Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Adelaide 1,368 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.643501, -35.032993

Description:©

Adelaide residents have plenty to choose from for local climbing.

Adelaide's two most popular crags, Morialta and Onkaparinga, are equipped with bollards above the popular routes, and Adelaide's beginners usually learn to establish topropes long before they learn to lead.

Areas are ordered north to south

1.1. Anstey Hill Quarry 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

1.2. Cable Crag 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.741470, -34.863318

1.3. Montacute 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.723689, -34.895965

1.3.1. Left Tit 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.3.2. Right Tit and Armpit 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.4. Over There Crag 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.710369, -34.898595

1.4.1. Clearview Buttress 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.4.2. Desperation Crag 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.4.3. Honeycomb Crag 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

1.5. Morialta 492 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 138.708194, -34.904279

Description:

Home to the start of many outdoor rock climbing careers, Morialta provides a decent number of routes with grades to suit all levels. Morialta is the most visited rock climbing area in Adelaide. Easy access, a number of quality routes, lovely scenery and the ability to be able to toprope almost everything gets people coming back time and time again.

Approach:

To reach the crag head to Norton Summit Road and follow the winding path up the hill for about 5.5kms until car parking space appears on the right hand side. From the car park head down through the two gates and along the fire track. Boulder Bridge and the Billiard Table can be accessed by taking the first trail on the left. To reach Far Crag follow the fire track down and around the bend to the left were you will see a sign indicating rock climbing zone straight ahead. For access to Thorn Buttress head to Far Crag and scramble down the eastern end of the cliff for an access trail down to the main path. From the main track walk 25m downhill until you can cross the stream, follow this path until you reach the base of the cliff.

Ethic:©

Morialta is primarily a trad climbing and toproping area. Chipping, excessive chalk, litter and new bolts are all frowned upon and/or illegal.

Some routes have good natural gear, some have none (if the first ascensionist soloed it that is a good giveaway.) Most routes can be toproped and there are ring bollards in the more popular areas - use these where available and do not tie off to trees.

Any bolt repairs should be done in conjunction with the Climbing Club of South Australia.

History:

The gully has been climbed on for decades so there are very few unclimbed lines left.

1.5.1. The Lost Walls 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.714459, -34.908407

1.5.2. Thorn Buttress 47 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.715499, -34.908570

Description:©

A pleasant place to spent a summer morning as the cliff faces SW and provides shade until midday, and shade most of the day in winter.

Routes are described left to right facing the cliff.

Approach:©

From the Eastern end of 'Far Crag', descend the steep eroded track to the walking track along the creek. Head downstream for 50m and then cross the creek. The track goes up a gully and crosses some scree before arriving at the cliff.

1.5.3. Far Crag 71 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 138.715134, -34.909982

Description:©

Far crag is so named as it is the furthest up the gorge (climbers progressively exploring their way up the gorge started at the bottom.)

Approach:©

From Norton Summit Road Gate 17, follow the 4wd track for 5 minutes and up a rise. Where the 4wd track swings west continue straight over the meadow and 100m down a track and some steps to the top of the cliff.

1.5.4. The Throne Room 27 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.714041, -34.909869

1.5.5. The Boulder Bridge 60 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 138.712460, -34.909881

1.5.6. The Billiard Table 50 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 138.711263, -34.909823

1.5.7. The Nether Regions 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 138.711721, -34.909552

Description:

Small face with lower grade sport climbing, great for an aspiring leader just be safe and bring your helmet!

Access Issues:

Head down to The Billiard Table from the top of Marialta, when you get down to the base of cliff rather than heading along the cliff line continue down a track towards the creek. About halfway down turn right to find a new track that will take you to the base of the cliff.

Approach:

Head down to The Billiard Table from the top of Marialta, when you get down to the base of cliff rather than heading along the cliff line continue down a track towards the creek. About halfway down turn right to find a new track that will take you to the base of the cliff.

