Routes in The Bluff

The boulder viewed from the car park.

Start: The crack on the car par side. A few cams see you topping out.

The southern face of the boulder viewed from the car park.

Start: A thin diagonal finger crack on the south face.

Start at the high end of the path underneath the huge boulder which Mal de Mer climbs. Start bridging inwards and upwards until you find a hole on the ocean side of the boulder to exit out of. Best described as a once off epic due to there being no protection.

The large split boulder on the right of the descent route to Mal De Mer. Climb the off width crack that runs up the centre. Some flakes are brittle, and there is no pro so it's best to use an anchored spotter as a fall could be serious.

The left curving undercling flake, to the body sized slot between the boulder and the cliff. Finish straight up.

Thin cracks up the left front of the arete. Onto a hollow scoop slab that steepens. Slide up and right before reaching left and over the top. 3 hangerless bolts available for the anchor belay.

As for Baudin to the hollow scoop slab. Take the steep left line past 3 ring bolts. 3 hangerless bolts available for the anchor belay.

A long standing problem. Start at the base of the blunt arete facing the Pleasure Dome, 5 metres right of the start of 'Trois D' Artagnon'. Climb easily to the first FH, then continue to second FH. Try your hardest to reach the third FH, then continue to the roof. Traverse left across underclings and finish up short crack (wire or cam), then onto slab (BR).

Start directly below the final offwidth of Celeste, on the ramp as for High and Dry. Climb the steep crack system to the slab. Finish up the offwidth crack of Celeste. Hangerless bolt belay above on the Baudin arete.

A short memorable '14'. Adding to the excitement is how long will the window last!

Start: Start from inside the Tafoni (umbrella looking rock). Thread a sling through the window, clip and go! Step out then make your way over the top.

A direct start to Walking on the Moon.

Rap down the Mer Sea slab (current guidebook definition). Twin cracks L of Mer Sea to a ledge then the slab past a bolt.

Toprope or solo the pleasant little slab about 15m R of Comme Ci Comme Ca. Known on here as Sunny Slab for a time.

Rap down behind the top of the Buster Hymen block to find a slab system that looks about grade 14. Referred to as Mer Sea in the Nick Neagle guidebook.

Well, it had some beer cans in it at least. Up the squeeze chimney between the two rocks and out the back. FA was solo, it's quite hard to fall out, but would possibly take some very large cams (BD 5 or 6?). May be a bit harder and more interesting if the loose chock-stones were cleaned out of the chimney

The curving flake on the western smaller boulder makes for a nice traverse. Start at the R end and wander across.

Both leader and second belay on the ground.

Up the middle of the smaller boulder, crossing 'Bill and Erik's Big Adventure'

Located on the impossible looking front of the boulder. Stand start on big obvious undercling on the left hand side. Make a big move to what is probably the best hold on the climb (and that's saying a lot!) then up on tiny crimps and nubbins.

Start up the flake on the eastern corner of the larger boulder. Step left and up the wall, finishing at the tiny corner.

Start as for Lychee O'Grady, but bear right instead. Dance up the wall.

Up the front of the big boulder that looks like a ship's prow when looking east from Tai Chi Lychee Boulder

Start: The sustained hand crack to the ramp.

Straight up above the hole in the big overlap past a bolt. This finish is shared with Fin de Siecle.

Start: Scramble up the gully to where the crack breaks out right over an overhang and onto a slab above. Follow this to where it peters out over a little overlap, then step left and past an undercling en route to a big hole at the main overlap. Then traverse out right to finish on the short final wall.

Start straight up the crack. Well protected.

Resist the temptation to move L from the crack towards the undercling. Stay in the crack, clip a bolt and join the original route at the R end of the big overlap. Hard.

Like many scare routes, easy to toprope, easy to fall off, but bloody terrifying to lead. A single bolt protects the hardest moves within the first 4 metres, then you are on your own. A cam in a hollow flake follows backed up by some wires, then a 6 metre runout to a twin skyhook placement on a large crimper line. From there, it's about a 12 metre runout to the top diagonally leftwards at first, then straight up. Carrigan toproped the line prior to the first ascent (ie. It was 'headpointed') - and left his rack weighing down a single skyhook on the last placement. The final part on a toprope may feel about grade 18, however it will feel very different on lead! British E5 5c - which means 'dangerous!'

Amble up a metre R of Nesta del Crow.