilets close by.
ethic
Family friendly area so try not to swear.
1.1. Poop Deck Boulders 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -35.121227, 138.467671
description
The area nearest to the fence line of the desalination plant. Note that the plant is off limits and access isn't allowed to the general public.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
Blistering Barnacles
Sit start in back of overhang on good left hand edge and right hand side pull. Head left and top out on left hand side of boulder. | V2 | 2m | |||||
2 |
★★ Barnacle Bill
Sit start in back of overhang on good left hand edge and right hand side pull and head directly up and out on good holds and mantle out. | V3 | 2m | |||||
3 |
Barnacle Traverse
Start on the right hand side of the boulder. Traverse the boulder left under the overhang, around the arete and top out on the left hand side. | V1 | ||||||
4 |
★ Stinky Barnacle Juice
Eliminate. Sit start matched on good undercling and head up on slopers and mantle out. The face to the right is out! | V1 | 2m | |||||
5 |
Barnacle Juice
Sit start matched on good undercling and mantle out. | V0 | 2m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
Skull & Dagger
Start on right hand side of boulder traverse left and mantle out on left hand side. | V0 | 2m | |||||
7 |
Siren
Sit start matched on good flat jug and head directly up on good holds and top out. | V0 | 3m | |||||
8 |
Snapper Arête
Climb the arête and top out. | V0 | 3m |
1.2. Boat Ramp Boulder 10 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
Lat / Long: -35.118543, 138.468626
description
Boulder nearest to the boat ramp.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ Follow the Seagull
Start on the unique pocket holds of Follow The Seam, then head straight up. FA: Ben Dickson, 1 Jan 2020 | V0 | 2m | |||||
2 |
★ Follow The Seam
Sit start on rock on left hand side of boulder matched on unique large pocket with the split in it. Traverse right following the seam and top out on far right hand side of boulder when seam ends. | V3 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★ Psycho Seagull
Start as for 'Captain Pugwash' on left hand side of juggy ledge and head slightly left and top out on low ledge. | V2 | 3m | |||||
4 |
★ Captain Pugwash
Sit start on left hand side of large jug rail and make a big move to two edges up high. Continue up and top. | V1 | 3m | |||||
5 |
★★ Seaman Staines
Sit start with hands matched in large jug and head directly up centre of boulder on thin futures and top out. | V3 | 3m | |||||
6 |
★ Fumes
Sit start on right and side of large juggy ledge and traverse left staying low. Top out when you get to the arête. | V4 | 3m | |||||
7 |
★ High on Fumes
A higher (and harder) variant to Fumes. Start as far right on the juggy rail as possible. Move up RH to good hold, then use the the LL crimp and a rounded hold to gain the seam of FTS. Descend the seam into the holds of Fumes and follow that line to the end. An eliminate, but not quite as contrived as it sounds - a nice, consistent climb with varied challenges. FA: Ben Dickson, 1 Jun 2020 | V4 | 3m | |||||
8 |
★★ Lolloping Landlubbers
Sit start on right hand side of large jug rail and head directly up using thin features. | V4 | 3m | |||||
9 |
★ Captain Crimpseye
Eliminate. Start as for Lolloping Landlubbers, going left hand to the crimp, but then go right hand all the way to the top. FA: Ben Dickson, 1 Jun 2020 | V5 | 3m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
10 |
Corner Traverse
Start on right hand side of juggy crack. Use only jug line for hands and feet traversing left around corner. Once around corner stay at same height to next corner moving left. Climb no longer climbable due to carious large boulders in the way. Maybe the sea will do us a favour and move them again in the future?! Set: Daniel Toone, 6 Nov 2016 FA: Daniel Toone, 6 Nov 2016 | V3 | 4m |
1.3. Baby Bella Boulder 0 routes in Boulder
approach
Roughly 40 metres right of the boat ramp next to the trail.
1.4. Kafka's Boulders 19 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -35.117965, 138.468934
description
Group of sandstone boulders 40m North of the Break wall. Tide dependant, lots more development potential Captains HQ is the West facing wall, developed by DT.