1.5.8. Shiprock 25 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

1.5.9. The Buttress 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 138.709390, -34.909033

Unique Features And Strengths:

Tilted to RHS, so steep or overhanging> balance or power

Approach:

Parking spots down the hill from the boulder bridge / far crag parking. Room for one/two cars. Climb over the guard rail at the faded yellow colored post. Hike down the steepening path (caution: May be hard to access in the wet or after rain). Until reaching the top of the buttress with anchor setups possible for both left and right walls. Descend to the right (looking out over the buttress)

History:©

The AUMC were exploring Morialta starting at the bottom, so this area was explored in the early 1960s before the areas further upstream. The Buttress (13) features what is probably the oldest bolt in the Adelaide hills.

1.5.10. Mirror Wall 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

Access the top of the cliff via the delicate gully on the climber's left.

There is a single old rusty carrot bolt above Future Crack.

Approach:

From the bottom of The Buttress, wander downstream through light scrub for 100m

1.5.11. Deja Vu Buttress 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

1.5.12. Wedge Wall 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

1.5.13. Rare Earth Buttress 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

1.5.14. Western Wall 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

1.5.15. The Outcrops 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.706222, -34.907199

1.5.16. Milestone Buttress 31 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

1.5.17. First Falls Area 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.707845, -34.906340

1.5.18. Giant's Cave 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 138.705774, -34.903581

History:

The Giant's Cave is now closed to all types of climbing. Penalties apply.

1.6. Norton Summit 173 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.712686, -34.922305

Description:© (boardlord)

A detailed guide to this area is available on the following link:

http://www.climbingclubsouthaustralia.asn.au/guides.html

1.6.1. The Far Left Wing 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.712900, -34.922422

1.6.2. The Cave 65 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: 138.712911, -34.922323

Description:© (boardlord)

Routes are described left to right.

1.6.3. The Hole 36 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 138.712030, -34.922164

Description:© (boardlord)

Routes are described left to right facing the wall. For a more detailed guide, refer to the Climbing Club of South Australia website.

1.6.4. The Right Wing 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.712523, -34.922470

1.6.5. The Bachelor Pad 57 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.705346, -34.923248

Description:

Intro

The densest area of boulder routes in the Adelaide region.

NOTE: The same regulations apply here as to the main area of Norton Summit (i.e. no climbing after sunset or on fire-ban days). Try to keep noise pollution to a minimum, stick to the walking trails and take your rubbish with you.

Approach:

General Location

The Pad is located on The Old Norton Summit Road, about 1km down hill from The Summit. (The climbing area not the actual summit!) To get there drive east out of the city and head up Magill Road. Continue straight onto The Old Norton Summit Road for 1.5km, there is a small pullout for parking left hand side opposite a large stand of bamboo.

There isn’t much parking here so be courteous of others, there are a few extra parking spaces further up the hill. The track up to The Pad is located on the otherside of the road (south) just next to the bamboo (downhill) Cross the guardrail and you will see the track heading across the creek and up the hill. It take about 10 minutes of up hill slog to reach the cliff.

The location marked on the map has the point of the triangle at the beginning of the trail on the Old Norton Summit Road. The base of the triangle is at the cave itself.

Ethic:

Noise levels

This is a public area so please be considerate of others by keeping noise, music and swearing to a minimum. Think about taking a rubbish bag with you to help keep the place clean.

Imports/exports (rubbish/mats/tape)

Normal rules apply, take everything with you, this includes finger tape and cigarette butts. Take only foam mats to leave at the pad, no coil mattresses. Help keep rubbish to a minimum by removing any badly damaged mats before they create an unsightly mess.

Track maintenance

Track maintenance is the responsibility of any climber that chooses to frequent the Pad. The track becomes virtually impossible to use in periods of rain (see below) and in its current state will only get worse (hard to imagine). Voluntary work by CCSA members and other climbers that visit this site is welcomed.

History:

On first acquaintance with this place you could be forgiven for thinking that the 40+ problems listed in this guide must be an error, for the place known as The Bachelor Pad doesn’t exactly look like a bouldering ‘mecca’. Shorter than the length of Sissy Crag (NSW), not as high as Lindfield, The Fear Factory or Akuna Bay (NSW), and less inspiring than Trackside or Anderson’s (Vic) – it is nevertheless home to the hardest problems in South Australia.

