Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Flinders Ranges 1,042 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.769981, -31.727421

1.1. Point Bonney 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.625210, -31.586270

1.2. Moonarie 621 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.620664, -31.612943

Unique Features And Strengths:

Awesome trad climbing in an amazing desert setting.

Description:

Moonarie is one of Australia's most spectacular crags, situated as it is on the rim of Wilpena Pound, surrounded by sweeping deserts views. It is easily South Australia's premier crag, with superb rock and loads of fantastic quality routes. Isolated as it is, it is very much an adventure destination, and a worthy stop on the Australian rock climbing tour.

Moonarie offers a varied trad climbing experience, with a good range of intermediate to hard routes. There is very little in the way of sport routes, but the trad climbing is fantastic, the quality of the rock makes it ideal for placing gear. The rock has a similar feel to Arapiles, with the same mixture of natural gear and the occasional bolt. Although there are some easy routes, Moonarie is not a beginners crag. Moonarie is really an intermediate to advanced climbers cliff. The climbing starts in the low teens and stretches up into the high 20's. The climbing varies from single pitch excursions to long multipitch routes, that wind their way up to the rim of the pound.

One of the most striking features of Moonarie is the famed Great Wall, a spectacular stretch of rich red vertical rock 50 metres high, that offers some of the best climbing on the crag. The Great Wall is the home of possibly the best 19 in the land, Down Wind of Angels. Down Wind of Angels is only the beginning of the good routes on this wall, there is also Outside Chance 16, the amazing looking Dryland 22, and a host of other starred routes in the low to mid 20's. The Great Wall is only one area of Moonarie, there are other parts of the crag which are just as spectacular, the Ramparts, Flying Buttress and The Great Chimneys area. Like Arapiles, Moonarie is a crag which is rich in classics.

Perhaps more than any other area Moonarie is a crag which is best visited in exactly the right season, otherwise you end up either very hot or very cold. The two recommended times of the year to visit are between March and May, and September to October. Wilpena Pound is a land of extremes. Visited at the right time of the year though, Moonarie is a rich and incredible climbing experience, well worth the long drive to get there.

As at 2014 there is NO mobile phone reception at the campground or the cliff. You can get 1-2 bars of reception on the Telstra network ABOVE the crag, but only above Gargoyle Wall (100-200m southeast of the top of the main descent gully). There is full coverage on Telstra at Wilpena, 15 minutes drive away.

Access Issues:

National Park

Approach:

450 km north of Adelaide. From Hawker drive north on Wilpena Road for about 45km towards Flinders Range national park. Turn left onto Arkaroo Rock Road (signposted). About 700m turn left onto a rough track. 500m or so down this you'll arrive at the campground.

There is also a bus that travels between Adelaide and Wilpena Pound.

From the campground walk across the creek then step over a fence on stepping stones. A 45 minute walk uphill gets you to top camp, in between Checkers Wall and Flying Buttress. Most people stash gear at top camp each night, which reduces the walk to 25 minutes.

Where To Stay:

There is a campsite at the base of the track up to Moonarie, which is on private land, so it is very important to leave this area in a respectable state. There is no toilet so BRING A SHOVEL AND BURY YOUR POO. It is also possible to stay at Top Camp, right beneath the crag, although it is a bit of a walk to drag all your gear up there. If you desire more facilities, it is possible to camp at Wilpena Pound, or find accommodation in the closest town, Hawker.

1.2.1. The Promised Land 15 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Aid

1.2.2. Southern Crags 21 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.619044, -31.616273

1.2.3. Checkers Wall 88 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.618074, -31.615482

1.2.4. Gargoyle Wall 20 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 138.617540, -31.613746

1.2.5. Southern Descent Gully - Right Side 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.617556, -31.613427

1.2.6. Flying Buttress 28 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.618207, -31.613422

Description:

First butress right of top camp. Can't miss it.

1.2.7. Jaffle Wall 14 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.618412, -31.613043

1.2.8. The Ramparts 81 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.619657, -31.612126

1.2.9. Callitris Corner 40 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 138.620497, -31.611101

1.2.10. Great Wall Area 68 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 138.620090, -31.610119

1.2.11. Northern Group 44 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.620518, -31.608814

1.2.12. Crag X 13 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.13. Lower Tiers 182 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.3. Rawnsley Bluff 124 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Aid

Long/Lat: 138.610431, -31.622180

1.3.1. Moonlight Buttress 46 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.615408, -31.621578

History:

Most of the climb descriptions for moonlight buttress were originally penned by Col Reece, and taken from the Moonlight Buttress guide by Col Reece.