Western facing wall, 40m north of the boatramp break wall. Exposed on low tide.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ There Must Be A Better Sequence
Eliminate. Sequence: Start on knees or campusing, left flat sloper, right hand good sidepull, head directly up, and mantle. Only use the top Boulder not the bottom one. FA: Toi Suriyasenee | V0+ | 3m | |||||
2 |
All The While (Super Low Variant)
Start very low, on left hand barnacle sloper side pull, right hand decent sloper. Trend right through low slopers, sidepulls, and crimps through to the right hand side pull starting hold of, In Denial. Finish up In Denial. FA: Toi Suriyasenee | V4 | 3m | |||||
3 |
Sub City
Crouch Start, Left/Right on slopers, trend right and up. FA: Toi Suriyasenee | V1 | 3m | |||||
4 |
In Denial
. Sit-start left hand undercling, and Right Hand Good sidepull, head up through crimps and sloper and top out mantle | V3 | 2m | |||||
5 |
Crow
edit: follow the line. | V1 | 3m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★ Against The Grain
Sit start matched undercling on breadloaf feature. Bust straight up on right leaning edges, mantle out. FA: Martin Cummins, 17 Apr 2016 | V1 | 3m | |||||
7 |
★★ Get Out The Water
Start on far left ledge. Head to the right and up going over the hole in the rock and climb to top of top of boulder. Eliminate large flat ledge once over hole. | V2 | 4m | |||||
8 |
Shallow Water Solo
Starts over pool of water. Starts on good left and and right hand side pull and head up on good holds and top out. Try not to fall! Caution: As of July 2020, the large block used on the top out is dangerously loose | V1 | 3m | |||||
9 |
Black Beard
Right hand in finger pocket. Left hand on left pocket. Use left sloper and high sloping jug. Commiting move up to jug then scramble to top. Set: Daniel Toone, 2016 FA: Daniel Toone, 2016 | V2 | 2m | |||||
10 |
★★ Davy Jones
Start as Jack Sparrow. Head up left of (Jack Sparrow Left) through slopers. Scramble to top. Set: Daniel Toone, 18 Nov 2016 FA: Daniel Toone, 18 Nov 2016 | V3 | 3m | |||||
11 |
Jack Sparrow
Hang start on jug with feet in foot cave at chest height. Traverse left horizontally keeping feet high with heel hooks. Make way up the parallel cracks. Set: Daniel Toone, 2016 FA: Daniel Toone, 6 Nov 2016 | V2 | 3m | |||||
12 |
Jack Sparrow LHV
Jack Sparrow route but only use Left hand crack. Set: Daniel Toone, 2016 FA: Daniel Toone, 2016 | V2 | 3m | |||||
13 |
Jack Sparrow RHV
Jack Sparrow route but only use right hand crack Set: Daniel Toone, 2016 FA: Daniel Toone, 2016 | V4 | 3m | |||||
14 |
★ James Norrington
Start on main (Jack Sparrow) jug. Head directly up and left of (James Hook) using sloper only. Grab jug after and scramble to top. Set: Daniel Toone, 18 Nov 2016 FA: Daniel Toone, 18 Nov 2016 | V3 | 3m | |||||
15 |
James Hook
Hang start on jug. Move directly upwards on arête. Scramble to top. Set: Daniel Toone, 2016 FA: Daniel Toone, 2016 | V3 | 4m | |||||
16 |
Hector Barbossa
Start from (Jack Sparrow) jug. Head right of (James Hook) using only crack. Scramble to top. Set: Daniel Toone, 18 Nov 2016 FA: Daniel Toone, 18 Nov 2016 | V2 | 3m | |||||
17 |
★ Captain's Traverse
Start traverse as for (Jack Sparrow). Once you get to good central jug before heading up cracks, keep traversing left around corner past (Davy Jones and Black Beard). Holds on flat top out ledge are off limits. Set: Daniel Toone, 24 Nov 2016 FA: Daniel Toone, 24 Nov 2016 | V3 | 4m | |||||
18 |
To the Crows Nest
Head up cavity only using feet and back smearing. Hands are off limits Set: Daniel Toone, 24 Nov 2016 FA: Daniel Toone, 24 Nov 2016 | VB | 2m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
19 |
Blistering Barnacles
Sit start under roof using side pools. Work your way over roof and up to top. Set: Daniel Toone, 2 Dec 2016 FA: Daniel Toone, 2 Dec 2016 | V3 | 2m |
1.5. Fisherman Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -35.119824, 138.468305
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
Fisherman's Traverse
Crouch start on right hand side of Boulder on good leaning edge and traverse left. Top put on left hand side of boulder. | VB | 1m |
1.6. Crows Nest Boulders 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -35.117137, 138.470605
description
Three boulders located on the North side of O'Sullivans on the walk down to the beach. Rock quality not as solid as waterside boulders.
approach
Park at the boat ramp and follow the path until it climbs the hill. Follow up the hill. Boulders are located on right hand side towards the top. Alternatively park at the top of the hill
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ O'Sullivan
Start on right hand side of boulder matched on good edge. Traverse left and top out on left hand side. | V4 | 3m | |||||
2 |
O'Sullivan Direct
Sit start central weakness in back of boulder and mantle out. | V4 | 2m | |||||
3 |
★ Ovni
Sit start with right hand in good slot and left hand in large side pull. Traverse left and mantle out at the top. Bad landing! | V5 | 3m | |||||
4 |
El Manto
Sit start boulder and head directly up and mantle out. | V4 | 2m |