Topo #8840

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Route Grade Popularity Style
4 Stimulus Package

take a #1 cam

17 Sport 20m Unlink route
5 Mussels and Weeds
14 Trad Unlink route
6 Abalone
9 Trad Unlink route

Topo #8837

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Route Grade Popularity Style
7 Pincer
10 Trad Unlink route
8 Pincer Variant Finish

as in the guide book

10 Trad 27m Unlink route
9 South Sea Burble
9 Trad Unlink route

Topo #8836

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Route Grade Popularity Style
11 * Hard to Starboard

Takes a line on the left side of the wave platform, starting with a carrot bolt then leading up past FH's to a mid section requiring trad. Take a breath and move up into the crux (bolt protected) which involves a span out right. Has been known to throw off 6'4" grade 29 climbers yet see 5'3" grade 22 climbers onsight it - so no excuses!

20 Trad 25m Unlink route

Topo #8835

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Route Grade Popularity Style
12 * Taleah Grace
13 Sport 25m Unlink route
13 ** Sea Lion

The scene of an epic first ascent story. Originally climbed entirely on trad then later retrobolted (by the first ascentionists). A classic that gets harder as you get closer to the belay. Well worth doing.

21 Mixed 55m 2, 13 Unlink route
14 Sea Lion Pup

Climb 2/3 of Sea Lion pitch 1, then step L to Taleah Grace chains.

12 Sport 30m Unlink route
15 Sea Lion P1

Sea Lion 1st pitch to 1st horizontal. If using a 60m rope lower to TG chains

18 Sport 35m, 10 Unlink route
16 ** Georgie Rose

Hard start traversing into the diagonal slashes then up these to a final cruxy section that traverses left to an anchor.

18 Mixed 30m, 5 Unlink route

Topo #8838

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Route Grade Popularity Style
13 ** Sea Lion

The scene of an epic first ascent story. Originally climbed entirely on trad then later retrobolted (by the first ascentionists). A classic that gets harder as you get closer to the belay. Well worth doing.

21 Mixed 55m 2, 13 Unlink route
14 Sea Lion Pup

Climb 2/3 of Sea Lion pitch 1, then step L to Taleah Grace chains.

12 Sport 30m Unlink route
15 Sea Lion P1

Sea Lion 1st pitch to 1st horizontal. If using a 60m rope lower to TG chains

18 Sport 35m, 10 Unlink route
16 ** Georgie Rose

Hard start traversing into the diagonal slashes then up these to a final cruxy section that traverses left to an anchor.

18 Mixed 30m, 5 Unlink route
17 *** Buoy Oh Buoy

Possibly harder than Smooth Sailing and a little bit exciting to reach the crux. Take small wires and cams to supplement. A big pitch that gets harder the higher you go, with a super delicate crux section in the final 8 metres. 2nd pitch has not been climbed since a huge flake came off it, and it is not in a climbable state at present.

23 Sport 32m Unlink route
18 *** Achilles Gambit Pitch 1

You can take a bit of trad gear with you to supplement the bolts. A total classic that puts value back into 21's! Try not to do this one on a big wave day however.

21 Sport 30m Unlink route
19 The Guru Memorial Buttress Extension

The extension to GMB to the Achilles chain hasn't had a lead ascent as yet.

22 Trad 32m 2 Unlink route
20 ** The Guru Memorial Buttress Pitch 1

Start on boulders at R end of pond. Up to carrot (difficult) then past 2 ring bolts. Continue up crack (natural protection) passing another ring bolt up high before the DBB.

18 Mixed 27m, 4 Unlink route
21 True North

The all too obvious crackline rising up by 'the bath' left of Smooth Sailing/Lost Socks requiring a mixture of trad and bolts. Grade 15 to the first anchor then continue up the crackline as it thins out and leads into the junction of Smooth Sailing. Finish as for that route.

23 Trad 27m Unlink route
22 ** True North Easy Variant

Not really a variant - just the start of True North. An all trad affair to the first anchor and an excellent lead for the grade.

15 Trad 17m Unlink route
23 Atlas
15 A2 Aid 59m Unlink route

Topo #8834

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Route Grade Popularity Style
17 *** Buoy Oh Buoy

Possibly harder than Smooth Sailing and a little bit exciting to reach the crux. Take small wires and cams to supplement. A big pitch that gets harder the higher you go, with a super delicate crux section in the final 8 metres. 2nd pitch has not been climbed since a huge flake came off it, and it is not in a climbable state at present.

23 Sport 32m Unlink route
18 *** Achilles Gambit Pitch 1

You can take a bit of trad gear with you to supplement the bolts. A total classic that puts value back into 21's! Try not to do this one on a big wave day however.

21 Sport 30m Unlink route
19 The Guru Memorial Buttress Extension

The extension to GMB to the Achilles chain hasn't had a lead ascent as yet.

22 Trad 32m 2 Unlink route
20 ** The Guru Memorial Buttress Pitch 1

Start on boulders at R end of pond. Up to carrot (difficult) then past 2 ring bolts. Continue up crack (natural protection) passing another ring bolt up high before the DBB.

18 Mixed 27m, 4 Unlink route
21 True North

The all too obvious crackline rising up by 'the bath' left of Smooth Sailing/Lost Socks requiring a mixture of trad and bolts. Grade 15 to the first anchor then continue up the crackline as it thins out and leads into the junction of Smooth Sailing. Finish as for that route.

23 Trad 27m Unlink route
22 ** True North Easy Variant

Not really a variant - just the start of True North. An all trad affair to the first anchor and an excellent lead for the grade.

15 Trad 17m Unlink route
23 Atlas
15 A2 Aid 59m Unlink route
24 ** Lost While Sailing

An inferior route to Smooth Sailing linking Lost Socks start (contrived) into Smooth Sailing.

23 Unknown 30m Unlink route
25 * Lost Socks

Mixed protection, 4 bolts and natural gear.

18 Mixed 31m, 4 Unlink route
26 ** Atlantic Cruise
20 Unknown 59m Unlink route
27 * Clear the Decks Pitch One
17 Sport 20m Unlink route
28 Clear and Smooth

Clear the Decks Pitch 1 until it bisects Smooth Sailing then as for this briefly until you can climb right to the anchor.

16 Sport 20m Unlink route
29 ** Clear the Decks

The extension to Clear the Decks Pitch 1 (done in one big pitch to the 2nd anchor). Very exciting crux relying on classic Waits foot smears to negotiate the hard bit a little distance above the protection.

24 Trad 48m Unlink route
30 ** Dutchy's Route
18 Trad 48m Unlink route
31 * Its Barque is Worse Than Its Bight
17 Trad Unlink route
32 ** Smooth Sailing

Possibly the best line at Waits. Follows the white quartz diagonal seam in a rising leftward direction until the route meets the vertical crackline of True North. From here, straight up the crack to a final tricky section and a cut right and up to chain. Mega.

23 Sport 30m Unlink route
33 * Smooth and Easy

Smooth Sailing until you can cut right to the Clear the Decks Pitch 1 anchor. Quality.

16 Sport 20m Unlink route
34 *** Smooth Criminal

Climb Smooth Sailing until after its crux (where it meets True North) then 1m later span out left via a series of dynamic iron cross moves and bad feet to join GMB. Climb the crack of this route for approx 1-2m then a final slab boulder problem diagonally leftwards leads to the chain of Achilles Gambit. Originally freed to GMB, later extended to the obvious finish. Very technical and engaging climbing.

25 Sport 35m Unlink route

Topo #8833

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Route Grade Popularity Style
25 * Lost Socks

Mixed protection, 4 bolts and natural gear.

18 Mixed 31m, 4 Unlink route
26 ** Atlantic Cruise
20 Unknown 59m Unlink route
27 * Clear the Decks Pitch One
17 Sport 20m Unlink route
28 Clear and Smooth

Clear the Decks Pitch 1 until it bisects Smooth Sailing then as for this briefly until you can climb right to the anchor.

16 Sport 20m Unlink route
29 ** Clear the Decks

The extension to Clear the Decks Pitch 1 (done in one big pitch to the 2nd anchor). Very exciting crux relying on classic Waits foot smears to negotiate the hard bit a little distance above the protection.

24 Trad 48m Unlink route
30 ** Dutchy's Route
18 Trad 48m Unlink route
31 * Its Barque is Worse Than Its Bight
17 Trad Unlink route
32 ** Smooth Sailing

Possibly the best line at Waits. Follows the white quartz diagonal seam in a rising leftward direction until the route meets the vertical crackline of True North. From here, straight up the crack to a final tricky section and a cut right and up to chain. Mega.

23 Sport 30m Unlink route
33 * Smooth and Easy

Smooth Sailing until you can cut right to the Clear the Decks Pitch 1 anchor. Quality.

16 Sport 20m Unlink route
34 *** Smooth Criminal

Climb Smooth Sailing until after its crux (where it meets True North) then 1m later span out left via a series of dynamic iron cross moves and bad feet to join GMB. Climb the crack of this route for approx 1-2m then a final slab boulder problem diagonally leftwards leads to the chain of Achilles Gambit. Originally freed to GMB, later extended to the obvious finish. Very technical and engaging climbing.

25 Sport 35m Unlink route
35 * Mercy

Awkward crackline following ring bolts.

13 Sport 18m Unlink route
36 * Mercy Medium
17 Sport Unlink route
37 Mercy Hard
20 Sport Unlink route
38 * Paua Crack

Follow the crack line that runs parallel and 5m R of Smooth Sailing. Start at Clearing Your Mind leftwards passing through its Barque’s garden, then keep following the obvious crack line that leads to the Lost Socks DBB. Good natural pro all the way. 70m rope required to lower off.

18 Trad 33m Unlink route
39 *** Clearing Your Mind

Waits headspace slabbing at its best and probably not a good one to warm up on if you haven't experienced Waits before or are looking for a quick clip up. Good training for the harder routes.

19 Sport 27m Unlink route
40 ** Claw
14 Trad 32m Unlink route

Topo #8832

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Route Grade Popularity Style
39 *** Clearing Your Mind

Waits headspace slabbing at its best and probably not a good one to warm up on if you haven't experienced Waits before or are looking for a quick clip up. Good training for the harder routes.

19 Sport 27m Unlink route
40 ** Claw
14 Trad 32m Unlink route
41 Crow's Nest
14 Trad Unlink route
42 Albatross
15 Trad Unlink route
43 Rum, Sodomy, and the Lash
13 Trad 28m Unlink route
44 Hello Sailor
13 Trad 28m Unlink route
45 Magic Mountain

Essentially a retrobolt of Hello Sailor, the description of which appeared in Rock 43.

13 Sport 23m, 6 Unlink route
46 Wet Patch

The L arete of the chimney at the R end of the wall.

11 Sport 23m, 6 Unlink route

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