Not only that, but it is also less than 20 minutes drive from the city, 3 minutes drive from a pub, and stays dry in the rain. What more could you want? Difficulty ranges from V0-V13, with just under half of the problems sub-V6, and all the rest being mainly in the V6-V10 bracket. Topping the scale are the problems of Austria’s Klem Loskot (Madball sit start – V13) and ex-local boy Sharik Walker (Tao and Butchers – both V12).

1.7. Slapes Gully 31 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.686793, -34.948992

Description:

Moving around at the top of the cliff is very difficult and requires care. It is steep and loose. The main part of the cliff contains some nice rock and a few worthwhile climbs.

Approach:

Heinous slide down extremely steep slope featuring old rubbish including a lot of rusty metal and some broken glass. Most vegetation is too unstable to be relied upon. The top of the gully used to reach the crag is marked with a small piece of pink flagging tape, close to a rusty gate.

1.8. Cleland 50 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Top Rope and Sport

Long/Lat: 138.694380, -34.968233

1.8.1. Woolshed Gully 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.690159, -34.963408

1.8.2. Elephant Rock 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.682059, -34.968596

Approach:

Follow the main Mount Lofty trail for approx 300m then take your first immediate back-tracking left (now decommissioned so quite difficult to see/find/use) along that eventually will become the ETSA access spur track.

History:

Discovered in '65 but ascents only put up post '78 (Badenoch, Adams)

1.8.3. Chambers Gully 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.687246, -34.953550

Description:

Small path side crag in Cleland Conservation Park. Routes are top ropeable with natural anchors yet ascent and decent can be difficult.

Approach:

Enter the Kilto Fire Track then take three immediate rights until you see the cliff on your left.

Descent Notes:

Free solo the easier routes to the sides of the crag, or scramble around the back, as with most Adelaide metro crags look out for blackberries!

1.8.4. The Urban Goat Crag 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.683294, -34.971706

1.8.5. Tode Hall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

1.8.6. Bandicoot Buttress 17 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 138.702212, -34.963301

Description:©

Rarely visited, this crag offers exceptional morning shade and some short, intermediate routes. The rock is sandstone.

Most of the routes include some vegetation.

Approach:©

Park at the junction of Mt Lofty Summit Drive and Sprigg Rd. Walk down the Yerang Track keeping right at any junctions. Walk along the track for 1km from the car to the most westerly point on the track. At this point, leave the track and follow the broad spur due west.

Follow the spur down for 300m following a very faint pad, keeping to the top of the spur until the incline steepens and you are overlooking power lines.

Turn 90 deg L to the top of the crag, or to access the base continue ahead down a short scree before turning hard L.

Apparently you can also approach from below.

Descent Notes:©

Descent can be made at the northern end of the cliff.

History:©

Discovered by David Paull who was conducting bandicoot surveys in the area in 1989. He didn't write up the routes until Grant Tode claimed some first ascents here in 1992.

First documented in Nick Neagle's 1997 guide

1.9. Glen Osmond Quarries 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.652027, -34.973723

1.9.1. The Oasis 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.9.2. The Main Quarry 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

1.10. Belair 91 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.641322, -35.002925

1.10.1. Car Crash Quarry 48 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: 138.624363, -34.988841

Unique Features And Strengths:

Easy access, short sport routes, nice sunny aspect

Description:

A good crag for those wishing to access the easier sport climbing on offer in Adelaide with fairly well placed bolts - just don't expect much below grade 20, this IS South Australia

Approach:© (boardlord)

Located in disused quarry. Travelling up Old 'Belair' rd park in gravel layby (both sides of the road). Follow steep track at S end of car park to overgrown dirt road, continue SW 50m to the crag.

1.10.2. Brownhill Creek 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 138.627521, -34.990694

1.10.3. Tom's Quarry 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.618990, -34.991985

1.10.4. Tusmore Towers 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 138.606371, -34.999288

1.10.5. Workanda Creek 27 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: 138.667377, -35.008288

Description:© (boardlord)

Routes are described right to left. Located within Belair National Park thus follow the usual eco-friendly regulations of the national parks.