1.3.2. The Dark Side 26 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.614886, -31.622707

Unique Features And Strengths:

The Dark Side faces south-east, so is great for a hot summer's day, but can get very cold in winter. There is a variety of single-pitch climbing on reasonably compact orange quartzite.

Description:

This is the long wall immediately around from the end of Moonlight Buttress (and on the same cliffline - the highest on the bluff), and faces mostly south-east.

Access Issues:

There are no known access issues, but the area is relatively untouched, so treat it with respect. Try and avoid damaging vegetation, and set up an abseil after the first climb, to avoid trampling vegetation on top of the cliff.

Approach:

As for Moonlight Buttress.

Where To Stay:

Most people camp in the Moonarie campground.

Ethic:

All climbs are traditional. As yet there are no lower-offs.

History:

This area may have been climbed by Col Reece earlier, however no record of his ascents on this cliff have come to light to date. The first recorded ascents were on 18/05/2013 (as far as the author is aware). The route descriptions were taken (with the authors' permission) from the Dark Side Guide, by Garth Wimbush, Tim Smith, Adam Clay and Jack Mattinson.

1.3.3. Moralana Wall 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.4. Tull Corner 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.5. Koperi Wall 26 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.3.6. Lone Pine Wall 16 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.4. Mount Eyre 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 138.189600, -31.803322

Unique Features And Strengths:

In the middle of nowhere.

Description:

The buttresses along the top of Mt Eyre are scrappy so this little outcrop nearby was investigated. The rock was solid Flinders quartzite and the short cracks proved irresistible. We chose the safer option of climbing rather than bouldering. The blocs are probably worth checking out if a boulderer is in the area, but we're not putting Mt Eyre forward as an exciting new alternative to The Knobs or Moonarie!

Access Issues:

All this country is divided into stations, but there are no homesteads, no maintained fences and little stock in the area.

Approach:

Take Yappala Rd west of Hawker and continue towards Neuroodla. The outcrop can be seen from the road and is at the base of the ridge stretching north-east from the prow of Mt Eyre (6km further on). About 25 km from Hawker, 20 minutes walk from car.

1.5. Buckaringa 165 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.045165, -32.110492

Access Issues:

1.5.1. ABC Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.5.2. South Wall 9 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.5.3. Sheoak Wall 27 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.5.4. Central Gully 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.5.5. Midnight Wall 17 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Trad

1.5.6. Piton Wall 43 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Trad

1.5.7. The Black Walls 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.5.8. Ida Buttress 9 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.5.9. The Terrace 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.5.10. The Top Tier 16 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.5.11. The Second Cliff 16 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.5.12. Unknown 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.5.13. The Blackboard 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.5.14. The Chalkboard 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6. Argadells 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.028018, -32.141700

1.7. Warren Gorge 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.010405, -32.185977

Description:

The route locations need checking. A best guess is that Lucky Charm is on the buttress north of the road. Rabbit Killpatrick to Free Fred are on an east-facing wall R of LC. Emu Arse Lip Balm is on the west-facing wall of this buttress. Hoboken and Manhattan are on the east-facing wall south of the road and Succession to Introduced Vermin are on the west facing wall (aka Lepus Wall) of this buttress.

1.8. Mt Benjamin 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.027482, -32.191902

1.9. Devil's Peak 72 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 137.991247, -32.414980

1.9.1. Eastern Wall 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.9.2. Requiem Ledge 4 routes in Area

Summary:

1.9.3. East Higher Face 3 routes in Area

Summary:

1.9.4. Hueco Wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:

1.9.5. Contrasts Wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:

1.9.6. Tree Fern Gallery 3 routes in Area

Summary:

1.9.7. Beelzebub Boulder 3 routes in Area

Summary:

1.9.8. Calgon Canopy 5 routes in Area

Summary:

1.9.9. Waste Lands 2 routes in Area

Summary:

1.9.10. Western Walls 7 routes in Area

Summary:

1.9.11. Wall of Evils 3 routes in Area

Summary:

1.9.12. Leaning Wall 6 routes in Area

Summary:

1.9.13. The Point 12 routes in Area

Summary:

1.9.14. The Devil's Playground 7 routes in Area

Summary:

1.9.15. El Dorado Faces 6 routes in Area

Summary:

1.9.16. Crappy Crag 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.9.17. The Three Boulders 4 routes in Area

Summary:

1.10. Gibraltar Rock 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 138.159729, -32.843324