Now known as the highball capital of Adelaide but still used for both trad and top rope.

Approach:© (boardlord)

Enter via Gate 11.

1.10.6. Amphitheatre Rock 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.670165, -35.021739

1.11. Blackwood 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

1.11.1. Paul's Roof 28 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.11.2. Magpie Gully 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.11.3. Smoke Cave 0 routes in Crag

1.11.4. Limmo's Roof 0 routes in Crag

1.12. Aldgate Super Crag 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 138.749779, -35.033821

1.13. Coro Crag 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.632114, -35.047096

Access Issues:

Private Land - Landowner does not permit access.

Approach:

Off Sittella Ct, Coromandel Valley.

1.14. Bald Wall (O'Halloran Hill) 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Unique Features And Strengths:

Featured delicate climbing on loose sheets of slate.

Description:

Bald Wall was an old slate quarry in a gully west of the parking area/lookout half way up Main South Road at O'Halloran Hill. It was probably buried during construction of the Southern Expressway.

Access Issues:

The quarry has probably been buried.

History:

Discovered by Paul Francis and Mark Witham.

1.15. Black's Rocks 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.497195, -35.070967

1.15.1. Glacier Cove 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.15.2. Glacier Slabs 0 routes in Crag

1.15.3. Travesty Slab 0 routes in Crag

1.16. Mount Barker 43 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: 138.921464, -35.064530

Unique Features And Strengths:

Easy access, good rock, nice view, tiny climbs.

Description:

The main area comprises short outcrops on a ridgetop. People have been scrambling over them for decades without bothering with any write-up. Recently, a Facebook page (search for 'Mount Barker Summit') has been created to give route names and descriptions although it's accepted that these are somewhat arbitrary. The climbs are listed L to R below.

Access Issues:

The main area on the ridgetop is council land.

Approach:

Drive up the signposted summit road on the east of the Mount. There's a 3 minute walk to the summit from the carpark. The main area faces west and is just down to the R of the summit marker (looking out).

1.17. Onkaparinga 270 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 138.566442, -35.162307

1.17.1. Top Cliff 123 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 138.593947, -35.144844

1.17.2. Snakelands 24 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.594682, -35.143721

1.17.3. Waterloo Wall 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 138.592755, -35.144968

1.17.4. Turkey Wall 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.590459, -35.145464

1.17.5. Hidden Wall 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.590156, -35.145340

1.17.6. Top Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

1.17.7. Spider Slabs 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 138.590414, -35.146570

1.17.8. The Red Cliff 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 138.589914, -35.146546

1.17.9. Western Crag 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 138.587523, -35.146329

1.17.10. Arapiles Crag 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.586819, -35.145038

1.17.11. Doom Wall 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Deep Water

Long/Lat: 138.586410, -35.146227

1.17.12. The Punchbowl 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.568309, -35.158079

1.17.13. Echo Bend 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 138.602449, -35.133631

1.17.14. The Wall 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.603983, -35.131584

1.18. Vertical Reality 43 routes in Gym

Summary:
Sport, Top Rope and Boulder

Long/Lat: 138.658343, -34.856049

Description:

This is a basic gym listing. It is locked and cannot be edited.

If you climb at Vertical Reality you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

If you are from Vertical Reality and would like to unlock this page to make a more tailored and detailed listing please contact us (http://www.thecrag.com/article/ContactUs)

Approach:

560 NE Rd, Holden Hill SA 5088

1.18.1. Climbing routes 26 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 138.658353, -34.856367

1.18.2. Bouldering problems 17 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

1.19. Adelaide's Bouldering Club 39 routes in Gym

Summary:
Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 138.566940, -34.913573

Description:

This is a basic gym listing. It is locked and cannot be edited.

If you climb at Adelaide's Bouldering Club you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

If you are from Adelaide's Bouldering Club and would like to unlock this page to make a more tailored and detailed listing please contact us (http://www.thecrag.com/article/ContactUs)

Approach:

10 Ware St, Thebarton SA 5031

1.19.1. Climbing routes 23 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.19.2. Bouldering problems 16 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder